Fritillaria In Turkey

The most spectacular landing in Turkey: flying over Lake Van

2011-07-05T14:32:00.000-07:00

Landing in Istanbul is spectacular – getting a bird’s eye view of the city is fascinating enough but it cannot be compared to landing in Van. Van wasn’t really one of the most exciting cities, -however, times are changing - but arriving here by plane is one of the most remarkable travel experiences in Turkey. So despite our ever-lasting love for the dolmuş, we strongly recommend taking a flight. Of course, Van has much more to offer than amazing views from the airplane, but that will follow later, so bear with us. Now, we’re just concentrating on the most scenic route and landing.

Okay, so you are used to flying over mountains. You’ve seen Colorado canyon from above, so you think there is nothing better on offer. Just try this route once, and make sure, on the way there, you sit in the left isle. You will get gorgeous mountains dotted with the blue of rivers and lakes, the white of the remaining snow caps, the golden glitter of the reflecting sunrays on Lake Van.


Arriving over Keban Lake on Euphrates

The area was flooded when the Keban Dam was built


The crater and its lakes of the extinct volcano, Mt Nemrut

Finally, Lake Van. In the background, you can see Mt Süphan towering over the lake.

Ferry going to Akdamar Island

In manouvre. There still is quite a bit of snow covering Mt Süphan in June.

Close to landing. You think, that you really will be landing on dry land...

...but then again you are flying over water...getting very close to it.

The final stretch. Almost touching ground.

Practicalities

The airport is just being extended, so don’t worry when you get the first glimpse of the shabby airport building itself.

Airlines: Van Ferit Melen Airport is being served by 3 airlines: Turkish Airlines (together with its daughter company, Anadolu Jet), Sky Airlines and Sun Express. It is connected to Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara, Antalya. If you book early, your flight ticket may be cheaper than the bus would be.

Getting to the city: At the moment, there are no regular minibuses connecting the airport to the city, but you can have a look around and can get lucky. The taxi to the city costs about 20 TL. The cheapest option is to walk out to the main road, and catch a city dolmuş there, taking you to the city centre for about 1.20 TL. However, this isn’t really an option if you have several/heavy luggage.

What's on: July. Music and exhibitions

2011-06-30T22:10:00.000-07:00

The avalanche of summer programmes is unstoppable.

SantralIstanbul has extended the "20 Turkish artists of the 20^th century" exhibition until the end of July. It is also offering reduced entrance fees this month: normal tickets cost 5 TL, whereas entrance for elderly people over 65 is free.

For sculptures, go to Arte Istanbul, where Engin Inan’s bronze sculptures and reliefs are exhibited until 29 July.

Trabzon-born Atilla Alp Bölükbaşı’s amazing nature photographs “Water nymphs” are on display at Beyoğlu Belediyesi Sanat Galeri until 23 July.

Once in Beyoğlu, do not miss the exhibition space of Arter with two temporary exhibitions (until 21 August). Deniz Gül’s “5 Person Buffet” and Patricia Piccinini’s sculptures will take you on a journey to a different land.

If you visit the Princes’ Islands, do not miss the exhibition about the architecture of the islands. Located in the Çınar street building, it will be opened on 2 July and will run until 2012. Entrance is free.

The 2nd International İstanbul Opera Festival offers various performances at great locations between 1-21 July. Apart from some well known operas you will have the chance to see Sultan Murat IV as well. All performances will be at great locations, such as the Topkapi Palace, Rumeli Castle, Hagia Irene Church.

The 18^th International Istanbul Jazz Festival will fill the streets and various unique venues with music. A wide selection of local and international artists will perform their best between 1-19 July. A special mini-festival will be organised within the festival. The second Tünel Feast will offer late night entertainment on 2 July.

Preparing for One Love

The One Love Festival is back on the premises of Bilgi University on 2-3 July. Apart from the international line-up, including Manic Street Preachers and Happy Mondays, a good selection of Turkish bands will perform as well.

You will get a chance to recover from partying hard until Rock’n Coke begins on 16 July. Again, prominent international bands, such as Limp Bizkit, Travis, Skunk Anansie, and Turkish bands, like Athena will entertain the crowds.

Van is celebrating nature and culture between 21-25 July with lots of music and dance.

Ever wanted to trek in the Kackar mountains but you are still hesitating? In the second week of July, the Rize Mountaineering and Tourism festival is on in Rize. If you are in the Kackars already, do not miss the Kuspa and Palovit yayla (pasture) festivals in the 4^th week of July. The same week, Kemer village is hosting a festival in the same area. July 10 will be festival day in Çayeli, with local and international musicians performing.

What's on: June. From one festival to the other...

2011-06-03T13:50:00.000-07:00

Summer is here with an incredibly rich list of events taking place in the whole of the country. Many of these are (partly) aimed at tourists, but most of the festivals mainly entertain locals.

Istanbul offers new temporary exhibitions in the major museums and works of many contemporary artists are displayed in smaller galleries.

A unique collection of artefacts dating back to the 3rd Millenium BC is exhibited at the Sabancı University Sakıp Sabancı Museum (until 28 August). Paralleling finds from Anatolia and the Cyclades Islands contributes to the developing Greek-Turkish dialogue.

Works of Greek painters are showcased at the Topkapi Palace Museum until 30 June.

Contemporary miniatures reflecting on Istanbul by Taner Alakuş and his students are on display at the art gallery of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski (Istanbul, city of sultans; until 30 June, Çırağan Cadd. 32, Beşiktaş).

Travel through cultures via photographs. Visit the Arkeo Pera exhibition hall to see pictures of women, children, mountains, birds of various cultures from Mesopotamia to Mezo-America (from 7 June to 7 September).

Pera Museum is celebrating Fathers Day on 19 June with free entrance for fathers. The İhsan Cemal Karaburçak and the Fundamentally Human exhibitions are still on.

Of course, the music festival season continues with an overwhelmingly wide selection. The 39^th Istanbul Music festival (4-29 June) offers concerts by international and Turkish artists at unique venues, such as the Hagia Eirene church. Looking for jazz? You will be pampered by the Akbank Sanat Jazz festival, the Jazz Days between 15-29 June starring Turkish and international musicians.

Something of a curiosity is the Cherry festival in Polonezköy (between 4-12 June). This Polish village in Istanbul has been organising Cherry festivals for more than hundred years as a thank you to their hosts. So if you feel like experiencing a real mix of culture (Polish meals, drinks and dance in Turkish environment), head for the village that these days mostly serves as a holiday village.

When wandering ancient Greek and Roman amphitheatres, have you wished you could turn time back and see a performance there? Well, this is your chance now. The prestigious Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival is being organised in the more than 2000-years-old historical theatre for the 18^th time this year.

Tekirdağ will host its traditional Cherry festival between 16-19 June with dance shows, concerts and games.

The small bordertown of Doğubayazıt is celebrating traditional culture with dance and music between 21-23 June. A unique chance to see traditional performances and to experience what really rocks in that corner of the world.

If you happen to be near the Kaçkar mountains, watch out for local festivals. These are usually organised on the high pastures (yaylalar), and you can experience local flavours in music, dance and food. The 17^th Ayder festival is held on 18-19 June. The Ikizdere Caucasian Black Grouse festival is held on the 3^rd week of June.

What's on: May. Free visits to museums!

2011-05-04T15:26:00.001-07:00

Museums for free! You can visit Pera Museum for free from 7pm until midnight on 14 May. You can see the two new exhibitions, paintings by Ihsan Cemal Karaburçak and the fascinating project of Fundamentally Human: Neuroscience and Contemporary Art. Of course, there is no celebration without music, so there will be a live concert and DJs. Both exhibitions can be visited until 3 July. Celebrating Museums Week, Santralistanbul can also be visited free of charge between 18-24 May.

Coffee, anyone? Tired of paper cups and the same café chains anywhere you go? By the 16^th century, Turks were already addicted to the fragrant coffee beans and took this passion with them to Europe. Objects of sophisticated coffee ceremonies are on display in Dolmabahçe palace’s re-opened Art Gallery until 14 June ('A Cup of Coffee in the Palace in Memory of Old Times', closed on Mondays and Thursdays).

Unique underwater photos are exhibited in the Basilica Cistern – where else? The pictures were taken of the submerged buildings of Halfeti. The small town at the Euphrates and neighbouring villages were flooded in 1999, after the dam at Birecik was constructed. (until 30 May)

While official Turkish-Armenian relations are still unsettled, individuals are trying to come to terms with history. Erhan Arık’s photographic journey in villages on both sides of the Turkish-Armenian borders is part of this process reflecting on the different aspects of pain experienced by the current inhabitants of these villages. Himself having grown up in a house that used to belong to an Armenian family, we can join him on a personal journey developing into a project with a wider perspective. The photos and the documentary can be visited until 5 June (‘Horovel’ at Tütün Deposu in Tophane). Antoine Agoudjian’s photo exhibition in the same gallery explores Armenian communities in different countries („Burning eyes: Memories of the Armenians” ).

If you preferred contemporary art, there are quite a few exhibitions to see in Istanbul in May.

The Elgiz Museum of Contemporary Art, the first private museum of contemporary art in Turkey is celebrating its 10^th anniversary with a series of temporary exhibitions. Between 3-14 May, photographs of Dennis Gun, the Berlin-based Turkish artist will be displayed. Exploring possibilities of digital media, Gun reflects on literature, Baroque and Renaissance paintings, religion or just contemplates everyday objects. The other ongoing exhibition, “Unbounded” showcases a collection of young Turkish artists exploring cultural and visual boundaries. The Museum is open from Wednesday to Saturday.

If you happen to be in Antalya and have kids with you, the 5^th Antalya Sand Sculpture Festival promises good fun. Located at Lara Beach, you will see more than 100 sand sculptures (about 10 000 tonnes of sand!!!) made by 25 artists from 11 countries depicting scenes of Hollywood films. So you can meet Batman, E.T., see scenes from the Matrix or Stars Wars, just to name a few. There are special night time shows with light and sound effects. The exhibition is open during all summer, closing only on 14 November.

Rafting in Istanbul? Rafring FROM Istanbul!

2011-04-13T04:11:00.000-07:00

A calm stretch of the Büyükmelen river

So there we were in the middle of red tape with a free weekend in Istanbul. Out of the blue, friends suggested we joined them on a one-day rafting tour. Small shrieks of joy were followed by tiny shrieks of horror as we had to meet Taner at 5.30 am many miles away from our place. But it’s not every day that you can go rafting from Istanbul.

The meeting point for the group was on the Asian side of Istanbul, comfortably located at a pastry shop. So we could pass the time waiting for the others with drinking endless glasses of tea and having su börek, a kind of pasta dish with fresh cheese for breakfast. We boarded the bus at around 8 am and were heading North-East, to a small village beyond the Abant mountains. We turned off from the Istanbul-Ankara highway at the Zonguldak Düzceexit towards Cumayeri and then on to Dokuzdeğirmen at Büyükmelen River. That’s where the rafting centre is based and tours start from here.

The centre is buzzing with guides running up and down, handing out neoprene suits, helping people to adjust their life vests, helmets, or just showing the way to the changing rooms. The bridge over the river is an island of calm with locals watching over the busy life of the rafting centre.

Weekend fun

The guides create the groups, considering fitness, strength and previous experience. We sign the forms and finally head to the riverbank carrying the boats. Now it’s only the technical briefing left and then we hit the water.

We learn....

River Büyükmelen isn’t the most difficult river, not as wild as the Coruh in springtime, but it can provide enough excitement to raise your adrenaline levels. There are currents strong enough to topple your boat so you should rather watch out and listen to what your captain is shouting in the back of the boat. Our timing happened to be just perfect: in April, water level was still optimal, but weather wasn’t freezing cold anymore.

Cheerful on quiet waters

It's starting...

Made it!

Quite quickly, we learn who is strong and who is skilled in the boat, so we become a good team. At one point, we steer to the river bank and drag the boats halfway out of the water. Are we really at the end yet? We just agree that it was too quick for finishing all the 12 kilometres, when it turns out that it’s simply a tea break. Hey, we are in Turkey, so tea is a serious business and one just cannot miss out on regular top-ups, not even during rafting. Which of course serves also as an opportunity for the other total addiction, smoking. But who has dry cigarettes and matches left? We get back into the boats and after having avoided quite a few scary-looking rocks...

Slides

Go!

Disappearing

Here, again. Straight on!

...we really get to Büyükmelen village, where an old and rusty, but functioning bus is waiting for us. A busload of people in wetsuits high on adrenalin in an oldtimer bus. Isn’t that a sight?

Right and left our hosts and friends, Onur és Taner

What's on: culture in April

2011-04-09T05:15:00.000-07:00

With the festival season full in swing, you can enjoy even more films in Istanbul. The 30th International Istanbul Film Festival will be held between April 2 and 17. The more then 230 films to be screened represent a wide range from new feature films to classics, Turkish cinema, and documentaries. Are you an owl-type of person? A special treat, the Midnight Screenings is especially for you.

Beyoğlu again doesn’t fail modern art. The Galerist Tepebaşı art gallery hosts Ayça Telgeren first solo exhibition. “Free Diving” includes giant colourful paper collages depicting a dreamlike, alternative universe.

Istanbul Modern is hosting new and exciting temporary exhibitions. “Paradise lost”, inspired by Milton’s epic poem contemplates present and future, co-existence of nature and technical civilisation. The exhibition, running until 25 July, will display works of both international and Turkish artists. Once in Istanbul Modern, do not miss Yao Lu’s photo exhibition (until 22 May). Garbage and rubble concealed as Chinese landscapes reflecting poetic beauty – there is a lot to discover and think about.

Ahmet Şık’s photos, “I Am a Witness” will be displayed at Karşı Sanat until 12 April. Şık’s imprisonment in March raised voices both abroad and within Turkey. The opening of the exhibition will be marked by a protest for the imprisoned journalist and photographer. His supporters sent photos of themselves – a selection will be displayed throughout Istanbul galleries during April and May: Evrensel Art Gallery in Beyoglu (16-22 April), Kazım Koyuncu Culture Centre in Kadıköy (23-29 April), Nazım Hikmet Culture Cenre in Kadıköy (3-8 May).

A new cultural institute, SALT is being opened in Beyoğlu, supported by Garanti Bank. Situated in 2 historical buildings, one in Istiklal Caddesi the other in Galata, the buildings themselves are worth visiting. (The latter is to be opened for the public in September.) The opening will be celebrated by 2 exhibitions on 9 April. One is a collection of works by the late Hüseyin Bahri Alptekin, a respected Turkish contemporary artist, writer and philosopher (until 7 August). “I am not a studio artist” explores globalisation, cross-cultural issues, immigration and exile. “Laboratory Ars Viva 2010/2011” features works of young artists from Germany (until 1 June). The cultural centre will also host workshops, such as the “Ice cream” workshop by Kitty Travers, based on fresh ingredients found in Istanbul, and reflecting on the plants and seeds planted in Salt Beyoğlu’s garden.

A really special music event is awaiting music lovers on 15 April. Iranian-born Kayhan Kalhor and Turkish Erdal Erzincan will perform songs from their joint album “The Wind” and also some songs from the forthcoming album. Kalhor is a master of kemence, while Erzincan is a follower of the traditional bağlama-tapping schools. The perfect setting for their improvisation-based concert will be provided by Hagia Irene church in Topkapi palace.

Ankara is hosting 2 festivals in April. The Ankara International Music Festival is looking back on a long tradition. It will host 19 events during 4-30 April, ranging from symphonic to popular music, featuring 500 musicians from 14 different countries. The Art Festival organised by the Middle East Technical University is running until 24 April. Apart from music, there will be film screenings and a Visual Arts Exhibition.

And, of course, do not forget about Children's Day on 23 April, which will be celebrated by music, dance and theatre performaces by children all over Turkey. Enjoy the colourful gatherings.

A song for Hasankeyf by Aynur Doğan

2011-03-24T16:38:00.000-07:00

"Fatih Akin has committed himself against the planned construction of the Ilisu Dam, and the expulsion of the resident population in South-East Turkey as early as 2007. When his long-time friend, the Kurdish singer and composer Aynur, asked him to shoot a music video, the answer came easily: "Sure, and we do it in Hasankeyf," The suiting song was quickly found a haunting, poetic ballad about uprooting, hope, courage, and doom. Also an array of generous sponsors readily backed up the project, and in early fall of 2009, the two teamed up with an energetic crew, and flew to the cavernous mountains of the Tigris valley close to the the Syrian and Iraqi border. The outcome is a declaration of love for the wonderful music of Aynur, as well as the unique beauty of the 10,000 years old cultural site and hometown Hasankeyf, which is threatened by inundation."

Further information at: www.stopilisu.com and www.dogadernegi.org.

Newroz

2011-03-19T16:53:00.001-07:00

video - Kardeş Türküler Newroz

What's on - March

2011-03-07T01:06:00.000-08:00

on, Festival time!

A real manifestation of Istanbul’s multicultural history, the Bakla Horani Festival will be celebrated again for the second time on 7 March after a 69-year hiatus. The once 120000 strong community is down to 3000 these days but they are reviving old traditions. The originally 3-day festival of the Greek Orthodox community used to be held just before the 40-day fast preceding Easter. An important feature are the masks and of course all the music, food and drinks. The carnival procession will start from Şişli Belediyesi Emekliler Evi at 8pm and finish at Kurtuluş Spor Külübü Hall, where the festivities will continue into the night. Don’t miss this unique event and send us your report!

Shopaholics will flock to Istanbul for the Istanbul Shopping Fest (18 March-26April). This festival will not only offer excellent shopping opportunities for foreigners with discounts and long shopping nights (tax free shopping up to 30%), but will host a range of cultural events and entertainment. Festival streets include some of the tourist areas, such as Sultanahmet square, Istiklal caddesi, extending to the streets more frequented by trendy locals, such as the Abdi Ipekçi caddesi, Bağdat caddesi. One of the more interesting festival events will be held on Taksim square (19 March) with The Fire of Anatolia, Mercan Dede, Semazenler and DJs entertaining the crowds.

Jazz lovers will be pampered by the programme offered at the Nublu Jazz Festival (04-12 March). The concert venues are the Babylon, the Nublu, and the Lucca. Most of the performers are Turkish, but there are guest performances as well.

The French Culture Institute in Istanbul will celebrate International Women’s Day with opening two exhibitionsportraying women and the work of Marie Ozanne.

Santralistanbul's Main Gallery hosts an exhibition displaying the works of 20 major Turkish artists from the 20th century. The museum buildings by themselves are interesting enough. Once a power plant, some of the engine room has been conserved and is now exhibited. The building of the Main Gallery has been awarded the "International Architecture Awards 2010".

For ongoing exhibitions see January and February.

What's on - February

2011-02-11T00:48:00.000-08:00

!F, the Istanbul International Independent Film Festival is being organised for the 10th time between 17-27 February. A wide range of cutting edge international and Turkish films are on the programme, most of which were produced in 2010. In order to take contemporary films to the countryside, organisers joined forces with an online cinema website and civil organisations. Screenings will be held in 23 cities in Turkey, many of which lack a cinema altogether, and also in Ramallah, Tbilisi, Gymri. Workshops (in Turkish, English and French) on film making and current trends are also organised, some with the contribution of the Sundance Film Institute and Labs. The !F Rainbow party will be held at Babylon and Nublu on 25 February.

An exceptional photography exhibition opened on 8 Jan (running until 24 April, 2011) in the Sadberk Hanım Museum in Sarıyer. The “Dynasty and the Camera: Portraits from the Ottoman Court” exhibition showcases a selection from the rich collection of Ömer Koç. Pictures give an intimate view of the life of the royal family. The permanent collection of archeological finds and Turkish-Islamic art is also well worth spending time in. (Watch out, this museum is closed on Wednesdays!)

Do you long to go to the countryside but don’t have the time going there? A small photo exhibition brings the magnificent Kaçkars and the Eastern Black Sea coast to Istanbul, and you only have to go to Beyoğlu for it (until 28 February).

“Megapolises”, the work of the Moroccan-born installation artist Mounir Fatmi can be seen at the Akbank Sanat in Beyoğlu (until 19 March). “Considering Cricumstances: The second show” is at the Borusan Art Centre, also in Beyoğlu (until 12 March). Zafer Erkan’s paintings "At the back of my mind" can be seen at Ormo Art Gallery until 26 February.

For the ongoing exhibitions (Grand Bazar, Frida Kahlo, Kutluğ Ataman, Aga Khan collection) see the January post.

One of the big hits of the music scene will be Macy Gray singing on the Babylon stage on Valentine’s day (and also on 15 February). The same venue will host Baba Zula, a creative Turkish band on 10 February. Should you want more traditional tunes, listen to the Husnu Senlendirici Ensemble (17 February). A fascinating gig will be returning to Babylon on 19 February: Naim Dilmener is playing Turkish classics along with Sarp Dakni’s foreign nostalgic pop hits. Tülay Özer will accompany the two with live songs.

International starts of Cirque du Soleil also come to Istanbul and perform “Saltimbanco” at Abdi Ipekci Arena (between 19 February and 4 March).

Children singing at Beyaz su

2011-01-19T22:04:00.000-08:00

Entertaining visitors and generating family income ...

Sunday relaxation - let your hair down Turkish-style

2011-01-09T02:30:00.000-08:00

People in Turkey love picnics. They take every opportunity to go outside with family and friends, taking the samovar, all kinds of food, and maybe a small portable barbecue. They have a meal, drink endless glasses of tea, chat, might even take an instrument, and play music, but it’s very likely that they would burst into songs at one point.

Beyaz su (Ava Spî) is a very popular picnic spot in the Midyat area. It’s located at Sivrice (Dalîn) village between Midyat and Nusaybin, but people even from Mardin and Diyarbakir flock here for a relaxing day spent with chatting and music, eating freshly barbecued fish.

The picnic area itself is at the stream called Beyaz Su (Ava Spî). Its water is channelled so that it’s zigzagging through the whole picnic area. Benches with cushions are placed over the water, so you can listen to the soothing murmur of the water or cool yourself in the heat. Children are playing in the shallow parts and men may go for a swim in the ice-cold waters of the fast running stream itself.

You will surely see men or children playing the kemençe, a three-stringed violin reciting local songs. They might be playing just for themselves but it’s more likely that they go from bench to bench entertaining people and making an income. There is also a legend related to music: a shepherd at Batman dropped is pipe into the water and it reappeared in Beyaz Su.

When you go there, go to one of the restaurants serving freshly caught fish. The fish is cleaned, some spices are rubbed on it and then it’s put on the grill. What is a better way to cap off a nice and relaxing day than with a perfect meal?

And a last note. At the entrance of the picnic area, of course you fill find many stalls selling the usual scarves, sweets, carpets and …. stuffed animals. One of the most surprising sights we have encountered, which we haven’t really seen anywhere else. A strange fascination, but obviously these are selling well.

What to see in Istanbul in January

2011-01-03T04:42:00.000-08:00

Istanbul may have said farewell to being the European Capital of Culture and passed the title over to Turku and Tallin but it remains the vibrant city it has always been. Istanbul has been named as the most dynamically developing city and elected as the most popular future travel destination (see here). Once you’re done with the usual must-sees, there still is a lot more on offer. Istanbul keeps its buzz, and offers cultural events showcasing everything from traditional heritage to the latest innovations and moves in arts let it be visual or music.

So, a taster of what to see and listen to in January:

See Istanbul through the eyes of photojournalists. A selection of photographs from the archives of the Anadolu Agency (until 28 January) are exhibited at the French Culture Centre.

Probably there isn’t one tourist who hasn’t visited the Grand Bazaar, immersing into the hustle-bustle, buying souvenirs or just enjoying the grandeur of the building. Iş Bankasi Museum is displaying exhibits of the 550-year old history of this ancient establishment (until 27 February, 2011).

Perhaps one of the most popular exhibition will be the one hosted by the Pera Museum displaying works of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, selected from the Gelman collection (until 20 March, 2011). Once there, do not skip visiting the rooms displaying 19th century masterpieces depicting life in the tsarist Russia, from the collection of the St Petersburg State Russian Museum. The museum's own collection is well worth taking the time for. It will give you an insight into the Ottoman life (Orientalist painting section) and Istanbul as Eastern and Western artists saw it. Ceramics, and important part of Turkey's cultural heritage, are also on display. Tiles and ceramics from Kütahya, the second most important centre after Iznik were highly regarded for both architectural decoration and everyday household use.

If you are hungry for Turkish contemporary art, head for the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art. "The enemy inside me" displays videos and installations of the internationally acclimed artist Kutluğ Ataman (until 6 March). Hurry up to catch the last days of Ani Çelik Arevyan's photo exhibition ("Nothing is as it seems", until 9 January) in which she has experimented with taking pictures of everyday objects set in different contexts. It will be followed by the very exciting works of Lao Yu, Chinese photographer, who digitally created traditional Chinese landscape paintings from photographic images of garbage. The exhibition opens on 19 March.

The Sakıp Sabancı Museum showcases a unique exhibition introducing you to the development of calligraphy, ilumination and illustration in Islamic art. The Treasures of the Aga Khan exhibition displays objects with written word let it be ceramics, wood, metal, cloth or manusripts and miniatures.

Lovers of music are pampered by the wide selection of concerts. If you are looking for Turkish bands, check Portecho, Athena, Volkan Konak, Ece Dorsay. For regular jazz events, check out the IKSV Salon. Istanbul is also hosting a number of highly acclaimed international artists. The Baroque Days in Istanbul organised by Akbank Sanat has a line-up of highly talented Turkish and international musicians. Lou Donaldson is returning to Istanbul and will be playing in Salon IKSV. Paco Pena is bringing flamenco fever to the Iş Sanat Cultural Centre.

If you come with children, don't miss the PACE Children's Toy Sculpture Workshop, where you can make and play with sculptures.

Relationships matter: Aşure, a dessert to pave your way

2010-12-18T07:09:00.000-08:00

Of the word aşure, two things are likely to spring to one’s mind. For those, who have already visited Turkey, it is likely to be the pudding one can taste in pastry shops. For politically minded, it may be news flashes of the Shi’a processions with men flagellating themselves.

Aşure is both very complex and simple at the same time. Several layers of religious traditions are related to this period of the year. On the other hand, it is a pure and simple form of thanksgiving to God and an expression of unity and dialogue.

In Turkey, bowls of aşure, or Noah’s pudding are being passed among family members, neighbours, members of communities in these very days. Women busy themselves with preparing this sweet in huge pots then ladle it into small bowls to be given to relatives, friends, acquaintances. Aşure symbolises acceptance, unity among God’s creatures, its ritual includes sharing, giving and receiving. It strengthens the bond among family members, makes one get to know the community one lives in, promotes friendship and solidarity. This tradition makes people step over boundaries of religion by getting everyone involved regardless of faith, let it be Islamic, Christian or Jewish.

However, aşure has numerous links to religion. Aşure day (aşure günü) is the 10th day of Muharrem, the first month of Islamic calendar, so the actual date in the Gregorian calendar is changing every year. The Alevis often hold a fast on the first 12 days of the month of Muharrem, and prepare aşure at the conclusion of the fast. They remember the martyrdom of Ali’s son, imam Hüseyin who was murdered in the battle of Kerbala, and also his son, Zeynel Abdin, whose salvation allowed the continuation of the prophet’s family. Going back in time, it was also the day when Prophet Abraham (Ibrahim) was miraculously saved from the fire in the present-day Urfa. Noah’s ark supposedly landed on Mt Ararat on this day, too.

The pudding’s history goes back to Noah (Nuh). After having spent months on the ark, there wasn’t much food left when it was finally set aground. To celebrate the end of the great deluge, Noah ordered all different kinds of ingredients, such as beans, chickpea, grains, nuts, figs, apricots and sugar to be collected and cooked together. This is remembered when aşure is prepared and then distributed in the neighbourhood. According to some tradition, one should send a bowl to 40 households in each cardinal direction.

The actual recipe varies between families, and geographical regions. In some areas, such as Zonguldak or Devrek, even meet is added. Although it is supposed to be prepared of 40 different ingredients, most of the time 7-15 are used. These include grains, pulses, dried fruits, nuts, sugar, rose water. So let’s prepare aşure and share it!

Cooking aşure doesn’t involve any complicated procedures but it needs time and loving care. Try it and experiment with the ingredients and spices.

Ingredients

210g whole wheat or barley

70g chickpeas

70g white beans

20g rice

Water

Dried apricots

Dried figs

Dried redcurrant

Raisins

Cubed flesh of a sweet orange

Almond

2 cups of sugar (or more, if you like it really sweet)

Rose water

Pomegranate seeds and pistachio to decorate

When you decide cooking Noah’s pudding, you will have to plan a little as the chickpea, beans and wheat need to be soaked overnight.

The following day, get all your pots out. Cook the beans and chickpea separately. You will have to use your cooker’s full potential as rice and wheat need to be boiled in their own separate pots, too, until starch comes out. Meanwhile, you can soak the dried fruits. When bean, chickpea, wheat and rice are ready, it’s time to get your biggest pot out and mix all the cooked ingredients, dried fruits and almond. Put it back on and cook it all together for about 20 minutes. Check if you need to add a little more water. Add the cubed orange pieces and cook it for another 5 minutes. Finally add the sugar and let it simmer for a few minutes. Add the rosewater after turning the heat off. Ladle the mixture into small bowls and garnish with pomegranate and dust with finely ground pistachio.

Enjoy and don’t forget about inviting your loved ones!

And this is for my friends...

A sweet delight for the cold season - kabak tatlısı

2010-12-02T02:06:00.000-08:00

Autumn arrives with an array of warm colours making up for cold winds and morning frost. Markets heave with colours: the deep red of pomegranates, the soft brown or mustard yellow of pears, the crisp greens and reds of apples, and the blast of bright orange of pumpkins.

Pumpkin has arrived to Turkey from the New World via Europe in the 17^th century. Finding optimal environment, it has spread rapidly and has very soon claimed its own niche in Turkish cuisine. Pumpkin with walnuts, pumpkins stuffed with sweet or savoury fillings, pumpkin flower dolma, and pumpkin soup made their way to the sultans’ kitchen as well.

As a member of the Cucurbita family, pumpkin’s relatives include cucumbers, gherkins, melons. Noting the similarity, in the 16^th century, Jacques Cartier called the weird new fruit he found in the St Lawrence region of North America “gros pompon”. The root of the word goes back to the Greek word for “melon” – pepon. However, the first pumpkins probably came to Europe with the returning Spanish conquistadors, although these were cultivated first for feeding animals only. Pumpkins are valuable for a healthy diet as they are high in fibre, rich in beta and alpha carotene, potassium. Pumpkin seeds are a good source of protein, vitamin K, iron, zinc, phytosterols and L-tryptophan.

Embark on a culinary journey and try kabak tatlısı, or pumpkin desert to bring a new flavour to the usual array of pumpkin soups or pumpkin pies. In Turkey, you will find this on family dinner tables or sold in the street. It can be accompanied with walnuts or clotted cream (kaymak), or simply wrapped in a piece of paper and handed to you over the counter.

Preparation

The simplest mode of preparing poached pumpkin uses 3 ingredients only: pumpkin (or butternut squash), sugar and lemon juice. The pumpkin needs to be peeled, seeded and cubed.

Once ready with these, you’re done with the hardest and most (active) time consuming part of the whole process. Now, you will just have to cover the pumpkin slices in sugar: the ratio of pumkin to sugar is 2:1.

Cover your bowl and leave the pumpkin sit there under the sugar overnight (or at least for 3-4 hours). You will be amazed how much juice the sugar will draw from the pumpkin.

You will be cooking the pumpkin in in this syrupy juice for about 30 minutes. During cooking, add the lemon juice. Don’t overcook, or you will end up with a mushy pumpkin cream instead. When you see the pumkin getting a deeper orange colour, it is ready.

To make the outside hardened and crispy, lime powder can be used. You will have to soak the pumpkin pieces in lime water for about 6 hours. After having washed the pumpkin slices, you cook them in a mixture of sugar, lemon and water.

Of course, you can play with adding various spices to the cooking liquid – try cloves, or star anise, ginger, cardamom. This vegetable is perfect for testing your creativity! Afiyet olsun!

Wild rivers don’t run free anymore

2010-10-15T11:40:00.000-07:00

Not only do we all need water, most of us even like it: to quench one’s thirst or just to relax and feel the way water is hugging your body. Some prefer a bathtub filled with Evian others would just dip in the next natural water. No matter which one is your choice, having a water source is a fundamental requirement for all human habitats.

When looking at the map of Turkey, you will find the land criss-crossed by rivers, with huge lakes sitting here and there. Not so surprising, that this land gave home to early human settlements and ancient civilisations. The rivers Euphrates (Fırat) and Tigris (Dicle) define Mesopotamia, the cradle of civilisation. The once winding and untamed rivers supplied vital water for the crop and provided the settings for Gilgamesh’ story.

However, with the 20^th century there came some serious modifications. Ambitious plans were drawn to gain electricity and to build irrigation systems. Huge reservoirs and dams transformed the land and prospects for agriculture. But meanwhile, it all has also implied social, environmental and cultural changes – and not necessarily for the better. Several hundred villages were flooded and poor farmers were forced to leave their homes and were resettled elsewhere. Natural environment has been transformed affecting habitats for plants and animals and archaeological sites were submerged.

The largest is the South-Eastern Anatolia Project (GAP) with 22 dams built so far. One of the largest barrages of the world was built on the Euphrates as part of this project – and was obviously named after Atatürk. Tourists traveling from Urfa to the “Nemrut heads” usually stop by here. Further on, the ancient town of Halfeti, once a centre for Christianity and a prosperous station on the main Silk Road was cut into two as a result of the construction of the Birecik Dam, and part of the town was submerged. Some fine Armenian stonework and the old mosque are now under water with the minaret peaking out. A similar fate is lying ahead of Hasankeyf along the Tigris River if the government pressed on with the plans of the Ilısu dam. Although, now, there are plans for transferring some of the historical monuments before flooding the area, the unique landscape and traditional lifestyle would still be lost. Renovations have actually started – partly to strengthen ruins that would be moved and to protect the ones that would not be submerged under water. Meanwhile, professionals and civil initiatives, even via Facebook protest against plans.

A similar fate is awaiting the Çoruh River. Running wild in the North-East, in the Kaçkar mountains, it is one of the world’s finest white river rafting area, and also a centre for eco-tourism. The Çoruh River Development Plan includes 13 dams on the Çoruh River itself – submerging villages, churches, mosques and important habitats. The area is outstanding for its biodiversity with numerous endemic species. Integrity of the ecosystem will be damaged leading to loss of species. It will impact the diversity of human culture as well, leading to a loss of traditional communities. A civil movement is fighting for the survival of the survival of this area.

It was Blog Action Day today with the topic of water…

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Here are some tips how you can do something for saving our water resources: