Gardening Turramurra

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Wed, 31 Aug 2016 08:23:00 +0000

After winter tilling Garden beds

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sun, 14 Sep 2014 19:57:00 +0000

Tilling and Soil Health

Tilling and working soil increases porosity for root growth and moisture penetration and drainage. It also allows the gardener to work in important soil amendments such as compost, leaf litter or other organic aids. Turning the soil allows oxygen to penetrate the earth for root uptake and to aid aerobic bacteria in their composting work.

The process also helps to smooth garden bed and allows a chance to remove rocks, invasive roots and other debris, making way for tender seedlings. However, tilling wet soil can also compact the medium, making large chunks that dry into virtual cinder blocks. A compacted soilblocks moisture absorption and prevents root penetration. The optimum water content for tillage varies by soil, but ideally it should be at least mostly dry for the best results.

Tilling wet soil squeezes together soil particles and inhibits seed germination and young root growth. At a minimum you will have to till again when the soil dries out. In the worst case scenario, you will have to add organic matter, gritty materials or even plant a winter cover crop to help break up the pressurized particles.Wet soil tilling with farm or garden equipment further compresses the soil where tires and feet weigh it down. These tracks harden as they dry and form effective barriers to moisture dispersal. Tilling and soil health go hand in hand when they are accomplished on dry soils. This beneficial mechanical process brings in air, water and nutrients to needy roots.

Optimum Water Content for Tillage

For a hard core gardener, waiting until the season starts is similar to the struggle a small child has waiting until Christmas morning. The desire to get going is normal, but you should resist overworking soggy spring soils.

Well amended beds with plenty of organic matter resist compaction when wet much better than clay or loam. The soil should be dry to the touch in the top 6 to 8 inches, with no held moisture in the lower zones of the bed.

The effect of tillage on wet soil is simply not worth the impulse to till soggy garden beds. Better to spend some time perusing those seed catalogs and planning the landscape while you wait for a cessation in rain and some sunny rays to dry out the beds.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Good bugs and bad bugs. Why we have so many bad bugs in Sydney

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sun, 14 Sep 2014 19:30:00 +0000

An important strategy for organic gardeners is to enhance and maximise the natural biological controls already present in a garden ecosystem. Does your garden provide a nectar source for beneficial, pest-controlling insects? Planting particular flowers and herbs known as insectary plants has been proven to improve the natural balance and reduce pest outbreaks.

The Zeal group provide a Good Bug Mix containing colourful re-seeding annual and perennial flowers including red clover, alyssum, cosmos, marigolds, Queen Anne's Lace, buckwheat, lucerne, dill, caraway, coriander and phacelia (when available), gypsophila. It blooms much of the year, providing nectar, pollen and habitat for wild and introduced beneficial insects, such as predatory mites and tiny micro wasps, ladybirds, lacewings, hoverflies, tachnid flies and predatory beetles. These beneficial insects or 'good bugs' are generally small with correspondingly small mouthparts, so they are only able to feed on particular flowers with suitable attributes. By providing a plentiful food supply the 'good bugs' live longer and reproduce more. As well as a good ground cover to keep your weeds down in garden beds.

Sydney has become " tones of Green centric", which is only good forbad bugs. So for the love of God Sydney wake up to color and get good bug friendly in your gardens.

Growing flowers will not only add colour and beauty to your garden, but will have other, more subtle benefits. Flowers are always beautiful but keep in mind that so far, there are few, if any, organic cut flowers being offered and you may unknowingly be introducing chemical contamination to your home. So, always consider growing your own!

Flowers also provide a food source for honey bees. You can find information on growing bee forage here.

Calendula 'Maayan Orange' Organically certified

Calendula officinalis

syn. English Marigold

Calendula 'Maayan Orange'; is a hardy annual flower, to 60 cm high, with bright, glowing blooms of a dark orange hue. It flowers for a long period during winter and spring, particularly if regularly deadheaded. Calendula will tolerate any soil in full sun, although it prefers a moderate to rich loam. It has a long history of use for its medicinal properties and as a yellow dye. The flower petals can be used as a substitute for saffron and may be added to salads. The flowers are also used in skin and cosmetic preparations. Sow late summer and autumn, it takes about 8-10 weeks from sowing to flowering. Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas.

Cornflower 'Blue'

Centaurea cyanus

A hardy, annual flower to 1m high with pretty blue flowers on grey-green foliage. A useful flower for attracting bees and butterflies and as a long-lasting cut flower. A native of Europe, it prefers a well-drained soil in a sunny position, with protection from wind. Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas. Sow seed from March to September.

Cosmos bipinnatus var. cosmicos

'Sea Shells' is a beautiful cosmos, the rolled, tubular petals are unusual and are thought to look like sea shells. It blooms in shades of pink, red and white; a good background plant that grows over a metre tall. Feathery foliage fills plants in from top to bottom creating a bushy look. A native of Mexico, it prefers a sunny position with protection from wind. Also useful in the orchard as a bee forage and nectar source for beneficial insects. Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas.

Larkspur 'Galilee Blue' Organically certified

Consolida ajacis

Larkspurs are tall annuals (1 - 1.5 m) with finely cut feathery foliage and double blue flowers Tall flower spikes are produced in early summer that are excellent for cut flowers or the back of garden beds. Sow seed in autumn, it requires a cool temperature (13°C) to germinate well.

Nigella damascena

'Miss Jekyll Indigo Blue' is a frost-hardy, annual cottage garden plant with rich, indigo blue, starry flowers nestled in fine foliage. It can be used as cut flower and lasts 7 to 10 days in a vase; the seed pods can also be dried. It is upright and fast growing, 40 to 60 cm high with a spread of 20 cm. It is attractive to bees and beneficial insects. The seeds were once stored with clothing and believed to repel insects. It prefers to grow in full sun in a rich, well-drained soil. If seed pods are left to develop, then self-sowing is common the next year. Sow late summer to early autumn in temperate and subtropical areas.

Marigold 'Fiesta' HTagetes patula

'Fiesta' is a French marigold with dark tawny red and lemon bi-coloured flowers that bloom for a long period and will brighten any garden. Use as an edging along garden beds or in pots. Marigold petals are edible and can be used to decorate salads.

Marigolds have long been believed to be a helpful addition to the organic garden. It is now known they have a role in suppressing soil diseases such as Verticillium Wilt and nematodes. This can be achieved by interplanting susceptible crops such as tomatoes with marigolds. It is also useful in nematode control if the plants are chopped up at the end of summer and dug through the soil. Here is information on nematodes. Sow spring and summer, autumn in frost-free areas only. Suitable for temperate, subtropical and tropical areas.

Marigold 'Sparky' H x

Tagetes patula

'Sparky' is a French marigold mix of tawny red and gold bi-coloured flowers that bloom for a long period and will brighten any garden. Use as an edging along garden beds or in pots. Marigold petals are edible and can be used to decorate salads.

Nasturtium 'Jewel Mixed' Organically certified

Tropaeolum majus

'Jewel Mix' has sweetly scented flowers in yellow, orange, salmon and deep red that bloom for a long period. Leaves are lily-pad shaped and bright green. A wide range of uses include: ornamental in hanging baskets; as a hardy groundcover under fruit trees; as a salad leaf with a tangy, watercress-like flavour; as an edible flower or garnish; as an edible seed used as a ‘caper’ substitute. Sow spring and summer, autumn in frost-free areas only. Suitable for temperate, subtropical and tropical areas.

Nasturtium 'Empress of India'

Tropaeolum majus

A Victorian heirloom flower with vibrant, long spurred, crimson-scarlet flowers that stand out against the dark blue-green foliage. Plants are compact and suitable for containers and hanging baskets. A wide range of other uses includes: as a hardy groundcover under fruit trees; as a salad leaf with a tangy, watercress-like flavour; as an edible flower or garnish; as an edible seed used as a ‘caper’ substitute. Sow spring and summer, autumn in frost-free areas only. Suitable for temperate, subtropical and tropical areas.

Phacelia

Phacelia tanacetifolia

syn. Californian Bluebell

Phacelia is hardy and easy-to-grow with pretty, fragrant, lavender-blue flowers with delicate, fern-like foliage. It has a wide range of uses in the organic garden; as an insectary plant it will improve biological control by attracting hoverflies that control aphids; it smothers weeds and the extensive root system will improve the soil structure; the flowers are excellent bee forage. It is also a good cut flower and has a long vase-life with strong stems. Sow spring in temperate areas; autumn and early winter in subtropical areas. It is unlikely to germinate well in tropical areas.

Queen Anne's Lace Organically certified

Ammi visnaga

Annual cottage garden plant to 1.5m, lacy white flower head; attracts assassin bugs, lacewings, predatory wasps; self-sows; great for orchards and garden edges. Sow spring, autumn (frost tolerant). Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas.

Growing Sunflowers

Helianthus annuus

Sunflowers add joy to a summer garden, attract colourful king parrots and the flower petals are edible and brighten up a salad. The tall plants provide support for climbing beans and are useful as a summer windbreak. Sunflowers are a must for a child's garden, the sheer size of the plants and the way the flowers follow the sun are intriguing for kids. It is a warm season, frost tender annual, usually 2 - 3 m tall. The seeds germinate best at 20 - 25°C; sow spring and summer most areas. The seeds take 10 - 14 days to germinate but are vulnerable to being eaten by birds and rodents. Protect the seed with an upturned pot until the seed has germinated. Sow seed 6 - 10 mm deep in full sun, direct into a garden bed is best. Soil required is fertile, well-drained; with a preferred pH 5.5 - 7.5. Plants do better with consistent moisture. Space rows 60 cm apart with 50 - 60 cm between plants. Protect seedlings from snails, slugs and grasshoppers.

Sunflower 'Evening Sun'

'Evening Sun' has beautiful, large flowers in autumn shades of orange, russet-bronze, mahogany-red and gold with dark centres. The multiple heads provide an extended bloom period. A great variety for cutting; the plants grow 1.8 - 2.4m tall.

Sunflower 'Cosmic Flame'

'Cosmic Flame' is a single head, fast maturing sunflower that makes a great addition to the summer flower garden. The flower head is very striking with rich, deep golden yellow petals with a dark, contrasting centre. The plants grow 1.2m tall. This is an F1 hybrid so is not suitable for seed saving.

Sunflower 'Sunbird' Organically certified

'Sunbird' produces a large, grey-striped sunflower seed which is excellent as human food or poultry forage. Sunbird is both drought tolerant and disease resistant. The plants grow 2 - 2.5m tall.

Sweet Alice

Lobularia maritima

syn. Alyssum

Sweet smelling clusters of tiny flowers, ideal as a groundcover, trials in the USA prove this to be an extremely useful insectary plant; no organic garden should be without it! It is frost and drought tolerant. Sow spring, autumn in warmer areas. Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas.

Sweet Alice Benthamii

Lobularia maritima ssp benthamii

‘Subspecies benthamii’ is a hardier, more vigorous form of alyssum used mainly for its ability to attract beneficial insects to cropping systems. It is sown in the inter-row spaces of vineyards and orchards and as a row between crops in vegetable market gardens. It is easy to grow, drought tolerant, and it will self-sow readily and flower over a long period. Use 1g of seed per 2m2 (2500 seeds/g).

Growing Sweetpeas

Lathyrus odoratus

Sweetpeas are a beautiful annual fragrant flower for the cooler times of the year. It is suitable for temperate and subtropical areas. There are both dwarf and climbing types. Usually the climbing types are less prone to mildew and flower over a longer period. Generally if it is the right time to plant peas then same goes for sweetpeas. Sow seed in early temperate and subtropical areas. The best germination soil temperature is between 4.5 - 21°C. Germination will take 6 - 14 days. Seed should be soaked in water 12 - 24 hours before sowing. Sow direct into garden bed to 2 - 2.5 cm deep. Space seeds 8 cm apart along the row. Lightly mulch seed rows to prevent crusting. Choose a position in full sun, sheltered from wind. Soil should be rich, fertile, well drained, with a pH of 6.5 - 7. Lime if necessary several weeks before sowing. Improve the soil before planting by adding compost. Once in flower remove spent flowers and young pods to prolong flowering. Pick early in the morning as a delightful cut flower.

Sweetpea 'Old Spice' Organically certified

An intensely fragrant heirloom variety, dating back to 1699 from England via Sicily. The flowers are smaller than modern strains but make up for it with a wonderful smell and excellent heat resistance. They bloom with a predominantly purple and crimson bicolour but may include other shades of white, pink, crimson, blue, lavender and cream. It is a climbing variety to 1.5m so a trellis is

Sweetpea 'Mammoth Choice' Organically certified

'Mammoth Choice' is an early-flowering, highly productive, climbing sweetpea. Large, fragrant blooms in shades of lavender, blue, rose pink, salmon pink, white and burgundy are borne on strong stems. A beautiful addition to any flower garden and wonderful as a cut flower. It withstands heat and drought unusually well. It is a climbing variety 1.5 to 1.8m so a trellis is required.

Viola 'Sorbet'

Viola cornuta

Viola 'Sorbet' is an annual, low growing flower to 20 - 22 cm high; it is an early, profuse bloomer with 3.5 cm flowers in shades of blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, lemon and lavender. Violas are a delightful cool season flower for edging or containers. It is suitable for temperate and subtropical areas. Sow late autumn to early spring. Our top pick as an edible flower; decorative, tasty and nutritious. Flowers are high in vitamin C, leaves in vitamin A. Use the flowers and young leaves in salads. Pick flowers as soon as they are fully open to use in the kitchen. The best germination soil temperature is between 17 - 20°C. Germination will take 4 - 7 days. Sow seed 3 mm deep in seedling trays for later transplanting. Transplant 15 - 20 cm apart. It is frost resistant but drought tender. Dead-head regularly to prolong flowering. Days to flowering: 60 - 70. This is an F1 hybrid so is not suitable for seed saving.

Zinnia 'Red Beauty' Organically certified

Zinnia elegans

Zinnias are hardy, summer flowering annuals from America. ‘Red Beauty’ has very large, 11 cm across, brilliant, dark red, dahlia-like blooms on strong stems 50 - 60 cm long. It is an excellent cut flower. Flowers are long lasting both in the garden and vase. Disease resistant plants.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Effective Composting

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Mon, 10 Feb 2014 21:14:00 +0000

The Zeal Group

What is composting?
Composting is nature’s own recycling program. In time, organisms will break down the ingredients listed below into rich, dark crumbly compost - nature’s own nutrient-rich fertiliser.

How does composting work and how long does it take?

Natural composting, or decomposition, occurs all the time in nature. Home composting generally takes two months or more. The more you turn and mix the contents - adding air in the process - the more rapid the composting action will be.

The right conditions include

the right ratio of nitrogen to carbon - equal amounts of ‘greens’ (kitchen scraps) for nitrogen and ‘browns’ (fallen leaves and woody material) for carbon

the right amount of water (feels like a damp sponge)

good drainage (to remove excess moisture)

enough oxygen (turned often)

What can you compost at home?

Vegetable and fruit scraps

Fallen leaves

Grass clippings

Finely chipped branches

Used vegetable cooking oil

Tea leaves, tea bags

Coffee grounds

Vacuum cleaner dust

Egg shells

Sheets of newspaper

Paper bags

Shredded paper

What can’t you compost?

Metal, plastic, glass

Meat and dairy products (attract rodents)

Large branches

Bones

Plant bulbs (need specialised treatment)

Droppings of meat-eating animals (e.g. dogs)

Grubs in your compost?

Sometimes in compost bins there are many segmented brown grubs. These are the larvae of the beneficial Soldier Fly. They are not pests, nor will they cause health problems.

Mulches

Mulches can prevent up to 73% evaporation loss and they are one of the cheapest and easiest ways to make the most of water in the garden.

The best mulch is a well-rotted compost which will also improve the soil structure and stimulate the biological life of the soil. Place the mulch away from the trunk to prevent collar rot.

Do not apply mulch more than 75-100 mm in thickness or water may not easily penetrate into the soil.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Tibouchinas

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Thu, 10 Oct 2013 03:47:00 +0000

Tibouchinas in bloom are hard to Now, thanks to the expertise, patience and
miss, with their vivid purple flowersmaking a truly spectacular floraldisplay. However, these largeshrubs or small trees aren’t grown
just for their flowers. They are renowned forbeing a tough, easy-care plant with ornamentalleaves and few pest or disease problems.
Tibouchinas hail from the subtropicalsouth-east of Brazil. Some older gardenerswill know them by their old botanical name,Lasiandra, or even as glory bush. The mostcommon species is Tibouchina granulosa, asmall evergreen tree that grows to 10m andis often planted as a street tree. Like mosttibouchinas, it flowers from late summer toearly winter, although in warmer areas thiscan extend to spring. There are also lesscommon species, such as T. mutabilis, whichflower in spring and early summer.
Although some lesser-known tibouchinasare pink and white, most of the varietiestraditionally available to gardeners have hadpurple flowers. This is because they were themost common varieties and, as it is so difficultto propagate tibouchinas by seed, they wereonly propagated by cuttings. Hence, the colourhas remained essentially the same.
Old favourites
There have been a few cultivars developedin the past, which have become firm gardenfavourites. T. lepidota ‘Alstonville’ is one ofthe most loved, growing to about 4m tall andbearing striking iridescent purple flowers.Smaller-growing cultivars, such as ‘Jules’and ‘Jazzie’, grow to no more than 1m tall.
perseverance of innovative Australian plantbreeder Terry Keogh, there are new varietiesavailable in different colours and heights, andwith cold tolerance and extended flowering.This is great news for gardeners everywhere.
Fabulous new varieties
Terry Keogh has worked in the horticulturalindustry for decades. Starting out in a Brisbaneretail nursery, he became frustrated by peopleasking if tibouchinas came in colours otherthan purple. So, when he started his ownwholesale nursery, he embarked on a missionto breed tibouchinas in new colours and sizes,and with more compact growth habits.
The first problem was mastering the releaseof the pollen from the flowers. In its naturalhabitat, the tibouchina is pollinated byhummingbirds, the fast beating of their wingsresonating at just the right frequency torelease the pollen. Terry had to work out a wayto replicate this, and how he did it is a secrethe guards closely. He persisted for nearly twodecades, sometimes thinking he had exhaustedall possibilities before discovering a newavenue to pursue. Eventually, after endlesscrossings of many seed-raised varieties,Terry’s dedication paid off, resulting in one ofAustralia’s greatest plant breeding programs.
Released this spring, the new range oftibouchinas is called Fantasy Flowers (see
box, page 24
box, page 24). The five cultivars all flowerprofusely, peaking in November and continuingthrough the warmer months. They featurelarge blooms in different colours and sizes.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Bird's Nest Ferns -- Growing Asplenium Nidus Ferns

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sat, 05 Oct 2013 09:40:00 +0000

Bird's nest ferns are actually one of two asplenium species found in cultivation. The other, often called the spleenwort or mother fern (A. bulbiferum) is much harder to grow and looks nothing like its cousin. These ferns are naturally epiphytic, and in their rainforest homes, can be found growing high in the crooks of trees. They grow in a series of erect, spoon-shaped and apple-colored fronds that rise from a central rosette. Healthy plants can have fronds up to three feet, but this is rare in most indoor situations. These are beautiful plants, but will require a bit of babying to reach their fullest potential.

Light: Filtered light to light shade. Don't expose to direct sun, other than very early morning sun.

Water: These are true jungle plants—keep their compost moist and provide the highest humidity possible.

Temperature: They will begin to suffer below about 55ºF for prolonged periods. Best kept between 70ºF and 80ºF, with high humidity. A warming pad will often help dormant plants.

Soil: Loose, rich organic compost.

Fertilizer: During growing season, fertilizer weekly or biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer. Don't put fertilizer pellets in the central cup.

Propagation:

These are not easy to propagate and cannot be divided, as with some other fern species. They are usually raised from spore or tissue culture, meaning propagation is usually beyond the reach of most home growers.

Repotting:

Bird's nest ferns prefer to be slightly underpotted. As naturally epiphytic plants, they are used to growing in a minimum of organic material, and mature plants will elongate above the soil level as the fern grows and sheds lower leaves. The problem, of course, is that large ferns will easily tip over their smaller pots. When repotting every other year, use the next pot size up and refresh the compost.

Varieties:

The basic bird's nest fern is Asplenium nidus. Another Asplenium species (A. bulbiferum) is sometimes available, but this is a much more difficult fern to grow indoors. Some varietals of A. nidus have been developed, usually with crinkled or frilly leaf margins.

Grower's Tips:

Bird's nest ferns are beautiful, and many conservatories and greenhouses boast impressively large specimens. They are a natural with orchids, bromeliads and other rainforest plants. The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing enough warmth and moisture. Given these two conditions, the ferns can withstand higher light levels. A shower ledge by a window is a good place for a healthy bird's nest fern.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Dogwood bush

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Mon, 30 Sep 2013 00:06:00 +0000

Growing a red twig dogwood is a great way to add spectacular color to the winter garden. The stems, which are green in spring and summer, turn bright red when the foliage drops off in autumn. The shrub produces creamy-white flowers in spring and berries that ripen from green to white by the end of summer. Both fruits and flowers look good against the dark background of the foliage, but pale in comparison to the brilliant winter display.

Growing a Red Twig Dogwood

Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar.

Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.

Red Twig Dogwood Care

Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color.

Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.

Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells.

Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Growing Almond Trees

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sun, 29 Sep 2013 00:22:00 +0000

– Information On The Care Of Almond Trees

Cultivated as early as 4,000 B.C., almonds are native to central and southwest Asia and were introduced to California in the 1840’s. Almonds (Prunus dolcis) are prized for use in candies, baked goods, and confections and for the oil processed from the nut. These stone fruits from growing almond trees are also reputed to aid in a number of physical ills and are used in folk remedies for everything from cancer treatment to corns to ulcers.

How to Grow an Almond Tree

When growing almond trees, it is helpful to know that the trees do not tolerate wet soil and are extremely susceptible to spring frost. They thrive in mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers in full sun. If your region does not fall within these parameters, it is unlikely an almond tree will set fruit for you.

Additionally, very few varieties of almond tree are self fertile and, therefore, need cross pollination for fruit production. So, you will need to plant at least two trees. If space is at a premium, you can even plant two in the same hole, wherein the trees will grow together and intertwine, allowing the flowers to cross pollinate.

Almond trees are deep rooted and should be planted in deep, fertile and well draining sandy loam. Almond trees should be planted 19-26 feet apart and irrigated despite the fact that the trees are drought tolerant. An application of nitrogen and organic fertilizer will aid in growth. These trees have high nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) requirements.

To plant the almond tree, dig a hole wider than deep and make sure the roots fit easily into the depth of the hole, then water in deeply. You may need to stake the little tree if you live in a windy area, but remove the stakes after a year or so to allow the tree proper growth.

Care of Almond Trees

Almond tree care varies according to the season. In the winter or dormant season, the growing almond trees should be pruned (December/January) to promote growth, allow light, and remove any dead or diseased limbs or suckers. Clean the area of debris around the tree to eliminate overwintering navel orange worms and spray with dormant oil to kill peach twig borer, San Jose scale and mite eggs.

During the spring bloom season, care of almond trees should include fertilization of mature trees with urea or manure, watered in or small doses of nitrogen for young trees. Drip irrigation should be initiated daily with the trees needing 2-3 inches of water. If the tree is planted in shallow or sandy soil, it will need more water.

During the summer, continue to irrigate and fertilize at the same rate as the spring application up until harvest.

Harvesting Almond Tree Fruit

The harvesting of almond tree fruit occurs after the hulls split and the shell becomes dry and brown in color. Almonds need 180-240 days for nuts to mature wherein the nut (embryo and shell) has dried to minimum moisture content.

To harvest the almonds, shake the tree, then separate the hulls from the nut. Freeze your almond nuts for 1-2 weeks to kill any residual worms and then store in plastic bags.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Plants And Potassium

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sat, 28 Sep 2013 21:30:00 +0000

Using Potassium And Potassium Deficiency Plants

The effects of potassium on plants is well known in that it improves how well a plant grows and produces but exactly why and how is not known. As a gardener, you do not need to know the why and how in order to be hurt by a potassium deficiency in plants. Keep reading to learn more about how potassium affects the plants in your garden and how to correct a potassium deficiency.

Effects Of Potassium On Plants

Potassium is important to plant growth and development. Potassium helps:
Plants grow faster
Use water better and be more drought resistant
Fight off disease
Resist pests
Grow stronger
Produce more crops
With all plants, potassium assists all functions within the plant. When a plant has enough potassium, it will simply be a better overall plant.
Signs Of Potassium Deficiency In Plants
Potassium deficiency in plants will cause a plant to perform more poorly overall than it should. Because of this reason, it can be difficult to see specific signs of potassium deficiency in plants.
When severe potassium deficiency happens, you may be able to see some signs in the leaves. The leaves, especially older leaves, may have brown spots, yellow edges, yellow veins or brown veins.

What Is In Potassium Fertiliser

Potassium fertilizer is sometimes called potash fertilizer. This is because potassium fertilizers often contain a substance called potash. Potash is a naturally occurring substance that occurs when wood is burned away or can be found in mines and the ocean.
While potash is technically a naturally occurring substance, only certain kinds of potassium fertilizers containing potash are considered organic.
Some sources refer to high potassium fertilizer. This is simply a fertilizer that is exclusively potassium or has a high K value.d

If you wish to add potassium to your soil at home, you can do so in several ways without having to use potash or other commercial potassium fertilizer. Compost made primarily from food byproducts is an excellent source of potassium. In particular, banana peels are very high in potassium.
Wood ash can also be used, but make sure that you apply wood ash only lightly as too much can burn your plants.

Greensand, which is available from most nurseries, will also add potassium to you garden.
Because potassium deficiency in plants can be hard to spot through looking at the plant, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested before adding more potassium.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Cankers On Trees

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sat, 28 Sep 2013 04:59:00 +0000

How To Treat Cankers
You may have noticed some unsightly cankerous looking wounds in your tree. What are tree cankers and what causes them, and how do you treat cankers in a tree once you see them? Continue reading to learn more about the types of canker in trees and how to go about preventing tree cankers.
What Are Tree Cankers?
Cankers on trees appear as isolated dead areas on the bark, stems, branches or twigs. Cankers may appear as discolored areas or depressed places on the bark.
A fungus that enters the tree and grows between the bark and the wood killing the bark generally causes cankers.
However, cankers can also be caused by damage from weed eaters, lawnmowers, chemicals, insects or environmental conditions.
The canker itself makes the tree highly vulnerable to bacteria, fungus and insects. Young fruit trees have an especially difficult time recovering from cankers. Established shade trees may weaken and become susceptible to wind damage.
The healthier the tree is, the more likely it is to ward off serious damage from a canker disease. Trees that are weakened by temperature, drought, poor nutrition or other present diseases are much more susceptible to canker diseases. Canker diseases are more common with hardwood trees than on conifers.
Type of Cankers in Trees can Vary
Depending on the region where you live, different cankers on trees are found. Some of the more common types of canker in trees include:
Thyronectria canker is caused by a fungus and is most common on the honey locust tree.
Nectria canker tends to attack deciduous shade trees, crabapples and pears.
Cytospora canker is found most often in fruit trees, hardwood forest trees and shrubs, as well as over 70 species of conifers.
Hypoxylon canker is seen in different species of oak including red and white.
How Do You Treat Cankers in a Tree Effectively?
So how do you treat cankers in a tree? Preventing tree cankers is the best method of protection. It is best to plant native or well-adapted species for your growing region. These tree species will suffer less stress and adapt well to the soil type, sun exposure and overall environmental conditions in your area.
The avoidance of stress is the best and most effective protection against canker diseases. Proper tree care including watering, feeding, mulching and pruning will help to keep trees as healthy as possible.
Once a tree has canker, it is essential to remove as much of the canker fungi as possible from the tree to avoid infection and spread. Prune only during dry weather and make cuts with a sterilized cutting tool at least 4 inches below the edge of the canker on trees.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Pruning Roses

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sat, 14 Sep 2013 03:40:00 +0000

Pruning is a great job to undertake and I can't wait to get started. But early winter (June), with our temperatures still reaching 17 degrees , it's still too soon and I will have to restrain myself a little longer. It's that time of year again and many roses enthusiasts are turning their minds to this task. There are principles to be followed if you want to do the right thing, but there is really no need to find it daunting.

Just a few major steps first for beginners.
The more you know about your rose the easier the task will be.

For example:
Is your rose once-flowering or remontant (repeat flowering)?

What is its normal growth habit - climber, tall, medium or short bush?

Do you get frosts in your area? This is very important for the timing of pruning.

When to prune
The time varies according to rose type and location.
If your rose is just once-flowering, it should be pruned as soon as possible after the flowering is finished and this usually means late spring or early summer.

Most old and species roses require little or no pruning, other than to keep the plant from growing far too big (so you cut to the size you want – allowing for growth in the following season).

The oldest less productive, dry- greyish looking stems can also be removed to encourage the growth of more productive (young , green, sappy-looking) stems from the base or from near the base.

I cut out old wood (to the base of the plant) and prune back any branches which are clearly too big ( or going to be too big), knowing that although I may lose some flowers by doing this, there will still be a wonderful show in the following season from the many canes

I have left. Be aware that any pruning at this time will remove the hips which can otherwise make a wonderful show and be enjoyed throughtout the summer and well into autumn.

That is what I usually prefer to do. In Autumn, when the hips are past their best, I cut out old wood (to the base of the plant) and prune back any branches which are clearly too big ( or going to be too big), knowing that although I may lose some flowers by doing this, there will still be a wonderful show in the following season from the many canes I have left.

Repeat-flowering roses also benefit from being pruned after flowering, so I prune them three or four times each season.

It is the severity of the pruning that varies. In summer, most gardeners are happy to just dead- head their roses, and certainly this is usually adequate after the first flowering in the spring. Even at this time, however, I take each stem of a spent flower well back if the rose is a very vigorous variety, so that it does not become too tall or 'leggy' in the summer. Other stems may just be tipped. This procedure is repeated in the summer and perhaps in early autumn (depending on the season and the variety). I have had good flowering well into May, in a season with prolonged warm weather and little rain.

By late autumn or early winter, the rose garden is generally in need of attention, but my advice is to let it rest if possible and not rush into the winter prune (the most severe prune), too early. In so doing, you may be able to enjoy the last few odd roses with their unique touches of autumnal colourings, and you do allow the new young stems to grow and harden off, before you have to consider what should be pruned away. In frost-prone or very cold areas, leave the pruning until all chances of frost or extreme cold are over. If you prune early and warm weather follows, new growth will appear on the plant and this will be damaged when the cold comes. The plant is unnecessarily 'knocked back'. Wait for all leaf fall, to show the plant is dormant.

How to winter prune
After many years of pruning thousands of roses I still most frequently stand in front of each rose and think 'What on earth am I going to do with this?' Over the years, the answers just come a little more quickly. If the top is very tall, spindly and in my way, I may initially just clip it all off roughly, at one level, with hedge clippers, to allow me to work more easily.

Then I go to the base of the plant and I like to use two handled secateurs to cut out the old stems (see description line 15, above) and any laterals (small stems coming from main ones)which cross over or which are growing towards the middle of the plant. Using my one handled secateurs, I make my way up from the base in this way, aiming to clear the centre of the plant and to maintain a good structure with strong, upright stems forming the shape.

Clear away all leaves and debris that may have collected at the base.

When I reach what can be considered an appropriate height for that plant - short, medium or tall - I then look to prune each stem to a bud at the desired height ( remember to allow for the spring growth).

The later you leave the pruning the easier it will be to find a bud, as they begin to swell. Basically, however, there will be a bud at each leaf join. (pull away a leaf from the stem and you will find a slight swelling or even just a line).

Find a bud growing in the direction you want the next stem to grow, (usually outwards, keeping the centre free), cut at an angle about one centimetre from the bud, so that the lowest part of the cut is on the side opposite to the bud. (this is the ideal, but if it sounds too complex do not be overly concerned; just cut at this level and with time as you become used to pruning, you will find appropriate buds easily).

Shape the top of the plant as you desire – stems should usually be of similar height or perhaps reach a dome shape if there are many.

Carry away and dispose of all prunings and leaf litter as they harbour diseases.

Spray plant and surrounding area with lime sulphur to keep diseases such as blackspot at bay.

Pruning climbers

This is task is even more clearly demonstrated in the garden, but basically the same principles apply as those given for bushes.

Each year one or more of the oldest canes may be selected to be pruned out to encourage new basal growth.

The remaining long canes are best bent and fixed in fan shape or horizontally, as flowering will then occur at frequent intervals. If this is not possible and all the growth is to be vertical, with flowering just at the top of each stem, cut these at different levels.

For example, if stems are upright against a wall, pole or fence, leave the back two or three as tall as possible (or desired), select the next two or three and prune them somewhat shorter, and so on down the plant in a graded effect, with the shortest at the front.

Flowers will then develop at all levels instead of the unappealing 'bare-legged look' with all the flowering at the top and just stems at eye -level and below.

There is no need to feed at this time. Wait until the warmer weather comes and the first signs of growth(buds swelling ) can be seen. You will be well rewarded within a few short weeks!

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Thu, 08 Aug 2013 21:38:00 +0000

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Tree disease diagnosis and tree protection treatment begins with a comprehensive inspection of your landscape by one of Zeal Property Maintenance industry-certified arborists. During a consultation, your arborist will be able to determine the overall health of the landscape, identify specific tree diseases, and recommend any needed tree services to preserve the vitality of your property. Zeal Property Maintenance experience, expertise and state-of-the-art equipment enable us to quickly diagnose tree diseases and recommend specific treatments for tree protection and vitality.

Treatment for Tree Diseases

Tree service programs designed to maximize the health and beauty of your landscape need to take into account the specific conditions of the trees at your home. Tree disease treatment is most effective when the type of tree, disease characteristics and your personal preferences are all taken into consideration.

Zeal Property Maintenance foliar tree disease treatments are designed to protect your valuable evergreen and deciduous ornamentals from damage due to foliar tree diseases.

Most of these are caused by fungi that are prevalent during spring when the weather is rainy. Treatments provide a protective barrier on the leaf or needle surface that will prevent the germination and growth of spores that cause tree diseases.

Common Tree Diseases and Treatments

Professional tree disease treatments can help protect your landscape investment and enhance your property value. Our arborists are experienced tree doctors who diagnose and treat many types of trees, including pine, elm, dogwood, maple tree varieties, cherry, ash, willow, magnolia and many others. Below are some of the most common tree diseases and their treatments:

Dutch Elm Tree Disease

Dutch Elm Disease has felled feature elm trees on many northeastern landscapes. As a preventive measure, specimen elm trees (Ulmus americana) can be successfully trunk injected during the spring/summer with a treatment that will prevent the development of the Dutch Elm Disease fungus for up to three years. However, this tree disease treatment is not always effective against previously infected trees.

Fruit Tree Diseases

There are specific fungal infections, as well as insect and mite activity that commonly affect orchard trees and which may impact the production of edible fruit. Zeal Property Maintenance fruit tree disease treatments follow a protocol developed by several leading universities, utilizing the minimum number of treatments required to facilitate a productive harvest.

Sycamore Anthracnose

Sycamore Anthracnose is a common tree disease that results in extensive defoliation, shoot dieback, and twig death of your sycamore trees especially when extended periods of wet weather occur in the spring. Because it is very difficult to control through conventional disease treatments, Zeal uses a macroinfusion system that will prevent infection of your sycamore specimens for two years.

Zeal can also help prevent and treat other common tree diseases including dogwood anthracnose, apple scab, cedar apple rust and more.

Call 1300882787. today for a complimentary consultation with Zeal Property Maintenance fully trained professionals and certified arborists

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Thu, 08 Aug 2013 21:38:00 +0000

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Treatment for Tree Diseases

Zeal Property Maintenance foliar tree disease treatments are designed to protect your valuable evergreen and deciduous ornamentals from damage due to foliar tree diseases.

Common Tree Diseases and Treatments

Dutch Elm Tree Disease

Fruit Tree Diseases

Sycamore Anthracnose

Zeal can also help prevent and treat other common tree diseases including dogwood anthracnose, apple scab, cedar apple rust and more.

Call 1300882787. today for a complimentary consultation with Zeal Property Maintenance fully trained professionals and certified arborists

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Top dressing for your lawn at the beginning of the growing season

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Wed, 07 Aug 2013 22:35:00 +0000

Why Topdress?

The main reason for topdressing is to level the lawn or build it up to the desired level. Topdressing fills holes or low spots and encourages the grass to spread by giving it a medium to grow in.

Tools

Successful topdressing requires a few tools and some suitable soil. A good wheelbarrow with an inflatable tyre will make wheeling the soil easier. For shoveling and spreading the soil, an aluminium shovel is priceless. A small level-lawn is also a worthwhile investment for leveling and rubbing the soil in.
Soil selection is up to you but it is best to use a soil that is consistent with the soil that the lawn is growing in. This is usually sandy type loam. I prefer use a clean sandy loam rather than some of the lawn topdressing mixes available today which may claim to contain organic matter and fertiliser. My reasons for this are that a clean soil is easier to work with, resulting in a better looking finished job and you can make more money by fertilizing your client's lawns at a later date. It is up to you as a professional lawn contractors to determine the required amount of soil that is needed to complete the job.

Preparation

Before you actually spread the soil, make sure the grass is actively growing. Don't top dress dormant grass. You will damage it, if not kill it. A good idea is to give the lawn a fertilize a couple of weeks before topdressing, this will help the grass push through the soil quickly. Also, mow the lawn the day before you do the job. Long grass takes more soil to cover properly and the thicker the soil layer, the harder it is for the grass to emerge.

Doing the Job

Alright, you've fertilized, you've cut the lawn, purchased the soil and you are ready to go, but it looks like rain! DON'T DO IT! Why? Besides making a big mess, wet soil does not rub in well and can sometimes dry like a hard crust on top of the grass, making it very difficult for the grass to grow through.
Okay, now the sun is out, lets get into it. Start by spreading an even layer of soil over the lawn covering the entire area. I've seen many people topdress their lawns but only covering it roughly. If you are going to the trouble, at least make sure you do it right.

Once the lawn is completely covered, don't rush in to level it off, give it a couple of hours to dry first. This will allow you to rub in the soil more effectively and you will be able to fill up holes rather than smoothing wet soil over the top. This couple of hours will allow you to go and mow another lawn or work out what to do with any soil you have left over.

Once the soil is dry, start to rub it in with the level-lawn. This can be done in any direction, just as long as you go over the whole lawn. Pick up any excess with a shovel and make sure the job is as neat as possible. Leave the site clean and tidy. Sweep up any soil off paths and drives as clients really appreciate it and it makes you look more professional. Don't water the lawns for a couple of days. This will let the grass punch through the soil.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Pruning citrus trees sydney

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Mon, 05 Aug 2013 04:52:00 +0000

Fertilising and Pruning

Fertilising

Citrus are high feeders and love fertiliser. In many books you will read, fertilise your citrus twice a year. We have a different opinion. “A little bit - often” is our philosophy. Therefore feed your citrus at least four times per year. Timing is not critical, if you haven’t feed your tree for a while, start now. There are many different commercial citrus fertilisers on the market. We generally don’t recommend these fertilisers as their instructions are often difficult to comprehend,

eg. X kilograms per age of tree.

There is nothing quite like, good old fashioned blood and bone or well rotted chicken manure or cow manure or ‘Organic Life’ or ‘Dynamic Lifter’. Any of these are fine and it’s a good idea to alternate between them. Water your tree well; remove any mulch from around the tree. Spread the fertiliser evenly around the soil underneath the

canopy, but not directly against the trunk. The amount varies, depending on which fertiliser you choose. Don’t be afraid, you can use up to half a bucket, per tree of organic fertiliser. Generally the organic fertilisers are less harmful if you accidentally overfeed. When all else fails, read the instructions on the bag. There is no need to cultivate the fertiliser into the soil as this will only cause damage to the surface roots. Water in well and then replace the mulch.

Citrus in pots also require regular feeding. Fertilise at least four times per year. Either ‘Organic Life’ or ‘Dynamic Lifter’ is great; put a light covering over the entire surface of the pot. If these products are a little too smelly, you can use ‘Osmocote’ or ‘Greenjacket’ slow release fertilisers.

Pruning

Citrus unlike many other fruit trees don’t require annual pruning to aid in fruit production. They can be happily left for

many years unpruned and will still produce an abundance of fruit.

Alternatively, citrus can be pruned into any shape that is desired. Citrus are often trained and pruned into Standards, for a formal topiary effect. Planting citrus close together and regular pruning can form a lovely dense fruiting hedge. Citrus are very adaptable and can be trained and pruned into many shapes only limited by your imagination.

Australian Cumquat pruned as a Standard

Espaliered Citrus are becoming very trendy for the smaller gardens or balconies. An espalier is when the citrus is pruned and shaped flat against a wall or lattice. All varieties of citrus are suitable and it is simply a case of tying the new growth back against the wall, fence or lattice and pruning off, any forward growth that can’t be tied back, creating a flat two dimensional plant. This saves space, creates a beautiful green wall and the citrus still produce an abundance of fruit.

Kaffir Lime trained as an espalier

Old, neglected, citrus can be resurrected by a heavy rejuvenation prune. If the tree is old and ugly and hasn’t fruited well for years attack it with a chain saw, taking it right back to the main fork. This sounds drastic, but the tree was useless as it was, so you have nothing to lose. As it starts to re shoot, fertilise well and water regularly. Most often the tree with comeback better than ever and continue producing fruit for many more years.

Basic Deciduous Fruit Tree Pruningfor the Small

For the home orchard, pruning to the vase system is probably the simplest method. If your treeshave been cut back in the nursery, a basic framework may have already been established. Theaim is to select future leaders (main structural limbs) from uniformly spaced shoots of similardiameter (see Figure 1A). The selected leaders should be pruned to about the same height fromthe ground to outside buds. Avoid selecting branches for leaders with narrow crotch angles (lessthan 30 degrees), as they are likely to split under crop load later. If the nursery tree has not beencut back, it will need to be cut off at about 60 cm above ground level and allowed to shoot andgrow on for a year before selecting the leaders

Crotch angle

Leave the weakest leader the longest this will encourage it to strengthen. This also means thestrongest leader should be pruned the shortest, to weaken it.
Always prune the leaders to an outside bud.
Strong growth should be removed if it is heading into the centre of the tree or growing towardsanother leader. The only strong growth to be encouraged should be heading away from thecentre of the tree and in the lower half of the tree.
All fruiting arms/side shoots should not grow to be more than one-third the diameter of the limbthey are attached to, at the junction. Growth greater than this ‘one-third’ rule should be removedbefore it takes over from the main limb.
All fruiting arms/side shoots should decrease in diameter (strength); the higher in the tree theyare located.
Vigorous upright growth (water shoots) growing in the centre of the tree should be removed.These shoots are best removed in the summer before their diameter is such that it requires alarge pruning cut.
Prune upright shoots to horizontal side laterals if you wish to weaken their growth.
Prune off narrow (weak) crotch angled growth.
Remove dead or diseased wood and burn.
Remove crowded and crossed over branches and laterals.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Cuttings

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:14:00 +0000

How often do we see a lovely shrub or perennial in a friend’s garden and just wish we had one like it? And with a little skill, ingenuity AND your friend’s permission, there’s no reason why you can’t have one or more the same. A word of caution here though, to avoid spreading weeds make sure that you don’t propagate anything you can’t identify, and ALWAYS ask permission. It is very frustrating for proud gardeners with attractive shrubs tumbling over their garden fence to find pieces constantly being ‘ripped’ off by passing walkers. The plant will suffer from needless brutalisation and the ‘cuttings’ may not actually survive the damage of being torn from the parent plant. So just ask!

Cuttings

A cutting is the term we use for lengths of plant material being used specifically to propagate new plants. In contrast to growing plants from seed, where we may get plants that are slightly different from what we expected, cuttings will always be clones of the parent plant from which the cutting was taken. So a camellia cutting from a plant with a pink and white flower will produce another identical camellia with a pink and white flower. If you were to take the seed from that same parent camellia you would not be guaranteed to get a camellia with a pink and white flower. Nature has a tendency to play games when growing from seed, all in the name of maintaining a healthy gene pool, of course!

Softwood, Semi-hardwood and Hardwood Cuttings

These terms relate to the period in the growing cycle when the cutting is taken.

Softwood Cuttings are generally taken in spring and early summer when the plant is putting on its new growth and there are a lot of growth hormones in the plant system. Soft wood cuttings usually strike (start to grow roots) relatively quickly. Chose slightly firmer pieces of plant material and avoid very soft sappy growth. Softwood cuttings generally benefit from the addition of some heat (mentioned further on).

Semi-hardwood Cuttings are taken mid- summer after flowering when the plant is putting on new growth and starting to harden. They strike quickly and give good results without the need for additional heat.

Hardwood Cuttings are generally taken at the end of summer and take longer to strike than those taken earlier in the season. However as this period coincides with the garden’s Autumn pruning, particularly of perennials, it is easy to source cutting materials. And with so much cutting material available, even if some fail, most will be ready to plant the following spring.

Types of Plants suitable for Cuttings

All perennial and shrubby plants provide excellent potential for cuttings. The most successful plant material for cuttings comes from the ‘square’ stemmed plants eg from the Laminaceae family. This includes salvias, mint, rosemary and many other herbs. Many of the perennials in the daisy family, like Federation Daisies, also do well from cuttings however other daisy plants, like Echinacea sps, are best propagated from root division.

Taking cuttings

The preferred cutting length is about 10cm to 12cm with at least 2 to 3 nodes on each cutting. The lower cut should be on an angle just beneath the first node. You can also ‘nick’ the area just beneath the lower node taking care not to damage the node itself. This node will be below the soil surface and this is where the root zone will develop.

The top cut should be made above the next node (or the one above). The entire cutting length should contain 2 or 3 nodes in total. These upper nodes will be where the leaves of the new plant will shoot. Take care not to damage any of the nodes along the cutting length. Plant nodes have the amazing ability to produce either roots or leaves depending on whether they are above or below the soil level which is why cuttings are so effective.

The lower node may be dipped in a ‘rooting hormone’ if desired although if a lower strike rate is acceptable this is not essential. For a natural rooting hormone you may try dipping the cutting in honey.
Reputably pieces of willow (an introduced species) soaked in water for about 10 days produce an excellent rooting hormone. This may be why they have been so successful at colonising our river banks and become serious environmental weeds!! If using this willow method, dispose of the willow pieces carefully so as not to increase their weedy spread. And yes, they probably will be still viable even after 10days in a bucket of water!
Avoid taking cutting from any plant when it is in flower as these cuttings will have less potential for success.
If the cutting has broad-leaf leaves, eg feijoa plants remove all except the top two leaves. If the top two leaves are very large, they can be cut in half laterally so the cutting doesn’t lose too much moisture through the leaves.
If the cuttings have multiple narrow small leaves, eg lavender and rosemary, remove the leaves on the lower 2/3rds of the cutting. The multiple nodes left all have the potential to produce roots when they strike.

Growing Medium

Cuttings do best in a free draining mixture so that they don’t rot. It is best to put lots of cuttings in the same pot rather than single cuttings in many post. The warmth and humidity of having them all clustered together will help them to strike. To increase the warmth and humidity, and maintain heat overnight, if possible cover the pot with a clear plastic ‘hood’ or the end of a polystyrene bottle. If doing this, keep the pot out of direct sunlight so that the air inside in the pot doesn’t heat up too much and ‘cook’ the cuttings. Mist the cuttings regularly to help regulate the temperature and keep a moist environment.

Potting up

Leave the cuttings in the pot long enough for them to establish strong root systems. Remove any cuttings that start to look like they have failed so that you don’t allow rots and fungal problems to enter the pot. They will usually look weak, brown off and begin to rot at the base.
You can generally tell when the cutting has taken if it starts to put on new leaves and to grow. However be patient as the roots may take longer to develop. Continue to water the cuttings until you are ready to pot up.
You can test for roots by gently rocking the cutting. If you feel no resistance, then the roots have probably not yet developed.
When you think the cuttings are ready to pot up, tip the pot gently upside down and remove all of the contents together. Lay on a piece of newspaper and gently start to disentangle the roots. It is important to minimise the damage to these young roots as the vigour of the new plants depends on a strong root system.

Pot the young cuttings into small pots with a good quality potting mix. Water in with a weak solution of seaweed fertiliser or worm leachate tea. Put the cuttings in a sheltered spot to ‘harden off’ before gradually introducing them to a more open environment.

Once the root mass of the cutting starts to fill its new pot, either pot on again or, if the conditions are suitable, plant into a prepared garden bed. And enjoy the fruits of your labour for years to come!

Many new plant cultivars that have been developed over the past decade may be subject to Plant Breeders Rights (PBR). PBR is effectively a plant patent. You may propagate these plants for your own use but NOT for resale unless you pay a royalty to the PBR holder. If in doubt, check the original plant label or seed packet or look for the PBR symbol.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Eucalypts

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 09:09:00 +0000

Introduction

Eucalypts are almost a defining feature of Australia. They are the dominant tree of the higher rainfall areas of the country, and sparsely represented in the driest regions. There are nearly 900 species which have adapted to nearly every environment. In EUCLID we include the long-standing genus Angophora, which is exclusive to eastern Australia excluding Tasmania, and the recently recognised Corymbia, occurring primarily in northern Australia. SeeEvolutionary relationships in Eucalyptus sens.lat. for more detail of generic relationships.

Eucalypts must have been known by Europeans from the early 16th century when the Portuguese colonised Timor. There are at least two indigenous species, E. alba and E. urophylla on the island. Following the Portuguese occupation, it is probable that eucalypts were established from seed in Brazil which was colonised about the same time, although records are too hazy to confirm this. Eucalyptus came into recorded history in 1788 when the French botanist, L'Héritier de Brutelle, described Eucalyptus obliqua, the well known Messmate of widespread distribution in the wetter regions of the south-east of the continent. This species was named from a specimen collected at Adventure Bay on Tasmania's Bruny Island by David Nelson, one of the botanists on Captain James Cook's third voyage in 1777.

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Evolution and distribution

Eucalypts are likely to have evolved from rainforest precursors in response to great changes in the landscape, soils and climate of the continent. No point of origin is possible to determine but it is assumed to have been on the Australian landmass from which several species have migrated probably by land bridges to islands north of the continent.

One species, E. deglupta, is distributed as far as the island of Mindanao, in the southern Philippines which places one eucalypt naturally in the northern hemisphere. However, the genus is now cultivated world-wide in tropical and temperate countries and in some places has become naturalised.

Eucalypts are now of great importance commercially in other countries, particularly South Africa, China, India and Brazil and to a lesser extent in central and northern Africa and in Mediterranean countries. They have many advantages apart from the timber and fibre which are the basis of huge paper industries. Eucalypts are also notable for their oils, use in lowering water tables, horticulture, shade and simple ornamentation, largely for the bark features and colourful flowers in many species.

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Identifying eucalypts

Innumerable books have been published on eucalypts. Some include a wide range of information on a regional basis, others concentrate on the more spectacular flowering species while others specialise in identification. Identification has always been regarded as difficult, partly due to the lack of instruction on specific botanical characteristics. Understanding the eucalypt plant is a vital element in attempting the identification process.

It is a fact that, to the uninitiated, most eucalypt species tend to look the same, and while taxa in some groups are indeed difficult to distinguish, in general there are good features and clear characteristics to use in identification. In EUCLID we have made particular effort to explain specific eucalypt features and to aid identification.

Eucalypt leaf morphology provides a range of diagnostic features as well as injects a level of confusion in the change from seedling to juvenile to sapling to adult leaves that takes place in the majority of species. In eucalypts there is a striking array of juvenile or seedling leaf types from opposite and completely connate pairs of leaves (e.g. E. uncinata), to crowded and spirally arranged short linear leaves (e.g. E. brockwayi), to disjunct petiolate ovate leaves (many species, e.g. E. obliqua, E. ewartiana, C. terminalis), even leaves with peltate leaf bases (e.g. C. citriodora). The descriptions accompanying every species in EUCLID include details of seedling, juvenile and adult leaves.

Some species never, or seldom, develop true adult leaves in the mature crown but instead retain their juvenile leaf phase where the leaves are commonly glaucous and rounded. This condition is rare in eastern Australian species but is notable in E. risdonii an endemic to Tasmania and in E. cinerea of New South Wales and Victoria. In south-western Western Australia many more species have the glaucous crown, probably the most spectacular being the glaucous-leaved E. macrocarpa which produces large red flowers. Across northern Australia there are fewer species with these characteristics but the widespread tropical box E. pruinosa, the abundant Queensland and New South Wales ironbark E. melanophloia, the highly restricted Kimberley endemicE. ceracea and the well-known desert mallee or tree E. gamophylla are examples with the crown of retained glaucous juvenile leaves.

In south-eastern Australia, nearly all eucalypt species have green leaves of roughly similar size and fairly inconspicuous white flowers. Only two species in south-eastern Australia, E. sideroxylon and E. leucoxylon, can have strongly coloured flowers; in south-western Australia C. ficifolia, E. erythrocorys and E. caesia provide examples of species with spectacular flowers. A few tropical species have brilliantly coloured flowers, e.g. E. miniata, E. phoenicea, C. ptychocarpa and C. cadophora subsp. pliantha.

Eucalypt fruits (gumnuts) also show great diversity in form and size with the smallest occurring in northern Australia, e.g. E. raveretiana in central Queensland, E. brachyandra in north-western Australia, and among the largest being E. gigantangion from the Top End of the Northern Territory, C. abergiana from the Atherton area of Queensland, C. calophylla from the Perth area in Western Australia, and E. youngiana from the Great Victoria Desert of South Australia and adjacent areas of Western Australia. There is great variation in size between these extremes throughout the country, but in south-eastern Australia fruits tend to be smaller than elsewhere.

So the problems of identification in EUCLID for eastern Australian species usually fall back on the less conspicuous and accessible but highly diagnostic characters, often ones that may be less relevant in other plant groups, and this is also true in other parts of the country. In Western Australia or northern Australia, however, if the tree or mallee has brightly coloured flowers or has very large or very small fruit, identification may be easier.

In working with eucalypts in the field it is important to recognise whether the trees are cultivated, or occur naturally. If cultivated, they could be from anywhere in Australia and the identification cannot take into account the geographic regions used in EUCLID. If identifying a specimen from a natural stand then geographic regions can aid in making an identification but it is not essential if the specimen has sufficient morphological features.

To aid identification the observer in the field also needs to take into account other aspects of the specimen, viz. the height of the plant, the number of stems or trunks, the colour of the crown, the overall appearance of the crown to determine if it is composed of juvenile or adult leaves, general size of the leaves (very small, e.g. E. parvula or E. kruseana, or very large, e.g. E. globulus) and the type of bark, basically, whether rough or smooth, and extent of coverage by the rough bark of the smaller branchlets. The observer also needs bear in mind there is often considerable variation in some characters between trees of the same species in one population, especially in size of parts, such as length and width of leaves, length of petioles, bud sizes, lengths of peduncles and pedicels, and fruit dimensions and position of the disc relative to the rim of the fruit.

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Inspection of specimens

The 'internal' features of the eucalypt plant, such as the number of opercula in the bud, arrangement of stamens, number of ovule rows and seed shape, are usually more reliable for identification than the 'external' features. They are relatively protected from the elements and from various forms of predation. They are the parts that require handling and close inspection or even dissection, as opposed to macro observation. Specimens for study may be obtained in several ways from a living tree. Sampling smaller trees and mallees is usually easy because the leaves and flowering structures are often at about head height and no sophisticated methods of collection are needed. For most trees, however, a weighted length of rope can be thrown over a low branch which can then be broken off with a sharp tug and pulled to the ground for close inspection of the parts (shown in image). Alternatively, for trees of moderate height, pole pruners can be used less destructively than the weighted rope. For tall trees it is a curious fact that the flowers and fruits are small and scarcely visible to the unaided eye, e.g. E. regnans. Then the canopy needs to be inspected with binoculars and a useful branch selected. If it is above rope-throwing height, the branch may be reached with the use of a shanghai by shooting a lead weight attached to a fine, light line over the branch and then attaching a thicker, stronger rope to one end of this line and then pulling this line up over the branch. Often the smallest trees or mallees have the largest buds and fruits, e.g. E. pyriformis. These plants are the easiest to sample, examine and assess.

The whole process of identification begins in the field with broad external assessment and ends with microscopic examination. The characters in this sequence of investigations have reliabilities that vary from very low to high and finally absolute. With experience the user is able to weigh up these relative values and apply them with confidence.

In summary it might be said that the number of opercula on the developing flower bud is of absolute reliability, staminal inflexion, ovule row numbers and seed shape are of high reliability, bud numbers, flower colour and bark type of medium reliability, leaf colour of low reliability, bark colour of very low reliability. External features are very susceptible to seasonal and intra-population variability.

When choosing a specimen for identification there are some things to be avoided. For example always choose 'typical' leaves on the specimen for assessment, avoiding the largest and the smallest. Similarly, be cautious when using fruit that are lying on the ground, especially if in a mixed eucalypt species stand, for they may not belong to the tree under which they are found. When searching for juvenile leaves make sure they belong to the tree or mallee you are investigating – if there is any doubt do not use them. A mixed species stand may produce a variety of juvenile leaves. Time spent looking at both adult and juvenile growth in a stand will be very rewarding.

If an identification is proving difficult then growing of seedlings may be a help in resolving it. Obviously this slows down the process, but valuable information can be obtained from observing seedling growth, firstly the shape of the cotyledons and secondly whether the leaves become disjunct early in growth or persist as opposite for many pairs. The shape of seedling leaves, whether they are stalked or stalkless and other leaf features can help also.

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Understanding some of the important characters in the eucalypts, will aid in the process of identification. Descriptive information on some of the important parts of the eucalypt plant follows.

Habit


Tree - erect single-stemmed woody plant with various crown forms. The definition of tree deliberately has no upper or lower height limit. If the user finds it difficult to decide whether the specimen is a tree or a shrub it is probably better to avoid using this character. The definition of tree includes the two special categories in common usage only in Western Australia - mallet and marlock (see more below). Note that a tree may have a lignotuber at the base of the trunk and epicormic shoots on the trunk or stems, or lack either or both of these means of vegetative recovery after disturbance such as fire.	Tree
Mallee or shrub - a mallee is a woody plant that is multistemmed from ground level and seldom taller than 10 m. In eucalypts a shrub is a low growing and reproductively mature plant, that may be less than 1 m tall, and is usually growing in an extreme environment. There is no clear distinction between mallee and shrub.A mallee has at the base of the stems a woody structure, the lignotuber, that has numerous dormant buds that enable vegetative recovery after fire or other disturbance. The term mallee is often applied to eucalypts and has wide currency in southern Australia. Shrub is infrequently applied to eucalypts, good examples being E. vernicosa in high mountain areas of Tasmania, E. yalatensis on the Nullarbor Plain and E. surgensatop coastal cliffs at Toolinna Cove in Western Australia. Naturally low-growing marlock plants are included here as well as below, e.g. E. mcquoidii which may be reproductive at about 0.4 m tall.	Mallee (top) or Shrub (bottom)
Mallet or marlock (only applies to Western Australian species) - a mallet is a tree with a slender trunk with branches steeply angled on it, and lacks both lignotuber and epicormic buds (e.g. E. astringens). A marlock is a single-stemmed shrub or small tree with spreading branches that are densely leafy often almost to the ground, and lacks a lignotuber (e.g. E. platypus). Correctly usedmallet or marlock has great discriminating value. Species with mallet habit are also included in Tree above.Marlock, as here defined, is easily understood whilst the plants are relatively small, but from 8 m tall the distinction between marlock, mallet and tree is often unclear. Marlock applies to relatively few species, but some are frequently cultivated e.g. E. platypus, E. conferruminata, growing taller than they do in the wild.	Mallet (left) or Marlock (right)(WA only)

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Bark

Having taken into account the habit features, the next important character to assess in eucalypts is the type of bark. It pays to think in terms of the growth processes. Each year there is an increment of living bark that results in the continual expanding girth of the tree. In all species the outermost layer dies each year. In about half of the species this dead layer completely sheds, exposing a new layer of living bark, and the process continues year after year. These are known as the smooth barks. The dead bark may be shed from these trees in large slabs, in ribbons, or in small flakes. Invariably the newly exposed living bark is relatively smooth and brightly coloured but this fades with weathering. Often the dead bark comes off in pieces at various times of the year such that the trunk is mottled depending on the amount of time the newly revealed patches of bark are exposed to weathering.

A curious but easily recognised bark type is the minnirichi which is restricted to a few species from southern Western Australia and arid Central Australia. This bark seems rough at first glance and on close inspection is seen to be formed of partly shed longitudinal strips that curl outwards, initially exposing pale or greenish underbark. The older attached strips turn deep red on aging. In one minnirichi species, in particular, the lower bark becomes thick and fibrous while only the upper bark is typical minnirichi.

In many species the smooth bark is uniform over the whole trunk in both texture and colour, e.g. E. mannifera, E. tintinnans, E. salmonophloia and C. aparerrinja. In others the bark is mottled, e.g. C. maculata and E. dawsonii, while in a few species, particularly the red gums and the grey gums, the newly exposed smooth bark can be brilliant orange or yellow, fading to greys, the surface texture of which becomes granular with age.

The irregular markings on the living bark of some smooth bark species are known as scribbles and are caused by burrowing insect larvae. Insects are attracted to some species and not others, whether to eat the leaves, suck nectar or to lay their eggs. Some insects are particularly partial to species in Eucalyptus subgenus Eucalyptus - stringybarks, ashes, peppermints, and related species, and lay their eggs in the bark. The larvae then eat their way through the surface of the bark leaving a characteristic zig-zag trail or scribble.

In the ribbon gums the long strips of dead bark are imperfectly shed and hang conspicuously in the crown, particularly around the trunk.

In great contrast are the remaining half of the eucalypts, the rough barks, in which the outer annual increment of dead bark simply dries out, leaving the natural fibres which do not shed and which accumulate year after year. These may remain loosely intertwined as in stringybarks, e.g. E. macrorhyncha, or the peppermints, e.g. E. radiata, or more tightly adherent as in the boxes, e.g. E. leptophleba or many of the rough-barked bloodwoods e.g. C. gummifera.

In some species rough bark becomes infused with gum exudates which harden, resulting in the ironbark, e.g. E. crebra, E. jenseni or the compacted types of rough bark, e.g. E. smithii, E. elata and E. sargentii.

The ironbarks only occur in northern and eastern Australia but some species from south-western Western Australia have very hard rough bark that is thinner than that of the eastern ironbarks to which they are only very distantly related, e.g. E. indurata.

In many species of bloodwood and some ghost gums rough bark develops that becomes tessellated to a greater or lesser extent, e.g. C. tessellaris, C. cliftoniana.

Assessing rough bark type is one of the most difficult features in identifying eucalypts. The rough bark may cover the whole trunk and branches, or it may shed from the branches, or develop on the trunk only, to certain characteristic heights up the trunk. Consequently we refer to species as being wholly rough-barked or partly rough-barked, half-barked, or with rough bark only at the base (black butt). There is usually a range of variation in the bark between trees of the same species. This is illustrated by E. decipiens which is divided taxonomically into three subspecies diagnosed by the extent and type of rough bark. Since there are so many different types of rough bark, defined by their texture, colour and persistence on the trunk, we suggest that bark, because of the variability and imprecision of the descriptive terms, is a feature of only medium reliability for identification purposes.

More about rough bark types

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Leaves

The mature crown consists of a branched leafy canopy in which flower buds, flowers, fruits and seed are formed. The leaves of a mature crown are adult in most species but in many others, leaf advance is arrested at the juvenile phase and the tree is reproductively mature when in juvenile, not adult leaf. In the development of any eucalypt there is no distinct point at which the juvenile stage changes to the intermediate and the intermediate leaves become adult. The stages are useful although imprecise reference points.Every leaf begins as a minute bundle of cells, whether it is on a seedling or a grown plant. The ultimate functional structure is a mature leaf which can be on a eucalypt plant at any growth stage. This means that there are mature seedling leaves, mature juvenile leaves, mature adult leaves etc. and the term 'mature' must not be used interchangeably with the word 'adult'.In the great majority of eucalypts, the leaves are formed in the following sequence. The first recognizable organ to emerge from a germinating seed is the root which pierces the seedcoat and penetrates downwards. It is usually white and covered with fine hairs. Then an aerial shoot appears and a pair of cotyledons soon unfolds. These are situated on the opposite sides of a 'square' stem (a seedlot will occasionally produce seedlings with cotyledons in threes placed symmetrically around a six-sided stem, but this condition changes to the normal four-sided stem after a few nodes).Above the cotyledons, the true leaves are formed in opposite pairs (see exceptions next paragraph), each succeeding pair being at right angles to the pair below. While the leaves in most species continue to be formed in opposite pairs for the whole life of the tree (this can be checked at the growing tips on a mature crown), from the late seedling to the adult stage the leaves become displaced at their point of attachment on the stem such that they appear to be alternate. In some species, however, the leaf development does not advance to the adult stage, and the crown is composed of opposite leaves for the life of the tree. These may be broad, glaucous in some species e.g. E. pruinosa, setose or scabrid in others e.g. C. dunlopiana, but always juvenile in character. In only a few species is the mature crown composed exclusively of opposite, apparently adult (lanceolate or falcate, green) leaves, e.g. E. doratoxylon, E. erythrocorys, and in some Angophora species, e.g. A. floribunda, A. bakeri.

In a small group of species, after the first two or three pairs of leaves, the stem becomes five-sided and the subsequent leaves form in a 2/5 spiral (e.g. E. oleosa). This is detected by examining the seedling closely. No leaves will be opposite and any two leaves appearing consecutively, one above the other on any leaf-bearing face, will be separated vertically by four other leaves distributed around the other four vertical faces (e.g. E. longicornis). Vertically adjacent leaves will occur on the next leaf-bearing face but one, never the adjacent face. This produces a spiral arrangement of leaves that occurs often in seedlings with very narrow seedling leaves.

A different spiral formation is seen in a small group of Western Australian eucalypts. In these the stem is three-sided and a three-leaved spiral forms in the seedling and persists throughout the life of the tree (e.g. E. lehmannii).

Adult leaves are formed in the crown of the eucalypt plant, be it a mallee or tree, and for species in temperate and sub-tropical areas these leaves probably remain on the plant for some 2 to 3 years although this is not well-known. In monsoonal northern Australia many species are deciduous or semi-deciduous in the dry season which lasts from May to November. Examples are the red gum E. tintinnans and ghost gum C. confertiflora. New leaves form about October.

Adult leaf shape is not much use in identification as most species have lanceolate or falcate (curved) leaves. Leaf shape is a character of low reliability for identification. Leaf size is less useful as many species have leaves about the same size. It is most useful if the species typically has adult leaves much larger (e.g. E. globulus) or much smaller (e.g. E. parvula) than most other species.

Most eucalypt species have adult leaves that are more or less the same colour on both sides. But if an adult leaf is distinctly discolorous (the upper face is darker and greener than the lower), then this is a fairly powerful tool in the discrimination of species. The discoloured appearance of the leaf is a factor of internal structure. The green photosynthetic tissue (composed of cells with chlorophyll-bearing chloroplasts) is near the upper surface of the leaf and is lacking towards the lower surface in this type of leaf. The discoloured appearance is sometimes maintained on fallen dead leaves although somewhat faded. Juvenile leaves in all species are usually slightly to distinctly discoloured, so care must be taken in assessment of colouration. It is thought that the discolorous (or dorsiventral) leaf is an atavism (a reversion to an ancestral form), maintained in species of humid or high rainfall regions that most resemble the probable environment of the rain forest precursors of the eucalypts. It is seen in E. intermedia in eastern Australia and in E. diversicolor of the far south-west of Western Australia. E. cladocalyx of South Australia with its very discolorous leaves is probably a curious survivor of the ancient forests.

Another character not influenced by the environment is the leaf venation and this can be characteristic of certain groups such as the red bloodwoods, e.g. C. hylandii, which have many parallel side veins at a wide angle in a regularly pinnate (feathery) pattern. Other species have generally fewer side veins at more acute angles, the extreme being the Snow Gums (E. pauciflora) and Black Sally (E. stellulata) which have side veins more or less parallel to the midrib. While the angle of the side veins is highly diagnostic for the wide-angled and for the parallel-veined species, it is of little value for angle states between the extremes.

The midrib of a leaf is the primary vein, the side veins are the secondary veins. When these are the only veins apparently present or visible as in E. suberea, there is no reticulation, a strong character in assessing leaves for identification. Tertiary veining links the side veins and forms a reticulum. Some species have quaternary veining and the reticulum is consequently very fine. There is no absolute distinction between these categories and we use the terms: no visible reticulation, sparse reticulation, moderate reticulation, dense and very dense reticulation to describe them.

Eucalypts are notable for their oil glands in the leaves. In a dried specimen the glands can only be seen with reflected light and appear as black dots on the undifferentiated surface. But if a fresh leaf is held up towards the sun and inspected with oblique light through the leaf, the glands will be seen as white or yellowish or green structures, obviously within the tissue of the leaf. This inspection should always be done on the upper surface of the leaf (i.e. holding the lower leaf face towards the sun). This is to ensure comparability between specimens. The leaves of some species look the same when viewed through either face, but most show far more features when viewed with the underside towards the light source.

Many species will show quite different patterns between top-side or under-side viewing. Because most eucalypt leaves turn on their stalks and hang down in the crown, some experience is needed to determine which are the upper and lower faces. This decision is easier to make if the petiole is flattened on the upper surface, as it is in many species. Difficulty will be experienced in other species in determining the upper and lower surfaces of a leaf if the leaf stalk is slender and not flattened. In these instances both sides should be examined and the image with clearer reticulation and glands assessed, as this is the upper surface. Then comparable assessment can be made.

Leaf oil gland categories are usually strong aids to identification as related species tend to have similar patterns.

	The oil glands may be positioned either at the intersections of the veinlets, e.g. E. squamosa, and E. mannensis, where they appear to be star-shaped, being connected from the points by a linear chain of cells (appearing as veinlets) to the tertiary veins.
	In sharp contrast, the glands may appear as 'islands', e.g. E. muelleriana, E. loxophleba, E. marginata, and C. bunites, within the un-veined areas (areoles). 'Island' glands usually appear round although in some species as in the gimlets, e.g. E. salubris, they are very irregular.
	In some species the oil glands are obscure, e.g. E. baxteri which is probably a result of their appearance through thick leaf tissue. In a few species the glands are apparently absent, e.g. E. ovata, and E. todtiana. Apparent presence or absence may be variable within a species and although rare, is seen in E. rigidula whose leaves in southern populations are clearly glandular while populations in more arid regions of the species distribution to the north appear to be glandless.
	While oil glands in the leaves are mostly described as intersectional, island, absent or obscure, another category almost confined to southern Western Australian species is defined as 'abundant' or 'crowded'. In these species, e.g.E. eremophila, E. annulata, and their related species, the oil glands are extremely numerous, round, crowded, often obscuring any venation apart from the midrib. The abundant category of glands is a character of high reliability being mostly confined to the series as represented by the species named above. In eastern Australia, only E. froggattii has similarly crowded glands, making identification easy for trees in natural stands..

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Inflorescences, buds and flowers

Floral structures traditionally hold the defining aspects of species. There are numerous characters associated with them. Basically there are two contrasting forms of floral architecture, the individual flower buds or flowers, and then their arrangement on the branchlets. In most species of eucalypts, the buds occur in clusters on single stalks in the axils of the leaves. The flowers are mostly small and whitish and are not conspicuous in the crown.A very few species have the inflorescences in complex clusters in the leaf axils, e.g. E. michaeliana or on expanded axillary shoots as in some ghost gums, e.g. C. bella, C. tessellaris, and the spotted gums e.g. C. henryi, C. maculata, or in more contracted though still branched axillary shoots as in most ghost gums e.g. C. flavescens, C. polysciada. Four species from eastern Australia, E. fastigata, E. pachycalyx, E. regnans and E. squamosa, form their buds consistently in twin clusters in the leaf axils. In contrast, several large groups, the bloodwoods, some of the boxes and some of the ironbarks, form theindividual bud clusters in large groups at the ends of the branchlets, with few or no leaves. In season these result in conspicuous sprays of flowers on the outside of the crown. A prominent example is the yellow bloodwood (C. eximia) of the sandstone regions of central eastern New South Wales, where the creamy white flower clusters stand out in the forest. In the south-west of Western Australia the widespread marri (C. calophylla) exhibits the same prolific flowering affect, although the southern Red-flowering gum (C. ficifolia) and the commonly cultivated northern Swamp bloodwood, C. ptychocarpa, are the most spectacular of the flowering eucalypts. One species, E. cladocalyx, has ramiflorous inflorescences, with the buds formed on the leafless part of the branchlets well inside the crown. Some ghost gums from northern Australia which are deciduous in the dry season, e.g. C. confertiflora, also appear to flower on leafless branches but these are cases where the floral buds have formed in the axils where last-season’s leaves used to be and the inflorescences are axillary, not truly ramiflorous. Very useful diagnostic information can be derived from these inflorescence patterns, although the structures can be modified by various external factors including predation.A common modification of the basic axillary inflorescence of the eucalypts can be seen in many 'box', 'ironbark' and 'bloodwood' species. In these, bud clusters are formed in the usual way in the axils of developing leaves towards the ends of the annual growth of a branchlet. The arrangement of these leaves and floral primordia is initially decussate, and subsequent uneven elongation of the axis gives the appearance of alternation. Each branchlet terminates with a vegetative bud. In many 'box', 'ironbark' and 'bloodwood' species, this terminal vegetative bud aborts and the now apparently alternate leaf primordia cease their development. The floral primordia however, continue to develop, resulting in a 'leafless' compound inflorescence, terminating the branchlet. Good examples of this are E. paniculata, the common grey ironbark of south-eastern Australia, and C. calophylla, or Marri, common in south-western Australia.The individual bud clusters in most eucalypts can be seen on close inspection to be in symmetrical patterns. A few species have a single bud in the inflorescence, e.g. E. globulus and E. macrocarpa, but the basic numbers in Angophora, Corymbia and Eucalyptus are 3 or 7. In a 3-budded inflorescence there is a central erect bud and two subtending side buds, all in a plane at right angles to the stem, forming a 'cross'. A 7-budded inflorescence has a central erect bud, two subtending side buds plus two buds each subtending the side buds. Bud numbers higher than 7 form by the addition of further pairs of subtending buds, and the number of buds in an intact inflorescence is always odd (never an even number), although very high bud numbers may occur in an obscured pattern. Also, in inflorescences with high numbers, one of a pair of subtending buds may be suppressed, probably by compression in the very young inflorescence which is tightly held within bracts which are soon deciduous. When assessing bud numbers, it is important to take into account the fact that during inflorescence development, which often takes more than a year, individual buds may be lost. This is particularly the case by the fruiting stage when the structures under examination have been exposed for a long time and subject to various traumas including predation and simple death of individual buds.Angophora species and some of the northern bloodwoods (Corymbia setosa and related species) have simple hairs and bristle glands (erect multicellular hairs or setae) somewhere on the inflorescence, peduncle, pedicel, and often on the bud. The buds of Eucalyptus species are glabrous for their whole life cycle.

Angophora flowersInner operculaOperculum scarsInner bud anatomy

Angophora species are readily distinguished from other eucalypts in the flowers, by the presence of petals that have a green keel and white margin, and by persistent hard, woody, green sepals.

All Corymbia species and most Eucalyptus species do not have separate sepals. The exceptions are the species in Eucalyptus subgenus Eudesmia plus a handful of other species. Subgenus Eudesmia is widespread and consists of 21 species. In south-western Western Australia the most famous is the glaucous, juvenile-leaved Tallerack (E. pleurocarpa). In this and related species, the calyx is formed of distinct separate sepals which are usually evident as four small teeth at the top of the hypanthium and usually persist to the fruiting stage. A northern example is the Darwin Stringybark, E. tetrodonta, which in bud has prominent sepals that persist in fruit. Another group of eudesmids have their sepals more or less fused to the corolla right at the apex of the bud and usually are difficult to see. Examples of this are E. baileyana from Queensland and northern New South Wales, E. ebbanoensis from south-western Western Australia, and the orange-flowered tropical trees E. miniata and E. phoenicea.

Other Eucalyptus species having separate sepals are E. microcorys, which has, in early bud development, very small calyx lobes formed at the top of the hypanthium but which fall early and are seldom seen, and the south-western species E. steedmanii and E. mimica where conspicuous sepals are present in bud but are lost on flowering; the Queensland endemic species E. curtisii, E. cloeziana and E. tenuipes, with four small teeth present on the mid line of the bud which persist in E. curtisii but fall early in the other two. In all other species in Eucalyptus and in Corymbia the sepals are united to form the outer operculum or bud-cap.

The individual flower buds have two opercula (bud caps covering the stamens and style) derived from the united sepals (outer operculum) and united petals (inner operculum). In some species of red bloodwood the fusion of the petals to form the inner operculum may not be complete, but careful dissection is needed to see this. A longitudinal section through an almost mature bud can reveal whether or not the inner operculum is divided at all. Similarly, removing the outer operculum but leaving the inner operculum intact can also show whether the inner operculum is partially divided or not. Some examples in the bloodwoods are C. ficifolia, C. zygophylla and C. deserticola. Eucalyptus guilfoylei from the wet forests of southern Western Australia may also possess this feature of the inner operculum.

The flower buds of Angophora (illustrated above) are all very similar within the group of twelve species and subspecies and, apart from size, contain very few discernible characters that distinguish the species. The individual flower buds of the traditional eucalypts, however, contain a great deal of vital information, from the external superficial nature of the wall of the bud to the characters of much higher reliability contained within. One character of absolute reliability (no exceptions have ever been found) is the number of opercula, although this requires experience to assess.

Except for Angophora, the eucalypt flower lacks showy petals. The petals are in fact united very early in bud development to form a cap or a cone-shaped structure that covers the stamens and ovary during their development. This is the inner operculum, which sheds just before flowering when the stamens expand and are almost ready to shed their pollen. (There is a delay in pollen ripening and dispersal to lessen the chance of self-fertilisation and consequent inbreeding). The outer whorl of the floral parts is the sepals which, likewise, unite to form an operculum in most eucalypt species. In the majority of species, this, the outer operculum sheds early in bud development. In doing so, the tissue around the approximate middle of the bud, i.e. where the outer operculum attaches to the base of the bud, dies resulting in detachment. This leaves a scar around the middle of the bud which can sometimes be seen with the naked eye but is best seen with a lens. About 130 species, comprising the Eucalyptus subgenusEucalyptus, have lost the outer operculum altogether in the evolution of the group. Therefore, throughout the development of the bud in these species there is no scar, and the side of the bud is smooth. Some species have two opercula that are fused giving the superficial impression that only a single operculum is present, e.g. E. ochrophloia. The boxes and ironbarks show parallel development in operculum characters. There are two groups, one in which the outer operculum sheds early leaving a scar, e.g. the box species, E. behriana, and the ironbark species, E. paniculata, and another in which the outer operculum is held to bud maturity, e.g. the box species, E. microcarpa and the ironbark, E. sideroxylon. The double opercula and their retention to bud maturity is a diagnostic feature of all the red bloodwoods (Corymbia informal section Rufaria). The ghost gums (Corymbia informal section Blakearia e.g. C. bella) and spotted gums (Corymbia informal section Politaria e.g. C. citriodora) shed the outer operculum during bud development leaving an operculum scar.

Stamens have various forms of orientation in the unopened bud. Some species have their stamens wholly erect. Others have them uniformly inflexed, while others have irregular orientation. Again, the extremes of positioning, i.e. complete inflexion or complete erection, are easy to assess. However there will be 'in-between' species in which the character is difficult to categorise. The attachment of the anther on the summit of the staminal filament is useful diagnostically. Some anthers are basifixed, with the tip of the filament attached rigidly at the base of the anther. This character is seen in the boxes and ironbarks and at its most extreme in E. leptophylla, E. foecunda and related species. In the majority of eucalypts the anthers are dorsifixed, by attachment loosely to the back of the anther, such that it can swivel, i.e. versatile. Some eucalypts have flowers with staminodes, where the outer stamens lack anthers or have reduced, non-functional anthers, e.g. E. calycogona. The openings of the anther for pollen shed (dehiscence) is also an important diagnostic character. Most eucalypts have their anthers either opening by well separatedlongitudinal slits for the more or less cuboid anther, or, as in Eucalyptus subgenus Eucalyptus (e.g. E. regnans) with their more or less kidney-shaped anthers, have the openings oblique and touching near the apex, finally forming confluent slits. The cuboid, freely dorsifixed anther occurs in many western species but the kidney-shaped anther with confluent slits is rare in western monocalypts but is seen in Jarrah (E. marginata) and a few related species. The butterfly-shaped anther in E. guilfoylei is unique in the genus. In a considerable number of species, particularly mallees, e.g. E. oleosa, the anthers are subversatile and open by small roundish pores, either at the sides or the top of the anther.

Within the base of the bud is the ovary and this contains characters of high diagnostic reliability. The most useful is the number of vertical rows of ovules. These can only be seen by dissection and is best done under a microscope but can be done in the field and seen with a 10× lens. Most eucalypts have ovule rows with 4 or 6 vertical rows. Another group has ovule rows consistently in 2s (Eucalyptus subgenus Eucalyptus), while others have rows of 3 or 5, or irregular patterns (bloodwoods and ghost gums).

The top of the ovary is surmounted by the style which terminates in the stigma. The style is usually erect in all but a few species but can be spiral in some e.g. E. albida, making it a useful diagnostic character. In the great majority of species the style arises from the narrowed summit of the ovary. In some bloodwoods, in Eucalyptus series Melliodorae (e.g. E. leucoxylon) and some species of Eucalyptus series Loxophlebae (e.g. E. loxophleba) the style narrows at the base and is inserted into the roof of the ovary. The style is subsequently articulate, not rigid.

The pollen is transported to the stigma from another flower by insects, small birds or small mammals. On germination of the pollen grains, the contents including the vital nuclei migrate by means of a pollen tube down the stigma shaft to the ovary itself where several ovules at the base of the placentae are fertilised. The fertilised ovules mature into the seeds. The ovular structures on the upper part of the placentae are infertile or unfertilised and 'mature' into sterile particles smaller than the seeds known as the chaff.

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Fruit

In bud, the ovary is sunk into the expanded, invaginated top of the pedicel (individual bud stalk) known as the hypanthium. The side walls of the ovary are usually fused to the inner wall of the hypanthium such that they appear as one structure. Following fertilisation, the stamens fall from the flower, the style surmounting the ovary usually sheds, and the remaining structure becomes woody and matures into the fruit. The fruits of eucalypts, commonly called the gumnuts, are thus a compound structure of supporting tissue, the hypanthium, and the ovary. The rim of the fruit comprises the scar or circular 'platform' where the operculum was attached, then on the inner side, the narrow or broad ring of tissue that bore the stamens, and finally a band of tissue that links the rim with the ovary roof. This last tissue is the disc, derived from the nectary in the flower. It may descend vertically to the ovary and line the inner wall of the hypanthium as in the bloodwoods and ghost gums, or cross horizontally to the ovary roof, e.g. E. regnans, or be raised and ascend to an uplifted ovary roof, e.g. E. tereticornis. Some western species have a further development of the disc, e.g. in E. coronata and related species, in which the disc extends over the valves such that only the extreme tips of the valves are exposed.

Throughout the three genera fruit shape is difficult to categorise with certainty. One very distinctive fruit form, however, is seen in a few species endemic to southern Western Australia. In these, the numerous individual fruits in a single cluster are fused by the walls of the hypanthium from the time of bud formation onwards. The fused buds mature into a large, hard, woody cluster that is instantly recognisable, as in E. lehmannii. These fruit are said to be syncarpous.

These fruits were originally considered to be so distinctive that on the discovery of the species, E. lehmannii was thought to belong to a different genus and was given this status in the newly coined name, Symphyomyrtus, meaning 'fused myrtle'. Later the fused character was considered to be somewhat superficial and the species was placed in the genus Eucalyptus. Fusion of organs is easily recognized and of great value in species recognition. Fusion of parts occurs elsewhere in the genus in other organs, e.g. opposite pairs of juvenile leaves of E. uncinata and the staminal filaments of E. synandra.

For western species another useful aid to identification is found in part of the subgenus Eudesmia. The buds and fruit of many of the Eudesmia species are square in cross-section, the sepals being conspicuous on the rim at the tips of the sides of the square. 'Square' fruit are also seen in the widespread E. calycogona, and E. prolixa, which is endemic to the goldfields of Western Australia. This is an interesting convergent character as the two groups are quite unrelated. Curiously the square fruit is also seen in some box species, clearly so in E. froggattii, and less obviously so in E. petraea and E. ochrophloia,and some ironbark species, e.g. E. tetrapleura. The large urceolate fruits of the bloodwoods (e.g. C. calophylla) might also be regarded as quite distinctive fruits, but the great variety of fruit shapes seen throughout the eucalypts makes fruit shape a character for which words are rarely ideally descriptive. Further, categorizing fruits into separate shape descriptions is difficult given natural variation and general gradation between shape definitions/categories. Size of fruit is also very variable and within a species size may be affected by seasonal conditions, such as drought, and also by the numbers of fruit that may develop in relation to available resources. Therefore the shape of the fruit, should be used carefully in identification. Similarly when using fruit dimension, choose average sized fruit for the specimen, not extremes.

The roof of the ovary is 'free' and exposed and separates into valves which spread and allow the seeds to shed. The mature but unopened woody ovary may be deeply sunk in the fruit and not actually be visible below the rim; be more or less level with the rim; or in other species, the roof of the ovary may be raised above the rim. This latter character is seen most conspicuously in E. coolabah and the ovary is scarcely inferior, i.e. it is not well sunk into the hypanthium as it is in the vast majority of eucalypts.

Of considerable value in identification are the valves of the fruit. Their number and exsertion can be characteristic of species and species groups, e.g. the red gums in which the ovary splits into 3 or 4 valves which are usually strongly exserted. The number of valves in the majority of eucalypt species is usually 3 or 4 with a few exceptions where the numbers are up to 6 or occasionally 7, as in the big-fruited E. aquilina and E. preissiana subsp. lobata. In one tropical species, E. phoenicea, the valve number is reduced to 2.

There is one valve character that requires qualification. In the large series Subulatae and to a lesser extent the series Falcatae, the ovary is sunk well below the rim of the hypanthium. The style surmounting the ovary splits into three or four needle-like structures (the number of the ovary chambers and therefore the valves). Despite their fragility they persist as the valves spread in dehiscence, and are conspicuously emergent above the rim of the fruit. Ultimately they break off but their early persistence is a feature of these two taxonomic series and may be regarded as a character of medium to high reliability bearing in mind that the 'valves' are finally lost from the fruit.

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Seed

One useful feature that is not immediately available in the field is the seeds. Until the vascular connections between the individual fruits held in the crown and the parent tree are broken, the valves will not open. Otherwise, eucalypt fruit are held on the branchlets often for years. Seed from detached fruits, however, can be ready for inspection after about 24 hours by placing unopened fruits in a paper bag where they dry out quickly and shed the seeds and the thinner chaff particles. There is a great number of seed forms and these can be seen either with the naked eye or with a lens. Fortunately, related species have identical seeds and the character is therefore one of high reliability. Because words do not adequately convey the actual seed shape for most species, experience is needed to educate the user who will ultimately find the seeds to be an invaluable aid in discriminating species and groups of related species. We suggest the following terms as a guide.

	Flattened or saucer-shaped The seed is somewhat flattened with a distinct upper (dorsal) and lower (ventral) side. The ventral side may be somewhat concave, with the hilum in the centre. Angophora and the ghost gums have this type of seed.
	Pyramidal or obliquely pyramidal The seed is pyramid shaped with a relatively smooth or lacunose, flat or rounded dorsal side. The ventral side is usually ribbed, wrinkled or angled and is surmounted by a narrowed face at the summit where the hilum is (e.g. E. acmenoides). This is the seed type in most of the monocalypts although there is a great amount of variety in their seed form. Perhaps the most extreme seed shape in the monocalypts is seen in some western endemics, e.g. E. buprestium and E. todtiana, in which the body of the seed is small in comparison to the grossly extended curved lateral wings.
	Boat-shaped The seed is elongated and strongly keeled dorsally with a large, conspicuous hilum in the middle of the flat underside. The edges may be flanged or narrowly winged. C. gummifera and C. calophylla notably have this type of seed.
	Cuboid The seed is chunky, often with a smooth, shiny or somewhat granular, sometimes slightly rounded, dorsal side. The hilum is situated on a smaller terminal face separated from the dorsal side by the side walls of the seed. These walls are often angular. The chaff is usually similar to the seed, but somewhat smaller and lighter coloured (e.g. E. seeana).
	Ellipsoidal with terminal wing The flattened-ellipsoidal body of the seed occurs at the lower end (considering the disposition of the ovule on the placenta in the intact bud), with a transparent wing as long as the body of the seed at the top end. The wings may be seen, just before seed shed, emerging from the top of the ovary. The hilum is usually positioned near one edge not far from the start of the wing. The wing is purely a descriptive morphological term and the structure has no apparent aerial function. Most of the bloodwoods have this type of seed (e.g. C. chippendalei).
	Pointed at one end The seed is somewhat flattened, usually rounded at one end and pointed at the other. It may be described as teardrop-shaped (e.g.E. conica).
	D-shaped The seed is roughly disc-like with a short straight side and a longer connecting curved side. The hilum is towards the narrowed end (e.g. E. porosa).
	Spherical The seed is more or less spherical (e.g. E. desmondensis).
	Ovoid or depressed-ovoid The seed is ovoid or elliptical in outline but flattened with the hilum on the more or less concave ventral side (e.g. E. aggregata). A large number of species have this type of seed. Examples are the section Maidenaria, endemic to eastern Australia, in which the dorsal surface is often lacunose, and a large number of mallees occurring across southern Australia. These seeds have very smooth dorsal sides with two or three shallow longitudinal grooves. This is seen particularly in series Subulatae and Calycogonae.
	Obliquely elongatedThe seed is like a narrowly drawn-out pyramid with the dorsal face curved and prolonged into a thin 'tongue'. The terminal face is small, flat and oblique on the seed with the hilum in the middle. The sides are ridged (e.g. E. burracoppinensis).
	Linear The seed is narrow and elongated, with a very small dorsal surface, long sides and terminal hilum (only E. curtisii).

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Pith

Once a specimen has been taken, a very handy and accessible feature is the pith of the branchlets. In the southern half of the country about half of the dry country mallees have a line of clear-coloured or brown oil glands in the pith usually visible to the naked eye, while the remaining species have a white or uniformly coloured, undifferentiated pith. This character is easily assessed in the field by pulling a side branchlet away from the main axis. Pith glands, if present, will be most conspicuous at the nodes so this is where the character should be sought for its presence or absence. The developmental origin of these discrete rounded pith glands is unknown.Pith gland absence or presence is a character of moderately high, not absolute, reliability and is a particularly useful character to help identify South Australian and southern Western Australian species.This, however, is not true in all areas of the country. Many, perhaps all, species of Corymbia (bloodwoods and ghost gums) andAngophora have obvious short or elongated duct-like spaces in the pith of the branchlets. These are not as easily seen in the field as the discrete round pith glands but can be seen with a 10X lens, especially at or near the leaf bases. These ducts may be filled with a sticky brown substance (?oil or resin) or the contents may be crystalline but they are not round pith oil glands as described above. Only one species of ghost gum, C. kombolgiensis has been observed with discrete round brown pith oil glands. In EUCLID we have scored this character when we have seen it in Corymbia and Angophora species, however when identifying these species it should be used with caution or avoided.^ TOP

A brief history of Eucalyptus, Angophora and Corymbia

Although eucalypts must have been seen by the very early European explorers and collectors, no botanical collections of them are known to have been made until 1770 when Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander arrived at Botany Bay with James Cook. There they collected specimens of C. gummifera and later, near the Endeavour River in northern Queensland, they collected E. platyphylla; neither of these species was named as such at the time.In 1777, on Cook's third expedition, the botanist David Nelson collected a eucalypt on Bruny Island, southern Tasmania. This specimen was taken to the British Museum in London, where it was named Eucalyptus obliqua by the French botanist, Charles-Louis L'Héritier de Brutelle, who was working in London at the time. He coined the generic name from the Greek roots eu and calyptos, meaning 'well' and 'covered', in reference to the operculum of the flower bud. This organ protects the reproductive structures during their development and sheds under pressure from the emerging stamens at flowering. The name obliqua was derived from the Latin, obliquus, meaning 'oblique', describing a leaf base where the two sides of the leaf blade are of unequal length and do not meet the petiole at the same point. In the publication of Eucalyptus obliqua, L'Héritier recognized in the generic name a feature common to all eucalypts - the operculum. In his choice of specific name, he recognized not only a characteristic feature of E. obliqua but one that occurs in most other eucalypts as well. E. obliqua was published in 1788 and coincides with the date of the first official settlement of Australia.Between 1788 and the beginning of the nineteenth century several more species of Eucalyptus were named and published. Most of these were by the English botanist James Edward Smith and most were, as might be expected, trees of the Sydney region. They include the economically valuable E. pilularis, E. saligna and E. tereticornis, each of which also occurs in Queensland, with the distribution of E. tereticornis extending to the island of New Guinea.Also in this period the genus Angophora was published, in 1797, by the Spanish botanist Antonio Jose Cavanilles, based on specimens collected at Port Jackson by Frenchman Luis Née in 1793. Née was botanist with the Alejandro Malaspina expedition. Various authors have considered Angophora to be sufficiently distinctive that it should be maintained as a separate genus. Others believe it is a 'eucalypt'. We recognize both Eucalyptus and Angophora in EUCLID, reflecting results of recent research and usage by the general community.The nineteenth century was a period of extensive land exploration. This resulted in the discovery of many new eucalypts and their subsequent naming by several of the great botanists in Australian history, particularly Ferdinand von Mueller, whose work on eucalypts contributed greatly to the first comprehensive account of the genus in George Bentham's Flora Australiensis (1867). Bentham never visited Australia, but his account is the most important early systematic treatment of the genus Eucalyptus.Some earlier authors had constructed classifications, but the distinctions they used - for example, shape of the operculum and the juvenile leaf arrangement - were only applicable to far fewer species than were known to Bentham; they were of little use when applied to a much larger number of species. One useful study before that of Bentham, however, was Mueller's description of different bark types (Mueller, 1858). These still have relevance in distinguishing between, for example, groups that shed or retain dead bark and, in the latter case, between ironbark and other types of rough bark.Bentham divided the genus into five series whose distinctions were based on characteristics of the stamens, particularly the anthers. Categories within each series were based largely on the leaves, and on bud and fruit shape. He was obviously working with limited botanical specimens, and field characters were not available to him unless communicated by others from Australia.Mueller, working in Australia, devised another classification based on the anthers (Mueller, 1879-84), while Joseph Henry Maiden (1924) elaborated on the anther system, which was taken even further by William Faris Blakely (1934). By this time, classification based on the anther system had become too complex to be workable.Other more consistent characters have been sought in recent years to aid in the construction of classifications. Of these, leaf venation, the nature of bristle glands, the morphology of the seeds, nature of the operculum and the structure of the inflorescence are fundamental. More sophisticated equipment has usually enabled the examination of these leaf and floral structures early in and during their development. Similarities thus recognised usually provide the evidence of natural affinity between species and groups of species. In other words, botanists became better equipped to decide whether these similarities noticed in different species and groups were the results of inheritance from a common ancestor or if they had independently evolved, in many cases as an adaptive necessity such as lignotuber formation or salt tolerance.A comprehensive but informal classification of all known eucalypt species was published in 1971 by the late L.D. Pryor and L.A.S. Johnson. It comprised seven major groups based on the association of many morphological characters and suggested by the breeding incompatibility between them. Their system has been subjected to close scrutiny in the past 30 years. Many improvements to this classification were proposed by Johnson himself and by others, although he never formally published a system of classification.Briggs and Johnson (1979) contributed a major advance in the botany of the whole family Myrtaceae, in which they outlined for the first time a comprehensive analysis of inflorescence structure in all genera and its indication of evolutionary trend.In Volume 19 of the 'Flora of Australia', all eucalypts published to 1988, were comprehensively treated (Chippendale, 1988). This work includes 513 species of Eucalyptus arranged in 92 series, many of which were published formally in this volume. This is not a structured classification as there are no subgenera or sections. The work is of particular value for its typology and erection of many new taxonomic series.The decade after 1988 saw the application of advanced methodology in the study of the genus Eucalyptus, especially in phylogenetic analyses of taxonomic series (e.g. Ladiges et al., 1987; Hill and Johnson, 1995) and in the use of molecular techniques in the estimation of infra-generic relationships within the genus and between cognate genera (Ladiges et al., 1995; Ladiges and Udovicic, 2000).

Treatment of Trees Damaged By Construction

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 07:27:00 +0000

Treatment of Trees Damaged By Construction

The processes involved with construction can be devastating to the surrounding trees if no measures have been taken to protect them. The visible injuries such as broken branches and wounds to tree trunks are only the beginning. It is the damage to the root systems that often result in tree loss.

In an ideal situation, an arborist is called in to consult in the planning stages of construction. Trees can be preserved if the appropriate measures are taken soon enough. Unfortunately, it is usually when the first signs of decline appear that help is sought.

There are some remedial treatments that may save some construction-damaged trees, but immediate implementation is critical. If you have trees that have been affected by recent construction, consult a professional arborist promptly. Your arborist can assess each tree for viability and potential hazards, and recommend treatments.

Damage Caused By Construction

physical injury to the trunk and crown
soil compaction in the root zone
severing of roots
smothering roots by adding soil
split and broken branches
new exposure to wind and sunlight

Inspection and Assessment

Because construction damage can affect the structure and stability of a tree, your arborist should check for potential hazards. A hazard check may involve a simple visual inspection, or instruments may be used to check for the presence of decay. If a hazard is found, sometimes it can be reduced or eliminated by removing an unsafe limb, pruning to reduce weight, or installing cables or braces to provide structural support. An often overlooked method of reducing hazards is to move objects that could be hit or to limit access to the hazardous area. If there is doubt about the structural integrity of a tree or the hazard cannot be adequately reduced, it should be removed. Although the goal is to preserve trees whenever possible, that goal must not supersede any question of safety.

Treating Trunk and Crown Injuries

Pruning

Branches that are split, torn, or broken should be removed. Also, remove any dead, diseased, or rubbing limbs from the crown of the tree. Sometimes it is necessary to remove some lower limbs to raise the canopy of a tree and provide clearance below. It is best to postpone other maintenance pruning for a few years. It used to be recommended that tree canopies be thinned or topped to compensate for root loss. There is no conclusive research to support this practice. Thinning the crown can reduce a tree’s food-making capability and may stress the tree further. It is better to limit pruning in the first few years to hazard reduction and the removal of deadwood. Do not top the trees.

Cabling and Bracing

Trees growing in wooded areas are usually not a threat to people or structures. Trees that are close to houses or other buildings must be maintained to keep them structurally sound. If branches or tree trunks need additional support, a professional arborist may be able to install cables or bracing rods. If cables or braces are installed, they must be inspected regularly. The amount of added security offered by the installation of support hardware is limited. Not all weak limbs are candidates for these measures.

Repairing Damaged Bark and Trunk Wounds

Often the bark may be damaged along the trunk or major limbs. If that happens, remove the loose bark. Jagged edges can be cut away with a sharp knife. Take care not to cut into living tissues.

Wound Dressings

Wound dressings were once thought to accelerate wound closure, protect against insects and diseases, and reduce decay. However, research has shown that dressings generally do not reduce decay or speed closure and rarely prevent insect or disease infestations. Most experts recommend that wound dressings not be used. If a dressing must be used for cosmetic purposes, use just a thin coating of a nontoxic material.

Irrigation and Drainage

One of the most important tree maintenance procedures following construction damage is to maintain an adequate, but not excessive, supply of water to the root zone. If there is a drainage problem, the trees will decline rapidly. Improper drainage must be corrected if the trees are to be saved. If soil drainage is good, be sure to keep the trees well watered, especially during the dry summer months. A long, slow soak over the entire root zone is the preferred method of watering. Keep the top 12 inches moist, but avoid overwatering. Avoid frequent, shallow watering. Make sure surface water drains away from the tree. Proper irrigation may do more to help trees recover from construction stress than anything else you could do.

Mulching

One of the simplest and least expensive things you can do for your trees may also be one of the most effective. Applying a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch such as wood chips, shredded bark, or pine needles over the root system of a tree can enhance root growth. The mulch helps condition the soil, moderates soil temperatures, maintains moisture, and reduces competition from weeds and grass. The mulch should extend as far out from the tree as practical for the landscape site. (If the tree had a say, its entire root system would be mulched.) Do not apply the mulch any deeper than 4 inches, and do not pile it against the trunk.

Improving Aeration of the Root Zone

Drilling Holes/Vertical Mulching

Compaction of the soil and increases in grade both have the effect of depleting the oxygen supply to tree roots. If soil aeration can be improved, root growth and water uptake can be enhanced.

A common method of aeration of the root zone involves drilling holes in the ground. Holes are usually 2 to 4 inches in diameter and are made about 3 feet on center throughout the root zone of the tree. The depth should be at least 12 inches but may need to be deeper if the soil grade has been raised. Sometimes the holes are filled with peat moss, wood chips, pea gravel, or other materials that maintain aeration and support root growth. This process is called vertical mulching.

Radial Aeration

More recent research has shown promising results with another method of aeration called radial aeration. Narrow trenches are cut with a compressed air gun in a radial pattern throughout the root zone. These trenches appear similar to the spokes of a wagon wheel. It is important to begin the trenches 4 to 8 feet from the trunk of the tree to avoid cutting any major support roots. The trenches should extend at least as far as the drip line of the tree. If the primary goal is to reduce compaction, the trenches should be about 8 to 12 inches in depth. They may need to be deeper if the soil grade has been raised.

The narrow trenches can be backfilled with topsoil or compost. Root growth will be greater in the trenched area than in the surrounding soil. This treatment can give a tree the added boost it needs to adapt to the compacted soil or new grade.

Vertical mulching and radial trenching are techniques that may improve conditions for root growth. If construction-damaged trees are to survive the injuries and stresses they have suffered, they must replace the roots that have been lost.

What About Fertilization?

Most experts recommend that you do not fertilize your trees the first year after construction damage. Water and mineral uptake may be reduced because of root damage. Excessive soil salts can draw water out of the roots and into the soil. In addition, nitrogen fertilization may stimulate top growth at the expense of root growth. It is a common misconception that applying fertilizer gives a stressed tree a much-needed shot in the arm. Fertilization should be based on the nutritional needs of trees on a site. Soils can be analyzed to determine whether any of the essential minerals are deficient. If soil nutrients are deficient, supplemental fertilization may be indicated. It is advisable to keep application rates low until the root system has had time to adjust.

Monitoring for Decline and Hazards

Despite your best efforts, you may lose some trees from the construction damage. Symptoms of decline include smaller and fewer leaves, dieback in the crown of the tree, and premature fall color. If a tree dies as a result of root damage, it may be an immediate hazard and should be removed right away. Examine your trees for signs of possible hazards. Look for cracks in the trunk, split or broken branches, and dead limbs. Watch for indications of internal decay such as cavities, carpenter ants, soft wood, and mushroomlike structures growing on the trunk, root crown, or along the major roots. If you detect any defects or suspect decay, consult an arborist for a professional assessment. It is prudent to have your trees evaluated periodically by a professional. You should also inspect your trees for signs of insects or diseases. Stressed trees are more prone to attack by certain pests. Talk to your arborist about putting your trees on a program of Plant Health Care (PHC). Such a program may help identify and treat problems before they become a threat to the life of your trees.

Strelitzia reginae

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Wed, 03 Aug 2011 02:12:00 +0000

Strelitzia Reginae: This South African genus is a member of the Musaceae family.An evergreen perennial that will reach 1.5m—2m in most situations. It is grown for its spectacular flowers and are used all over the world for cut flowers.

Origin: South Africa, Eastern Cape of Good Hope, and Northern Natal.

Location: Reginae grows with other plants along riverbanks, coastal bush and clearings. They do not like heavy frosts. They like a mild climate with evenly distributed rain during the year.

Flowering: The orange petals and blue flowers on long stems will bloom most of the year. The warmer the climate, the longer period they will bloom.

Cultivation: The soil should be kept moist during the growing season. Plants that are planted in the ground will require a good fertiliser with a balanced high nitrogen base and, where possible, trace elements are beneficial. Water well in summer, less in winter. To fertilise pots, give a slow release fertiliser.

Culture: Strelitzia Reginae needs full sun to light shade with warm temperatures, when planted in pots keep them crowded for the best amount of blooms. In very cold climates it is better to grow them in pots that could be moved indoors when freezing temperatures are expected.

Propagation: Strelitzia are propagated by division or by seed. Seed is very erratic and may take up to 2 years to germinate (commercially, it only takes a few weeks). The plant is ornithophilous, which requires nectar-eating birds to pollinate its flowers. Each flower has male and female organs, but are not receptive to each other. In the wild the Sun Bird, which is native to South Africa, pollinates the flowers. Pollination occurs when the bird rests on the blue petals to sip the nectar. This in turn causes the blue petals to open, which coats the bird's feet and breast with pollen, which is deposited on the sticky part of the next Strelitzia flower they touch. The seed pods develop over the next six months and produce a pod with three sections of black seeds with bright orange arils.

Effective Composting

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 23:20:00 +0000

The Zeal Group

What is composting?
Composting is nature’s own recycling program. In time, organisms will break down the ingredients listed below into rich, dark crumbly compost - nature’s own nutrient-rich fertiliser. How does composting work and how long does it take? Natural composting, or decomposition, occurs all the time in nature. Home composting generally takes two months or more. The more you turn and mix the contents - adding air in the process - the more rapid the composting action will be. The right conditions include the right ratio of nitrogen to carbon - equal amounts of ‘greens’ (kitchen scraps) for nitrogen and ‘browns’ (fallen leaves and woody material) for carbon the right amount of water (feels like a damp sponge) good drainage (to remove excess moisture) enough oxygen (turned often) What can you compost at home? Vegetable and fruit scraps Fallen leaves Grass clippings Finely chipped branches Used vegetable cooking oil Tea leaves, tea bags Coffee grounds Vacuum cleaner dust Egg shells Sheets of newspaper Paper bags Shredded paper What can’t you compost? Metal, plastic, glass Meat and dairy products (attract rodents) Large branches Bones Plant bulbs (need specialised treatment) Droppings of meat-eating animals (e.g. dogs) Grubs in your compost? Sometimes in compost bins there are many segmented brown grubs. These are the larvae of the beneficial Soldier Fly. They are not pests, nor will they cause health problems. Mulches Mulches can prevent up to 73% evaporation loss and they are one of the cheapest and easiest ways to make the most of water in the garden. The best mulch is a well-rotted compost which will also improve the soil structure and stimulate the biological life of the soil. Place the mulch away from the trunk to prevent collar rot. Do not apply mulch more than 75-100 mm in thickness or water may not easily penetrate into the soil.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Lace Mites, Spider Mites

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Mon, 01 Aug 2011 05:20:00 +0000

Azalea Lace Bugs

The Azalea Lace Bug (Stephanitis pyrioides), an insect originating from Japan, is a signicant pest of azaleas and rhododendrons in many regions of the world where these plants are cultivated. The bug especially attacks plants growing in sunny, exposed situations.
Symptoms of lace bug attack
The feeding activity of every stage of the lace bug life cycle produces a widespread grey-whitish/silvery mottling on the upper surfaces of the leaves, similar in colour but coarser in texture to that caused by spider mites. Adult and juvenile lace bugs feed on the undersurfaces of azalea and rhododendron leaves. The mottling is usually so severe that leaves that have been attacked are permanently disfigured. Leaves will die and fall from the plant well before their time. Sticky brown patches or ‘varnish’ (excretory products of the lace bugs) appear on the undersides of the leaves. The Azalea Lace Bug is widespread throughout Australia.
Life cycle
The lace bug has at least two (and possibly four) generations per year in Australia. Adults reach 4-6 mm in length. They have clear, heavily veined wings - hence the insects’ common name. Juvenile lace bugs are wingless, spiny, have long antennae relative to their body length, and have a black and tan mottled colouring giving them an overall dark appearance.
There are probably five nymphal instars. Nymphal moult skins often remain stuck to lace bug varnish on the undersides of leaves. Lace bugs overwinter in the egg stage, hatching when conditions improve for them in the sping. Eggs are inserted into the mid-vein on the underside of the azalea or rhododendron leaf as they are laid. They have a brown protective covering which hardens on contact with air.
Control
Lace bugs are particularly difficult to control. There is currently no known effective biological control agent (e.g. a parasitic wasp). There are some pesticides that are registered for the control of this pest.

Call 1300 882 787
Servicing the Blue Mountains
and Western Sydney
ACN 127 048 015
www.propertymaintenance.net.au

- Posted by Zeal Property Maintenance P/L from iPad.

Fire wood hard wood free delivery

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Thu, 02 Jun 2011 04:48:00 +0000

- The Zeal Group
For the best prices across Sydney and free delivery go to www.firewood.net.au

Location:All over Sydney

How to Compost Effectively

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Fri, 24 Dec 2010 09:41:00 +0000

The Zeal Group

What is composting?
Composting is nature’s own recycling program. In time, organisms will break down the ingredients listed below into rich, dark crumbly compost - nature’s own nutrient-rich fertiliser. How does composting work and how long does it take? Natural composting, or decomposition, occurs all the time in nature. Home composting generally takes two months or more. The more you turn and mix the contents - adding air in the process - the more rapid the composting action will be. The right conditions include the right ratio of nitrogen to carbon - equal amounts of ‘greens’ (kitchen scraps) for nitrogen and ‘browns’ (fallen leaves and woody material) for carbon the right amount of water (feels like a damp sponge) good drainage (to remove excess moisture) enough oxygen (turned often) What can you compost at home? Vegetable and fruit scraps Fallen leaves Grass clippings Finely chipped branches Used vegetable cooking oil Tea leaves, tea bags Coffee grounds Vacuum cleaner dust Egg shells Sheets of newspaper Paper bags Shredded paper What can’t you compost? Metal, plastic, glass Meat and dairy products (attract rodents) Large branches Bones Plant bulbs (need specialised treatment) Droppings of meat-eating animals (e.g. dogs) Grubs in your compost? Sometimes in compost bins there are many segmented brown grubs. These are the larvae of the beneficial Soldier Fly. They are not pests, nor will they cause health problems. Mulches Mulches can prevent up to 73% evaporation loss and they are one of the cheapest and easiest ways to make the most of water in the garden. The best mulch is a well-rotted compost which will also improve the soil structure and stimulate the biological life of the soil. Place the mulch away from the trunk to prevent collar rot. Do not apply mulch more than 75-100 mm in thickness or water may not easily penetrate into the soil.

Cycads

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Mon, 29 Nov 2010 15:20:00 +0000

This article is written for those who have a problem with their cycad plant, want to avoid the common maladies of growing cycads or would like general sago palm care tips. In this article we discuss the problems that we’ve seen frequently and advise as to potential remedies that seem to help. It is meant to stimulate the reader into inspecting his plants for yellow leaves, brown tips, rot, etc., and coming up with therapeutic modalities for his plants. The better one gets at this, the better grower he will become.

What’s Wrong?

Inspect your plant

In growing cycads, it is very important to make a habit of looking at your plants. Inspection is key to good growing of cycads. They will usually demonstrate to you that they have a problem. However, it helps to know what to look for while inspecting. This can lead to your diagnosing the problem, or at least let you know something is wrong.. Once you establish what the problem is, you can set out to solve it. Described below are some of the things that you can look for while inspecting your cycads. Be aware that different climatic areas may see different problems than we've seen here in Southern California. However, most of the problems discussed below are quite universal to all growing areas. The problems of insects and pests is not dealt with here and will be discussed in a future article.

Encephalartos transvenosus, suspected of rot.

Bottom rot on Encephalartos caudex.

You see visible rot on your caudex or roots: Sometimes one might see rot on the trunk of a cycad. Or, you might see it on inspecting a caudex in pumice that you are trying to root out. Obviously, this requires you're bare-rooting the plant to inspect the roots and base of the caudex. Unfortunately, rot can hide and be deceptive, even starting in the most hidden, deepest roots. With rot, the first thing one notices is that the caudex or root tissue is soft. Rot manifests itself as a dark tan to brown/black color in the caudex or trunk . Rotting roots tend to be soft, darker colored, and lacking secondary roots coming out. This is opposed to light, fleshy healthy roots . Usually the rot involves the lower caudex in it’s subterranean area or the roots. Rot can cause cycads to decline or possibly die if it is not addressed. If you find rot on your caudex, use a sharp, sterile cutting tool (knife or saw) to remove the rot. Cut the rot away until you have only hard tissue that is whitish or light tan in color. Note: in some cases you may not find whitish or light tan tissue; in such cases, cut back to hard tissue. Be careful, if you cut the caudex too much you risk the plant dying. If the rot is on the roots, one needs to individually remove involved roots, dissecting up to clean, healthy tissue. Below are guidelines to the treatment of rot after you've dissected it away.

Encephalartos longifolius, with crown rot forming multiple heads.

Caudex rot on Encephalartos showing soft tissue.

Rooting hormone brand Take Root; a combination of root stimulant and fungicide.

General guideline in the treatment of tissue rot:

1) After you have cut away the rot (trunk or roots), soak the plant in both a fungicide and root stimulant. First soak your plant in a fungicide, like Daconil, for 30 minutes. Always follow manufacturer's instructions about usage and safety on any chemical. Next you will want to soak your plant in a root stimulant, like DipN’Grow, vitamin B1 or B complex (most liquid root stimulants will work), for 30 minutes. The reason why I recommend soaking the plants for 30 minute intervals is because it allows the caudex to absorb both the fungicide and root stimulant into its tissue
2) Sprinkle a powder root stimulant, like Take Root, onto the base of the caudex and/or the root(s).

Pure pumice.

3) You should now seal the cuts with an agricultural tar. This assists in keeping the cut surface clean and also helps to protect from future rot. Melted wax preparations can also be used.
4) We use new clean pumice (or scoria) to re-establish the plant. It is a dry medium and you are less likely to incur rot or other problems. This typically means submerging the treated area of trunk or roots directly into the pot of pumice. If pumice is not available, coarse sand can work. Use a pot that is not overly large for the caudex.
5) The time it takes to reestablish your plant can be three to six months or even longer. Failure will be evidenced by the progression of the rotting tissue and failure to establish leaves or roots. You may wish to bare root the caudex for inspection from time to time. One must repeat the cycles above if rot is rediscovered.

Caudex that hasn't done anything in a long time.

The top of your caudex is soft
This is an ominous sign. It usually means the caudex is in the process of or about to collapse and die. It is usually due to rot and the plant is usually near death. One would typically see the leaves turn brown and fall downward . They may shrivel. On grasping and pinching the crown of the caudex, it will be soft and compress inwards. It might actually collapse beneath the pressure of the fingers. This often means the demise of the entire plant. If the softness to touch is minimal, quickly treat the crown with a drenching of fungicide, and repeat on a regular basis. If the crown is collapsing, one can dissect away the crown of the caudex until healthy tissue is found. Often this is unsuccessful. The mechanics of doing this are discussed elsewhere, but one would be working from the top of the caudex downward. If one is lucky, new suckers will emerge from this dissected level and the plant will survive. More often then not, this plant is bound for the garbage can and is terminally ill.

Encephalartos, rotted and collapsed caudex.

E. transvenosus, inspecting caudex for rot and noting softness to the crown of the plant.

E. transvenosus, rotted caudex. Note it falls apart with ease. This caudex is dead.

An unrooted caudex does nothing
We’ve found that a healthy caudex can take anywhere from six months to two years to establish adequate roots for survival. Some species are faster than others. For instance, Encephalartos horridus established quite quickly while Encephalartos inopinus gets roots much more slowly. Sometimes the latter will even throw leaves prior to establishing roots. This certainly makes one apprehensive, but it is not always a fatal observation. However, sometimes months and years go by and nothing happens; no roots, no leaves. The first thing to do is to inspect the caudex. Feel it in your hands. Is it firm? Is it still heavy in the hand? Does it feel light? Firmly press the sides of the caudex. Does it collapse somewhat, especially toward the crown? When a caudex goes bad and visual inspection shows nothing, rot is often most evident near the crown of the plant or sucker. Are the cataphylls loose? Pull on them gently. Do they easily pull out? Try float testing the caudex. Unobserved central rot can make the caudex float. If everything seems OK and you find nothing, all you can do is place the sucker back in pumice and wait.
A rooting caudex throws leaves before it roots
This is always a worrisome problem. It is never the ideal scene, but sometimes happens and can still result in a healthy rooted plant. We always like to see vigorous roots before a throw of leaves. This can occur just because of the natural cycle of the offset. Let’s say it was about to throw leaves and you removed it for propagation. It will continue to leaf out regardless of being removed. Other times it happens six or twelve months after sucker removal and yet before rooting. In either case, it poses a risk to the new caudex. It is generally agreed that there is a risk of desiccation and death of the caudex as the leaves lose water and the caudex has minimal ability to absorb water without roots. Also, the leaves don’t have a nutritional flow except from the caudex. The throw of new leaves might have used up the energy reserves of the caudex.
Once observed, the problem is what to do. Remember to inspect for and treat any rot. One may treat with fungicide and certainly place the caudex back in pumice. But, what of the leaves; remove them or leave them in place? There is no perfect answer for this, but most growers would remove all or part of the leaves thrown. In actual fact, usually these leaves will abort soon after throwing and seldom do they persist as healthy leaves. Sometimes the collapse of these leaves is rapidly followed by a collapse of the caudex. Yet, if they survive, could they not be able to offer some photosynthesis and creation of energy? For this reason, some would say remove all of the leaves except a few and cut those remaining leaves in half. Once repotted back into pumice, carefully avoid watering the crown on such a plant.

Encephalartos caudex showing crown rot, evident as soft scales near the crown pull apart.

Encephalartos, healthy caudex but no roots and no leaves as of yet.

New leaves shorter than new ones.

Leaves are shorter than normal
If your leaves emerge shorter than they did the last time, there can be a few problems:

a) If you are acclimating your cycad (working it out into sun), the new leaves may be shorter than those which flushed in a shadier environment. This is not a problem; your cycad will grow out of it.
b) If this is the first throw of a recently established sucker or a recently transplanted cycad, short leaves can occur. This will change with successive throws.
c) A throw of leaves in the coldest part of the winter can stunt their length. You might see this on a recently imported and established caudex whose "biological clock" is set to another hemisphere.
c) Leaves emerging shorter can also be an indication of a cultural problem. This could be nutritional requiring treatment with fertilizer or microelements. It could be from a poor soil mix or poor soil aeration. Or, it could be a symptom of caudex or root rot. If you think it is indicated, carefully remove that plant from its pot and wash away the excess dirt with a hose. Inspect the roots or caudex for rot. With a plant in the ground, gently rock the cycad to see if it is loose in the ground, suggesting root rot. You can also check the trunk of your cycad to see if it is soft in exposed areas. If rot is found, treat as described elsewhere in this article.
Keys to good culture.

How to avoid problems

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. It might even be that it’s worth many pounds of cure with cycads. Below are some simple rules to follow.

Inspection

This is one of the most important things you can do. Follow the guidelines mentioned previously and practice observation, especially watching for problems or failure to thrive. Usually you can find the problem and fix it.

Growing the right cycads

Growing the right cycads for you area is important. This will involve your talking to someone or doing a little research on your own, but it can make a huge difference in your garden. You will find that some cycads want a tropical environment where some want a dry one. Fortunately for us in Southern California, we can grow most cycads. Our limitations here are with those cycads with the most tropical demands. If you live in a temperate or colder area, tropical Zamias might prove impossible without a greenhouse. You might also find that South African species of Encephalartos grow better than those from Central Africa. Also, very humid climates such as in Miami or the Tropics might find arid growers like Encephalartos horridus prone to rot. This might require special preventative cultural techniques. For the greatest chances of success, get species right for your area.

Drainage, drainage, drainage

Regardless of your soil type, always maintain good drainage. The soil should never be waterlogged. Sand, pumice and gravel help promote drainage. Very fine sand, leafy organic material and clay-type topsoil slow it down. If it is impossible to offer good drainage in the garden, mound up you cycads above the soil line so you can control the water content of the soil.

Soil

Either make or amend you soil to create good drainage. See our article on cycad soil for specific formulas. Remember that the organic components of cycad mix can break down, resulting in “muck” at the bottom of the pot or an impediment to drainage. Repotting is the remedy for this problem. This is important for container culture. In the garden consider amending with sand. If you can’t buy or obtain materials for a good cycad soil, think about using a cactus and succulent mix. These might suffice.

Adequate sun

We have seen many promising cycads stall because they have lost their sunlight. This is usually the result of competitive more rapidly growing plants. If a species wants sun, remember to maintain it. Loss of sun will lead to a plant that just sits there and doesn’t do much of anything.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing is an important part in growing any plant. The key is to know what kind, how often and how much you should fertilizer you should use. We recommend using a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote, using an N/P/K ratio that is 3-1-2 or 3-1-3. An example of a good fertilizer might therefore be 18:6:18. You should fertilize once every three to four months, depending on your formulae and release rate. I always recommend that you use a little less fertilizer than what is suggested on the bag because you don’t kill plants with too little fertilizer, but you do with too much.

Watering

Watering is an important part of growing cycads, because there’s hardly a cycad that likes to have wet feet. Get use to inspecting your garden soil or the soil in he containers. Don’t let it stay too damp. Drying out near the surface is preferable on most species. Typically, watering frequencies for temperate weather is about once, or possibly twice a week during hot weather. During the winter, once every week or two is usually adequate. For desert type environments, adjust the frequency depending on the soil moisture content. For tropical environments, try to avoid conditions where the plant and soil are continually damp. Mounding might be necessary. Or, overhead shielding during the rainy season might be needed. Also, regardless of where you are, water the garden or container soil, not the crown of the plant. Repetitive watering of the crown will lead to rot. This means that frequent overhead sprinklers can be a problem. Ground bubblers on timers can be great for the cycad garden. This also explains why climates with daily monsoon seasons can lead to difficulties with some species.

Ventilation

In a greenhouse environment, ventilation to provide adequate air movement around your cycads will help prevent mold and rot. Stationary oscillating fans or intake/exhaust fans can help accomplish this. Poor ventilation often causes mold and scale problems in the greenhouse.

Prophylactic treatment

Get into the habit of inspecting your plants. If you see fungal problems or rot, treat it early. Fungicides can also be used prophylacticly to avoid problems if you are anticipating them. This would especially apply to plants grown in a humid greenhouse.

Oscillating large fan in the greenhouse.

In this article we have covered many of the basics in protecting your cycads. The great thing about it is that cycads really do not take much maintenance at all. You could say that they almost thrive on neglect. Just be careful when you water, don’t fertilize too much and make sure that your cycad is in a quick draining soil and has adequate light. If you do the things discussed above, you should become a successful cycad grower.

- Posted by The Zeal Group

Curl grub

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sat, 09 Oct 2010 20:04:00 +0000

General information
Scarab beetle larvae, also known as white curl grub (or cockchafer in southern states), are a serious lawn pest. The signs of infestation are easily confused with other pests, diseases and disorders in turf and present as a general yellowing, then browning, followed by the death of lawn.
Overview
Pest characteristics
In subtropical areas, lawn injury is commonly seen from November through to January. The most common causal agent is African black beetle (Heteronychus arator), although a number of native and non-native scarabs look similar and produce comparable damage. These include pruinose scarab (Sericesthis geminata) and Argentine scarab (Cyclocephala signaticollis). If in doubt, have the pest formally identified.
Third instar African black beetle larvae grow to 20-25 mm in length before pupating in the soil. They have an orange-brown head capsule. Oval-shaped, shiny black adults, 12-15 mm long, emerge during February, feeding on stems just below ground level. They are less active through winter and mate in spring after the female has reached sexual maturity.
Only one generation is produced each year. Deceptively, different larval stages are sometimes found in the soil. This is mainly due to eggs being laid at different times.
Correct names
White curl grub, scarab beetle larvae, lawn beetle larvae or cockchafer are the correct common names for the juvenile stage of lawn beetle. However, white curl grub is sometimes incorrectly referred to as 'lawn grub' and 'witchety grub'. 'Lawn grub' is a colloquial term for surface-dwelling caterpillars such as sod webworm, army worm and cutworm, which become moths. The true witchety grub is the wood-feeding larva of two families of giant Australian moth.
Symptoms
White curl grubs have a characteristic 'C' shape and three pairs of legs. They live underground, protected by soil. Animals such as magpies, crows, wood duck and other carnivorous birds, bandicoots and even foxes enjoy this food source. Damage from animal feeding can be the first indicator that the insects are present.
Some white curl grubs are parasitised by the yellow (hairy) flower wasp (Campsomeris tasmaniensis) in southern Queensland. This 30 mm-long hairy wasp with yellow and black banding on its abdomen can also act as an indicator of the presence of beetle larvae.
The late second instar and third instar phases of the beetle’s lifecycle are the most damaging to turf. These larger larvae are voracious feeders on roots and underground stems. The adults also feed on turf, but cause much less damage.
What often differentiates white curl grub damage from other types of lawn dieback, such as that caused by drought or water repellent soils, is that the lawn starts to slip or roll up like a carpet. If this symptom is detected it is time to bring out a large corer or shovel and dig for beetle larva.
A problem infestation is generally regarded to be 25 or more white curl grubs per square metre. If fewer larvae are present, healthy turf is likely to outgrow the minor damage it will sustain. Under heat and drought stress, the problem may be exacerbated by poor rates of regrowth and smaller numbers of larvae can cause significant damage.
Host range
African black beetles establish in a wide range of grasses including green couch, blue couch, soft leaf buffalo grass and kikuyu. The insect has a broad range of dietary preferences and larvae will attack, among other things, strawberries, pineapples, potatoes and grape vines.
Detection
Control measures are most effective when insect activity is monitored. One way of doing this is to moisten a hessian bag or piece of carpet and place it on the lawn overnight. In the morning the adults can be collected and disposed of. Check for adult beetles from late spring to early summer when egg laying commences.
It is thought that garden lighting may be helpful in attracting and detecting adult beetles. However, this may have the unwanted side effect of increasing egg laying activity in adjacent lawn areas. Turning off unnecessary garden lighting may reduce pest numbers.
Biological controls
Some householders encourage carnivorous birds into their garden to control the pest. However, if the white curl grub problem is severe, bird feeding can cause extensive damage in its own right. Free range poultry will also keep pest numbers in check.
A bucket of soapy water made with a biodegradable detergent can be poured onto affected areas, encouraging the larvae and beetles to move to the surface where they might be picked off by birds.
Effective control of later larval stages is only achievable with insect killing nematodes, known as entomopathogenic nematodes (ENs). They are active only against specific soil-dwelling insects, safe to handle and safe for plants. These nematodes were commercialised in 1999 after extensive research by the CSIRO Division of Entomology in Canberra.
ENs for African black beetle are raised in a laboratory and shipped in a dormant state. When received, the ENs must first be hydrated in water, and then lightly stirred to avoid settling. The suspension can then be watered onto a pre-moistened lawn. This needs to be done in the late afternoon because ENs are sensitive to the sun’s ultra-violet rays.
Upon release, the nematodes sense their target, move to it, and enter their prey through openings in its body. They then release bacteria that feed on the inside of the larva. The bacterium nurtures the nematode population, which builds up to the point where the larvae dies, rupturing to release a new generation of ENs into the soil.
Chemical control
Read garden chemical product labels carefully prior to purchase. Make sure the product is registered for use on home lawns for lawn beetle. There are three stages of the lawn beetles’ lifecycle for which a chemical may be registered. Use the chemical on the correct part of the lifecycle, strictly following the directions on the label.
Chemical control measures are most effective on newly hatched larvae. The presence of adult beetles is a cue to check the soil for early stages of the lifecycle, which are vulnerable to imidacloprid (Confidor) and thiamethoxam (Meridan) applications.
The organophosphate, chlorpyrifos (various lawn beetle and lawn grub formulations), is registered for the control of lawn beetle larvae and adults. In practice, the chemical is only effective on larvae if it infiltrates the soil and reaches the insect. It does not work well on larvae with high body fat. In addition, chlorpyrifos is highly toxic to the user and needs to be handled with caution.
Prior to treatment, water the lawn well to bring the larvae closer to the surface. Penetration of chemical will also be enhanced by mowing, then raking out thatch, before treatment.
The adult beetle is easier to control. Other chemicals registered for the control of adults have the active ingredients beta-cyfluthrin, bifenthrin, cyfluthrin (Baythroid) and diazinon (Pennside). Synthetic pyrethroids (such as bifenthrin and cyfluthrin forms) are safer to handle than organophosphates such as diazinon and chlorpyrifos. Pennside has been micro-encapsuled, reducing its toxicity to users.

Call 1300 882 787
The North Shore
ACN 127 048 015
www.propertymaintenance.net.au
Posted by The Zeal Group

Gardening Turramurra

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

After winter tilling Garden beds

Tilling and Soil Health

Optimum Water Content for Tillage

Good bugs and bad bugs. Why we have so many bad bugs in Sydney

Effective Composting

Tibouchinas

Bird's Nest Ferns -- Growing Asplenium Nidus Ferns

Dogwood bush

Growing Almond Trees

Plants And Potassium

Using Potassium And Potassium Deficiency Plants

Effects Of Potassium On Plants

What Is In Potassium Fertiliser

Greensand, which is available from most nurseries, will also add potassium to you garden. Because potassium deficiency in plants can be hard to spot through looking at the plant, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested before adding more potassium.

Cankers On Trees

Pruning Roses

For example:Is your rose once-flowering or remontant (repeat flowering)? What is its normal growth habit - climber, tall, medium or short bush? Do you get frosts in your area? This is very important for the timing of pruning.

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Treatment for Tree Diseases

Common Tree Diseases and Treatments

Dutch Elm Tree Disease

Fruit Tree Diseases

Sycamore Anthracnose

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Treatment for Tree Diseases

Common Tree Diseases and Treatments

Dutch Elm Tree Disease

Fruit Tree Diseases

Sycamore Anthracnose

Top dressing for your lawn at the beginning of the growing season

Why Topdress?

Tools

Preparation

Doing the Job

Pruning citrus trees sydney

Cuttings

Eucalypts

Introduction

Evolution and distribution

Identifying eucalypts

Inspection of specimens

Habit

Bark

Leaves

Inflorescences, buds and flowers

Fruit

Seed

Pith

A brief history of Eucalyptus, Angophora and Corymbia

Treatment of Trees Damaged By Construction

Strelitzia reginae

Effective Composting

Lace Mites, Spider Mites

Fire wood hard wood free delivery

How to Compost Effectively

Cycads

Curl grub

Greensand, which is available from most nurseries, will also add potassium to you garden.
Because potassium deficiency in plants can be hard to spot through looking at the plant, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested before adding more potassium.

For example:
Is your rose once-flowering or remontant (repeat flowering)?

What is its normal growth habit - climber, tall, medium or short bush?

Do you get frosts in your area? This is very important for the timing of pruning.