But it’s also easy to do badly. The town itself is busy, the sales pitches can be relentless, and plenty of people book the first tour they’re offered. So here’s how to get there on a backpacker budget, when to go, what a 2- or 3-day trek actually looks like, and how to keep your visit respectful of the community that lives there.

How to Get from Hanoi to Sapa

There’s no airport in Sapa and no train that goes all the way to town, so everyone arrives by road, or by a mix of rail and road.

The simplest and cheapest option is the sleeper bus. Buses and limousine vans run along the expressway to Lao Cai and drop you right in Sapa town in about 5.5 to 6 hours. A standard sleeper bus costs roughly $10 – 15, with a VIP cabin or limousine van a bit more. The big plus is that you arrive in town and can start walking the same morning, so if you’re on a budget, this is the one.

The overnight train is more atmospheric, but a bit more of a hassle. Trains leave Hanoi around 9–10 pm and reach Lao Cai at about 5:30 – 6 am. Lao Cai is 35 – 38 km below Sapa, so you still need around an hour on a public bus or minibus to reach town. And be wary of anyone selling you a “train ticket to Sapa” beyond Lao Cai because that rail no longer exists.

Many travelers mix the two, taking the bus up for a quick arrival and the train back for the experience. Whichever you pick, book a day or two ahead in busy months, and double-check the pick-up point, since Hanoi has more than one.

When to Go to Sapa

Sapa changes completely through the year, so it helps to decide what you want to see. From September to early October the terraces turn gold, which is peak season for photos. By late October and November it’s harvest time, and many terraces will already be cut, leaving earthy, post-harvest landscapes and crisp air. March to May is when the fields are flooded and planted before turning bright green, with comfortable trekking weather. And from November to March it’s properly chilly, so pack warm layers.

Our pick is June to August. The sky is at its clearest and the paddy fields are green all the way to the horizon. It’s also the low season for international visitors, which is good news if you’re watching your budget. Just bring a light waterproof jacket anyway, since summer can bring some rain.

What a 3-Day Sapa Trek Looks Like

The classic trek links a string of valley villages, with a night in a local homestay. We won’t spell out every stop here, but this is the shape of it.

You start with an easy first walk to a village close to town, one of the few you can visit without a guide. Then comes the main day: a full day of trekking through terraced slopes and valley villages home to Hmong, Dao and other ethnic groups (Ta Van is about 8 km from Sapa town), ending with a night in a homestay where dinner is usually shared with the family. On the last day you can add a longer loop if you want more time in the villages and less time on the road.

A local guide makes a big difference on the trekking day, both for finding your way and for understanding the people and the land you’re walking through. The tourism board recommends staying in lodges and homestays set among the terraces, away from the busiest parts of town, and we’d agree.

If you’d like help turning all this into a plan that fits your own dates, Holicay is a free trip planner where you can build, edit and save your Sapa route.

If Fansipan is on your list, the cable car is the easy route. Trekking up the mountain independently is a much bigger undertaking.

What to Pack

Pack for mud, mountain air and limited plug sockets. Shoes with real grip matter more than anything else, since the trails get muddy and steep. Add a light waterproof jacket and a warm layer for the evenings, a small daypack with water and snacks, and insect repellent and sun protection. Bring cash in small bills for markets, snacks and homestay extras, plus a power bank, because charging can be limited in village homestays.

Trekking Responsibly in Sapa

Sapa’s villages are people’s homes and working farms, not a theme park, so a little courtesy goes a long way. Ask before taking photos of people, and be gracious if they say no. If you want to buy something, buy directly from the women selling handicrafts, but don’t feel you have to buy from everyone. Stay on the trails and keep clear of crops and terraces, use local guides where you can (and ask what your tour actually pays them), and take your trash with you.

FAQ: Backpacking Sapa

Can you fly to Sapa? No. There’s no airport, so you travel by road or rail from Hanoi.

How long does it take to get from Hanoi to Sapa? About 5.5–6 hours by bus, or around 9 hours by overnight train including the transfer from Lao Cai.

Do I need a guide to trek in Sapa? Not for every village. Cat Cat and Ta Phin can be visited without one. For longer treks and homestays, a local guide is strongly recommended.

How many days do I need? Two to three days for a trek, plus travel time to and from Hanoi.

Planning Your Trip

Most people reach Sapa through Hanoi, so it’s worth giving the capital a couple of days first, then heading up to the mountains by sleeper bus or overnight train. If you’re stitching a few stops together, you can map the whole Vietnam route on Holicay and move things around as plans change.

Prices, schedules and entry requirements change, so check current details with the operator or official sources before you book. 

The post Backpacking Sapa: Trekking, Homestays & How to Get There appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

In this guide I’ll share my own experience with the tour, plus the bus option if you’d rather skip the multi-day tour.

If you are also traveling to Sucre in Bolivia, read my guide on how to get from Sucre to Uyuni (or vice versa) and my Sucre travel guide.

Option 1: 3-Day Uyuni Tour with Drop-Off in San Pedro de Atacama (Best Option)

Since you need to book a tour to visit the Uyuni salt flats anyway, combining it with your border crossing just makes sense. Instead of finishing the tour back in Uyuni and then spending another full day on a bus, the 3-day tour continues south through the altiplano and drops you off at the Chilean border, where a transfer takes you down to San Pedro de Atacama.

This is the option I chose, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

My Experience with the 3-Day Tour

I arrived in Uyuni from Sucre the evening before the tour and spent the night at the Casa De Sal salt hotel, so I was well rested and ready to start the next morning.

I had great luck with my group — I shared the jeep with really nice Bolivians, and my driver was very professional. Overall it was a 10/10 experience.

Here’s a day-by-day look at my tour, from the salt flats on the first day to crossing the border into Chile on the last.

Day 1 – Train Cemetery, Colchani and the Salt Flats

Our first stop was the train cemetery just outside Uyuni, where old rusty locomotives from the time Uyuni was a railway hub have been left in the desert.

From there we drove to the small village of Colchani, where we learned how salt is extracted from the salt flat, dried and packed by hand.

After lunch, we stopped at the salt sculptures, including the Dakar Rally monument and the Flags of the World, where travelers from all over the world have left flags from their home countries. It was very windy, so the flags were flapping loudly.

We also stopped at the stairs leading nowhere, a salt staircase in the middle of the white nothingness, and some other salt sculptures, which make for fun photos.

Then we headed deeper into the Salar de Uyuni — first to a part covered with water, and then to the dry salt, where the endless white flat is perfect for photos.

Photos are an important part of the experience here, and the drivers here are basically photographers too. If you’ve ever wondered why all the people visiting Uyuni have the same type of photos with dinosaurs and perspective tricks, now I know the answer: our driver just casually took a toy dinosaur and the mat from the car, put the dinosaur on the salt, lay down on the mat and started taking photos of us with the dinosaur.

He knew exactly where everyone should stand and put a lot of effort into getting the shots. The trick works because the salt flat is so flat and white that there’s nothing in the background to show distance, so anything close to the camera looks huge. If you want something more personal than the classic dinosaur photo, bring your own props, such as a water bottle, a hat or a small toy, and ask your driver for ideas. It’s silly, but it’s also one of the most fun parts of the whole tour.

For sunset, we drove to a part of the salt flat with water, where you get the famous glass effect — the sky reflects on the water so perfectly that it’s hard to tell where the ground ends and the sky begins. You can rent rubber boots there, so you don’t need to bring your own.

The first night we stayed in a basic salt hostel where the floor was sand, and it was cold. I shared the room with a Bolivian mother and daughter from my group. I had a bit of a headache from the altitude, so I asked the hotel for some coca leaves to chew before going to sleep.

Day 2 – Altiplano, Lagoons, Flamingos and the Stars

The second day was mostly driving through the altiplano, the high plateau between Bolivia and Chile, with volcanoes and colorful mountains all around us. One of the first stops was the viewpoint of the Ollagüe volcano, a semi-active volcano right on the border between Bolivia and Chile.

We stopped for lunch on the side of the road. As a vegan, my food was very basic: rice and veggies. If you have dietary requirements, let the tour company know in advance and bring some extra snacks.

Along the way, we found this weird green plant called yareta. It looks like a soft green rock or moss, but it’s actually a very dense, slow-growing plant that can be hundreds of years old.

On the way, we also stopped at the Árbol de Piedra (Stone Tree), a rock formation shaped like a tree that has been carved by the wind over thousands of years.

After lunch, we visited different lagoons, the most famous one being Laguna Colorada. Its water is a striking reddish-pink color, which comes from red algae and minerals in the lagoon, and it’s surrounded by white patches of borax along the shore. The lagoon is also home to hundreds of flamingos, which feed on the algae, and we saw lots of flamingos here.

Unfortunately, I was feeling a bit nauseous and had a headache at this point. The altitude reached around 5,000 m, the highest of the trip, and my body was not used to it.

The second night was in another basic refugio, but this one had a proper floor and even hot water in the shower, which felt like luxury after a day in the cold. The Bolivian women traveling in our group gave me some medication for the altitude sickness, and I started to feel better. We had dinner there and it was delicious. We were in the middle of the desert with no light pollution, so the stars during the night were amazingly beautiful.

Day 3 – Geysers, Hot Springs and the Border to Chile

We left early in the morning, around 5:30 a.m., when it was still dark. It was very cold and I was freezing, so keep your warmest layers with you in the car, not in your backpack on the roof.

We drove to the Sol de Mañana geysers, where steam was rising from the ground in the cold morning air, and then to the hot springs, where you could go swimming.

After that, I was dropped off at the border, where I had to wait for a bit for people from other groups to join. Then they put us all in a bigger bus that took us to San Pedro de Atacama after the border processing. Easy and no stress — this is exactly why I recommend this option.

I was freezing cold the whole last day and only got myself warm when I got to San Pedro de Atacama. The hot desert climate there felt completely different — only a few hours’ drive from the icy altiplano, and suddenly I was in a T-shirt again.

What to Know Before Booking

• Book your tour online or in Uyuni: tour agencies line the streets of Uyuni and will approach you as soon as you get off the bus. Booking online, for example on GetYourGuide, gives you the security of reading other travelers’ reviews first. Whichever way you book, confirm that the Chile drop-off is included.
• Check what’s included and bring cash: with many tours you pay for the hot springs, for example, separately in cash. Also remember to bring some bolivianos for souvenirs, drinks and snacks.
• Be ready for the high altitude: the route goes up to around 5,000 m, and I definitely felt it. It wasn’t the worst thing ever, but I also didn’t feel like doing anything super active with a headache. Take it easy, drink lots of water, and coca leaves help (you can ask for them at the hostels). The second night’s hostel didn’t have coca leaves, however, so it’s good to bring your own or bring some Sorojchi pills (altitude sickness pills sold in pharmacies all over Bolivia).
• Don’t bring coca leaves or fresh food into Chile: coca leaves are legal in Bolivia but not in Chile. Chile also has strict food rules — no fresh fruit, vegetables, meat or dairy — so finish your snacks before the border and declare anything you’re unsure about.
• Pack for freezing nights and early mornings: nights on the altiplano are freezing, and accommodation is basic. Pack warm layers, a hat and gloves, especially for the 5:30 a.m. start on day 3.
• Vegan or vegetarian? Expect basic food: Tell the company when booking and bring some extra snacks.
• Set your watch — Chile is ahead of Bolivia: Chile is usually one hour ahead, so keep that in mind for your hotel check-in or onward bus.

Option 2: Bus from Uyuni to Calama

If you’re short on time or traveling on a tight budget, you can do a 1-day salt flats tour from Uyuni instead — it covers the train cemetery, the main salt flat and Incahuasi Island — and then take a bus from Uyuni to Calama in Chile. The ride takes around 9–10 hours and crosses the border at Ollagüe, where the border processing alone can take a few hours.

If you would like to continue to San Pedro de Atacama, take another bus from Calama. It’s around 1.5 hours away.

There are also private transfers from Uyuni straight to San Pedro de Atacama via Hito Cajón (with a vehicle change at the border), but these are much more expensive and you don’t get any of the sightseeing — so in my opinion, the 3-day tour is much better value.

My Take: Tour or Bus?

Take the tour. The bus is cheaper on paper, but it’s a long and cold day with a slow border crossing — and you’d still need to pay for a tour to see the salt flats. With the 3-day tour ending in Chile, the most beautiful part of Bolivia becomes your way across the border, and you arrive in San Pedro without any hassle.

Where to Stay in Uyuni (Before the Tour)

Uyuni is a pretty barebones town, but staying in a salt hotel the night before your tour is a fun experience. Read more in my post on where to stay in Uyuni.

• Budget: Hostal Jerian — one of the best-rated budget options in Uyuni, with good private rooms
• Mid-range: My pick ★ Casa De Sal — I stayed here before my tour and highly recommend it. A cool salt hotel with a good breakfast
• Luxury: Hotel Boutique Andina — a more luxurious boutique hotel with beautiful rooms and a sun terrace

Where to Stay in San Pedro de Atacama

After three days of cold nights and basic rooms on the altiplano, you’ll want a comfortable place to land. San Pedro is small and walkable, so stay close to the center. Book ahead in high season — the town fills up fast.

• Budget: My pick ★ Hostal Mirador — I stayed here after the tour, and it was a solid budget option
• Mid-range: Nueva Lodge Estación — excellent reviews, a pool and a garden, just a few minutes’ walk from the main church
• Upscale: Domos Pujllai — highly rated domes with mountain-view patios and kitchenettes, great for stargazing

More Bolivia Guides

• Getting to Uyuni: How to Get from Sucre to Uyuni
• Where to Stay in Uyuni: The Best Salt Hotels in Uyuni
• Sucre Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know About Sucre
• Where to Stay in Sucre: The Best and Safest Areas in Sucre, Bolivia

Visiting Uyuni soon? Pin or share this post for later!

The post How to Get from Uyuni to Chile (San Pedro de Atacama) appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

And what better place to do that than a salt hotel? Uyuni is home to a handful of hotels built almost entirely from blocks of salt cut from the salt flats, and I knew I wanted to experience this. In this post, I’ll share the salt hotel I stayed at and loved, plus the other salt hotels worth considering — both in Uyuni town and right on the edge of the salt flats.

This post is part of my series on where to stay in South American cities. If you’re coming from Sucre, check out my where to stay in Sucre guide and my full Sucre travel guide. And if you are coming from Sucre and haven’t figured out yet how to get from Sucre to Uyuni, here’s my guide on how to get from Sucre to Uyuni.

What Is a Salt Hotel?

A salt hotel is exactly what it sounds like: a hotel built from blocks of salt cut straight from the salt flats. In the better ones, it’s not just the walls — beds, tables, chairs and even sculptures are carved from salt too. Out here on the altiplano, where building materials are hard to come by, salt is the one thing there’s an endless supply of.

Staying in one is a fun experience, and it’s the perfect way to start (or finish) a salt flats tour. Most multi-day tours also include a night in a salt hostel, but those are very basic. The salt hotels in this post are the comfortable version: private bathrooms, heating, proper beds and a good breakfast.

One thing to know: Uyuni sits at around 3,650 m, and nights get seriously cold, especially from June to August. Whatever you book, make sure the room has heating. The salt hotels I stayed at during my salt flats tour were awfully cold at night, so I wanted to book a nice hotel in Uyuni town where I could stay before my tour.

Uyuni Town vs. the Edge of the Salt Flats

There are two main places to stay: in Uyuni town itself, or out at the edge of the salt flats near the village of Colchani, about 25 km away.

My recommendation: if you’re only spending one night before your tour like I did and are traveling on a budget, stay in town. Tours leave from Uyuni in the morning. If you want to make the salt flats themselves the experience — and you have the budget — spend a night or two at one of the hotels on the edge of the salar.

The Best Salt Hotels in Uyuni Town

Uyuni itself is a pretty barebones town — most people are only there to launch their salt flats tour, so don’t expect the charm of Sucre. But the salt hotels here are a really nice surprise, and a comfortable place to rest before a few long days in a jeep.

Mid-range · My pick ★

Casa de Sal — Where I Stayed

I stayed at Casa de Sal the night before my salt flats tour, and I highly recommend it. I had traveled all day from Sucre — shared taxi to Potosí, then the big bus to Uyuni — and made it to the hotel just before sunset. After a long travel day at altitude, it was exactly what I needed.

The whole hotel is built with salt blocks, and the rooms combine salt walls and salt furniture with Andean details like woven textiles. Rooms come with a private bathroom, a seating area and, most importantly in Uyuni, heating.

Breakfast was good, and they even offered coca leaves at the breakfast table, hah. A nice touch, since you’re about to head even higher up into the altiplano on your tour, and coca leaves help with the altitude — at least they did help me.

The location is great too. Casa de Sal is on Avenida Potosí, a short walk from the center of town, so you’re close to the tour agencies, restaurants and the main square. It’s one of the most popular hotels in Uyuni and rated around 9/10 on Booking.com with well over a thousand reviews, so it’s worth booking ahead, especially in high season.

Knowing I’d be sleeping in basic salt hostels for the next two nights, this was the perfect place to treat myself, rest, and get ready for the tour. If I’m ever back in Uyuni, I’d stay here again.

Best for: anyone who wants the salt hotel experience without leaving town, solo travelers, one night before or after a tour.

Check availability ➜

Mid-range · Newer salt hotel

Hotel de Sal Atipax

Hotel de Sal Atipax is one of the newer salt hotels in Uyuni, built with salt blocks like the more famous ones, with salt-brick details in the rooms such as seats and headboards. The rooms are clean and spacious, the beds are comfortable, the breakfast is good, and it’s one of the highest-rated hotels in town.

If you want something that feels new and polished, this is a great choice.

Check availability ➜

Mid-range · Good value

Hotel Cristales de Sal

Hotel Cristales de Sal is a smaller salt hotel on a quiet street, about a 10-minute walk from the center. It has decorative salt-block walls, salt sculptures and even salt sinks in the bathrooms, plus big rooms and a buffet breakfast. It’s a great place to stay before and after a salt flats tour.

Check availability ➜

Upper mid-range · Hotel with a pool

Hotel Boutique Andina

Hotel Boutique Andina is a more luxurious boutique hotel with beautiful rooms, a nice sun terrace, a restaurant and bar, and an indoor pool — which is a real treat after three dusty days on a tour. It’s a little outside the center, but if you want to end (or start) your trip with some comfort, it’s a solid pick.

Check availability ➜

The Best Salt Hotels on the Edge of the Salt Flats

If you want to wake up to the salt flats outside your window, these are the places to go. Both are near Colchani, about 25 km from Uyuni town, so you’ll need a transfer (most hotels can arrange one). They’re pricier than the hotels in town — expect to pay a few hundred dollars a night — but this is where the real salt hotel magic happens: sunsets over the salar and incredible stargazing.

Luxury · Best views

Hotel de Sal Luna Salada

Luna Salada sits on a small hill right on the edge of the salt flats, and the views are the main reason to stay here. The hotel is built almost entirely of salt, most rooms look out across the salar, and the restaurant has the same view, so you can watch the sunset over the salt flats with dinner. Rooms are decorated with exposed salt blocks and have heating, which you’ll need out here.

It’s about 30 minutes by car from Uyuni town, so it works best as a stay of its own rather than a quick stop before a tour.

Best for: couples, photographers, anyone who wants the salt flats on their doorstep.

Check availability ➜

Luxury · The original salt hotel

Palacio de Sal

Palacio de Sal is the most famous salt hotel in Bolivia, and it’s often called the first salt hotel in the world. Everything here is built from salt bricks — the walls, much of the furniture, and the domed, igloo-shaped roofs of the rooms. There’s also a spa with a sauna, a steam room and a saltwater pool.

It’s right on the eastern edge of the salt flats, so you can walk out onto the salar from the hotel.

Best for: a once-in-a-lifetime splurge, special occasions.

Check availability ➜

On a Budget? Where to Stay in Uyuni for Less

The salt hotels aren’t the cheapest places to stay in Uyuni. If you just need a clean, comfortable bed before your tour, there are plenty of simpler options in town — and you’ll still get the salt experience on the tour itself.

Budget · Guesthouse

Hostal Jerian

Hostal Jerian is one of the best-rated budget options in Uyuni, with good private rooms with their own TV. It’s not a salt hotel, but it’s a good-value base for one night before your tour.

Check availability ➜

What the Salt Hostels on the Tour Are Like

This is the reason I wanted to treat myself in Uyuni. On a multi-day salt flats tour, the accommodation is included, but it’s very basic. You’ll usually stay in simple salt hostels in tiny villages out on the altiplano, often sharing a room with the other people in your jeep. Expect simple beds, limited hot water and very cold nights — so bring warm layers.

Honestly, that’s part of the adventure, and I didn’t mind it at all. But having a comfortable night in a nice salt hotel before the tour made a big difference. I started the tour well rested, with a hot shower and a good breakfast behind me.

How to Book a Uyuni Salt Flats Tour

To visit the Uyuni salt flats, you need to book a tour. This 3-day tour ending in Chile is the classic choice and the one I did. If you’re heading back to Bolivia afterward, there’s also a 3-day tour ending back in Uyuni, and if you only have one day, you can book this 1-day tour from Uyuni.

I had great luck sharing the tour with really nice Bolivians, and my driver was very professional as well. Overall a 10/10 experience.

Tour options:

• 1-day tour — covers the main salt flat, Incahuasi Island (cactus island), and the train cemetery. Good if you’re short on time. Book here.
• Multi-day tours (2–3 days or more) — extend into the surrounding altiplano: colored lagoons, flamingos, geysers, and desert landscapes near the Chilean border. This is the better option if you have the time. Book a 3-day tour to Chile here.
• Tour from Sucre — bundles the overnight bus from Sucre with the salt flats tour, so you don’t have to manage transportation separately. Book here.

If you’d rather book once you’re already in Uyuni, tour agencies line the streets around the town center and will most likely approach you as soon as you get off the bus. It’s worth comparing companies, checking recent reviews, and confirming exactly what’s included. Booking online on GetYourGuide gives you the security of reading other people’s reviews.

Getting to Uyuni

Most people arriving overland come to Uyuni by bus from La Paz or Sucre, but you can also arrive by plane — Uyuni has a small airport (Joya Andina) with flights from La Paz.

I came from Sucre during the daytime, with a shared taxi to Potosí and a big bus from there to Uyuni — it’s the cheapest way, and the scenery is beautiful. There’s also a direct overnight bus from Sucre to Uyuni if you’d rather not lose a day. I wrote a full guide on how to get from Sucre to Uyuni with all the options.

FAQs About Where to Stay in Uyuni

What is the best salt hotel in Uyuni?

In Uyuni town, Casa de Sal — I stayed there and loved it. On the edge of the salt flats, Palacio de Sal is the most iconic, and Luna Salada has the best views.

Should I stay in Uyuni town or on the salt flats?

If you’re staying one night before a tour, stay in town — tours leave from Uyuni in the morning and you’ll be close to everything. If you want the salt flats themselves to be the experience, splurge on a night at a hotel on the edge of the salar.

How many nights should I stay in Uyuni?

One night is usually enough. Most people arrive the day before their tour and leave on it the next morning, which is exactly what I did. Add a night after the tour if you’re heading back to Sucre or La Paz instead of continuing to Chile.

Do salt flats tours include accommodation?

Yes, multi-day tours include accommodation, but it’s basic — usually simple salt hostels in small villages, often in shared rooms. That’s why I’d recommend a comfortable hotel in Uyuni before or after your tour.

Is it cold at night in Uyuni?

Yes. Uyuni sits at around 3,650 m, and nights can drop below freezing, especially from June to August. Choose a hotel with heating and pack warm layers for the tour.

Do I need cash in Uyuni?

It’s a good idea to carry cash (bolivianos), as not everywhere accepts cards. Some hotels also ask for payment in cash at the property, so check the payment terms when you book.

Final Thoughts

Uyuni isn’t a town you’ll fall in love with, but its salt hotels make it a lot more fun to stay in. If you’re only spending one night before your tour, I’d go for Casa de Sal — it’s central, comfortable, and you get the full salt hotel experience. And if you have the budget for a splurge, a night at Palacio de Sal or Luna Salada right on the edge of the salt flats is something you won’t forget.

Either way, treat yourself a little before the tour. Trust me, after two cold nights in basic salt hostels, you’ll be glad you did.

More Bolivia and South America Guides

Bolivia

• Sucre Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know About Sucre
• Sucre to Uyuni: How to Get from Sucre to Uyuni (or Vice Versa)
• Where to Stay in Sucre: The Best and Safest Areas in Sucre, Bolivia

Peru

• Where to Stay in Lima: The Best and Safest Areas in Lima, Peru
• Paracas: Travel Guide to Paracas, Peru

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The post Where to Stay in Uyuni, Bolivia: The Best Salt Hotels appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

This post is part of my series on the safest and best areas to stay in South American cities. I’ve now visited every country in South America, and I always research neighborhoods carefully before choosing where to base myself. If you are visiting Peru as well, check out my Where to stay in Lima post.

The good news about Sucre is that it’s a lot simpler than bigger cities in South America. The city is small and safe, the historic center is compact, and almost everything you want to see is within walking distance. So the real question isn’t really “which neighborhood is safe?” but “which area suits me best?” — and that’s what I’ll help you figure out here.

If you’re still planning the rest of your trip in Sucre, check out my full Sucre travel guide for things to do, restaurant recommendations and getting around.

Is Sucre Safe for Tourists?

Yes. Sucre is widely considered the safest major city in Bolivia, and it’s one of the most relaxed cities I visited in all of South America. It has a big student population, a calm pace, and a historic center that’s busy with locals from morning until evening.

The best part is that you don’t need to choose a specific “safe” neighborhood like you do in Lima or La Paz. Anywhere in the historic center is safe and walkable, day and night. I walked everywhere — to cafes, restaurants, churches and viewpoints — and never felt like I had to be on alert.

That said, normal city rules still apply. Keep your phone out of reach in busy markets, don’t flash expensive camera gear, and take a taxi if you’re heading somewhere outside the center late at night. The biggest issue most travelers face in Sucre isn’t crime — it’s the altitude (2,810 m / 9,220 ft), so take it easy on your first day.

The Best Areas to Stay in Sucre at a Glance

There are three main areas worth considering, and they all border each other. You can walk from one to the other in 15 minutes.

My recommendation: if it’s your first time in Sucre or you’re only staying a few days, stay in the historic center. You’ll be able to walk everywhere, and you won’t need taxis at all.

1. Historic Center (Plaza 25 de Mayo) — Best Area for First-Timers

The historic center is where I’d recommend most people stay, and it’s where I spent most of my time. This is the UNESCO-listed part of Sucre: white colonial buildings with orange roofs, narrow cobblestone streets, and churches on almost every corner.

Plaza 25 de Mayo is the heart of it all. It’s a tree-lined square that’s busy from morning until late evening, with locals sitting on the benches, students passing through and families out for a walk. Most of the main sights are right on the plaza or a few blocks away, including Casa de la Libertad, the cathedral and the rooftop of San Felipe Neri.

I felt completely safe walking around here, including after dark. The streets around the plaza are well lit and there are almost always people around. Everything was close enough that I could walk wherever I needed to go — restaurants, cafes, supermarkets, the market, all of it.

The only downside is that the streets right next to the plaza can get a little noisy. If you’re a light sleeper, ask for a room facing an inner courtyard. Luckily, most hotels here are old colonial houses built around courtyards anyway.

Best for: first-time visitors, solo female travelers, short stays, anyone who wants to walk everywhere.

Budget Hotels and Hostels in the Historic Center

In Sucre, budget means roughly $20-30 USD a night for a private room — and for that you can get a lot.

Budget · B&B

Casa Verde Hostal

A charming B&B in an old building a short walk from Plaza 25 de Mayo. Private rooms only, with a quiet courtyard and a small swimming pool, which is pretty unusual at this price. Breakfast is included.

Check availability ➜

CasArte Takubamba B&B

A beautifully converted colonial home four blocks from the main square, with an art gallery, a sunny courtyard and a rooftop terrace. Breakfast is included and the WiFi is reliable. It’s one of the most-loved budget stays in Sucre, with both dorms and private rooms.

Check availability ➜

Budget · Hostel

Santa Teresa Alley Hostel

A cozy hostel tucked away in the heart of the historic center, with a quiet garden and outdoor seating areas to relax in. It has a friendly, community feel — a good pick if you want to meet people without a party scene.

Check availability ➜

Holis

A newer, adults-only (not that I usually meet lots of children in hostels anyway) hostel designed by travelers for travelers, with a shared lounge, a terrace and a bar. It’s a short walk from the center.

Check availability ➜

Mid-Range Hotels in the Historic Center

Mid-range in Sucre is roughly $30–60 USD a night. This is where the city really shines in my opinion: you can stay in a restored colonial mansion for the price of a basic hotel room in Europe.

Mid-range · B&B

El Jardin de Su Merced B&B

A beautiful garden-style hotel with lovely courtyards, terraces with great views, and breakfast included. It gets really good reviews on Booking.com.

Check availability ➜

Mid-range · Hotel

Hotel Villa Antigua

A well-maintained hotel in a colonial mansion in the heart of the historic center. Clean, comfortable and with a solid range of amenities.

Check availability ➜

Luxury Hotels in the Historic Center

Luxury in Sucre starts at around $60–80 USD a night, which is still very reasonable. These are the places to treat yourself.

Luxury · Best luxury option

Parador Santa Maria La Real

The most upscale option in Sucre. A historic colonial building right in the center, with a sauna, a hot tub, massage services and a restaurant. If you’re splurging anywhere in Bolivia, this is a solid choice.

Check availability ➜

Luxury · Boutique hotel

Mi Pueblo Samary Hotel Boutique

A stunning colonial mansion three blocks from Plaza 25 de Mayo, decorated with local artwork and colorful tapestries. Rooms have private balconies overlooking the inner patios, and the rooftop terrace has some of the best views in Sucre.

Check availability ➜

Luxury · Boutique hotel next to the plaza

Hotel Boutique La Posada

A charming boutique hotel just 100 meters from Plaza 25 de Mayo and Casa de la Libertad, so you’re right in the middle of everything. It has a garden, its own restaurant and breakfast included, and guests rate it among the best hotels in Sucre.

Check availability ➜

2. La Recoleta — Best Area for Views and a Quieter Stay

La Recoleta is the hillside neighborhood just above the historic center, and it’s where Sucre gets quiet and residential. It’s one of the oldest parts of the city, built around the Monastery of La Recoleta (dating to 1601) and Plaza Pedro de Anzúrez.

The main reason to stay up here is the view. The Recoleta viewpoint right next to the monastery is one of the best spots in the city to see Sucre’s sea of white buildings and orange rooftops stretching across the valley. I went up there several times to take photos, and it’s especially beautiful in the late afternoon. Imagine having that a few steps from your hotel.

It’s a safe, calm area, and it feels much more local than the streets around the main plaza. The walk down to Plaza 25 de Mayo takes about 10–15 minutes. The catch is the walk back up — it’s a steep climb, and at 2,810 m you’ll definitely feel it on your first few days. Taxis are cheap, though, so you can always grab one back up in the evening.

Best for: couples, photographers, repeat visitors, anyone who wants peace and quiet with a view.

Where to Stay in La Recoleta

Mid-range · Hotel with a view

Casa Kolping Sucre

The best-located hotel in La Recoleta, steps from the monastery and the indigenous art museum. It has a terrace with views over the whole city, a garden, a breakfast buffet, a gym and its own restaurant. Guests mostly rave about the view — and having the viewpoint on your doorstep at sunset.

Check availability ➜

There aren’t many hotels up in La Recoleta, so it’s also worth checking apartments in Sucre on Booking.com and filtering for this area — especially if you’re staying a week or longer.

3. Around Parque Bolívar — Best Area for Longer Stays

Just north of the historic center is Parque Bolívar, Sucre’s biggest park. It’s a long, leafy green space where locals come to jog, walk their dogs and hang out on weekends, and the Supreme Court of Bolivia sits right on its edge. There’s even a small replica of the Eiffel Tower in the park.

The streets around the park are more residential and less touristy than the center, but still safe and only a 10–15 minute walk from Plaza 25 de Mayo. This is more of a “live like a local” area: you’ll find fewer hotels here and more apartments, local shops and everyday restaurants.

If you’re staying a week or longer — for example to work remotely or take Spanish classes — renting an apartment here (or in the quieter streets of the center) makes a lot of sense. You get a kitchen, more space, and usually a much better price for longer stays.

Best for: digital nomads, long stays, Spanish students, anyone who wants a more local feel.

Where to Stay Around Parque Bolívar

Most of the accommodation here is apartments rather than hotels. Search apartments in Sucre on Booking.com and check the map view — anything between Parque Bolívar and Plaza 25 de Mayo is a good location. Before booking, I’d always check the reviews for comments about WiFi speed and noise.

Where to Stay in Sucre If You’re…

A Solo Female Traveler

Stay in the historic center, within a few blocks of Plaza 25 de Mayo. You’ll be able to walk back to your hotel after dinner on busy, well-lit streets, and you won’t need taxis at all. I’d go for CasArte Takubamba if you want a friendly, social place with private rooms, or El Jardin de Su Merced if you want something calmer. I traveled to Sucre as a solo female traveler and felt safe here.

A Digital Nomad

I stayed in Sucre as a digital nomad, and I worked from an apartment the whole time. Unfortunately, the place I stayed in isn’t listed anymore, so I can’t link it here — but I can tell you what worked for me. An apartment in the center or around Parque Bolívar gives you a proper desk, a kitchen and quiet, and the WiFi in Sucre was reliable for me throughout my stay. If you prefer a hotel, look for one with a desk in the room and strong WiFi reviews. I’d also get an eSIM as a backup.

On a Budget

Sucre is one of the cheapest cities in South America to stay in. CasArte Takubamba and Casa Verde both have breakfast included and look a lot better than the price suggests.

Looking for a Splurge

Parador Santa Maria La Real is the best luxury hotel in Sucre — and luxury here costs a fraction of what it would elsewhere.

Areas to Be Careful in Sucre

There’s no part of Sucre I’d tell you to avoid completely during the day. But there are a few areas where I wouldn’t stay, and where I’d be more careful after dark:

• Around the bus terminal at night. Like bus stations everywhere, it attracts pickpockets and unofficial taxi drivers. It’s fine during the day, but don’t book a hotel nearby just to be close to your bus — the center is only a short taxi ride away.
• Mercado Campesino after dark. This huge local market is chaotic and fascinating during the day, but there’s no reason to wander the surrounding streets at night.
• Outer hillside neighborhoods at night. The residential areas beyond the center have less lighting and fewer people around. Stick to the center after dark, or take a taxi.

You also don’t need to stay near the airport. It’s about 30 km from the city, and a taxi or shared taxi from the center gets you there easily.

One more thing: Bolivia sometimes has protests and road blockages, and they tend to happen around main squares and government buildings. Before you go, check the latest local news, and if there’s a demonstration, just walk the other way.

Getting Around Sucre Safely

On foot: the historic center is entirely walkable, and nearly everything is within a 20-minute walk of Plaza 25 de Mayo. This is how I got around most of the time.

Taxis: there’s no Uber in Sucre, so I just hailed taxis on the street. They’re cheap, I never had trouble finding one, and I felt safe using them as a solo female traveler — even if some of the cars looked a bit beaten up.

Arriving by plane: Sucre’s airport (Alcantarí, SRE) is about 30 km from the city. You can take a private taxi or a cheaper shared taxi. I took the shared one, and the drive through the high-altitude landscape was beautiful — I even spotted llamas on the way.

Arriving by bus: take a taxi from the terminal straight to your hotel, especially if you arrive early in the morning on an overnight bus. You can book buses from La Paz to Sucre and from Uyuni to Sucre online in advance.

Leaving for Uyuni: Sucre is the best base for the salt flats because you can travel there during the day instead of taking the night bus from La Paz. I wrote a full guide on how to get from Sucre to Uyuni, or you can book a Uyuni salt flats tour from Sucre that includes the transport.

FAQs About Where to Stay in Sucre

What is the best area to stay in Sucre?

The historic center, within a few blocks of Plaza 25 de Mayo. It’s safe, walkable and close to almost every sight, restaurant and cafe in the city.

What is the safest area to stay in Sucre?

The historic center and La Recoleta are both very safe. Honestly, the whole center of Sucre is safe to walk around, day and night — I never felt unsafe there as a solo female traveler.

Is it safe to walk around Sucre at night?

Yes, in the historic center. The streets around the plaza are well lit and busy in the evening. Take a taxi if you’re going outside the center late at night, and avoid the area around the bus terminal after dark.

Where should digital nomads stay in Sucre?

An apartment in the historic center or around Parque Bolívar. You’ll get a desk, a kitchen and quiet, and the WiFi in Sucre worked reliably for me the whole time I was there.

How much does a hotel in Sucre cost?

Roughly $20-30 USD a night for a good budget private room (and you can of course stay in a hostel dorm even cheaper), $30–60 USD for mid-range, and from around $60–80 USD for luxury. Sucre is one of the most affordable cities in South America.

What is the best hostel in Sucre?

CasArte Takubamba is the best all-rounder I would say, but there are lots of other options too.

How many nights should I stay in Sucre?

Three to four nights is the sweet spot for most travelers. Stay a week or longer if you’re working remotely or taking Spanish classes — I did, and loved it.

Final Thoughts

Sucre is one of the easiest cities in South America to choose a place to stay. It’s small, safe and walkable, and you really can’t go wrong anywhere in the historic center. If it’s your first visit, stay near Plaza 25 de Mayo. If you want views and quiet, go up to La Recoleta. And if you’re staying longer, rent an apartment and live like a local for a while.

Wherever you end up, I hope you love Sucre as much as I did. It’s one of my favorite cities in Bolivia, and I’d go back in a heartbeat.

More Bolivia and South America Guides

Bolivia

• Sucre Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know About Sucre
• Sucre to Uyuni: How to Get from Sucre to Uyuni (or Vice Versa)
• Where to Stay in Uyuni: The Best Salt Hotels in Uyuni

Peru

• Where to Stay in Lima: The Best and Safest Areas in Lima, Peru
• Paracas: Travel Guide to Paracas, Peru

Visiting Bolivia soon? Pin this guide for later.

The post Where to Stay in Sucre, Bolivia: The Best and Safest Areas appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

Kerala packs a lot into a small state. In under two weeks, you can walk the colonial lanes of Fort Kochi, see beautiful green tea plantations in Munnar, drift through the backwaters of Alleppey and Kumarakom, and end on the beach with a coconut in hand. Distances look short on the map, but the roads are slow, so this itinerary is built around fewer bases and longer stays.

This guide covers a 12-day route, how to get between each stop by public transport or private driver, where to stay, and what to eat as a vegan in one of the most plant-friendly corners of India. I spent two weeks in Kerala, but since I was working remotely full-time as a digital nomad, my own itinerary looked a bit different: I was based in Kochi most of the time and did day trips or weekend trips to different places.

Kerala at a Glance

My Suggested 12-Day Kerala Itinerary

Kerala Travel Itinerary (12 Days)

Days 1–3: Kochi

Kochi is where most Kerala trips start, and it’s worth more than a quick stopover. Centuries of spice trading left Portuguese, Dutch, British, Jewish and Arab layers on the old town, and today those streets are full of galleries, cafés and murals. Three nights gives you time to explore without rushing and to recover from the flight. I stayed a lot longer myself, since I was based in Kochi and did day trips to different areas from here, plus a weekend trip to Munnar.

One thing to know: “Kochi” covers a big area. Ernakulam is the modern mainland city with the train stations, big shopping malls and so on. Fort Kochi and Mattancherry are on the historic peninsula across the water, and that’s where you want to stay. I stayed a little outside the main touristy area of Fort Kochi, in a quiet residential neighborhood (more about this below).

Things to Do in Kochi

• Watch the Chinese fishing nets at sunset. The huge cantilevered nets along the Fort Kochi waterfront are still worked by hand. Go in the late afternoon to see them lowered and raised against the sunset.
• Walk Fort Kochi. Start at Fort Kochi Beach, walk along the seaside promenade to the Chinese fishing nets and continue to St. Francis Church, one of the oldest European-built churches in India. Then wander the side streets of old colonial houses and admire the huge trees lining the streets. If it’s too hot to walk, or you want to see the highlights in one go, a private tuk-tuk city tour with hotel pickup covers Fort Kochi and Mattancherry with a driver who knows the places.
• Explore Mattancherry and Jew Town. Visit the Paradesi Synagogue, dating from the 16th century, and Mattancherry Palace, known for its Hindu murals. Both have short opening hours and closing days, so check before you go. If you want to learn more about the history of Kochi’s Jewish community, join a Jewish heritage walk with a local guide.
• Browse the spice warehouses. The old godowns between Mattancherry and Fort Kochi still smell of pepper, cardamom and ginger. Many now house shops and galleries.
• See a Kathakali performance. Kerala’s classical dance-drama is all painted faces and huge costumes. This evening show combines Kathakali with Theyyam and Kalaripayattu, Kerala’s traditional martial art.
• Take the ferry. The government ferry between Fort Kochi and Ernakulam costs next to nothing and gives you a view of the harbor.
• Visit art galleries. Kochi is famous for its art. There’s street art everywhere you look, plus several galleries you can visit. If your trip falls during the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, a contemporary art festival held roughly every two years from December to March, plan extra time here.
• Wake up for sunrise at the backwaters. One morning, my homestay host took me to watch the sunrise at the nearby backwaters. The atmosphere was beautiful and calm, and we saw locals out walking and doing their morning exercises. Definitely worth waking up early for (you can see some photos of this on my Instagram and watch my YouTube vlog).
• See how laundry is done the traditional way. Dhobi Khana is Fort Kochi’s public laundry, where families of washermen have worked for generations. Clothes are still scrubbed by hand in rows of small concrete tanks, hung to dry on lines across the yard and pressed with heavy charcoal-heated irons. It’s free to visit and a short walk from the center (a small tip is appreciated).

Where to Stay in Kochi

Stay in Fort Kochi for heritage guesthouses and walkable streets. It’s the best area for tourists, as all the sights are close by and there’s hardly any traffic compared to the other side of the bridge (Ernakulam).

I personally stayed just outside Fort Kochi, because I found an amazing homestay there with very modern rooms, great facilities and affordable prices. The best thing about it, though, turned out to be the very kind host, who showed me around Kochi since I was staying longer.

One evening, he drove me to watch the sunset at a nearby beach and see the colorful boats, and one morning he took me to see the sunrise: we drove to several viewpoints and took a nice morning walk along the nearby backwaters (you can see these adventures on my YouTube channel, by the way — episodes 1 and 2 of my Solo Across India series). I was amazed by all this hospitality, and as a solo female traveler visiting India for the first time, I really appreciated it.

• My pick ★ eCASA Homestay: quiet homestay just outside Fort Kochi with modern rooms and a super kind host. Check availability →
• Budget: Kochi Bella Villa: highly rated, wallet-friendly base. Check availability →
• Mid-range: The Fort Bungalow: highly rated guesthouse close to Fort Kochi’s sights and cafés. Check availability →
• Splurge: Forte Kochi: boutique hotel in a restored colonial-era building in the heart of Fort Kochi. Check availability →

Days 4–6: Munnar

Munnar is a must-visit while in Kerala. Here, the hills are covered in tea, the air is cool enough for a sweater in the evening, and mornings often start in fog. After the coastal heat, it feels completely different, and I was amazed by the beauty of this place.

Getting from Kochi to Munnar

The drive takes about 4–5 hours on winding roads. KSRTC buses leave regularly from Ernakulam and drop you in Munnar town, which is the cheapest option. A private driver costs more but lets you stop at viewpoints along the way. You can also just order an Uber, but don’t expect any extra stops.

Things to Do in Munnar

• Walk through the tea estates. The best way to see them is on foot with a local guide, since many paths cross private estate land. Your guesthouse can usually set this up. If you’d rather not arrange a guide yourself, this tea trail tour combines a walk through the plantations with a tea factory visit and a tasting.
• Go up to Kolukkumalai. It’s one of the highest tea estates in the world, reached by jeep from Suryanelli.
• Visit Eravikulam National Park. This is the home of the Nilgiri tahr, a mountain goat found only in this region. The park usually closes for a few weeks around February and March during calving season, so check before you go.
• Drive out to Top Station. The viewpoint on the Kerala–Tamil Nadu border looks out over the plains far below, when the clouds allow.
• Learn how tea is made. The Tea Museum and working tea factories show the whole process, from leaf to cup. This tea tour combines a walk through the plantations with a tea factory visit and a tasting.
• Hike if you’re fit. Guided treks range from easy walks to full days in the peaks around Munnar. Try this half-day guided trek, or go for a full-day mountain hike if you want something more challenging.
• Visit Attukad Waterfall. About 20–30 minutes from Munnar town, this waterfall drops down a forested hillside surrounded by green hills. Make sure you have transportation organized to take you back, because I got stuck there with no autos around (I ended up hitchhiking — you can see it in my vlog).
• Take a jeep safari to Anakulam. Anakulam is a village where wild elephants often come down to the river to drink. Getting there on your own is tricky without a car, so this jeep safari with a waterfall stop is an easy way to see it.
  

A few notes for your visit: the main road can get really busy, so don’t book accommodation along it. Munnar town itself isn’t the nicest place to stay either, so look for places with tea plantation views. Weekends can also get busy as locals come here on holiday, so it’s better to visit during the week if you can.

If you don’t have a car, it’s quite difficult to get around. Uber doesn’t really work here (I think I only managed to get one once), so at one point I even had to hitchhike to get back from a waterfall I visited (you can see this moment in my vlog here). That’s why it’s better to hire a driver or join tours in Munnar.

Where to Stay in Munnar

Skip Munnar town itself, which is busy and noisy. Stay out in the hills at a plantation or homestay that includes meals and can arrange guides and drivers.

• Budget: Green Valley Vista: budget-friendly base with hill views, away from the busy town center. Check availability →
• Mid-range: Blanket Riverside Resort and Spa: resort surrounded by greenery, good for a relaxed stay in the hills. Check availability →
• Splurge: Chandy’s Drizzle Drops: luxury resort on the road to Top Station, with sweeping views over the hills. Check availability →

Days 7–9: The Backwaters (Kumarakom and Alleppey)

The backwaters are a web of canals, rivers and lagoons running parallel to the coast, lined with coconut palms, rice paddies and villages that live on the water. This itinerary gives you both sides: two quiet nights in Kumarakom, then a night around Alleppey.

Kumarakom vs. Alleppey

Kumarakom

From Munnar, the drive down to Kumarakom takes about 4–5 hours. You can also travel back to Kochi from Munnar first and continue to the backwaters from there. Base yourself at a homestay on the water and slow down.

• Take an early canoe trip. Small motorized or paddled canoes get into the narrow channels that houseboats can’t reach. At sunrise, the water is still and the villages are just waking up. Many homestays run these trips themselves.
• Go birdwatching. Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary sits on the edge of Vembanad Lake. Early morning is best, and winter brings migratory birds.
• Take a Kerala cooking class. Several homestays teach home-style Kerala cooking. Ask ahead for a fully vegan version.
  

Alleppey and the Houseboat

Getting from Kumarakom to Alleppey is a short drive. If you have the time and patience, the public ferry between Kottayam and Alleppey takes a few hours and costs very little. It’s the cheapest backwater cruise you’ll find (more about my own ride below).

Then the big decision: houseboat or not?

• Houseboat: You rent the whole boat with a crew who cook all your meals, and spend a day and a night cruising. It’s the classic Kerala experience, and lovely if you pick a good operator. But it’s pricey for a solo traveler, the main channels can feel crowded, and boats moor for the night in busy spots. Book through an operator with recent reviews rather than haggling on the jetty.
• Homestay and canoe: Stay at a waterfront homestay and explore by small boat instead. It’s much cheaper, gets you into quieter canals and puts you closer to village life.

Alternative Option: The Local Boat from Alappuzha to Kottayam (Day Trip from Kochi)

As I was working on weekdays, I didn’t have the chance to spend several days on a boat. Instead, I took the local boat from Alappuzha to Kottayam. My original plan was to take a private boat to Kumarakom for some birdwatching, but since there was no one to share the cost with, I ended up taking the public boat from the Alappuzha boat jetty to Kottayam. The ride takes 2–3 hours, and the boat stops at several villages along the way, so you get a glimpse of local life, see some birds and have a very different kind of experience. You can see this boat ride in my YouTube vlog.

To do it as a day trip from Kochi, the easiest option is to take an Uber from Kochi to the Alappuzha boat jetty and then take a boat to Kottayam. In Kottayam, I had lunch and then took another Uber back to Kochi.

Where to Stay in the Backwaters

• Budget: Backwater Breeze: affordable stay in Kumarakom, close to the water. Check availability →
• Splurge: Kumarakom Lake Resort: one of Kerala’s best-known luxury resorts, on the shores of Vembanad Lake. Check availability →
• Houseboat: Alleppey overnight private houseboat cruise: a private boat with crew, meals and a canoe ride into the narrow canals. Check availability →

Days 10–12: Kerala’s Beaches

After the hills and the backwaters, end the trip by the sea. Which beach you choose depends on how much time you have left and what kind of beach you like.

Varkala

Varkala is the most popular beach destination in Kerala, and it’s a place I really wanted to visit, but it’ll have to wait until next time. I had done some research about this place, but my work schedule didn’t allow me to travel all the way there. It’s about 3 hours from Alleppey by train or car, and longer from Kochi. The cliff above the beach is lined with cafés and guesthouses, surf schools and yoga classes, and it’s a popular spot among travelers.

• Take a beginner surf lesson with a local surf school
• Join a yoga class — many guesthouses run their own
• Walk the cliff at sunset and eat at the cliff-top cafés

On day 12, fly out from Thiruvananthapuram airport (TRV), about an hour from Varkala, so you don’t need to backtrack to Kochi.

Where to Stay in Varkala:

• Budget: Mango Villa Guesthouse: a cozy guesthouse set around a garden, a calm base for exploring the cliff. Check availability →
• Splurge: Asteya: an upscale boutique hotel for a relaxing end to your trip. Check availability →

Hidden Beaches near Kochi

If you’re staying longer in Kochi, I highly recommend Chellanam Fishing Harbor and Chellanam Beach for sunset, about 30 minutes south of Fort Kochi by car or Uber. This is where my homestay host took me to watch the sunset (watch it in my first India episode here). You can see local fishermen at work and a huge number of colorful boats. It’s a really beautiful place, and you can walk out along the breakwater for even better sunset views.

Know Before You Go

Best Time to Visit Kerala

October to March is the dry window. December to February has the most reliable sunshine, but also the highest prices and the busiest backwaters, so book houseboats and beach stays early. October and November sit at the tail end of the lighter northeast monsoon: expect the odd downpour, greener landscapes and better rates.

June to September is the main monsoon. Some travelers love it for Ayurveda and lush hills, but heavy rain can flood roads and cancel boat trips, so I wouldn’t plan a first visit around it. My homestay host told me that many roads are flooded during this time.

Getting Around Kerala

• KSRTC buses are the state-run buses and reach almost everywhere for a few hundred rupees or less. They get crowded, but they’re the cheapest way to travel between Kochi, Munnar and the coast. Look for AC services on longer routes.
• Trains run along the coast (Ernakulam, Alleppey, Varkala, Thiruvananthapuram) but don’t go into the hills. Book ahead in peak season, either on IRCTC, the official Indian Railways booking site, or on 12Go if you’d rather not deal with the rather complicated official site or don’t have a local phone number.
• Private drivers are the easiest way to handle the mountain legs and the fastest way to get to Munnar, for example. Your guesthouse can usually arrange one, or you can just order an Uber (don’t count on Uber in Munnar though). With a private driver, you can easily stop at viewpoints along the way.
• Auto-rickshaws cover short hops. Agree on the price before you get in, or use Uber. I felt safe taking Ubers as a solo female traveler, and for added safety, you give the driver a PIN code from your app. Without it, the ride can’t start.
• Ferries and local boats are part of daily life here. The cheap state ferries in Kochi and the long ferry between Kottayam and Alleppey double as sightseeing (more about this below).

I used a mix of all of these and finally left Kerala on a 12-hour overnight train to Goa (so expect more India travel content on the blog!).

Is Kerala Safe for Solo Female Travelers?

Kerala is widely seen as one of the more relaxed states for first-time and solo female travelers. However, you should dress more conservatively than in Goa, for example, so cover your shoulders and knees. I almost always wore a T-shirt and pants.

I felt relaxed walking around by myself, and I never got harassed or catcalled. I even ended up hitchhiking in Munnar (as you can see in my vlog here), and I experienced nothing but kindness from locals.

Of course, bad things can happen anywhere, and as a solo female traveler, I feel like I always need to stay a little on guard wherever I go, but overall I felt a lot safer here than in many other places around the world.

Are There Vegan Options in Kerala?

Kerala is one of the easiest places I’ve found to eat vegan in India. A lot of the cooking is built on coconut cream and coconut oil rather than ghee and dairy. Rice, lentils and delicious coconut-based curries are everywhere. Dishes to look for:

• Appam with vegetable stew — lacy rice pancakes with a mild coconut-milk curry
• Puttu and kadala curry — steamed rice cylinders with black chickpea curry, a classic breakfast
• Idiyappam — string hoppers, great with any curry
• Dosa, idli and sambar — thin, crispy crepes and fluffy steamed cakes, both made from a fermented rice-and-lentil batter and served with sambar (a lentil and vegetable stew) and coconut chutney. Ask for no ghee on the dosa.
• Masala dosa — the classic dosa, folded around a spiced potato filling
• Thali — a full meal on one plate or sometimes a banana leaf: rice with several small curries, sambar, rasam, pickle and papadum. In Kerala, it’s often just called “meals,” and refills are usually unlimited. Ask beforehand if there is curd or milk.
  

A traditional sadya on a banana leaf is also worth trying; just ask which dishes contain dairy. For tea, ask for black chai — it comes without milk.

There are plenty of pure vegetarian restaurants everywhere in India. These restaurants serve vegetarian food without eggs, so whenever you go to one, just ask which dishes don’t have ghee, paneer (cheese) or milk, and you’ll get a delicious vegan meal.

Some of my favorite restaurants in Kochi were Vaman’s Veg Restaurant (you can see it in my YouTube vlog — I went there on my first day and ended up eating there almost daily during my stay) and Vijaya Lakshmi Bhavan (they have the best masala dosas).

There’s also a pricier, more Western-style place called Coriander Vegetarian Restaurant. If you’re craving vegan ice cream, they have some, so it’s worth checking out for that alone!

Kerala Travel FAQ

Is Kerala good for a first trip to India? Yes. It’s calmer, greener and easier to navigate than much of the north, while still giving you the food, culture and landscapes. It was my first stop in India too, and I’m glad I followed everyone’s advice to start here.

How many days do you need in Kerala? Ten days covers the highlights at a comfortable pace. With 12–14, you can add a beach and actually rest.

Can you do Kerala on public transport? Yes. KSRTC buses and coastal trains connect almost every stop on this route. The hill roads are slow, so allow extra time. I used buses, trains, ferries and Ubers, and left Kerala on an overnight train to Goa. The exception is getting around Munnar once you’re there: without a car, hire a driver or join tours.

Is a houseboat worth it? It depends on your budget and travel style. For solo travelers, a homestay plus a small-boat tour is often better value and quieter, and the public ferry is the budget option.

Do I need a visa for India? Most nationalities need one, and many can apply for an e-visa online. Check the official Indian government e-visa site before you book.

Kerala was the perfect first stop in India for me, and I hope this itinerary helps you plan your own trip. If you want to see what traveling here actually looks like, watch my Solo Across India series on YouTube as I travel across the whole country on public transportation.

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The post Kerala Travel Itinerary for the Highlights: Kochi, Beaches, Munnar & the Backwaters appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

Mangystau sits in the far southwest of Kazakhstan, along the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea. A long time ago, this entire area was actually the bottom of the ancient Tethys Ocean, and today those former seabeds have turned into the dramatic white cliffs, colorful canyons, and salt flats you can see there now. Besides the surreal landscapes, the region is also home to sacred underground mosques, ancient necropolises, and important pilgrimage sites, so there’s a good amount of history and spiritual heritage packed in here too.

Up until now, the desert has mostly been visited by photographers and some Italian tourists (surprisingly, I learned that most tourists visiting Mangystau are from Italy), but Mangystau is a dream destination for any adventure traveler who loves beautiful landscapes, so I think that’s about to change.

In this travel guide, I’ll tell you everything you need to know to visit the Mangystau region and see the iconic landscapes for yourself. I stayed in Aktau both before and after my desert tour, so I’ll also share a few accommodation tips for the city, but this guide focuses mostly on the desert part of the trip, since that’s the main reason to visit. Besides the landscapes, there are other sights to see in the desert as well, such as unique underground mosques declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

This place is still pretty unknown to the world, but things are changing fast — they’re building asphalt roads and a visitor center right in the middle of the desert. So if you want to visit Mangystau before it’s completely overrun by tourism, now is your chance. Keep reading to find out how.

And if you are into more unique landscapes in Central Asia, I have plenty of other content on my blog as well, such as Karakol and Issyk-Kul travel guide, Song Kul guide, Seven Lakes guide, and Iskanderkul Lake guide.

Do You Need a Tour to Visit Mangystau?

Yes, for most people a tour is the best option, because you’ll be heading into the middle of the desert. The terrain is rough, there’s no phone service, and the weather can be extreme. In summer it’s extremely hot, in winter extremely cold, and in between there can be stretches of heavy rain where cars get stuck. The tour operators carry radio phones so they can call for help if needed.

There’s no public transportation to reach the most famous desert sights. If you’re a very experienced driver in desert conditions — aware that there’s no phone signal or internet for GPS, that most of the time there are no roads at all and you’ll be off-roading, and that there are no facilities so you’d have to bring everything yourself — you could also rent a 4×4 yourself and head into the desert.

If you do decide to self-drive, make sure you’re well prepared: bring plenty of drinking water, extra fuel, offline navigation, a spare tire, recovery equipment, and enough food to be self-sufficient in case conditions change unexpectedly. But for most people, the best and safest option is to join a tour like I did.

You need a 4×4 to reach most of these places, so I joined a jeep tour. There are no asphalt roads (and in most parts, no roads at all) — though they are currently building some, which I’m honestly a little sad about, since I loved how untouched the nature was.

As someone I met on the tour — another traveler who sat next to me on day two — put it: “More fun, less people.” — that’s what you get when there are no proper roads and you’re off-roading through the desert.

So let’s get into the tour options in the next section before I tell more about my personal experience visiting Mangystau and about the best places to visit there.

What Tour Should You Book for Mangystau?

You can easily book Mangystau tours on GetYourGuide, and the company I used offers these options:

2-day tour  — covers Ybyk Gorge, the Karaman-Ata underground mosque, Tiramisu Canyon, Bokty Mountain, and the Bozjyra Fangs in one overnight trip.
3-day tour — adds Torysh, Sherkala, and a night at the Valley of Castles.
5-day tour — the first tour to include the Tuzbair Salt Flat, plus a night in a traditional yurt camp. 
7-day tour — the full route through the whole region.

So you can choose the itinerary depending on how much time you have. I have longer tour descriptions below.

I was very happy with the tour company I used, and our guide, Azret, was very knowledgeable about the region and also kept the atmosphere up. When you’re spending several days in the middle of the desert exposed to the elements, the choice of tour company matters a lot. The company I used is one of the biggest tour operators in Mangystau, and they’re very professional: 4×4 vehicles in good shape, guides with deep local knowledge, radio phones for safety, and they even arranged vegan food for me when I requested it beforehand. They have very high ratings on GetYourGuide as well.

Here’s a closer look at what each tour actually covers:

2-Day Tour: 7 Wonders of Nature and History

The easiest introduction to the region if your time is limited. Day one covers Ybyk Gorge and the Karaman-Ata Necropolis, the largest underground mosque in Mangystau, before camping overnight near Kyzylkup (Tiramisu) Canyon.

Day two continues to Bokty Mountain and the three Bozjyra viewpoints — the Mars Panorama, the Crest, and the Fangs — before heading back to Aktau. It includes one night of camping, most meals, entrance fees, and accident insurance.

3-Day Tour: Unforgettable 3 Days in Mangystau

A good middle ground if you want more than a quick taste but don’t have a full week. Day one covers the Shakpak Ata underground mosque, Torysh (Valley of Balls), the purple Jurassic clays of Kokala, and a panoramic view of Sherkala Mountain, ending with a night camping at Airakty (Valley of Castles).

Day two passes through Zhanaozen city, Kyzylkup (Tiramisu Canyon), and Bokty Mountain before camping beneath the Bozjyra Fangs.

Day three explores the upper Bozjyra viewpoints, the Mars Panorama, and Dragon Crest Ridge before heading back to Aktau. It includes two nights of camping, all meals, and an English-speaking guide.

5-Day Tour: Bottom of the Ancient Ocean

This tour goes deeper into the region and adds a proper yurt stay. Day one covers Torysh, Kokala, and Sherkala, with a night camping at Airakty.

Day two is dedicated to the Tuzbair Plateau — the upper viewpoint, the salt flats, and the White Arch — followed by a night in a traditional yurt camp.

Day three visits the Karaman-Ata underground mosque, Ybyk Gorge, and the market in Zhanaozen, then camps overnight at Kyzylkup (Tiramisu Canyon).

Day four covers Bokty Mountain and the Bozjyra highlights (Mars Panorama and Dragon Crest), camping beneath the Fangs.

Day five closes with a morning hike up the Bozjyra Fangs, a drive past the Senek Dunes, and a stop at Karagie Hollow — one of the deepest depressions on Earth — before returning to Aktau.

7-Day Tour: Discover the Whole of Mangystau

The full deep dive for anyone who wants to see as much of the region as possible. Day one covers Jygylgan (Fallen Earth), the Shakpak-Ata cave mosque, and Kapamsay Canyon.

Day two adds Akespe Gorge, Torysh, Kokala, and Sherkala, with a night at Airakty and dinner in a traditional yurt at Kogez Ethno Village.

Day three covers Zharmysh village, the Tuzbair upper and lower viewpoints, and the White Arch.

Day four is a rest day with a stop at Zhanaozen Market and a hotel stay in Zhanaozen.

Day five is dedicated to the Bozjyra Panorama, the Fangs, and Lower Bozjyra.

Day six covers the Baisary Plateau, Bokty Mountain, and Kyzylkup (Tiramisu Canyon).

Day seven wraps up with the Karaman-Ata underground mosque and Ybyk Gorge before returning to Aktau. It includes seven nights of camping plus one night in a yurt.

What Are the Best Places to Visit in Mangystau?

During my tour, I got to see lots of beautiful places, and here are some of my favorites that I highly recommend you check are included in your tour.

Tuzbair Salt Flat

The salt flats reminded me a little of the ones I’d seen earlier in Uyuni, Bolivia. The salt flats extend for approximately 15 km and are surrounded by beautiful white limestone canyons. Depending on the season, parts of Tuzbair can hold a thin layer of water, which turns the salt crust into a mirror and reflects the sky and surrounding cliffs, similar to what makes Uyuni so famous.

During our tour, we could see water on the salt flats, but it was far away. Apparently, cars can easily get stuck here in the mud, but experienced drivers know where it’s safe to drive. 

It truly felt like another planet already at this point, as I climbed up one of the huge white boulders. Tuzbair is included only in the longer tours — the 5-day and 7-day itineraries.

Valley of Castles, Airakty

The Valley of Castles is known for its castle-shaped rock formations. I watched the sunset from here, and it was absolutely spectacular.

As the sun went down, the moon rose from the other side behind the mountains, horses grazed by the side of the road, and a camel appeared at the top of one of the mountains. It was all amazingly beautiful. Airakty is included in the 3-day, 5-day, and 7-day tours.

Tiramisu Canyon (Kyzylkup)

Tiramisu Canyon is one of the most iconic places in Mangystau, with cliffs that look exactly like the dessert because of their multilayered colors.

I even climbed up here to get a better view of the place, and it was so stunning from up there. Most tours include stops at several different viewpoints to get the most out of this place. It’s included in all four tours — 2-day, 3-day, 5-day, and 7-day.

Bokty Mountain

This is the famous mountain that’s also tiramisu-colored. I tried to photograph it with a drone, but it was so huge that it was hard to get far enough back to capture the whole thing. Truly impressive. Like Tiramisu Canyon, Bokty Mountain is included in all four tours.

Bozjyra National Park

Bozjyra National Park is one of the most iconic sights in all of Mangystau, and its most famous feature is the Fangs (pictured above) — a row of sharp, jagged white limestone peaks that jut up from the canyon floor and really do look like a set of teeth or claws.

Besides the Fangs, there are other named viewpoints here too, like the Dragon’s Crest (also called Dragon Crest Ridge), a rocky ridge that resembles a dragon’s spine.

We saw the beautiful rock formations from several different viewpoints and ended the day watching the sunset over them, right near the spot where they’re currently building Bozjyra’s new visitor center, on the plateau above the canyon. Bozjyra is included in all four tours, though which specific viewpoints you get to depends on how many days you book.

Sherkala Mountain

Sherkala is a solitary, 308-meter chalk mountain that rises straight out of a flat plain, and it’s one of the most recognizable landmarks in the region. From a distance, it’s often compared to the ancient Roman pantheons, and up close, huge stone balls are scattered around its base.

There’s also a cave at the foot of the mountain that leads up to the top. According to local legend, it looks like a giant yurt, said to have been put up by mythical nomadic giants. Today, it’s considered one of the natural symbols of Mangystau. Sherkala is included in the 3-day, 5-day, and 7-day tours.

UNESCO World Heritage Underground Mosques

There are several underground mosques scattered around the area, and most of the tours include at least one. In July 2026, Beket-Ata, Shopan-Ata, Karaman-Ata, Shakpak-Ata, and Sultan-Epe — were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name “Rock Mosques and Associated Sacred Sites of Mangystau.” They’re centuries-old underground mosques, carved into the rock and still used as active places of worship and pilgrimage today.

I had the chance to visit one of them and got a proper tour of the place, as we were invited to join the prayer. I’ve traveled to plenty of Muslim countries — having visited around 150 countries — and visited lots of mosques, but this was the first time I was invited to actually take part: the washing and the whole process. A local woman showed the women in our group how to wash ourselves three times before praying.

After washing, we walked quite a way to the mosque itself, where we first prayed in the main room, with men and women together, and then I was led deeper underground by local women to a dark underground room for a second prayer. It was such an interesting experience, and I’m so glad I was invited. Keep in mind that you’re not allowed to take photos inside the mosque, so I don’t have any photos from the inside, but I did take some outside.

The mosque we visited was Shopan-Ata, which wasn’t part of our original itinerary — but a few of us in the group, myself included, were curious to see it, so we asked to add it. It hadn’t traditionally been part of most tour itineraries, but now that it’s been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, interest in visiting it has grown, and it may well become an official stop on more tours going forward.

The Karaman-Ata Necropolis appears on the 2-day, 5-day, and 7-day tours; the Shakpak Ata underground mosque appears on the 3-day and 7-day tours.

Camels (Not a Place, But Still a Highlight)

I wasn’t surprised to see so many camels here — after all, I’d already seen plenty of them on the Turkmenistan side. If you’re interested in seeing more of Turkmenistan, I have a whole series on my YouTube channel, by the way.

But it was so much fun watching the camels roam around and taking photos of them. I loved spotting them while we were driving across the desert.

My Experience Exploring Mangystau

I spent several days road-tripping through the desert on the jeep tour. The distances here are huge and the days were long, but it was definitely worth it. Most of the time we were off-roading through the desert, since there are no asphalt roads, and the landscape felt so vast and so remote. There was no cell service most of the time, so you were truly completely off the grid here. There were just endless plateaus, vast deserts, salt flats, and canyons.

This is my kind of travel, as I love to explore off-the-beaten-path destinations. Besides our group, we also hardly saw other people there, and we actually saw more camels than people. It had been quite dry when I visited, so there was a lot of dust as we drove the dusty off-road desert roads.

Our guide had a lot of knowledge about the desert, and since I’m always curious to know everything about the places I visit, I asked him a lot of questions to learn more about the region.

The tours here really know how to take you to the best places, where you can see the most beautiful landscapes, and we were driven to so many different viewpoints (some of the best ones are listed above, but we visited other places too). I had my drone with me, so the most fun I had was flying it and filming the landscape. We were always taken to really nice sunset spots as well, and watching the sun set over the desert was absolutely magical.

There were several places where you could also climb up the rock formations, and of course I did that for some incredible views of the desert. By climbing up and sitting on the boulders, though, I got my clothes incredibly dirty and dusty. A little tip: black is not your friend here — if you look at the first photo on this post, you can see how awfully dirty my bottom looks. I had no idea until I saw the photos.

We had lunch on the road, and the drivers and guides put together a proper lunch setup every time. They also prepared some vegan options for me, such as delicious hummus, so I was very happy about that. The weather conditions were sometimes a bit harsh, with extreme wind, since there are of course no trees in the desert, but the drivers parked the cars close together to get some protection from the elements and put a sun cover on top of that.

If you visit during the summer, be prepared for extreme temperatures. I visited in early autumn, and it was still very hot — sometimes it felt like I was melting. A hat is a good thing to have to protect you from the sun, and don’t forget sunscreen!

Besides the desert landscapes, we also visited the Shopan Ata underground mosque. It was such an interesting experience to see this place and take part in the prayer as well.

I loved my time exploring the Mangystau desert, and I’ll remember these extraordinary landscapes forever. Definitely worth the effort to get here!

Where to Stay in the Desert

For the tours, accommodation is mostly camping, since you’ll be in the middle of the desert most of the time. There’s one town, Shetpe, where you’ll find other accommodation options as well.

I stayed one night at Qazaq Camp Shetpe, where I had my own private yurt. I’ve stayed in plenty of traditional yurts all over Central Asia, and usually the facilities are pretty bare bones — no running water and very cold nights. Here, it’s not like that: the rooms have AC/heating, and there are shared bathrooms with hot water and flushing toilets.

How to Get to Aktau (Where the Tours Start)

All of the tours start in Aktau, and the most convenient way to get there is by flying, if you’re coming from other parts of Kazakhstan such as Almaty or Astana — Kazakhstan is a big country, and the distances are huge. From Almaty, it apparently takes three days to travel there overland.

You can book domestic flights with local airlines Scat Airlines, Air Astana, or FlyArystan.

Aktau is also a port town where cargo ships from Azerbaijan arrive. A lot of people doing a bigger overland trip — for example, with their own car, arriving from the Caucasus or all the way from Europe — make this crossing. I’ve also crossed the Caspian Sea by cargo ship before, so if you’d like detailed information on how to do this, read my post on How to Take the Caspian Sea Ferry (Cargo Ship) from Azerbaijan and I also have a YouTube video about it.

Where to Stay in Aktau

Aktau actually has a nice variety of hotels, and it’s also a popular holiday destination for Kazakh people. So there’s everything you could want, from resorts to mid-range hotels and budget options.

I stayed at the Dostyk Hotel, a nice 4-star hotel with clean, quiet rooms and a nice breakfast included.

I also visited the Rixos Water World Resort, the only five-star Caspian Sea resort in Kazakhstan. This is a massive property with several swimming pools, including a beautiful infinity pool with Caspian Sea views. There are also plenty of food options, and the buffet caters to all diets, including vegan. This resort is located a bit further from the city center, so it’s more the kind of place where you just stay and don’t need to leave.

If you’d like a nice 4-star hotel in the Aktau city center, there’s also Caspian Riviera. It’s located along the seaside promenade and has nice views of the Caspian Sea.

For budget options, you could check out Three Dolphins Hotel, for example.

What Is the Best Season to Visit Mangystau?

Mangystau has extreme seasons: summers are extremely hot, with temperatures rising up to 50°C (122°F), and winters are cold, dropping as low as -30°C (-22°F).

During spring, it can rain a bit, and cars can get stuck if the road conditions get too rough. That’s why it’s important to book a reputable, experienced tour company — I highly recommend the ones linked above.

The best times to visit Mangystau are typically April to May and September to October. These are the months when it’s not too hot or too cold, but tours run year-round, so if you don’t mind extreme temperatures, you could visit at other times too.

Is Mangystau Worth Visiting?

Absolutely.

Out of everywhere I’ve traveled in Central Asia, Mangystau is genuinely one of the strangest and most beautiful places I’ve seen — and I don’t say that lightly, having visited around 150 countries. The landscapes really do feel like another planet, and the fact that it’s still so unknown to most travelers only makes it more special.

Up until now, the desert has been mostly visited by Italian tourists, but it’s just now starting to get recognized by more people. I was completely blown away by the beauty of the desert every day I was there, and it was such a nice way to be completely off the grid for a few days, since most of the time you don’t have any phone signal. Mangystau is also a dream for photographers like me, and I loved taking photos there and flying my drone as well.

If you love off-the-beaten-path destinations, surreal landscapes, and a bit of adventure to get there, Mangystau is one of the best places you can visit in Kazakhstan, if not all of Central Asia. If you’re interested in visiting, now is your time — before the place gets completely overrun by tourism. It was still pretty untouched while I was there, and other than our group, we hardly saw other people.

If you have any questions about visiting Mangystau, leave a comment below or feel free to reach out to me on Instagram!

Liked this post? You might also enjoy my other Central Asia content:

Tajikistan

• How to Visit the Seven Lakes in Tajikistan
• Best Day Trips from Dushanbe
• How to Visit Iskanderkul Lake in Tajikistan

Uzbekistan

• The Most Beautiful Places in Uzbekistan

Kyrgyzstan

• How to Visit Song Kul Lake in Kyrgyzstan
• Karakol and Issyk-Kul Area Travel Guide

Turkmenistan / Kazakhstan / Caspian Sea

• Taking the Caspian Sea Ferry (Cargo Ship) from Azerbaijan

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The post How to Visit Mangystau, Kazakhstan appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

To get to Kazbegi from Tbilisi, you have four ways to do it: book a tour, book shared transport, or go independently by marshrutka or rental car. Here’s how each one actually works.

I drove to Kazbegi myself, but I compared other travel options too when I visited. I ended up going with my own rental car so that I could stay overnight in Kazbegi and then continue driving to the next destinations, but in this post I’ll compare other options too, such as different tours.

If you are interested in traveling more all over Georgia, also check out my Georgia road trip itinerary post that includes Kazbegi, but also the wine country, Mestia, and other interesting sights along the way.

How to Visit Kazbegi in Georgia

Here’s a closer look at each of the four ways to get there, starting with the easiest:

Option 1: Take a Tour

For most people, especially if you are planning to visit only Kazbegi, a tour is the easiest way to see everything in one day without worrying about logistics. Even if you’d otherwise like to rent a car and travel around the country, Kazbegi can easily be organized separately as a day trip from Tbilisi.

Affordable Day Tour to Kazbegi

This is the most booked Kazbegi tour on GetYourGuide, and it covers the full route: Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri Fortress, a wine and honey tasting, Gudauri viewpoint, and a transfer up to Gergeti Trinity Church.

Pros of this day tour:

• Very cheap for a full day covering four major stops
• No logistics to plan — pickup and drop-off from central Tbilisi
• Live guide included, English and Russian
• Free cancellation up to 24 hours before

Cons of this day tour:

• It’s a big group tour, so expect a full bus and a fixed schedule
• 10.5 hours is a long day, and a lot of it is driving

3-Day Tour to Kazbegi

This is the better option if you don’t want Kazbegi to be a rushed single day.

Day one covers Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri, and Gudauri on the way in, with drop-off at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi by the evening.

Day two is a free day to arrange your own hiking, rafting, or paragliding.

Day three is another free day before the transfer back to Tbilisi in the evening.

Pros:

• Actually gives you time in Kazbegi instead of just passing through
• Room to add optional activities (hiking, paragliding) at your own pace
• Transport and hotel pickup from Tbilisi included

Cons:

• Accommodation isn’t included in the price — you book and pay for that separately. Compare options on Booking.com.
• The “free days” mean you’re on your own for planning once you arrive, so it suits independent travelers more than people who want everything handled (which can also be a plus, depending on your style!)
• Reviews mention it’s worth double-checking hotel and pickup arrangements directly with the operator in advance

2-Day Tour to Kazbegi

This is the shorter middle ground between the rushed one-day tour and the 3-day version — you still get an overnight in Kazbegi, but without committing a third day.

Day one hits Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri Fortress, and Gudauri Ski Resort, with an optional sunset 4WD ride up to Gergeti Trinity Church, before dropping you at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi or Hotel Carpe Diem Gudauri in the evening.

Day two is flexible: stick with the standard free day, or add on a guided hike to Gveleti Waterfall, horseback riding, or both, before the transfer back to Tbilisi in the evening.

Pros:

• Overnight in Kazbegi without needing a full third day
• Optional add-ons (waterfall hike, horseback riding) if you want a more structured day two instead of planning your own
• Hotel pickup and transport included both days

Cons:

• Accommodation isn’t included in the price — you book and pay for that separately. Compare options on Booking.com.
• Gergeti Trinity Church is still an optional extra, not part of the base tour
• In winter, road closures can mean the overnight shifts from Kazbegi to Gudauri instead

Option 2: Take a Shared Transport

This one is a hybrid: it’s a real guided tour on the way in, with stops at Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri Fortress, and the Gudauri viewpoint (plus honey and cacha tasting and lunch), but instead of a fixed round trip, it drops you and your luggage off in Kazbegi and lets you pick your own return date later. Good if you want the sightseeing stops covered without having to plan them yourself, but don’t want to be locked into a same-day or fixed-length itinerary.

Pros:

• Covers the main stops (Zhinvali, Ananuri, Gudauri) with a live guide, so you’re not just staring out a van window
• Luggage travels with you, so you can go straight from the tour into your Kazbegi stay
• Flexible return — you contact the operator and pick your own date to head back to Tbilisi
• Cheaper than a private transfer for what is essentially a guided ride plus flexibility

Cons:

• Gergeti Trinity Church is an optional add-on with an extra fee, not included in the base stops
• Return pickup times in Kazbegi are limited to a set window (around 3:30–4pm), so you’ll need to work around that
• You have to coordinate your return date directly with the operator rather than it being fixed in advance

Option 3: Go Independently by Rental Car

If you’d rather skip the group and go at your own pace, Kazbegi is easy enough to reach on your own. Two main ways are marshrutka or renting a car.

Renting a car gives you the most freedom — stop wherever you want along the Georgian Military Highway, spend as long as you like at each place, and set your own pace between Tbilisi and Kazbegi.

For comparing car rental options, I use Localrent, which pulls together prices from local rental companies rather than just the big international chains, so it’s usually cheaper, and the fleet includes SUVs that are better suited to the mountain roads.

I rented a car in Tbilisi and set off for a longer road trip around the country, using this itinerary I had planned, which you can read on my Georgia Road Trip Itinerary post.

I recommend starting the drive in the morning. I actually left Tbilisi late at night after work, and by the time I hit the switchbacks near Kazbegi, it was pitch dark. Not something I’d repeat, but I didn’t have any other option because of my work schedule.

Start early instead, both for the driving and for the stops along the way, like Jvari Monastery (about 30 minutes out, perched above the river confluence) and Zhinvali Reservoir a bit further on. The drive itself takes around 3.5 hours without stops, longer with them.

Because I had been based in Tbilisi for a bit longer and was driving around on my road trip as well, I had already visited these stops I recommend:

• Jvari Monastery: about 30 minutes out, perched above the river confluence.
• Zhinvali Reservoir and Ananuri Fortress: a bit further on.

And besides these, there are also beautiful mountain views as you get closer to Kazbegi.

Pros of renting a car:

• Total flexibility — stop at Ananuri, Zhinvali, Gudauri (around here are also beautiful views), or anywhere else for as long as you want
• Skip the group entirely, go at your own pace
• Easy to combine with other stops in the Kazbegi area, or extend the trip
• Localrent often turns up better prices than international booking sites since it compares local operators directly

Cons of renting a car:

• Driving in Georgia, especially on mountain roads leading to Kazbegi, isn’t for everyone — expect aggressive overtaking and unpredictable trucks. I didn’t personally have any problems, but if you have only driven in Europe or the USA, for example, you might find driving here different.
• Winter driving on this route can be genuinely dangerous, with snow and closures on the pass
• Because Kazbegi is close to the border, there is often a long line of trucks. At least when I visited there were lots of Russian trucks!

Option 4: Take a Local Marshrutka

The marshrutka is the budget way to get to Kazbegi, and it’s what most backpackers use. Marshrutka vans leave from Didube Bus Terminal in Tbilisi. Tickets cost around 20 GEL per person, paid in cash directly to the driver.

Vans run frequently in high season, roughly every hour from 8am to 7pm, less frequently outside of summer. There’s no way to book ahead — you just show up, ask around for “Kazbegi,” and get pointed toward the right van. It leaves once it’s full, not strictly on a fixed schedule, though the popularity of the route means you hopefully won’t have to wait long.

The government is planning new regulations to ban minivans from journeys longer than 150 km. As of 2026, the minibuses still run regularly, but in 2027 there might be some changes, and minibuses might be replaced with big buses. Kazbegi is a bit of a borderline case, though, as the distance is just a little over 150 km. If you’re taking this route in 2027, let me know in the comments how it went and what kind of bus it was!

Pros:

• By far the cheapest option
• Frequent departures, especially May–September
• Authentic way to travel, and you’ll share the ride with locals

Cons:

• No stops along the way — you go straight to Kazbegi, so you’ll want to arrange separate transport to see Ananuri or Gudauri
• Can be a rough ride: cramped seating, fast driving, mountain roads
• No schedule or advance booking, and departures can thin out outside peak season
• Doesn’t take you directly to Gergeti Church or your hotel

Where to Stay in Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)

Stepantsminda has grown a lot as a tourist base over the past few years, so the range now goes well beyond the old handful of guesthouses — you’ve got everything from family-run spots with home-cooked breakfast to design hotels with Mount Kazbek right outside the window. Here’s a quick-pick list to match whatever you’re after, starting with where I actually stayed.

Hotel options in Kazbegi:

• Intourist Kazbegi ★ — my pick, the mountain views from the hotel were beautiful.
• ELSADA — a small guesthouse with a garden and terrace, with mountain views right from the property, for a budget option.
• Rooms Hotel Kazbegi — the area’s design-hotel pick, with an indoor pool and a terrace looking straight out at Mount Kazbek and Gergeti Trinity Church, for a splurge.

Things to Do in Kazbegi

Beyond just admiring Mount Kazbek from town, Stepantsminda has enough around it to fill a few days if you don’t want it to be a rush-in, rush-out day trip. Here’s what’s worth prioritizing.

• Gergeti Trinity Church — the top sight in Stepantsminda, and worth budgeting real time for, not just a quick photo stop. You can reach it by day tour, by car, or by hiking up yourself, and the landscape around the church is as much a reason to go as the church itself. One thing to know before you go: women need a long skirt and to cover their hair, and men can’t enter in shorts. I showed up in long pants and was still handed a skirt to wrap around me at the entrance.
• Dariali Monastery — set in a dramatic gorge close to the Russian border, with a striking, remote feel to it. You could visit this monastery on the same day as Gergeti Trinity Church, and you can book a tour that combines the two.

• Gveleti Waterfalls — an easy, low-effort hike close to town if you want a beautiful payoff without much climbing. It’s commonly combined with Gergeti Trinity Church and Sno Valley on a single tour.
• Gergeti Glacier — for anyone who wants to keep going past the church, a trail continues on toward the glacier itself.
• Sno Valley — a small village on the way to Juta, best known for its collection of giant stone heads carved by local artist Merab Piranishvili, each one depicting a well-known Georgian writer, poet, or historical figure. Like Gveleti, it’s often bundled with Gergeti Trinity Church on a combined tour.

FAQ

How long is the drive from Tbilisi to Kazbegi?
Around 3.5 hours without stops, longer once you factor in Ananuri, Gudauri, or Jvari Monastery along the way.

Is Kazbegi better as a day trip or an overnight stay?
A day tour covers the main sights, but an overnight (or longer) gives you time to actually hike, see Gergeti Trinity Church without rushing, and explore other sights beyond that.

Is it safe to drive to Kazbegi yourself?
Generally yes, but expect mountainous roads, aggressive overtaking, truck traffic near the border, and — in winter — genuinely dangerous conditions with snow and pass closures. I was fine and didn’t have any issues driving.

What’s the cheapest way to get to Kazbegi?
The marshrutka, at around 20 GEL per person, though it comes with no schedule, no stops, and a rougher ride.

Want to visit other places in Georgia? Check out my Georgia Road Trip Itinerary post for more inspiration.

Planning a trip to Georgia? Pin or save the post!

The post How to Visit Kazbegi, Georgia: Tour vs. Independent Travel appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

And to give you some context: this travel blog isn’t my full-time job. I actually work full-time remotely while running this blog (and now also a YouTube channel) on the side, so I have a lot on my plate at all times, and I need good wifi to take meetings and get my job done.

Digital Nomad Guide to Sri Lanka

WiFi and Mobile Data in Sri Lanka

I’m not going to sugarcoat it here: I struggled with the wifi and mobile data connection a lot more than I had expected. The wifi in most places is very slow — in some places almost non-existent, like in the accommodation I stayed at in Unawatuna. I’ll go into the accommodation options below, tell you where I stayed, give you my honest review, and point you toward places where you can actually get good wifi.

What I learned is that to get at least decent wifi for working in Sri Lanka, you need to do a lot of research beforehand and be willing to either stay in areas with co-working spaces or pay a little extra for pricier accommodation to have a more guaranteed connection. If your work is more flexible, you might be fine, but if you have to take meetings, do data-heavy work with deadlines, and keep set work hours, take this into account.

And it’s not just the wifi connection that’s unreliable — I noticed that sometimes even the mobile data stopped working completely. This happened especially during peak hours in some places — I think there just wasn’t enough capacity to handle all the users. And I wasn’t the only one with this problem: other people had it too, and their mobile data stopped working at the same time as mine. I tested this with three different mobile carriers, and with both eSIMs and regular SIMs. This might be a seasonal thing and could change depending on weather and capacity — this is just my experience of how it was when I visited in 2026.

There are also frequent power cuts, so take this into account and always keep your laptop fully charged.

• eSIM before you land: grab an Airalo eSIM so you have data the second you touch down and you don’t need to hunt for a SIM counter at the airport.
• Local SIM: Dialog and Mobitel are the two main carriers if you’d rather buy a local SIM card.
• Wifi as a booking filter: Compare hotels on Booking.com, read the reviews, and specifically search for what people said about wifi. I did this for every place I booked where I was planning to stay longer.

Cost of Living for Digital Nomads in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is noticeably cheaper than Bali, for example, if you stay outside of Colombo. Colombo is more expensive when it comes to accommodation, but it’s easier to find cheap local restaurants there than in more touristy areas.

• Budget nomad: ~$600–900/month — hostel or shared room, mostly local food, minimal transport
• Mid-range nomad: ~$1,000–1,800/month — private room, some co-working, mix of local and Western food, scooter or tuk-tuks
• Luxury nomad: $2,000+/month — private villa, fine dining, private transport

Where to Stay in Sri Lanka as a Digital Nomad

A lot of digital nomads tend to gravitate towards the south coast along the beautiful beaches. And that’s where I ended up staying the majority of the time too — not because other digital nomads stayed there, but because the wifi was so unstable elsewhere that I needed to be somewhere with several co-working options as backup.

The most popular places among digital nomads in Sri Lanka are Weligama, Mirissa, Ahangama, and Hiriketiya, but I visited other places too, and I’ll give you a review of them all here. I ended up staying the longest stretch in Weligama, since it had the most reliable co-working options of anywhere I stayed.

Colombo — Best for WiFi Reliability, but Expensive Accommodation

The capital has the most reliable wifi, plenty of cafés and restaurants with good connections, and co-working spaces — the most popular being Hatch Works. It’s not scenic, but if you need stable days to actually grind through work, it’s the safest bet. I was based in Colombo twice and was mostly just focused on working while I was there. If you’re interested in seeing how my first day in Colombo and Sri Lanka went, I have a video on my YouTube channel.

Taprobane House — My Pick ★: Check rates on Booking.com

My favorite place I stayed in Colombo. It’s a gorgeous boutique hotel with real character, great service, and modern, well-kept rooms since it’s a newer property. There’s a lovely rooftop swimming pool too. Book early — it’s a small property and sells out fast. My room had strong wifi and a desk and chair for working.

Cinnamon Red: Check rates on Booking.com

A stylish, design-forward hotel with a fantastic rooftop infinity pool and great views over the city and ocean. The rooms are a touch more dated than at Taprobane House, but it’s a solid, reliable option in a good location. I’d especially recommend it if you’re arriving late at night — they arrange airport pickups through professional, trustworthy drivers, which is exactly why I booked it for my own middle-of-the-night arrival. My room had strong wifi and a desk and a proper office chair for working.

I stayed at Taprobane House and Cinnamon Red while working from Colombo. Both were more expensive than my usual hotel budget, but I physically walked around to several hotels in the city to test their wifi, and the cheaper options just didn’t have a strong enough connection.

Read my other post: Is Colombo Worth Visiting?

Weligama — Best for Co-Working Spaces + Surf

This is the place where I stayed the longest, mainly because there were several co-working spaces I ended up frequenting almost every day — the wifi connections were quite unreliable otherwise. The two co-working spaces I visited the most were:

The Best Co-Working Spaces in Weligama

Outpost — The best co-working space for serious work: unlimited, fast wifi included with the day pass, a backup generator, and two separate rooms (a quiet room and a room for taking meetings), plus rentable phone booths. They also have a lovely rooftop with sea views where you can work, and you can use the swimming pool too. A day pass costs $11.

You can also book a stay here through Booking.com and live at their coliving space, so you can use the co-working space whenever you like — I’d recommend this option, since the facilities look really nice.

Fun fact: I’d actually visited their co-working space in Bali a long time ago as well.

Plan B — This is the second co-working space I visited, and it’s noticeably cheaper than Outpost: the day pass is 5,000 LKR, but it includes a 2,500 LKR food and beverage credit, so I always ended up eating something here too.

They have just one fairly small, air-conditioned room, so there’s nowhere to take meetings in peace. Do note that the day pass only includes 40GB of data — I was fine the first time I visited, but the second time I was doing something data-heavy and ran out very fast.

How My Typical Day Looked Like as a Digital Nomad Based in Weligama:

Since I ended up staying in Weligama the longest out of everywhere I based myself in Sri Lanka, I figured it’s worth walking you through what a normal day actually looked like there — work, running errands, gym, co-working spaces, food, all of it. I filmed a full day in my life there, so here’s what a typical day looked like for me in Weligama as a digital nomad of 10 years:

Day Trips from Weligama:

From Weligama, it’s also easy to do day trips to nearby spots like Galle, Mirissa, and plenty of other beaches. Weligama is also the best place on the coast to learn to surf if you’re a beginner, and there’s no shortage of surf schools if you want to give it a try.

Where to Stay in Weligama:

I stayed at Sanu Surfing Villa, where I had an apartment-type place with my own kitchen, bathroom, and large table for working. I booked this place for two weeks and loved my time there. The owners live on the property as well, so it feels very local, and they were so kind and helpful and helped me with lots of stuff. The owner even messaged me after I had left their place to make sure I had made it alright to my next destination.

The only downside was the wifi. When it worked, it was fast, but they only had a certain amount of data available for each day before it ran out. The owner was really kind about this, however, and bought a bigger package when I asked about it. However, it still ran out almost every day, and I never really knew how much data was left, as it was shared with other guests too. Just something to keep in mind.

 You can check rates and book Sanu Surfing Villa on Booking.com.

Other accommodation options for digital nomads:

• Outpost Weligama — a beachfront coliving space with a dedicated co-working space, fast WiFi, backup generator, rooftop with sea views, and a swimming pool — Check rates and book on Booking.com.
• Wake N Flow Coliving & Coworking — I visited this place several times to work remotely and the wifi was really fast. You can check rates and book on Booking.com.
• Hangtime Hostel — right across from the surf beach, with a rooftop café and dedicated co-working area, both with sea views; probably the most popular pick with backpackers and nomads alike. I used their restaurant’s wifi and it was surprisingly fast.

Ahangama — Best for a Quieter Base Close to the Action

Ahangama is just down the road from Weligama, so I visited a few times without staying there long-term. It has a strong surf scene and some lovely sunset spots along the coast — the local stilt fishermen are also worth seeing if you catch them out. Ahangama is also getting very popular with digital nomads, and there are several co-living and co-working places here too.

Next time, I would definitely stay here, because I saw these amazing-looking accommodations with co-working spaces on Booking.com:

Accommodation Options in Ahangama:

• Colive Ahangama — a coliving space with free bikes, a pool, and a desk in every room, plus a shared co-working area. You can check rates and book on Booking.com.
• Nets Cowork & Colive — geared specifically towards professionals, with neat, well-kept rooms and a swimming pool. Their on-site co-working space has private booths for meetings, plus Starlink and an off-grid solar installation. If I were coming back to Ahangama, this is where I’d book. You can check rates and book on Booking.com.

Mirissa — Best for Surf + Nightlife

Also close to Weligama, so I did day trips here. The beach is smaller than Weligama’s, but I think it’s more beautiful, with some nice rocky areas you can walk along and the famous Coconut Tree Hill viewpoint. There are good restaurants here (a lot of them more Western-style), and Mirissa is also known for its nightlife. It’s a good place for surfing too, and it’s also one of the main spots on the south coast for whale watching if you’re visiting during the season.

Accommodation Options in Mirissa:

• Asaya Sands Mirissa — a beachfront hotel with a co-working space, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, and comfortable air-conditioned rooms — Check rates on Booking.com

Hiriketiya — Best for Beach + Surf

Hiriketiya has a growing nomad scene but still feels less touristy and more peaceful than Weligama or Mirissa. It’s a small horseshoe-shaped bay known for its good beginner-to-intermediate surf and a handful of cafés with a jungle-meets-beach vibe. I didn’t base myself here long-term, but it’s worth considering if you’re after more of a work-life balance pace. Do keep in mind, though, that the beach is smaller than Weligama’s, for example, so it can get crowded during high season.

Accommodation Options in Hiriketiya:

• Slow Life Coliving — a laid-back coliving space with both private rooms and dorms, a shared kitchen, lounge, workspaces, and a garden. Check rates on Booking.com.

Ella — Best for Scenery, Worst for Connectivity

Ella is stunning — you can catch a glimpse of it on YouTube in my Little Adam’s Peak sunrise hike video, and you can read more about the hike in my post here — but wifi in the hill country was the least reliable anywhere I worked from in Sri Lanka. I had considered staying in Ella for a while and working from there, but I ended up keeping it to a weekend trip while I tested out the connections.

There is, however, one hotel advertising a Starlink connection — I’d messaged them ahead of time to ask about wifi, but unfortunately they were fully booked while I was there. If you’re interested in visiting and working from Ella, consider this place: Ella Inn Hotel.

Definitely don’t skip Ella, though! It was one of the most beautiful places I visited on this trip.

Book a hotel with Starlink connection: Ella Inn Hotel

Read more: Little Adam’s Peak sunrise hike guide

Besides these places, I also visited Unawatuna and Tangalle, but the wifi connections in both were quite unreliable, and neither had co-working spaces as a backup, so I didn’t include them in this list as there are other beach areas you can choose from.

I also considered traveling north to Kandy and Jaffna, but ended up not doing so, because it was rainy season and the wifi connections in Kandy sounded even more so-so. That’ll unfortunately have to wait for another time. I’ll be back, though, because I loved Sri Lanka so much!

Is Sri Lanka Safe for a Solo Female Traveler?

I wasn’t quite sure before I arrived whether I’d feel safe as a solo female traveler and was afraid of getting harassed, but Sri Lanka felt safe for solo female travelers, and I felt like I could relax there.

Although everywhere else in the country I dressed quite conservatively (covering my shoulders and knees), in the beach areas I felt fine wearing a top and shorts, and I didn’t get harassed. I definitely did see other tourists wearing whatever they liked in other parts too — I just tend to overthink this a lot, since I want to minimize harassment. But in Sri Lanka, not once did I feel threatened or harassed. All the locals I met were very warm and welcoming.

Digital Nomad Travel Insurance for Sri Lanka

Get travel/health insurance sorted before you land, in case anything happens — I use SafetyWing for exactly this kind of long, multi-country remote-work trip. SafetyWing is geared toward digital nomads, you can even purchase coverage while you’re already on the road, and it covers surfing and other activities standard insurance skips.

Best Time to Visit Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka actually has two separate monsoon seasons, which catches a lot of people out because it means the “best” time to visit depends on which part of the country you’re in:

• South and west coast (Colombo, Weligama, Mirissa, Ahangama, Hiriketiya): best from November to April. The monsoon hits this side of the island from May to September.
• East coast (Arugam Bay and around): it’s the opposite — best from around May to September, with the wet season running roughly November to April.
• Hill country (Ella): can be unpredictable and rainy at various points of the year regardless of coastal season, which lines up with my own experience of unreliable wifi and afternoon rains there.

Book your accommodation early on Booking.com if you’re visiting during peak season (roughly December to February on the south coast especially) — co-living and coworking-adjacent guesthouses in Weligama, Ahangama, and Hiriketiya fill up well in advance during these months. Outside of peak season, you can generally get away with booking just a day or two ahead.

Final Thoughts

To sum up my thoughts on my stay in Sri Lanka: the nature was amazing, the local people were incredibly friendly, the food was delicious and affordable at local restaurants, and there was so much to see that a month wasn’t enough to do it all. I’ll need to return. However, wifi and connectivity were a huge issue for me throughout the trip, so your accommodation choice matters a lot more here than in most places.

Read all my Sri Lanka posts:

Planning to head to Ella next? Check out my guide to hiking Little Adam’s Peak.

Want to know if Colombo is worth visiting and what to see there? Check out my Is Colombo Worth Visiting post.

Visiting Sri Lanka later? Save or pin this post!

The post Digital Nomad Guide to Sri Lanka: An Honest Review (2026) appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

Here are your three main options for getting from Sucre to Uyuni, or vice versa, from Uyuni to Sucre (for options 1 and 2) — and if you haven’t yet read my Sucre travel guide, check it out as well for a city guide.

Option 1: Minibus to Potosí, Then Bus to Uyuni

This is the route I did myself, and it’s the one I’d recommend if you want to travel during the daytime.

Start with a shared taxi from Sucre to Potosí. I took just a regular car shared with locals, which is the cheapest way to go (private taxis are available too, but cost more). The shared taxis leave outside of the main bus station — just ask around and you’ll be pointed in the right direction.

I was first offered a private taxi, but I said I wanted to take a shared one, and I then found another car that was ready to leave and waiting for one more passenger, so I got a seat and we were immediately on our way. For the shared taxi you have to wait for the car to fill up.

I was squeezed into the backseat with two other passengers and we started our way to Potosí. The drive is beautiful: high-altitude landscape with llamas and vicuñas grazing by the roadside. As you climb toward Potosí (sitting at 4,090 m), you’ll start to feel the altitude — my driver handed me some coca leaves to chew, which was my first time trying them and they did help. I could compare them a bit to khat I chewed in Somaliland with some locals.

The shared taxi drops you right at the Potosí bus station, where you can buy a ticket for the next direct bus to Uyuni. There are frequent big buses leaving for Uyuni, so you don’t have to worry about not getting a seat. I bought myself a ticket and had a little bit of time to eat before continuing to Uyuni in the big bus.

I made it to my hotel, Casa De Sal (which I highly recommend by the way — it’s a cool salt hotel), just before sunset and was ready to start my Uyuni salt flats tour the next day.

If you haven’t booked a Uyuni tour yet, you can easily book a tour online. There are several tour options on GetYourGuide — the most popular are a 3-day tour ending in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile (this is what I did), a 1-day tour out from Uyuni, or a 3-day tour ending back in Uyuni.

Duration: Count all day for this journey to get from Sucre to Uyuni. I started in the morning and got to Uyuni just before sunset.

If you have more time to spend, consider spending a night or two in Potosí to see the sights, most importantly the mines. It has a genuinely fascinating (if heavy) history as the silver-mining capital of the Spanish empire, so it’s worth breaking up the trip with a couple of days here if you have the time.

Tour option ideas for Potosí:

Keep in mind Potosí sits at 4,090 m, higher than both Sucre and even La Paz, so nights are cold and the altitude is no joke — take it easy, especially right after arriving.

Where to Stay in Potosí

• Budget: Eucalyptus Potosí — central guesthouse with a rooftop terrace overlooking the city, heated rooms, and breakfast included
• Mid-range: Colonial Hotel Boutique — beautiful old colonial building with courtyards, right in the heart of the historic center

Option 2: Direct Overnight Bus from Sucre to Uyuni

If you’d rather take a direct bus and start your Uyuni salt flats tour right after you arrive in Uyuni, there’s also a direct overnight bus from Sucre straight to Uyuni that you can book online. This way you don’t lose one day for traveling.

I personally didn’t want to do this, as I don’t really sleep at all on overnight buses (you would guess that after 16 years of travel I would sleep anywhere, but sadly no), so I would have just missed the next day completely because I would have been too tired to do anything.

Option 3: Book a Tour That Includes the Bus

Since you’ll need to book a tour to actually visit the salt flats anyway, this is the simplest option — it bundles the overnight bus from Sucre together with the full Uyuni salt flats experience, so you don’t have to manage transportation and tour logistics separately. If you want to take the overnight bus, I’d recommend this option so you don’t have to worry about the schedule so much.

My Take (What Option to Choose):

If you have the time, go with Option 1. It’s the cheapest, the scenery is unbeatable so you don’t miss it, you have the chance to visit Potosí, and traveling during the day just feels safer. But if you’re short on time, the direct overnight bus bundled with a tour will get you there without the hassle.

Where to Stay in Sucre

Sucre is small enough that location barely matters as long as you’re staying in the historic center. Check out my Sucre travel guide for more information.

• Budget: CasArte Takubamba B&B — beautiful building, rooftop terrace, breakfast included
• Mid-range: El Jardin de Su Merced B&B — beautiful courtyards, terraces, breakfast included
• Luxury: Parador Santa Maria La Real — stunning colonial mansion, sauna, hot tub, restaurant

Where to Stay in Uyuni

Uyuni itself is a pretty barebones town — most people are only there to launch their salt flats tour, so don’t expect the charm of Sucre. Still, there are a few solid options depending on your budget. Uyuni is also home to a handful of salt hotels, and I decided to stay in one as well for the experience.

• Budget: Hostal Jerian — one of the best-rated budget options in Uyuni, with good private rooms
• Mid-range: My pick ★ Casa De Sal — I stayed here and highly recommend it. It’s a cool salt hotel with good breakfast — they even offered coca leaves at the breakfast table, hah
• Luxury: Hotel Boutique Andina — a more luxurious boutique hotel with beautiful rooms and a nice sun terrace

How to Book a Uyuni Salt Flat Tour

To visit Uyuni Salt Flats, you need to book a tour. This 3-day tour ending in Chile is the classic choice, but if you only have one day, you can also book this 1-day tour from Uyuni. If you are planning to cross the border to Chile (as I did), the easiest way is to book a 3-day tour that includes a drop-off in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, like this one.

I had great luck sharing the tour with really nice Bolivians, and my driver was very professional as well. Overall a 10/10 experience.

Tours options:

• 1-day tour — covers the main salt flat, Incahuasi Island (cactus island), and the train cemetery. Good if you’re short on time. Book here.
• Multi-day tours (2–3 days or more) — extend into the surrounding altiplano: colored lagoons, flamingos, geysers, and desert landscapes near the Chilean border. This is the better option if you have the time, since the salt flats themselves are only part of what makes this region special. 3-day tours also have options for a Chile border drop-off. Book a 3-day tour to Chile here.

If you’d rather book once you’re already in Uyuni, tour agencies line the streets around the town center and plaza and will most likely hassle you as soon as you get off the bus — but it’s worth comparing the companies online, checking recent reviews, and confirming exactly what’s included. Booking online on GetYourGuide for example gives you the security of reading other people’s reviews.

If you want to know how my Uyuni tour went, you can check out my Bolivia Instagram story highlights.

More Bolivia and South America Guides

Bolivia

• Sucre Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know About Sucre
• Where to Stay in Sucre: The Best and Safest Areas in Sucre, Bolivia
• Where to Stay in Uyuni: The Best Salt Hotels in Uyuni

Peru

• Where to Stay in Lima: The Best and Safest Areas in Lima, Peru
• Paracas: Travel Guide to Paracas, Peru

Visiting Bolivia soon? Pin this guide for later.

The post How to Get from Sucre to Uyuni (or Vice Versa) appeared first on Gabriela Here and There.

This route goes first from Tbilisi to the mountains in Kazbegi, then to the wine region of Imereti, and up to the mountains again in Mestia.

This is a self-drive itinerary — I did the whole loop independently, no guides, starting and ending in Tbilisi. Below is exactly where I went, where I stayed, and what I’d do differently.

Georgia Road Trip Itinerary

Trip Planning

How Many Days Do You Need for This Itinerary ?

For this itinerary you’ll need a minimum of five days, but that’s a very rushed schedule. I’d recommend more, with at least two nights in each place, since the driving distances add up. The written schedule here is for 8 days, but if you have more time I would add more days in Mestia because there is so much to see.

If you don’t have a lot of time, you could do one night in Kazbegi and one night in the wine region, then choose between the Secret Pool, Katskhi Pillar, Prometheus Cave, and other sights in the region rather than trying to fit in all of them — but expect to spend most of your time driving.

If you have more time and want to see more, you could easily add Batumi, a popular city on the Black Sea. I’d already experienced the Black Sea from the Romanian side, so a beach stop wasn’t high on my list this time, and I skipped it to focus more on the nature and mountain side of the country.

How to Rent a Car in Georgia

When searching for a rental, I highly recommend checking out Localrent. I’ve used this site in many countries and usually find the cheapest rentals there — it compares cars from local rental companies and lets you book directly on the site.

A normal sedan will get you to most of this route (that’s what I had), but there were a few points along the way — mostly around the wine region and on the way to Mestia — where I wished I’d rented a 4×4 (more on that below).

What Driving in Georgia Is Like

I’ve rented cars in plenty of countries and experienced a range of driving conditions. My honest take on Georgia: locals drive quite wildly at times, overtaking in dangerous spots, and Tbilisi traffic especially can feel chaotic — though you don’t actually need a rental car in the city of Tbilisi itself, since it’s easy to get around by public transport, taxi, or on foot.

Outside the capital, expect curvy mountain roads, some gravel stretches in questionable condition, and potholes. Drive carefully and you should be fine — I’m a fairly confident driver and didn’t have any problems driving myself, but I did witness an inexperienced tourist with too much speed crashing their car in the potholes. Common sense goes a long way here.

Also make sure to check road and weather conditions, especially in the mountain areas — landslides, road closures, and sudden weather changes can make the roads dangerous quickly.

Best Time to Visit Georgia

May through October is the easiest window for this whole loop — outside that, some of the mountain roads get genuinely risky even if they technically stay open. The road to Mestia is open year-round, but I wouldn’t recommend it if you’re not experienced driving in harsh winter conditions. The mountain passes see more avalanche and rockfall risk in winter and spring. The same goes for the road to Kazbegi, where road closures are also possible during winter.

If wine is a priority, September–October lines up with the grape harvest in most regions. July–September is best for hiking around Kazbegi and Mestia if trails are part of your trip.

Where to Stay in Tbilisi

Since this itinerary starts and ends in Tbilisi, you’ll likely want a place to stay in the city before or after the loop — maybe both. I stayed in Tbilisi for a while, which gave me time to try out a few different hotels:

• Amante Narikala by Old Tbilisi Hospitality — tucked right at the foot of Narikala Fortress in the Old Town, a short (steep, cobblestone) walk from where taxis can drop you. Book a suite with the bathtub — the views from the tub over the city are worth it.
• History of Tbilisi — my favorite of the three as it offers the best value and is a good base if you’re working remotely like I was. I had a two-story room with a desk for working and a small balcony.
• Ornament Hotel — a solid budget option with a good location in the Old Town.

If you’d rather stay at a luxury property, Tbilisi has some excellent options too:

• Stamba Hotel — a design hotel set in a converted Soviet-era publishing house, known for its dramatic atrium and rooftop pool; probably the most talked-about hotel opening in the city in recent years.
• Artizan Design Hotel — a locally-owned 5-star hotel in the Old Town with bold, art-forward interiors (it even has its own in-house gallery), plus a restaurant with vegan and gluten-free options on the menu.
• Swissôtel Tbilisi — a more conventional 5-star hotel right by the Dry Bridge Market, with a rooftop bar and terrace looking out over the river and the old city, plus a full spa and indoor pool.

The best area to stay for tourists is definitely the Old Town, as it’s close to most sights and easy to get around on foot.

Road Trip Itinerary

Day 1: Tbilisi to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)

I left Tbilisi late at night after work and drove straight to Stepantsminda. I wouldn’t recommend doing it this way — toward the end of the drive the road turns into curvy mountain switchbacks, and doing that stretch in the dark isn’t pleasant. Start early instead — partly for the driving itself, and partly because there are some nice stops along the way that are worth the daylight.

My last workday before leaving happened to be packed with meetings right up until later afternoon, so an early start wasn’t an option for me, but don’t make the same mistake. I’d already visited some of the stops below during earlier trips out of Tbilisi, but you should leave early and visit these spots along the way:

About 30 minutes outside Tbilisi, break up the drive at Jvari Monastery, perched above the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers. It’s a beautiful spot — give yourself some time here rather than rushing through. Jvari dates to the late 6th century and was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list back in 1994. I found this such a peaceful place and the views from the top overlooking the crossroads of two rivers were magnificent.

A bit further along, stop at the Zhinvali Reservoir — the turquoise water against the hills is worth a quick stop, though it won’t take nearly as long as the monastery. The dam was built in the mid-1980s across the Aragvi River and now supplies part of Tbilisi’s drinking water. The reservoir actually sits on top of a medieval town of the same name, which was flooded when the dam went in — on years when water levels drop, remains of old buildings are sometimes visible again.

The drive from Tbilisi to Kazbegi takes around 3,5 hours without stops — longer with them.

Where to stay in Stepantsminda (Kazbegi):

• Intourist Kazbegi ★ (My pick — the mountain views from the hotel were beautiful.)
• Kazbegi 4U — a small, family-run guesthouse with a garden and good homemade breakfast, for a budget option.
• Rooms Hotel Kazbegi — the area’s design-hotel pick, with an indoor pool and a terrace looking straight out at Mount Kazbek and Gergeti Trinity Church, for a splurge.

By the way, if you would rather visit Kazbegi as a separate day trip from Tbilisi and not drive there yourself, that’s totally possible as well and there are really affordable tours you can book online such as this one. I have written a full guide on how to get to Kazbegi, so read my How to Get to Kazbegi guide for information about driving vs. tour options.

Day 2: Stepantsminda/Kazbegi

Budget a minimum of two nights here — one full day is genuinely tight if you want to see more than one sight, so extend your stay if you can.

Gergeti Trinity Church

This is the number one sight in Stepantsminda. You have three options: book a day tour, hike all the way up, or drive there.

Note that when you visit the church, women will need to wear a long skirt and cover their hair, and men can’t enter with shorts. I was wearing long pants and I was handed a skirt to wrap around me when I entered.

It’s not just the monastery, but the surrounding areas are also beautiful with mountain views and stunning landscape so I would budget properly time to visit this place.

Other things to do in Kazbegi:

• Dariali Monastery — the monastery complex sits in a dramatic gorge close to the Russian border and offers stunning mountain views and a unique spiritual atmosphere. You can combine visiting this monastery with Gergeti Trinity Church with this tour.
• Gveleti Waterfalls — a short, easy hike close to town if you want something low-effort and beautiful waterfalls. You can book a tour online that combines Gergeti Trinity Church, Gveleti Waterfalls, and Sno Valley.
• Gergeti Glacier — for those who want to keep going past Gergeti Trinity Church, you can continue on a trail to the glacier.
• Sno Valley — a small village on the way to Juta, known for its collection of giant stone heads carved by local artist Merab Piranishvili, each one depicting a famous Georgian writer, poet, or historical figure. You can book a tour online that combines Gergeti Trinity Church, Gveleti Waterfalls, and Sno Valley.

Where to stay in Stepantsminda:

• Intourist Kazbegi ★ (My pick — the mountain views from the hotel were beautiful.)
• Kazbegi 4U — a small, family-run guesthouse with a garden and good homemade breakfast, for a budget option.
• Rooms Hotel Kazbegi — the area’s design-hotel pick, with an indoor pool and a terrace looking straight out at Mount Kazbek and Gergeti Trinity Church, for a splurge.

Day 3: Drive to the Wine Region — Ethno Sazano Wine Estate

From Stepantsminda, I drove to the wine region of Imereti. I stayed close to Kutaisi at Ethno Sazano wine estate hotel to taste local wine and relax. Georgia’s most popular travel destination for wine is actually Kakheti, but that’s in the opposite direction of this loop, and I still wanted to fit in some wine tasting — so I picked this area instead, conveniently placed between Stepantsminda and Mestia.

This region is actually one of the top five main wine-growing regions in the country, so there are lots of wine estates where you can stay. I chose to stay at Ethno Sazano Wine Estate, a boutique wine hotel with decades of history.

The road got a bit bumpier as I got closer to the property. A normal car will get you there fine, but a 4×4 would be more comfortable if you have the option. If you start early, you’ll also have time to visit a few sights along the way, like the Katskhi Pillar, which is close by.

Ethno Sazano had excellent wine straight from their own winery, which I got to taste, and delicious homemade meals, and the rooms were very comfortable with rustic charm to them. 

It’s not the only good hotel option around here. If you want to break up the long drive from Kazbegi to Mestia somewhere well-placed for the next day’s sights, here are a few other wine estate hotels in the area:

• Gonadze Vineyards Hotel — in Ambrolauri with its own vineyard, an outdoor pool, and homemade meals, including wine made on-site from the local Khvanchkara and Tvishi grapes.
• Wine Hotel Korenishuli Veranda — a small, family-run wine hotel in Korenishi village with home-cooked meals and the option to join in on winemaking during harvest season.
• Baias Wine — a family-run winery, farmhouse, and guesthouse near Kutaisi in Imereti. It’s a traditional 1970s Imeretian farmhouse in the village of Obcha, with home-cooked meals, genuinely rural surroundings, and the chance to walk the vineyards and taste wine from the family’s qvevri cellar.

Day 4: Secret Pool in Lailashi + Katskhi Pillar + Prometheus Cave

The next day, you can drive out to see the surrounding sights, including the Katskhi Pillar (if you haven’t already seen it the day before), Prometheus Cave, Secret Pool, and other sights — I specifically chose the wine estate for how conveniently it’s located to all of these.

The Katskhi Pillar is a natural limestone monolith about 40 meters tall, topped with a small monastery that only monks are permitted to climb up to — one lived there alone for two decades, coming down only a couple of times a week. It’s free to visit the base and small museum. 

Prometheus Cave, about an hour away near Kutaisi, is a stalactite cave with several illuminated chambers open to the public (entry ticket needed, with an optional underground boat ride); plan on one to two hours to walk through it.

I also visited the “Secret Pool” in Lailashi — a hidden mountain infinity pool tucked into a remote village. It’s fed by natural mountain springs, so the water is very cold, and it looks out over sweeping panoramic views of the gorge below. Worth noting: this isn’t really a tourist spot and it can be hard to find.

Also worth doing nearby:

• Sairme Pillars — a striking limestone rock formation close to Lailashi and the secret pool, with the ruins of a medieval church near the top. Reaching them takes a short 4×4 stretch followed by a walk of about 2.5 km (roughly 3 hours round trip), so it pairs naturally with the same day as the pool if you’re up for the extra hike.
• Sataplia Nature Reserve — dinosaur footprints and a karst cave, close to Kutaisi if you’re passing through. The footprints (from a local dinosaur species called Satapliazaurus) are original, not replicas, and the reserve also has a glass viewing platform over the forest; plan on about two hours.
• Motsameta Monastery — a short detour near Kutaisi with a dramatic gorge-top setting. It’s built on the spot where two 8th-century Georgian noblemen, David and Constantine, are said to have been martyred, and their relics are still kept inside; entry is free.
• Okatse Canyon or Martvili Canyon — if you have an extra day before heading to Mestia, either canyon walk is a popular add-on in this part of Imereti. Martvili is the boat-ride option, floating through a narrow turquoise gorge; Okatse is the vertigo option, with a hanging metal walkway running about 780 meters along a cliff face 140 meters up. Many day tours combine both.

There’s genuinely a lot to do in this area — next time, I’d spend longer here to see more of it.

Day 5–7: Mestia

From the wine estate area, I continued on to Mestia. It’s another full day of driving, so start early. When I left the wine estate, I first turned left following Google Maps’ directions, but the road quickly got narrow and rough enough that I turned back and took a longer route instead — worth keeping in mind, since Google Maps doesn’t always know which road is actually the better one to take.

The road closer to Mestia can also be rough in bad weather, with potholes or even landslides possible, so check conditions before you go. But the road is wide and mostly paved the whole way, so you don’t need to be a particularly skilled driver or have a 4×4 — just drive carefully and don’t overestimate your skills or speed.

I’d recommend staying a bit longer in Mestia. The drive there is long, and there’s enough to see in the area that a longer stay pays off. I stayed at Hotel Old House Mestia and would genuinely recommend it — the rooms were cozy and clean, and the best part was the terrace restaurant, which served delicious Georgian food with plenty of vegan options (Georgian cuisine naturally has lots of vegan options).

Things to do in Mestia:

• Koruldi Lakes — beautiful alpine lakes at an altitude of 2,700 meters. You can hike up or take a jeep. I took a jeep up and hiked only the upper part. There are also tours you can book on GetYourGuide.
• Cable car viewpoint — there’s a nice viewpoint up by the cable car.
• Glacier tour — if you’d rather do Chalaadi Glacier and Koruldi Lakes as a guided day trip instead of arranging it yourself, there’s a tour you can book online on GetYourGuide.
• Ushguli — one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in Europe, usually done as a full-day trip from Mestia; the road can be rough and is sometimes closed outside of summer, so it’s worth checking conditions before planning around it. The easiest way to visit is to book a tour online. This tour takes you to Ushguli from Mestia.
• Mestia History and Ethnography Museum — a smaller, indoor option for a rest day or bad weather.
• The Svan towers — I climbed up one — not for the faint-hearted, as the structure seemed a bit shaky, to say the least. Several towers are open to visitors and you can climb up for the view. Most of the roughly 175 surviving towers in the region date from the 9th to 12th centuries and were built as family refuges — part fortress, part storehouse. Mestia and Ushguli have the highest concentration, and Upper Svaneti’s towers have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.

Where to stay in Mestia:

• Hotel Old House Mestia ★ (My pick — delicious food with lots of vegan options, plus a terrace with nice views)
• Hotel Ushba in Mestia — a newer hotel right in the town center, with balconies and mountain views in every room and a hot tub on the terrace.
• Cottage TowerView in Mestia — a one-bedroom villa/cottage with its own kitchen and a terrace looking out at Mestia’s Svan towers, a good pick if you want more space and privacy than a hotel room.
• Ecohouse Svaneti — a budget guesthouse in a village just outside Mestia, family-run with home-cooked meals; a solid pick if you don’t mind being a short drive from the center.

Day 8: Drive Back to Tbilisi

The drive from Mestia back to Tbilisi in one day is long — the longest of the whole loop. This will take a minimum of 8 hours to finish. If you’d rather break it up, you could stay somewhere along the way, like Kutaisi or the wine region around it mentioned earlier. Alternatively, continue on to Batumi.

Optional extension: Batumi

If you have extra days and want to end the loop on the coast instead of heading straight back, Batumi is a popular add-on from this side of the country — a Black Sea city with a different pace from the mountains and wine country. I skipped it this time since I’d already seen the Black Sea from the Romanian side and wanted to keep this trip focused on the mountains, but if you haven’t been to the Black Sea before, I’d recommend adding it. There are plenty of nice beachside resorts to relax at, such as Le Meridien Batumi and Sheraton Batumi, both right on the Black Sea coast in the city itself.

FAQ

How many days do you need for this Georgia road trip? The minimum is five, but that makes for a very rushed itinerary. I’d recommend at least eight days — more if you want extra time in Mestia or plan to add Batumi.

Do you need a 4×4 to do this route? A normal car will get you through this loop, but there were still several times when I wished I had had a 4×4, so if you have the budget, rent that one.

Is it safe to self-drive in Georgia? Generally yes, but check conditions before mountain legs, especially outside summer. See the “What Driving in Georgia Is Like” section above for more detail.

When is the best time to do this loop? May through October. See the “Best Time to Visit” section above for more detail.

Can vegans eat well on this route? Yes — Georgian cuisine naturally has plenty of vegan options, so I always had plenty to choose from. Lobiani, lobio, pkhali, and ajapsandali are just a few of the vegan local dishes you can try.

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