From Russia With Law

Saying good-bye to Irkutsk--the visual in words

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 02:26:00 +0000

So, here I am, standing on the tarmac at the Irkutsk airport. This moment provides a glimpse of all that is Russia. To the right--a brick building, dilapidated Soviet, but still in use.
To the far end of the runway, military helicopters and planes simply left where they were last used, decades ago, slowly expiring in the Siberian Winter.
A gleaming new marble, brick and steel airport building--state-of-the-art--flanked by its Soviet-era predecessor.
On the horizon, cranes erecting modern apartments, condominiums and office buildings (far more cranes, by the way, than I've seen in a very long time in any Northern US city. These are, by the way, not government buildings, a-la the endless building at public expense at UW and by the State and Federal governments.)
Of course, you still take a bus from the terminal to the plane in Irkutsk and even in Moscow. Efficient, I suppose, in Cozumel, Mexico, but Siberia and Russia? Some habits will not die.
The Russian people have learned from the mistakes of their government. Capitalism is, I think, here to stay, as are the expectations of a free people.
As I pass thru Moscow today's headline reads "Russia seeks to Privatize Health Care"--really that is what it said. The irony of this shift away from socialism at the moment the US seeks to emulate it is not lost on the articles author. These are indeed interesting and unpredictable times.
So, I bid farewell to Irkutsk and to Russia. A truly great trip with Dr. Morgan
Thank you especially to Galiana Iseava--Gala. I can never thank her enough.
I have made friends and I hope left some legacy of the value of liberty and freedom.
Das Vidania.

INDUSTRIAL FARMS

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 02:17:00 +0000

We had just completed an important stop--vodka & cigarettes to the Gods--when Andrew, the dentist, said we should take a bit of a side trip to see a particular mountain. It seems taht this particular peak was important to the native Boriats because it is the lcoation of athletic contests similar to the Olympics. To get to this peak though requires a horse. We have no horse. We have a car. If you saw this road you would agree that a car is a poor subsitute, or as we say this was a road made for a rental car.

We're dodging holes the size of the car and every imaginable rock, boulder and log that they have in Siberia, when I notice a series of huge old brick buildings to our left. They are obviously abaondoned (but then some things that look abandoned here, are not, so we stop). Of course, Jimmy will ask about anything and it turns out those buildings were the area Cooperative Farm, an industrial centralized 'collective' farm of the Soviet times. When the Soviet collapsed, the farming systems collapsed overnight. There were widespread food shortages and to this day much of the land remains unused. Here was a genuine monument to the stupidity of government control. It was a sight I will never forget. Painful to think about for these people I have come to know, like and respect. As I sat thinking of this trip and all its memorab le moments, I think that sight was the most poignant and perhaps the most memorable.

Saying Goodbye Again

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Fri, 23 Apr 2010 06:03:00 +0000

So, my trip is winding down. Yesterday we took this picture as I presented certificates to each of the students, and what extraordinary students they were.

They asked me to describe the differences between them and American students and I hesitated a long time before answering. It was a real surprise, a real pleasant surprise, in 2008 and again this year to realize these students are as bright, as inquisitive and as challenging as any I've known in America. The more senior law students would match against any of the brightest law students in US law schools.

The methods of teaching are different here, and so it takes several days for the students to adapt to the idea that there is never a simple right answer to most questions and to adapt to having to argue with me and others in defense of their answers. But, once freed, it is katy-bar-the-door.

I like to believe the students both enjoy the class and gain something special from it. I am certain they leave with much more respect for the american lawyer and the dedication those american lawyers have to the system of justice. Today at a final lunch with the dean and senior faculty we had a lengthy discussion about Russian corruption that became a way of life as government took-over the lives of the people. They all commented on how long it will take to overcome that mentality, but they believe it has begun. (I heard the same thing from a judge two days ago.)

Candor does not come naturally.

Several former students stopped by and today I am going to an art exhibition by one of my former pupils (the one who presented me with an amazing fish made from the petals of siberian flowers in 2008). Hearing from former students--now that's a satisfying moment.

As before, I was a bit choked-up saying good-bye. This is an extraordinary place with extraordinary people. That they have shared some of that with me--that too is extraordinary.

I hope that I will have an opportunity in the next several days to talk about several events--an art museum that is unknown to the outside world, and some thoughts on today. But that will wait until I am on the way. Until then....Iceland willing...

Das Vidania

The world out there

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 07:17:00 +0000

Did you ever wonder what you would do if you were oblivious to 'events'? There was a time, you know, that one did not live from minute to minute, crazed by the latest Washington DC debacle, or fearful of what might become of the world if, say, a volcano erupted. As I stood on the porch of my apartment last night looking at the same moon I will see each day at my home, I did think what a joy it is to 'not know.'
I suppose folks in Washington or California think of those of us in Cross Plains as akin to residents of Siberia. Far from what matters. But really, what matters? Aside from family and friends and their day-to-day lives, what really matters? 9-11 is the only thing that stands-out as a public event in several decades, and now Americans seem hell-bent on forgetting about that as well. (I think the politically correct term is we need a "reset" button. By the way, there was an article in the Moscow Times (a pro-West paper, by the way) about how Putin's visit to Chavez was very much a middle finger gesture to Washington. So much for the reset, and that was Pro-West paper's view....Sorry, I digressed.)
So, though many people think of me as truly an addict to politics and news, I think there is a therapy for such an addiction. Come to Siberia. There is an ancient lake here sorrounded by lands sacred to many cultures for centuries. When the Czar 'gave away' Alaska it was with a comment, "We have enough. More land is just more problems." And look what it has given us--Sarah P., and on that I'll let you make your own judgments. (She can, afterall see Russia from her house, right?)
It may be cold in Siberia, but it is a breath of fresh of air.
Das Vidania

Fiesta Russkie

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 06:53:00 +0000

Now, you can not make this stuff up!
That's the Vice Rector (#2 at the University) and Former Dean of the Law School, and the Fajitas were very good.

Teaching:the Process '10

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 06:37:00 +0000

Teaching here is its own experience. As I've gotten to know the students abilities and interests I've had great fun adding material and restructuring the presentations. All this is, of course, a great frustration for Gala, my extraordinary translator, as she studies my presentations to be comfortable with the specialized vocabulary. None-the-less she smiles and says nothing directly to me about my callousness.
This time around I've tried to take pictures around town and then I add those pictures each day into the presentation in order to illustrate a point. That marvelous puppy picture from the weekend (printed in another blog) became a great tool for the students to tell me why the puppy dealer should prefer a "sole proprietorship" over a "corporation" or "partnership." The picture of the meat counter was a great vehicle for me to ask about what constitutes a contract and would there be a cause of action for breach of contract if the meat was tainted. I'm quite certain they've never had a class like mine. To steal a phrase "Law is all around us...."
Of course, I still use a fish picture each day. Justice Bablitch with a walleye, Sarah with a huge northern, James with a redfish in New Orleans (I used that to ask about 'gifts'--are they enforcable contracts?). Today we needed something to talk about why one would form a corporation, so I put up my law Christmas Card picture with Christ, Stew Karge, Sarah and me in front of float plane in Canada. I asked what type of entity they would suggest for the outfitters/airplane business and then asked why would they want to choose a corporation. (Limit risk, of course. Because Airplane travel is always a risk--just ask my colleague Bill Morgan who is now stranded in Moscow trying to fly back to the States.)
So, while all the teachers here use a simple lecture system, this class is a exercise in making the law real and making the obligations of lawyers something above and beyond 'self'--to protect the Rule of Law.
Tomorrow we move to Environmental Law. I'll illustrate that with pictures of a host of contaminated sites around town and I'll also ask them to propose legislation that is consistent with the general rules of freedom, liberty and capitalism. We will also use the film Civil Action--which they say in Russian yesterday--to talk about environmental laws and a lawyers obligation to his clients. After class tomorrow, they will watch To Kill a Mockingbird. (They have all read the book as part of their English classes and wanted to see the film, in English. Atticus is the epitome of a lawyer for them (and most of the rest of us, as well)). Should be fun--as is every day of teaching.
Das Vidania.

To the Market We Go

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:33:00 +0000

Not to put a fine point on it, but this really is Capitalism on Steriods. I know somewhere there is a Russian who is not 'into' free markets, because afterall that's what the New York Times says, but you won't find that guy here in Irkutsk. I thought two years ago our wanderings had taken us to all the Irkutsk markets--I was wrong.

In addition to the endless seed vendors (can't find a garden anywhere, but sure can find seeds, seed potatoes, onion sets--you name it), there is that marvelous 'doggie' market. (This is NOT Korea, so it's properly a "pet" market. I know they are pets because Gala, my translator, was complaining that her 19 year old daughter brought home a new dog recently for her. With three grand-pets (two dogs, one cat) I get the point.) [More really cool stuff about the Siberian Bear at the Humane society later this week. I'm not kidding, I have the pictures. (again, one of those teasers to make you come back)]

But the best of all was the 'super' market. We could not, this time and last, figure out why the small grocery store seemed to be the only place to buy food in the area of any size. It is no larger than a big convenience store, though it has everything you could want. Well, now I know. Hopefully some fo the pictures above provide a bit of flavor.

Das Vidania

Religion:Not to be Denied

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:06:00 +0000

Whenever I travel I try to attend Mass. (I know, you're thinking "because if ever there was someone who needed it, you're the guy....") Now the best church service had to be that little church north of Sioux Narrows. My brother, Christ, and I served mass in 1960's for a French speaking priest who concluded with this blessing, "Now for our servers, catch ze' Beeg One". Yesterday I wandered over to the Polish Catholic Church erected in the 1880's by Polish exiles. It was converted in Soviet times to a music hall--and it is still that. But, as I looked to see if they had Mass, a little lady (pictured above) saw me and, not speaking a word of English, led me around to the back of the Church, then in thru a small door to a chapel in what was once the area the priest would have had his vestments. And there, in the humblest of settings you can imagine was an altar, one wooden pew. She showed me where to hang my coat and we sat down together--and then others began to arrive. One by one, eventually about 20 people, all adults, some ancient, some about my age, a few younger took seats and stood in the walkway. The priest--easily the youngest in the room--came in, lit each candle, and began the Mass.

I don't speak a lick of Russian, but the Mass was exactly the same as St. Thomas in form, and I had a printout that was in the pew. Even the songs were sung, as at home, though obviously without organ or piano. A different reader came up for each reading. The sermon was excellent (ok, I didn't understand a word, but that's still better than some I've heard over the years). I knelt on the floor, with all the others (as there were not kneelers), and I received the blessing. In fact, because the words are exactly the same, I was sometimes able to follow the Russian (I do read a bit). All-in-all, I do believe this qualifies as a real gift. A moment of worship, in a place so distant, and a time such worship is allowed.

We take so much for granted.

Das Vidania.

Changes Continue

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Thu, 15 Apr 2010 09:09:00 +0000

Tex-Mex Restaurant--in IRKUTSK!

The pace of change in Irkutsk is accelerating. While there were almost no restaurants two years ago, there are now more than enough to eat out for several weeks. In just a brief walk yesterday we passed two Italian, a Mexican, multiple Japanese, several 'Western'--no chains yet, and a host of cafe's and bars. Two years ago you could have counted on one hand all the places to eat in and around downtown Irkutsk.
The number of cars, too, seems to have multiplied. Downtown streets are clogged and only those willing to play human 'frogger' can cross outside the marked cross-walks. (Trust me, I tried. And I'm really good at Frogger.)
There are numerous apartments and office/university buildings going up within a few blocks of Baikal University, and here at the University they appear to have been in constant construction for the past years.
Its interesting to see, as well, how stores have moved around. The fanciest jewelry, cosmetics and clothing stores seem to have decided that it is trendier to be just off Karl Marx Street (the main street downtown). But, the storefronts on Karl Marx remain completely occupied, though with different stores than in 2008. That is a sure sign of a dynamic economy.
There is an enormous amount of vacant or farm land here (Dah--it's Siberia) so it will be interesting to watch in coming years for American and European style suburban sprawl. We've been out of town several times and for now it appears there is only very modest growth of single family homes.
Even the University is growing in numbers according to the Vice-Rector, to now more than 30,000 students at five campuses. The Law School is the 4th Law School in Russia to offer a Doctorate, and that secures its place as one of the top law schools in the Russian Federation. The University is headed by an economist committed to growth, trade and entrepeneurship, and that is one very powerful combination these days. The Vice-Rector in charge of my visit is anxious to form a partnership with the University of Wisconsin and I've promised him that I will help him explore those possibilities when I return. (At least no one will be surprised by the weather.)
In fact, it even seems there are more banks here than in 2008, and there are certainly ATM's everywhere.
So, capitalism is alive and well on the shores of Lake Baikal. That is a very satisfying phenomenon. Those who have tried more government, reject it. And that is good news for the freedon and liberty.
Das Vidania

Socrates of the North Returns

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 09:35:00 +0000

Back in the Irkutsk Classroom

Well, having recovered from a weekend of Russian baths (a story yet to be told), yurt restaurants, Benilli Shotgun target practice (oh my goodness another story yet to be told) and just generally trying to wear out Dr. Morgan, my travelling companion, and unable to find a good bottle of Ouzo, I must return to the classroom. And so, Monday arrives and with the help of that Russian cosmonaut from Independence Day, we fire-up the power points and away we go.
I have about 35 students ranging from age 18 to 25 across all the law school's classes. They've heard from others that this might not be the same old stuff so they shuffle in wondering what to expect. Within just a few minutes they find out this really won't be the same old stuff.
In the Russian system professors lecture and students take notes. But there is no way we're going to act like Russians here. (Probably not the best idea if I gave it much thought and noticed the guards at all the entrances--harmless really. No, really. The guards look more like Russian soldiers on a pension and this is one great gig. The young women (and Karen has given me permission to say this) are astounding looking, and what military guy would pass-up a daily parade.)
The students this year dress like Russian mobsters (black coats, black pants, black shirts--the boys) and well you know what the young ladies dress like. Some things have not changed.
And, speaking of not changing, these kids are knock-down,in your face, brilliant. They don't know it the first day because they've never been asked their opinion before. But, by today, my third day, they are arguing with me, arguing with each other and passing notes about what they think about their neighbors dumb ideas. It's such a joy to see the transformation within just a few days. Given the opportunity, these young Russians blossom even as I'm providing a bit of water.
So, while we started slowly, the movie a Few Good Men (dubbed into Russian) was shown after class on Tuesday and today they all had an opinion and they all wanted to share it. The Dean watched for a while, and I'll be curious to hear his opinion. For me, today was just great fun, and tomorrow we address Civil Rights and Discrimination, so hopefully it will be even more lively.
Terrorism was high on our list of topics the first three days, and I hope to talk about that soon, here. It is fascinating how it has affected the students views about free speech and military power. One young lady openly said she was a "Stalinist".
So, I have returned. the Socratic method in full regalia. (Actually, as one student pointed out, a bit more than full regalia when my pen exploded all over my shirt and coat the first day.) Socrates has returned, and hopefully unlike my fellow Greeks, the return will not soon be bankrupt.

Das Vidania

Yurt on Ice Or Shore Lunch a-la Baikal

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:48:00 +0000

The results of a good day fishing on Baikal--Siberian style

Now this is the way to fish!

Yes, there really is "Yurt on Ice" Resturaunt

When last we met I was prone on the ice, face planted in a small hole staring down at passing fish. Like the Vodka, this water is really really really clear. As in, you can see Wisconsin from the other side and the fish just keep passing by. And, just like Wisconsin, they pass by the hook, again and again and again. Warmed though by the hope of grayling one remains with his face planted in the hole. Now, one really great benefit of this approach is only the most padded part of this old guy's anatomy is exposed. Still, being an old guy, getting up is a bit dicey--like driving a car across ice (oh, yeah, we did that....)

So, once you have lifted yourself off the Siberian Ice, you stare into the distance and the ice just does not end. (though it does move, creak and otherwise scare the bejesus out of any sane person, but I believe I've already established my likely sanity by coming here in the first place, so not to worry). But, there in the distance, what is that?

At first one might think this is an uncivilized place, prone as it is, like Notre Dame, to Vodka Gods, but you would be wrong. In fact, there are resturaunts. Well, sort-of. Mongolia is not far away and you know those Mongolians, you let one in and soon there are yurts everywhere. And so, one should not be surprised to find a wandering Mongolian yurt on the ice, right? Now I know what you're thinking. Jim, you've gone loop-de-loop. Too much vodka. But, you would be wrong--as usual. There, on the ice, is an honest to God Yurt. Not just any Yurt, a restaurant Yurt. Again, 'sort-of'.

It's not the Four Seasons (because you booby they don't have four seasons here, but then when's that last time you went to a "grand" hotel and they gave you a thousand bucks.... Maybe it's just that it costs a thousand bucks? Never realized that until now. So the name does make sense. Oops, digressing again.), but as you bend down to enter you'll notice two tables and 4 ladies there to help you. (When's the last time you had that much help in a resturaunt. Apparently they did not get the message about efficiency.)

OK, ordering a meal in a Yurt, served by 4 Boriats, at two tables in the middle of a frozen lake is just not very odd, is it? Becuase, the story does not end there.

Now, I've mentioned Andrew, the dentist, who, not unlike yours truly would fish anywhere, anytime for anything. Well, why waste all that time eating in a Yurt. I mean, for goodness sake you are, afterall, on top of the water. I mean would you stop fishing if, say, you were on a cruise boat? At least a little trolling, right? So, Andrew asks the obvious question, and we are again drilling, by hand, halfway to Wisconsin, but this time we first have to move the rug aside. Now this is luxury. Fishing from the table, in a Yurt, on Lake Baikal, in the company of native Boriats, eating something I don't have a clue about (but because it's what I caught earlier, I assume the method of cooking this on the adjacent wood stove and the accompanying dishes won't kill me--at least not quickly. And, anyway, you're in the middle of a creaking, moving, ice pack, so eating unknown food is not high on the list of worries.) But, in case you wonder about what we caught, that's what we caught in the pan on the table. And, for the record, it was delicious. (Yeah, Yeah, that's a bottle of vodka next to it, so "maybe" it was not so good, but it sure seemed like it. Shore Lunch--A-la-Baikal)

A final note. You would think these Boriats were wild and crazy folks, prone to hunting and gathering as needed. You would, as usual, be very wrong. It seems they had never fished thru the ice before in their yurt (maybe they thought it was not the safest thing to do-but why? They had a large wood burning stove and the place was hot as Florida on a July morning (probably about negative 50, but it sure seemed like Florida) so cutting a hole halfway to Wisconsin couldn't be much of a problem.) The picture of our hosts fishing is precious, but being there, now that is hard to top.

Oh, by the way, outside the yurt sat a beautiful new Toyota Land Cruiser. Apparently this Yurt Resturaunt business ain't half bad.

Das Vidania

Siberian Fishing:Or, Is it really that Cold

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:33:00 +0000

Bill, the Floridian, on ice, headed back to car.

Jim, Drilling to Wisconsin

We're spinning across the lake at the speed of light and I'm not believing what I'm seeing. Other cars. No kidding, it's negative 95, we're a gazillion miles from god-awful-nowhere and there are cars driving by (well, actually, "trying" to drive is more accurate, but hey who cares--it's 6 miles deep (not kidding), we're on ice, I can't understand a single word and I'm supposed to care about the "other" cars?) Now all this is absolute proof that fishing is the ultimate sport. There is such enormous pleasure that I'm not the only human left willing to do it in these conditions. Maybe there is another explanation. Think about it?
So, we arrive in the middle of the "small sea"--that's what the call the area between Olkhorn Island and the land, like Lake Baikal with 20% of all the worlds water doesn't qualify, but this 'back bay' does. Now "back bay" is relative. It's like 100 miles long and, as I said way deep. How do you decide where to 'arrive'? It's ice, as in the movie Fargo (with the same wierd guys)without any mark. We're doing it the old fashioned way, with a preprogrammed GPS unit.
We spin to a stop.
Then, out comes the manual drill. I'm in a 50,000$ car with video backup screens, DVD's, and GPS and now Andrew insists "We do it this way because it's best to do it the old fashioned way." Huh? I'm in favor of dynamite, but we begin to drill, and drill and drill. There is no end to the ice. And we drill. And my arms are dying, but I can't admit it--no way I get beaten by a Russian (Vive America! Even if you-know-who says we should apologize, ain't no way. At least with the appropriate amount of liquid courage(hint, hint--remember the Gods)) Well, just short of reaching Wisconsin thru the ice I reach water--4+' deep(the drill actually runs out)--and this is "Spring Ice"!
I'm ready to go--new boots, black mask, scarf, LL Bean jacket, long underwear, two pairs of socks, heavy shirt thermal gloves, stocking hat, hood, appropriate amounts of liquid anesthetic (hint, hint, wink, wink)--I waddle back to the hole.
Now, the wind is like 40 mph and the temperature is negative 90 (it keeps warming up, you see). You think I'm kidding, right? You've never been to Siberia, in the middle of Lake Baikal on 4' of ice. You drop a glove, it blows to Mongolia.
All this is amazing, I know, but think about this--I've brought a guy here who lives in FLORIDA. Florida! Home of folks who think they should break out the parka at 60 degrees. Bill gives a try, then retreats quickly to the car for some more liquid anesthetic. (He's a doctor--it's prescribed--he uses that fancy Latin "Vodski".)
So, I sit above a 6" hole (again, I know I'm wrong. It's some amount of meters, centimeters, kilometers, parkingmeters, or something, but given the hole is roughly halfway to Wisconsin I thought I'd use the new-world term.) I put on some little (and I'm talking microscopically little) worms (just because we're in the middle of who-knows-where, in sight of the North Pole (or so it feels) doesn't mean we're going to go artificial. That's far too sporting, and remember I'd use dynamite if that's what it took.) I've got a pole that looks like it was bought at K-mart in 1953. And, wonder of wonders I actually start catching fish. (You don't believe me, do you? Admit it, you don't believe me. But I don't care, because the only way you can find out is you too come to Siberia and so my story is safe. That's my story and a I'm sticking to it.) Well, tomorrow (here comes the teaser) you get see picture of the fish cooking, in a yurt, on the ice, while fishing by picnic table, with Boriat's. So, you better stop back.
One last item--and I'm not kidding--if you really want to catch fish you lie down on the ice at negative 95, with the wind howling, with your face in that hole and you look down. You can see the fish! I know I probably shouldn't have told you that, because now the next thing you know you'll be coming here with all those other Floridians and building water-slides and McDonalds. Of course, first you must pray to the Vodka Gods.
Das Vidania.

Endless Ice:Do Vodka and Ice mix?

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:07:00 +0000

When we last left off,I was drinking my way thru the Boriat Territories requesting ever more boisteriously at each Shrine to the Vodka Gods for a good day fishing. Now, we've all heard that old saw--A bad day fishing is better than a good day at the office--but let's think about that for a minute. You're in a nice warm Toyota Land Cruiser, drinking with impunity, arguing about whether the Russians or the Americans won World War II and outside it's negative 95 (warmed up since earlier) and the wind is howling at about 40 mph (can't do that darn kilometer conversion, which is the 'correct' way out here I suppose). As we approach Lake Baikal near Olkhorn Island the road disappears. Really. It's gone, but there is a track across the permafrost tundra with holes the size of a pickup truck.
Andrew, a dentist, appears to know the way across the pasture and beyond there is something that looks like ice. But, first, there is that large military truck on the left. Maybe it's nuclear? Maybe they want tickets to Disney World and they heard Bill Morgan is in the car from Florida. Maybe they just want to shoot us, knowing there is no more Dick Cheney to come and blow them to smitherenes. I'm soon relieved. Andrew knows them and strikes up a conversation (of course I can't understand a word--maybe he's negotiating my release.) Andrew returns--I'm guessing the amount of Vodka we've had (with the blessing of the Gods, of course) is of no concern to the gendarmes but he's carrying something. The 'something' turns out to be a map of where "not to go" on the Lake. You see, it may be negative 95, but its Spring here in Siberia and the ice might be a bit dicey. (Just what I wanted to hear as we speed out on to the endless ice of Lake Baikal--thank goodness the Gods have been honored...)
And we do speed out on to the ice. Just a couple of 'donuts'. (For those who live south the border i.e. border of Wisconsin, a "donut" is when your car begins an uncontolled circular spin on the ice. Darn fun in the parking lot, but let's say a bit more risky on the deepest lake on the planet, in the 'spring', with maps saying maybe it's not all that safe.... Now, I'm thinking maybe its the ice, but perhaps its the vodka. And then I remember my brother Christ never mixes ice with the Vodka, and it's shaken, not stirred.)
So, thus begins the journey onto Lake Baikal--and the proof is in the picture

Vodka to the Gods

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Mon, 12 Apr 2010 07:24:00 +0000

Ah, back to Russia. Or should I say welcome to Spring in Siberia. Roughly negative 100 celsius, snowing, windy--think Zhivago tapping on the windows at Varykino. In point of fact, Kulcheck made famous for his lack of a sense of humor and other brutal acts in the movie, the leader of the White Army, was thrown into the Angara after being shot, and there is now a statue to commemorate his struggles against the Communists at that spot. (I think it was the White Army, but maybe the Reds. But, how could it be the Reds when the Communists are 'reds'? And really, who cares as everyone (except America) is now a capitalist.). His death ended the revolution and made it possible for millions to be brutally murdered in the balance of the 20th Century. But, hey who's counting, and once Peristroika came there was no more Soviet--only capitalists (see the blog from 2008 if you disagree).

Seriously, there are way too many stories to tell, and I've only learned how to upload pictures today. So, beginning tomorrow (this is the teaser....) we'll be discussing stories that will make your vodka freeze.

Speaking of Vodka, we were travelling to Lake Baikal on Saturday morning for a bit of ice-fishing (2nd teaser--a topic for tomorrow, and you can not imagine how cold it was....not even in Wisconsin) and we entered the Boriat Independent Republic. The "Boriat Republic" is a sort of weak sister to the Ho-Chunk. Though they have independent authority within Russia on behalf of the Native Peoples--the Boriat's--they have yet to discover gambling. So, no water slides yet on Lake Baikal. Boriat's were horse breeders who supplied the likes of Genghis Kahn and Stalin with things they might need (Genghis Kahn and Stalin--now they just had to be cousins. Quiz?Which of them killed more people? Which of them killed more brutally? I know, it's probably a tie.) Anyway, the point of all this is that while dodging wild horses on the road, skidding to avoid very furry cattle (dah, better be fury, it's negative 100) and attempting to look non-descript to avoid being stopped by the KGB or local bandits (is there a difference?) we began discussing the Boriat religion.

Now, there are strange religious traditions and then there are Boriat traditions. Actually Christians and Jews believe in a burning bush and splitting of the Red Sea, so who are we to cast aspersions. But, I tend to like the Boriat traditions better. You see, as you drive down the road there are shrines (trees really, with fortunes tied to them in cloth), and you must stop at each one to make a sacrifice to the Gods or you risk calamity on Lake Baikal. (Driving on ice,isn't that enough of a calamity?) Now I thought perhaps we'd be cutting off some appendage. Preferably one of Dr. Morgan's, but I was not sure. So, at the first shrine we stop and cast out of the car Rubles. And there were rubles all over the ground. Later we left cigarettes under a rock and more rubles (and again the rubles cast before us were still there--obviously not America.) Fruit we left at still another. But, we certainly did one thing at every shrine, without fail--drink vodka.

This is a tradition built for Wisconsin!

Each time we stopped out came the vodka and glasses were poured. One must first put vodka on the fourth finger of the right hand and sprinkle it on the ground near the shrine. Then, well, car be damned, drink it down. Just to make the point that you were there, you then leave the bottle (no bottle closed after opened--see Vodka Wars, below). And there are roughly a gazillion empty bottles at each shrine.

We've all heard of "drunk on the power of God", but "drinking for the love of God", now we're talking. This religion comes to America, good-bye Christianity.

So, does the 1st Amendent protect my right to drink and drive? There's the case I want.

I should sober-up enough to write a bit more about the trip (the part I remember) tomorrow.

Das Vidania

Airport--Modern Ties arrive

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Mon, 12 Apr 2010 07:14:00 +0000

Just in case you were wondering, this is now the domestic terminal SVO airport in Moscow. Put's JFK, O'Hare, LAX and many others to shame. Of course here is Dr. Morgan, my travelling companion, using a Kindle and/or studying Russian (thank goodness one of us is a smart guy), while I'm off exploring or otherwise seeing if I can land in a Russian jail.

ICE FISHING--REALLY

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 00:33:00 +0000

Sorry about the lack of pictures. The computer is not cooperating--hopefully next week.
Big News:WE ARE GOING FISHING ON BAIKAL. Well, Ice-fishing--so 'casting' may be a bit difficult. We leave before sun-up Saturday and back Sunday night (so no new posts.)
But contemplate this. Dr. Bill, a/k/a thin-blooded Dr. Bill, is being dragged (hooked?) to the coldest spot on the planet to dig a hole roughly 4" across and oh let's say 1.5 miles deep in order to sit a can with a bamboo rod and bobber hoping to catch a fish (a cold, the flu, a nerpa seal). If this does not test our friendship... Now if Flint Stephens were here, he'd be driving a massive pick-up truck onto the Ice and shooting the giant fish with a 50 caliber rifle--and enjoying every frigid minute. I, of course, will find out if I'm a 'real man' able to take on Siberian winter fishing. (May make the outback seem tame.)
Provided we survive the coming adventure I'll be teaching on Monday morning. (I'm having the 'test' dream--the one where you just remember you have a test, but you forgot to study or attend classes and you'll utterly fail in life and the class as a result.) Maybe a bit of fishing will get my mind off that first day jitters.

Das Vidania.

The Pleasure of Russian Travel

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 00:23:00 +0000

40+ hours travelling, and the end snow and single digits—and it was a GREAT DAY. Indeed, what more could one want than to go to Siberia with someone from Florida. I mean, in a world of contrasts what better way to address the frigid north than with a tanned Doctor Florida Doctor? (My guess is he’ll stop shivering by early June.)
Recall the first trip to Russia began with a memorable 7 hours in Terminal 1 of the SVO Airport. The “domestic side” complete with donkeys, chickens, toilet paper that was, well, a ‘bit’ rough (as in sandpaper cardboard) in a terminal from the 1930’s stuffed to the gills with men who have not used deodorant in this lifetime (and from the marvelous eminations all of them ran a marathon that morning). Alas, for those after such local color, it has gone the way of the DODO! Here are just a few of the pictures of the extraordinarily beautiful Terminal 2, Russian Domestic:
TERMINAL 2, Level 3 Departures

TYPICAL NEWS KIOSK, Dr. Morgan on his Kindle.
CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE—A WING OF TERMINAL 2, MOSCOW
And as we arrived in Frigid Irkutsk—yet another new airport to replace the chicken coop of 2 years ago.
And as we arrived at our apartment in Gorky Street, on the BNUEL campus, there was yet more construction with a new addition to the University, and the street closed for ongoing construction.
He Russians are Building, the Russians are Building.

It is certainly Siberia

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 05:29:00 +0000

Arrived at 5:30 a.m. today--near zero, a light snow--Welcome to April in Siberia.
Much to address, but am running between meetings, so hopefully early tomorrow, providing I'm not snowed out.

The VISA Travails

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Tue, 06 Apr 2010 15:46:00 +0000

It has arrived, and I am on the way.
So the journey really began about three weeks ago with our attempt--futile--to get a Visa (and I don't mean the credit card). Now, one ought not complain when you come from a country that will bar those vicious thumb-sucking scoundrels--fisherman--from reentering the United States if they have daned to visit those Socialists to the North (Canadians) and did not bring bring a US passport. Now, I realize that keeping "Canadians" out can make some sense (right George Troupis--afterall we have one in the White House), as they will infect us with such ideas as nationalized health care. Oh, wait, they already did that. Of course, maybe it's retaliation. Try to get into Canada if you ever absconded with a veggie burger from the local natural food store back in California...the mounties will come and put you away forever (no kidding). I digress.
One would think that at this point in our political history the Russians would beg us to come to re-educate those in the politburo about real 'progressivism', and my address is Wisconsin the very home of such tripe. But, NO, they trust no one--not even Fran Wiley, my incredible assistant (and maybe they don't realize she's from Michigan, and everyone is Michigan is trustworthy.) We submit the form--they call to say, no "we need two copies." Now one would think they could just use that modern invention--the copy machine--or even the old invention--orthodox monks painstakingly copying each and every word, but that's not in the Russian rules (like the rules of Russian roullette). Then, they say, "you need to be tested for HIV." OK, I'm a bit old for that, but I comply. Now, compliance for an HIV test is not your normal idea of a test. For that you must a.) Find someone to do it (easy on the West Coast, not so easy in New Glarus, Wisconsin) b.) You must persuade them that it really is needed for a Visa (they don't believe you, of course, but they are from Wisconsin and therefore far too polite to suggest anything) c.) You must sign a gazillion forms d.)You must agree that no one gets to see the results--which is a bit of problem in that you are getting the test to show it to the Russians...a trustworthy lot if there ever was one.
So, we finally complied with all the rules, and wah-la you get your Visa---NOT. Weeks ahead of time two copies, signed versions, tests complete and I've even surrendered by passport to the Russian Embassy, and they decide it's time for some good-old-fashioned bureaucratic delays. They must prove their man-hood, and they won't be pushed around by some two-bit, Wisconsonite Fisherman with an odd Greekish name who they heard from the Royal Canadian Mounties once started a massive forest fire (a story for another day). Each day passes and Fran calls and calls and calls.
Finally, Monday (i'm leaving on Tuesday) the Embassy delivers to San Francisco the Troupis Visa.BUT, I'm in Wisconsin, not California.
Alls-well-that-ends-well. The Visa arrives via American Airlines (now that's an appropriate name, don't you think) in Chicago at 12:15 AM Tuesday. Yours truly takes the 2:00 a.m. bus to get to the package delivery location and here I am now in New York, on my way.
Proof Certain I suppose of who is really in charge in Russia...and it ain't no American. I for one think Hilary should have kept the darn 'reset' button back in her husband's bedroom, and not taken it to Russian relations. Where's Dick Cheney and the Texas Cowboy when you need em.

Easter

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Sun, 04 Apr 2010 16:08:00 +0000

Xpistos Anesti.

Happy Easter.

VISA VISA VISA--WHERE FOR AR'T THOU

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Sat, 03 Apr 2010 14:37:00 +0000

72 hours to my flight to Russia and still not Visa. Ah, isn't Russian efficiency wonderful.

Good Friday--Russian Religion

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 13:38:00 +0000

One of the most striking and unexpected events of our last trip to Russia was the prominence of religion. Churches were refurbished and no one hid their belief in God. Perhaps government edicts remind us of what we cherish most. Government will always attempt to suppress threats to its power and its growth. If that threat is religion, that too will be suppressed over time. That is indisputable, and one can not miss the obvious proof of that today in America. Our freedom and liberty are precious--"One nation under God..." "Endowed by our creator..." "In God we Trust" These are our founding principles.

1 Week to Go

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Tue, 30 Mar 2010 13:45:00 +0000

An interesting proposition--wait until it's near 80 degrees in Wisconsin and then leave for Siberia? Just testing those principles of global warming.
We've sent all the materials, and now it's time to wrap things up at the office. There have been changes at Baikal University, so it will be a bit different. Still, I do hope to see Dean Belkova, Vice-Rector Onoshku and others who were so very kind to Karen and me in 2008. Gala will be there, but I wonder about Svetlana--my other translator--and the I wonder about the many people who welcomed us into their homes.
Ah, and this time I'm taking my own doctor, Dr. Bill Morgan, to review Russian's version of Obamacare. I'm counting on his language skills....afterall he's been living in the South so he's very good at translating, right? (Yiddish from Miami, Spanish from Cuba/Florida, Greek from Tarpon Springs, a form of English used by Bush governors....)
Exciting and scarey.

Here we go Again

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 15:05:00 +0000

On April 6, 2010 I again leave for Russia to teach at Baikal National University of Law & Economics. Dr. Bill Morgan will be joining me. Exciting and busy two weeks ahead as I prepare.

Contact Information & Comments

noreply@blogger.com (James Troupis) — Sun, 04 May 2008 16:28:00 +0000

We're back!

If you have any comments, ideas or just want to be in touch (and I do want to hear from you), you can send me an e-mail at jtroupis@hotmail.com (my personal, not business, e-mail) Of course, you can always simply comment here at the blog, but the e-mails, in contrast, are private. I'm more than a bit curious as to who and how many have been reading, and sure would like to hear your thoughts.

I must express my sincerest thanks to the State Bar of Wisconsin--George Brown and ALL--for encouraging me to complete comments while I was away, and taking care of innumerable details before and during my travels. The State Bar has a really great group of people whom we in the Bar are lucky to have. Thank you!

It was an extraordinary trip that will affect me (and Karen) for the rest of our lives. We met some exceptional people, many of whom you have heard about, some you have not. It was much harder and much more important, satisfying and surprising than I ever anticipated.

Thank you to everyone at Michael Best who covered so many different things while I was away. Had I not been with such a spectacular group of people I would not have considered the trip. You all know that without Fran Wiley I could not have gone. Thanks Fran and everyone.

I've said it over and over again, but it bears repeating that the vice-rector, Olga, dean, Elena, asst. to the vice-rector, Natalya, and two wonderful ladies, Galiana and Svetlana will remain my friends for as long as they are willing to hear from me, and they made this a trip of lifetime. Baikal National University of Economics and Law is an exceptional place because they have exceptional people making it happen, and exceptional students. I hope my small contribution to that marvelous place will inspire great leaders for the future of Russia, and a renewed sense of the importance of Liberty, Freedom and the Rule of Law.

Thank you again. Please let me know if you've been following the blog.

Das Vidanya.