One of the most popular anti-aging serums right now at Sephora, Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8 ($150.00, Amazon.com) certainly sounds advanced and enticing, with “peptide K8″ and “patented HSC complex” to make skin “youthful, healthy, and fresh.”  But what does current research say about the ingredients?  Read on to find out…

Palmitoyl oligopeptide: Not my favorite peptide

There are a number of peptides on the market right now (palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, Matrixyl3000^® and Argireline^®, to name a few) that have been shown in scientific studies to stimulate the production of extracellular matrix proteins, including collagen and fibronectin.  These peptides, in effect, make the skin firmer.

However, Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8 contains palmitoyl oligopeptide.  What is great about palmitoyl oligopeptide is that it, like other prominent peptides, significantly stimulates collagen production in human fibroblasts, as shown in a 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy. On the other hand, palmitoyl oligopeptide has been found to down-regulate elastin expression. From one point of view, this is not a bad thing –  elastin expression naturally increases with age, but the elastin cross-fibers grow in a less organized pattern than in individuals at a younger age, so down-regulating unorganized elastin expression may keep your elastin fibers from growing in an aged, disorganized pattern.   Yet, products that have been shown to stimulate elastin production (like one of my favorites, Relastin Eye Silk) also increase the firmness of the skin, so down-regulating elastin expression may not be a good thing, either.  With that said, if Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8 contained, say, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 instead of palmitoyl oligopeptide, I’d be an even bigger fan.

Dermaxyl: Proposed to Redirect Cellular Activity and Reduce Facial Contractions

One of the more exciting ingredients in this product is Dermaxyl, which is a combination of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Tribehenin, Ceramide 2, PEG 10 Rapeseed Sterol, and the aforementioned Palmitoyl Oligopeptide.  In specific, Dermaxyl has been designed to be a dual-action compound that contains both a matrikine (a peptide that mediates cellular activity) and a compound called Calmosensine (which contains a cutaneous neuromediator to reduce facial contractions).   Dermaxyl has been proposed to help attract cells to sites that need repair and to contribute to reconstruction of the dermis, according to the text The Design and Development of Anti-Aging Formulations.

Unfortunately, while this sounds wonderful in theory, there is a limited amount of research conducted on the compound thus far outside of Sederma, the manufacturing company of Dermaxyl.  For instance, although Dermaxyl can attract cells to sites that need repair in the dermis, does it actually get to the dermis following application of a cream like Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8?  (Most ingredients in skin care definitely do not get through to the dermis).  While Sederma’s studies look great – they can be viewed in PDF format here – I honestly would like Dermaxyl better if there was more non-company affiliated research further substantiating the claims.  At any rate, however, Dermaxyl is definitely something I will research more in the future.

Babassu Seed Oil

Babassu seed oil is bound to be doubly popular in upcoming years: not only is it a natural ingredient, but it also contains omega-3 and omega-6, which aid in inflammation and acts as an emollient to the skin.  When applied, Babassu seed oil also provides a pleasant, velvety feeling on the skin, which is more appealing than some other occlusive emollients, like glycerin or urea.  Bottom line:  Look for babassu seed oil in skin care a lot in the future.

Overall Opinions

Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8 is a very hydrating moisturizer.  Although it is lightweight, it contains a lot of hydrating ingredients that may make this a better choice for dry or normal/combination skin than oily skin.  (As always, consult with your dermatologist before trying this or any other product).  It is not likely to aid in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, or rosacea.  However, it may aid a bit in the prevention/treatment of wrinkles and in maintaining/increasing skin’s firmness through somewhat increased collagen production.

Overall, I appreciate the hydration and anti-aging ambition of Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8.  While I wish that it contained a different peptide and that its Dermaxyl compound had more independent research backing, I think that most customers will find this to be a luxurious “high-tech” indulgence, and I’m willing to bet Kate gets a lot of repeat customers on this one!

Ingredients in Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8

Water, Stearic Acid, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Squalane, Cholesterol, Urea, Sodium PCA, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Silk Powder, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan Gum, Polyquaternium-51, Trehalose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Fragrance, Allantoin, Limonene, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ceramide 2, Citric Acid, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Tribehenin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Triacetin, Copper PCA, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzoic Acid, Geraniol, Disodium EDTA.

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Fabulous: All About 50 Top Beauty Bloggers of 2010 will include:

• Insights into the state of the blogosphere
• 9 steps to get started on your own beauty blog
• The #1 way to attract people to read your blog (can’t miss this!)
• Why beauty blogging is now an integral part of the beauty business at large
• Information on the goals and lifestyles of successful beauty bloggers
• Product recommendations
• Tips on how to create (or improve) a beauty blog
• Exclusive profiles of 50 of the top beauty bloggers on the internet today!

To reserve your copy, please e-mail nicki[at]futurederm[dot]com.

P.S. – I still have a few spots left!  If you or someone you know is a beauty blogger and would like to be considered for the book, please contact me at nicki[at]futurederm[dot]com by November 10, 2009.

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Steamed Vegetable Buns Bento Originally uploaded by Jason + Amanda – allergyfriendlypastries.com

You just gotta love your readers – yesterday, one of mine asked a very insightful question about nutraceuticals, and I was like, “Wow, I’ve never featured those on my blog!”  So today is the day.    (Thank you, Carla!)

Nutraceuticals are simply nutritious products that have proposed or confirmed pharmaceutical applications, whether in the prevention or treatment of disease.  Examples include antioxidants like green tea, vitamins C and E, and resveratrol.

The market for nutraceuticals is currently growing strong, with ICIS.com reporting 7.4% sales growth in the nutraceuticals field from 2008 to 2009, making the overall global market reaching a cool $117.53 billion.  Not too shabby.

But Do Nutraceuticals Work?  Science Says Yes…

According to this 2008 study in The Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, nutraceuticals have incredible potential in aiding the skin, as it found that eating an ingredient is more beneficial than topically applying it. However, the study further suggests that both eating and topically applying a beneficial ingredient provides the most benefits.  (This may be the reason it is rumored that Dr. Fredric Brandt, M.D., a renowned dermatologist, drinks numerous cups of green tea each day and includes it is his skin care line).

One of the newest companies to feature nutraceuticals is BORBA, which has lines that feature topical and edible products for Age Defying (with Açaí), Firming (Guanábana), Replenishing (Lychee), and Clarifying (Pomegranate).  Of these, my favorite is the Clarifying (Pomegranate), which has been shown in independent studies to have anti-aging antioxidant activity plus the benefits of supplementing UV protection, according to the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology.  I personally like the BORBA Clarifying Water with Pomegranate ($28.00 for fourteen packets or $36.00 for twelve bottles, Amazon.com) used with the BORBA Clarifying Complexion Night Moisturizer ($26.10, Amazon.com).

The History and Future of Nutraceuticals

In the past, nutraceuticals have been used in skin care lines such as that of Dr. Howard Murad, who suggested using supplements in complement with topical skin care ages ago.  Furthermore, many patients note that their skin looks better when they eat more fruits and vegetables (i.e., antioxidants), ingest more soluble fiber (i.e., less inflammation than from white sugar), and drink more water.  This makes scientific as well as common sense: if the skin is the body’s largest organ, it should look and feel better when you are living in a healthy way.  With that said, I personally love nutraceuticals, whether through an established line like BORBA or through eating healthfully and using scientifically proven, ingredient-rich topical skin care separately.

Overall opinion:  This one’s a winner, and I bet we’ll see a lot more of nutraceuticals in the future!

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In today’s science-based cosmeceutical market, about 5% of products contain nanoparticles.  According to a statement from Ken Chosmitek, a research engineer for Microfluidics, “Nanoencapsulation…can reduce the amount of active ingredients needed [to have the same effect].”  That means decreased amounts of ingredients used by the manufacturer, and increased efficacy for you (as ingredients penetrate the skin farther).

But are nanoparticles harmful for you?  Although there is great speculation of such – from reputable blogs to “safety-first” organic skin care companies - the scientific studies on products thus far have demonstrated a high level of safety for many products containing nanoparticles.  One of these studies, conducted by scientists at L’Oreal, found that micronized particles (including of the popular micronized ingredient titanium dioxide) do not penetrate the skin deeply or cause damage.  According to the scientists, “…the fear that nanoparticles can penetrate the skin, get access to the lymphatic system and circulate around the organism is ’simplistic and physiologically improbable.”

Yet one concern that remains viable is nanoparticles’ potential to damage the environment.   Nanoparticles of titanium dioxide and certain other ingredients can be washed away into lakes, rivers, and streams, potentially killing beneficial microbes, according to Physorg.com.

Furthermore, not all ingredients are meant to be micronized.  Although L’Oreal scientists found that micronized titanium oxide (dioxide) and retinol are safe, the European Union recently voted to start investigating the use of copper nanoparticles in self-tanners in 2012.   Which means that nanoparticles may be small, but they can do mighty good or harm, depending on their context.

Overall, then, the future of nanoparticles in skin care and cosmetics remains to be seen.  My favorite skin care products containing nanoparticles are L’Oreal Advanced Revitalift Night Cream with micronized retinol ($16.79, Amazon.com), the Yves Saint Laurent Touche de Eclat Concealer ($40.00, YvesSaintLaurent.com) with what appear to be micronized reflective particles*, and California Baby SPF 30+ Sunscreen Lotion (2 pack, $33.00, Amazon.com) with micronized titanium dioxide.

Thoughts on nanoencapsulation in your skin care?  Let me know below! 

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Although I write mostly about skin care, occasionally I get e-mails from readers asking how to better manage their time or whatnot.  With that said, I believe that the best form of advice is empowering others to change their own lives.  And while I still have many dreams to achieve, here are the books that have helped me the most thus far in the process:

1.  Finding Your Own North Star, by Martha Beck.

If you’ve ever felt as though you’ve lost your way (or if you’ve never had a direction to travel in the first place), this is a fabulous book for you.  There is advice in here to find what you reallywant, a step-by-step plan to achieve it, and how to shed your fears and overcome the inevitable judgments of others along the way.  This book is both life-changing and phenomenal, and I recommend it to anyone who is sad, lethargic, angry – or someone who is just looking to consistently improve his life.  I’ve given copies to a bunch of my friends, who are great and always trying to improve further.  

2.  The Secret, by Rhonda Byrne.

Okay, I must admit, when I first skimmed over The Secret, it seemed a little too “mystical humbo-jumbo” for my practical taste.  (Like attracts like is not the way magnetic force works!  Grrrr!)   I walked on and grabbed another installment of the Shopaholic series.  Yet, after my boyfriend handed me a copy this summer and requested that I read it, I did – and it truly changed my life.  (My boyfriend is awesome.)  

Essentially, thoughts become things.  If you simply change every thought of “I can’t” to “I can,” any mention of “I should” to “I will,” and all “impossibles” to “possibles,” you empower yourself.  You change your outlook.  Slowly but surely, formerly helpless situations gain hope and a sense of perspective in your life.  It’s pretty powerful stuff, and while I must admit that I still don’t like some of the skewed scientific jargon, I still love the concept of this book.  

3.  Think and Grow Rich, by Napoleon Hill.

I was 23 and on a plane to NYC when the prominent older businessman sitting beside me struck up conversation.  He noticed that I was writing in my journal, the one that said “Dreams” on the cover.   By the end of the conversation, he arranged to send me this book, the one that helped his dreams come true.

If you want to make your dreams come true, you have to turn your desires from wishes to choices.   It turns out that the vast majority of highly successful people continuously follow a formulaic series of steps to achieve (and re-achieve) their success.  Whether these people do so consciously or subconsciously, it works the same.   I’ve employed these own techniques in studying for exams, and I’ve seen my scores improve.  I’ve employed these techniques to my personal life too (”rich” is much more than financial wealth here), and that’s going great too.  

One caveat with this one:  it is a bit verbose, sort-of like reading presidential speeches from the 1940’s.  As such, I recommend buying the audio book (as I did) and listening to it often.  

4.  Rich Dad, Poor Dad by Robert T. Kiyosaki and Sharon L. Lechter.

I love financial security and the idea of becoming very rich someday.  But I also have pretty luxurious tastes (Fendi shoes and Chanel handbags are favorites).  And for years, advice from most financial experts left me cold: I didn’t want to clip coupons (Nordstrom usually doesn’t take those, anyway) or sacrifice my Starbucks lattes.   There had to be another way.

So imagine my surprise when I picked up Rich Dad, Poor Dad and read that I don’t have to give up my lifestyle to become rich.  Instead of spending less, Kiyosaki simply suggests to earn more.  Lots more.  So much, in fact, that his advice has the potential to free you from the typical 9-5 job and retire 10, 20 years early.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.  After reading the books, I’ve gained a whole new perspective on what my financial goals are, discovered that saving is bad and investing is good, and learned to build assets and limit liabilities.  In other words, I’ve gained knowledge and made a plan, and it’s extremely freeing.  And while it may not mean that I can buy my Lady Dior handbag today, it does mean that I know I will earn the money to bring her home soon.  

5.  The Top 10 Distinctions Between Millionaires and the Middle Class by Keith Cameron Smith.

What I love about this book is that it is short and simple.  I re-read it often, and almost every time, there’s a new tidbit of knowledge that comes flying out.  (For instance, did you know that it is more profitable to talk about ideas rather than things or people?)

My only suggestion for this book involves the title.  Not all millionaires are ubiquitously rich.   “Ubiquitously rich” means that you are not only financially secure, but emotionally, physically, and spiritually as well.  And having a mil in the bank doesn’t exactly make you rich by that definition.  Conversely, some middle class people have great success in those areas.  One of my closest friends is a fantastic, beautiful, and religious person who has absolutely no interest in earning more money than needed to maintain a middle-class lifestyle.  And even though her income falls in the middle class range, to me, she’s rich.  

That little tidbit aside, the advice is amazing and jumps from the page – and can apply to all aspects of your life.

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Bluey’s new bandage from the cat attack

Originally uploaded by adria.richards

As many of you know, I had surgery last week, so while I am loving the fact that I am healthier, I am definitely not adoring the dreaded post-surgical scars.  Which raises a relevant question:  with all of the “healing” skin care out there, which methods work – and which are just hype?  FutureDerm investigates…

Vitamin E  

For years, doctors have been recommending vitamin E, a known blood thinner, to patients to prevent scarring.   Unfortunately, according to a 1999 study in Dermatologic Surgery, vitamin E may actually “be detrimental to the cosmetic appearance of a scar.” The study notes that 90% of patients’ scars were not improved or worsened with use of topical vitamin E oil.  This is mostly due to an allergic reaction known as contact dermatitis in some patients, which may exacerbate the scarring process.

Otherwise, for non-scarred skin, I still love vitamin E, because it has been shown to have higher antioxidant activity than ubiquinone, vitamin C, or lipoic acid.  I also love that it helps to protect skin from the sun (however, keep in mind that it is NOT a sunscreen!).  According to a 2001 study, also in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, “topical vitamin E prevents oxidative stress and cutaneous and systemic immunosuppression elicited by UV.” Sweet.   Overall:  For wound healing:  <1 star.  For healthy skin:  4 stars.

Mederma® 

Research on Mederma® is limited, and unfortunately, independent scientific studies demonstrate that use of Mederma® has no effect on healing, but may cause the incoming collagen fibers to grow in more evenly.   In the first study, from Harvard researchers and published in Dermatologic Surgery, it was demonstrated that there is no difference between Mederma and Aquaphor (a petrolatum-based moisturizer) when 24 patients used one or the other three times daily for eight weeks.  In fact, in this side-by-side, randomized, double-blinded, split-scar study, there was no difference in cosmetic appearance, erythema, hypertrophy, or patient-assessed side-specific erythema, pruritus, burning, and pain.  The second study, a 2002 experiment in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, used onion bulb extract-treated scars on rabbit ears.  The ears showed a statistically significant improvement in dermal collagen organization in comparison to scars that were not treated with Mederma (p < 0.05).  (No significant difference in dermal vascularity or inflammation was noted.)  The authors of the study proposed that improved dermal collagen organization could have an effect on hypertrophic scar formation, i.e., potentially reducing the formation or degree of raised scars.  While it would be better if Mederma® had more effects, I’d take more evenly-distributed collagen fibers anyday.  For wound healing:  3 stars.

Silicone Scar Healing Pads  

Perhaps the best, and the only truly effective, option.  According to a 2007 review in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, silicone gel sheeting is the only form of treatment effective against hypertrophic (raised) scars. The study considered popular treatments like Mederma, adhesive tape, and polyurethane, and concluded that only silicone gel sheeting has conclusive evidence for being effective in the treatment of raised scars. Who knew?  I myself purchased ScarAway Healing Pads ($66.22 for 12 sheets, Amazon.com) for my new surgical scars!  For wound healing:  5 stars.

Aloe Vera  

So here’s a shocker:  even though aloe vera has been a popular folk remedy since the 1930’s, aloe only has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, and it is uncertain whether aloe helps wounds heal or not.  This comes from a 1999 review of ten aloe vera-related studies, in which aloe vera’s efficacy in wound healing was concluded to be “unclear.” The review further states that aloe vera “might be effective for genital herpes and psoriasis” and that “topical application of aloe vera is not an effective preventative for radiation-induced injuries.”  Interesting indeed.  I think I’ll save the aloe vera for my friends’ sunburns and invest my money in the ScarAway Healing Pads and copper peptides…  For wound healing: 3 stars.

Copper 

Small concentrations of copper (GHK) peptides are proven in a number of scientific studies to increase collagen production and aid in wound healing.  However, in higher concentrations, copper peptides activate matrix metalloproteinase-2, an enzyme that breaks down collagen, according to a 1999 study in Nature.  It is highly possible that the reason collagen breaks down in these instances is part of the body’s way of regulating the stimulated production of collagen following copper peptide induction.  

Copper peptide-containing products are pretty hard to find, but recently Neova® sent me their Rapid Healing & Recovery Kit, featuring copper peptides.  I especially like the kit’s Post-Laser Lotion and which goes on like a balm, but really hydrates the area well.   For wound healing: 4 stars.

The Bottom Line

If you have a scar, scientific research most justifies applying silicone healing pads, then copper-containing products.  Surprisingly, aloe vera and Mederma are not as proven, and vitamin E might even be harmful.  With that said, even applying a basic $5 moisturizer can hydrate the skin and enable your skin to invest more of its energy into the healing process (provided, of course, that you do not have an allergic reaction to the lotion).  Personally, with my new surgical scars, I am proud to be using the silicone healing pads and copper peptides.

Got a favorite healing remedy?  Let me know in Comments below!  :-)

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don’t worry be happy new year

Originally uploaded by Dappers

I am currently proud to announce that I have started working with The Open Sky Project to bring my readers some of the most unique and effective skin care products on the web.  I will be running a store with The Open Sky Project featuring only products that I love which might be difficult for my readers to find in drugstores, department stores, or otherwise.   If there are any products you would love to see, please drop me a line at nicki[at]futurederm [dot]com, and I’ll consider it for the store!

In addition, I am working on a book, Fabulous:  All About Top Beauty Bloggers of 2010.  The book features exclusive profiles of approximately 50 of your favorite bloggers, and will feature insider tips, product recommendations, how beauty blogging is revolutionizing the beauty business, and how you can learn to start your own top beauty blog!  

If you are interested in a pre-order or e-mail when the book is available in December 2009, or in featuring your beauty product or service in the book (select advertising spaces are available!), please contact me at nicki [at] futurederm [dot] com.

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I will post as soon as I feel better.

Thank you for understanding!
<3,
Nicki

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Don’t be this guy!
Dandruff

Originally uploaded by baz_baziah

Recently I was granted the amazing opportunity to interview celebrity stylist Ryan Trygstad and celebrity dermatologist Dr. Marta Rendon, M.D., about dandruff and the surprising role it plays in hair care.   With up to 50% of all Americans having dandruff, it is definitely a prevalent concern.  Here are the most surprising facts I learned from the exclusive interview:

1.  You MUST use dandruff shampoo and dandruff conditioner together.

As Ryan Trygstad explained, “Many clients think they can get away with using the dandruff shampoo and their own conditioner, but this defeats the entire purpose.”  Using many of the regular, non-dandruff conditioners will render the active ingredient in dandruff shampoo, pyrithione zinc, ineffective.   Instead, the best way to keep dandruff away is to use a dandruff shampoo and its recommended complimentary conditioner.

2.  Dandruff is caused by a fungus – and Pyrithione zinc-based shampoos/conditioners need to be used 2-3 times a week perpetually to keep it away.

For years, dermatologists and other skin experts believed that dandruff was caused by a dry, flaking scalp.  However, since 1999, it has been established that the origin of dandruff has been found to be a yeast (fungus) called M. furfur. To keep M. furfur at bay, the experts interviewed recommended using a pyrithone zinc-based formula, like Head & Shoulders, 2-3 times a week on an ongoing basis.  As for those of us who are addicted to our luxury shampoos and conditioners, the experts said it may be permissable to use the Head & Shoulders until symptoms improve, and then return to our chosen formulas.

3.  Some products, like Head & Shoulders, are constantly being re-formulated to fight stronger strains of M. furfur (the yeast that causes dandruff).

One of my biggest questions for the experts was about the increased resistance of yeast over time:  If you use pyrithone zinc-based formulas 2-3 times per week against a given strain of yeast, doesn’t the strain become resistant, eventually rendering your dandruff shampoo/conditioner ineffective?  But as the experts informed me, Procter & Gamble invests millions of dollars per year in anti-dandruff research alone, and has continuously reformulates their Head & Shoulders formula over the past ten years to protect against increasing resistances of M. furfur.  (Sort-of like getting a new flu shot every year…pretty neat).  So while other companies may or may not follow similar reformulation strategies, it is pretty much a safe bet to always go with Head & Shoulders when you are noticing those unsightly white flakes.

4.  Rinsing is the most important part of using an anti-dandruff shampoo or conditioner.

As Dr. Marta Rendon, M.D. explained to me, most patients think that the application of product is the most important part of the anti-dandruff treatment process.  However, it is when you rinse that the zinc molecules are able to lay flat on the scalp, providing an even layer of treatment.  As such, it is vital that you rinse your hair well after using an anti-dandruff shampoo or conditioner.

5.  All pyrithione zinc is not created equal.

As the experts explained to me, many anti-dandruff formulas will have their pyrithione zinc in droplets, while Procter & Gamble has developed their Head & Shoulders to have larger molecules that cover larger surface area.  While the data has not been released to the public, the experts claim that this results in greater efficacy in a shorter amount of time.

Overall Opinions

First, before I go further, I want to address that while I was not remunerated in any way for the interview, the experts I interviewed were speaking on behalf of Head & Shoulders.  However, despite the experts’ association with the product, I found their insights to be both scientifically proven and largely unbiased.  Overall, I think that these little-known facts about dandruff treatment are fascinating – and I know that I will recommend Head & Shoulders to my patients with dandruff someday!

Thank you to both celebrity stylist Ryan Trygstad, celebrity dermatologist Dr. Marta Rendon, M.D., and PR agent Samara Finn for the amazing interview.

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Although I am a beauty blogger who tries lots of products, truth be told, I have really sensitive skin.  So when I heard about Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 3x ($64.00, Amazon.com), with all the benefits of retinol plus skin-soothing green tea polyphenols and hydrating hyaluronic acid, I was delighted.

Ingredients – Really Spectacular

The ingredients in Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 3x are top-notch:  retinoids are considered by many dermatologists to be the gold-standard of anti-aging, and while retinol is less potent than prescription tretinoin, it is still capable of producing profound results.

What makes this serum truly unique is its inclusion of a high concentration of green tea polyphenols, the active compounds of green tea (the most popular of which is epigallocatechin gallate).  The polyphenols in green tea have been found in a 2003 study in Molecular Epidemiology and Cancer Prevention to prevent UVB-induced oxidation of lipids and proteins in mice. In addition, according to Dr. Gary Goldfaden, M.D., “In a recent dermatological comparison study, the use of a lotion containing a tea extract produced a 70% improvement in rosacea compared to use of a lotion containing the base ingredients alone.” Verifying this is a 2003 study in the Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, which reports that green tea reduces UVB-induced inflammation.

Rounding out the ingredients in Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 3x is hyaluronic acid, which has been found to bind up to 1000 times its volume in water.  The hyaluronic acid hydrates the skin to the extent that it can make it temporarily look more hydrated, fresher, and younger.

Personal Use and Opinions

I was not sent Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 3x – I went out and bought it, and I must say, I find it to be a wonderful retinol serum for my sensitive skin.  It leaves my skin feeling soft and smooth – not dried out!    Other ways I have been able to get the benefits of retinol with sensitive skin include Green Cream Level 3 (and later 6, when my skin tolerated it) under hydrating moisturizers, or to a lesser extent with the Kinerase line, which has efficacy somewhere between 0.02% and 0.04% tretinoin.

Overall, I’m a huge fan!  Great product!

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