We have refreshed this piece to expand and update it. You can watch our original video on this subject at the bottom of this page.

When it comes to looking the part, a gentleman knows that little details can sometimes matter the most. Here, we explore 20 essential habits that mark a man of distinction.

1. Always Carry a Quality Umbrella

Preparedness is a cornerstone of a gentleman’s character, and few accessories demonstrate this virtue more clearly than a fine umbrella.

Always Prepared, Always Poised

When rain is a possibility, he carries one not merely for his own comfort but for that of a companion. Unlike a bulky coat, a sleek umbrella offers elegant protection from a downpour.

Should the skies open while he is out with someone caught without one, he doesn’t hesitate to offer his umbrella, even if that means getting a little wet himself. To be caught dashing through the rain is an undignified spectacle; to be poised and prepared is the picture of foresight and class.

2. Hold the Door for Everyone

While tradition often associates this act with chivalry towards ladies, the modern gentleman understands it as a universal gesture of consideration. Holding a door for the person immediately behind you, regardless of their gender, is a simple yet significant gesture that demonstrates your awareness of your surroundings and respect for others. This courtesy is especially vital when assisting the elderly, the disabled, or anyone who has their hands full.

3. Offer Your Seat to Those in Need

In a crowded public space, be it on a bus or in a waiting room, a gentleman is quick to assess the needs of others. He is always willing to stand so that someone who would benefit more from a seat (such as an elderly person, an expectant mother, or an individual with a disability) may sit comfortably.

If anyone declines your offer, don’t take it personally. The gesture remains appreciated, even if not accepted.

4. Match Your Pace When Walking With Others

A gentleman doesn’t race ahead or lag behind when walking with others. Instead, he matches their pace as best he can. This matters most when walking with someone older, someone in heels, or someone who is simply enjoying the scenery on a conversational stroll.

It’s an easy detail to overlook, but few things say “I’d rather be somewhere else” quite like walking ten feet ahead of your companion. Staying in step is a small way of saying the company matters as much as the destination.

5. Keep Your Voice Down in Public

Whether dining in a restaurant, riding in an elevator, or taking public transit, a gentleman is mindful of how far his voice carries. Even mid-laugh. He understands that nobody around him signed up to be part of his conversation, and that a booming voice in a shared space is inconsiderate even when it isn’t meant to be.

FINDING THE RIGHT VOLUME

Not Loud, Not Mumbling

This isn’t an argument for going through life as a shrinking violet, timidly mumbling. That’s its own problem. Simply don’t speak so forcefully that everyone in the building or train car can hear your conversation more clearly than their own thoughts.

A gentleman can be perfectly engaging and animated without being the loudest man in the room.

6. Rise When Meeting Others

With very few exceptions, introductions are best made on one’s feet. Rising to greet someone, even if just for a moment, is a powerful non-verbal sign of respect.

It communicates that you view the other person as an equal and that the introduction is an event worthy of your full attention. Remaining seated can inadvertently signal indifference, an attitude a gentleman studiously avoids.

As for those exceptions: if a disability makes standing difficult or impossible, others will be accommodating. Beyond that, read the room. Standing and shaking hands can feel stilted at casual gatherings among people you see regularly. When it’s practical, though, a gentleman makes a habit of rising whenever someone new joins the table or the room.

7. Ensure Others’ Comfort Before Sitting

Whether you are the host of a dinner party or simply dining with a companion, a gentleman ensures others are comfortable before he takes his own seat. This may involve pulling out a chair, assisting with a coat, or simply waiting until a guest has settled.

This practice demonstrates that you prioritize the well-being and comfort of others above your own, a foundational principle of hospitality.

How To Be A Good Houseguest Or Host

How to Host a Backyard Party & BBQ like A Gentleman

How to Host a Poker Night

8. Introduce Your Companions

There is little more awkward than being the unknown person in a group. When you are the sole connection between individuals, it is your duty to make proper introductions.

A gentleman bridges this social gap promptly, and he goes a step further than simply exchanging names. He adds a small detail that gives the two something to talk about, such as a shared interest, hometown, or profession. This eliminates the awkward silence that so often follows a bare “John, Mark. Mark, John,” and instead gives the conversation somewhere to go.

9. Use Titles First, and Names Sparingly

When first meeting someone, particularly in a formal or professional setting, defaulting to titles is a sign of respect. This is especially crucial when addressing someone with an earned title, such as a doctor or a professor.

On Titles & First Impressions

Let Them Offer the First Name

It is always more graceful for the other person to invite familiarity by saying, “Please, call me John,” than it is to recover from the presumption of using a first name too soon.

Once you’re on first-name terms, the same restraint applies to the name itself. Using someone’s name makes you sound attentive and genuinely present, but only in moderation. Dropping it into every other sentence starts to sound rehearsed, or worse, manipulative.

Used sparingly, typically at the start of a conversation and then again at a meaningful point for emphasis, it comes across as natural, warm, and socially comfortable.

10. Engage Everyone in Conversation

During a group discussion, a gentleman is attuned to the room’s dynamics. He makes a conscious effort to ensure no one is excluded, gently guiding the conversation to create openings for quieter individuals to speak.

By asking for their opinions or directing a question their way, he validates their presence and enriches the dialogue for everyone involved. And when someone joins a conversation already in progress, he pauses to make introductions as needed, then catches the newcomer up with a sentence or two of context rather than leaving them to piece it together.

11. Ask Before Offering Advice

We all have a relative, co-worker, or friend who dispenses advice whether anyone asked for it or not. For most people on the receiving end, this rarely feels helpful.

It comes across as condescending, pushy, or judgmental, as though the advice giver assumes he knows not only the solution but the problem better than the person living it.

A gentleman recognizes that sometimes people don’t want a solution at all. They want a sympathetic ear.

“Would you like my thoughts on this, or would you prefer that I just listen for now?”

That single question hands control of the conversation back to the other person, which is often exactly what they wanted.

12. Offer Credit Generously

When a gentleman is recognized for an accomplishment, he is quick to share the credit with everyone who played a role in it. Very few achievements happen in isolation, and there are usually several people who contributed in ways that go unnoticed.

Rather than letting that go unacknowledged, he names names and makes sure the contributions are recognized. It costs him nothing to share the spotlight, and it earns him a reputation as someone others genuinely want to work with again.

13. Understand the Wine Ritual

When a sommelier presents a bottle and pours a taste, the purpose is not to decide if you like the wine, but to confirm it is not spoiled. A flawed wine will have a distinctively musty or sour aroma.

A quick swirl and a sniff are typically sufficient. To reject a sound bottle because it doesn’t suit your personal taste is a significant breach of etiquette.

And regardless of how well you know your wines, don’t turn the moment into a performance or hold up the table while you deliberate. Treat it as the brief, practical formality it is, then let the wine and the conversation flow.

14. Notice When a Glass Is Empty

A gentleman notices before he’s asked, and often fills it. Almost nobody would turn down an unspoken refill of water, so that one he simply handles.

For anything else, alcoholic or otherwise, he has the courtesy to ask first, on the chance that the other person has already decided they’ve had enough.

Handled with a little aplomb, the art of the refill reflects a broader habit: noticing what others might need before they have to ask for it.

15. Stand When a Lady Leaves or Joins the Table

During a formal dinner, certain time-honored conventions add a layer of elegance. One such tradition calls for gentlemen to rise briefly when a lady first joins the table, and again if she excuses herself and later returns. While this rule may be set aside in casual settings, observing it on a formal occasion is a sophisticated gesture of respect.

16. Compliment the Staff on Excellent Service

While nearly any patron will complain when service is poor, a gentleman makes a point to offer genuine praise when it is excellent. Beyond a simple “thank you,” consider elevating the compliment by briefly and specifically telling the manager what their team member did to make the occasion special.

To a server:

“Thank you, [Name of the server]. Your recommendation for the wine was perfect, and you were wonderfully attentive without being intrusive. You made our dinner much more enjoyable.”

To a host or maître d':

“I wanted to thank you. The table you gave us was lovely, and we truly appreciate how welcoming you were from the moment we arrived.”

To a barista or counter staff:

“You make an excellent flat white. I appreciate the care you put into it. Thank you.”

This small act of recognition can make a profound difference. Those in the hospitality and food service industries are too often subjected to complaints, so a genuine compliment might well salvage a shift.

17. Settle the Bill When You Extend the Invitation

When a gentleman invites someone to dine, he considers the occasion a gift and intends to pay for the meal. This gesture is one of hospitality and appreciation for his guest’s company.

By discreetly handling the bill, he ensures the focus remains on the shared experience. One quiet tactic is to speak with the maître d’ on arrival and make clear that you will be paying before the meal has even begun, though only if you are certain it sits comfortably within your budget.

There should be no announcement, no reaching across the table for the bill, and no awkward tug of war. Should his guest insist on contributing, a gentleman is gracious enough to accept.

18. Write Handwritten “Thank You” Notes

In an age of fleeting digital messages, the handwritten note stands apart as an emblem of sincerity. Taking the time to compose and send a tangible expression of gratitude demonstrates a level of care and thoughtfulness that is increasingly rare, leaving a powerful and lasting impression.

19. Adhere to Understood Dress Codes

A gentleman understands that clothing is a form of communication. While following a written dress code is simple, he also grasps the implicit expectations of various occasions. He knows that the appropriate attire for an al fresco luncheon is quite different from what is expected for dinner at eight, and he takes the time to understand these distinctions rather than defaulting to whatever is easiest.

Dressing appropriately shows respect for the host, the event, and the other guests, signaling that you are invested in making the occasion a success. Getting that balance right, neither underdressing nor overdressing, while still dressing in a way that feels authentically your own, is a hallmark of true sartorial mastery.

Outfit Rundown

Today, I’m wearing a checkered sport coat with blue, tan, and cream accents; it’s paired with a blue pocket square, a blue shirt, tan trousers, brown loafers, and Fort Belvedere socks with a brown-and-blue shadow stripe. For more great accessories like these socks and other pocket squares you might find, check out the Fort Belvedere shop here.

Fort Belvedere

Mid Brown & Blue Shadow Stripe Cotton Socks

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Roberto Ugolini

High Heel White Fragrance

Get This Fragrance

20. Master the Fundamentals of Etiquette

Etiquette is not a single rule but a code of conduct designed to make social interactions more pleasant. While mastering every detail can seem daunting, the core principle is simple: consistently consider if your actions are enriching or diminishing the experience of those around you.

For those ready to delve deeper into this rewarding subject, we have compiled our definitive guide into a complete video series. Explore our full Etiquette Playlist on YouTube:

Conclusions

While we won’t always get every detail 100% right when trying to be a “perfect” gentleman, these are small gestures that can make a world of difference 

What little things do you do to stand out as a gentleman? Let us know in the comments!

Mastering the Details of Gentlemanly Conduct

10 Things a Gentleman Never Says

Learn the phrases and remarks a true gentleman avoids to maintain dignity and respect.

See the List

How to Walk Like a Gentleman

Master the posture, pace, and presence that make your walk convey confidence and refinement.

Refine Your Walk

How to Sit Like a Gentleman

Discover how to sit with elegance and composure in any social or professional setting.

Improve Your Posture

Custom clothier Ivan, with about ten years in the trade, walks through the three sport coats he reaches for most, the fabrics and construction behind them, and the template he now uses for almost every commission.

Watch the full walkthrough to see each jacket up close, hear why he chose the cloth and construction, and pick up the finishing details he repeats across the collection.

Why This Video Is Worth Watching

Ivan pulls out his three most-worn jackets and explains what makes each one a keeper, from a cream wool-silk he can wear nearly year-round to a Prince of Wales flannel built for deep winter. Along the way he shares the small, deliberate details that shape the whole collection: the one buttonhole he adds color to and the one he never touches, the hidden strap he works into every vent, and why he stopped fussing over linings.

He also owns up to the jackets he barely wears and why, then shows the three cloths he is itching to turn into his next commissions. It is a quick look at how a working clothier actually thinks about building a wardrobe, not just buying one.

Why a Versatile Template Beats Chasing Statement Pieces

Across the collection, the same choices keep showing up. This is the shorthand he now applies to almost every order.

• Versatility first. If a piece does not work with what he already owns, he does not order it.
• Buttons by garment. Two-button sport coats, three-button suits, a three-roll-two on his favorites.
• Pockets by formality. Patch pockets on sport coats, flat pockets plus a ticket pocket on dressier jackets.
• Soft shoulders. No padding, often a spalla camicia.
• Quarter lining by default. It keeps a jacket wearable across more of the year. Full lining only for warmth.
• One small signature. A colored thread on the final cuff buttonhole, never the lapel.
• A vent that behaves. A small strap keeps the vent from flapping and holds the hips and back in shape.
• No overthinking linings. He picks one he likes and ignores matching.

Highlights from this Video

1

"I love this jacket because it falls into those fall colors. I can layer a brown, navy, or green sweater underneath."

3:17

Why the cream wool-silk earns its keep: it layers across seasons instead of sitting idle in summer.

2

"I don't change the lapel buttonhole. It's like a target or a bullseye, the first thing you see."

4:50

Why he adds a colored thread to the cuff buttonhole but leaves the lapel alone.

3

"I add the strap so you don't get that flap over the vent. It keeps the hips and back looking really nice."

5:54

A small vent detail he builds into every jacket, his own and his clients’.

4

"With linings, I don't worry about matching. If I like it, that's what I'm going to put in it."

10:04

His low-stress approach to lining, and the advice he gives clients.

What to Watch Next

Is Linen Really the Best Summer Suit Fabric?

Neapolitan Tailors Share Their Favorites

Hear the Tailors

What Makes Neapolitan Tailoring Special?

Tailors Explain Naples Style

See the Naples Style

What’s the Difference?

Suit Jackets, Sport Coats, and Blazers

Settle the debate

Sometimes it’s the little things that have the biggest impact. Today I’m sharing my favorite small things, the ones I actually use, at home and on the road.

None of this is sponsored. These are things I bought myself and kept using.

Everyday Carry and Jewelry

1. A Quality Measuring Tape

One thing I have with me whether I travel, I’m at home, or I’m on the road. I go with fiberglass because it doesn’t stretch, so I always get an accurate measurement, and it’s foldable, packable, and stashable.

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Sewing Tape, Tailoring & Craft

$6.59

Made from high-quality fiberglass PVC, this cloth tape measure has a smooth surface for a comfortable feel. Unlike ordinary plastic measuring tapes, this reinforced version is more durable and resistant to stretching, ensuring long-lasting use.

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09/27/2026 05:08 am GMT

I use it for clothing measurements, product measurements, measurements on my body, and whatever else I need. A quality measuring tape in both centimeters and inches is always valuable.

2. Pinky Rings

I love pinky rings. They’re small, they’re made of gold, and you can change them with your outfit and your personality. They’re unique to you.

Because they’re gold, they’re also sellable. I bought most of mine when the gold price was under $1,000 an ounce, and it’s now over $4,000, so it’s an investment you can actually wear. Definitely the most classic piece of men’s jewelry there is.

Ultimate Guide on Pinky Rings

What Rings Mean on Each Finger

How to Wear Signet Rings

My Pinky Ring Collection

3. Cufflinks

The other piece of men’s jewelry I really love. They upgrade any shirt, and they’re beautiful objects in their own right. These are the eagle and snake from the Fort Belvedere Predator and Prey line, and they go easily into a French cuff shirt.

Not many people wear cufflinks anymore, so if you do, you stand out. I always get compliments when I wear them.

4. A Slim Card Holder Wallet

The Fort Belvedere slim wallet is super practical when you travel. Always handy to have, and I keep a KeySmart card in it.

Travel Essentials

I always bring a lot of small things when I travel, because they make life more pleasant and easier.

5. A Luggage Scale

Mine is from Etekcity, rated to 110 lb, which is more than my suitcase has ever weighed. I’ve found a lot of scales aren’t accurate, and when I pack, buy things, or get rid of things, the weight changes. I hate paying airlines for overweight baggage.

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Etekcity Luggage Scale

$10.99

Say goodbye to unexpected overweight baggage fees with this highly precise digital luggage scale, capable of effortlessly handling heavy-duty suitcases up to 110 lbs. Compact, lightweight, and built to withstand the demands of frequent travel, it easily slips into your pocket or carry-on for convenient weighing on both departure and souvenir-filled return trips.

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09/27/2026 12:10 pm GMT

This little scale has probably saved me several thousand dollars.

6. A Travel Tray

I have ADHD, so I always bring a travel tray. Keys, cufflinks, change, metro tickets, all in one organized place so I can find them again. Otherwise I’m lost.

Fort Belvedere Travel Essentials

A Place for Everything

Keys, cufflinks, and coins stay together in one spot, at home or in a hotel room. The bullhide suede lining keeps them from sliding around.

Shop Travel Trays

7. A Manicure Kit

TSA approved for carry-on, and it helps me stay well groomed, especially on a longer trip.

8. An Eye Mask

You never know how bright it is outside. I don’t want to travel without one anymore.

Buy on Amazon

BeeVines 100% Mulberry Silk Sleep Mask

$8.99

Crafted from 100% pure, breathable mulberry silk on both sides, the BeeVines Sleep Mask provides complete blackout protection for deep, uninterrupted rest anywhere you go. Its lightweight, zero-pressure design rests gently on your face without compressing your eyelids or nose bridge, allowing you to blink freely and sleep comfortably in any position.

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09/27/2026 12:10 pm GMT

9. Sleep Pods

Basically an earplug with a built-in noise machine, so you don’t hear anything. It connects to your phone. They’ve saved me many times and given me hours of good sleep when it was loud and annoying outside.

10. An AirTag

Normally I keep an AirTag on my keys. When I travel I remove it and put it in my suitcase, so if my checked luggage gets lost I have an idea where it is.

Fort Belvedere

Antique Mahogany Montecristo Leather AirTag Key Ring

Get This!

Fort Belvedere

Black Togo Calf Leather AirTag Key Ring

Get This

11. An Old-School Luggage Tag

I don’t just want to rely on the AirTag, so I use a proper luggage tag with my address. It’s nicely hidden, it has double-folded edges, and it’s made to last. It doesn’t just look good, it gives me peace of mind.

12. A Passport Holder

Keeps my passports in one organized place. It gives me peace of mind every time I travel.

RECOMMENDED

Fort Belvedere Passport Holder

Combining premium European full-grain leather with highly organized practicality, a Fort Belvedere passport holder stands out as an exceptional gift for any discerning traveler. Its thoughtful design secures essential documents using built-in RFID protection, multiple passport pouches, and dedicated compartments for cards, tickets, and currency.

Purchase link

13. A KeySmart Card

It fits into a credit card slot, connects to your phone like an AirTag, and charges wirelessly. The battery is good for a year, so I can always see where my passport is if I misplace it. It’s been a lifesaver more than once.

Buy on Amazon

KeySmart SmartCard Gen 2 Rechargeable Wallet Tracker Card for iPhone

$29.99

At just 2mm thick, the ultra-slim KeySmart Card effortlessly slips into your wallet without adding unnecessary bulk to your minimalist everyday carry. It integrates seamlessly with the Apple Find My app to deliver proactive left-behind alerts and secure, crowdsourced location tracking, ensuring your essentials are never truly lost.

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09/27/2026 12:11 pm GMT

14. A Travel Jewelry Box

For keeping everything together and protected on the road.

15. A Soft Leather Glasses Case

I always bring a pair of sunglasses when I travel, and they go into a soft leather case that works with the rest of my accessories.

16. Cologne Samples

At 2 ml they’re not heavy, there’s no issue with flammable goods, and they work just as well as the big bottle. That’s plenty for the duration of any of my trips.

17. A Second Scent for the Trip

Mine are from The Nose Behind, the collection by Herbert Stricker. Suits is the one I reach for most: fresh, citrusy, and about as versatile as a fragrance gets.

Grooming and Personal Care

18. Native Deodorant

When I stopped using aluminum-free deodorants I often got a rash, until I found this one. It smells good and causes no skin irritation.

Buy on Amazon

Native Aluminum Free Deodorant

$14.00

Native Deodorant delivers up to 72 hours of dependable odor control with an aluminum-free formula designed specifically to protect and soothe sensitive skin. Crafted from clean, naturally derived ingredients like coconut oil and shea butter, it glides on smoothly without leaving behind any white residue on your clothing. You can enjoy true peace of mind and all-day comfort while indulging in the delicate, powdery freshness of its signature Cotton & Lily scent.

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09/27/2026 12:09 pm GMT

19. Your Own Shampoo

Hotel shampoo gives me dandruff, so I always bring my own. Nizoral, in my case. That way I get exactly the product I want and don’t come back from a trip with dandruff.

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Nizoral Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with 1% Ketoconazole

$16.88

Nizoral is a powerful over-the-counter dandruff shampoo for men and women that targets the root cause of flaking by actively killing the underlying scalp fungus. Powered by 1% Ketoconazole, its clinically proven active ingredient is ten times more effective at eliminating this fungus than the active ingredient found in the leading dandruff shampoo.

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09/27/2026 12:11 pm GMT

20. Refillable Silicone Bottles

Small enough to get through TSA, and much better than the travel-size bottles the brands sell, because they’re soft and you can squeeze everything out.

Buy on Amazon

Dot&Dot Leak Proof Travel Bottles

$14.99

Travel with confidence using these durable, squeezable silicone travel bottles, featuring an advanced anti-leakage design with a three-wall flip cap and drip-free valve to prevent messy spills in your luggage. Constructed from 100% BPA-free, food-grade silicone, these versatile containers are perfectly safe for storing everything from shampoos and lotions to consumable sauces and dressings. 

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09/27/2026 12:11 pm GMT

21. A Water Flosser

Most people floss with string, and the problem is it often breaks. I use a water flosser instead, every day.

Buy on Amazon

Waterpik Aquarius Countertop Water Flosser

$59.99

The dentist-recommended Waterpik Aquarius utilizes advanced PrecisionPulse technology to remove up to 99.9% of plaque bacteria, proudly earning the prestigious ADA Seal of Acceptance. This fully-featured oral care system provides ten distinct pressure settings and a specialized massage mode to ensure a highly customized, stimulating clean for your gums.

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09/27/2026 12:12 pm GMT

22. MUHI MOPIDICK-s Itch Relief Lotion

Whenever something itches or I get a bug bite, I reach for this. It’s from Japan. I don’t know exactly what’s in it, but it works.

Buy on Amazon

MUHI MOPIDICK-s Itch Relief Lotion (50ml)

$14.73

This trusted Japanese formula delivers instant, refreshing cooling relief for insect bites and skin irritations using a soothing blend of l-Menthol and dl-Camphor. 

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09/27/2026 12:12 pm GMT

23. A Tide To Go Stick

You undo it, put it on the stain, and it gets a little solvent out. A great first aid item that has saved me from embarrassment many times when I had a spot of tomato sauce on my tie or shirt.

Buy on Amazon

Tide Pen Pro Stain Remover - Ultimate Stain Stick & Stain Remover for Clothes

$9.99

The Tide Pen Pro is the ultimate on-the-go instant stain remover, specifically designed to eliminate tough fresh food and drink spills before they have a chance to set. Capable of tackling everything from coffee and wine to BBQ sauce and chocolate syrup, you simply press and gently rub the applicator tip over the blemish to effortlessly erase it.

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09/27/2026 12:09 pm GMT

Tech and Charging

24. A Fitbit

No subscription fee, and the battery lasts a week. It gives me data on my sleep and oxygen levels, keeps me honest about my workouts, and motivates me to do more.

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Fitbit Google Air - Screenless Activity Tracker - Obsidian

$99.00

Fitness, heart rate, & sleep tracking, personalized AI-powered coaching, up to 7 days’ battery life, works with iOS & Android.

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09/27/2026 12:09 pm GMT

25. AirPods Pro 3

The battery life is much better than the older ones, and the noise cancelling is good enough for most flights. I use them every day for hours.

Buy on Amazon

Apple AirPods Pro 3 Wireless Earbuds with Active Noise Cancellation

$199.00

Experience breathtaking, three-dimensional audio and the world's best active noise cancellation with the AirPods Pro 3, designed to block out up to twice as much unwanted noise for total immersion. 

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09/27/2026 12:10 pm GMT

26. An Anker Travel Charger

I used to think a small all-in-one tool was best. They’re usually not powerful enough, and if they are, they fall out of the outlet.

I switched to this one from Anker. It’s relatively flat, and the key is the cable: lightweight, and I can add an international adapter and plug it into the wall where it stays put all night.

Buy on Amazon

Anker Prime Charging Station, 200W 6-Port GaN Desktop Charger

$69.99

The Anker Prime charging station delivers an ultra-powerful 200W output, allowing you to conveniently power up to six devices simultaneously from a single hub. Engineered for high-demand tech, its USB-C ports can each provide up to 100W at the same time, easily fast-charging two 14-inch MacBook Pros to 50% in just 28 minutes.

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09/27/2026 12:11 pm GMT

I can charge my computer, iPad, phone, and AirPods at once, and there are two American outlets for the heavy chargers meant to plug in directly. Everything is charged and I don’t have to think about it.

Buy on Amazon

Anker Prime Charger, 160W Max 3-Port GaN Charger, for MacBook Pro Charger

$115.99

Delivering an impressive 160W of total output, this ultra-compact, three-port USB-C charger packs massive power into a sleek design roughly the size of an AirPods Pro case. It offers a consistent 140W single-port output capable of charging a 16-inch MacBook Pro to 50% in just 25 minutes.

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09/27/2026 12:11 pm GMT

27. Long, High Quality Cables

The cable is the key, which is why my charger never comes unplugged. I like the Anker ones for their length, and this one has a bit of silicone to it.

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Anker USB C to USB C Cable, 100W Fast Charging Cable (2-Pack, 6 ft, Silver)

$14.99

The Anker 333 USB-C to USB-C cable delivers high-speed charging up to 100W, providing rapid and reliable power for all your compatible USB-C devices. Engineered for exceptional longevity, it features a rugged, hard-wearing nylon exterior that easily withstands a 5,000-bend lifespan. 

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09/27/2026 12:11 pm GMT

28. Cable Matters Thunderbolt 4 Cables

Short, but very good for transferring large files quickly, like from a camera to a computer. There was a time when I thought all cables were the same, until I transferred data and realized these are genuinely better.

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Cable Matters [Intel Certified] 80Gbps Thunderbolt 5 Cable, 3.3ft / 1m

$29.99

Elevate your professional workspace with this future-proof Thunderbolt 5 cable, delivering unprecedented bi-directional data transfer rates of up to 80 Gbps and up to 120 Gbps of video bandwidth to seamlessly support stunning dual 8K or triple 4K displays.

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09/27/2026 12:11 pm GMT

29. Rechargeable Batteries

You can use them over and over, they come in all sizes, and they last longer than conventional alkaline batteries. With the size of modern chargers you can even bring them when you travel. Most of mine are Eneloop or Energizer.

Eneloop Panasonic Battery Charger

$28.99

Panasonic eneloop AA NiMH rechargeable batteries deliver exceptional, long-lasting power with a 2100mAh capacity and the ability to be recharged up to 2,100 times. Pre-charged at the factory using solar energy, they arrive completely ready to use and can impressively maintain up to 70% of their charge even after ten years in storage.

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09/27/2026 12:12 pm GMT

Kitchen and Home

30. Canned Fish

A tiny consumable thing I love. Beans, tuna, mackerel, mussels, whatever you name it, I eat it.

A French Cannery Worth Knowing

La Belle-Iloise, from Brittany

My favorite brand is French, called La Belle-Iloise, and they have a great range of flavors. Beats any omega-3 fish oil capsule, I promise.

Try This!

31. A Quality Corkscrew

One with a little knife on top and a double-hinged mechanism, so you brace it on the bottle, screw it in, and it works every time. Mine is a Pulltap’s from Spain. Nice weight, good quality, had it for years.

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Pulltap Corkscrew (Classic 500)

$13.99

Trusted by sommeliers and bartenders since 1996, the Pulltap’s Classic 500 is an industry-standard waiter’s corkscrew featuring a patented double-hinged lever for exceptionally smooth, low-effort extraction.

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09/27/2026 12:12 pm GMT

32. A Damascus Steel Paring Knife

Mine is from Shun. Beautiful thing, and it lives at home.

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Shun Classic 3.5" Paring Knife

$64.40

Handcrafted Japanese Vegetable & Fruit Knife, VG-MAX Core, Damascus Stainless Steel Cladding, Pakkawood Handle

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09/27/2026 12:13 pm GMT

33. An Inexpensive Paring Knife

The Victorinox is much cheaper, and that’s the one I bring when I travel, because I’m not worried about losing or damaging it. It’s so much better than the knives you get at an Airbnb, which always suck, without exception.

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Victorinox Swiss Classic 3.25" Paring Knife

$8.00

Dominate your kitchen prep with this indispensable knife, specifically designed for tasks that demand exceptional precision. It features a contemporary, ergonomically designed handle with a textured, non-slip grip that ensures superior comfort and minimizes wrist tension, even when wet.

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09/27/2026 12:13 pm GMT

34. A Full-Size Peppermill

Freshly ground pepper is so superior to the pre-ground stuff, and you can decide how coarse you want it. Mine is from Cole & Mason. The bigger ones give you more pepper more quickly.

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Peugeot Paris Natural Pepper Mill

$74.37

Expertly engineered in France from sustainably sourced beechwood, the iconic Peugeot Paris u'Select pepper mill adds a touch of classic elegance to any dining table. Its patented u'Select system features six distinct settings, allowing you to easily adjust the grind from extra fine to very coarse to perfectly highlight the natural aroma and spice of your meals.

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09/27/2026 12:13 pm GMT

35. A Compact Peppermill

For travel, or simply for a smaller table, the compact version will do just fine.

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Cole & Mason Refillable Spice Mill

$49.95

Refillable Spice Mill Set, Precision Grinding Mechanism, Premium Seasoning Refills Included

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09/27/2026 01:09 pm GMT

36. An IKEA Plastic Bag

One of the cheapest things on this list, and one of the most ecological. It costs about $2, it’s made of recycled plastic, and I use it for the farmers market and for travel. It comes apart easily. A perfect example of how a tiny thing can turn out to be a big one.

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IKEA FRAKTA Carrier Bag

$4.97

The iconic IKEA Frakta large shopping bags deliver incredible versatility and durability, effortlessly handling everything from heavy groceries and laundry to bulky moving supplies. Constructed from rugged, water-resistant polypropylene, each bag can comfortably carry up to 55 pounds and features both short and long handles for flexible, ergonomic carrying.

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09/27/2026 12:12 pm GMT

The Detail That Changes Everything

37. A Spare Set of Shoelaces

Often underrated. Change the color of the lace and you change the entire look of the shoe. It’s easy, it’s cheap, it’s reversible, and you can bring it when you travel.

One pair of shoes, four pairs of laces, four different looks.

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12 Things Sven Raphael Schneider Can’t Live Without

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Team GG’s Everyday Carry (EDC) 2026

Explore our EDC

To a true connoisseur, the fabric is the soul of the garment. In classic menswear we don’t just look at color. We look at the weave, the weight, and the way the light hits the cloth.

What follows is a reference to fifty fabrics worth knowing, grouped by what they’re actually for. For each one: what it is, where it belongs, and just as usefully, where it doesn’t.

All 50 Fabrics at a Glance

Warm Weather Fabrics

High Twist Wool (Fresco)

Defined by tightly twisted yarns, which create a crisp, porous, highly breathable cloth. Usually 100% wool in 9 to 11 oz, giving structure without trapping heat. Essential for hot and humid climates because it resists wrinkles and allows constant airflow.

A navy fresco suit or gray fresco trousers are foundational. Not for cold weather tailoring or formal evening wear, as the dry texture lacks the softness and drape of more luxurious wools.

Tropical Wool

A lightweight plain wool engineered for heat and humidity, typically 100% wool at 7 to 9 oz. Minimal insulation, high breathability, and the reason you can stay sharp in a summer climate where heavier wools would stifle. Not suitable for cold weather, as it lacks density and provides little thermal protection.

Irish Linen

The gold standard for summer. Heavy, crisp, and it wrinkles with a certain aristocratic charm that classic menswear has always accepted. Essential for hot weather suits and trousers, and an unlined linen suit is hard to beat for a summer wedding or for travel. Not for the man who hates creasing, because the creasing is the point.

Seersucker

A fantastic lightweight summer material for trousers and suiting. Traditionally cotton and hugely popular in the American South, though it’s now available in wool too. Once strictly casual, I’ve since seen seersucker dinner jackets. I own about thirty pairs of trousers and one seersucker suit, and I love the cloth because the high twist makes it genuinely non-iron. No chemicals, purely natural.

Mohair

Sourced from the Angora goat, known for high luster, resilience, and cooling properties. It creates a crisp cloth that resists wrinkling, which makes it a favorite for summer evening wear and sharp suits, and it brings a sophisticated sheen to tailoring. Not for soft, relaxed clothing, as mohair tends to be stiff and structured.

Tussah Silk

A wild silk with a slubby, irregular texture. Unlike cultivated silk it reads matte and rustic rather than sleek, which makes it an excellent choice for a summer sport coat that needs texture and character. Not for formal evening wear, where the uneven surface works against you.

Sea Island Cotton

One of the rarest and finest cottons in the world, with extra-long staple fibers that produce exceptional softness, strength, and a subtle sheen. Ideally 100% Sea Island cotton in a lightweight shirting. A white dress shirt or fine knit polo in this cloth is a worthwhile investment. Not for rugged or heavy use, as its delicate nature suffers under frequent abrasion.

Fine Piqué

A cotton characterized by a subtle raised texture, often woven in small geometric patterns that improve breathability and add visual interest. Typically 100% cotton, lightweight to midweight, balancing softness with structure. A piqué polo shirt is essential for smart casual, and it carries more sophistication than a jersey knit. Not for formal tailoring or cold weather.

Cold Weather Fabrics

Melton Wool

A thick, dense wool where the weave disappears entirely under heavy felting. Windproof and exceptionally warm, which is why it’s the standard for naval peacoats and heavy overcoats. The ultimate barrier against a winter gale. Not for garments needing drape or movement, because it is stiff and structured by design.

Camel Hair

Distinctive for its rich golden tan and remarkable softness, derived from the undercoat of camels. Highly insulating yet light, which makes it the perfect cloth for the iconic wraparound polo coat. Not durable enough for daily heavy wear, as the delicate fibers abrade if handled carelessly.

Cashmere

From the undercoat of the Kashmir goat, prized for a fine fiber roughly eight times warmer than wool and luxuriously soft. As with anything, quality varies enormously, and the cheaper stuff is very prone to friction. Use it for knitwear and you’ll notice pilling. Make trousers from it and they’ll wear out quickly. I’d use it for an evening overcoat you don’t wear often, a sport coat, a waistcoat, or knitwear. Definitely not socks, where the friction is simply too much for the material.

Alpaca

A hollow fiber mostly sourced from Peru. The air inside makes it very insulating, so it’s popular for knitwear, scarves, hats, and winter pieces.

Wool & Hair Fibers

Baby Alpaca

Quality varies, and royal baby alpaca is the most premium, almost as soft as cashmere. Rarer in suiting because it’s fluffy, casual, and wears extremely warm.

I wouldn’t wear an alpaca jacket or suit because I run hot, but an alpaca sweater, waistcoat, scarf, or pair of socks, certainly.

Charcoal & Gray Double Sided Alpaca Scarf

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Brown & Oatmeal Double Sided Alpaca Scarf

Get an Alpaca Scarf

Blue & Gray Double Sided Alpaca Scarf

Get an Alpaca Scarf

Vicuña

The rarest and most expensive fiber in the world, from the Andean camelid of the same name. Incredibly fine, soft, and warm, usually left in its natural golden brown to signal its exclusivity. A symbol of absolute luxury, and worth it only for the ultimate investment scarf or light coat. Not practical for everyday use given the cost and delicacy.

Shetland Wool

A soft yet hearty wool from Shetland sheep, often used for the iconic shaggy dog sweater. Lightweight, warm, with a distinctive slightly brushed surface, and the essential cloth for casual layered winter outfits. A crew neck Shetland is the classic, though I’d argue for a V-neck instead: better silhouette, and you can actually see your tie. Not for anyone with real wool sensitivity, as the texture stays rustic.

Loden

A water-resistant wool from the Tyrolean Alps, traditionally forest green. Naturally felted and incredibly warm, which makes it a classic for traditional hunting coats and capes. Not for formal business suiting, as its rustic heaviness is firmly country.

Moleskin

A sheared winter cloth with a suede-like feel that wears very warm. A perfect trouser material that works beautifully with tweed, and remarkably durable for something so soft. I also like moleskin waistcoats, since they contrast nicely with most of the jacket fabrics I wear. Not for hot weather, as the dense structure exists to trap heat and repel the elements.

Velvet

A plush cloth with a dense pile that creates a soft surface and deep color saturation. Typically silk or cotton, sometimes blended for durability, medium to heavy weight. Important for adding texture and a little drama to evening wear, and a velvet dinner jacket is a genuine standout. Not for everyday or warm climates, as it’s heavy, heat-retaining, and prone to crushing.

Worsted Flannel

Made by combing the wool fibers so the long ones remain and the short staples are discarded, then brushing the woven cloth to raise that soft, piled texture. A beautiful winter fabric known for its fuzzy, nappy hand and its mélange color, achieved with fiber dye technology so multiple colors run through the yarn and therefore the cloth. Because it’s combed, worsted flannel is considerably more durable than the alternative.

See our full flannel guide and our worsted wool guide for more.

Carded Flannel

Here the yarns aren’t combed, so long and short fibers both remain. That makes the cloth inherently weaker but also fuzzier. The most famous carded flannel item is the gray flannel trouser or the gray flannel suit, though beige, navy, brown, and green all exist. For trousers I recommend worsted flannel instead, because carded wears out too quickly. An overcoat works, but for winter only. Never a summer cloth.

Tweeds and Country Cloths

Herringbone

A broken twill characterized by a V-shaped pattern, often in wool or tweed, adding classic textural interest. A staple for overcoats and heavy sport coats, providing both visual weight and warmth, and a herringbone tweed jacket is a quintessential autumn and winter piece. Not ideal for trousers, where the pattern can read busy on the legs.

Cheviot Tweed

A heavier, stiffer tweed from the wool of Cheviot sheep, known for durability, resilience, and a slightly prickly hand. A true workhorse for outdoor pursuits where warmth and protection are non-negotiable, and a Cheviot overcoat will last a lifetime. Not for anyone who prefers soft, pliable cloth.

Donegal Tweed

Named for County Donegal in Ireland, and characterized by nepps, the colorful multi-hued flecks of wool woven into a plain or twill base. Typically medium to heavy wool, giving excellent warmth and a rustic, cozy texture. Perfect for bringing character to casual autumn outfits, and a Donegal sport coat is a must-have. Not for formal occasions, as the speckled nature is strictly casual.

Donegal Herringbone

A sophisticated hybrid combining the rhythmic V-weave of herringbone with the vibrant rustic flecks of Donegal. Usually 100% wool in a substantial weight, offering textural structure and visual depth at once. Highly valued for casual sport coats that feel sophisticated yet rugged, and particularly good for autumn outerwear. Not for formal suits or office attire.

Harris Tweed

A legendary handwoven cloth from the Outer Hebrides in Scotland. Thick, scratchy, and practically bulletproof against the elements, usually heavy weights of 100% virgin wool. The ultimate cloth for protection and heritage, and I’d recommend it for a classic hacking jacket, a standard sport coat, or an overcoat. Outside those contexts, I’m not convinced it’s worth it. It isn’t comfortable against bare skin, so wear it over a shirt or sweater. More in our tweed guide.

Barleycorn

A weave that creates a small, grainy, intricate texture resembling grains of barley. Typically mid to heavyweight wool, with a three-dimensional surface that absorbs light beautifully. An excellent choice for country jackets needing durability and character. Not ideal for trousers, where the weave can feel bulky and coarse against the skin.

Covert Cloth

More traditionally covert cloth, a mottled, multicolored, tightly woven twill. Historically used for covert coats worn riding or commuting, and famous for durability and hiding stains. Essential for an all-weather town coat, ideally a classic single-breasted topcoat. Not for suiting or sport coats, as its character is tied to heavy-duty outerwear.

Bedford Cord

A sturdy cloth that mimics real corduroy without the fuzz or pile. It isn’t made like corduroy at all but woven simply, and it isn’t as luxurious as the real thing. Often used for hunting and outdoor gear, not formal pieces.

Cavalry Twill

A heavy, steep-ribbed cloth originally designed for riding breeches. Typically 100% wool and exceptionally robust, known for withstanding intense friction, which makes it the gold standard for hardwearing trousers you’ll keep for years. Highly recommended for country trousers. Not suited to lightweight suiting, being far too heavy and stiff.

Whipcord

Similar to cavalry twill but with a more pronounced, rounded diagonal cord, usually heavy 100% wool. Prized for extreme durability and for holding its shape, and a fantastic choice for rugged trousers or a safari-style jacket. Not for fine suiting, as the prominent ribbing reads too casual for formal environments.

Business Suiting

Twill

Twill means diagonal lines in the weave, and because of those lines the cloth can be made heavier than the same yarns in a plain weave. It’s an overarching term covering many fabrics: drill, grosgrain, whipcord, and covert cloth are all twills. Used across menswear in shirts, trousers, suiting, overcoats, and casual jackets, and even traditional flannel is often woven as a twill. Twill balances comfort with structural integrity.

Hopsack

A loosely woven wool with an open basket weave that improves breathability while keeping a soft drape. Typically 100% wool or wool blends around 8 to 11 oz, striking a balance between structure and comfort. Especially valuable as a jacket cloth for business casual and travel thanks to its wrinkle resistance, and a navy hopsack blazer is a cornerstone garment. Not for very formal occasions, or for trousers needing a sharp crease, since the loose weave reduces crispness and suffers under friction.

Bird’s Eye

Named for the small repetitive diamond pattern that resembles a bird’s eye, adding depth and visual texture. Typically 100% worsted wool in a midweight, it gives you the interest of a pattern while remaining as versatile as a solid. Perfect for a professional suit that needs to stand out from the sea of navy and gray. Not for casual sport coats, as the weave suits sharp tailoring best.

Sharkskin

Woven with alternating colored yarns, often in a pick-and-pick pattern, creating a subtle shimmering two-tone effect. Ideally 100% wool in a midweight, bridging formal and business attire. Good for adding depth to a suit without resorting to overt checks, and I’d recommend it for an office suit with a little personality. Not for very conservative, high-stakes formal events where solid colors are expected.

Serge

A durable twill distinguished by a clear diagonal rib on both sides. Usually 100% worsted wool in mid to heavy weights, offering exceptional longevity and a clean, sharp look. The definitive cloth for a classic navy blazer, formal yet versatile. Too formal and structured for relaxed weekend wear.

Gabardine

A tough, tightly woven cloth with a distinct steep diagonal rib. Historically used for trench coats, now a staple for hardwearing trousers that hold a sharp crease, and highly valued for water resistance and durability. A gabardine trouser earns its place in a business wardrobe. Not for soft tailoring or drape styles, as it’s crisp and rigid by nature.

Escorial Wool

A rare wool from sheep with naturally curly fibers, producing cloth with remarkable spring and wrinkle recovery. Softer and more resilient than standard merino, which is itself already fine and soft. A top-tier choice for a travel suit that has to stay pristine on the move. Not cheap, and best reserved for high-end tailoring where performance and luxury both matter.

Barathea

A fine wool with a pebbled surface, traditionally used for formal wear thanks to its understated texture and matte finish. Typically 100% wool or wool blends in midweight, giving excellent depth of color, especially in black or midnight blue. Essential for classic evening garments such as a tuxedo jacket or formal trousers. See our black tie guide for how it fits the wider dress code. Not for casual wear or warm climates.

RECOMMENDED

Black Silk Barathea Self-Tie Bow Tie

Invited to something black tie? The bow tie that gives the dress code its name should be the one thing you don’t leave to a pre-tied clip. Silk barathea, butterfly shape, sized to your exact neck, and handmade in Italy.

Find Your Size

Shirtings

Oxford Cloth

A plain weave with either two warp threads, two weft threads, or both made into one, so you end up with a basket weave. It’s the backbone of the OCBD. Unless you buy white, the warp and weft are often different colors, giving you a changeant effect where the cloth appears to shift between two tones.

Typically finished a little softer, which makes it the perfect business casual shirt, though in an increasingly casual world it’s often the first and only shirt people buy. Traditionally not an evening cloth, purely because of the button-down collar. Can you get Oxford cloth without a button-down? Absolutely, but it’s rarer.

Royal Oxford

A cousin of traditional Oxford cloth, often in a smaller-scale weave, with yarns that are notably more lustrous. That makes it more popular for traditional business use, though it isn’t as hardwearing as a twill. Typically 100% cotton, usually with more texture than standard Oxford, which makes for a genuinely all-round business shirt.

Poplin

A tightly woven plain weave, typically cotton or cotton blends, known for a smooth surface and lightweight feel. Ideal shirting poplin is 100% cotton in light to midweight, offering crispness without bulk. Essential for dress shirts, and a white or light blue poplin shirt is a must-have. Not for heavy duty use or colder climates, lacking texture, warmth, and durability next to more robust cloths.

Broadcloth

A very tightly woven fine cotton with a smooth matte finish. The quintessential formal dress shirt cloth, giving a clean professional look under a suit, ideally in white or blue. Not for casual shirts, since the tight weave and smooth finish exist specifically for formal presentation.

Chambray

A plain weave cotton often confused with denim, but distinguished by a significantly lighter weight and softer hand. It typically features a colored warp and white weft, giving a soft heathered appearance. A staple of casual elegance, and a chambray shirt is essential in any man’s casual wardrobe. Not appropriate for formal dress shirts or business tailoring.

Viyella

A historic trademarked blend of 55% merino wool and 45% cotton, offering the warmth of the former and the comfort of the latter. You’ll find true Viyella only in vintage garments, as the original blend ceased manufacture around 1999. Perfect for high-quality, comfortable winter shirts that don’t feel too heavy, and the natural choice for a traditional Tattersall check. Not for formal attire, as its heritage is firmly country and casual sportswear.

Outerwear and Technical Cloths

Ventile

A trademarked name for a high-density, long-staple cotton weave that is naturally waterproof. The fibers swell when wet, sealing the cloth without synthetic coatings. Valued for breathability and rugged durability, and recommended for raincoats or field jackets you’ll wear in unpredictable weather. Not for formal wear or indoor apparel, as its purpose is strictly protection from the elements.

Wax Cotton

A fine plain weave cotton treated with paraffin wax for weather resistance. Think of the famous Barbour Bedale, made with cloth from the British firm Millerain. Ideal for field jackets and outerwear that can take some abuse and develop a beautiful patina. Trust me, this is not for indoor use, because the wax will rub off on your upholstery and look ugly. It also isn’t breathable, so you’ll overheat indoors.

Drill

An extremely hardwearing, heavy, durable twill, typically cotton. Traditionally used for uniforms, breeches, khakis, chinos, and heavy-duty workwear. Making drill requires genuinely high-quality yarns, and its workhorse nature also makes it excellent for safari jackets. The hand is stiffer than other cloths. The perfect fabric for anyone who wants something very classic that will wear for a long time. I like it for safari jackets and chinos.

Corduroy

Corduroy

A fantastic cloth in the same family as velvet, made in a very different way. Normally, you have two backing fabrics on top of each other with fibers pushed through, then the whole thing is cut apart in the middle, leaving two layers of velvet fabric. Cut the ridges into that and you get corduroy.

Sometimes called the velvet of the working man. A wonderful winter cloth, usually medium to heavy weight, soft and comfortable, and in higher qualities it lasts a very long time. Excellent for trousers or a full suit in the Ivy League academic register, and there’s no reason you can’t have the three-piece waistcoat in corduroy too.

Fort Belvedere Stancliffe Corduroy Trousers

Inspired by the Golden Age of Menswear, these corduroy trousers bring timeless tailoring into the present. Cut with a true high-rise waist, double-button waistband, and flapped coin pocket, they sit full through the leg and taper below the knee for a contemporary silhouette that reads pure elegance. The versatile 8-wale corduroy is milled in Italy and assembled in Portugal, honoring the finest traditions of English-heritage corduroy.

Find our entire collection here!

Neckwear and Accessory Fabrics

Grenadine

Grenadine is a special cloth because, unlike most others, it has holes and a genuinely great texture. It used to be made in silk, cotton, and other materials, but today it’s known almost entirely in silk. There are two principal kinds, garza fina and garza grossa, though many variations exist.

Faux grenadines are out there, but the real stuff is mostly made in Italy these days, and it’s typically more matte and less shiny. A fantastic business tie, and James Bond liked it. Not good for garments, because it doesn’t cope with friction and the threads pull easily. I wouldn’t recommend it for bow ties either, since your beard will pull the little threads and it’ll look ugly in short order.

Get the Grenadine

A grenadine tie is the rare piece that works with a business suit on Monday and a tweed jacket on Saturday. The texture does the work, so the tie never needs a pattern to hold its own. Available in solids and stripes.

Fort Belvedere

Navy Blue Grenadine Silk Tie

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Fort Belvedere

Brown Grenadine Silk Tie

Get This

Madder

A printing process rather than a weave, typically applied to silk. The muted colors come from a dye and discharge print finished with an alkaline wash, and that wash is what gives you the famous madder blue. Often you’ll see it on the reverse of the cloth as well as the face. It’s the pinnacle of understated, elegant neckwear with a British heritage.

The dusty, chalky hand comes from adding the original gum back into the silk, which under normal circumstances is stripped out completely. Madder isn’t shiny, it’s dull. It isn’t smooth, it’s a little chalky. And because of that it works beautifully with casual garments: think tweed and sport coats.

Personally I also like it with a plain navy business suit or gray flannel. Most known for neckties, but it also works for bow ties, ascots, scarves, a dressing gown, or even a lining. Its beauty lies in that earthy, matte, vintage feel.

Silk

A natural fiber known for smooth texture, natural sheen, and excellent drape. Quality silks vary in weight but are typically light and fluid, used pure or blended for durability. Important for adding elegance and visual richness, especially in accessories, and a silk tie or pocket square is indispensable for formal and business attire. Not for garments requiring durability or frequent washing, being delicate, vulnerable to moisture, and quick to show wear.

Where to Start

If you’re building a versatile wardrobe, start with a navy hopsack blazer and a pair of gray flannel trousers. Those are two of the most useful items a gentleman can own.

Which fabrics do you wear a lot, and which do you avoid? Let us know in the comments.

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Learn From This Guide

We’ve all been there. At a dinner party, a family gathering, or even a comment thread online, the conversation takes a turn. Politics, religion, money, any one of the countless topics people feel strongly about today. Amid raised voices and increasingly entrenched opinions, what began as pleasant conversation becomes something else entirely.

So let’s discuss how a gentleman navigates polarizing conversations. Not necessarily by avoiding them altogether, but by knowing how to engage with grace, restraint, and purpose.

What Makes a Conversation Polarizing

A polarizing conversation is one where the people involved hold views and opinions that are far apart from one another.

Traditionally, such conversations were confined to religion, politics, or personal finances. In the modern age, the list has grown considerably. People now hold strong opinions on nearly everything, from diet to parenting to which streaming service is worth the subscription.

Almost any topic can become polarizing if the people discussing it are entrenched enough in their positions. And given that our primary focus here at the Gentleman’s Gazette is classic menswear, we’ve certainly seen clothing choices fall into this category, too.

YES, THIS HAPPENS IN MENSWEAR

NO TOPIC IS SAFE

If a colleague says, “Brown shoes with a navy suit? Absolutely not. That’s a fireable offense,” you might reply: “That’s a strong stance for a Tuesday. Is that a hard rule for you, or does it depend on the shade of brown?”

A spirited debate in good faith can be deeply enjoyable. A nasty argument never is. So here are eight techniques to deftly navigate polarizing conversations.

1. Prepare Your Mindset Before the Conversation Begins

How you show up mentally, before a single word is exchanged, matters just as much as anything said during the conversation itself.

Remember two things. First, you cannot control what another person thinks or does. You can only control yourself. Second, it is not your job to change someone else’s mind. You are free to invite others to consider your perspective, but that is exactly what it is: an invitation. People are free to accept or decline it.

What This Sounds Like

Say you’re at a family reunion and your cousin has cornered you to rave about how he loves skinny ties. “I just think skinny ties are superior. It’s that minimalistic look, a little bit of a 1960s vibe.”

You’d do well to remember, to yourself: I can’t control whether Kevin ever changes his mind about tie width, but I’m actually curious why he’s so passionate about it.

Then you could say aloud: “That’s interesting. What got you into skinny ties? I’ve always preferred a more classic width, but I’d like to hear more about where your perspective was formed.”

This treats your cousin’s preference as something with a reason behind it, worth understanding, while allowing you to preserve your own. You don’t have to abandon your opinion. Just lead with curiosity about others before asserting it.

2. Check Your Intentions Before You Engage

Before engaging, ask yourself honestly: why am I in this conversation? Am I here to win, or am I here to learn?

Being open-minded doesn’t mean you have to roll over and automatically accept another person’s perspective. It means being willing to listen and understand where they’re coming from.

What This Sounds Like

If your friend says, “I don’t get why anyone would pay that much for a tweed jacket,” you could respond: “Fair enough. So I’m curious, how much would you typically spend on a single garment? And what might be the case where you’d make an exception? I’d genuinely like to hear your rationale.”

That response asks a real, specific question. It signals I want to understand your framework, not I’m about to make my case, and it leaves room for the other person to explain and defend his own choices later in the conversation. Form your responses to glean information rather than to score a point.

3. Ask Whether It’s Wise to Get Involved at All

Not every polarizing conversation requires or deserves your participation. This is especially true online, where comment sections and social media threads rarely reward nuance. Consider whether engaging will actually accomplish anything worthwhile before jumping into the fray.

What This Sounds Like

You find yourself scrolling a thorny comment thread titled “Are monk straps just Oxfords that gave up?” There are 300 replies and someone has just declared that shoe buckles are a sign of moral decay.

Stop and think: This is not the hill I’m going to die on. 

Then say to yourself: “That’s enough of that for today. I think I’ll go polish my own shoes. Monk straps included.”

4. Ask Whether It’s Wise to Continue

If the discussion feels like it’s going in circles or getting nasty, consider whether continuing benefits anyone. In other words, ask yourself what you’re actually getting out of it.

What This Sounds Like

“We’ve been debating pleated versus flat-fronted trousers for over twenty minutes, and it’s pretty clear neither of us is going to move an inch. But I understand why you like the clean line of flat fronts. I get where you’re coming from. Let’s leave it there and go find a decent old-fashioned.”

The other person will most likely say: “Now that I can agree to.”

5. Be Aware of Mirroring

Conversations tend to reflect what’s put into them. If you approach a discussion in a closed-minded way, expect others to fall into a similar stance. Avoid oversimplifying labels and personal attacks. And while sarcasm has its place in a light-hearted chat among friends, using it in a mean-spirited way will only sour things.

Conversely, a calm demeanor and neutral language tend to invite the same in return. Phrased another way: a gentleman is assertive when necessary, but never aggressive.

What This Sounds Like

Someone says indignantly, “Anyone who wears a pocket square is clearly overcompensating.”

You could calmly respond: “That’s a strong opinion. What’s behind that? A bad pocket square experience in your past, or just not your personal style?”

You’ve responded to the other person’s energy with calm and mild amusement, without returning fire. You’ve kept things civil rather than starting the great pocket square war.

6. Politely Paraphrase What You’ve Heard

Reflecting someone’s words back to them can be a powerful tool, but it should be used to achieve mutual understanding, not to patronize.

What This Sounds Like

Your conversational partner says, “I just think double-breasted suits are trying too hard.”

You could respond: “So based on everything I’ve heard so far, it seems you think wearing a double-breasted suit is more of a grab for attention than a wise sartorial choice. Does that sound about right?”

The other person will probably say, “Kind of, yeah.”

Now both members of the conversation are on the same page, the situation has lightened a little, and things can continue without either party being on edge.

7. When You Don’t Want to Add On, Simply Acknowledge

If you find yourself roped into a heated back-and-forth and don’t wish to add to the tension, you might be tempted to clam up and say nothing. The reality is that silence often isn’t an option. Staying totally quiet would not only be rude in its own way, it might introduce more awkwardness and add fuel to the fire.

In these moments, a simple acknowledgement of the other person’s feelings goes a long way. Something along the lines of “I hear you, it sounds like this is frustrating for you.” This shows basic respect without requiring you to agree or engage further than necessary.

The Standard Acknowledgement

An acquaintance at a party says, unprompted, “Can you believe people still iron a crease into their jeans? It’s an outrage.”

You might say: “I hear you, Gary. It sounds like ironed denim is something you’re very particular about.”

For those times when someone is aggressively trying to bait you into disagreeing, or to marshal you to their cause, you can employ what’s known as the gray rock technique: giving a flat, unbothered, deliberately uninteresting response.

The Gray Rock Technique

“Seriously, only a maniac would crease his jeans. Tell me you agree.”

You could simply say, in a flat tone: “That’s one way to look at it.”

“What? Come on, you have to have an opinion about this.”

“Denim can be worn in many different ways. Oh, it looks like the charcuterie board has just been refreshed.”

Note that in this example you’ve also given yourself, and anyone else involved, an out. The volume drops and everyone moves on to a different activity.

8. Look for Common Ground

This is a true mark of gentlemanly behavior. When a conversation is pulling you and the other person apart, look for something that brings you back together: shared values, shared concerns, or simply mutual respect.

What This Sounds Like

“We’re just not going to agree on whether cufflinks or button cuffs are best. But what I think we can agree on is that it’s important for people to present the best versions of themselves, dressing in a way that makes them feel confident and collected.”

The other person will likely say: “Well said. To dressing confidently.”

Your Reputation Is Built on What You Do Consistently

More than any single exchange, your reputation is built on what you do consistently. A gentleman doesn’t seek to win every conversation, but rather constantly strives for conversations that are edifying, valuable, and healthy.

How have you handled polarizing conversations in your own life? Have you employed any of these techniques, or others we didn’t list? Let us know in the comments below. And of course, keep things gentlemanly.

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One evening, pre-cocktails, I was flipping through the September 1962 edition of Esquire magazine when I came across something I had to share with you.

The article is titled “The Basic College Wardrobe,” and it exists as a foolproof packing list for the young collegiate gent heading off for his studies in the early sixties.

What’s so inspiring and so useful about this list is that by tailoring the items to fit your personal tastes, you can build an extremely solid collection of clothes. Let me show you how.

Why a Sixty-Year-Old Packing List Still Holds Up

A capsule wardrobe works on one principle: every piece has to earn its place by combining with the others. That’s exactly what this list does, and it does it without ever using the term.

The approach below isn’t about buying these items literally. It’s about treating the list as a template.

Where the original calls for four pairs of chinos, I’ve taken one. Where it calls for a stadium coat, I’ve gone somewhere else entirely. The structure survives the substitutions, which is the whole point.

Suits: Three Is the Right Number

Esquire's first call is a dark blue suit with a matching waistcoat.

I’m going to alter this to a double-breasted model, as it’s a little more formal and I can happily wear the jacket as a separate with the other items on the list.

Next, a medium gray flannel suit.

Here’s where I’ll add that waistcoat. As mine is a mid-gray flannel with a puppytooth pattern, each of these individual pieces will work nicely as separates. The discreet pattern and the patch pockets on the jacket make it easier to wear individually, too.

The third calls for a herringbone, diagonal, or neat pattern in tweed or Shetland.

The one I’ve chosen is a two-piece in a lovely ginger-toned herringbone, which works in tandem with everything else thus far.

Jackets: One Blazer, One Check

One navy blazer with brass buttons. As this is designed to stand on its own merit, I had to go for the king of blazer fabrics: hopsack. It’s an elegant open weave with a gorgeous texture that’s incredibly classic. And as the navy suit jacket is fully lined, I’m maximizing my options by having this blazer be half-lined, so I have a greater range of options across climates.

A checked, plaid, or striped Shetland or tweed jacket comes next. I’m going with a classic Glen plaid check with patch pockets. Not only is it a different pattern from the brown suit, it’s also a different shade, which increases my outfit options across the entire wardrobe.

Trousers, Chinos, and Shorts

One charcoal gray flannel and one medium gray flannel. I’ll add the plain charcoal pair, as they’re dark enough to work across the board, but I’ll skip the mid-gray and use the trousers from the puppytooth suit when needed.

A pair of dark olive trousers, which I’ve chosen in corduroy for added texture and depth of color.

Four pairs of tan chinos. Now, I’m not sure how often they went through their chinos in the 1960s, but one classic pair will suffice for me.

A pair of tan corduroys. I’m going to substitute a darker tan, more of a chestnut brown, so it’s noticeably different from the chinos.

Shorts will depend on your lifestyle, as the list calls for a pair of gym shorts. I’m not the most active person, so instead I’ll go for a classic style I can appreciate: the Madras check.

Fort Belvedere

Dark Olive Stancliffe Corduroy Trousers

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Fort Belvedere

Cognac Stancliffe Corduroy Trousers

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Outerwear: Where the List Shows Its Age

A natural-color poplin raincoat. With perhaps no surprises, for this choice it simply has to be the classic Burberry trench. Of course, a different style might be more to your taste, but this particular raincoat has endured for a reason.

A dark, dressy wool topcoat. I’ve opted for a classic navy overcoat in a single-breasted cut with a generous length, perfect for all formal occasions where an overcoat is required.

A stadium coat, meaning a shearling, duffel, or corduroy coat with pile fabric or quilted lining. This is where the list shows its age a little. Wanting to avoid any of the more dated shearling coat trends, I’ve instead picked up on the quilted lining aspect and gone for an olive-brown quilted coat from Barbour. Raphael swears by these for traveling in cooler weather, as they’re nice and light while still being very functional.

Shirts: Adjust the Quantities to Suit You

The list is generous here, and this is the category where I’d most encourage you to scale to your own needs.

Neckwear: The Most Versatile Category on the List

Quite the evergreen collection of ties.

Knitwear: Two Pieces, Maximum Range

One crew neck Shetland or brushed wool sweater. I’m going to go for a V-neck for added versatility. In this case, it’s hard to resist a cricket or tennis sweater in a lovely bottle green color, a surprisingly versatile option.

One cardigan in any color. I’m going to take liberty here and add a shawl cardigan in a Black Watch tartan. With the contrasting brass buttons, this becomes an incredible choice as a blazer alternative, perfect for days when you want to feel both dressed up and relaxed at the same time.

Footwear: Five Pairs That Cover Everything

1. Black or brown moccasin slip-ons. As slip-on shoes are typically more casual, I’ll add a pair of light brown loafers with a fun kiltie element to the design. Of course, a pair of classic tassel loafers would work nicely here, too.
2. A pair of plain-toe cordovan shoes. This is a particularly preppy choice, so I’m going to lean into that deep burgundy associated with shell cordovan by choosing a pair of plain-toe derbies. As far as classic, versatile shoes go, it’s very hard to beat this pair.
3. A pair of black wingtip laced shoes. Leaning on my British heritage, I’ll go for a pair of black quarter brogues. Think of them as the cap-toe oxford with a little added intrigue.
4. For evening wear, either black patent or polished calf. The latter would work very nicely if you want to maximize the bang for your buck, but I personally can’t resist the call for a pair of evening-specific shoes, so we’ll add a pair of black patent whole cuts.
5. Rubber-soled gym or tennis shoes. On the opposite end of the formality scale, I’ll substitute some classic boat shoes in lighter tones. Personally, these are just a touch dressier than canvas shoes, meaning a greater ability to wear them across the board.

Black Tie: One Dinner Suit, Done Properly

We’ve seen a few elements of black tie so far in the wardrobe, so let’s add the rest here.

A black year-round dinner suit with notch or shawl collar. The notch lapel is certainly an interesting choice for this article, so I’ve chosen a single-breasted peak lapel instead. Regarding the year-round nature, barathea wool in whatever weight is most comfortable for you is a timeless choice.

This option allows for a satin silk pleated cummerbund to be seen underneath and a matching bow tie on top. I’ve leaned into the 1960s feel by choosing a style of bow popular at the time: the batwing.

Minimalist Black Tie Bundle

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Hats: Three, and One Substitution

While I’m not usually much of a hat wearer, the list does call for three hats. Luckily, all these options are simple, stylish, and readily available.

One gray felt center-crease snap brim. One tweed or check wool cap. And one brushed felt Tyrolean. That last one may be a little dated, but in reality, mine is a short-brimmed Trilby in olive green. Surprisingly versatile.

Accessories: Belts, Braces, Socks, and Jewelry

Gloves is an area of the list that really shows the changing attitudes of the sixties toward boring glove colors.

Loungewear: Lounging Should Be Stylish, Too

Two pairs of pajamas, which I’ll reduce to one.

A plaid or solid flannel robe. I’ll be taking liberty by transforming this into an elegant velvet dressing gown with quilted elements and a sumptuous lining. After all, lounging should be stylish, too.

One pair of bedroom slippers. I’ll make this pair closer to house shoes, with a solid sole and heel. Maximum style and comfort.

Building Your Own Version

So there we have it: the ultimate gentleman’s wardrobe, by way of 1962.

How do you feel about this template? Is everything on the list something you already own, or have I given you some inspiration for your own collection? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below.

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