Frugal Hydroponics

Fastes and Easiest System to Get Started!!

2015-01-12T11:46:00.001-06:00

Without a doubt, the fastest and easiest way to get started growing indoors!

Heat! (I'm Too Hot to Keep My Leaves)

2014-04-11T10:03:00.000-05:00

An increase in heat to high levels or a sudden "shock" of a severely hot day can trigger leaf yellowing and drop. Many times the leaves will drop very quickly with only slight yellowing.

This "yellowing of leaves" is a simple survival reaction by the plant that allows it to conserve moisture. Wilting and scorching can also present itself as further effects of intense heat.

For indoor grows, this is commonly from placement or growth too near the lights. This is especially true of High Intensity Discharge (HID) lighti9ng systems which generate significant heat. A few days of strong growth and the upper leaves may be well into the 130 degree plus range of these bulbs.

For outdoor plants, consider the location in relation to reflective items or areas that store and contain heat such as sunken beds, areas around sheds and buildings, or near reflective surfaces and asphalt.

Solutions for both of these factors usually involves moving the plant or providing shade. I'll cover some shade recipes and ideas in the future.

Some simple steps for avoiding heat injuries to your plants......

Move the plants away from the culprit (duh!).

Add additional soil to lower the overall plant temperature.

Add shading.

Keep plants at least 8-12 inches below HID bulbs and at least 2-3 inches from LED, and T5 and T8 bulbs.

Move the pants to full or partial shade if the type requires that environment. No sense in killing a plant that has no business in the sun!

Cold Shock (Yellow Leaves)

2014-01-15T15:25:00.002-06:00

Were the plants, especially potted plants subjected to a sudden drop of temperature such as being near a window on a cold night or a power outage? The plant may yellow some lower leaves and drop them to conserve energy for what appears to be a "crisis.

First things first....get the plant to a stable environment with a room temperature within the recommended range of the plant. Second, re-plant to a larger pot if additional temperature drops are expected in the future. The additional capacity of soil will help insulate the plant and reduce the amount of shock during the cool-down periods.

Plants generally recover quite easily from unexpected cold shocks. Give it a couple weeks to sprout additional leaves or to halt any yellowing that may remain present.

Plant Age (Yellow Leaves)

2013-12-31T08:51:00.000-06:00

Yellowing of older or "bottom" leaves may simply be a sign of age and the natural growth during the plant life cycle.

Check the new growth or "upper" leaves for signs of yellowing along the veins. If there is no yellowing and the new growth appears healthy, it is very likely you have natural dying of older growth leaves and have nothing to fear. This process is essential for the plant to maintain it's strength as it shifts nutrient uptake to the new growth.

Relax! But keep an eye on new growth leaves for any signs of discoloration. Let those bottom leaves drop off and pop them into the compost pile!

More to come.

Why are my leaves yellow?

2013-12-27T11:22:00.001-06:00

Why are my leaves turning yellow?

Some common reasons for leaf yellowing:

1) Plant age
2) Cold
3) Heat
4) Depleted nutrients
5) Sudden shock or change of conditions
6) Injury to plant
7) Lack of oxygen
8) Disease.

I'll take a detailed look at each of these conditions over the coming weeks and add some timely "tips" and "remedies" to keep your babies healthy.

Deep Water Culture and Ebb and Flow

2013-12-20T09:28:00.000-06:00

Here is a Deep Water Culture and Ebb and Flow System side by side comparison video. Both are excellent systems and provide very efficient results.

Which one works best? See the past blog entries on each systems attributes and weaknesses.

Don't forget to "Like" us on Facebook.

#4 Why a Deep Water Culture System?

2013-11-16T15:24:00.000-06:00

Why Deep Water Culture System?

Number 4) Easy to clean!!! Cleaning the system is always required after each grow to prevent any type of alage or fungus from taking advantage of your "perfect" environment. The Deep Water Culture System is probably the easiest to clean.

Simply add a couple gallons of warm-hot water to the empty reservoir, add dish soap, the net pots (empty), and the airline tubing, and clean with a medium brush or dish rag. Once fully rinsed, add another 2 gallons of hot water with a 1/4 to 1/2 cup of bleach and sanitize everything to include the air stone. Rinse thoroughly and let dry.

Too easy!!!

# 3 Why A Deep Water Culture System?

2013-10-19T07:55:00.002-05:00

Why DWC? Number 3).

Highly EFFICIENT and EFFECTIVE.

Grow faster, stronger, and healthier plants without soil. My recorded results have shown increased harvest season and faster maturity over even the best prepared soils. These results are documented in the videos and the blog and amaze me to this day.

Nutrients and oxygen are delivered at just the right amount to insure the most explosive growth possible. Consider these factors and it is no wonder that a Deep Water Culture System is a model of efficiency in growing plants.

Why Deep Water Culture #2

2013-09-08T10:46:00.001-05:00

Why DWC? Number 2).

Portable! The system is easy to move as one complete unit allowing maximum use of shade and sun. "Bubbling Bucket" DWC's can be moved easily by one person as long as the plant is supported!

Consider the weight of the nutrient solution if you are designing a "mobile" Deep Water Culture System.

"Bubbler Buckets" weigh in at around 40 pounds for the nutrient solution alone. At 8 pounds per gallon, consider the need for draining or a two-person lift before finalizing your plans.

Also consider whether the reservoir has the strength to be moved while full or partially full. No one wants a sloshing reservoir buckling and collapsing during a simple move from room to room or under lights to outdoors.

Deep Water Culture Versus Ebb and Flow

2013-06-20T08:21:00.002-05:00

Continuing the "Deep Water Culture vs. Ebb and Flow" topic.....

Why DWC? Number 1). So cheap and easy to build with easily accessible parts!!!

Number 9) Why use an Ebb and FLow System?

2013-05-13T09:58:00.000-05:00

Here's the 2nd Ebb and Flow Video showing use, lighting changes and details, and some additional "cycling" and nutrient tips.

Considering the previous eight "why Ebb and Flow", it is a tough system to beat both economically and for efficiency. It was by far the most fun to build!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJn1dOB9UOs

Number 8) Why use an Ebb and Flow System?

2013-05-01T11:19:00.000-05:00

BIG plants do not need to be staked and supported when checking and changing nutrients as with a Deep Water Culture system.

Change the nutrients while your babies remain undisturbed!

Number 7) Why use an Ebb and Flow System?

2013-04-21T08:50:00.004-05:00

One large reservoir can feed multiple flood tables allowing many expansion opportunities!

Number 6) Why Use an Ebb and Flow System?

2013-04-05T08:16:00.000-05:00

Number 6) The Ebb and Flow System is just plain cool to a gizmo nut! Controlled flooding and draining provides an exceptional growth environment while allowing the plants a versatile and stable growth platform.

45,000 Page Views!!!!!

2013-03-26T12:03:00.001-05:00

Wow! 45,000 page views!

Thank you everyone for your interest in hydroponic growing. I suspect we now have many, many more "hydro" gardeners growing their own and enjoying a very productive hobby. I am glad to have contributed to this in even the smallest of ways!!

I'll keep the blog up and running as well as the facebook page. Don't forget to "subscribe" to the Youtube page as well.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Frugal-Hydroponics/178725932158360?ref=hl

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/misterhalfwaythere1/videos?view=0

Thanks again for the great comments and input. It is greatly appreciated!

H

Number 5) Why use an Ebb and Flow System?

2013-03-17T09:43:00.000-05:00

So easy to build and maintain!!!

Number 4 Why Use an Ebb and Flow System?

2013-03-03T14:49:00.001-06:00

Number 4)

Flow cycles can be adjusted to maximize nutrient uptake. Use a journal to quickly determine the most efficient ebb and flow cycle to save even more electricity.

Be as specific as possible when recording your results as this data becomes very valuable in making accurate decisions. Experiment with feeding cycles in conjunction with light cycles.

Number 3 Why Use an Ebb and Flow System?

2013-02-25T08:33:00.003-06:00

The Ebb and Flow system allows changing of nutrients and pH testing without disturbing the plants. A valve on the reservoir tanks makes it even easier!

Number 2 Why Use an Ebb and Flow System?

2013-02-10T11:52:00.002-06:00

Number 2)

The Ebb and Flow system provides a "blast" of oxygenated nutrients to the roots for short periods allowing the media to hold and maintain moisture during the ebb cycles. This gives the roots a larger quantity of fresh air expose and stimulates the plants natural reaction of expanding the root base.

Why Use an Ebb and Flow System?

2013-02-05T08:44:00.001-06:00

Number 1)

The Ebb and Flow system allows flexibility in nutrient temperature because of the separate reservoir. By having the ability to shade, mechanically cool (chiller), or even partially bury a nutrient reservoir, efficient temperatures can be maintained in the heat of the summer or the dead of winter. This keeps the roots from excesses and stress.

Deep Water Culture Hydroponics Video

2013-01-08T09:50:00.000-06:00

Still the easiest and cheapest way to get growing with hydroponics. The Deep Water Culture is simple yet effective, and is perfect for beginners and those with little room.

I have had several discussions on DIY kits lately, so here is the "how to" of the Deep Water Culture System.

Why do I use Silica Stone?

2012-12-30T13:54:00.000-06:00

Why do I use Silica Stone? 1) Silica stone is completely reusable after a thorough cleansing and it will not clog over time.......

Why do I use Silica Stone? 2)The internal porosity allows the granules to absorb moisture and to slowly release it back to the plant as required. As a result of the uniquely shaped granules, the media achieves an excellent air to water ratio in the pot. This is particularly important to discouraging root rot while encouraging oxygen flow and healthy root formation.

Why do I use Silica Stone? 3) It does not break down like other media, and can used to successfully cultivate plants from seedling to specimen. Silica stone's composition is predominantly silicon dioxide, which results in the media slowly releasing silica to the plant, which is particularly important to cell growth.

Why do I use Silica Stone? 4) When lining the bottom of a pot with silica stone, the silica stone acts as a reserve reservoir so plants can get the extra moisture they need in the later stages of growth. They then slowly add micro-nutrients into the root zone for further growth and disease resistance.

And finally....Why do I use Silica Stone? 5) They do not roll around and under things when accidentally (and inevitably) dropped as does hydroton. Marbles everywhere!!!!

Additional "Tips" Part 2 (Support)

2012-09-11T11:31:00.000-05:00

With the inherent ability of hydroponics to grow large plants in a relatively small container, care must be taken in providing support for the plant as it grows.

Lettuce and most greens are easy since they tend to grow "bushy" and fill "out" over the container. Tomatoes and other fruiting plants tend to expand vertically in a bigger proportion than horizontally and considerable force is then exerted on the small container base. Since the roots are "free floating" and provide no real support, the risk of a plant toppling is real and can cause many problems not only to the plant, but to the system itself and other plants in the area.

An easy technique is to find the appropriate size tomato "hoop" as can be found in any box store or garden center. These work well "upside down" because they provide a solid base on the floor. Measure first to insure the bottom hoops will fit over the reservoir and onto a solid, flat surface. Be very careful of the exposed ends since they will now be on top and at eye level. Bending them inwards and curving downward should alleviate this hazard. Square hoops work as well, but again, insure the hoop will fit before purchasing.

But since this is about "frugality", a stick trellis is probably the best method for not only cost, but flexibility in size and strength. Gather three to four 6'-8' sticks or branches of about 1" - 2" diameter. Lay them out in the sun for a few days to dry and expose any bugs that have hitch-hiked to birds or to the sunlight. This is especially true if you will be using them indoors. Trim any remaining branches and bark to aid in tying the plants to the supports.

Once dried and ready, simply build a "teepee" around the base of the reservoir or container and fasten the meeting point with twine or wire. Some bracing may be needed around the base to prevent the legs from sliding, but once there is weight from the plant they tend to stay in place quite well.

As the plant grows, use discarded nylons torn into strips as a means to secure the plant to the legs. Another option is cheap yarn, but the key is to find a material that is flexible and will not cause abrasions to the plant such as would wire, zip-ties, or zero-stretch string.

Use your imagination in suport techniques and allow the plant all the room it needs to grow while preventing the dreaded "tip-over"!!

Some helpful hydroponics tips

2012-08-27T10:23:00.000-05:00

I thought I would share some things learned over time. Some the hard way.

* When adding nutrients after a complete or partial cleaning, use a milk jug to mix the entire batch of nutrients in one gallon of water. This allows the ability to shake and mix very well without having to stir the entire reservoir which can be quite messy! Add a couple gallons of fresh water and turn the aerator back on. Slowly add the one gallon mix to the reservoir. Fill the remainder of the reservoir with water and slowly stir if needed. This tip can greatly speed up the process as well as insure the nutrients are much more thoroughly mixed.

* If using tap water from a treated source, let it stand for 24 hours with the container lid removed. This will allow chlorine or other sanitizing chemicals to dissipate preventing any reactions with the plants or nutrients.

* Reuse your media by soaking soak in a bath of 1/4 cup bleach to five gallons of water. Rinse well with cool water and let dry before bagging.

* Check your pH at a minimum every other day. Daily after 1/2 the expected use time.

* Record each of your actions in a journal for easy reference. You will be amazed at how often you need to recall a nutrient change, harvest, light change, germination length, or transplanting method. I set up my journal specific to each batch from seed germination through final tear down and cleaning.

More tips to follow.......

Keeping Out the Light (And Algae)

2012-04-07T17:54:00.000-05:00

How do you keep the light of your nutrient solution?

Nutrient solution is ready and willing to grow some incredible algae (and the ugly side effects) with just a little artificial or actual sunlight. Since algae spores are everywhere, a nice bath of highly oxygenated and nutrient rich liquid is a perfect "swamp" to set up a nice colony. Once algae gets established, the fight is on and this is a fight that is easily avoided.

Since the solution is below the medium level, it is easy to assume that no light can penetrate, but in reality, it can and will easily penetrate coir, hydroton, silica stone, or any other medium. All it needs is a few hours to establish, so prevention is the key. And it is relatively easy.

Simple light-proof coverings are all that is needed. The nice little black, neoprene covers are great and can be found in any hydro shop or catalog. They are made to fit any net pot size and have a convenient slot of which the stem is tightly surrounded. Since it is neoprene and can "stretch", it can grow with your plant. It is also durable and washable as needed.

Another item is Mylar. This is the stuff those crazy balloons and emergency blankets are made of and with a little research, can be found cheaply. Since it can also be used as a more efficient solution to aluminum foil in reflecting lights towards the plants, hydro shops and catalogs sell rolls of it. It is easy to work with and keeps every one of those valuable photons working to help your plant grow.

I happened to find some closeout emergency blankets or "space blankets" as they are commonly called and ended up with the equivalent of several sheets for just a couple bucks. It cuts easily and can be easily taped or glued to the surface of a DWC or Ebb and Flow Table. Just cut some slots for the plant's stem to slide through and you are set. Not only have you protected your solution from algae's much needed light waves, but you have added additional reflective properties to your grow area. Use some of the extra Mylar to drape along the sides of the grow area as well. Every photon counts!

Do a little research and internet searches for these blankets before committing to a roll of the full retail stuff. It's always nice to save a few extra bucks since this is "Frugal Hydroponics"!