Gardening Naturally with Claudia

Five Steps to a Healthy Lawn

2012-01-26T14:45:00.000-05:00

Lush Lawns Don't Just Happen

Every year I get questions on how to get that deep green, thick lawn using organic methods. Some folks think that 'organic' means letting nature do her thing, while not attending to any maintenance of the lawn. Others want instant results to the barest of essential grooming. Residential landscaping with turf is lovely when cared for appropriately. Let me describe how to achieve a good looking, healthy lawn.

#1 Compaction of soil is the most detrimental condition in a lawn. Areas that get a lot of foot traffic near walks and drives are most susceptible to compaction. If the children play on the grass, or the postal carrier walks across the lawn every day, compaction is bound to happen. Walking on wet grass can add to the problem by pushing out air and water from soil. Grass roots are dense, but no air, no water,.... the grass will not thrive.

Core aeration is an easy method to open up the root zone of the yard. I prefer to have the core removed, as opposed to just pushing in pins into the soil. By removing the core, air and water can be placed right at the roots. I recommend raking in a 1/4" layer of compost as the second step to the aeration. The compost has microorganisms that will draw nutrients right into the root zone. The opening left by the plugs will allow water to seep into the root area as well.

Compost allows the soil to drain while keeping moisture in the soil for a more drought tolerant lawn. If spreading compost is not available, an organic fertilizer of 8-3-3 or similar is also a good option. Either compost or organic fertilizer will add organic matter to the soil to feed the microorganisms for a healthy lawn.

#2 Having a thick turf can be as easy as over-seeding. The proper seed is important to this step. I suggest a seed that is appropriate for your conditions. Do you have a full sun area, a steep incline, or wish to reduce water needs? The turf industry can offer you a custom seed for your area. This winter season is a good time to overseed fairly simply. Dormant seeding, as this process is called, works well on frozen soil, or even a snow cover. Simply sow seed onto the yard with either a drop spreader or a broadcast applicator. The freezing and thawing of the soil over the next few months will allow the seed to be worked into the soil. Then, when temperatures are right, the seed will grow and thicken up your yard. Thicker turf is going to look better and, depending on the conditions, more weed resistance and drought tolerant.

#3 Thatch is the mat of grass shafts, roots above the soil line, and dead organic matter. This raking will open the soil up to allow rain to soak into the soil and nutrients to become available to the root system. I believe that a good liquid organic solution will help degrade that thatch and keep a thick layer from building up. A kelp or fish fertilizer can be used in a hose end sprayer even in the hot summer months. The solution will not burn and, along with breaking down the thatch, your lawn will get a good drink of N for a nice green lawn.

#4 Mow high - long blades of grass can a) shade weed seeds. b) hold moisture, and c) optimize photosynthesis. If more that one third of the blade is removed at once, the blade of grass is stressed and will wilt. Taller grass will minimize weed seed germination as well.

#5 Water Deeply. Deep watering draws the roots down into the soil. More moisture is available deeper into the ground, and the grass will not wilt as easily in periods of little rain. Water less often. Short, frequent waterings (wettings) do not allow the root systems to grow deeply. One inch of rain a week, for most turf allows the roots to remain moist without the contant watering. Usually about 45 minutes is enough water to get soil moist about 4 inches deep.

Lawn care does not have to take hours every weekend. Lawn care does not have to be expensive. A lawn you can be proud of is the ultimate reward. Enjoy, and thanks for stopping by.

Lawns - Benefits of a Healthy Lawn

2012-01-20T12:04:00.000-05:00

Lawn, Yard, Turf, Grass - It's a Good Thing

Much interest has been focused on gardening in recent years. The vegetable garden, the perennial garden, the cutting garden..... but one aspect of the home landscape, industrial landscape, and urban landscape that we overlook is THE LAWN.

We all have 'it' but 'it' is taken for granted. In 2004 total acres of turf was estimated at a whopping 46.5 million acres. The grass industry has available 7500 kinds of grass, with over 50 species being cultivated. Home owners in the US spend $6.4 billion annually on lawn care which includes fertilizers, weed and pest controls, equipment, and water. With this much money spent on grass, I was interested to see what benefits we do get.

Throughout time recreation as been staged on the lawn. Badminton, croquet, Frisbee... all need the grass. Sports like soccer and touch football at a family picnic use grass. Relaxation is the real game!

The human factor cannot be overstated.

(Note the unused chairs!)

Reducing tension and getting a feeling of well-being are benefits of lawns.

Turf has a positive effect on the environment too.

The front yard offers a cool space. Unlike the concrete walks and street that cook us, grass of eight front yards can actually have the cooling effect of a 70 ton air conditioner. (Our home equipment only has 4 ton capacity).

Lawns absorb water, reducing runoff, and erosion.

The root system of turf is dense. It pulls water into the soil, and filters the water that eventually get into the underground aquifer. According to The Lawn Institute one blade of grass can have 387 miles of roots. A healthy lawn can have 850 plants per square foot.

Sodded lawns actually pull in more moisture than seeded lawns even after after two years of growth. A healthy lawn can actually absorb more rain than a field of wheat by 6x, and 4x better than hay.

Healthy lawns - healthy water.

Air quality is also affected by grass. Carbon dioxide is pulled from the atmosphere and releases enough oxygen to support a family of four.

A 625 square foot lawn provides enough oxygen for one person for an entire day.

Tons of dust and dirt in the air are trapped by lawn each year.

Benefits of a healthy lawn are evident in cleaner water, less erosion, and cleaner air.

At the beginning, I stated the enormous amount of money we spend each year on our lawns. When asked why they are willing to do all that work and spend that amount of money, homeowners felt that they would recoup the money on the lawn with added value of their property. In fact, there is a 100% - 200% recovery rate on landscaping, in comparison to money spent on a patio or deck which only returned 40% - 70% of the investment.

Realtors also put an importance on curb appeal since a well maintained front yard has a perceived value to a buyer.

The healthy Lawn serves up alot of benefits. Relaxation, recreation, filter of air and water, and monetary value to the homeowner.

I couched this article as though we have 'healthy' lawns. I'll define that concept, and give ideas on how to achieve a healthy lawn next week.

What benefits do you get from your yard? Let us know. And thanks for stopping by. Claudia

Landscape - Common Practices that Cost Us

2012-01-15T10:40:00.000-05:00

Landscapes - Are We Making This Too Difficult?

God and Grass

I received this email a while back. I do not know the author to give credit. But I could not say it any better. (I've added the pictures.)

GOD:

Frank, you know all about gardens and nature. What in the world is going on down there on the planet? What happened to the dandelions, violets, milkweeds and stuff I started eons ago?

I had a perfect no-maintenance garden plan. Those plants grow in any type of soil, withstand drought and multiply with abandon. The nectar from the long-lasting blossoms attracts butterflies, honey bees and flocks of songbirds.

I expected to see a vast garden of colors by now. But, all I see are these green rectangles.

ST. FRANCIS:

It's the tribes that settled there, Lord. The Suburbanites. They started calling your flowers 'weeds' and went to great lengths to kill them and replace them with grass.

GOD:

Grass? But, it's so boring. It's not colorful. It doesn't attract butterflies, birds and bees; only grubs and sod worms.

Grubs

Billbug

It's sensitive to temperatures. Do these Suburbanites really want all that grass growing there?

ST. FRANCIS:

Apparently so, Lord. They go to great pains to grow it and keep it green. They begin each spring by fertilizing grass and poisoning any other plant that crops up in the lawn.

GOD:

The spring rains and warm weather probably make grass grow really fast. That must make the Suburbanites happy.

ST. FRANCIS:

Apparently not, Lord. As soon as it grows a little, they cut it-sometimes twice a week.

GOD:

They cut it? Do they then bale it like hay?

ST. FRANCIS:

Not exactly, Lord. Most of them rake it up and put it in bags.

GOD:

They bag it? Why? Is it a cash crop? Do they sell it?

ST. FRANCIS:

No, Sir, just the opposite. They pay to throw it away.

GOD:

Now, let me get this straight. They fertilize grass so it will grow. And, when it does grow, they cut it off and pay to throw it away?

ST. FRANCIS:

Yes, Sir.

GOD:

These Suburbanites must be relieved in the summer when we cut back on the rain and turn up the heat. That surely slows the growth and saves them a lot of work.

ST. FRANCIS:

You aren't going to believe this, Lord. When the grass stops growing so fast, they drag out hoses and pay more money to water it,

so they can continue to mow it and pay to get rid of it.

GOD:

What nonsense. At least they kept some of the trees. That was a sheer stroke of genius, if I do say so myself.

The trees grow leaves in the spring to provide beauty and shade in the summer. In the autumn, they fall to the ground and form a natural blanket to keep moisture in the soil and protect the trees and bushes. It's a natural cycle of life.

ST. FRANCIS:

You better sit down, Lord. The Suburbanites have drawn a new circle. As soon as the leaves fall, they rake them into great piles and pay to have them hauled away.

GOD:

No!? What do they do to protect the shrub and tree roots in the winter to keep the soil moist and loose?

ST. FRANCIS:

After throwing away the leaves, they go out and buy something which they call mulch. They haul it home and spread it around in place of the leaves.

GOD:

And where do they get this mulch?

ST. FRANCIS:

They cut down trees and grind them up to make the mulch.

GOD:

Enough! I don't want to think about this anymore. St. Catherine, you're in charge of the arts. What movie have you scheduled for us tonight?

ST. CATHERINE:

'Dumb and Dumber', Lord. It's a story about....

GOD:

Never mind, I think I just heard the whole story from St. Francis.*

I hope my story has humored us into rethinking how we garden. Are we 'mimicing' nature? Can we garden like nature? You betcha! Hope this gives us something to strive for - and take care of our environment. Thanks for stopping by. Claudia

Planning a New Landscape - Time to Refocus on Values

2012-01-12T13:44:00.002-05:00

Caretaker of the Home Landscape
My yard had a major face lift this past season. When we lost four big trees, the sun/shade dynamic was clearly changed. So..... I'd like to share my thoughts on the makeover, and what we are considering.

A couple of years ago, I wrote an article for the Montgomery County Master Gardeners newsletter on Permaculture. Two Australians, Bill Mollison and David Helmgren brought to the forefront the idea that humans need to 'mimic' relationships we find in nature. This idea translates into 'permanent agriculture,' and perhaps an even broader philosophy of, 'permanent culture'.

Becoming aware of patterns in nature, we can apply these patterns to our landscapes and our lives. For a species to survive and reproduce, essential needs must be met. Each species, whether plant or animal, has a natural expression and when these needs are met, harmony exists.

When we design an ecosystem with little or no stress on the plants chosen, the harmony is high. (My collection of hosta is not going to be happy with the full sun it is going to get.)

I need to create niches for the plants with minimum competition for light water, and nutrients for my plants to survive. By planting polycultures - groups of plants that work together - these companion plants will thrive.

This concept goes further to expect us to take responsibility for our own existence and therefore, we must design our communities to be more self-sufficient. Newly planned communities have shopping, doctors, and schools nearby. The plan not only saves us time, but also, fossil fuel use is greatly reduced.

Three keywords that the Permaculture mindset embraces are Fairshare, Peoplecare, and Earthcare.

Fairshare ideas have us limiting our consumption and using wisely and equitably products, foods, and fuels. Reduce, reuse, recycle is a familiar mantra of sustainability and permaculture. Share crops you cannot use, and buy locally grown (or made) products. Local purchases reduce fuel and lower transportation costs.

Peoplecare is supporting and helping others to embrace the concept of 'Do No Harm'. Sharing ways to care for our water resources, soil nutrient, soil erosion, and air pollution are aspects of 'do no harm'.

Earthcare encourages us to design the way nature does - in layers. Earth is the life source and with that in mind, we must treat it with care. From micro-organisms in the soil that make nutrients available to plants, food those plants provide, the carbon dioxide the plants absorb, and the oxygen the plants give off to sustain our life - - Yes, Earth is indeed the source of life.

All of this to say this.... If we put together the right things, in the right place, they will support each other and create harmony in our gardens, and in our lives. Observe nature, then intervene at the right time. Do not rush to impose your will.

I have some planning to do before I redesign my yard. And my foremost thought is to remember that these changes must be good for the Earth. And that we are a PART of the Earth, not APART from it.

Nightshade - A Family of Plants with a Dark Side

2012-01-05T12:17:00.002-05:00

Nightshade Vegetables and Ornamentals - Are They Tasty or Toxic?

I called some of the vines and plants in my yard 'weeds'. I didn't plant them there, and I certainly didn't like the intrusion. But, since I didn't want to upset the natural way of things in my garden, I researched these beasts to see if I would be on the nature lovers black list if I removed them.

Nightshade - Solanaceae

I read murder mysteries, and I know of many victims who succumbed to this plant - belladonna seemed to ring a bell. Yep, belladonna is a nightshade too! It is often referred to as 'deadly nightshade'.

Datura, or Jimson weed, Mandrake, and petunias all are in the nightshade family. All of these plants, stems, leaves and berries are poisonous!

Datura

Seed Pod of Jimson Weed

These seeds are a hallucinogen, and has also been call 'loco weed'.

Mandrake roots resemble humans and superstitions suggest the roots scream when they are pulled. These roots have a place in Wica and other magical rituals.

Mandragora plant is attractive but deadly.

But I would never eat any of these, right? Nightshade family has 1500 - 2000 species - many of them we do eat.

Nightshade vegetables include potatoes, tomatoes, bell peppers, Gooseberries, eggplant, and all kinds of chili peppers. The vegetables are safe to eat but the leaves of the tomatoes and potatoes are poisonous.
Eggplant should always be cooked well, and any potato that has turned green or has elongated eyes should be tossed.

All Nightshade plants have a substance called alkaloids. Potato and eggplant produce a Solanine. Tomatine is found in tomatoes, capsaisin, in chili peppers. These elements are in high concentrations in the leaves and stems of these plants and should never be eaten!

Tobacco, Necotiana, is a Nightshade as well. It produces nicotine, an alkaloid, that has long been noted as addictive.

Tomatillo

Chili Pepper

All of these are members of the Nightshade family.

Even though the alkaloids are dangerous to ingest, the plants have produced them to protect themselves from pests. The medical community does use some of them too. Atropine has been derived from Nightshade alkaloids, and is used as an eye dilator. Useful drugs have been developed from these plant substances to treat poisons, treat side effects of chemo and even sarin, which is a chemical warfare substance. And some research has indicated that eating Nightshade vegetables can exacerbate arthritis and other joint and muscle pain.

Petunia

Tomatoes and potatoes are a staple in our diets, and the vitamin and mineral benefits of each are well know. Just as in any family, Nightshade is a family of contradictions.

How to Read Plant Labels - Guidelines for Planting

2011-12-13T14:55:00.002-05:00

Understanding the Language of Gardening

Every industry has words that pertain to that field - 'missing' means something specific to an auto mechanic; 'temp' to a health care professional means something quite different than 'temp' means to employment agency.
I have tried to get into the texting world with my grand kids. I frequently get 'lots of love' (lol) from them - I think I've got this texting down!(?)

While showing a novice gardener a plant, I asked her "What kind of exposure will this get?"

"Oh, lots", she replied. "It will be right out front by the mailbox!" That disconnect between areas of interest caused me to have this conversation at a garden center where I was working. My reference to 'exposure' was quite different from what this young lady thought I meant.

I think these gaps in understanding could be lessened. So I'd like to start with the plant label. Growers take the time to print labels, and attached labels, but frequently folks don't understand what they are being told.

Let's look at this label.

Mandarin Lights Azalea - the common name that you and I would use. The second line, however, is Azalea X 'Mandarin Lights'. The botanical name is used by growers and other professionals in the green industry to distinguish this 'specific' azalea, "Mandarin Lights'. The specific name is the cultivar - or the cultivated variety. The grower has developed this by crossing (X) different azaleas to get the size or color blended from each.

The Northern Lights Series is a group of azaleas that have similar breeding, but may have different features - very much like siblings have in any family.

The bloom time for this azalea is spring, and the color 'bright orange red' is a description of the bloom. Foliage, or leaves, are dark green. (These description are on the label so even if the plant is not in bloom or the leaves haven't emerged for the season, the buyer has a reference of what to expect).

Planting guide for this azalea says the plant does best in well drained soil.

Obviously, this is not a good choice for planting this azalea.

The label also recommends 'acid' soil.

pH is the measure of available hydrogen (H) in solution in the soil. Some plants like an acid soil, (below 7) on this scale. Some plants needs are for alkaline (above 7) conditions. A soil test can determine what your soil pH is. Local extension offices or garden centers can assist you in this process. If you have acid soil, you are good to go with this azalea. However, if your test indicates you have a pH above 7, alkaline, then I would suggest you consider a different plant.

We can amend (supplement) soils with minerals. And your soil test will tell you what your soil is missing and how much to apply. However, changing the pH of your soil is difficult. The soil will always revert to its natural state. We can add lime to make a garden more alkaline; sulphur to make soil more acid. These steps will have to be repeated over and over again as your soil reverts to its natural pH. This calculates into a huge amount of time and money.

The next part of our plant label indicates this plant does best in 'part shade'.

Here is how this light requirement is best defined.

Full Sun - minimum of six (6) hours of direct sun.

Part Sun - or Part Shade are 4 - 6 hours of sun

Full Shade - maximum 2 hours of sun

Some growers will draw a picture - as above - this tells me that this plant can take full shade as shown by the full dark circle. And this plant will tolerate a little amount of sun Most plants do need some sun or bright light to bloom well.

The last feature of this plant label I wish to address is the reference to Zone 5. The US (the whole world, actually) is divided into Hardiness Zones. The coldest zone that a plant can survive is indicated on these labels. The Zone 5 is the coldest this azalea will survive. If this Zone 5 azalea were planted in Zone 4, a more northern region, it would probably not live.

Some gardeners like to 'push the envelope' when they plant less hardy plant material in their gardens. If you

replace too many plants too often, I think that novelty would wear off.

The plant labels are helpful if we plant according to the recommendation. I, for one, have put many plants to an early trip to the compost pile by putting it in the wrong spot in my garden.

The right plant in the right spot.

Read the label.

Have you ever challenged a plant to survive in a zone that was too cold? What plant? And what did you need to do?

Winter Plant Care - Prepare for the Cold

2011-12-08T16:26:00.003-05:00

Cold, Wind, Snow....Winter's Harsh Realities

Very cold, sub-freezing temperatures are forecast for my Zone 5b garden in southwest Ohio. I'm inclined to wrap up on the couch with a quilt and a plate of munchies nearby. As my poor, darling plants are out there facing the elements, I know I need to take some steps to protect some of the more delicate ones from the winter cold.

Mulching is probably the easiest method to insulate roses. I pile the chopped leaves up around the canes to 15" - 18". The root and stem joint, or bud union, should be covered. Certainly the canes may have winter die-back, but they can be pruned in the early spring. Hybred Teas are probably the most tender of the roses; shrub roses tend to be more hardy.

These two pictures show different types of winter damage - the evergreen in the container got its roots too cold. The pathway on the left shows winter damage of wind burn and salt damage.

Plants in containers are very susceptable to drying out and frozen roots. Watering during the winter should be continued. Water acts as an insulator in the soil. Frozen water is 32 degrees F. Dry soil with open air pockets can allow the air spaces to match the sub-zero wind chills of the outside temperatures.

I generally do not burlap my containers. I have said before, I'm a lazy gardener, so I tend to take a less time consuming approach. I gather my containers - some need the aid of a 2-wheel dolly - and I group them up near the west side of the house. I mound leaves around the pots to protect the roots from being exposed to cold winds. Some would tell you to use the north side walls, out of the sun, but I haven't had any losses (yet). The overhang is 3' wide, so again, watering manually is needed. A garden club friend, Marian, has 20-30 bonsai in some pretty, yet shallow containers. Most are trees and evergreens that typically go dormant. She has a trench near the house foundation in which she buries her pots. The bubble wrap can be purchased at an office supply store, and the burlap can be found at your local nursery or fabric store.

These simple screens can protect your plants during winter from windburn, salt damage, and sunscald.

Sun, wind, and cold affect broadleaf evergreens like rhododendron, azaleas, and holly. Moisture can be reduced in the leaves during the winter. Frozen ground reduces the uptake of water through the roots. Screening these evergreens with burlap can help reduce wind damage, and offer shade from winter sun.

Anti dessicants offer a film on the leaves to reduce moisture loss to our winter evergreens. ( Spray on your Christmas tree too, to have the holiday decorations a little longer.) Two products are Wilt-Pruf, and Stop-Wilt. Both can be found at garden centers and hardware stores.

Mulch gardens only after the ground is frozen. Mulching too early may cause the ground to not freeze and plants will not go completely dormant. Consequently, this semi-dormant condition, call deacclimation, can allow roots to be damaged by the cold even if this plant is labeled hardy to your zone.

Mulching at the right time can keep plants from 'heaving' (plant rises out of ground exposing more shallow roots). My heuchera - coral bells - are known for this.

Tying these arbortitea can protect the splitting of leader trunks - a common result of heavy snow.

Diciduous tree trunks are also suseptable to sunscald.

Thin barked trees like maples, young crabapples, or flowering fruit trees, and newly planted young trees may need additional protection.

In very cold weather the tree trunk can severly crack. The lack of water uptake is one reason. The sun itself, can allow the south facing trunk to be 60 degree while the back side, can be 32 degrees. This cracking can open your tree to insects and diseases.

Trunk wraps are also beneficial for protecting bark damage from animals. Rabbits, voles, and deer can get hungry, and our plants are fair game!

Voles, a small field mouse-like critter that loves to eat roots. I've had hostas come up (not) missing in spring thanks to the friendly neighborhood vole. Surface trails in the grass or snow give us a clue to the culprit.

Mulch and debris make a good cover for voles. Clean areas around plants can minimize vole activity. A 1/4" screen opening, extending 3-4 " below the surface around a susceptable bed can also lessen vole damage.

Rabbits will strip bark from trees and shrubs.

Barriers and repellants are useful deterrants. A 1 inch wire mesh around plants, at least 15" to 18" will work well.

Deer barriers need to be built around the tree so that the deer cannot reach into it to eat. Repellants work IF you are determined - respray after a rain. This urine based solution will wash away.

I know winter seems like a long cold season, but winter plant care will ensure spring will be its own reward.

Plants for Winter Brightness - Still Time to Plant

2011-12-01T20:19:00.001-05:00

Winter Color is More Than Black and White

Even though we have had measurable snow, the ground temperatures are still suitable for planting. If you can dig, the dormant shrub or evergreen will settle in just fine for the winter.

This is a holly I did not know, 'Orange Flame' a Ragon Grape Holly from Monrovia. Beautiful burgundy and red leaves caught my eye at a local garden center.

Nandina - spectacular

Hardy to Zone 6, this disease resistant variety, Firepower is a beauty.

I saw this at a local city park with ornamental grasses behind it. The tan behind the red was striking.

Viburnum is probably my favorite shrub, with many varieties that have quite different features among them.

Viburnum Brandywine has mauve berries. There are at least 83 varieties and cultivars of Viburnum in the nurseries. The American Cranberry Bush and Doublefile Viburnum both have red berries. Arrowwoods grows to 15' and has blue fruit. Leatherleaf Viburnum has black fruit .

Doublefile Viburnum plicatum tomentosum grows to about 9'.

These red berries appear in the fall on the Serviceberry, Amelanchier. Like Viburnum's, the Serviceberry, 'Autumn Brilliance', has a nice spring bloom. Four seasons of interest in this shrub that grows to 15' to 25' in Zone 4-9.

Ilex verticillata, Winterberry is a holly that is hardy in Zone 3-8. This plant is dioecious, which means it has either male or female plant parts on each plant. Therefore, you will need both male and female varieties to cross pollinate this plant in order to get blooms and fruit.. A dwarf variety, "Red Sprite" grows to 3'-4'.

Aronia , known as Chokeberry has reliable bright autumn color. Hardy to Zone 4-9, this plant has two varieties; one variety Black Chokeberry (A. melanocarpa), has black fruit, and another Aronia, Red Chokeberry (A. arbutifolia), has red fruit.

These shrubs are just a few that I have put on my list. Winter may not be sooooo loong(!) if I had a these to greet me on a cold, gray day.

Winter is a time to plan for spring, another way to endure the winter doldrums. A gardener associate of mine has a website you may enjoy, Mike's Backyard Nursery. Hubby has watched Mike grow and sell plants right out of his garden for several years. Quite a story. Enjoy.

Holiday Gifts Ideas for Gardeners

2011-11-26T15:36:00.001-05:00

20 Gift Ideas for Every Gardener on Your List

So you have a family member or good friend who gardens. What does she want? What does he need?

Let's be honest, we gardeners, or those we know, are always on the lookout for something to feed our passions. Here are just a few ideas.....

Garden gloves

These long cuff leather gloves are perfect for the rose garden - thorns are less likely to snag forearms and fingers.

Wind chimes

Some wind chimes are made of bamboo, some of multi-tonal metal, and like this blue one, glass.

Yard Art

These glass ornaments take on a magical element that any garden can use.

Priced about $25 at a local garden center near me.

Hand Tools

This sharpener from Kinsman will extend the life of shears, pruners, and even mower blades.

Glass Rooting Vases

Pretty and practical - just tuck in a stem and watch to roots grow.

Boots

Water proof footware let gardeners be classy, even in the mud.

Potted Gardens

1800flowers.com has many of these tabletop gardens.

Watering Cans

This yard-sized can is handy outside, but smaller lightweight ones for houseplants are available too.

Outdoor Clocks and Thermometers

Backyardcity.com offers this palm tree clock.

Gazing Balls

The gazing ball is a familiar accent in the garden. But today's gazing balls come with light, or glow in the dark. They give the night time garden a whimsical element.

Hand Crafted Pottery

Many garden centers and local artisan centers will have unique pottery available. Supporting local vendors is always rewarding for me. And your gift will be like no other.

Bird Baths

This bird bath has a sprinkler-drip for moving water for the birds. It is available at Wild Birds Unlimited.

Bird Feeders

Feeders that attach to the outside of a window make bird watching an inside sport. The dine-around bird feeder is available through http://www.amazon.com/

Rain Barrels

Earthminded offer this good looking rain barrel with a planter to top it off. Pretty and practical.

Window Sill Gardens

Epicurious has classic pots with you favorite herbs for a fresh touch in all recipes all season long.

Houseplants

This is a 'moneytree plant'. I've given this plant as office or house warming gifts. The five stem braided trunk is said to bring financial benefits into the business or family.

Metal Plant Markers

Markers come in many sizes and shapes. These copper ones can be etched with a pen for each plant identification. Easy to find in local garden centers and floral shops.

Small Garden Carts

Cart are a necessary tool for most gardens. Some have two wheels, as this one from Garden Harvest Supplies. Other carts have four wheels and flatbeds - and the standard wheel barrel is a favorite in most gardens.

Door Mats

This mat is made from coir - a coconut fiber that is a very renewable material.

Garden Center Gift Cards

Buy a gift card or discount member card. Most Garden Centers offer them and your gift can be used whenever your gardener seeks the latest 'must haves'.

So even though it does not feel like gardening weather, your gift to your gardener will be enjoyed thoughout the years.

Christmas Traditions - Why Do We Do That?

2011-11-16T15:21:00.002-05:00

Mistletoe and Holly

Families have traditions that they facilitate on occasions throughout the year-- fireworks on the 4th of July, cake on your birthday. Christmas traditions are accepted and followed, but I was curious to know where these annual behaviors originated.

Mistletoe - Phoradendren flavescens

American Holly- Ilex opaca

Mistletoe is a hemi-parasitic plant that grows on host plants, usually trees. The roots attach to tree tops where , thanks to bird dropping, they germinate and grow. Mistletoe draws nutrients from such trees as oak, apple, ash, hawthorn, pear, or sycamore.

The Druids 200 years before the birth of Christ, held the mistletoe in high regard. Since it had no roots the Druids marveled that this plant would stay green when the mighty oak had turned brown. Celtic groups believed the mistletoe to have magical healing componants and used it as an antidote for poisons, and treatment for infertility.

In English speaking countries this tradition has spread, but this custom is little known in other parts of the world. The gathering of the mistletoe has a customs of its own - in that the plant must not touch the ground from the harvesting until it is removed from the home. The mistletoe is the last decoration to be removed from the home and it offers to save the house from fire and lightening.

The Kissing Ball is another hanging arrangement of various herbs - sage, rosemary, anise and others - with the mistletoe. Its purpose - kissing - is obvious. The gentleman picks off a berry with each kiss, and when the berries are gone, so it the enchantment of love and fertility.

Holly as a Christmas Tradition has it's own story.

The Druids, again, believed the holly being evergreen, keeps the world beautiful. And they would wear a sprig of holly to watch the priests cut down the mistletoe which was sacred.

Holly was the sacred plant of Saturn and during the Roman Saturnalia Festival, Romans gave each other holly wreaths and used the wreaths to decorate images of Saturn. Since this Saturn festival was in December, Christians soon started using holly when they celebrated Christ's birth. They used the holly to avoid persecution since the authoities would overlook this display. This pagan meaning of holly has faded, and is now a symbol of Christmas.

Christmas comes in the dark winter months in the Northern Hemisphere. Europeans believed that ghosts and demons were howling in the winter winds. Holly, with all of its magical powers, was hung over doors and windows to keep the evil ones away. The fresh greens also freshened the air of a closed up home, and the bright green leaves help lighten the mood.

The prickly leaves and red berries have come to stand for peace and joy.

Christians have expanded the symbolism of holly to respresent the crown of thorns that Christ wore due to its prickly leaves. The red berries symbolize the shedding of blood.

Holly can be found in all 50 states of the U.S. It likes acid soil and is either male or female. This dioecious plant needs both male and female varieties to cross-pollinate. Only the female plant produces berries.

Enjoy your Christmas Traditions too. Does your family do something special each year? Let us hear your story.

Holiday Season - Ready, Set, Go!

2011-11-12T16:48:00.000-05:00

The Christmas holiday was not even in my sights until today. Knollwood Garden Center near my home kicked off the holiday season with an Open House today and tomorrow, November 12 and 13.

The natural tree decoration are quite unique. I'm talking original, folks! Quite nice.

All of the natural elements sent my creative juices into overdrive. Several of the mixed green containers had both branches, and plants that don't mind the colder temperatures.

Magnolia Leaves can make any arrangement or wreath elegant.

Pine boughs can be used for centerpieces or outdoor containers too.

If all of the decorations didn't get your juices flowing, Green County Garden Club sponsored a flower show. Entries were judged and will be one display through tomorrow. Here are some extraordinary designs in the artistic category.

Thanks to Knollwood Garden Center for this Holiday Season kick-off.

Fall Cleanup - Lawn and Garden Preparations for Winter

2011-11-08T15:37:00.001-05:00

Fall cleanup for me is directly connected to the weather. So taking advantage of the sixty degree days has left me with no excuses. So yesterday, I started the lawn cleanup.

The Little Leaf Linden still has tons of leaves to drop, but the Sycamore, American Plaintree, in the back has very large, heavy leaves. I raked all the perennial beds, pulling the leaves into the grass. I pay particular attention to the Hosta beds because over-wintering slugs will lay eggs at or near the crown of each plant. I have had damage from slugs as early as April when I neglected this part of the cleanup.

The mower mulched the dry leaves well, leaving only ground up organic matter to give the soil a long lasting source of nutrition.
I last fertilized the lawn in October with a liquid organic spray. With that feeding from my Firebelly Lawn Care Products and now the mulched leaves, the grass will survive the stress of winter, and grow thick and lush in the spring.

If your grass is still growing, continue to mow. The over winter length should be about an inch shorter than you mowed in the summer, or approximately 2".

As the rest of the trees drop their 'gift', I will again use the mower to aid in the cleanup. However, I will use the bag attachment to gather the mulched leaves and grass clipping. These I will sprinkle over the perennial beds. This organic matterial will decompost (nearly) by spring, and will enhance the soils micro organisms and create loose soil that is alive and well.

This next part of my fall cleanup may sound like I'm a lazy gardener. (Isn't that an oxymoron?) When in fact I justify leaving the garden pretty much in tack as 'that's the way Mother Nature gardens!' The winter interest
is marvelous and extends the garden another season.

The final fall cleanup chore that is literally calling me out today, is removing the plant stems and food debris from the vegetable garden. This will go into the compost pile. Leaving tomatoes or other foods on the ground over winter will encourage diseases and draw animals. With the vegetable garden cleared, I will have another spot to spread the bagged mulched leaves.

So, fall cleanup for me is almost complete. The lawn is fed, the hosta garden is clear, and the coneflowers, globe thistle, and black-eye susans will greet me throughout the dreary days to come, and I will smile.

Pine Tree Wilt

2011-10-31T14:10:00.001-04:00

Our 40+ ft Pine (Norway, or White, I'm uncertain which) took a rapid decline this summer. I first noticed that the needles had a droplet on each tip. The sticky substance dripped off the tree as though it had just rained. Plants beneath the tree were covered with a white residue, and my hair and the dog's fur were gummy.

Within two weeks it was apparent that we had lost this pine tree. Research I did indicated the Pine Tree Wilt was the cause. Seems a pinewood nematode, Bursaphelenchus xylophilus is responsible. The pinewood nematode is native to North America, is taking our trees in the central part of the United States.

http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_pinewilt/pinewilt.htm

Little, if anything, can be done to save the tree once it shows these drastic signs. The best way, I am told, is to remove the tree, and burn or shred the wood.

Upon determining to have the tree removed, my hubby and I scrambled to relocate lots of plant material. I knew the tree trimmers would not be gentle to the surrounding beds.

We moved Hosta, Japanese painted ferns, Daylilies, and three clumps of Hydrangea, Annabelle, anywhere we could find a spot. I had to water everything almost daily the rest of the summer, but I'm pretty sure everything settled in well.

Two azaleas (sp. unknown) in their new home.

Hardy begonia are going to over-winter in this bed till spring.

So, even though we lost a great tree to Pine Tree Wilt, I now have a section of the yard to redesign during the winter!

Mother Nature Has a Tantrum

2011-10-27T15:16:00.003-04:00

From Shade Garden to a Sunny Garden in one afternoon.

This Maple tree toppled during the hail storm. As is landed directly between our neighbors house and ours, little property damage incurred. However, this tree was sitting due south of our front garden. What that means is the shade that I designed our landscape around was totally bathed in nice warm, direct sunshine!

Buried under this mess I have hydrangeas, wigelias, daylilys, and liatris.

This hosta never did not die, but it never really looked good the rest of the summer

The tree stayed on the fence for about a month, and I wasn't sure what I'd find beneath this mess.

Amazingly enough, only one hydrangea had a broken branch. Everything else survived and thrived!

Salvia - still blooming the last week in October. Stella'd'Oro daylily has buds still coming on...

Hosta, 'Fragrant Bouquet' was not in deep shade any longer, and produced more leaves with great texture and a bright lime green color

Turtle Head, 'Hot Lips' and Toad Lily are enjoying the extra sun and are still putting on a show the last week in October.

The Autumn climatis really outgrew her usual boundaries, and helped herself to some extra room on the neighbor's fence.

So even though Mother Nature showed me who is boss, I have to concede she knew what her little guys needed! My 'sunny garden' is looking great and I have, once again, been reminded that I'm not the source or the center of my gardening world - just a caretaker. A job title I'm proud to claim.

SIZE DOES MATTER - New Small Garden Choices

2011-01-23T14:19:00.002-05:00

I had the opportunity of attending a Member and Volunteer meeting at the Wegerzyn Gardens in Dayton, Ohio last week. As part of the Five Rivers Metro Parks, this non-profit foundation has supported horticultural and educational programs for 35 years.
Kent Phillips was the speaker and introduced us to these new plants for 2011. He represented Studebaker Nurseries, a wholesale grower in Ohio.
Patio gardens, and entry ways are just two places to build a small garden. And putting the right plant in the right place is particularly important in a limited space. Mistakes can easily be seen if a shrub over steps its bounds or the continuous maintenance to keep a plant under control needs your attention every other weekend.
New plants come into the market each year. Hybridizers and growers are always looking for the next ‘must have’ in the garden. So I want to share with you some of new plants that will be an asset to our small gardens.
This is a compact Red Twig Dogwood, called ‘Artic Fire’. Growing to only 4’, this shrub is half the size of other Dogwoods and has twice the branches. “Baileyii” has blooms in late spring, and, of course, the showy stems all winter.
As the name suggests, this Forsythia, ‘Show Off’, will make a huge impact. At full height of 3’ – 4’, “Show Off’ will work as a short hedge, or as a specimen in your landscape. “Mindia” is one variety and needs full sun . The dark green foliage allows this small shrub at least three seasons of interest.
‘Lil Kim’ Rose of Sharon is easy to grow, and is hardy in Zones 5-8. What makes this Hibiscus shrub stand out is the blossoms last three days and her blossoms are 3” across. Top height of 3’-4’, ‘Lil Kim’ can be grown in mixed containers or perennial beds. This is a Proven Winner variety. Give this one full sun for maximum show.
This photo of Leptodermis oblonga was taken at the Missouri Botanical Gardens. No common name has been given to this shrub, but that does not take away from the nice show of lavender blooms it gives from summer till frost. This plant can take full sun to part shade, is drought tolerant (once established), and no known insects or diseases plague it. It grows to a 2’- 4’ mound and is hardy to Zones 5-7 .
The” KnockOut” Rose family has gotten larger. The ‘Home Run’, an offspring, is compact and tops out at about 2’. This is a true red with bright yellow stamens. This variety is fragrant, and butterflies and hummingbirds will come to it. I can see this in a container. Sweet!
Thanks for visiting, and if your garden center does not have these varieties, have them contact kphillips@studebakernurseries.com.
As you know, my mantra is ‘Envision, Enrich, and Enjoy’, your garden. Check out plant sizes before you plant, and by all means, sit back and enjoy!!

A Trend in Gardening for 2011

2011-01-05T11:52:00.006-05:00

This past year has been a tough one. The economy is down and we are having to spend more on food, clothing, fuel. One of the obvious victims of this belt-tightening has been the nursery and garden center industry. Gardeners are resisting the purchase of annuals and opting for perennials. The smaller containers are being selected rather than the gallon pots, and this may indeed be the trend for several years to come.
As households adjust their spending, we, as passionate gardeners, are looking for ways to get our gardening ‘fix’ and not break the bank. I had such a ‘fix’ last evening as I attended a garden club meeting of the Here and There Garden Club.

Bob Iiames is a local gardener and speaker. His topic was “Perennials That Pop”.

Bob’s passion was evident as he showed us his garden. The focus of dwarf and unusual conifers was delightful. The four seasons of color showed how his investment in plant material paid big dividends.

How does this fit into the ‘trends’ we were talking about? Glad you asked!

Consumers like me are seeking out ways to educate ourselves. We want to make good choices. GREEN ideas are out there, we just have to look for them. Gardening books, magazines, TV and radio programming, and classes are being offered. Local parks and Garden Clubs are seeking out good, knowledgeable folks to help us. Web sights and Podcasts are becoming more and more available – and easy – to access. We do not want to waste our Money, our Water, Our Time, and we want to leave our environment better than when we started.

So my #1 Trend for 2011 would be ……(wait for it!)……. Education.

Plant groups of all kinds are a source of information. Whether you like Hosta, Daylilies, Conifers, Iris, Native Plants, or any number of other plant types, you can find a regional and national organization to suit your interests. Local County Extension offices can offer Master Gardening Courses as well. Gathering with other gardeners is always a source of good information, and good company.

What groups do you attend? I'm sure I have left out some. Thanks for visiting today.

Gardening - It's Good for the Soul

2010-11-17T12:01:00.001-05:00

I heard the 'one can bury alot of troubles digging in the dirt'. Maybe that is why I have such a large garden!
Anyway, I do know that my visits to the garden are therapeutic - both physically and mentally. All I need to do is look around at the colors, feel the textures of the leaves, or smell the fragrances around me to put my mind in a different place. The health benefits we experience in the garden may be subconscious, but I believe the benefits are real.

Studies have show that even the 'view' of green spaces has a restorative effect on people. Patients with a view of trees from their hospital room recovered faster and required less pain medications than those who viewed a brick wall.
I know which view I'd want.

Likewise, prisons, veterans centers, and senior communities have found that clients displayed more commitment to programs, and had a higher sense of purpose.

The sense of accomplishment that comes from gardening is enormous. That seed we started in May, needed our attention. Water, weeding, and harvesting can increase our self-esteem. Expressing creativity is very rewarding, when sharing the project with family and friends.

I am always amazed at the sense of well-being I have after a few moments in the garden. I love to stroll my yard, coffee cup in hand, and enjoy the quiet. Even the commute into town is bearable.

Stress has been associated to many health problems. Insomnia and high blood pressure are just two.Our busy schedules, families, and work can all contribute to an overwhelming sense of 'GET ME OUTTA HERE!'.

That is the time I head outdoors. Lunchtime breaks may make for a more productive afternoon. Get outside and look up, take a deep breath, and

relax.

Sit and meditate. Many mysteries of life have been discovered by daydreaming. We can get insights into the future, gain some wisdom and enhance our creativity.

One other aspect of gardening that greatly calms the soul, is fragrance. Aroma therapy is becoming quite accepted to relax and calm us. I don't know a anything that brings more pleasure to my senses than rubbing a lavender stem, or picking a few leaves from lemon balm.

I've been part of Garden Clubs for years, and as those years pass, more and more of my friends are reducing the amount of gardening they do. The mind is willing but the body is having difficulty keeping up.

But the friends we 'grow' are ever blooming. We still have fun gathering together and talking about gardening. Lectures, and flower shows are among the many outlets gardeners have to enjoy the garden without the manual labor. Many of us are still sharing what we learned.

Plant seeds of wonder in some students. We can share the soothing, tranquil, peaceful, spiritual and healing benefits of gardening to a whole new generation.

Spring Bulbs – Still time to Plant

2010-10-31T13:40:00.003-04:00

When I was working at local garden centers in the early spring, I had so many folks come in and want the tulips, or daffodils that were putting on their seasonal show. The best I could do was show them the few we had potted up in containers. So I want to remind you that this is the time to plant spring bulbs. The few hours of planting now in the chill of fall will pay off big time in March and April.
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The basics of planting spring bulbs are 1) Pick firm bulbs. These are available are garden centers and on line from growers.
2) Plant after the ground is cool, after frost, but before ground freezes. Getting bulbs in the ground 6 weeks before ground freezes enables the roots to develop. In areas where you do not have freezing winter soils, you can get the bulbs ready to plant by chilling them 6 – 8 weeks in the refrigerator; then plant.
3) Depth of planting depends on the bulb size. A general rule is to plant to a depth of 3x the diameter of the bulb. Tulips and Daffs – 7-8” deep; crocus, 4-5” deep.
Soil in the planting area needs to drain well. Adding compost or peat moss will aid in this. Any bulb needs a sunny area but as the deciduous trees are leafless in the early spring, sun is usually not an issue.
4) Plant pointed end up. Roots will extend from the flat end but if you, by chance get this part wrong, these determined guys will not disappoint us and will find ‘up’. I usually add bone meal to the planting hole. The phosphorous this adds will grow stronger roots for many years of blooms.

5) Plant bulbs in groups. A recurring theme in landscape to to plant in odd numbers – 3-5-7 – This seems to be most pleasing to the eye.

6) Consider bloom times of the bulbs you pick. Some will bloom early, some mid-season, and others will bloom late season. The bulb descriptions will tell you the approximate bloom time. By planting in sequence, you can extend the spring color for a couple of months, not just a few weeks.
This is my grandson, Luke. His garden pick many years ago was crocus and we still look forward to seeing them each spring.

Tulips have a tradition over 400 years of being ‘Spring’. Originating in the Netherland, tulips have dozens of colors, and varieties from ‘Parrots’ which are fringed, to simple cups. Squirrels will dig up these bulbs and deer find tulips tasty.
Daffodils, are Jonquils, are Narcissus. From yellows, to pinks, these bulbs will naturalize and give you more and more blooms each year. Deer and rodent resistant, Daffodils are quite reliable and showy. Some are ‘double’ petals, some are dual colors. I know you will have a hard time deciding which to include in your garden.
These Hyacinth are the most fragrant of the spring bulbs The blooms last a couple of weeks and are high on 6-12” spikes. Water in the fall if rain is scarce. The show appears in March and April.
These bulbs will usher in the spring with all of the promises of hope and growth we look forward to all winter.
Top right picture is ‘Glory in the Snow’, or Chionodoxa. The Miscari – or Grape Hyacinth is a favorite of mine. Small, 6-7” high and come in cobalt blue, ice blue, and white. The small photo on the left is Scilla. Don’t overlook these minor bulbs.
The planting time for spring bulbs is running short. In my Zone 5B garden, we can plant until the ground freezes, usually in December. So count back your 6 – 8 weeks, and mid-November is about the latest we can plant. So head out to the garden center and ‘think spring’.

What is your favorite spring bulb? Thanks for stopping by today.

Make Lasagna Garden with Fall Cleanup

2010-10-29T12:01:00.001-04:00

The leaves are really falling at my home here in SW Ohio. And with this great source of organic material, I set out to put it to use.

So I've put on my thinking cap, and decided to ease my chores which are seemingly endless.

Usually, I mulch the leaves back into the yard, adding much needed organic nutrients. I've also bagged a few loads of grass and leaves to add to the compost pile. Over winter this will turn into black gold for my spring garden.

Another option for an organic gardener is to make a lasagna garden.

Planning ahead for your spring garden is sooo easy. Find a spot along a fence, or an area out in the sunshine for a vegetable or cutting garden. Raid a local dumpster for cardboard, or gather old newspapers at least 7 - 10 sheets thick and lay out your garden.

Here is where the 'lasagna' comes into play. Layers, and layers. Add the leaves, and grass clippings on top of watered down cardboard. Overlap the paper layer to block out any weeds. That's right! No removal of sod, weeds or even rocks is necessary. Add peat moss several inches deep, and add layers of compost too.

Anything you would put into your compost pile is fair game. Pruned branches, kitchen scraps, (no bones or meat), aged manures, coffee grounds, shredded junk mail, wood chips, or bonfire ash.

The bedding material from the kids rabbits is also great. Add bone meal and wood ash for a good source of Phosphorous and Potassium - the P-K, of the N-P-K needed by your plants.

Just think how nature gardens - the forest floor is a layer upon layer, season after season of debris which turns into the dark, rich loam we covet in our own gardens.

This lasagna bed has a border of straw bales so this gardening is approximately 14" deep. As the organic material degrades, the microorganisms get to work to provide nutrient rich planting material. This also makes the need for fertilizers less next season. Avoid using treated lumber as a border. The chemicals can affect your food crops.

The no-till garden bed that is loose, crumbly, and fluffy is a great advantage. Over wintering your lasagna garden is an ideal way to plan for spring. We have all the ingredient for a very productive crop next year.
The moisture of the fall rains, and the freezing and thawing of the winter weather aid in the breakdown of the organic materials.

The lasagna garden has many advantages. The no-digging, fewer weeds, holds water well, and drains well. Using less fertilizer lowers you costs and the organic material is free for the taking.

AAHHH....

Envision your space. Enrich your space. Enjoy your space.

Thanks for visiting today. What will you do with your spare time?

Gardening in Small Spaces

2010-10-22T11:07:00.001-04:00

No matter what size your space is, you can have an interesting, colorful, and productive garden. My friend, Luanne has created this whimsical garden on her second floor apartment deck. The space is approximately 5' x 8' and is a lovely array of plant material.

Houseplants that require low light are ideal for this small space. And a woodland setting is achieved by adding hills and dales to the landscape.

To keep the neighbors below from having soil rain down on them, Luanne placed a waterproof sheet down. On this, a couple of bags of potting soil were spread out.

Several Hosta are quite happy in this arena. Low light and 6"-8" of soil keep these guys showy. This Hosta is not a dwarf or miniature, either. I believe this is H. Guacamole paired with H. Holy Mole. The potting soil has been dressed up with a layer of decorative moss, adding to the charm of the space.

Containers are used in this project. The watering needs of the variety of plants is easier to control and the containers add their own color and texture.

This lovely deck is more than a stage for the plants. The limited space and proximity to the soil have not caused Luanne to forfeit her need to garden. With the garden bench in place, Luanne and her guests can sit and enjoy the garden two stories up.

Thanks for visiting today. What small space have you created into a garden?

Adam and April’s Project

2010-10-11T12:25:00.002-04:00

Adam and April have a lovely home. But the overgrown shrubs and low limbs of large trees in the front yard made it difficult to see. Soon after they moved in, Adam set out to limb up the pine trees in front, and remove several other trees that were damaged.

Adam and April asked for my help in getting a ‘plan’ together. The design process was on hold until we determined what they wanted their yard to reflect. Did they want a formal garden, an English garden, a high maintenance garden, or something in between. We also talked about the time frame in which they expected to have this project finished.
This timing issue also is important because a budget needs to be set up. Lets face it, if you want a lot done next month, you may have to hire some help. If this plan stretches over 3 – 5 years, then you may be able to do most of the work yourself.
So Adam and April decided they wanted a casual, colorful garden that was low maintenance. No maintenance gardens for the homeowner usually requires a gardener, since there is no such thing as a ‘no maintenance garden’.

Adam and April removed the taxis from the front corner and added a compost soil mix to the planting bed. April also set out to remove some of the border stones that were three high, and spread the extra soil around the roots of the tree.

During the deconstruction process, I had April and Adam over to see some plant material that they might want. They chose some hostas, and other shade plants that we could divide when they were ready to plant.
Extra watering was needed before we divided some of the plants, as we have had no measureable rain here for months. Finally, April and I set out to dig!

An ornamental Zebra Grass is taking center stage in the front corner. Surrounding the grass, we put a variegated liriope. The green and yellow of both the grass and the liriope really played off of each other in the sun. The bright purple bloom of the liriope accented the planting nicely.
Next we tackled the base of the pine tree. Here we planted five green and cream hosta, H. Abba-Dabba-Doo.
We took divisions of 6 – 8 daylilies. Unfortunately, I could not recall the colors, or the names. We will try to name them in the spring. Consequently, we divided out about 40 or so fans, and randomly placed them under the tree.

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I plan to follow Adam and April’s project over the next season or two. Can’t wait for spring when the new beds will come to life. Follow the basic steps to plan your project and thanks for visiting today.

Just a Stroll

2010-10-06T12:20:00.000-04:00

Autumn Climatis

Turtle Head 'Hot Lips'

Source of my shady yard - honeysuckle on neighbors fence line

Sunlight through the perennial begonia

Climbing hydrangea

More hardy begonia - I love the red underside of these leaves

White fall anenomes

Necotiana

Swiss Chard

Love Lies Bleeding

Busy Bee

Dark Purple/Black peppers

Thanks for coming along with me today. Claudia

Organic Lawn Care for Fall

2010-10-04T14:39:00.001-04:00

The Five Rivers MetroParks in the Dayton area offered a full day of talks at the Cox Arboretum Sunday on Gardening in Ohio. I was honored to present two programs on Organic Fertilizers and Organic Lawn Care. With the summer we have had here in SW Ohio, we had a lot to talk about. With the extreme heat of over 20 days over 90 degrees F, and no measureable rain for eight weeks or more, our lawns really need some tender loving care. So let me summarize the steps needed to help our lawns rebound from the summer. 1. If you cannot do anything else, apply compost to your lawn and rake it in to a depth of 1/2 “. The organic material will build your soil, and permit the roots of your turf to get nutrients, air and water.

2. Over seeding your lawn will help thicken it, and fill in bare spots. Rake loose the dead grass to allow the seed to make contact with the soil. Again, spread compost lightly over the seed and keep watered. Grass seed providers are marketing seed for any variety of conditions you may have in your yard. From drought tolerant, to insect and disease resistant, seed for sunny areas, seed for shady areas. Check local suppliers to get a seed that matches your needs

3. Apply an organic fertilizer. These come in granular and liquid form. The slow release nutrients will release food over a longer period of time compared to chemical applications. Chemical fertilizers can give a fast green up, but leave the root zone with no long term benefits. Chemicals can dangerously impact the microorganism colonies in the soil, repel earthworms and harm the soil structure.

4. Mow high. Most turf experts are recommending a 3 1/2” to 4” tall cutting. Taller grass blades have deeper root systems. Deeper roots can take up more moisture helping grass to resist drought. Taller grass will also shade the soil. This shading will protect the soil surface from drying out. Weed seeds will also be shaded, and reduce weed seed germination.

5. Water deeply. Reduce water usage by eliminating frequent sprinkling, and opt for longer sessions of watering. Check you soil moisture after watering by inserting a trowel into grass. Moisture should reach about 4” deep.

6. Mulch grass clippings and leaves. The is great organic matter and your lawn will only benefit from the added nutrition. Grass clipping do not create thatch. Clippings actually increase worm activity and worms help aerate the soil, opening up the root zone to nutrients, air, and water.

7. Stay on top of weeds. Do not let weeds to go to seed. The battle is half over by eliminating the source of future generations of weeds. Remove weeds from the lawn. If weeds are few, dig them out. I also recommend an organic herbicide such as 20% Horticultural Vinegar or a product like ‘BurnOut’. This clove based product will kill any vegetation it lands on, so take care to target only weeds.

By mowing high, watering deeply, and adding organic material to your lawn, you can have a great looking, healthy lawn.

Check out my web page for an easy, effective, and economical program to enrich your space. Envision a lush thick lawn for next season, and enjoy.

http://claudiafugate.firebellylawncare.com

How did your lawn hold up this summer? Let us know what worked for you and express any concerns you may have. Claudia

Building the Garden of your Dreams

2010-09-21T11:09:00.000-04:00

The 2010 summer in my zone 5b garden has been challenging. The extreme heat has many of the late summer perennials fading earlier than normal. The coneflowers are brown and the daisys are just sticks.

The ferns hate the heat. I'm hoping that with the extra watering I've given them, they will emerge nicely in the spring.

Even the perennial sunflowers which are drought tolerant have given up the fight this year.

The lawn has not been a priority for me to keep green. My water bill will be bad enough just concentrating on shrubs, and perennials. (The rain barrels have been empty for weeks!)

We fertilized the gardens and turf Sunday with an organic fertilizer ( 4-3-5) and some left over corn gluten (9-0-0).We were anticipating some rain which lasted 10 minutes and cooler temperatures. This is late September, after all! Forecast for this next week is 12 - 15 degrees above normal - near 90 degrees. Good thing that organic fertilizers will not burn the turf as chemical fertilizers can.

On the positive side of gardening this season is the second blush of the lavender. Since lavender thrive in heat and low moisture, I shouldn't have been surprised.

The pink fall anemones which bloomed a few weeks ago have finished their show, but the white anemones, which are over 5 feet tall, look great.

Sedum Autumn Joy is full and gorgeous.

Several roses are reblooming, including this "Queen Elizabeth".

These 'FejetaBells' are in heaven.

This aster is one of five varieties we have in the garden. I prefer the reliablity of asters for fall color over mums which do not over winter well for me.

So, building the garden of you dreams is not a science. Nature has a way of interjecting her will on us. We may research plants, draw diagrams of flower beds, and arrange plant varieties so we can have color all season, BUT, (lesson learned) brown is a color. Oh well, there is always next year.

Relax and enjoy whatever happens. Remember we are not the center or the source. Just the caretakers.

How did your garden fair this year? Let us know. And thanks for stopping by. Claudia

2fer Perennials - Easy Care AND Late Summer Color

2010-08-20T14:11:00.000-04:00

'Knockout Rose' double red

August 'dog-days' don't have to be. I usually equate August with back to school, Labor Day, and the end of summer. But as I was roaming my garden with my camera, I realized that a lot is going on and I didn't have too much to do with it. These easy care perennials are putting on quite a show!

Buddlea - butterfly Bush

Veronica

I took clippers to these about six weeks ago and cut off about half of the plant. Nice new flush of blue.

Hardy Begonia - blooms in my garden around Labor Day. I really like the red underside all season long. I've divided it many times to various spots in my garden. Some are in full shade, some in dry, part shade. They all do quite well.

"Moonbeam' - Coreopsis

Light and airy, these little guys just do their own thing - no problem.

Echinacea purpurea, Zone 3-8

Purple coneflower, whether 'Double Decker', White, or Magnus, are the late summer work horses for color. Maintenance is minimal. I let the seed heads remain for the Yellow Finches that balance on them and chow down.

Pink Japanese Anenome glow. We have a stand of white Grape Leaf Anenomes too. They haven't bloomed yet but I've had them in bloom through Holloween. Sweet!

Chelone - Hot Lips

I pair this with Sedum, Autumn Joy. The burgendy and pinks look great together!

Ornamental Grasses come in lots of heights, colors, and textures. They offer movement, shadows, and sounds.

Plumbago - true blue ground cover

Ajuga still looks fresh.

Pumonaria- Lungwort, 'Majesty'

The foliage on these Pulmonaria give the late summer garden a refreshing texture. Even thought these bloomed in April, this perennial has more than justified its place in my garden.

The summer has really been hot, and I don't do 'heat' that well. So even though I've been an absentee landlord for the last few weeks, my garden is looking great. I cut back the veronica, catmint, spiderwort, yarrow, and cranesbill (hardy geranium) in mid July, and all have rewarded me with fresh foliage and blossoms.

The forecast is for some rain and cooler tempertures starting Saturday. Maybe August isn't so bad after all.

Thanks for visiting with me today.