Gardening Tutorials

Testing Soil Texture

2008-07-12T14:11:00.003-07:00

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What you need:

Quart glass jar
Dishwashing detergent
Soil

Knowing the make-up of your soil can be very helpful in determining its cultural requirements. Take several soil samples from the area in question and mix them all together in a bucket. Remove any rocks or other debris.

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Next, fill a quart glass jar 2/3 with water.

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Add enough soil to raise the water level to the rim of the jar. Screw the lid securely on and shake the jar vigorously to mix the soil and water together. Once the contents are thoroughly mixed together, add a little dishwashing detergent to the jar to help separate the soil particles.

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Let the jar sit overnight. The next day the individual components of the soil should be separated. The bottom layer will be sand, the middle layer will be silt and the top layer will be clay. By noting the approximate percentages of each soil component you can get a rough idea of the basic make-up of your soil.

Testing Soil Drainage

2008-07-12T14:11:00.001-07:00

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What you need:

Coffee can with the bottom cut out
Watering can

Good soil drainage is a requirement for most garden plants. This simple method allows you to test your soil drainage. Cut the bottom out of a large coffee can and push it about an inch or two into the soil.

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Fill the coffee can with water and time how long it takes to drain.

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If it takes over an hour to drain, this indicates the area may have poor drainage. If you have poorly draining soil, it may be a good idea to either choose another site for the plants or use a raised bed to facilitate good drainage.

Solarizing Soil

2008-07-12T14:10:00.002-07:00

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What you need:

6 mil clear plastic
Shovel
Meat thermometer

Solarizing is a great way to ensure that you are planting into disease and weed-free soil. Mark off the area to be treated, and dig a trench about 6" deep around it.

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It's important to soak the ground thoroughly to a depth of about three feet before laying down your plastic. Lay the plastic over the area and secure one side of it by covering the plastic that is lying in the trench with soil.

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Now go to the opposite side of the plastic, and pull it tight over the entire area.

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Fill that side of the trench in with soil, and continue tightening the plastic on the other two sides.

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Ideally you want the plastic to be in direct contact with the soil. It's also best to solarize your soil during the hottest part of the year. Leave the plastic down for at least six weeks and even the most persistent of perennial weed seeds should be killed.

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A temperature of 120 degrees is sufficient for sterilizing the soil. A common meat thermometer does a great job of checking the temperature. Just poke it into the soil as far as it will go, and you should get an accurate reading.

Soil Testing

2008-07-12T14:10:00.001-07:00

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Following a couple easy steps will ensure that you get a representative soil sample of whatever area you are testing. The more uniform the samples you take, the more accurate the results will be. There are tools made specifically for taking soil samples, but if one is not available a bulb planter works just as well. The samples should be taken from the top four to six inches of soil.

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Take several different samples from all around the area in question. Mix the samples together in a bucket. Remove any stones, roots, or other debris from the soil.

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Most local Cooperative Extension Services can provide you with a kit for soil testing as well as process the results. If not, you may be able to find a private laboratory in your area. Most kits will provide a bag or box to place the sample in.

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Another alternative is purchasing a soil test kit from a garden center. Store bought test kits are easy to use and cost effective.

Shredding Leaves

2008-07-12T14:09:00.004-07:00

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What you need:

Lawn mower
Rake
Tarp
Hose

Shredded leaves make an excellent mulch and, left in a pile, they soon break down to form leafmold, a weed-free compost that plants love. You can buy a chipper/shredder to shred your leaves or you can use a rotary mower. Begin by raking the leaves into a thick carpet about 6-8" deep. (If you try to mow a pile of leaves, the mower will stall.)

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Mow along the outside of the patch of leaves with the chute aimed toward the center. Continue to mow back and forth until the leaves are shredded to the desired size. Shredding dry leaves creates a lot of dust, so wear a disposable mask or respirator to keep from inhaling airborne particles.

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Rake the shredded leaves onto a tarp. You don't have to rake up every leaf fragment, but you don't want to leave enough behind to suffocate the turf.

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Drag the tarp to a bare spot off the lawn and dump the leaves. Continue this process until you've shredded all your leaves (or as many as you think you need).

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If you want the leaves to break down into leaf mold, water the pile after you deposit each load. If you'll use the leaves as mulch, simply pile them up and leave them over winter. Put the mulch (2-4" thick) on the garden in spring. If you put the shredded leaves on the garden in fall, strong winter winds may strip them away.

Setting Up A Worm Bin

2008-07-12T14:09:00.003-07:00

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What you need:

Vermicomposter
Bedding (coco-fiber, Canadian sphagnum moss, shredded newspaper)
Newspaper
Red wiggler worms
Kitchen scraps

You've heard about composting with worms (known as vermiculture), but have you tried it? It's an effective way of composting kitchen scraps. Earthworm castings are considered the most beneficial of all soil amendments. Here's how to set up a tri-level worm composter called the "Can O' Worms." While it's only one of many ways to "vermicompost," the basic principles apply universally.

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First prepare the bedding. The Can-o'-Worms composter comes with coco-fiber as bedding. You can also use sphagnum moss, sawdust, or shredded newspaper. Soak the bedding in warm water for 10-15 minutes, then squeeze out excess moisture.

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Next, lay wet newspaper on the bottom level of the composter. This will keep the first layer of bedding from falling through the bottom grate.

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Spread the bedding over the newspaper.

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Add a layer of soil or compost on top of the bedding.

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Add the worms to the bin. Worms are sensitive to light, so if you leave the top off of the bin for 15 minutes all the worms will burrow into the bedding. Special worms called "red wigglers" are required for vermicomposting. Regular earthworms will not work.

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Once the worms have migrated into the bedding, add some kitchen scraps to the bin.

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Cover the kitchen scraps with more damp newspaper, and the lower bin is ready. Place the second bin on top of the first. When the bottom bin fills up with worm castings, add more bedding and kitchen scraps to the second bin. The worms will move freely between the two, consuming whatever scraps you put in the second bin. Eventually the second bin will fill up, and you can start working on the third bin. By this time, most of the worms will be in the second bin, so you can empty the first bin and move it to the top.

Reading A Fertilizer Bag

2008-07-12T14:09:00.001-07:00

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The fertilizer bag label contains much useful information. Here are some tips on how to read the label.

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At the top of the label will be the description of the brand name of the plant food or fertilizer. Directly under that will be three numbers. Each number will be separated by a dash such as 5-10-5. These three numbers stand for the percentages of nitrogen(N), phosphorus(P), and potassium(K) found in the fertilizer. Let's look at each component in more detail.

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The first number, nitrogen (N), will usually be further subdivided into the different forms of nitrogen found in the particular fertilizer. Nitrate nitrogen is a very soluble and rapidly available form of nitrogen, ammoniacal nitrogen is less soluble and slower to be available, and insoluble nitrogen is very slow to release. Nitrogen is the most frequently needed element in most garden soils. A plant without enough nitrogen shows pale yellow leaves and lacks vigor.

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The next number on the fertilizer bag stands for phosphorus (P). This element is critical for most aspects of plant growth but is particularly important for producing healthy roots and maturing crops. Deficiencies are difficult to detect but they sometimes show up as red stems.

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The third number is potassium (K). It is also called potash. It is used in large quantities and is necessary for the general health of all plants. It's very important for the structural strength of plants.

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After the three major fertilizer components are given, many times elements in smaller quantities, called trace or minor elements will be listed. These elements are generally required in lesser quantities. They include Iron(Fe), Magnesium(Mg), Copper(Cu), Zinc(Zn), Boron(B), Sulfur(S), and Calcium(Ca).

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Lastly, most fertilizer bags will list the materials that the different elements are derived from. Before amending outdoor soil with fertilizers, you should first test the soil to determine what it's lacking. Additionally, different plants have different needs so what type and how often you fertilize can vary greatly.

Proper Digging Technique

2008-07-12T14:08:00.002-07:00

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Employing the proper technique when digging will make working in the garden a much more enjoyable experience, not to mention a lot less tiring. First, position your shovel so that the shaft is resting on your back leg. This will distribute the weight of the material over your legs and not your back. Your thumbs should be facing upward and pointing towards the blade.

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Keeping your back straight and the shovel resting on your leg, rock forward. All the movement should be in your legs and hips.

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Once you have a shovel full of material, rock backwards in the same motion.

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To clear the shovel, lower your back arm and pivot your hips in the direction that you wish to dump the material. The shaft of the shovel should be pivoting on your back leg. The most important things to remember when digging is to keep your back straight and to keep the handle of the shovel resting on your leg.

Mulching A Flower Bed

2008-07-12T14:08:00.001-07:00

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What you need:

Organic mulch
Shovel or garden fork

Spreading mulch on the soil in your garden is one of the nicest things you can do for your plants, and it looks great, too! Mulch is a layer of material put on top of bare soil to moderate soil temperatures, retain moisture, and suppress weeds.

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Organic mulches improve soil fertility and build good tilth. Some examples are tree leaves, garden compost, grass clippings, chipped wood or bark, pine needles, seed or nut hulls, aged manure, and even seaweed. Experiment, compare, and decide what you like best.

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If your garden is large, buy in bulk for substantial savings. Many companies will deliver. Spread a tarp on the ground and have the pile of mulch dumped onto the tarp. This makes for easier cleanup when you're done mulching.

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Mulch a new bed right after you set out the plants, and then at least once a year thereafter to maintain a depth of 2-3 inches. It's easiest to do this in the winter or early spring when perennials are dormant and their tops are cut down. Wait til the ground freezes in the winter before applying mulch. If you wait too late in spring, you have to work carefully around the tender, emerging growth.

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Spread the mulch evenly around the flowerbed. Do so by dumping it directly out of the bag, by shovel, or with a garden fork. In tighter areas, or around smaller plants, spread it by hand from a bucket.

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Cover the soil between plants but be careful not to pile mulch against the stems or over the crowns of the plants themselves. If you accidentally dump some mulch on a plant, use your hands to pull it away.

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Too much mulch can cause rots, odors, host insect and rodents, and cause nutrient imbalances in the soil. A layer 2-3" deep is plenty. Over time, the layer of mulch disappears. Earthworms, freeze/thaw cycles, and other natural processes help to incorporate it into your soil. Compensate by topping it off with a new layer when needed.

Making Manure Tea

2008-07-12T14:07:00.004-07:00

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What you need:

32 gallon trashcan w/ lid
Manure, either dried or composted
Burlap sack
Twine
Water soluble fertilizer (optional)

Manure tea is a wonderful booster for your roses and it's easy to make. All you need is a plastic garbage can, some manure, and a burlap sack. The one drawback to manure tea is the smell. However, after you see how much your roses appreciate it, the smell will be easier to deal with. Fill the sack about half way up with manure. Composted manure can be used, or if you have a cow pasture near by dried cow chips work just as well.

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Tie off the top of the sack and place it in the garbage can. Fill the can up with water and cover it with the lid. If you wish, add some water-soluble fertilizer to the tea for an added boost for your plants. If you do add supplemental fertilizer, add it at one quarter the recommended dosage.

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Fill the trash can with water.

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Place the lid on the can and wait. It will take about two weeks for the tea to steep. Water your roses with half a gallon per bush once a week and they will love you for it. Manure tea is not exclusively for roses. Just about any plant will benefit from occasional doses.

Making Alfalfa Tea

2008-07-12T14:07:00.003-07:00

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What you need:

32-gallon plastic trash can w/ lid
Alfalfa meal or pellets
Epsom salts

Rose bushes love alfalfa tea. It's easy to make and organic, so you don't have to worry about overdoing it and burning your prized plants. A 32-gallon plastic garbage can works perfectly for brewing the tea.

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Add 15 cups of alfalfa pellets or meal to the trash can.

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Next, add 2 cups of Epsom salts to the tea. The salts supply the rose with a constant source of the trace element magnesium sulfate.

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Fill the can with water, then place the lid on the trash can and wait. The mix will be ready in 4 to 5 days. Use 1 gallon of mix per standard rose bush and 1/3 gallon on minis. When the tea is gone, you can reuse the same alfalfa once more. Simply refill the can with water and add more Epsom salts.

Double Digging

2008-07-12T14:07:00.001-07:00

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Dig a trench 2 spades deep and reserve the soil in a wheelbarrow. Add at least 4 inches of compost to the first trench and mix in. Dig a second trench 2 spades deep directly behind the first, and deposit the soil in the first trench. Add compost to the second trench. Once you reach the end of your flowerbed, deposit the soil from the wheelbarrow in the last trench.

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Single or simple digging, is similar to double digging. Instead of digging 2 spades deep, dig a trench 1 spade deep. Add a thick layer of compost and dig it in. Dig another trench behind the first, depositing the soil from the second trench into the first. Continue until your entire flowerbed is cultivated.

Digging In Compost

2008-07-12T14:06:00.002-07:00

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What you need:

Compost
Garden fork or similar cultivating tool
Rake

Use a spade to spread at least 4 inches of compost evenly over the surface of the soil. It's very important to first cultivate the soil either with a rototiller or a hand cultivator.

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Fork in the compost, mixing it thoroughly with the surrounding soil to a depth of about eight inches.

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After the compost is sufficiently mixed in, rake the soil surface to a fine tilth.

Different Types Of Fertilizers

2008-07-12T14:06:00.001-07:00

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The gardener is often confronted with a broad array of different types of fertilizers. One important thing to remember about fertilizers, in general, is that more is not necessarily better. Less, more often, is preferable to large doses all at once. Let's look at some of the various types.

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General-purpose fertilizers are the most readily found and economical. They are usually quickly available to the plants soon after they are applied and watered in. They typically do not last very long, so they must be reapplied several times during the growing season. If carelessly used, they can burn the plants. Never apply to dry soil.

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low-release fertilizers are an effective way to fertilize plants. These materials release fertilizer over a long period of time, generally several months or more. The speed at which they release nutrients is mostly dependent upon soil temperature. These fertilizers are very useful for gardeners who only want to fertilize once in a growing season. They rarely burn the plants. Their only disadvantage is that they can be relatively expensive.

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Water-soluble fertilizers are instantly available to the plant. They are frequently applied with a sprinkling can and are absorbed by both the roots and leaves. They're most useful when a quick effect is desired. Water-soluble fertilizers are rapidly used up by plants, so in turn they must be applied on a regular basis.

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Natural organic fertilizers are usually slow-release so they do not burn plants. The plant will only use as much of an organic fertilizer as it needs, so they are safe. On a pound-per-pound basis they are generally more expensive than the inorganic fertilizers.

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Fertilizers combined with herbicides or insecticides are most commonly found with lawn care products. They can be labor saving but also can be wasteful and not very effective because the best times to fertilize plants and to apply weed control or insect control may not be the same.

Choosing A Composter

2008-07-12T14:05:00.002-07:00

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All you need to make compost is organic matter, air, and water. Dump fallen leaves, grass clippings, and garden debris in an out-of-the-way corner, and you'll probably have crumbly black compost in a year or two without any effort on your part. If you'd rather make compost more neatly and efficiently, you can build a bin or purchase a composter.

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Homemade bins are typically made out of wood, wire, or cinder blocks. They are designed so air can reach the compost from all sides and so the gardener can turn and remove compost. Many people build bins in pairs or threes, collecting the raw materials and beginning the composting process in the first bin, then turning the compost into the second (and perhaps third) bin for "finishing."

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Of course, ready-made bins are available. They are generally made of heavy-duty (often recycled) plastic and are designed to admit air and water but exclude four-legged scavengers, which may be a problem if food scraps are added to the pile.

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Compost tumblers and mixers are designed to produce finished compost quickly and with minimum effort. Instead of adding organic matter over time, you fill these so-called batch composters all at once (preferably with a mixture of both leafy green materials and dry brown materials). Frequently rotating the barrel ensures that the organic matter is well aerated, speeding decomposition.

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Worm composters are very effective in composting kitchen waste. Each pound of worms consumes a pound of kitchen waste a day. Vermicomposting bins don't stink, so you can keep them indoors. The end product is worm castings, an excellent soil additive. Special worms called Red Wigglers are required for vermicomposting.

Building A Wire Compost Bin

2008-07-12T14:05:00.001-07:00

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What you need:

Medium gauge galvanized wire fencing
Wire cutters
20-gauge utility wire

This compost bin was constructed using medium gauge galvanized wire fencing. It holds roughly 1 cubic yard of material, which is about the minimum volume needed for efficient composting.

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Unroll the fencing on the ground, and measure an 11' length. It may be necessary to weight down the fencing to keep it from rolling up again. Use heavy-duty wire cutters to cut the fencing to the proper size.

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Stand the fencing up on end, and overlap 3"-4" of the material. Tie the ends of the fencing together with 20-gauge utility wire to finish the bin.

Building A Soil Sieve

2008-07-12T14:03:00.004-07:00

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What you need:

One 8' length of 2"x4" lumber
One 8' length of 1"x2" lumber
Wire mesh
Permanent marker
Hand saw or chop saw
Drill
1/8" drill bit
Eight 3" wood screws
Tin snips
Staple gun
Hammer
Sixteen 2" finishing nails
Two utility handles

A soil sieve is handy for starting seeds or mixing soil. It's quite easy to build one yourself and you will find many uses for it.

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To make the frame, you need two 18" and two 15" lengths of 2x4 lumber. Cut the lumber to size with a hand saw or a chop saw.

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Arrange the 2x4's to make an 18" square. Drill two 1/8" pilot holes through each end of the 18" boards. Fasten the 2x4's together with 3" wood screws.

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Now you're ready to cut the screen for the sieve. The intended function of the sieve determines what size mesh you should use. For preparing soil to start seeds, use mesh with an 1/8" opening. For removing stones and other debris from your soil, the mesh openings can be as wide as 1/2". Measure the screen by laying the wood frame over the mesh. Trace its outline with a permanent marker. Cut the mesh with tin snips about 1/4" inside of the marked line. This eliminates any overhang of the material.

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Lay the screen over the frame and fasten it in place with a staple gun. Use several staples on each side.

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Next, cut two 18" and two 15" lengths of 1x2 lumber. Arrange these pieces on top of the 2x4 frame, sandwiching the screen between the boards. Nail the 1x2's to the frame with 2" finishing nails.

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To finish the sieve, attach utility handles to opposite sides of the frame.

Building A Pallet Compost Bin

2008-07-12T14:03:00.003-07:00

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What you need:

4 pallets
Chicken wire
Utility wire
Staple gun
Wire cutters
Bungee cords or rope

This compost bin was constructed using four old pallets and some chicken wire. If you are composting large amounts of material, you may want to make an additional bin for finished compost.

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Lay the pallets on the ground, butting them snugly against one another.

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Using a staple gun, secure one end of the chicken wire to the first pallet. This will hold the chicken wire in place as you unroll it.

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Unroll the chicken wire over all four pallets. Staple the chicken wire to the pallets. The more staples you use, the sturdier your contraption will be.

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Fold each of the outer pallets onto the inner pallets. This will make it easy for you to stand the pallets upright.

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Stand the pallets up on end. Unfold the pallets so they form a box

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The only corner not connected with chicken wire should be lashed together with rope or bungee cords. This way, when you need to remove compost from the bin, the rope removes easily to make a door. The corner that serves as the hinge of your door should be loosely connected with utility wire.

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The two corners opposite the door should be lashed together tightly with utility wire to finish the bin.

Basic Soil Mixing

2008-07-12T14:03:00.001-07:00

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What you need:

Large plastic garbage can with a lid
Plastic bucket for soaking the peat moss
2 parts fine peat moss
1 part good garden loam or compost
1 part perlite

Choose and gather the various potting soil components. The materials you use will depend on what you will be planting. Some plants, like cacti and succulents, prefer soils that drain more rapidly. Others, like ferns, require a potting material that retains more moisture. This tutorial will show you how to make a general purpose potting formulation that will work for most plants. It consists of one part good garden loam, one part perlite and two parts sphagnum peat moss. The addition of soil into an otherwise soil-less mix is intended to provide some nutrient value for the plants.

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Any time you use garden soil, pasteurize it before adding it to your mix. Pasteurization is accomplished by baking the material in the oven in a coffee can or similar container at 180 degrees F. for 30 minutes. This kills most harmful bacteria and micro-organisms present in the soil.

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Pre-moisten the peat moss before mixing it with the other potting materials. Add water to the peat moss and mix thoroughly.

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After the garden soil has been pasteurized and peat moss has been pre-moistened, you're ready to begin the blending process. Measure out the correct ratios of the components by using a clean pot as your measuring device. Layer the components in a plastic garbage can. Add one pot of sphagnum moss, then one pot of perlite, then one pot of soil and repeat until all of the material has been added. Adding the soil components in layers makes it much easier to mix them together.

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Use a long wooden stake to mix the materials together. Alternately, tape the lid on the garbage can and roll it around on the floor. Leave the lid on the garbage can until you are ready to use the soil.

Adjusting Soil pH

2008-07-12T14:01:00.004-07:00

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What you need:

Soil pH test kit
Limestone to raise pH
Aluminum sulfate or sulfur to lower pH

pH (potential Hydrogen) is the measure of the general acidity or alkalinity of a soil. If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, needed nutrients can be 'tied up' in the soil and not available to the plants. Nutrient deficiencies can result.

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A purchased pH test kit will give you an idea of your soil's pH. You can not 'look' at a soil sample and determine its pH. For more exact results, you should submit a soil sample to your local or state Cooperative Extension office or a soil testing lab. A pH of 7 is neutral. Anything lower than 7 is acid (sour) and anything higher (sweet) is alkaline. A slightly acidic soil of 6 to 6.5 is ideal for most plants. It is important to know the pH preferences of the plants you are growing!

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If your soil is too acidic (below 6), limestone can be added. To increase the pH by 1 unit you need to apply ground limestone at the rate of 35 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. on sandy soils and up to 80 lbs. per 1000 square ft. for clay soils. Large applications should be split in half - apply 40 lbs.now, then make the second application 2-3 months later.

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If your soil's pH is too high, aluminum sulfate or sulfur can be added to lower it. See your soil test results for specific amounts to apply. Most organic mulches have an acidic reaction which can also be helpful in lowering soil pH.

Transplanting A Shrub

2008-07-12T14:01:00.003-07:00

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What you need:

Shovel or spade
Burlap or blanket

We tend to think of shrubs as permanent fixtures in the landscape, but as long as they are not too large, they can be moved from one location to another. The best time to transplant a shrub is when it's dormant - anytime between late fall and early spring, provided the soil is neither frozen nor sodden.

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The first step is to cut a circle around the base of the plant, cutting straight down through soil and roots with a sharp spade. The larger the shrub, the larger the circle should be.

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After you cut a circle, dig soil out from around the circle, making a crater with the plant sitting upright in the middle. You are creating a root ball similar to those on balled and burlapped trees and shrubs in garden centers.

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When you've dug all around the root ball, undercut it with the spade to free the plant from the soil.

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Lift the plant out of the hole by its root ball, add a quick diaper of burlap or a blanket to carry it to its new home. If the root ball is big and heavy, get help. As you move the plant, try to keep the root ball intact. For replanting instructions, see our tutorial on Planting A Ball And Burlap Shrub.

Removing A Shrub

2008-07-12T14:01:00.001-07:00

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What you need:

Loppers
Shovel

Occasionally it is necessary to completely remove a shrub. Start by trimming off all the foliage and branches using loppers.

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Dig a trench around the shrub's crown. The depth required depends on how far the roots penetrate the surrounding soil. Usually 1-2' is deep enough.

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Once the trench is dug, wedge your shovel under the root ball and pry it from the ground. Recruit a helper when lifting a larger shrub.

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Shake off as much soil as possible and dispose of the roots. If you plan to add the roots and foliage to your compost pile, run them through a chipper first to speed decomposition.

Pruning Summer Blooming Shrubs

2008-07-12T14:00:00.000-07:00

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What you need:

Pruners and loppers

Prune summer blooming shrubs in early spring (March-early April) before or just as new leaves unfold (prune springtime bloomers right after they flower) to encourage vigorous new stems from the woody framework. The new growth will bear flowers later in the year

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Butterfly bush (shown here), hardy hibiscus, Caryopteris, Russian sage, Leycestria, and hardy fuchsia respond to this technique. Begin by removing damaged, weak or spindly stems. Then thin out stems that are too close together. Cut back to a healthy branch or to the base of the plant.

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Now prune back hard the remaining stems, cutting back all of last year's wood to an outward facing bud that is 3-4 buds from the woody framework.

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Here's how our butterfly bush looks after pruning. This summer, it will reward us with plenty of new growth and blooms.

Pruning Ornamental Shrubs

2008-07-12T13:59:00.000-07:00

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What you need:

Pruning shears

Many shrubs need pruning to balance their shape, stimulate flowering, or to promote compact growth. Before you start pruning, step back and take a look at the shrub to determine its natural shape. This shrub has a naturally round habit that has become a little overgrown, so the objective will be to remove any shoots that don't conform to its natural shape.

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In order to restore a shrub to its natural shape, start pruning from the bottom and work your way up, layering each cut at a different height. As you prune, step back occasionally to evaluate your work.

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You should prune off about a third of the previous year's growth. The stem should be cut back to a lateral bud or branch that is facing in the direction you want the shrub to grow.

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If a shrub is an early spring bloomer, pruning should be done after flowering. If a shrub blooms in mid to late summer pruning can be done while the shrub is still dormant, in late winter to early spring. As a caution, if you prune a spring bloomer in late winter or in autumn you will lose next spring's flowering.

Planting A Container Shrub

2008-06-09T11:37:00.002-07:00

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What you need:

Container grown shrub
Shovel
Hose
Mulch
3' length of wood dowel

Planting a container-grown shrub is easy. Start by digging a hole at least twice the width of the shrub container. Make the hole as deep as the container is tall.

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Use a garden fork to scarify the sides and bottom of the hole. This allows the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil.

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Next, remove the shrub from its container and gently massage or tease out the roots so they are no longer tightly wound.

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Place the shrub in the hole. Lay a dowel across the hole to ensure the proper planting depth. Be sure that the crown of the shrub is at the same level as the surrounding soil.

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Backfill the hole, and gently tamp down the soil. Create a moat around the crown of the shrub to catch water. Fill the moat with water and let it drain. Repeat and you're ready to mulch.

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Spread 2" of mulch around the shrub. Avoid applying mulch around the crown of the shrub. Prune any broken branches if necessary.