FUR FIN FEATHER FLEECE

GALAHS - Red-Breasted Cockatoos

2016-07-04T15:55:00.000+10:00

Other Common Names:
Rose-breasted Cockatoo and the Rose Cockatoo

Galahs are gorgeous, gregarious birds native to Australia and the South Pacific Islands. Galahs are found across the entire continent of Australia, other than in arid regions. Galahs live in large flocks in timbered habitats that have an ample water source.

Galahs (or Red-breasted Cockatoos) have a rosy-pink head with a lighter pink crest. The deeper pink is also seen on the neck, underparts and under-tail. They have a grey back and wings, with a whitish edge. Soft light pink feathers also grace the tip of the tail. Galahs have pearlish-white, hooked beaks.

The Galah can be considered a medium sized bird with its’ body length being approximately 35 cm (14 inches) and with a weight of between 300 – 400 grams (0.7 – 0.8 pounds).

Male Galahs have a wingspan of 26 to 28 cms (14 inches) and females 25 – 28 cms (9.8 – 11 inches).

The average lifespan of a Galah is between 50 and 80 years, so this must be taken into consideration if/when looking to purchase one as a pet.

Galahs are intelligent, acrobatic, affection and entertaining birds and seem to have all the intrinsic qualities that make them ideal family pets. Galahs enjoy human contact and love to spend time playing with their owners. Galahs form very strong bonds with their owners and enjoy physical contact such as scratching under the wings, just behind their crests and under their beaks.

Galahs thrive on attention but also enjoy keeping themselves amused with toys and puzzles. Galahs are easy to train, needing only time, patience and love in order to achieve amazing feats. They can be trained to mimic human speech and whistling amongst other sounds and noises. Galahs can be trained to ‘talk’, picking up words and whole phrases. Male Galahs seem to learn to mimic a little sooner, a little easier and a little more fluently than their female counterparts.

Galahs often take favourably to all members of the family making them ideal to have around the house. Keep in mind though that these quirky birds get bored easily so must be kept entertained. Supply your Galah with ample, colourful toys made of wood and robust, non-toxic materials in order to keep their busy minds entertained.

Galahs emit a high pitched screech in the wild, communicating from bird to bird. They are very socially active birds and can become a screeching mob when a flock flies overhead or lands. When kept as pets Galahs tend to be much quieter, possibly only screeching at dawn and dusk, and in response to hearing other birds singing outside (or inside ie. another pet bird)

In the wild Galahs fly in huge flocks and are very vocal, shrieking and calling out while performing aerial feats. They swerve and swoop, duck and spiral, matching their quirky, cheeky personalities. Being a flock bird, Galahs crave and need company.

Australians use the term ‘Galah’ as slang to call someone a fool, clown or a joker. These birds reflect that description perfectly as they are energetic, active, precocious and raucous in personality.

Galahs are quirky, curious birds ...

What to feed Galahs (Red-breasted Cockatoos)

FOOD FOR GALAHS

In the wild, Galahs feed mostly on the ground and their diet would include seeds of grasses and cultivated crops. In some areas of Australia, Galahs are considered an agricultural pest. They’ve been known to travel great distances to find palatable food sources.

An ideal diet for your pet Galah includes a mix of:

*Green shoots *leaf buds *roots *insects and their larvae *wheat *hulled oats *striped sunflower seeds *millet *sprouted seeds *cooked brown rice *grains *rice *wheat * pasta *green peas *broccoli *spinach *celery *zucchini *tomatoes *cucumbers *cabbage *cooked white potato *red and green capsicum *cauliflower *cooked sweet potato *cooked yams *butternut and acorn squash *carrots *pumpkin *dandelion greens *mustard greens *beet greens *small amounts of corn *passionfruit *berries *oranges *apples *cherries *cantaloupe *strawberries *peaches *nectarines *apricots *pears *bananas *plums *mango *figs *pomegranates *kiwi fruit

Foods to Avoid

*Iceberg lettuce *caffeine *avocado *parley *black sunflower seeds

Keep fresh water plentiful.

Galahs are known to over-eat, particularly if bored, so keep a check on their weight.

Supplements

Vitamin and mineral supplements can be added to the Galah’s feed and/or water, particularly if the Galah’s diet consists predominantly of seed only.

Provide your pet Galah with a cuttlebone/cuttlefish and/or mineral block as this keeps the Galah’s beak trimmed to prevent beak over-growth, and at the same time provides the bird with calcium.

Housing Your Galah - Red-breasted cockatoo cage

Housing

Galahs feel most comfortable in well kept and maintained enclosures. When keeping a Galah as a pet ensure that its’ cage is adequate for optimum well-being. It needs to be practical and comfortable and as large as you can possibly make it. Make sure there is enough room to house toys, perches, water and feed containers. Galahs love to move around and spread their wings. Ensure the cage is light and airy and kept clean with litter removed daily.

Place feed and water containers away from areas where the bird is likely to do its’ droppings (ie. under perches) and change water regularly; twice a day being ideal.

Keep fresh foods such as green vegetables and fruit separate from dry foods such as seeds and grains.

Galahs are very social birds and are able to be housed with other parrots.

Galahs are comfortable at the same temperature that humans are, although they do not adapt to temperature fluctuations as well as we do. In captivity, try to keep the temperature at around 27 to 32 C (80 – 90 F).

Galahs enjoy their freedom and like to spend stretches of time out of their cages.

Toys

If a Galah becomes bored it will start pulling out and mutilating their feathers. Therefore a variety of toys needs to be introduced into the Galah’s cage.

Toys for the Galah are best robust and strong as their smallish beaks are very powerful and sharp.

Colourful hanging and foot toys and knotted ropes are ideal. Rotate different toys to keep the Galah inquisitive and entertained.

Galahs love to swing and hang upside down, so if room allows, place a swing in the Galah’s cage.

With enough toys in their cage to keep them amused, Galahs are happy to spend time alone. They are quite independent birds and generally have a happy disposition.

A cuttlefish and/or mineral block should be placed in the cage in order for the Galah to receive calcium as well as keeps their beaks trimmed.

Perches

Perches not only give your birds exercise, but allow birds to easily move around. Ensure that there are at least two perches at different heights. Make sure that perches are placed in such a way that droppings and the bird’s feathers and tail do not fall into or come into contact with their drinking and bathwater containers.

Bathing

Allowing a Galah to bathe is essential. Birds living in the wild live with weather conditions such as rain, which facilitates the natural bathing of feathers.

Birds kept indoors are exposed to artificial conditions and the atmosphere inside is generally drier compared to outside. Regular bathing ensure that feathers are kept clean.

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Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Cockatoos - All about Sulphur Crested Cockatoos

2016-07-04T15:46:00.002+10:00

Cocky, White Cockatoo, Great Sulphur Crested Cockatoo

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are an Australian native bird which can readily be seen throughout Australia, sometimes in huge flocks of hundreds, much to the chagrin of grain and wheat farmers. Sulphur Crested Cockatoos live in dry forests, mangroves, bushlands, rain forests and the ‘outback’ of Australia. The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo also inhabits the South Pacific, The Philippines, New Guinea, Indonesia and New Zealand.

The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo is a member of the Psittacidoae parrot family. As its’ name suggests, the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo is a pure white bird with a prominent, vibrant yellow crest which it is able to move in response to its emotions. It also has yellow feathers on the under-side of the wings and around the eyes.

The Cockatoo can be considered a rather large bird with a body length from between 45 to 50 cms (17 to 20 inches). The adult male generally weighs from 815 to 920 grams (1.7 to 2 pounds) and the adult female bird from 845 to 975 grams (1 to 2 pounds).

The Cockatoo has a very powerful beak which is large, curved and pointed downwards, and is strong enough to crack open nuts and kernels. Its’ beak is dark grey to black, sometimes with white lines or flecks.

The sex of a Cockatoo is difficult to distinguish, particularly when they are young as they are virtually identical other than the colours of their eyes. The adult female has a slightly lighter reddish-brown iris, and the male adult has an all-black or very dark brown iris.

The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo has an extremely long life-span with some living for 80 years or more. Most live between 40 to 70 years so a long-term commitment is necessary if considering one as a pet.

In the wild the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo inhabit the same place all year round. They live in heavily-treed areas, sometimes very close to human settlements. They are known to be destructive though, damaging and destroying wood on verandahs, fences and whatever else they take a fancy to. Their powerful beaks are quick to deface and destroy at will. (Many people have made the mistake of luring in and feeding wild Cockies on their balconies, verandahs and outdoor areas, only to find in time that if the growing population of Cockatoos are not fed regularly or on demand they’ll protest loudly whilst destroying any/all wooden structures, including the house if made of wood - a mistake I made many years ago!)

Cockatoos have become much loved pets – although anyone who has ever owned one of these majestic and quirky birds will know that Cockatoos are much more than just pets. They are intelligent companions who are inquisitive and affectionate, and have quite distinct, unique personalities. Cockatoos are an endless source of entertainment and amusement for their owners, their family and visitors. Having a Cockatoo in the family can be a very rewarding experience as Cockies enjoy spending time with their humans.

Cockatoos are affectionate, friendly, funny and endearing. They love a scratch and generally all pet cockatoos appreciate a cuddle and enjoy being held. The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo needs lots of attention and crave time with their owner (although most often they seem to assume that they are the owner). They form exceptionally strong bonds with their owners and express genuine love, joy and devotion to them. Cockatoos can be extremely affectionate towards those they like - but if they have an aversion to someone – Look Out! Cockatoos are not necessarily a ‘one person’ pet, although some can show a preference for some people over others. And this can change on a whim.

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are easy to train and most prove to be enthusiastic students who pick up new tricks quickly and thoroughly. Time training, patience, unconditional love and practice are required.

Many Cockatoos are able to mimic fluently and are easy to teach to ‘talk’, whether it be single words or whole phrases. They are also able to mimic human whistling, other birds, inanimate sounds such as a door chime or closing door, music and even other animals such as dogs and cats (depending upon recurrent sounds the bird is surrounded by). Many are quick to learn to bob up and down and ‘dance’, flapping their wings and ‘singing’ along to music.

Cockatoos can be a great source of delight when happy, healthy and well behaved. But if a Cockatoo is neglected or raised without the required attention and training it can prove to be a bit of a disaster for all involved. They can be destructive, noisy, disruptive and aggressive. Cockatoos can be gregarious and noisy creatures who demand your attention (and that of the neighbourhood) with their high pitched screeching, particularly when distressed.

Cockatoos enjoy their freedom and prefer to spend the majority of their time out of their cage or enclosure. The Cockatoo, being an extremely intelligent bird, needs interaction, stimulation and entertainment and like to keep themselves active, otherwise they will become bored easily and may resort to feather-plucking or picking.

Feeding and Housing a pet Cockatoo

FOOD FOR COCKATOOS

An ideal diet for your pet Sulphur Crested Cockatoo includes a mix of:

*seeds *vegetables *roots *natural grasses *fresh fruits *hard-boiled eggs *grated cheese *green peas *broccoli *cauliflower *red and green capsicums *spinach *celery *zucchini *tomatoes *cucumbers *cooked white potatoes *small amounts of corn *berries *nuts *cooked legumes *yellow vegetables *fresh pellets

Foods to Avoid

*Iceberg lettuce *cabbage *caffeine *avocado *parsley *sunflower seeds

Supplements

Supplements can be added to the bird’s feed and/or water, particularly if the Cockatoo’s diet consists predominantly of seed only.

Provide your pet Cocky with a cuttlebone/cuttlefish or mineral block as this will keep the beak trimmed to prevent beak over-growth and at the same time provides much needed calcium.

Keep fresh water plentiful.

Housing

Cockatoos feel most comfortable in a well-cleaned and maintained enclosure. This entails the cleaning of water and feed bowls and containers, the wiping down of perches and toys, and litter trays or floor coverings removed and changed.

Cockatoos are very active and need a cage or aviary large enough to easily move around and spread their wings. It should be large enough to hold perches, toys, feed and water dishes, and possibly even a bird bath.

The cage or aviary should be placed in a bright area as Cockatoos need light and fresh air - but keep them protected from direct sunlight where they are unable to find adequate shade. Keep them away from cold draughts and high winds.

Perches

Perches are an important and essential part of the Cockatoo’s cage and there should be at least two suitably sized perches enabling the Cocky to easily move around at will.

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos require perches at different levels, preferably placed below eye level. Ensure that the perches are made of different materials and widths as this will help exercise the bird’s feet and keep the talon-like nails trimmed.

Make sure that perches are placed such that droppings and the bird’s feathers and tail do NOT fall into or come into contact with their drinking water and bathwater containers.

Toys

As Cockatoos need to entertain and amuse their inquisitive and intelligent minds, ensure that you provide your Cocky with an assortment of strong, robust toys. Fill its’ cage or aviary with toys and puzzles that it can dismantle. Colours are also important as they keep the bird engaged and interested.

Cockatoos tend to chew so ensure that you have plenty of wooden toys or even plain pieced of wood inside the enclosure.

Bathing

Allowing a Cockatoo to bathe is essential. Birds in the wild are in their natural surrounds and live with weather conditions such as rain which facilitates natural bathing of the feathers.

Birds kept indoors are exposed to artificial conditions and the atmosphere is generally drier compared to outside in the wild. Regular bathing is a must to ensure that feathers are kept clean and the Cockatoo’s body free from ‘dander’. (Dander is a white, powdery substance on the Cocky’s skin.)

Some Cockatoos are partial to a shower where they are able to spread their wings and crest under the running water. Other prefer a bath where they are able to dunk themselves at leisure.

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Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Guardian Dogs Livestock Protectors

2016-07-04T15:35:00.000+10:00

LIVESTOCK PROTECTORS - GUARDIAN DOGS

A guardian dog watches over livestock such as sheep, ducks, chickens and turkeys and the like, to protect them from predators. The breeds, training and management of guardian dogs is very different to the dogs used to guard homes and properties.

If you are considering buying a guardian dog you need to consider such things as the size of your property, the number of livestock and animals you have (or intend to have), the topography of your property and the likely number and type of predators in the area.

Each and every property is different and livestock needs also vary. A good Maremma guardian dog will look after a flock of 100 to 1000 sheep or chickens, depending upon the property. It is always best to ask the advice of a farmer with a successful guardian dog, then test your dog on a small number of animals. If the trial is successful you can expand it to cover all of your livestock.

Over the centuries there have been a number of dogs that have been bred for their ability to guard livestock. These breeds include the Maremma, the Anatolian Shepherd, the Central Asian Ovacharka and the Pyrenean Mountain dog. In Australia, the Maremma is the most common and popular guardian dog.

Once you have settled on the breed of your choice you must consider the age of the animal. You are able to buy a pre-trained dog from one to three years of age, or a pup from eight weeks of age. This is ideal if you wish your guardian dog to bond with your animals while they are young. At about a year old you can expect your guardian dog to be effective.

Ensure that the guardian dog is a full-blood guardian breed or a cross of two breeds to ensure the long-term success of your dog.

Guardian dogs generally live in the paddock with the livestock, full-time. Obviously they do not eat grass like most of the animals they guard, so require health care and treatment just like any other dog. They need appropriate food for their age and are able to be trained to eat from a self-feeder that dispenses dry dog food. This reduces the need to visit the paddock so frequently. Your guardian dog should be regularly wormed and vaccinated according to your vet’s recommendation, and de-sexed if you do not wish to breed with it.

Guardian dogs will also need to be protected from ticks if you live in a problem area, and need to be checked and treated for fleas and other parasites, just like any other dog.

Guardian dogs will most likely come into contact with wild dogs, wombats and other animals, so may come into contact with diseases such as mange and/or scabies. Breeds such as the Maremma may require the hair clipped from their feet in order to reduce grass-seed problems. In general though, guardian dogs will live long healthy lives in the paddocks amongst the livestock.

Just like other dogs, your guardian dog needs proper care and feeding, and in return they will give many years of faithful service.

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Joanne
Sacred Scribes

GRASS SEEDS and DOGS

2016-07-04T15:28:00.003+10:00

Running around paddocks can be great fun for your dog (or dogs), but during the summer months it can cause stress, pain and misery for your dog.

Grass seeds can lodge in the dog’s skin on all parts of the body, which causes painful problems such as abscesses and infections.

There are a number of common weeds that produce seeds that cause problems for dogs, including ‘barley grass’ and ‘corkscrew’, amongst others. Corkscrew grass is so named for its curly shapes, whilst barley grass seed is shaped like an arrow head. The shape of the grass seed allows them to penetrate the skin, then move underneath the skin. This means that the grass seeds can end up anywhere in the dog’s body.

Most commonly, the grass seeds will become infected and form an abscess under the skin, which may appear as a lump. Grass seeds commonly lodge in areas such as the feet, under the tail, between the toes, in the ears, eyes and genital areas. With dogs that have shaggy coats, grass seeds can lodge anywhere on the body.

When a grass seed is lodged beneath the dog’s skin it will most likely lick or bite the area where the grass seed entered and is lodged, and most often they break the skin leading to further infection.

Once your dog has a grass seed lodged under the skin it is important that you take it to your vet as it is crucial that the seed be removed.

Over the summer months, to prevent grass seeds becoming lodged in your dog’s skin, groom your dog at least every few days in order to remove any seeds that may be stuck in its coat. This is particularly important for long-coated breeds.

Check between your dog’s toes for grass seeds. A quick check at feeding time may prevent a painful abscess and subsequent vet visit and bill.

If your dog suffers frequently from grass seed problems it may be worth clipping all the fur off their feet during the summer months.

Another alternative is to buy seed-proof ‘booties’ for your dog to wear when out in the paddocks.

One way of combating the occurrence of grass seeds lodging in your dog’s skin is by reducing the number of grass seeds on your property. They can be mowed, slashed, grazed out or even poisoned prior to the grass going to seed. It is also worthwhile to keep your dog away from grassy areas during the seeding times.

Dealing with and preventing grass seeds from lodging in your dog’s coat and skin will reduce pain for your animal and the inconvenience (and cost) of frequent visits to the vet.

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Joanne
Sacred Scribes

What Happens To Our Pets When They Die?

2016-07-04T15:22:00.001+10:00

Many people are curious to know what happens to our pets when they die. Just like humans, the souls of our pets do not ‘die’. Their spirits often stay with us following their ‘physical’ death, but their spirits remain to provide us with the same companionship and love as they did when alive.

As humans we are often not able to consciously perceive their presence – but on a soul level we intuitively know when our deceased cat, dog, bird etc are around us.
So what happens to our pets when they die?

Animals are alive and well on the ‘Other Side’. All the animals that exist on earth, exist on ‘The Other Side’ – without fear or aggression – and they are appropriately cherished and respected as the pure, innocent spiritual creatures that they are.

The animals on the ‘Other Side’ include every pet we’ve had in this and all of our past lives, and they watch over us with the same pure, steadfast loyalty and unconditional love that they gave during their lifetime with us. When we first arrive on the ‘Other Side’, our Spirit Guides and transcended loved ones can hardly get to us through all the animals joyfully waiting to welcome us ‘Home’.

Most of us can recall the smell or softness of our pet’s fur, and/or its distinctive sound or personality. After the death of a pet many people are convinced that they are able to see, hear or sense their pet, even if only fleetingly.

Have you ever walked into a room and got the feeling that someone was standing in the corner or sitting on a particular chair – so you turn and look and you still feel it – but there is ‘no one’ there? Sometimes a surviving family pet may stare intently at a corner of a room and wag their tail or purr, indicating that they can sense the presence of their passed over friend.

On a personal note, I have been visited by a few of my passed-over pets through the years, and have felt a sense of love and peace when they have been around. I still often catch a glimpse of my pure white cat ‘Mange’ around my garden and inside the house in her favourite spots. ‘Daisy’, a young Jack Russell terrier I had many years ago, occasionally pays a visit as well.

When an animal’s body dies they are still contactable. Their physical body may have died, but their spirit is alive and well. Once our pet has passed over they often miss the physical contact with their human/owner, the hugs and stroking, the warmth, love and closeness with their owners and so on.

They can also become quite upset when they see their human/owner upset by their grief and loss. They know of no way to comfort their owner as the owner can’t hear or see them. They can be right next to them and their human/owner doesn’t realize it.

Some passed over pets and animals take over new bodies and begin a new incarnation. When they have done this they are influenced by this new body and all it encompasses – it’s hunger and habits, its growing sensations and instincts, its sleepiness, its ‘newness’ at being so young again, and the personality of their new owners. They are called by a different name, are living in a new house with new smells, new humans to interact with and a new life in every way.

Despite entering into a new life, they are always accessible as it is their soul or spirit that is able to be contacted.

So what happens to our pets when they die and where do they go?

They can be in between bodies (or incarnations), hanging out by a rock or tree or lazing in their favourite chair. They can have new bodies and new lives. They could be your next door neighbour’s new kitten or a newborn lion in Africa, or they could even be the new puppy or kitten you introduce into the family. They may even be languishing in ‘heaven’, waiting for their owner’s arrival on the ‘Other Side’ or at the ‘Rainbow Bridge’.

When researching the topic of what happens to our pets when they die, the following anonymous passage kept presenting to me repeatedly. Therefore, (although not wishing to breach any copy laws) I feel it important to repeat it here. Unfortunately I am unable to credit the original source.

The RAINBOW BRIDGE

Just this side of heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge.

When an animal dies that has been especially close to someone here, that pet goes to the Rainbow Bridge. There are meadows and hills for all our special friends so they can run and play together. There is plenty of food, water, and sunshine and our friends are warm and comfortable.

All the animals who have been ill and old are restored to health and vigour; those who were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by.

The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing; they each miss someone very special to them, who had to be left behind.

They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and looks into the distance. His bright eyes are intent; his eager body begins to quiver. Suddenly, he begins to run from the group, flying over the green grass, his legs carrying him faster and faster.

You have been spotted, and when you and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous reunion, never to be parted again.

The happy kisses rain upon your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone from your life but never absent from your heart.

Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together…

- unknown author

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The concept of the ‘Rainbow Bridge’ is a way of expressing the everlasting bond of love between pets and humans and through research, intuition and personal experience, we are able to know what happens to our pets when they die.

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Joanne
Sacred Scribes

AROMATHERAPY FOR DOGS

2016-07-04T15:02:00.000+10:00

Essential Oils for Dogs

In the same way as they do with humans, essential oils work on both a physical and emotional level in dogs. Like humans, dogs have an olfactory system, which means that for physical ailments, application of oils through massage is effective, while for emotional problems, dogs can obtain the benefits through inhaling essential oils.

In the case of physical ailments, the essential oils are diluted into a cream or carrier oil base and massaged into the affected area. The essential oil molecules find their way into the body via the hair follicles and blood stream. In the case of emotional problems, inhalations are used and receptors are activated which help the body to relax or be stimulated, depending upon the requirement.

DOG BATHS
To make an effective dog shampoo, use a good quality shampoo base and add essential oils such as Lemongrass, Thyme, Cedarwood and Citronella. These will help deter fleas and parasites and leave your dog’s coat smelling divine.

Use approximately 30 drops of essential oil in total to 100ml of shampoo base.

SKIN IRRITATIONS
For skin irritations of all kinds, bathe the affected area with Lavender water, then apply the soothing oil blend. Apply twice daily until the irritation heals.

SOOTHING OIL RECIPE
Bathe the area first with Lavender water, and then apply twice daily.

6 drops of Lavender

2 drops of Neroli

3 drops of Chamomile

30m of carrier oil

SCRATCHES AND BATTLE WOUNDS
To bathe an area affected by scratches and battle wounds, use a combination of Thyme and Tea Tree oils diluted in water. The Thyme gives a more intense ‘anti-everything’ benefit. Because they are natural antibiotics and disinfectants, the essential oils help to clean the wound – and as with cats, if the dog licks it’s wounds afterwards it won’t harm them.

The bathing is an important part of assisting the healing, as it is difficult to cover a wound with a dressing. Once the affected area is clean Lavender oil can be applied neat to aid healing.

INFECTIONS
If your dog has an infection of any kind, think about treating the bedding where they sleep. It is as easy as adding 10 drops of Eucalyptus oil to 1 litre of warm water, giving the bedding a good scrub and soak, then allowing it to hand out to dry. Another method is to give the dog’s bedding and sleeping area a good daily spray of an anti-bacterial/anti-viral spray.

50 drops of Tea Tree oil

20 drops of Eucalyptus oil

20 drops of Thyme

90 drops of essential oil stabilizer

100 ml spray bottle of water

ARTHRITIS
Arthritis in the back legs and hips can trouble many dogs as they age. As with humans, taking essential fatty acids internally can also help dogs, as they work as an anti-inflammatory and help relieve arthritic symptoms. Dogs enjoy the taste of fish oil capsules and they are easily added into their meals.

Analgesic essential oils such as Eucalyptus, Rosemary and Ginger, and anti-inflammatory oils such as Lavender and Chamomile will give relief.

Massage into the affected area once or twice daily.

3 drops of Rosemary

2 drops of Lavender

2 drops of Eucalyptus

4 drops of Chamomile

4 drops of Ginger

30ml of carrier oil

DOG COLDS
Dogs can suffer from coughs and colds just like humans do. The best essential oils to treat them are Cajeput, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus. Add 2 drops of each essential oil to 30ml of vegetable oil and massage over the dog’s chest, two or three times per day. If you are concerned about the dog having an oily coat, use these same oils but make a spritzer instead.

2 drops of Cajeput

2 drops of Tea Tree

2 drops of Eucalyptus

30ml of vegetable carrier oil

FLEAS
Fleas can cause a great deal of grief for dogs when it comes to skin irritations. When making a flea collar for dogs you can add the oil blend to their brush and give their coat a good brushing. This can be done every day if the fleas are particularly bad

2 drops of Tea Tree

3 drops of Citronella

2 drops of Thyme

3 drops of Lavender

1 Garlic capsule

This blend can be rubbed into a leather or fabric collar as frequently as needed. Adding a garlic capsule to the dog’s food every day will also help to keep fleas at bay.

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Essential oils can easily be used at home and are of great benefit to both animals and the humans who love them.

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Joanne
Sacred Scribes

AROMATHERAPY FOR HORSES

2016-07-04T14:54:00.000+10:00

Healthy Horses - Essential Oils for Horses

In the same way as with humans, essentials oils work on both a physical and emotional level in horses. Like humans, horses have an olfactory system, which means that for physical ailments, applications of oils through massage is effective, while for emotional problems horses can obtain the benefits through inhaling essential oils.

In the case of physical ailments, the essential oils are diluted into a cream or carrier oil base and massaged into the affected area/s. The essential oil molecules find their way into the body via the hair follicles and blood stream. In the case of emotional problems, inhalants are used and receptors are activated which help the body to relax or be stimulated, depending upon the requirement.

If your horse is competing at an elite level care must be taken with the use of essential oils as some will produce positive drug test results. Essential oils such as Eucalyptus, Peppermint and Rosemary are prohibited by many show horse associations. Most essential oils will be metabolised via the urinary system within a week, although some heavier resin-based oils can take longer.

APPLICATION OF AROMATHERAPY TO HORSES

Test any blends you want to use on a small areas on the inside of the horse’s elbow before complete application. If itching or redness occurs, dilute the blend further. A horse’s skin is much more sensitive than human’s, so never apply essential oils undiluted to the skin. If your horse has a reaction to any oils bathe the area with vegetable oil or milk to reduce the irritation. Do not use water as it can increase the chance of a reaction. Use a 3% dilution, which is the same as recommended for use on adult humans. Do not be mistaken into assuming that more oil is necessary because horses are so much bigger than humans, as increasing the dosage will not make a more effective blend – in fact, all you will achieve is to increase the chance of a negative reaction.

When using aromatherapy and essential oils with horses, use common sense. Do not use essential oils on any ailments that you have not had looked at by your veterinarian. Many vets today are open to the use of complimentary therapies.

*Essential oils are best administered under the guidance of an accredited aromatherapist.

DETERMINING WHICH OILS YOUR HORSE LIKES

Just as we humans are drawn to the oils we need by our sense of smell and our emotions, so too are horses. A horse will show a preference for a particular essential oil. It will also let you know when it doesn’t like a particular oil – watch their eyes and body language. It is very easy to read what is going on by your horse’s reaction.

Ask your horse to show you which one it wants and needs.

This is best done at a quiet time of day, preferably not right before or after a feed. Open the bottle of oil and hold it in your hand about eight inches from your horse’s nostrils. Give the horse enough room to move toward or away from the oils. Watch for reactions that tell you whether the horse likes the oil or not. As you know your horse well, you will know what signals to look for.

A POSITIVE REACTION TO THE OIL

When a horse is interested in an oil it will smell the oil intently for a long time. Generally the lip will curl and the horse will follow the aroma around or try to nibble at the bottle.

Use these oils once or twice per day.

THE ‘MAYBE INTERESTED’ REACTION TO THE OIL

The horse has a sniff, checks it out, has a look around an comes back to the bottle. Their ears might be forward and their nostrils slightly flared, but they are not totally focused on the oil. Use these oils once per day.

A NEGATIVE REACTION TO THE OIL

The ‘I’m not interested’ look is when the horse turns away from the aroma and does not want to play. Do NOT use this oil at this time.

Horses will generally need oils for between one and two weeks. You will be able to judge from their reactions when they are no longer needed.

*

It is a challenge to give specific recipes for horses. Whether looking to address a physical or emotional challenge, it is recommended that you follow the same guidelines used as for creating blends for humans.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Bach Flower Remedies for Animals and Pets

2016-07-04T14:44:00.002+10:00

Natural Healing Remedies for Pets and Animals - Bach Flowers

Dr Edward Bach (1886 – 1936) was a British medical consultant, homeopath and bacteriologist who developed a natural medicine based on plant and flower essences.

AGRIMONY
Agrimony is excellent for dogs that act as guides or assistants, animals in the rescue services where they may become exhausted or stressed, but show no outward signs.

Agrimony is helpful for any creatures with skin irritations and those out of their natural habitat that find it hard to settle.

Agrimony is also excellent for horses.

ASPEN
The Aspen essence calms very highly-strung creatures of all kinds and pets during storms. Aspen relieves pets that are anxious in new surroundings (eg. after a house move).

Aspen is useful for animals and birds that find it hard to sleep or rest.

BEECH
Beech is effective to use for snappy, irritable creatures that are unreliable with children and other animals, especially young ones.

Beech is great for horses that are unfriendly to new or novice riders and/or handlers.

Beech is good to use to cure the constant yappers, yowlers, howlers and screechers of the bird and animal kingdom.

Beech is good for stabilizing an animal or birds appetite.

CENTAURY
Centaury is used to ease anxieties in troubled or bullied animals, and for all creatures that spend a lot of their time confined (eg. a stabled horse or caged bird)

Centaury prevents pets from becoming over-sensitive to their owner’s moods. It is also beneficial for the pregnant and/or nursing female animals, and gives strength during a long labour.

Centaury assists animals during a long illness, and is excellent for a creature who has given up his will to fight for itself.

CERATO
Cerato is effective for all animals that need to be trained (or re-trained), whether for obedience, show purposes, birds of prey in controlled flight or for those animals that work to assist humans.

Cerato helps an animal to remain loyal to its owner/s, and if sprinkled around entrances, it prevents animals from straying or becoming lost.

Cerato is good for cats that do not have a well-developed homing instincts.

CHERRY PLUM
Cherry Plum is an excellent remedy for highly-strung or temperamental animals, notably horses that bite, kick or panic in traffic. Cherry Plum reduces sensitivity to loud noises or traffic.

Cherry Plum minimizes destructive behaviour with indoor creatures, such as feather-plucking, chewing and scratching on furniture.

Cherry Plum is excellent to give to male animals when breeding to stop aggressive behaviour and females on heat to prevent them from rejecting a mate.

CHESTNUT BUD
Chestnut Bud is an essence to use for re-training if bad habits develop in a pet. It teaches animals physical boundaries (eg. dogs to return when called). It is also useful for establishing emotional boundaries, such as not attacking other animals or jumping up on people.

Chestnut Bud essence makes a large, clumsy animal more aware of obstacles, especially in confined spaces.

CHICORY
Chicory is soothing for over-possessive animals that constantly demand attention, and reduces jealousy of other family members.

Chicory also helps when an animal insists on sleeping with owners, and for constant barking, howling or screeching when owners go out or away.

CRAB APPLE
Crab Apple is useful for animals that become obsessive about food or cleaning and/or preening themselves. It is also helpful for removing the pollutants and noise that can adversely affect creatures in the modern world.

Crab Apple is excellent for rescue animals to help them relax.

HOLLY
Holly is useful for reducing jealousy and/or resentment of new family members, whether it be another animal, a partner or new baby.

Holly makes irritable, aggressive creatures more tolerant of others.

HONEYSUCKLE
The Honeysuckle essence is very helpful for an animal that has lost its mate, or if a family member has gone away permanently or has died.

Sprinkle diluted Honeysuckle essence around the bed of a young animal that has been newly separated from its mother and/or siblings.

IMPATIENS
Impatiens is a good remedy for creatures that become easily irritated by other animals. It is effective for reducing confrontations in aviaries or in shared, small animal enclosures.

Impatiens makes animals more receptive to training, especially in communal obedience classes.

Impatiens is excellent for assistance animals if they show signs of overwork.

MIMULUS
Mimulus helps animals to overcome fears of specific noises or places.

Mimulus is helpful for small animals that have been roughly handled by children or a previous owner.

Mimulus is good for horses who are easily startled.

OAK
Oak is an excellent essence to induce patience in a creature that is temporarily immobilized because of an illness or injury.

Oak assists large animals (especially horses) to pace themselves.

Oak is also known to strengthen ‘helper’ animals, such as guide and rescue dogs.

OLIVE
Olive essence is used to aid recovery in an animal worn out by a long illness or treatment, or one that accidentally strayed and had to fend for itself.

Olive is also useful for animals that have lost a mate, or suffered a family break up or loss.

ROCK ROSE
Rock Rose is the essence to use for all very small or timid creatures. Rock Rose will help accustom them to being handled by humans.

It is soothing for any highly-strung animals, or when a bird or pet has been injured or frightened.

STAR OF BETHLEHEM
Star of Bethlehem is an essence of ‘reassurance’. If you must leave a pet for an extended amount of time (eg, holiday or business trip), Star of Bethlehem should be sprayed around the home 24 to 48 hours prior to departure.

Star of Bethlehem can be given to a pet or bid that needs to stay overnight away from its owner (eg. vets, boarding kennel, cattery etc). Star of Bethlehem is the essence to use after a house move, as it helps a pet to settle in.

SWEET CHESTNUT
Sweet Chestnut is effective to use for pets who become withdrawn or depressed. Sweet Chestnut also restores a lost appetite and enthusiasm. It is excellent for any abused or neglected animals and helps to allow trust to grow (or re-grow).

VERVAIN
The Vervain essence soothes hyperactive and restless animals, especially those subject to a great deal of stress. Vervain also slows down pets that are constantly jumping up and demanding human attention.

WALNUT
Walnut is known as the remedy of ‘change’. It is useful for animals and birds (and humans) as it assists in acceptance of change in the environment or the people around the animal.

Walnut is also good for re-training and breaking bad habits.

*

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Herbs and Herbal Remedies for Animals

2016-07-04T13:54:00.001+10:00

Natural Healing - Natural Remedies

Cautionaries:

* Always read labels for correct dosage.

* Some herbs are unsuitable for pregnant animals or nursing mothers. (eg. Aloe Vera, Angelica, Anise, Barberry, Basil, Bay, Black Cohosh, Caraway, Cayenne, Elder, Fennel, Feverfew, Golden seal, Hyssop, Juniper, Male Fern, Mandrake, Parsley, Pennyroyal, rosemary, Root, Rue, Sage, Southernwood, Tansy, Tarragon, Thuja, Thyme, Wintergreen, Wormwood and Yarrow.)

MOST FREQUENTLY USED HERBS

ALFALFA

Internally:
Alfalfa is a great source of vitamins and minerals. It helps the liver and kidneys, it relieves rheumatism, arthritis and allergies.

Alfalfa is a great detoxifier for birds, both pet and wild. Alfalfa restores the appetite in convalescing or chronically ill pets. It is also known to improve breath freshness.

ALOE VERA

Internally:
Aloe Vera is good for arthritis, allergies, digestive disorders and fur balls in the stomach, yeast infections and liver and kidney imbalances.

Use in powdered from with cats.
Externally:

Aloe Vera gel relieves minor burns, skin rashes and wounds. It also relieves skin irritation in birds that pluck their own feathers.

ARNICA

Externally:
Infused Arnica oil, or as a liniment, is excellent for broken bones, strains, sprains and bruises. It is also beneficial for shock and superficial cuts in larger animals, especially horses. Arnica is good to use as a pain reliever or arthritis.

BEE POLLEN

Internally:
Given regularly, Bee Pollen is believed to keep an animal ‘young’ and to keep hormones balances, and to soothe allergies and digestion.

Bee Pollen increases the self-healing powers of the body.

BLACK COHOSH

Internally:
Black Cohosh balances hormones and is good for promoting fertility in female animals. Black Cohosh helps with thyroid problems and helps fur to regrow. Black Cohosh is very healing for animals that have been spayed.

CATNIP

Internally:
Catnip is excellent for all animals with digestive disorders, colds, flus and fevers.

Externally:
Catnip encourages vitality and well-being in cats, when sprinkled around their favourite sitting and sleeping spots.

CHAMOMILE

Internally:
Chamomile is a very gentle herb and is wonderful for digestive disorders and internal parasite problems. Chamomile helps fight bacteria, colds and chest infections.

Chamomile is soothing against stress and calms birds that have been badly shocked or frightened.

Externally:
Chamomile can be used to treat skin problems, helps to prevent wound infections, relieves painful sores and improved the condition of fur.

COMFREY

Externally:
Comfrey is used as a poultice for injured and broken bones on horses. It is also excellent for use on all strains, scratches and sprains in all animals.

Warning: do not use on deep cuts as Comfrey encourages tissue growth which may form over the wound before it heals fully.

DANDLELION

Internally:
Dandelion is helpful for liver and digestive problems, anaemia and arthritis, bladder and kidney problems – especially in horses.

Dandelion is useful to alleviate fluid retention and to detoxify the animal’s system.

ECHINACEA

Internally:
Echinacea stimulates the immune system and helps animals and birds to fight infections and viruses, including colds and flu and also fights bacteria.

Echinacea is good for glands, to aid recovery after an illness or operation, and for the renewal of healthy tissue. Echinacea is useful for skin allergies in birds.

EYEBRIGHT

Externally:
Eyebright is good to use as an eyewash for all pets’ eye problems such as inflammation.

Eyebright is one of the best remedies for parrots with eye problems.

GARLIC

Internally:
Garlic is good for ridding internal parasites and protects the liver from damage caused by modern pollution.

Garlic is a natural anti-biotic that does not interfere with the body’s own natural bacteria in the digestive tract, and is also effective against viruses.

Garlic is excellent for keeping down fat levels.

GINGER

Internally:
In water, Ginger prevents travel sickness I pets and is good for digestive disorders.

Ginger is good to use with large birds.

GOLDEN SEAL

Internally:
Golden Seal, when mixed with Echinacea, counters infections.

Externally:
Golden Seal can be used as an antiseptic to cleanse wounds - often combined with Aloe Vera.

KELP (Seaweed)

Internally:
Kelp, in granule or powder form, is a great source of iodine that helps to keep the thyroid healthy, as well as alleviating problems with glands, the metabolism, teeth and fur. It is also excellent to use for digestive disorders.

Kelp is a natural anti-fungal and anti-viral. Kelp is good for maintaining pet health, including birds.

LAVENDER

Externally:
Lavender heads can be sprinkled rear bedding to deter fleas and ticks. Place Lavender oil or pots of Lavender near to where pets sleep to clam a stressed pet.

MILK THISTLE

Internally:
Milk Thistle helps with all liver problems. It is very safe for all pets, animals and birds.

Milk Thistle is excellent for restoring natural immunity and health after prolonged medical intervention.

MINT

Internally:
Fresh Mint in water or food prevents travel sickness in all animals other than cats, as they can sometimes have adverse reactions.

Mint is a natural digestive and breath freshener and is known to restore a lost appetite.

Externally:
Keep fresh Mint in the car with dogs or in a horse float when taking long trips.

NETTLE

Internally:
Nettle is an excellent diuretic, keeping bladder and kidney’s health.

Nettle also relieves anaemia, colds and allergies.

PARSLEY

Internally:
As a natural diuretic, Parsley is helpful for bladder and kidney problems. It is useful in reducing incontinence in older animals, for aiding digestion, and for freshening the breath.

Parsley contains a natural oestrogen and is excellent for breeding females (although it should not be given to pregnant animals).

Parsley is an excellent tonic for older, female animals.

Parsley boosts the body’s natural immunity.

RASPBERRY LEAF

Internally:
Raspberry Leaf helps pregnant animals and will stimulate milk production after the birth.

SLIPPERY ELM BARK

Internally:
Slippery Elm Bark relieves diarrhoea and sickness, and calms over-sensitive stomachs.

Slippery Elm Bark is good to use to ease coughs and congestion. It is also excellent as a nutrient for weak, elderly or chronically ill animals.

Externally:
Slippery Elm Bark is helpful for skin complaints, wounds, inflammations, abscesses and burns of the skin.

TEA TREE OIL

Externally:
A drop of Tea Tree Oil can be used on fungal infections such as ringworm. It is also useful on dry or patchy skin.

Tea Tree Oil is also an antiseptic, but it is best to keep it away from the genitals and the eyes.

Tea Tree can be used as pet toothpaste as it improves the health of teeth and gums.

THYME

Internally:
Thyme aids digestive disorders, colds, coughs and respiratory problems.

Thyme is a powerful antiseptic so it is useful to use on wounds that will not heal.

Thyme is especially useful for urban animals as it counteracts the affects of pollution.

YARROW

Internally:
Yarrow assists with bladder and liver problems, and internal bleeding. Under expert supervision, Yarrow is sometimes used for animals with diabetes.

Yarrow also relieves infections, fever and diarrhoea.

Externally:
Yarrow helps to heal wounds and stop them becoming infected and relieves skin irritations.

NATURAL PEST CONTROL

When it comes to alleviating parasites, herbs really come into their own. There are a number of pet-friendly methods you can use that will not upset children or sensitive adults in the home who may be allergic, or those who object to using chemicals. Herbal flea collars and pet washes are readily available, and easy to make yourself.

To make your own flea collar, add a few drops of Eucalyptus, Tea Tree and/or Lavender essential oil to the inside of a pet collar, on a weekly basis.

When bathing a pet, an herbal concoction can be added to the water to combat parasites. To about half a litre of boiled water, place a mixture of freshly chopped Rosemary, Pennyroyal and Lavender. Leave the herbs to steep for about 10 minutes or so. Strain and discard herbs. Add to a pet bath or apply to the fur and leave to dry naturally. As well as controlling the fleas, you will also have a lovely smelling pet.

This infusion can be stored for about a week in the refrigerator, in a sealed bottle.

Fleas detest the fragrances of Lavender, Tansy and Pennyroyal. Sprinkle these around pet beds and under furniture to deter them.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Animal Healing

2016-07-04T13:43:00.000+10:00

Healing With and For Animals

Traditional healing traditions and practices understand that the well-being of the whole person is crucial to physical health, and conventional medical practice is also beginning to recognize this link. Recent research suggests that pet owners are healthier than non-pet owners, visiting doctors less frequently, having fewer colds and headaches, lower heart rates, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. Having a pet reduces the chances of having and heart attack.

Some pets obviously derive pleasure from assisting their owners. If in pain of any kind, or you are feeling the ‘dark night of the soul’ descending, you are able to draw healing strength from you pets – dogs, cats, horses and rabbits are most receptive. A bird that remains still for long periods, can also give healing. Pets have great reserves of love that can be manifested as healing strength, and you will almost always sense their eagerness to help.

We can benefit from the healing power of animals. We can consciously, as well as unconsciously, learn to draw the healing strength and comfort we need in sad or lonely moments, from the unwavering affection and loyalty of our animals/pets.

There are many gifted animal healers and healing circles, but you can heal your own pets and animals. This can be achieved by using the strong channels of mutual love that already exists through which healing can be transmitted.

If you talk very quietly to your pet, you may intuitively understand the problem, and, by sending love and light, you can help alleviate the trauma and allow the animal’s blocked self-healing mechanisms to spring back into action.

Animal healing is often spontaneous. Our desire to make a sick or distressed animal feel better or to ease it’s pain is transmitted automatically into their bodies as we pat or stroke them gently, or talk softly in a soothing voice.

Pets can demonstrate amazing altruism and self-sacrifice towards other humans apart from their owners, which may go far beyond their own survival instincts.

If we open our hearts to our pets we will be rewarded many times over. We will receive the same response if we show our affection to animals that have been abandoned or neglected. It is merely a matter of becoming aware of these almost magical links for them to emerge spontaneously.

We have a number of tones of voice we use to our pets: affection, light-hearted, soothing and occasionally cross. But this ‘animal speak’ is closer to a chant and can be used for all forms of telepathic communication and suggestion. It is useful when you want to modify an animal’s behaviour or trigger self-healing in your pet, and re-awaken its sluggish immune system. You might like to try this method when you and the animal are relaxed.

All pets are valuable and vital to human happiness. Whether a dog, cat, budgie or horse, a pet brings unconditional love and understanding.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Animal Astrology

2016-07-04T13:33:00.005+10:00

Star Signs and Astrology For Pets and Animals

It is not too surprising that ‘Pet Astrology’ is becoming popular among pet owners who are eager to understand more about their pet’s personalities. Through Astrology it may be possible to predict a puppy’s, foal’s, or kitten’s needs, wants and compatibilities with a prospective owner, or the creatures with whom it will share a home or pen, by using its birth date and time to find the relevant Star (or Sun) sign. Some people even take birth signs into account for breeding purposes.

Pedigree animal’s Zodiac signs are easily identifiable because these animals come complete with a certificate, giving the date and possibly even the time of birth.

You can usually find out when a puppy, kitten, foal, bird or animal was born by asking the person who you get the pet from. Hopefully they will know the date or will at least be able to give you a fairly accurate date.

Alternatively, you can examine early individual vet records for immunizations and examinations as these are given at set stages of growth, from which you can work out an approximate birth date.

ARIES (21 March - 20 April)

Pets born under Aries are free spirits, totally without guile, independent (unless they want attention) energetic, competitive, and very determined to get or go their own way.

Although natural leaders of any other animals in the home, they will be very loyal to their owners.

Arian animals are fearless in protecting those they love. They are better with adults than children, and need to be kept stimulated.

With Arian animals, boundaries need to be established early in their lives.

TAURUS (21 April - 21 May)

Taurean pets are patient, reliable, practical, loyal and home-loving. They demand the most comfortable spot in the house or stable, the best brands of food and a lot of grooming, petting and attention.

Taurean pets can become very possessive about what they consider to be theirs. They are incredibly attached to their owners and their homes, and thrive on a regular routine. Taurean pets have a tendency to become overweight if left unchecked.

Taurean pets are tolerant with children and young animals, and also make good companions for older people.

GEMINI (22 May - 21 June)

The most intelligent of the zodiacal signs, Gemini pets are very vocal and love new challenges and adventures. They are natural clowns and crave constant attention.

Gemini animals are constantly on the go and even older animals will remain playful and active. Gemini pets need a great deal of exercise and stimulation, and are ideal with teenagers and with anyone with an active or sporting lifestyle.

CANCER (22 June - 22 July)

Cancerian pets are naturally home-loving and whether male or female, they are the ‘nurturers’ of the pet/animal world, taking care of smaller or weaker animals, babies, children and most of all, their owner’s.

Cancerian pets are extremely sensitive and intuitive, and will anticipate your mood before you are aware of it.

Generally, they do not enjoy holidays away from home or unfamiliar territory and are better left with a ‘sitter’ rather than a kennel or cattery.

Cancerian pets are happiest with owners who spend a great deal of time at home.

LEO (23 July - 23 August)

Leos are the noblest of pets even if they are a ‘mongrel’ or a mixed breed cat, horse or other animal, and are constantly grooming themselves. Leo pets love nothing better than competitions. As long as they are the leader, they will be kind to other animals.

Leos are among the most altruistic of pets and would lay down their lives to save their owners or anyone in need.

Because Leo pets need a lot of attention and praise, they are best with one owner as they sometimes find it difficult to share his or her affection, even with another human.

VIRGO (24 august - 22 September)

‘Perfect’ in every way, Virgo pets are always glossy and well-groomed and would be ideal in a well-furnished home.

Virgo animals of all kinds will be good show pets, consistently winning different kinds of awards.

Virgo pets are happy to be left alone while their owner is at work or out. They can, however, be highly-strung and may panic or become ill if stressed or if there is too much noise or confusion.

LIBRA (23 September - 23 October)

Librans are very charismatic pets and enjoy petting, patting and admiration from others - the more the merrier.

Libran pets are very changeable in their food preferences and are sometimes fussy eaters. They can also be incredibly lazy animals and would snooze their lives away if given the chance.

Libran pets make excellent companions that are popular with everyone. They also make good urban pets and love to socialize.

SCORPIO (24 October - 22 November)

Scorpio pets are very psychic and you may feel that you can never fully fathom them. This animal’s trust needs to be earned. Once it is gained, he or she would walk through fire for their owner/s.

Scorpio pets will forever bury and hide objects and they are also natural hunters, so a Scorpio pet will be excellent if you have problems with rats and/or mice.

Scorpio pets are extremely stubborn and can be drama kings or queens if they feel neglected or unfairly treated. Sometimes they take slight to the most minor of slights. Scorpios are excellent pets for people who enjoy a slightly unpredictable pet.

SAGITTARIUS (23 November – 21 December)

Sagittarian pets are the noisiest and most active pets of the Zodiac. Sometimes they may go missing for a few hours, or even sometimes, days.

They love company - the more the better - and prefer a varied and spontaneous routine and lifestyle.

Sagittarian pets are very good at leaning new things quickly and are excellent performers – but only if they are in the right mood. Sometimes they may lack the staying power for animal obedience classes, horse shows, dog and cat shows and the like.

Sagittarian pets are best in a very active household and especially enjoy the company of men and teenage boys.

CAPRICORN (22 December – 20 January)

Of all the Zodiac signs, this pet is the least maintenance. The Capricorn pet is totally reliable and will never beg for tidbits or complain about going out on wet nights. They also don’t mind what they eat and are not considered to be very fussy eaters.

Capricorn pets are very stable and are good with visiting children - although they can sometimes find toddlers to be irritating, and will tend to retreat to their private place if they are around.

Loyal from the earliest days, Capricorn pets will never be lured away or turn their back on you, whatever your troubles may be.

Capricorn pets are cautious to the point of obsession, and prefer older or quieter people, rather than party-goers or a large, boisterous family.

AQUARIUS (21 January – 18 February)

Aquarian pets only really need owners for their basic requirements - although they do make excellent pets. They are totally unconcerned about what you can give them materially, and are good companions with their endearing and sometimes quirky behaviour and total honesty.

Aquarian pets need a great deal of freedom and ‘alone time’, so Aquarian pets are ideal if you are out a great deal of the time.

Aquarian pets are curious and intelligent, and will explore their own territory and the world beyond, if given the opportunity. Aquarians are not particularly good with other animals and will bark or yowl if upset.

They are wonderful as a solo pet, especially for a person or couple who will not make constant emotional demands on their companion animal.

PISCES (19 February – 20 March)

Piscean pets are another very intuitive and home-loving creature, whose world is bound up with that of the owner.

Piscean pets will share your moods and so will be a very comforting pet when you are feeling lonely or unloved.

Piscean pets are very dreamy and will often stare out the window or off into space for hours on end.

Although good with babies and children, as well as sick and unhappy people, the Piscean pet can be prone to depression and to psychomatic or stress-related illnesses, and can react badly to family quarrels, smoke and physical pollution.

Piscean pets will grieve dreadfully if an animal or person within the family is hospitalized, leaves home or has died.

Pisceans are especially excellent pets for girls and women.

Astrological Compatibility

The animal/owner compatibility within a household, aviary or animal pen, is no different from that of human lovers or partners.

Although you may decide to choose a pet that is totally compatible with your own birth sign, different factors will emerge in interactions with other household members and pets. You might find it interesting to watch how a pet or human with a less instantly compatible astrological sign learns to give ‘house room’ to others in the household and form an exciting mix.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Animal Communication and the Law of Attraction

2016-07-04T13:24:00.003+10:00

Blaze and Rusty - A Personal Experience

My daughter Sarah had always wanted a horse, and I’d promised her one since she was 3 years old. She is now 14. The time had finally come, so off we went seeking a suitable horse for a young novice. We were after an aged mare who was patient, tolerant and forgiving towards a learner rider … a trustworthy horse that had ‘been there and done that.’

We stood in the middle of a huge paddock full of horses of all ages, stages and breeds. We knew we were at the right place … we just had to pick the right horse. I reminded Sarah to use her intentions, love and intuition to draw ‘her’ horse towards her.

Out of the pack strode a most beautiful young, gangly colt … never really handled by humans and totally untrained.

The breeder told me that he was a shy and timid horse who didn’t like his face and ears being touched. Sarah was already walking towards the young horse as he slowly made his way towards her. When they met in the middle, the young colt pushed his face towards her, and Sarah raised her hand to his forehead to stroke his face and ears. He didn’t flinch. The match was made, come what may. Sarah named her young horse ‘Blaze’ due to his startling white blaze.

Because Blaze was so young and required a bit of human handling before being released to us, he was to spend the following months with the breeder and his paddock family. In the meantime Sarah and I would visit Blaze a couple of times per month so they could become accustomed to one another, and so that Robyn (the breeder) could work with Sarah and Blaze together, teaching them both basic techniques.

To make Blaze feel comfortable and to demonstrate her techniques, Robyn would bring in and work with another young colt … Blaze’s paddock make and best horsey-friend … a pure-bred Quarterhorse who we nicknamed ‘Rusty’ due his vibrant chestnut coat.

After our sessions Sarah and I would talk about the horses and I’d always comment that it would be lovely for Blaze to have his horsey-friend come with him once he left the familiar safety of his home and herd to come to our farm.

I’d thought about it a trillion times, but couldn’t seriously consider buying him … one young horse, plus Jessie the Shetland x Mini pony we already have, was quite enough. I wouldn’t have the time, talent, experience, patience or knowledge to work with such a young horse … or with any horse for that matter. I love horses, but I’m not interested in riding them.

Having studied and written a book about animal communication, I am aware of the psychic links and bonds between animals and humans. I’d always felt that Blaze’s paddock-mate wanted to come to our farm when the time came for Blaze to leave. I felt that he’d become just as fond of me as I’d become of him, and he certainly wouldn’t want to be separated from Blaze.

The week Blaze was due to be delivered to us, I received an urgent phone call from his breeder. She’d run out of water in her paddocks, and needed to disperse all of her horses to other properties as soon as possible.

Would I be willing to take on Rusty aswell?

I didn’t need asking twice!

But rather than just taking him on temporarily and handing him back once her water situation was fixed, I offered to buy him outright. I just knew I wouldn’t be able to give him up in the future, so the deal was done. Rusty arrived early the following Saturday morning side-by-side with his best buddy Blaze, and both have settled in nicely.

Although I hadn’t consciously ‘put out’ for Rusty, I had managed to draw him into my life through my heart-felt desire for him.

I have been studying animal communication for some time now and intend to practice psychically communicating with Rusty. He is very open and receptive, and as I’ve learned, horses are very talkative animals and have a lot to say.

Wish me luck …!

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

PSYCHIC COMMUNICATION WITH YOUR HORSE

2016-07-04T13:10:00.001+10:00

Animal Meditation - Psychic Communication

Meditation has two purposes. It centers our minds upon the spirit within and helps us to stay calm, loving and creative. It gives us access to the infinite Universal wisdom to enable us to receive whatever information or guidance you may seek. Meditation is linked to psychic abilities and with practice we are able to access our personal inner truths aswell as infinite information, knowledge and wisdom. Meditation is a quiet period in which you have a private session with spirit. Meditative guidance always comes as loving suggestions in response to your questions, problems and/or issues. There are many different ways to meditate, and you will intuitively know which method is right for you.

We are able to meditate with our horses and use this time, focus and energy to cleanse, protect and whitelight ourselves and them, whilst forging a psychic connection and bond with them. Being spiritual beings, horses are intuned with the higher realms, earth and Universal energies and their own finely tuned instincts and intuitions.

A simple way to meditate, whitelight and connect with your horse is to simply close your eyes and imagine yourself stepping into a giant sieve. Starting at your feet slowly pull the sieve upwards along your entire body. Draw it all the way over the top of your head. Imagine that this sieve collects all the negative energies, releasing all your stress and tension as you pull it along your body. Picture the energy that collects in your sieve, then empty it into a giant imaginary rubbish bin.

Repeat this process as many times as it takes until the sieving is relatively easy and you feel lighter in all ways.

Then imagine a big ball of pure white light above you. Draw the white light, down through your entire body, flowing along in a great river of the purest of pure white light, filling you up from your feet to the top of your head. Imagine this white light going into each and every cell of your body.

When every bit of you is all filled up with white light, the light bursts out of the top of your head and surrounds the space around you with white light. The white light is warm, safe and protecting. It also opens you up to psychic impressions and communication.

When you feel ready, begin to imagine sieving your horse in the same way.

Imagine a huge sieve appearing underneath him then pull it up and along his whole body – from his nose to his tail or from his feet to his ears, whatever feels most comfortable for you both. Imagine the sieve collecting all the negative stress and tension from his body, mind and spirit, then draw the bright white light into him through the top of his head. Fill him up with the river of white light from his hooves to the tips of his ears. When every cell of his body is filled with white light, it will burst out the top of his head and surround him with white light too.

Take some of the white light and make a connection from your third eye to your horse’s third eye with it, then use that connection to find the quiet place in his mind. Practice this over and over. You are then able to hear your horse in words or pictures or in ideas, thoughts or impressions. You can sit for hours connecting to your horse’s quiet mind until you can hear them, or you can connect to them for a number of short periods of time to achieve the same result. Different people do things differently and there are no rules. Just do what is most comfortable for you and your horse.

Remember though, to always be grateful. Be grateful for the connection your horse allowed you to experience with him as it is a very precious gift indeed.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Intuitively Communicating with Animals

2016-07-02T18:04:00.001+10:00

The Secret Language of Animals and Nature

Throughout the ages, Ancient cultural and tribal wisdom from all around the world looked to the secret language of nature and the natural world for knowledge, advice and guidance. The secret language of animals and nature and the activities and behaviours of the animals were of interest in particular. Animals were looked upon for their guidance, instinctual habits, nourishment, healing, their direction and law.

The ancient teachings and knowledge of the early Australian Aboriginals, African peoples and Native Americans are still recognized today and practiced on a daily basis by many of their people. The skills they have used for so many years are easy to learn and interpret, with practice and patience, by those who look to the old ways for answers on all levels - physical, emotional and spiritual. The know of the secret language of animals and nature.

Animals leave signs that indicate their presence while also leaving a constant trail of messages intended for those who seek them out as teachers and counsellors.

Humans are most capable of an enormous amount of love and compassion. We love our animal companions, and yet, often, when dealing with their needs, people really don’t understand.

You may have noticed the animals and the natural world (think weather phenomena) behaving a little oddly (or violently) lately. Perhaps there is an increased volatility at times, or more timidity, a higher awareness of changes in the air. Perhaps your dog is barking a lot or unusually snappy, or your cat is urinating in the house, or your horse is acting strangely. This is not necessarily ‘bad’ behaviour, but rather, it is an urgent communication which means that its time that we really have to listen.

It can also mean there is something 'wrong', or that they are holding a mirror to how their person (owner) is behaving or handling the energetic shifts of these times. It is up to us to look to our own actions and emotions, and the way we behave as humans.

Animals, both wild and domestic, play an intricate part in our lives, giving us unconditional love, assistance, companionship and devotion. Animals have been known to warn and protect humans from all kinds of disasters, both natural and health-wise. Our remarkable bond with our animals inspires us to give love and care, with the reward of many hours of joy and healing in return.

All of the world’s animals - large, small and in between, deserve our love, respect and honour.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Animals And Their Natural Intuition and Instincts

2016-07-02T17:47:00.001+10:00

Warnings from Animals
Wild creatures have an amazing homing instinct; for example, it is well-known that salmon and trout are able to find their way hundreds or even thousands of miles to their original spawning place, and there are countless stories of wartime carrier pigeons taking messages back to base through enemy fire, even when injured.

With a pet, the telepathic bond is tuned in to its owner, and it operates over great distances, regardless of whether or not the pet has been to the place where the owner is.

Animals have Foresight
Animals sometimes seem to be aware of events before they happen. This may be because (unlike humans) their minds are not limited to linear time, or it may be because they are so sensitive that they are able to pick up early warning signals of danger on their ‘automatic radar’ before human radar can tune in. An animal’s sight, sense and hearing are certainly more acute than a human’s but this does not fully explain how a pet can anticipate danger to the owner, sometimes hours or even days before it occurs.

Like humans who have premonitions that often involve a close relative or friend, pets often change established behaviour patterns for no apparent reason, and have saved their owner’s life as a result.

The unprompted howling of dogs without reason is almost worldwide, and has been considered a warning to humans throughout the ages. Animals spontaneously leaving an area en masse has often been a foreboding warning to humans, such as in times of earthquakes, volcanic activity and tsunamis, for example. It has often been documented that not only pets, but wild animals such as monkeys, birds and elephants, instinctively leave an area prior to a natural disaster taking place.

These animal warnings can occur up to a week or more before an earthquake, though they are most dramatic during the 24 hours before disaster strikes. Animals and birds are so in tune with the earth that they can alert us to all kinds of changes, from adverse weather conditions to volcanic eruptions and tidal waves.

Everyday Warnings from Pets
Most warnings from animals and birds are not of the life and death kind, but they can alert us to dangers we would prefer to avoid.

For example:
- If you are buying a new dwelling of any kind, and there are no birds flying around outside, be aware that there is something ‘wrong’ with the place.

- If possible, introduce your pet briefly to a new home before making the final decision. If the animal refuses to enter the house or go into certain rooms, find out as much history as you can about the house and property prior to purchase. When animals are uncomfortable with the energies, there is a good reason.

- If a normally friendly pet takes an instant dislike to a stranger or new acquaintance, be wary not to leave the person alone in your home, or for that matter, be alone with them yourself. It is a clear indication that all is not well.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Animal and Pet Communication

2016-07-02T17:13:00.001+10:00

Animal Speak

Some pet owners believe that if we talk to our animals they will reply telepathically and our minds can interpret their feelings as words. A number of successful pet/animal Healers around the world have used this method to diagnose how an animal is feeling or what is wrong with him/her, and found it especially useful for diagnosing stress-related illnesses.

One explanation for this ability to interpret animal thoughts as ‘words’ could be that the aura of the animal and the owner temporarily merge, so the two minds become as one.

Auras
People and animals seem to have unique and relatively constant patterns of energy that intermingle and interact with those of other people and animals. It may be that we are attracted to people and pets whose energy patterns are similar to our own, or in some way, compliment our own emotional vibes. Indeed, this unseen and intangible connection may partly explain why we are drawn to choose an animal that was not our originally planned choice, and why we can be attracted by the adoring eyes of a physically ‘unlovely’ creature.

A name often given to the energy field by those who work in spiritual healing is the ‘Aura’. Intuitive people may describe this aura in terms of bands of colour. These colours can be matched against traditional colour meanings collected from the spiritual and magical writings of different cultures and ages, and seem to be very accurate in describing the personality and mood of a person or animal around whom they are detected. The colours are sometimes seen in the mind’s eye, or to some people they appear as an external halo that is especially visible around the creature or person’s head.

Seeing An Aura
Every particle, atom and cell of all living things on this planet is surrounded by an energy field known as the ‘Aura’. The aura has a series of layers and ‘meridians’ which are channels which convey energy around the body.

The hardest part about seeing an aura is learning to trust your intuitive or psychic vision. One bonus is that even if you are not aware of seeing colours, the process does make you more able to anticipate pet moods. The exercise of looking for auras opens intuitive channels in a way that suits you best.

An animal’s aura usually extends from 6 to 10 centimetres around the body. This depends on the spirituality of the animal, not its size. As the animal’s body moves, the aura follows the line of the body. At times of excitement or intense protectiveness towards an owner the can expand much further and the colours may become momentarily brilliant. When an animal is totally in tune with the owner, the auras of pet and owner merge at the edges.

Create a time of stillness when you sit by your pet and share a communal quiet space in which communication through ‘aura merging’ can take place. Evenings when the house is quiet are perfect – but make sure there are no outside distractions. If you are working with a horse, twilight is a good time, when your horse is resting. In this case, make physical contact by touching the horse lightly as you work.

1. Face the animal.

2. Begin with a simple message of love spoken out loud, softly and repetitively, over and over for a minute or so.

3. Let the words get softer until they become a whisper and then fade off into silence.

4. Wait for about a minute and then repeat the message. Repeat this 3 or 4 times.

5. As you speak, visualize the animal’s aura moving closer so that similar colours from your aura and the animal’s flow in both directions and enclose you both in a swirling mist or haze. These are usually pink, green, purple and blue. If you find it hard to picture the colours, use a fibre-optic lamp to simulate the experience until your own psyche takes over.

6. After the third or fourth time you may feel a stirring in your mind as though light waves, or a ripple of leaves were moving between you and your pet, in bands of green and/or pink lights. At this point you will be communicating heart to heart and mind to mind.

7. Let the colours fade and separate – then repeat the experience a day or so later. Next time you may hear words in the silence - these would be the animal’s thoughts translated by your unconscious mind, into what is often a soft, low voice - or you may receive one or two distinct images straight from the animal’s mind.

8. You can use this method to ask your pet what is wrong, to send healing or to receive information about any aspect of the pet’s feelings and to share your own. If your pet has a message for you, he or she might sit silently and still, looking at you expectantly.

9. Take any warnings or advice seriously, because animal instincts are so much more evolved, psychically and in-tune with unseen influences than our own.

** As you become more practiced you will only need to look at your pet through half-closed eyes to see the aura colours merging.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

GROWING RHODODENDRONS and AZALEAS

2016-07-02T17:03:00.001+10:00

How to Grow Rhododendrons and Azaleas

Aspect
Rhododendrons and Azaleas prefer locations where they receive semi or dappled shade. They will grow in open spaces, but prefer morning sun with protection from the hot afternoon sun.

Soil
Rhododendrons and Azaleas prefer a slightly acidic soil (pH 3-6) that is well-draining and high in organic matter.

Prior to planting, feed the soil with compost and aged manure in order to condition the soil and improve moisture retention.

* Do NOT plant Rhododendrons and Azaleas in concrete or brick pots or containers as the lime in the mortar can leach into the soil, making it alkaline.

Planting
Rhododendrons and Azaleas are surface-rooting plants, so therefore do not need deep soil in order to thrive. 30 to 40 centimetres is adequate.

With new plants it is important to gently tease out the roots prior to planting to help them establish themselves well.

After positioning the plant in the prepared hole, backfill, mulch and water well with a seaweed solution.

Fertilizing
Rhododendrons and Azaleas can be pruned once they have finished blooming. They can be fed with either a pellet-form of organic plant food, or in slow-release granular form.

Follow this with a fresh layer of organic mulch to reduce soil evaporation.

Fertilize again in Autumn to encourage strong, healthy plants.

Pruning
Rhododendrons and Azaleas can be pruned to remove diseased and/or damaged branches or foliage, and to shape them after flowering.

Azaleas respond well to pruning and make perfect specimens for growing as hedges or trimmed into standards.

Rhododendrons however, should only be pruned very lightly and only if needed.

Pests and Diseases
Rhododendrons and Azaleas are both prone to pests and diseases.
Petal blight is a fungal disease that turns the flowers brown. The easiest solution is to pick off the affected flowers. Petal blight can also be combated with the use of a commercial or organic fungicide.

Azaleas can be prone to ‘lace bug’ infestations, which causes brown spots under the leaves. A symptom to look out for is leaves suddenly turning a silver colour. An organic solution is ‘glue spray’ and ‘oil spray’ amongst others. Commercially, Pyrethrum spray is appropriate to use to combat Azalea lace bug.

Tips for growing Rhododendrons and Azaleas
When planting your Azaleas and Rhododendrons, choose a forecast period of several cool, overcast days. Plant either early or late in the day, avoiding the midday sun. Do not plant in hot or windy weather as moisture loss from the leaves is best avoided.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Intuitively Choosing The Right Pet

2016-07-02T16:59:00.001+10:00

Choosing The Right Pet For You

Sometimes the reasons for choosing a particular animal are obvious, whilst at other times it is only weeks or months later that we may realize that we could have picked no other creature.

One common sign that a particular animal is intended to live with us is when a young animal shares their birthday of a former pet or was born on the day or the anniversary when a beloved animal companion died. Some owners feel instinctively that the new pet has been guided to them – not as a replacement for the lost animal, as each animal is unique – but as consolation, and as a way of overcoming grief.

Modern science is becoming increasingly aware that everything is made up of connected particles of constantly moving energy. Some researchers believe that humans and animals emit particular frequencies of energies. These energy fields are more compatible with some people and animals than with others. This would explain how particular animals seem to tune in to us emotionally, and how animals and humans are drawn together by what seems to be pure coincidence, but is actually a kind of intuitive radar.

There certainly seems to be an intangible chemistry between humans and animals that brings together particular pets and their owners, sometimes in the most unlikely ways.

The Use of Pendulums in Finding a New Pet
Pendulums are one of the few psychic methods trusted by science and industry and have had spectacular success in finding water and oil for many years. Latterly, they have been used in war situations for locating enemy submarines and landmines, sometimes using only a map.

A pendulum is simply a weight on a chain. It can be made from crystal, metal or wood, or can even be a favourite pendant. It is useful for all forms of decision making.

A pendulum operates by psychokinesis: your hand is guided by your unconscious mind to move the pendulum towards the correct choice, from a selection of possibilities.

We rarely recognize or trust the ‘automatic radar’ that operates in our subconscious mind – but when we use a pendulum, it gives us an external and tangible expression of our ‘automatic radar’.

Deep within our intuition, we have all kinds of buried, useful information, and pets are remarkably efficient at loosening our intuitive inhibitions. A pendulum held over a written list of possible locations will reflect our hidden psychic awareness of where we will find your new pet. The pendulum responds by a tugging, downward movement or a sudden heaviness over one choice on the list.

Dreaming About Animals
Sometimes we may receive a signal that a particular animal is intended for us through a dream. It is the ‘automatic radar’ in our subconscious mind, alerting us that a specific kind of animal or even one individual creature is right for us, even if our conscious choice would be different.

Pet owners tend to be especially alert to this form of guidance because they are sensitive to their own intuitive processes, and therefore, are tuned in to the needs of animals - even those they may not have met yet.

Sometimes our conscious minds can create all kinds of practical obstacles, but the subconscious mind will guide us effortlessly to make the right decisions – if allowed to do so.

Visualization
You may wish to establish, in advance, a psychic and emotional connection between yourself and your future pet, so that mutual recognition is instantaneous. If this is the case, you could try visualization – an effective psychological method of focusing on what you want.

The power of the mind is far greater than we realize, and we can make a telepathic connection with an animal that is on our emotional wavelength, through visualization. We can create a space in our mind in which we can visualize or imagine our future pet. This works because animals that are seeking owners are so open, that they transmit intuitive vibes of love into the cosmos and our own ‘radar’ picks these up unconsciously.

Even if you find it hard to accept the idea of innate psychic powers, by allowing your mind to form the picture of the pet, you can open your conscious mind to alternatives that might actually suit you better than the choice made by your conscious mind. If you find an entirely different creature appearing in your visualization (or daydreams) it may be a way of alerting you to an affinity you have with a particular animal that you had not recognized.

Some people believe that you can draw the right animal closer to you through an innate psychic power call ‘psychokinesis’ – the same power that lies behind pendulum work. This is the ability of the mind to draw compatible people, or animals and circumstances towards you.

Choosing the Right Name
It is often difficult to choose a name in advance, as animal personalities differ, just as humans do. Anything can prompt a name once your animal has arrived, such as a colour or personality trait. Often, you or a family member may speak an unplanned name when you first see an animal, and in that split second you will know it could not have been anything else.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

RHODODENDRONS and AZALEAS

2016-07-02T12:49:00.001+10:00

All about Rhododendrons and Azaleas

Rhododendrons and Azaleas grow natively at the heights of the Himalayas, the mountain forests of Assam and Upper Burma, the remote hills of the Chinese hinterland, the islands of Japan, the tropical forests of Java and Sumatra, the fringes of the Arctic Circle and the eastern regions of North America. Today, Rhododendrons and Azaleas can be found worldwide.

Rhododendrons and Azaleas boast dazzling Spring flowers, and some varieties flower from Autumn, through Winter and into Spring. Both Azaleas and Rhododendrons are suited to cool climate gardens.

All Azaleas are Rhododendrons, yet not all Rhododendrons are Azaleas. This is because both plants are closely related, and belong to the genus ‘Rhododendron’. There are many different species within the ‘Rhododendron’ genus, and Azaleas are just a small group.

Azaleas are amongst the world’s most admired flowering shrubs due to their amazing variety of floral shapes and colours. Evergreen Azaleas have beautiful, showy flowers from late Winter to early Spring, and brilliant green foliage all year round. Azalea flowers can be bi-colour, double or single, patterned or frilled. Some varieties have very large flowers and leaves, whilst others have slim, small leaves and flowers.

There are also deciduous forms that have masses of colourful blooms, followed by lush foliage that changes colour throughout the months, until dropping their leaves in Autumn.

Grown in large pots or in the garden, Azaleas can make themselves at home in almost any garden style, and are easy to care for as they are quite self-sufficient once established.

Rhododendrons are cool climate plants (like Azaleas) and are well known for their brilliant abundance of flowers and leather-looking leaves. Rhododendron flowers come in a huge variety of colours and hues, from white to pink, red, orange, yellow, purple and mauve.

Rhododendrons range in size from small shrubs to huge trees, depending upon variety.

Rhododendrons and Azaleas thrive in semi-shade, preferably with morning sun, good drainage and slightly acidic soils. Rhododendrons and Azaleas and prefer loamy soils enriched with organic matter such as leaf mulch or compost.

Tips for buying Rhododendrons and Azaleas

Buy Rhododendrons and Azaleas in Spring when they are in bloom so as to ensure that you buy the exact colour you want.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Wheatgrass Oats and Barley

2016-07-02T12:42:00.003+10:00

Growing Wheatgrass Oats and Barley

Wheatgrass contains numerous anti-oxidants and nutrients such as Vitamin A, Complex B Vitamins, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin K, iron, calcium, potassium and magnesium.

Wheatgrass contains more phyto-nutrients per gram than vegetables, and is high in protein, enzymes, fibre and amino acids.

Wheatgrass is made up of 70% chlorophyll which has numerous health benefits as chlorophyll neutralizes toxins from the body and helps to purify the liver. Chlorophyll is the first product of light, and therefore contains more light energy than any other element. Chlorophyll is the basis of all plant life.

Wheatgrass contains over 90 minerals and high concentrations of alkaline minerals such as sodium, magnesium, potassium and calcium. Wheatgrass also contains 19 amino acids.

Daily consumption of wheatgrass is believed to enhance the health of blood cells, bones, muscles, teeth, the liver, spleen and kidneys, regulates blood pressure, improved metabolism and blood pressure, improves metabolism and blood circulation, and helps to prevent diabetes and heart disease.

Containing a high magnesium content, wheatgrass is said to ease menstrual and menopausal symptoms and conditions.

Wheatgrass is also deemed to be a natural appetite suppressant and digestive aid. It is also reputed to ease chronic fatique syndrome and boost natural energy reserves. Wheatgrass may help to detoxify heavy metals from the body, reduce hair loss and assist with colds, eczema and osteoarthritis.

Wheatgrass may also be of benefit to treat gastrointestinal conditions, anaemia and the side effects of chemotherapy.

Soaking and Pre-Sprouting Wheatgrass Seeds

Wash and soak seeds for recommended time on seed packet and be sure not to under or over-soak.

If the seeds and water become murky and a scum forms on the surface, the seeds are over-soaked and must be discarded.

After soaking, place the seeds in a sprouter until tiny roots appear.

Rinse at least twice per day.

Growing Wheatgrass, Barley and Oats

Wheatgrass (barley and/or oats) can be grown on a kitchen bench on in the laundry.

The growing medium must be airy and light. Organic potting mix, cocopeat and/or worm castings are all excellent choices.

Place soil mixture into a seedling tray filling to 3 to 4 cm, and water thoroughly.

Check that the soil is moist all the way through.

Lay the pre-sprouted seeds (*see SPROUTS and SPROUTING link below) evenly on top of the soil mixture in the tray, at down gently and water well.

Cover with an inverted tray and set in a low-light, room temperature position.

Check on them daily and water when needed. In warm weather you may need to water twice per day.

Once the seedlings are growing and have reached approximately 2 to 3 cm tall, remove the cover and move into sunlight. The wheatgrass can be transferred to a sunnier position once the grass is growing to approximately 2.5 to 5cm in height.

The ideal temperature range to grow wheatgrass, barley and oats is 20 degrees C to 25 degrees C..

Harvesting Wheatgrass, Barley and Oats

Harvesting can take place in 6 to 60 days, or when growth reaches 15 to 25cm in height.

Cut the grass at 2 to 3 cms above the soil, leaving the roots in the tray.

Peak nutrition is reached by harvesting just prior to the ‘joining stage’, which is when the plant switches from vegetable growth to reproductive growth as the blade develops its second stem.

Trays will usually produce a second and sometimes even a third crop.

Storage of Wheatgrass, Barley and Oats

Harvested wheatgrass, oats and barley can be stored for approximately one week, but peak nutritional benefits are obtained from the freshly cut grass.

Juicing Wheatgrass, Oats and Barley

A special type of juicer is required to crush the blades of grass. The ‘green juice’ mixes well with celery, parsley, alfalfa, sprouts, spinach, kale, dandelion and/or the microgreens sunflower and buckwheat.

How To Use Wheatgrass

Wheatrass can be taken as a dried concentrate, whole leaf powder, extract, tablets or in enema form. Wheatgrass juice however, is the healthiest and most beneficial form.

For best results, drink wheatgrass juice within 30 minutes of juicing.

*

By consuming wheatgrass juice, one may feel a boost in strength, energy, endurance, health, happiness, a heightened spirituality and general wellbeing.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

Microgreens

2016-07-02T12:36:00.000+10:00

What Are Microgreens?

Microgreens are high in nutritional value and are an alternative to sprouts. Most often grown in seedling trays, microgreens differ from sprouts in that they are grown in sunlight and harvested with scissors when there are 2 or more true leaves, whereas sprouts are eaten when they are much smaller. Microgreens are halfway in size between sprouts and salad mixes.

Advantages to growing your own microgreens include:

* Quick, simple and only basic equipment is required.
* There is a wide selection of taste sensations, colours and textures to choose from.
* Very little space is required in the kitchen. You can grow food without the need for a garden.
* Very economical as microgreens and sprouts can multiply by up to 15 times their weight.

Microgreens include:

Broccoli, chickpeas, kale, radish and red cabbage, amaranth, barley, basil, beetroot, bok choy buckwheat chickpeas, coriander, chicory, endive, cress, garlic chives, cress, dill, lettuce (all leafy tyes), linseed, mizuna, mustard, orach, oats, parsely, pea radish, red cabbage, rocket, silverbeet, spinach, sunflower, wheat.

Containers for Growing Microgreens

You don’t need a garden - just sunlight, soil and water to produce abundant supplies of nutritious microgreens on a kitchen bench, window-sill, balcony or shadehouse.

Commercially-made plastic seedling trays are the most common containers used to grow microgreens.

Trays should be flat with ample drainage holes allowing leafy microgreens to grow straight upwards to receive maximum light.

Planting Microgreens

Use soil that consists of organic potting mix, cocopeat, vermiculite and/or seed-raising mix.

Fill the tray with your selected soil and moisten the mix.

If required, soak the seeds, but be careful not to over-soak. (If seeds and water go murky and a scum forms on the surface, this means that the seeds have soaked for too long. They are best discarded.)

Sprinkle the seeds evenly on top of the mix and gently pat down.

Do not over-crowd the tray as too much seed will cause ‘damping off’, which is a fungal disease that makes your plants collapse. It also results in long, spindly stems.

Sift a fine, thin layer of soil mix over the seeds then set the container into a drip tray.

Place the tray on a sunny windowsill or even under grow lights.

Water often using a sprayer bottle set to fine spray. Add diluted organic nutrients (eg. seaweed) to your sprayer bottle, as this will improve the nutrient levels in the microgreens.

Germination is the process in which water, oxygen and light work together with the grain or seed to start a new life. Seeds will germinate within 3 to 7 days.

Some seeds will not germinate at very low or very high temperatures. Always check the growing instructions on the seed packet.

If microgreens appear weak, spindly and/or skinny, the plants may need more feeding and/or sunlight. Move the tray to a position with stronger sunlight and/or spray with a diluted solution of seaweed.

Harvesting Microgreens

Within 1 to 4 weeks, once the second set of leaves appear, the microgreen can be harvested for salads, garnishes and whatever you wish.

Cut just above ground level with scissors. Many types of microgreens will regrow and can be cut several times.

Afterwards, the tray contents can be added to the compost heap or worm farm.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

SPROUTS and SPROUTING

2016-07-02T12:22:00.001+10:00

What Are Sprouts?

Sprouting is ‘bench top organic vegetable gardening’.

Sprouts are incredibly nutritious and are a miracle food. As a ‘living food’, sprouts continue to grow higher in nutritional value after being harvested. The most powerful enzyme-rich foods are sprouts.
Sprouting is the process of germinating seeds to be eaten raw or cooked.

When seeds are soaked, the dormant seeds turn into a nutritional powerhouse.

Sprouting seeds, legumes and grains increases their enzyme content as much as 43 times more than non-sprouted foods. The enzymes boost the life-giving activity in our body, while helping our body digest the nutrients in our foods.

Sprouts have the highest concentration of nutrition per calorie of food. The nutritional content of sprouts is many times greater than the original food value of the seeds and beans from which they sprout. Sprouts contain an abundance of anti-oxidants that prevent harm to our DNA.

Another benefit to eating sprouts is that there is no preparation time.

Brassica sprouts are easy to grow, and are believed to stimulate the immune system and have a tonic effect on the body. Sprouting and growing microgreens are easy ways to add essential vitamins and enzymes to the diet.

A great combination of nutrition and taste include: broccoli, kale, red mustard and red cabbage.

These can also be grown as microgreens.

Seeds

The seeds of any bean, lentil or grain are basically small plant embryos nestled within a seed coating. The seed coating offers a protective layer for the embryo, keeping all necessary nutrients and stored energy safe in the surrounding environment.

The stored energy and nutrients within each seed are triggered by water, oxygen and sunlight, and when that energy is set in motion, the seed starts working to produce a new plant. The sprouting of seeds and grains happens once that energy and all the nutrients found within the seed have been activated.

Seed Storage

Proper storage is essential to maximizing the germination potential of all dormant seeds, beans and rains.

Basic storage is in the cool, dry and dark.

Seed like can be maximized by freezing. This will increase shelf-life by four to five times.

Containers and Storage For Sprouting

Jar Sprouters

A sprouter can be made simply by utilizing a large glass jar with a wide, straight neck. Flywire, muslin or cheesecloth and a rubber band make for a perfect lid.

The lid needs to allow sufficient aeration and drainage, otherwise mouldy, dead seeds may result.

Commercially available sprouters suit a wide range of seeds, are versatile, and make it easy to produce a continuous supply as additional levels can be added every few days (depending upon model).

There are many different commercially available sprout-growing containers, ranging from jars, domes and bags to fully-automated systems.

Storage of Sprouts

Once the sprouts are ready they are to be stored in a refrigerator.

Sprouts store best when very well-drained and stored in a container that is able to breathe.

Rinsing every few days then draining well will prolong storage life.

Any seeds or sprouts that have even the slightest hint of mould must be discarded.

Growing Sprouts

Growing sprouts and microgreens reduces your ‘food miles’ with a garden that is not at the mercy of the elements and pests. It also doesn’t take up too much space as a bench near a window with access to a sink is ideal.

Sprouts are incredibly nutritious and contain high levels of B Vitamins, C, E and A - up to 15 times their original content. The raised quantity of enzymes aids with digestion.

Sprouts can be grown most of the year, although just like all other seeds, for successful germination, sprouting seeds have a temperature range of between 20 degrees Celcius to 25 degrees Celcius.

Each seed, bean or nut has its own ideal sprouting time, but usually after three to five days they are ready to eat. If left loner, they will develop leaves and turn into ‘bay greens’, which are also edible and nutritious.

Sprout growth can be slowed or halted by refrigeration.

Only start sprouts if you will be available to look after them for the following 3 to 5 days.

Avoid very cold or very hot periods. In Winter, a heated propagator tray may be beneficial.

Wash seeds with fresh water before soaking and *de-hulling.

Soak the seeds (as per packet directions according to your chosen seeds). Soaking and rinsing the seeds will remove its enzyme inhibitors and the seed will begin to germinate. In this process, all of the resting nutrition in the seed will begin to break down into separate amino acids and complex starches break down into simpler carbohydrates. The plant starts to multiply in its nutrient content in preparation to become a full-sized plant. This results in a fibre-rich food full of vitamins, minerals, proteins, and in some instances even essential fatty acids.

Seeds that are getting ready to germinate will soak up a lot of water, which they require in order to activate the enzymes inside that trigger the cells to start growing and duplicating. Once the plant embryo inside the seed grows large enough it cracks open the shell of the seed and extends the tip of the root (or sprout) so that the growing plant may absorb water and nutrients from the soil.

Be careful not to over-soak as this can kill your sprouts. If the water and seeds go murky and a scum forms on the surface, the seeds have been over-soaked and are best discarded.

Avoid soaking too much seed at any one time, and do not over-crowd the seed-sprouter. Too much seed in your sprouter encourages seeds to suffocate and die. This can cause un-germinated seeds, sliminess and an ‘off’ smell. Begin with less seeds and check the sprouter’s capacity when the sprouts are ready.

As with all living things, oxygen is necessary for metabolism and provides energy. For most rains, seeds and legumes, oxygen is required to keep the growth process going.

Good aeration and a plentiful supply of fresh oxygen is required as it gives life to the seeds. All living things need to breathe. Poor drainage will cause to seeds to rot.

Rinse the see at least 3 times per day. Water is the key ingredient in growing sprouts.
During hot temperatures, rinse more often.

Thorough rinsing as most important as the water provides the moisture necessary to activate growth.

Rinsing also flushes away any waste products and re-oxygenates the seed. Failing to rinse will cause the seeds to shrivel and die, as will hot, direct sunlight. If seeds begin to dry out, soak them briefly then drain well.

To produce leafy, green sprouts, daylight is required, but also avoid direct sunlight.

** If you are unable to tend to the seeds on hot days, refrigerate the sprouts until you return.

The 5 Basic Rules of Sprouting

1 Rinse seeds often.
2 Keep them moist, but not too wet.
3 Keep them at room temperature, not too hot or too cold.
4 Give them plenty of breathing space.
5 Do not over-fill the container.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

COMPANION PLANTING - Plant Guide

2016-07-02T11:58:00.002+10:00

What To Plant With What ....

ALFALFA: (Lucerne)

Alfalfa is a perennial plant that roots deeply. It’s growth infuses soil with nitrogen and helps it to accumulate iron, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. The plant withholds drought due to it’s long tap-root, and this also promotes the breaking up of hard clay soils with its thin but strong roots.

Alfalfa is basically pest and disease free and does not attract ‘bad’ insects into the garden. Being a hardly plant, Alfalfa only needs natural rainfall to survive.

AMARANTH:

Amaranth is a tropical annual plant that needs very warm to hot conditions to flourish. The fresh, young leaves can be eaten in salads.

Plant Amaranth with sweet corn as it’s leaves provide shade which allows the soil to retain moisture. Amaranth is a great host to predatory ground beetles.

ANISE:

Anise is a licorice flavoured herb which is a good host for predatory wasps which prey on aphids. It’s scent also repels aphids and deters pests from brassicas (such as cauliflower and broccoli) by camouflaging their odour.

The Anise plant improves the vigour of any plants growing near it and grows well planted near Coriander.

The ointment or essential oil of Anise is an excellent protectant against bug and insect stings and bites.

ARTEMISIAS: See Wormwood

ASPARAGUS:

Asparagus can be planted with tomato, parsley and basil, as they all enhance one another.

BASIL:

Basil is a wonderful plant to place alongside tomatoes as they improve growth and flavour. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips, flies and mosquitoes as they detest the smell.

Do NOT plant Basil near Rue.

BAY LEAF: (Laurel)

Bay trees can be planted throughout the garden and can be used both as a companion plant as well as an ornamental tree.

Bay leaves can be placed in storage containers of beans and grains as the smell and oil of the Bay deters weevils and moths. Dried Bay leaves can be sprinkled with other deterrent herbs in the garden as a natural insecticide dust. For example, Bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint make a great combination to keep ‘bad bugs’ out of the vegie patch.

BEANS:

All varieties of beans enrich the soil with nitrogen. They make great companions for carrots, brassicas, beets, zucchinis, melons and cucumbers. Beans make excellent companions for potatoes, radishes, celery and strawberries. Beans are also good to plant near heavy nitrogen users such as grain plants and corn.

Do NOT plant beans near alliums, sunflowers, beets or onions.

BEET:

Beet is excellent for adding minerals to the soil as beet leaves are composed of 25% magnesium. Beet make great companions for onions, garlic, leeks, lettuce and brassicas.

BORAGE:

Borage makes for a brilliant companion plant for strawberries, squash and for tomatoes especially as borage deters hornworms and cabbage worms.

Plant borage near strawberries as it makes an excellent protective companion.

Borage adds trace minerals to the soil and is a good addition to any compost pile, heap or bin.

Borage is one of the best bee and wasp attracting plants and can benefit everything planted around it.

BRASSICAS:

Brassicas need a rich soil and plenty of lime ... and just about all the help they can get.

Excellent companion plants to benefit brassicas are chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage and rosemary.

BRUSSEL SPROUTS:

Brussel sprouts are best grown alongside chamomile, hyssop, sage, thyme, rosemary and marigolds.

BUCKWHEAT:

Buckwheat is a species of plant that has an extensive root system which breaks up heavy soils and clays and also accumulates calcium for the benefit of the other plants around it.

Buckwheat attracts butterflies and hoverflies to the garden.

CABBAGE:

All in the cabbage family grow will with the help of all aromatic herbs, celery, beets, the onion family, chamomile, spinach and chard.

Rows of cabbage can be inter-planted with sage, hyssop, rosemary and thyme as these suppress aphids and white butterflies.

CAPSICUM:

Capsicum (and all peppers) have root exudates that prevent root-rot and other diseases of the soil. Plant capsicum wherever these issues are present.

A capsicum tea can be made to act as an insect repellent.

CARAWAY:

Caraway is an excellent plant for loosening compacted clay soils. Caraway has deep, strong roots which burrow and break up hardened earth.

Caraway flowers attract butterflies and beneficial insects into the garden.

CARROTS:

Carrots are best planted with companions such as peas, lettuce, rosemary, the onion family, sage and tomatoes.

DO NOT plant dill near carrots.

CATNIP: (Mint family)

Catnip deters flea beetles, aphids and weevils, and is a great companion plant for tomatoes.

Mice detest the smell of Catnip (and all mints) and it can be used as a deterrent anywhere where there is a mouse infestation. Place sprigs of Catnip wherever needed. Catnip can also be used as a deterrent for ants, using the same principles.

CELERY:

Celery is best planted with the onion and cabbage families, tomatoes, bush beans and nasturtium as companion plants.

CHAMOMILE:

The annual Chamomile plant improves the flavour of cabbages, cucumbers, onions and leek. Chamomile is an excellent companion for all in the brassica family. The plant accumulates potassium, sulphur and calcium and returns them to the soil for the benefit of all plants around it.

Chamomile increases and enhances oil production in herbs and is considered to be a ‘tonic’ for any plant growing near it.

CHERVIL:

Chervil is an excellent companion plant for radishes and lettuce, as it keeps aphids at bay. Chervil increases and improves growth and flavour of any vegetable or herb it is planted near.

CHIVES:

Growing chives as a companion to carrots and tomatoes improves the flavour, texture and growth and drives ‘bad bugs’ away.

Chives can be planted among apple trees as it helps to prevent scab. Chives make a wonderful companion for celery.

A tea made of chives can be easily made (steep chives in boiled water until cooled) and watered over cucumber and zucchini plants to prevent downy mildew.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS:

Chrysanthemum flowers have been used as a botanical pesticide for centuries and can be planted anywhere around the garden.

The Chrysanthemum plant kills root nematodes.

CLOVER:

Clover can be used as a ‘green manure’ and makes for an excellent companion plant as it attracts beneficial bugs and insects. Clover is particularly beneficial planted around apple trees as it attracts predators of aphids.

COMFREY:

The Comfrey plant accumulates calcium, potassium and phosphorus, then disperses it back into the soil.

CORIANDER:

The Coriander plant repels aphids and spider mites. A tea can be made of the coriander leaves and flowers and used to spray under leaves to deter spider mites and aphids.

CORN:

Corn is best planted with companion plants such as potatoes, beans, peas, sunflowers, radishes ........

DO NOT plant corn near tomatoes.

CUCUMBER:

Excellent companion plants for cucumber are beans, corn, peas, sunflowers and radishes.

DO NOT plant cucumbers near potatoes or aromatic herbs.

DAHLIAS:

Dahlias are beautiful, tuberous annuals with huge flowers. Dahlias repel nematodes.

DILL:

Dill is excellent to plant next to cabbage and lettuce as it improves their growth and health. It also goes well with cucumbers and all in the onion family.

Dill flowers attract predatory wasps and butterflies and repel aphids and spider mites. Scatter some dill leaves on and around plants that show signs of aphid invasion.

EGGPLANT:

Wonderful companion plants for eggplant are beans, peas and marigolds.

GARLIC:

Plant garlic near roses and all other aphid-attracting plants and the aphids will be less likely infest as they dislike the smell of the growing garlic.

Garlic accumulates sulphur (a naturally occurring fungicide) which helps to prevent disease in the garden. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants throughout their pores and when used as a soil drench, is also taken up by the roots.

Garlic repels cabbage moth root maggots, snails and slugs. A concentrated garlic spray can be used to repel and kill aphids and fungus gnats, amongst other garden pests.

GERANIUM:

Geranium is excellent to plant near and/or around rose bushes, corn, cabbage and grapes.

HORSERADISH:

Horseradish can be planted (in containers or pots to contain spread of growth) amongst potato plants to repel and deter slugs and burrowing bugs.

Horseradish is an excellent companion for potato crops.

An effective insect spray can be made with horseradish root.

HYSSOP: (Mint family)

Hyssop is a great companion plant for cabbage and grapes as it deters cabbage moth and beetles. It is also an excellent companion for all in the brassica family.

Hyssop attracts bees to your garden and can be inter-planted between just about all fruits, herbs and vegetables.

Do NOT plant hyssop near radish.

LAVENDER:

Lavender is excellent to plant all around your garden as the lavender flower attracts bees and butterflies. Lavender nourishes many nectar feeling and beneficial insects.

Use dried lavender sprigs to repel moths.

LEEKS:

Leeks are excellent companions of carrots, celery, onions and garlic as it improves their overall health and growth.

LEMON BALM:

Dried Lemon Balm leaves sprinkled throughout the garden deters many bugs.

As Lemon Balm has citronella compounds, the crushed leaves ward off mosquitoes. Crush and rub some leaves on your skin to keep them away.

LETTUCE:

Excellent companion plants for lettuce growing are carrots, radishes, strawberries and cucumbers.

LOVAGE:

Loveage is a large plant once full grown, so keep this in mind when planting out.

Loveage improves the health and flavour of most plants and is a good habitat for ‘good bugs’.

MARIGOLDS:

Marigolds discourage many pests in the garden and keeps the soil free of bad nematodes. Plant marigolds next to tomatoes and in potato crops as marigolds excrete an enzyme or hormone into the soil that deters nematodes from infesting the roots.

Marigolds are able to be inter-planted freely throughout the garden – but make sure they are the scented variety as it is the scent with is the deterrent. Plant around tomatoes to deter whiteflies as they detest the smell of the marigold flowers.

Plant marigolds with garlic to ensure nematode free soil.

MARJORAM:

Marjoram is an excellent companion plant to all vegetables and herbs.

MINT:

Mint deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, fleas and aphids.

Plant mint around cabbage and tomatoes to improve the health and taste. Mint is also an excellent companion for all in the brassica family.

Earthworms are attracted to mint plantings - but we aware that mint can spread quickly and invasively so ensure that you grow mint in pots and place the pots wherever you wish around the garden.

DO NOT grow mint anywhere near parsley.

ONION FAMILY:

Companion plants for the onion family are beets, carrots, lettuce, and the cabbage family, although DO NOT plant onions near beans and peas.

PARSLEY:

Parsley makes for a good companion plant for tomatoes and asparagus.

PEAS:

Peas fix nitrogen in the soil and are excellent planting companions for sweet corn as they are heavy feeders.

Peas make great companions for carrots, radishes, turnips, cucumbers, beans, brassicas, beets, zucchinis, melons and cucumbers.

NASTURTIUMS:

Nasturtiums are excellent companions for a variety of plants. Plant nasturtium as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumber, zucchini and pumpkin. Also grow nasturtiums under fruit trees as it deters aphids, whiteflies, destructive beetles and other pests.

Nasturtiums are excellent companions for all in the brassica family as well as tomatoes. They also prove beneficial to squash, celery and radish.

The flowers and leaves of the nasturtium plant can be used in salads as a colourful and peppery addition.

ONIONS:

Onions and garlic do best when planted alongside marigolds.

POTATO:

Potato makes a wonderful companion for beans, corn, the cabbage family, marigolds and horseradish. All compliment one another.

PUMPKIN:

Marigolds and corn are great companion plants for pumpkins.

STINGING NETTLE:

The flowers of the Stinging Nettle attracts bees to your garden.

PARSLEY:

Parsley makes for an excellent companion plant for tomatoes and asparagus.

Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base.

PEPPERMINT:

Peppermint repels white cabbage moth, beetles and aphids. The menthol content in the mint acts as an insect repellent – although bees and other friendly insects love it.

PEPPERS: – See CAPSICUM

PENNYROYAL:

Pennyroyal repels fleas. It can be grown as a lawn to repel mosquitoes, flies, ticks, fleas and gnats.

PETUNIAS:

Petunias make excellent companions for asparagus, tomatoes, roses, beans, peas and just about all vegetables.

Petunias deter certain aphids and other garden pests.

RADISH:

Radish is a good companion plant for sweet corn and squash plants. Radishes are best grown alongside peas, nasturtium, lettuce and cucumber – but DO NOT plant radishes near hyssop.

ROSEMARY:

Rosemary makes an excellent companion plant for cabbage, beans, carrots and sage as it deters cabbage moth and other pests.

SAGE:

Sage is a wonderful companion to cabbage in particular, but is of benefit throughout the garden on a whole – although do NOT plant near cucumbers or rue.

Sage can be used as a companion plant to cauliflower, broccoli, rosemary and carrots as it deters moths, beetles and other pests. The sage flower attracts many beneficial insects into the garden.

SOYBEANS:

Soybeans add nitrogen to the soil making them a great companion plant to corn in particular. Soybean repels bugs and beetles.

SPINACH:

Excellent companion plants for spinach are strawberries and faba beans.

SQUASH:

Squash is best grown amongst nasturtium, corn, and marigold.

STRAWBERRIES:

An excellent companion plant for strawberries is borage.

SUNFLOWERS:

Sunflowers are excellent companion plants for all species that attract aphids.

Planting sunflowers with corn increases the yield and quality.

TANSY:

Tansy is a wonderful companion plant for fruit trees, raspberries and roses. When planted near fruit and nut trees, vegetables and berry fruits, Tansy discourages fruit fly, ants, beetles and aphids. Planted near cabbages, Tansy will repel cabbage moth and white butterfly.

Tansy is also an excellent insect repellent and deters flying insects.

Tansy is said to act as an ant repellent, although this only works with sugar ants.

Tansy has a high content of potassium and is an excellent addition to the compost box or heap.

Cautionary:

DO NOT plant Tansy anywhere near livestock of any kind as it is toxic to many animals.

TARRAGON:

Tarragon can be planted throughout the garden as this is a repellent for many pests. It also makes an excellent companion plant as it enhances the flavour and growth of all vegetables it is grown near.

THYME:

Thyme is a great companion plant for cabbages as it deters moths.

TOMATO:

Excellent companion plants for tomatoes are the onion family, basil, nasturtium, marigolds, asparagus, carrots, parsley and cucumber.

DO NOT grow tomatoes near potatoes, fennel and the cabbage family.

TURNIP:

Turnips are best grown alongside peas and beans.

NO NOT grow turnips near potatoes.

WHITE GERANIUMS:

White Geraniums are members of the pelargonum family and make excellent companion plants with all vegetables and herbs.

WORMWOOD:

Wormwood is an excellent insect repellent to most insects. A tea made of wormwood will repel cabbage moths, slugs, snails and fleas.

Wormwood is said to keep animals out of the garden when planted as a border.

DO NOT plant directly next to food crops as wormwood produces a botanical poison!

YARROW:

Yarrow is an excellent companion for all plants as it is a natural fertilizer. It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to the garden.

When placed amongst herbs, yarrow promotes the increase of essential oil content.

Add a handful of yarrow leaves to the compost heap or bin as it speeds up the composting process. The foliage of yarrow can be used to make a tea that will speed up the decomposition rate in the compost heap.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

COMPANION PLANTING - The Basic Concepts

2016-07-02T11:43:00.000+10:00

Living In Harmony With Nature ...

‘Companion planting’ is planting vegetables, herbs and flowers together which benefit one another in several ways. Companion planting brings together the observations and experiences of countless generations of gardeners and farmers. Through trial, error and success, we are able to utilize nature’s gifts to their fullest extent. Companion planting increases biodiversity and creates an ecosystem for all plants to survive and thrive.

Many plants have natural substances in their roots, flowers, leaves and stems that can repel (anti-feedents) and/or attract insects, depending upon your needs. Some species procude chemicals that stimulate the productivity and growth of other species within it’s vicinity. Other plants are able to have an impact on diseases, predators and pests and can offer protection to other plants around them.

Companion planting enhances the growth rate and flavour of other plant varieties within the garden. Companion planting throughout a garden is an important part of integrated pest management and helps bring a balanced eco-system to your landscape, allowing nature to take it’s natural course.

By using Companion Planting we are able to discourage harmful pests without losing the beneficial allies. There are countless plants, herbs and flowers that can be used as companion plants. Use plants as a backdrop, border or inter-planting in between vegetables and flower beds where you have specific needs.

Be open to experimenting throughout the seasons. Preferably use plants that are native to your area as the insect species of your area are familiar with what to look out for.

Companion planting combines beauty with purpose, and gives us a healthy, enjoyable and healing environment.

Feel free to enjoy experimenting in your garden. What works for one gardener may not necessary work for another and some suggestions may work differently (or not at all) due to differing climates, soil conditions, water, weather etc etc ... Experimenting is a great way to gain new insight for your own individual gardens.

BARRIER CROPS

Companion plants can be used to hedge beds of vegetable and inter-planted between rows. Lettuce and peas can be separated by rows of chives and garlic to prevent insect attack.

SPATIAL INTERACTION

Tall-growing, sun-loving plants may share space with lower-growing, shade-tolerant species, resulting in higher yields. Spatial interaction also has pest control benefits.

For example, the diverse canopy resulting when corn is companion-planted with pumpkins or squash is believe to disorient the adult squash vine-borer and protect the vining-crop from this pest.

Spatial interaction is basically planting a wide variety of species that confuse predatory insects. The insects’ senses are confused by the signals emitted by the diverse plantings, making it difficult for the insect to locate their desired crop.

NURSE CROPPING

One of the simplest, most beneficial effects offered by companion planting is physical, such as offering shelter from the wind and wind. A high or large canopy above may offer protection to emerging plants below.

Other plants have long tap roots that help break up and aerate heavy and compacted soils.

Growing some species of plants (groundcovers) as weed suppression is another form of ‘nurse-cropping’. Nurse crops such as oats have long been used to help establish alfalfa (or lucerne) by supplanting the more competitive weeds that would otherwise grow in their place.

BENEFICIAL HABITATS

Beneficial habitats are another type of companion planting method, whereby the benefits are derived when the plants provide a desirable environment for beneficial insects and other arthropods to survive and thrive.

PLANTS THAT RETRIEVE NUTRIENTS

Some plant species offer benefits to surrounding plants by way of their long roots. These plants draw up nutrients from deep within the ground and actively accumulate elements useful for other plants. An example of this is Buckwheat, which is a species that accumulates calcium for the benefit of the other plants around it.

NITROGEN FIXING PLANTS

Legumes such as beans, peas and clover, have the ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen for their own use and the for the benefit of neighbouring plants. This is achieved via a symbiotic relationship with ‘Rhizobium’ bacteria.

Some species of plants, such as peas, beans, legumes, lucerne (alfalfa) and various clovers offer beneficial effects to surrounding plants by improving the fertility of the soil, and as a result, the yield and health of the plants grown alongside them.

Nitrogen fixing plants take nitrogen directly from the atmosphere, then converts it to soil-enriching nitrogen compounds.

GREEN MANURES

Green manures and nutritional mulches consist of plants such as those of the Papilionaceae family – sweet peas, bauhinias, mimosoideae. This species have toots with nitrogen from the soil and converts it to available form for the plants to use as food. Lupins, peanuts and clover also fall into this category.

TRAP PLANTING – Trap Cropping

Companion planting includes the use of a method known as ‘trap cropping’. Plants are grown and used to lure undesirable insects away from vulnerable species. Other plants then act as a refuge to beneficial insects including hoverflies, lacewings, predatory mites, ladybirds (ladybugs) and various species of wasps.

Some companion plants can be used as attractants or ‘trap plants’ to act as bait and draw a particular pest away from a crop onto another plant. In effect, these trap plants will be sacrificed for the good of the main crop.

ATTRACTANTS

Attract beneficial insects by dotting parsley, dill, lavender and perfumed shrubs throughout the garden.

Plant borage, dill, German chamomile, nasturtium, pineapple sage and elder to attract grub and insect eating birds into the garden.

INSECT REPELLING PLANTS

Some plants exude chemicals from their roots or aerial parts that suppress or repel pests and protect neighbouring plants. The roots of some plants exude a variety of active chemicals which repel nematodes (microscopic worms that burrow into the tissue of plants such as tomatoes).

Some species of plants are known for their excellent insect repelling qualities. Such plants are sage, rosemary, southernwood, lavender, thyme, sweet marjoram, hyssop, nasturtium, tansy, pennyroyal and chives.

*
Joanne
Sacred Scribes

ORGANIC PEST CONTROL - Recipes and Remedies

2016-07-02T11:37:00.000+10:00

The very best form of natural pest control is to grow healthy plants so that they are able to look after themselves. As a starting point, give your plants the right amount of food, soil, moisture and sunshine.

You can adopt an organic approach to pest control by making regular patrols on the plants in order to identify such pests as caterpillars, aphids, mites, red spiders and the like. Check your vegetables well, particularly looking under lettuce and cabbage leaves, and on beans, peas and carrots.

Beneficial (predator) insects such as Ladybirds (ladybugs), wasps, lacewings and dragonflies should be encouraged. All ‘pests’ are food for their predators and by killing them all off you are cutting down the chances that predators will build up enough to do the job of ‘pest control’ for you. Therefore, use sparingly.

Organic, natural pest control can be done easily and cleverly, and can be very efficient and effective.

The following are just a few excellent recipes for organic gardeners.

BORDEAUX MIXTURE - Brown rot, curly leaf, black spot, mildew

Bordeaux is a standard organic fungicide. It can be used when plants are dormant, generally during the winter months. It can be used on all citrus or cool days, when there are no blossoms on the trees. Bordeaux is effective for brown rot, curly leaf, black spot and other bacterial, fungal and mildew problems. Spray grapevines when the shoots are less than 100cm long, for black spot and powdery mildew.

Always make Bordeaux mixture fresh as it doesn’t keep and will begin to separate after an hour or so, therefore it must be used soon after preparation.

Bordeaux Recipe

Mix 90 grams of blue copper sulphate with 4.5 litres (1 gallon) of cold water, in a non-metallic container.

In another non-metallic container, mix 125 grams of slaked lime (not agricultural lime) in 4.5 litres (1 gallon) of cold water. Mix the two together and stir well.

Test the mixture using an old nail. Dip the nail into the mixture for around 30 seconds. If the nail comes out blue, you need to add more lime, or at least, more stirring and mixing in order to dissolve the lime. Do NOT use the mixture until the problem is corrected, otherwise you may burn your plants.

The mixture can be used with any spray equipment. Keep some fresh, clean water on hand to wash out nozzles to keep them clear of clogging.

Spray in early winter or only spray every second row, finishing off the rest ten days later.

Take care not to use too much Bordeaux as it will cut down the numbers of natural predators around during Spring time.

BUG SPRAY - Fruit-sucking Beetles

Collect as many of your pest insects, bugs and beetles and put them in a container. Add water, then place in a blender. Blend well, then transfer to a spray bottle.

Spray mixture on all the plants that you do not want those particular bugs, insects and beetles to inhabit. The smell of the dead bugs acts as a deterrent.

CHAMOMILE TEA SPRAY - Black spot, scab, mildew, brown rot, rust

Chamomile tea can be used as a very mild fungicide. Use it for early mildews and fungal problems, and for brown rot on fruit.

To make, cover a handful of flowers in boiling water, or use a Chamomile teabag, according to the directions on the pack. Allow to cool then transfer to a clean sprayer bottle.

CHIVE SPRAY - Rust, brown rot

Grab a handful of fresh chives and place in a container. Cover with water and allow to steep. When cooled, strain off water, then place in a sprayer bottle. Spray on all plants affected by rust.

COMFREY SPRAY - Rust, brown rot, black spot

Take a handful of Comfrey and cover with fresh water for at least 2 to 3 weeks. Strain and place in a spray bottle.

DEHYDRATED FLOUR - Cherry slug, pear slug

Dust small cherry and pear trees with dehydrated flour, as this will act as a stomach poison to pear and cherry slugs.

EGGSHELLS - White butterflies

As a decoy for White butterflies (or cabbage moths), place eggshells under and around cabbages and all brassicas.

Broken eggshells can also be used as a deterrent for snails and slugs. Place the crushed eggshells around any plants you wish to keep snails and slugs away from. The slugs/snails find it difficult to cross the broken eggshells.

GLUE SPRAY - Aphids, white fly, harlequin bugs, mites, whooly aphids

Mix 1 cup of white flour with 1 cup of boiling water - then mix in cold water. Stir until it is of a thick consistency. Strain out any lumps through a sieve.

Place into a spray bottle for use on small plants, and a larger, pump-action sprayer for high plants and trees. Spray the top of leaves as well as underneath, ensuring that the entire surface is covered.

Either wait for the glue to peel off, or wash off in rain naturally, or hose the plant down after 24 hours. (Ensure that you clean out the sprayer nozzle and bottle, otherwise the glue will set and that will be the end of it)

MILK SPRAY - Black spot, mildew, brown rot, mites, apple and pear scab, mold, fungi

Mild spray makes an effective remedy for stopping the spread of downy mildew, mold, fungi and bacterial problems.

Spray full cream mild onto affected areas of the plant.

In hot weather dilute 1 cup of full cream milk to 9 cups of water. This is to ensure that young foliage and flower buds don’t burn.

MILK and BICARBONATE OF SODA - Brown rot, mildew, scab, black spot

Make up ‘Milk Spray’ as above, adding 1 teaspoon of Bicarbonate of Soda - and transfer to a spray bottle.

NETTLE SPRAY - Brown rot

Take a handful of Nettle and cover with fresh water for at least 2 to 3 weeks. Strain and bottle.

OIL SPRAY - Aphids

Oil sprays work by covering the insects and/or their eggs with a light film of oil, suffocating them.

Take 1 kilogram of soap for every 8 litres of oil. Boil and stir vigorously until totally dissolved. Dilute this with 20 times the volume of water.

This spray will separate quickly, so it is unable to be stored. Therefore, use immediately.

Use oil sprays only when the temperature is below 24C, otherwise the oil may cause leaf damage.

PYRETHRUM - Bugs

Pyrethrum is a broad spectrum spray made from pulverized pyrethrum flowers (Chrysanthemum cinerariafolium). Pyrethrum kills bugs, but has low toxicity for animals and humans. Beware though that Pyrethrum also kills bees, so be sure to only use it in the evenings.

Take 1 tablespoon of Pyrethrum powder or 2 tablespoons of flowers. Cover with oil and leave to steep overnight. Strain fully, then add 1 litre of water and mix well. Use immediately.

SEAWEED SPRAY - Powdery mildew, brown rot

Seaweed strengthens a plant’s resistance to a range of infections as well as makes them resistant to frost. It can be also be used as a preventative measure against brown rot. Seaweed is also said to help fruit set.

Seaweed solutions can be commercially bought, but to make your own Seaweed spray:

Wash salt from seaweed and cover with fresh water for at least 3 weeks. Strain off as much water as required, then dilute it until it is the colour of very weak tea. Place in a spray bottle and use when required.

SNAIL SOUP - Repels snails and slugs

To repulse snails and slugs, collect as many as you can, then place in a container and cover with water. Put a lid on the container and put aside for 3 or 4 days, allowing the snails and slugs to ferment. Strain, then spray where you don’t want slugs and snails to invade.

TOOTHBRUSHES - Aphids, mites, thrips, bean fly

Although a toothbrush is not a ‘recipe’ as such, it is an effective tool to use to scrape and brush off small bugs such as aphids, bean fly, mites and thrips from the leaves and stems.

URINE - Apple and pear scab, mildew

Human urine is sterile (unless the donor has a urinary tract infection) although it does not remain sterile when stored, therefore, must be used as fresh as possible.

Spray the full strength urine on dormant trees, at least twice in winter. Use it diluted with ten parts water on summer mildew problems.

Spray apple and pear trees for scab with diluted urine when ¾ of the blossom has fallen.

Human urine is said to be an excellent tonic for all citrus trees.

WASABI (Indonesian Fish Sauce) - Repels kangaroos, wallabies and possums

Make a spray by using 6 parts water to 1 part Wasabi. Spray thickly, drenching the plant and/or area.

WHITE PEPPER - Aphids, bugs

Sprinkle White Pepper (thickly) to repel bugs and aphids. Sprinkle again after rain or watering. You can also mix the pepper well with soapy water so it is able to stick.

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Joanne
Sacred Scribes