Garage Door Zone Blog

New 877MAX Liftmaster Wireless Keyless Entry Keypad

2011-12-30T10:49:00.000-05:00

The new Liftmaster 877MAX Wireless Keyless Entry is now available. If you are looking to replace an older keyless entry or adding one to your existing operator then this is the one to get. The 877MAX will work with the following operators manufactured after January 1, 1993:

Liftmaster, Chamberlain, Sears, Craftsman and some Raynor operators are compatible.

Compatible Raynor openers include: Navigator, Pilot, Commander, Aviator, Endeavor, Ultra & Prodigy. Other Raynor openers (Flitestar, R170,R160,R150) may be compatible depending on the radio receiver attached to the opener. Email us at store@garagedoorzone.com if you have any questions.

How can you tell if your operator is compatible? Look at the program (or learn) button on the operator....if the button is Green, Red, Orange, Purple or Yellow then the 877MAX Keyless Entry will work with your operator.

With the new technology of the 877MAX Keyless Entry it is able to work on either the common 315MHz or 390MHz frequencies. And the programming of your 4-digit personal identification number is easy.

This new #877MAX Keyless Entry will replace the model #66LM Keyless (discontinued), #976LM Keyless, #977LM Keyless and the #377LM Keyless.

Feel free to email us at: Store@GarageDoorZone.com if you have any questions or CLICK HERE to purchase.

Raynor R-Series Opener Light Cover Discontinued

2011-06-30T09:42:00.000-04:00

As of June 2011 Raynor Manufacturing has discontinued offering replacement #6030015 R-Series Operator Light Covers. The production of the R-Series electric operator (which includes models R110, R120, R130, R150, R160 and R170) was discontinued in the late 1990's but most replacement parts have been available since then. Over the past couple of years certain parts are being discontinued as newer models of electric operators are being promoted.

The Raynor R-Series operator was one of the best residential garage door operators to be built and it's a shame that it's no longer available. It isn't the fanciest or quietest opener out there but it is a work horse. They just don't make them like that anymore. I expect that more replacement parts will become obsolete over the next couple of years and the consumer will be forced into buying a whole new opener. This light cover is just another step in that direction. About a year ago the control logic boards for the R100 to R150 openers were discontinued. It's a slow death of a great operator...............

Programming Marantec Remote Video

2011-04-01T15:50:00.000-04:00

Here's a new video from Marantec that will show you three different ways to program a newer Marantec remote (like the M3-2312, M3-3313 or M3-2314). You can either transfer the code from one "M3" remote to another, transfer the code from an older "ML" remote to an "M3" remote or program the remote using the buttons on the powerhead. Remember, you only program one remote....if you have more than one remote then you will transfer the code from the one that is programmed to the additional remotes.

Enough talk....watch the video....

Marantec M3-631 Keyless Entry Programming

2010-12-29T15:45:00.002-05:00

Instructions on programming a Marantec model M3-631 Wireless Keyless Entry

Need a new Marantec Keyless Entry? Go to the GarageDoorZone.com web store today and get one!

SUMMER SALE

2010-08-11T10:02:00.000-04:00

Save on Raynor and Linear brand radio controls and replacement parts. Sale ends 08/31/10.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO THE GARAGE DOOR ZONE STORE

Raynor Discontinues Pre-1993 Opener Parts

2010-05-20T09:33:00.001-04:00

Raynor Manufacturing has announced that it will no longer supply parts for pre-1993 Raynor residential openers in an effort to supply products that meet the most recent Federal and UL safety standards.

Effective immediately, parts are no longer supplied for R100, R110, R120, R220, R130, R230, R150 and R250. These operators were built from 1982 to 1992. In 1992 rules were put into place ensuring that all garage door openers manufactured after 1992 had external entrapment protection devices (safety sensors or photo-eyes) in addition to the internal contact reverse mechanism. Most garage door openers built before 1993 (including the one's listed above) are not equipped with the safety sensors and don't meet today's garage door opener safety standards.

So what do this mean to you? Well, unless the logic board on the opener has been fried, not much. Most parts are still available due to the fact that Raynor still offers parts for their R160 & R170 openers and these openers have the same parts as the pre-1993 operators except for the logic board. So if you need a belt or light cover they can still be had. Most remotes are still available also (but that's going to depend on what make & model of radio receiver is attached to the unit). But if the logic board is shot I'm afraid that the entire opener needs to be replaced. It doesn't seem fair but I guess nothing lasts forever....

Raynor PEC-R3 Safety Sensors Available

2009-12-01T09:40:00.003-05:00

Raynor Mfg. discontinued the production of the PEC-R3 Safety Sensors back in December 2008 but just last week announced that they have gotten an outside company to manufacture an after-market sensor for Raynor.

This is good news for all the Raynor R160 garage door operator owners. Up until now if the safety sensors (also known as photo-eyes) were to fail the operator became useless. Unfortunately a number of R160 opener owners have probably replaced their operators over the past couple of months because the sensors failed and there weren't any replacements.

The new #4050727 PEC-R3 Safety Sensors come with new mounting brackets and installation instructions. The connections on the ends of the sensors can plug into the existing wires so no new wiring is required.

These new PEC-R3 Sensors work with all of the model R160/R260 operators and some of the R170/R270 operators. It's best to double check your existing sensors to determine which sensors you need. If there are two wires coming out of one sensor and three wires coming out of the other sensor then you need the PEC-R3 Replacement Sensors. If you have two wires coming out of both sensors then you need the PEC-R4 Sensors.

Raynor PEC-R3 Safety Sensors

2009-11-18T11:15:00.004-05:00

***UPDATE 11-19-09**** REPLACEMENT PEC-R3 SENSORS WILL SOON BE AVAILABLE****
I just wrote the entry below yesterday explaining how Raynor Mfg. discontinued the PEC-R3 Sensors and that there weren't any (and there were no plans to have any) replacement sensors. I just received an email from Raynor Mfg. that they found a company to produce a replacement sensor (which they never told us they were pursuing). The replacement sensors should be available in the next week or so. I will post a new entry when they are available.
****************************************************************************

This has been covered before but I still get numerous emails every week from people looking for Raynor electric operator PEC-R3 Safety Sensors. As of December 2008, Raynor no longer manufactures or supplies the PEC-R3 Safety Sensors. They are obsolete. That being said, the following questions are usually asked:

1. What can I use as a replacement? There are no substitutes or replacement sensors for the PEC-R3 Sensors. It's unfortunate but I have not seen or heard of anything that will work in place of the Raynor sensors.

2. Is there a way to bypass the sensors? No. The openers are manufactured to work under the UL325 regulation. Basically the operator has to have safety sensors to function properly for the unit to close the garage door. If the sensors are not functioning then the opener will open the door but will not close it.

3. Will the Raynor PEC-R4 Sensors work in lieu of the PEC-R3 Sensors? No. They are manufactured differently. The PEC-R3 Sensors were used on model R160 and some R170 operators. The PEC-R4 Sensors are used on most model R170 openers and all Flitestar operators.

4. How can I tell if I have PEC-R3 Sensors or PEC-R4 Sensors? There are two ways to determine which sensors you need. The part number should be printed on the top of sensors (either PEC-R3 or PEC-R4). If you don't see the part number check & see how many wires are coming out of the Receiver Sensor...if there's 3 wires (red, black & white) then you have PEC-R3 Sensors. If there's only 2 wires then you have PEC-R4 Sensors.

5. What do I do now? Unfortunately there isn't much you can do. As a last resort you can call around to different Raynor Dealers and see if any of them still have the sensors on stock. The downside to this is that you will be putting money into an operator that has obsolete parts. The upside is that as long as the sensors don't fail the opener will probably last another few years.

It's too bad that the PEC-R3 Sensors were discontinued because the Raynor R160 is a good workhorse of an opener. But like everything built these days products are discontinued for more sleek, fancier products but not necessarily better. Today's T.V.'s, computers, power tools, etc. are hardly worth fixing when they break. When the repair costs are 1/2 the price of a new ______ (fill in the blank) then you might as well just buy a new one. It's unfortunate but that's the world we live in.

If you'd like to send Raynor Mfg. an email & ask them to reconsider their decision to stop manufacturing replacement PEC-R3 Sensors you can send it to: thegarage@raynor.com. Perhaps if they get enough emails they'll bring the PEC-R3 Sensors back. You never know. Stranger things have happened.

Adjustable Opener Reinforcement Bracket

2009-08-26T16:32:00.005-04:00

Having trouble attaching the garage door operator arm to the top section of the garage door? Is the top section starting to crack from the stress of the garage door operator? Then a reinforcement bracket may be the answer. An adjustable opener reinforcement bracket works great for attaching the garage door opener arm to the top section of the garage door. The added strength of the bracket helps keep the top sections of steel doors from cracking over extended use.

They can be adjusted to fit section heights of 18" up to 24". They're only 2" wide so in most cases the bracket can be mounted between windows if need be. With the use of the reinforcement bracket the mounting bracket that's supplied by the opener manufacturer can be eliminated.

Raynor Discontinues Silkscreen Glass

2009-05-07T08:19:00.002-04:00

Raynor Garage Door Manufacturing has discontinued the silkscreen glass design for their garage doors. Raynor has offered this option for over 20 years in Sunburst, Sherwood and Cathedral designs. It seems that perhaps sales of the silkscreen option have fallen over the years and it just made business sense to drop the option.

Marantec M3-631 Keyless Entry Programming Instructions

2009-03-28T19:44:00.002-04:00

We've had a lot of requests for various programming instructions & I've emailed tons of people with the instructions but it's getting a little overwhelming. So we're going to start publishing some of the most requested instructions on the blog. If you're still confused or have questions feel free to email us at: store@garagedoorzone.com and we'll be happy to help you the best we can.

Here are the programming instructions for the Marantec M3-631 Wireless Keyless Entry

Garage Door Zone St Patricks Day Sale

2009-03-14T15:12:00.003-04:00

The Garage Door Zone St Patrick's Day Sale is on until Saturday March 21st 2009. Save 5% on all orders over $50.00. No coupon is required.
Save on Marantec, Raynor, Liftmaster and Linear brand garage door operator remote controls, keyless entries, wall stations, safety sensors and other replacement parts.

Raynor Flitestar Opener Parts

2009-02-15T16:48:00.008-05:00

The Raynor Flitestar garage door opener. What can I say - you've probably have either had a good experience with it or you've had a bad experience - there isn't much in between. Raynor hasn't manufactured the Flitestar operator for a few years and parts for it are becoming scarce. One of the major weaknesses of the operator is the logic board. Power surges and close by lightning strikes could easily knock out the logic board. Unfortunatley the logic board is one of the parts that is no longer available. Another obsolete part is the wall station. After years of use the buttons on the wall station can get sensitive and cause the opener to "act up". If the wall station "acts up" or stops working just remove it & install a regular doorbell type button.

Some parts are still available. The worm gear assembly is still available. These will sometimes snap or crack when stressed. Another part that's still available is the li mit ass embly. The limits tell the operator when to stop when the door opens or closes. The limits sometimes get worn and the opener will either travel too far allowing the trolley to hit the powerhead or it may stop short leaving the door open a couple of inches. The PEC-R4 s afety sensor photo-eyes are still available . The teeth on the front idler sprocket can break or wear off over
time but replacements are currently available. Remote controls are still around but you'll have to read our other blog post remote controls to help determine which remote you have.

If one of the above parts has failed then I would recommend replacing that part and getting a few more years out of the opener. A new opener is nice but they can also have their drawbacks with all the new electronics and gadgets that manufacturers like to add. If the logic board has failed then you'll have no choice but to purchase a whole new operator.

Raynor 545RGD Radio Receiver

2009-02-06T11:46:00.005-05:00

Sometimes the radio receivers on electric operators will go bad and the remotes will no longer work. A power surge or lightning strike nearby can cause the receiver to fail. The Raynor 545RGD Radio Receiver is an external mounted receiver that was used on some (but not all) Raynor operators such as the R-Series (R150,R160,R170,etc.) or the Flitestar models.

If your remote controls have any of the following Raynor model numbers on them then the 545RGD Receiver will work with them:

The 545RGD Radio Receiver is 390MHz frequency Code Hopping and will accept the above rolling code Security + remotes and the others listed. It will hold 8 of the Security + remotes (the 900 series), one of the 600 series or 12 of the 800 series of remotes. Note that the 900 series of remotes can't be mixed with the other series of remotes but you can use the 600 series with the 800 series.

Liftmaster Garage Door Safety Sensors

2008-12-21T10:16:00.005-05:00

Liftmaster garage door operators have two different styles of photo-electric safety sensors. So which one do you buy when yours stop working? That's going to depend on how old your operator is. You'll either have the older 41A4373A Liftmaster bolt style that bolts through the mounting bracket or the newer 41A5034 Liftmaster "Snappy Sensors" that snap into the mounting bracket.

The 41A4373A Safety Sensors are compatible with Liftmaster operators manufactured from 1993 to 1997. You can tell this is the sensor you need by the bolt that goes through the center of sensor and bolts to the bracket. They're compatible with opener models 1240, 1245, 1246, 1250, 1255, 1256, 1260 and ATS. Compatible with Liftmaster, Sears, Craftsman and Chamberlain.

The newer 41A5034 Snappy Sensors are compatible with Liftmaster operators manufactured from 1997 to current. You can recognize the Snappy Sensors because they snap into the mounting brackets. These sensors work with operator models 1265, 2265, 2280, 2500, 2580 and other current models. Compatible with Liftmaster, Sears, Craftsman and Chamberlain.

As much of a pain the safety sensors are (especially when they're not working) you need to have them. They offer protection from the garage door operator closing on your car, yourself or a loved one. You'll know they're not working if your remote won't close the door and you have to use constant pressure on the wall button to get the door to close. This doesn't mean they're broke it just means they aren't working properly. Before you buy a new set of sensors check and make sure there's nothing blocking the sensors, there's no loose wires and the sensors are "looking" at each other & aren't knocked out of alignment. If you've done that and they still don't work then you'll probably have to get new sensors.

Marantec M3-631 Keyless Cover

2008-12-17T08:43:00.004-05:00

Sometimes with use things tend to break. Well, with the Marantec M3-631 Wireless Keyless Entry the weak spot seems to be the cover that closes over the numeric keypad. With use and exposure to the elements the cover can crack or break so the tabs no longer stay in the holes and you're left with either taping the cover on or replacing it. Fortunately the covers are inexpensive and look a lot better than duct tape. If the Marantec Keyless cover breaks then just replace it - your keyless will appreciate it.............

Raynor Remotes Part II - Flitestar & R-Series Openers

2008-09-12T15:58:00.015-04:00

Finally, I can address the other Raynor remotes that people ask about. A month or so ago I addressed remote controls for the newer style of Raynor operators (Pilot, Aviator, Commander, etc.). Now I'm going to cover the remotes for the Raynor Flitestar & R-Series (R110/210, R120/220, R130/230, R150/250, R160/260 & R170/270) garage door operators.

First, the radio receiver for the Flitestar & R-Series of operators is not built into the units like the current operators. This means that the installation company or distributor you got the operator from added the receiver when it was installed. This can cause some problems when trying to help customers because there were many different radio receivers on the market 10 or 20 years ago that the installer could have used so I can't cover them all. I will cover the one's we've used and are still available. If you don't see yours below then the receiver & remotes may or may not still be available. The best thing to do is to email me at: store@garagedoorzone.com and I'll try to help you. Please include the make & model # of the radio receiver attached to the opener (you will probably have to remove the receiver & look on the back for this information).

Linear - very common in the 1980's to early 90's. This equipment is still being manufactured. If you have a Linear Delta-3 radio receiver then the Linear DT-1 Remote is what you need. There are 8 DIP switches in the remote that are matched up to the 8 switches on the back of the radio receiver. This was good reliable radio equipment and is still being used by some.

Liftmaster - in the late 80's this equipment started to become popular and is probably the most popular radio equipment on the market today. If you have a model #500RGD (500LM) radio receiver then you'll probably have the #61RGD 1-button remote or #63RGD 3-button remote. These remotes are easy to distinguish by the red LED light on them and the 9 trinary DIP switches in the battery compartment. These are the oldest Liftmaster remotes still being produced.
The next model of remotes by Liftmaster to come out were the #81RGD 1-button and #83LM 3-button remotes. These are the 390MHz "Billion Code" style remotes and worked with the #520RGD and #540RGD radio receivers. They eliminated the DIP switches and incorporated the "Smart Button" technology into the #8x series of remotes making the programming even easier.
The last Liftmaster model that may have been used on the Raynor R-series or Flitestar operators is the #971RGD 1-button or #973RGD 3-button 390MHz Security + rolling code remotes. These were used for a number of years until the current 315MHz frequency remote controls came into use a 4 or 5 years ago.

There's a few other makes of radio equipment still being manufactured and may have been used on the older Raynor openers. The Multi-Code #308911 1-button 300MHz remote is made by Linear and is compatible with #109920 Multi-Code radio receiver. The Linear GT-30 Remote is a Genie compatible unit that will work with the 390MHz Genie Pro Intellicode radio receivers from 1996 or newer. The GT30 is also compatible with Overhead Door CodeDodger and Linear AM-RGR access control receivers.

This is by no means all of the radio equipment that's was or is available. Some of the older stuff is discontinued and some of it is still manufactured but isn't that popular. If you don't see your remote control then send us an email (store@garagedoorzone.com) with a description of what you need and we'll try and track it down for you or give you some options.

Marantec Mac Lift Deluxe 2005 and Elite 2007 Series Openers

2008-07-18T23:45:00.007-04:00

Do you happen to own a Marantec Mac Lift Deluxe 2005 Series or Elite 2007 Series garage door opener? Are you looking for a replacement remote? Well, I've got good news and bad news. The bad news is that Marantec no longer makes the remotes for these openers. The good news is that you don't have to junk your garage door opener - there is a solution.

The Mac Lift Series of operators came equipped with a 40MHz (or 433MHz) radio receiver and remotes . Somewhere along the line Marantec decided to manufacture two new models of operators - the M-Line and Q-Line. At this point they had three main models in the line and decided three was too many (this is my theory). They stopped production of the Mac Lift series of openers and the use of the 40MHz (433MHz and 390MHz) radio receivers and remotes. What are all the Mac Lift owners to do for new remotes? Not to worry. Marantec came up with a solution.

The #73870 Plug-In Radio Receiver. I know I've written about this receiver before but I get A LOT of questions pertaining to the Mac Lift openers so I figured it would be best to have a separate blog. The plug-in radio receiver is just that - it plugs in to an electrical outlet. You then run two wires (bell wire which is included) from the receiver to the back of the powerhead. If you plug the receiver in the ceiling where the opener is plugged in then you're only going to use about 3 feet of wire. After you have it hooked up, you press the program button on the plug-in receiver, then press the button on the M3-2312 Remote control (included) and PRESTO! or SHAZAMM! your done. You now have a working remote for your Mac Lift opener.

The Marantec External Plug-In Radio Receiver utilizes the 315MHz radio frequency. This is the same frequency that their newer models use plus almost every other manufacturer in the garage door opener industry uses. It's a good solid unit and should give you the ability to use your opener for many more years.

Marantec M3-631 Wireless Keyless Keypad

2008-07-10T21:52:00.004-04:00

The Marantec M3-631 Wireless Keyless Entry System. Marantec isn't the first company to make a keyless entry but what a great invention. The keyless entry has been around for a number of years but it still ranks as one of the best additions to the electric garage opener. No longer do you need to carry those bulky house keys around. Just enter four digits (if you remember them) and your in the garage. I've actually met people who depend solely on the keyless entry to get into their house (maybe your one of them). Not a very good idea. If the power goes out your stuck outside until it comes back on. I suggest if you do this that you at least hide a house key outside under a rock or something.

The Marantec M3-631 Wireless Keyless Entry is a 315MHz unit. It will work with all of the Marantec operators that have the 315MHz radio receiver. If you look on the back of your remote control you'll see the frequency printed on it - if it is 315MHz then the M3-631 is compatible with your operator.

You can control up to 3 Marantec garage door operators with one keyless entry. For the keyless entry system to work you'll need to transfer the code from a working M3-2312, M3-231 4, or M3-3313 remote control using a jumper cable. If you have one of the older model remotes from the ML series you'll need to request an "old to new" jumper cable when you order it.

One note of warning about the M3-631 Marantec keyless entry - there is a plastic membrane over the keypad numbers. Do not use your car keys, fingernails, or any other sharp object to press on the numbers. If you do then it will eventually damage the keypad. Some people have said they've done this because the numbers weren't lighting up when they pressed them with their fingers. If the numbers don't seem to be responding to the pressure of your finger then take the keypad off the jamb. There's a screw on the bottom of the mounting plate - turn it and the keypad will lift off. Take the 4 screws off the back and pull the keyless apart. Inside is a rubber membrane with nubs that depress the actuators on the control board. If these get misaligned sometimes the numbers won't light up. Make sure that it is seated so they depress properly. Check the batteries while you're in there to make sure they're not dead. Put the screws back in and tighten. Test the unit and see if it works any better (8 times out of 10 it will).

That's about it for the M3-631 Marantec Wireless Keyless Entry System. Just another one of those things that makes our lives a little bit easier.

Raynor Opener Replacement Belt

2008-07-08T22:48:00.004-04:00

Where do you get a replacement belt for your Raynor opener? Now we're not talking about the new style of belt drive system on some of the newer openers. We're talking about the v-belt that is found in the older Raynor R-series of garage door operators.

If you have one of the following Raynor garage door opener models then it will have a 3L-310 v-belt in it:

R100
R110
R120
R130
R150
R160
R170

These were well built units. There wasn't much to them but they did the job. Unfortunately Raynor stopped making the R-series of openers in the 1990's. It's too bad because as far as openers go they seemed to do a great job - open and close the garage door. They didn't have all the bells and whistles that the newer openers have but they also didn't have some of the problems the newer openers have.

If you have an R-series Raynor garage door opener I would recommend keeping it. Upkeep on them is very minimal. Lube & tighten the chain once in a while. Replace the 3L-310 v-belt when it seems worn. Maybe replace the remote if it wears out. If you do this then you should get many years of service out of it.

Raynor Garage Door Opener Remotes - Part I

2008-07-06T00:17:00.007-04:00

Need a remote for your Raynor garage door opener? If the answer is yes then we need to determine which opener you have first so you can get the correct remotes. The following information is only for these Raynor operators:

Pilot 1/2 h.p. opener
Navigator 1/3 h.p. opener
Endeavor 3/4 h.p. opener
Commander 1/2 h.p. opener
Aviator 1/2 h.p. opener
Ultra 3/4 h.p. opener

Note: if you have a Raynor Flitestar opener or one of the Raynor "R" Series openers (R150, R160, R170) you'll have to wait until I write about those another time or email me if you have a question. There's a lot of information to cover on remotes for those openers that I just can't cover now.

The newest Raynor garage door openers have a radio frequency of 315MHz so the only remotes to work with them will be the number "3" series of remotes - #371LM 1-button Remote, #373RGD 3-button remote and #377LM Wireless Keyless Entry Keypad. You can determine if you need a 315MHz remote by looking on the back of an existing transmitter if you have one. The model number will be stamped on the back. If you don't have a remote then you'll have to look at the powerhead to find the frequency. Look on the back of the powerhead unit on the ceiling (you may have to take the light cover off depending on which model of opener you have). You should see a small square purple button - this is the program button. If you see a purple button then you will need the 315MHz radio transmitters. If you see a red program button then read on.

The slightly older Raynor garage door openers have the same model names as listed above but they are 390MHz frequency. If you see a red program button on the back of the powerhead unit then you will need the number "9" series of remotes - #971LM 1-button Remote, #973RGD 3-button Remote and #976LM Wireless Keyless Entry Keypad.

That covers the Raynor garage door openers from the past 10 years or so. If you have one of the Raynor openers from the 1980's to late 1990's then you'll have to email me if you have questions (store@garagedoorzone.com) or wait for the next installment when I cover those openers. Those operators didn't have built-in radio receivers from the manufacturer so it was up to the installing dealers to add the radio receiver of which they could add any number of different receivers. I'll cover the receivers we used over the past 20 years and some tips on finding the right remote for you.

Liftmaster #375LM Universal Remote

2008-07-05T15:05:00.000-04:00

Liftmaster has introduced a new universal 2-button remote control. You're probably asking yourself - "How does this benefit me?". Well, the best thing about this remote is that you can control two different operators that have two different frequencies (they can also be from different manufacturers). It's the new Liftmaster #375LM Universal 2-Button Remote Control.

Say you have two garage door openers and one of them no longer works and it would be too costly to repair (or parts are no longer available to fix it). So you decide to put a brand new opener in (say a Linear or Liftmaster opener) but you don't want to replace the other operator (why should you - it still works). The only problem is the old opener has an older 310MHz frequency radio receiver on it and the new opener has a 315MHz frequency radio receiver. In the "old days" you would have to have two separate remotes to control both operators but not anymore. Liftmaster developed a single remote that can control two separate radio frequencies. All you have to do is program the one button of the remote into your new opener and the other button into your old opener.

The remote is compatible with the following manufacturers and frequencies:

Genie®
Linear/Moore-o-Matic®
Stanley®
Overhead Door®
Wayne-Dalton®
Craftsman®
Chamberlain®
LiftMaster®
NOT COMPATIBLE WITH MARANTEC OR HORMANN

The following frequencies can be used with the remote:

300/310/315/372/390 MHz systems

I have to admit when I first saw the programming instructions for the Liftmaster #375LM Remote I was a little shocked - it looked like it was going to be a huge undertaking. It wasn't though. Once I figured out which frequency of openers I wanted to program the other parts of the instructions are pretty much ignored and I followed the instructions for a particular unit. It wasn't difficult.

So there you have it. A unique remote that can solve a few different problems. Weather you need to replace a remote for an old opener or you need a remote that works with both newer and older operators, the Liftmaster #375LM Universal Remote seems to fit the bill.

Raynor Garage Door Opener Light Cover Replacement

2008-07-04T11:14:00.010-04:00

I know it sounds boring (ok it is boring) but we get a lot of questions on what to do about discolored or broken light covers. The light covers or globes on electric openers break or turn yellow and need replaced at some point during the life of the opener. Half of the garage door opener owners out there don't care if there's a light cover on their opener or not - as long as the door goes open and closed. The other half likes to take special care of their openers and don't want any defects in the unit - they want the machines to look as good as they run.

A lot of opener light covers will turn a yellowish color over many years of use and the plastic becomes brittle. Or while the light bulb is being changed it drops on the floor and breaks. A new light cover can really brighten up the opener and the garage. It will also help protect the light bulbs from being broke.

If you have a newer style Raynor garage door opener (newer styles started in 2001 and have a curved cover - older styles were square or rectangular) then the #6031007 Rayn or Light Cover
should "cover" your needs (cheesy pun intended). These light cover (or globes as some like to call them) will work on the following Raynor openers:

Aviator
Ultra
Endeavor
Pilot
Navigator

If you have one of the older Aviator or Pilot openers (2001 or older) then you'll need one of the rectangular #108D34 light covers. These also fit the Liftmaster opener models: 1050, 1150, 1250, 1265, 1270, 1280 and 1280R.

If you have a Raynor Commander opener then the #6031014 Raynor Light Cover will be the one you want.

If you have an older Raynor Navigator opener (model 1245RGD or 1255RGD) then the 108D36 Light Cover will work. This one will also be compatible with Liftmaster opener models: 1040, 1045, 1055, 1140, 1145, 1155, 1240, 1245, 1255, 1046, 1146, 1246, 1256 and 1256R. This isn't a complete list of models covered.

What if you have an older Raynor operator like the R150? Raynor still has light covers for these older models and they'll work on any of the R-Series operators (R100, R110, R120, R130, R150, R160 and R170). The #6030015 Raynor Light Cover will fill this need.

That about "covers" it (sorry couldn't resist). Not much to it but it should answer those burning questions about opener light covers. If you do have any other questions please feel free to drop us an email.

How To Program Marantec 315MHz Remote

2008-06-24T15:20:00.012-04:00

PROGRAMMING USING PROGRAMMING CONNECTOR
There's a couple of ways to program a new remote. For this discussion I'm going to refer to the M3-2312 2-button remote but it holds true for the M3-2314 4-button remote and the M3-3313 3-button keychain remote.

All new remotes come with a programming connector and instructions. If you have an existing M3-2312 remote then the easiest way to program the new remote is to use the programming connector. You connect the jumper between the existing remote and the new remote - press and hold the button on the existing remote that currently works your opener then press & hold the button on the new remote that you want to work the opener - the LED light on the remotes flicker & you're done. Nothing to it.

PROGRAMMING REMOTE WITHOUT A PROGRAMMING CONNECTOR
However, what do you do if you don't have an existing remote (perhaps you lost it or you just moved into the home and they didn't leave you a remote). Here's a rundown on how to program a new remote by using the buttons on the powerhead unit on the ceiling instead of the programming connector (this is for the M-Line series but is similar for the Q-Line - email us if you need instructions for the Q-Line). You should see 3 red buttons: "+"button / "-"button / "P"button. There are also 8 numbered red LED lights:

TO MAKE OR CHANGE ANY ADJUSTMENT: Press & hold the "P" button for approximately 2 seconds. When all the LED's illuminate and LED #1 begins to blink, release the button. You are now ready to start programming. Press the "P" button until the #7 LED is illuminated LED #7 should be blinking. The opener can now learn the code of the hand-held remote.
While LED #7 is blinking, press and hold the button on the remote. Once the opener has successfully received the code from the remote, press and release the "P" button. This stores the code in memory. It also completes the adjustment setting sequence and completes the program process. The LEDs will automatically fade out in a circular pattern which indicates that the program mode is complete. LED #8 should now be illuminated and the opener is ready for operation.

If you have another remote that needs programmed after programming one through the powerhead then use the programming connector as previously described.

PROGRAMMING OLD ML-1312 TO NEW M3-2312 REMOTE

If you have an older ML-1312 315MHz remote and you have a newer M3-2312 315MHz remote then you'll need an "old-to-new" jumper cable. This works the same way as the programming connector (as described above). These programming connectors used to be free but as of January 2010 Marantec Mfg charges for them. If you need a programming connector they can be found here on our webstore.

That's about it - hope this information has been helpful.

Marantec ML1401, ML1402, ML1404, ML2401, ML2402, ML2404 Remotes

2008-06-23T18:52:00.001-04:00

Marantec no longer manufactures the 40MHz frequency remote controls which include the following model/part numbers: ML1401(8030469), ML1402(8030470), ML1404(8030471), ML2401(8030475), ML2402(8030476) and ML2404(8030477). If you have an opener with a 40MHz radio receiver and you need a new remote or want extra remotes you'll have to buy a new receiver along with new remotes.

All of Marantec's current openers are 315MHz. No need to throw out your whole opener just because they don't make the 40MHz remotes anymore. Marantec makes an External Plug-in Radio Receiver Set (part#75424) which includes one M3-2312 2-button 315MHz remote. The unit is easy to install. You plug the receiver unit into an outlet and then run two wires (included) to two terminals on your opener power head. Program the M3-2312 remote control (included) and you're in business. Your opener should work for many more years.

Although I think Marantec should have continued to make the 40MHz remotes for the existing customers the External Plug-in Receiver seems to be a good solution. If for some reason you get a new electric operator after purchasing an External Receiver don't worry it wasn't wasted money. You can also hook the Marantec External Receiver up to other brands of electric openers (Liftmaster, Genie, Overhead, etc.).

You can find the External Receiver Set here on GarageDoorZone.com.

Here's a picture of the #73870 Marantec External Plug-in Receiver Set