Getting More from the Outdoors

Paperless Catalogue Now Available

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Fri, 05 Sep 2008 12:08:00 +0000

Save a tree and view our camping and caravanning catalogue online!

Towsure's new online catalogue browser is easy to use, displays just like our "real" paper catalogue with the added advantage of being able to search for key words, zoom in for more detail, if you require, you can print off just the pages that interest you - or to browse later you can save to your hard drive as a pdf.

No special software is required other than a modern web browser with flash and javascript enabled (internet explorer will do just fine).

Of course, we realise that our catalogue is extremely popular and handy to have as an instant reference, so don't worry - we will continue to publish our annual free catalogue for those who prefer the tangible feel of a paper catalogue.

You can order our FREE current catalogue at www.towsure.com/bespoke/catalogue.htm for delivery to your home, but while you wait for the post, you can also view our electronic catalogue, which is laid out just like the printed version.

Or, if you would prefer to save paper, our electronic catalogue is instantly available online. Why not take a look now at http://viewer.zmags.com/showmag.php?mid=hhdsh&pageid=1

And of course, as soon as our 2009 catalogue is available, it will be published online for instant viewing!

Sheffield Cafe Now Open

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Fri, 02 May 2008 13:18:00 +0000

Following last year's flood damage, our Sheffield store cafe has now been refurbished and is now open once more. Completely revamped with all new furniture and a tempting menu of hot and cold sandwiches, panino, breakfasts and lunches, soups, daily specials, coffees and teas, all at sensible prices.

A sample of our menu is below (prices correct at time of blog publication and subject to future change). Not included on this menu are our daily specials, which include mouthwatering meals such as mild chicken curry & rice, traditional cottage pie, homestyle meat and potato pie, and a varying soup of the day, with children's menu items available too.

So why not make your trip to Towsure's Sheffield Superstore a real day out, after your journey or before travelling home, relax and enjoy a coffee or a meal, 7 days a week. Hot food is served until 3.45pm Monday-Sat, and 2.45pm Sunday (Breakfasts served until 1pm).

Bon Appetit!

Survey Results being compiled

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Fri, 07 Dec 2007 09:52:00 +0000

Over the last few months you may have seen or entered our website useability survey on towsure.com.

The survey is now closed and entries are still being compiled. Once all results are entered in the database, a winning entry chosen at random will receive a brand new easi-porch awning.

Due to a fantastic response have been snowed under with entries and hope to be able to draw a winner next week.

Thank you to all who entered and we are looking carefully at all comments/suggestions made.

One subject that received very mixed responses was the subject of Verified by Visa / Mastercard Securecode / 3D Secure - the new security system marketted as "chip & pin for online". Some respondants feel completely comfortable with this new system, many others were unsure, and a large proportion do not understand the new system at all - and this is hardly surprising since it is still being rolled out and information given to customers about the system by many banks and card issuers has been sparse or non-existant.

One thing that seems certain is that the system will be required sooner or later as card issuers exert pressure on retailers. Therefore we will be introducing this to our checkout in the near future. We don't want you to find shopping with us a struggle - With the lack of clear information out there for the customer, we will endeavour to introduce this as painlessly as possible with information about the new system before we introduce it.

Caravanning in Winter

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Thu, 15 Nov 2007 11:38:00 +0000

In our last guide we looked at preparing your caravan for winter storage. But there is no rule that says that you can't enjoy your caravan all the year round. Modern caravans with all their comforts are comfortable and warm homes whatever the weather outside.

Towing a caravan in the winter is however more challenging than in the summer however, so new caravanners may wish to get a few seasons of summer touring under their belts before venturing out into the wilds of winter.

If you are considering winter touring however - there are a few essential items you should carry with you, in addition to the regular inventory of summer accessories, and those pre-journey safety checks are vital.

BEFORE SETTING OFF:

Always check the condition and pressure of tyres - on the car and caravan, and including the spare. (Although this check applies whatever the season or the weather)

Ensure that your towcar's antifreeze level is adequate - temperatures in the countryside can drop harshly. Your local garage will be able to check and top up if necessary, your antifreeze, or for those who enjoy self-reliance, a motor factor will be able to supply a simple antifreeze hydrometer quite cheaply. Carry spare antifreeze with you - if you need to top up your coolant water for any reason, you must add antifreeze too, following the mixture ratio on the antifreeze bottle.

Ensure your screenwash is fully topped up. This means topped up with screenwash and water, mixed to the ratios on the screenwash bottle, which as well as cleaning, resists freezing. DO NOT mix coolant antifreeze with the screenwash - this can damage or strip your vehicle's paintwork.

Check your oil, power steering fluid and all other fluid levels.

Check the condition of your vehicle's battery and alternator. Again, a local garage should be able to perform this check. Batteries take far more punishment in the cold weather so it is vital that both the vehicle battery and charging systems are in tip-top condition.

Check all vehicle and caravan lights - and carry a good selection of spare bulbs and fuses. Good lighting is imperative in poor weather conditions. Periodically check all lights throughout your journey - a two minute check when leaving a service station stop could prevent an accident.

If you use butane gas, remember that this liquefies ("freezes") quicker than propane. Consider switching to propane bottles and regulator if possible, otherwise cooking and heating may become difficult.

CARRY WITH YOU:

Your mobile phone. Ensure it is fully charged. If you have two phones, consider keeping one switched off for use as an emergency phone only. An Emergency Mobile Phone Charger allows topping up of flat telephone batteries if no other power is available.

Ensure you also have your breakdown association's phone numbers to hand. And double-check that your subscription is active.

A good quality ice scraper to clear frozen windows.

A bright torch with spare batteries. A Wind Up Torch is also a good power-free emergency item.

Grip Tracks are great for gaining initial traction on slippery grass. However they can slip on packed ice - a piece of old carpet makes a good traction surface as an alternative to expensive bridging ladders (waffles). Though carpet should be a last resort as it has to be packed up and carried when wet - grip tracks can be easily wiped dry.

A good quality shovel.

A comprehensive First Aid Kit

Your caravan wardrobe should include warm clothing and extra blankets. Also carry some of this warm clothing and blankets in your car, should you get stuck on an excursion or for any reason be unable to access your caravan.

Some Bubble Wrap - available from most good stationary or office suppliers. This makes great emergency insulation. This can be used to line lockers to retain warmth and prevent overnight damp - but ensure all airvents are kept free and unblocked.

A Porch Awning is more suited to winter use than a full-size awning which can get weighted down by snow or heavy rain. A porch also provides an excellent area for taking off muddy or wet boots before entering the caravan. If you intend to take an porch, take with you heavy duty pegs such as metal thread pegs in case of strong winds - and also to allow them to be inserted into hard frozen ground.

WHILST ON-SITE

Fill your kettle every night before going to bed. Should your water have frozen, you will still be able to have a hot drink on a cold morning.

Bring your water carrier into the caravan every night. If you really don't have room for it, wrap it in a Jacket with a double layer of bubble wrap to help insulate it and prevent freezing. Wrap some pipe lagging (from any DIY store) around the inlet hose.

DO NOT be tempted to block vents to keep in the warmth. Vents do allow a little cold air in but vitally, they allow condensation to escape and prevent expensive damp problems.

Don't forget your waste water container. That can freeze too - a major inconvenience when trying to empty it. As for the water carrier, wrap it in a jacket of bubble wrap and if there is room, stand it on a polystyrene block. Pour salt into the tank to help prevent freezing. Adding antifreeze is not recommended for it's effect on the environment when it is disposed of.

Sheffield Refurb Well Under Way

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Thu, 25 Oct 2007 15:39:00 +0000

Some of you may be wondering just when our Sheffield Towsure Superstore will re-open following the floods of this summer. To be honest, we have often wondered the same. The sheer volume of water not only caused damage to fixtures and fittings but also saturated walls, floors and foundations meaning a frustrating wait until surveyers deemed the building to be dry enough to begin reconstruction work.

The new floor (with improved water resistance just in case!) has now been laid and the back wall renovated. The carpet laying in the main showroom area has been almost completed and the new display stands have begun to take shape.

We noted that many commented that lighting could be improved upon, and the new, bright racking should also provide a lighter environment.

Click here or on the image to view an enlarged panorama of our showroom progress

Whilst there is still much to do, with the floor and structural work now completed we hope to have our main showroom open mid to end of November 2007.

We have also taken advantage of the complete re-fit to install a new dedicated customer service area in a more accessible location near to the entrance.

Our tent showroom will take a little longer: Behind the temporary wall erected in our main showroom, the tent and awning area is still a sorry sight and will re-open during early 2008. There is good news however - this has been sidelined until the main area is open, so that it can have a complete refit to be even brighter and better than before. With new "sectioned" shelving around the outside edges to make it easier to group all related products together and making it easier to find everything you need.

We hope to see you there when we re-open and are sure that you will love the all-new Sheffield superstore with all the improvements the flooding disaster has given us the opportunity to install.

And now for something......a little bit different

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Sun, 14 Oct 2007 16:02:00 +0000

The internet is a marvellous place for finding all kinds of new things, old things and wacky things. That can also be a downside...there you are happily surfing away at something completely innocuous, then you click a link and see something that you never thought of before, and now you want one!

With a little tidying, what a stunningly different camper this would be!

Isn't it lovely? Or am I just slightly crackers?

And the best bit of it is the price...a mere 2'533 Euros - at today's exchange rate that's approximately £1765 - and that's before the haggling! I'm assured that the translated text of the advertisement states renewed/reconditioned engine, gearbox,differential, rear axle shafts, brakes and an LPG conversion, with a mere 45000 miles on the clock. Of course, there's the getting it back, the registration and so on which all costs, but it'd be sure to turn heads on-site.....

This quirky beast is a Skoda 1203 camper, built of course in pre-Volkswagen days. And stepping inside it would show that, without a doubt. I'm thinking that the rarity of it might be worth one of those "It's a Skoda - honest" stickers that VW plastered all over their new models. Don't expect blistering performance either, even for a camper van, with more or less the same long-running 1289cc engine that featured in the rear-engined Estelles and continued to be installed even in VW days in their Felicia

Did Czechoslovakians really love the colour brown before the velvet revolution? Or was it just a case of "any colour you like as long as it's brown?"

Hmm...maybe a little interior design needed, but then again, would it not be a shame to change it TOO much from the original?

I doubt we'll see any of these beasties at any of this season's Caravan and Motorhome Shows though. And where would all the new-fangled TV, DVD, Washing machine and all the rest of it go?

How to fit a 7-way bypass relay

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Fri, 12 Oct 2007 12:11:00 +0000

For both people undertaking fitting a towbar for the first time, and those who have fitted a towbar previously and are considering fitting a towbar to a modern car, the prospect of wiring the towing electrics may seem daunting at first.

Many modern vehicles cut down on weight, size and volume of the wiring looms by using electronic control systems to operate the vehicle's lights. You may hear these systems referred to as "multiplexed" or "CAN-Bus" systems, which all sounds quite complicated. In some ways the systems are complex, but it is not necessary to have a complete understanding of these systems in order to fit towing electrics. This guide does not set out to give such a complete understanding, rather to give a general idea of the nature of the systems - it should not be viewed as an electronics textbook, indeed the vaguaries of the guide may seem incorrect to the expert - however the expert is not who this guide is aimed at.

A printable PDF version of this post is available from www.towsure.com

So what are "multiplexed" and "CAN-Bus" systems?

The term CAN-Bus refers to a Controlled Area Network which, to the DIY towbar fitter means absolutely nothing. It is easier to visualise using the term "multiplex". Essentially, these systems carry low-current and sometimes low voltage signals from the lighting controls down to the lights, which "tell" the vehicle lights what to do. The signal wires may also carry varying signals, for instance in the case of a single brake/tail light bulb, it's single signal wire can carry 2 signals - one instructing the bulb to light at low intensity, the other when the brakes are operated to light the bulb at high intensity. These signals when examined with a simple circuit tester with a filament bulb appear to be constant signals, however they may be rapid pulses of electrical current, which are faster in frequency than the time a bulb takes to illuminate - and may be faster than discernable with the human eye, so the signal appears constant.

This causes the fitter a problem in that the trailer or caravan lighting is traditional filament lighting with one wire per function and is not designed with these "multiplexed" systems in mind. What is needed is a way of "translating" the vehicle's pulsed shared signals into constant 12 volt supplies to each light on the trailer or caravan.

The 7-way smart bypass relay does the job of translating these signals and is a simple in-line fit between the towbar wiring and the vehicle loom. The fitter need not have an in depth understanding of the "multiplexed" system - the smart bypass relay's inbuilt microchip does all that. Fitting is very straightforward.

How the relay works

A relay sounds complex but essentially it is simply an electrically operated switch. Imagine a push-button switch. When your finger pushed the switch, power is allowed through the switch (ON). When your finger is removed, power is blocked through the switch (OFF). Now visualise that switch but replacing your finger for an electrical wire. When power is sent down the wire, this "pushes" the switch, turning the relay on. When the power down the "finger" wire is removed, the relay switch is turned off. The 7-way bypass is a miniature bank of 7 of these electrically operated switches. When fitted it has a main 12 volt power supply into the 7-way unit, and 7 output wires leading to the towbar's electric socket. Also into the relay are 7 "switching" wires which connect to the vehicle's lighting circuits. When for instance the brake is operated, a tiny current from the vehicle's brake light comes into the relay and switches the towbar's brake light circuit on. Power is then allowed through from the main 12 volt relay supply wire, and out of the relay to the towbar electric socket's brake light wire. When the brake lights on the car go off, there is no current into the relay's brake light switching wire, so the power to the trailer brake light is switched off.

Fitting the bypass relay.

The traditional way of wiring in a towbar's electrics was to take each of the lighting wires to its corresponding wire on the car (i.e. Blue for foglight to foglight wire on car, Brown for right tail light to right tail light on car and so on). Since the vehicle's signal wires are incompatible and of too low a current rating to supply each light in this way, the bypass relay is simply fitted in between. The principle of connecting remains almost the same.

A simple direct connection installation to a non-"multiplexed" vehicle

Installation using a bypass relay is not far removed from the direct connection method. The relay is simply positioned between the socket and the point of connection to the vehicle

Step-By-Step Installation

1) Firstly feed the 7 core cables from the towbar sockets into the vehicle, making sure the cable is kept well away from the vehicle exhaust and at the side where the main vehicle loom runs (Note that some vehicles have a loom which splits into left and right at the front of the car and is fed down both sides - in which case choose the side where the foglight -and reverse when fitting a grey supplementary socket- wiring is located. On these "split loom" systems it will be necessary to extend some of the wires to make the connections to the functions on the opposite side of the vehicle where the towbar wiring is installed.)

Strip the outer insulation of the 7-core cable/s by approximately 3 inches - then strip 3-4mm from the insulation of each individual wire. Take the smart bypass relay, and insert each of the following wires from the BLACK 7-core cable into the screw terminals of the relay, and tighten the screw. Ensure that no stray strands of wire are protruding from the terminals and also that there is no un-insulated bare wire visible once the connection has been made.

Relay Terminal	Insert wire colour
1 (L/H Indicator)	Yellow
2 (Foglight)	Blue
4 (R/H Indicator)	Green
5 (R/H Tail)	Brown
6 (Stop Lights)	Red
7 (L/H Tail)	Black
8/R (Reverse)	Yellow from Grey 7-Core*
* Only where Grey supplementary socket is fitted. Note there is no terminal number 3 - pin 3 designation relates to earth and is connected to the vehicle bodywork. On some variants of bypass relay, terminal 5 and 7 are combined, in which case both the black and the brown wires from the 7-core cable are inserted into the shared single terminal

TT Terminal:
Some variants of the relay have a terminal marked "TT". This allows a dash-mounted warning light to be fitted instead of the built-in buzzer as an option. Normally this is not used and is NOT an earth terminal!

2) You will notice that there are 8 (9 on some relays depending on manufacturer) wires coming out from the relay which apart from the grey wires, match the colours of the wires in the black 7-core cable. These colours are the standard colours for towbar wiring - unfortunately there is no such standard for vehicle lighting wiring colours.

An assistant sitting in the driving seat is useful at this stage as we begin to identify the vehicle's wiring. You will also need a notepad and pen.

Make sure that if the vehicle lights have been removed or disconnected whilst fitting the towbar; they are re-connected and functioning correctly, replacing any blown bulbs if any are noted before proceeding - faulty lights will lead to a faulty towbar installation.

Switch on the vehicle's left indicator and test the wires leading to the left hand wiring loom with your circuit tester. The wire on which your tester visibly flashes in time with the indicator light will be the feed wire for the indicator. Make a note of which wire this is (i.e. L/H indicator = Blue).
Now switch on the vehicle's side lights. Test the wires again at the left side and find the wire showing a positive voltage. Now turn the side lights off. If that wire is now showing no voltage, this will be the feed for the left hand sidelight. Now operate the brake lights. If this sidelight wire again shows a positive voltage higher than that for the side light (or the LED lights brighter) then this is a shared feed for both the brake and the side lights. Make a note of this.
Identify the right hand indicator in the same way as for the left and again make a note.
If the sidelight feed is not a shared feed with the brake lights, identify the right hand sidelight.
If the sidelight feed is not a shared feed with the brake lights, operate the brakes and identify the brake light wire - this only needs doing for one side of the vehicle.
Operate the foglight and identify the feed.
If a grey supplementary socket is fitted, identify the reversing light feed.

3) You are now ready to begin connecting the relay signal wires to the wires identified according to the following table

Relay Wire	Connect to: (on vehicle)
Yellow	Left Indicator
Blue	Foglight
Green	Right Indicator
Brown	Right Tail Light
Red	Stop Light
Black	Left Tail Light
Grey*	Reverse Light*
* Only where Grey supplementary socket is fitted. On some variants of the relay there may be two grey wires - in this case connect one of the grey wires (either - it is not important which) to reverse. The other grey wire goes to Earth on the vehicle body

Important!
Thin wires twisted tightly together signify CAN-Bus control wires. These wires should not be connected to or otherwise interfered with - not even with a circuit tester.

4) The relay does not use the car's lighting circuits to power the trailer lights, only to switch them. Power comes from an independent power supply into the relay. From the battery's +ve terminal - or from a main 12v power supply to the fusebox or a power distribution rail (often under the dashboard), connect a wire of minimum current rating 21Amps to the relay's screw terminal marked 12v or +12V I/P(input). This is the power supply wire for the trailer lighting and should be fused at 15Amps (a maximum of 20Amps - see the instructions accompanying the relay). Install the fuseholder as close to the battery (or fusebox power take-off point) as possible. Do not insert the fuse yet.

5) To a suitable earth point on the metal vehicle body take the following wires: White from Black 7-core cable. White from Bypass relay. Both white and black wires from the Grey 7-core cable (if grey supplementary socket is fitted). For bypass relays with two grey wires, also earth the remaining grey wire. Use ring terminals to make a sound electrical earth connection - look for an existing earthing point and use that if one already exists otherwise it may be necessary to drill a small hole, bare the metalwork and use a small bolt or self-tapping screw to make the earth connection.

6) Make a final check of all your connections

7) Insert the fuse for the relay's power supply wire, plug your trailer, caravan or lighting board into the socket/s and check that all road lights are functioning correctly.

Troubleshooting:

Problem	Solution
Vehicle has only one wire feeding both the brake and side lights	Disregard both the brown and black wires from the relay and connect only the red wire to this shared wire on the loom. The relay will operate the side and brake lights from this single signal. Tape up the brown and black wires.
The vehicle has only one wire feeding both the side lights and fog lights	As above, disregard both the brown and black wires from the relay and connect only the blue wire to this shared wire on the loom. The relay will operate the side and fog lights from this single signal. Tape up the brown and black wires.
Buzzer sounds continuously	TT terminal connected to earth. Disconnect
Relay "Sticks" leaving one light permanently on	Mixed signals to relay during installation and testing. Remove power supply fuse for a few minutes, then replace, to reset the relay
Relay appears not to function	a) Installer error. Re-check all connections b) Car battery low - Run engine to charge battery then re-test c) (New unregistered vehicles) Check that full pre-sale CPU download has been completed.
(Rover 75) Relay initially appears to fail on fitting	After completing the installation, reset the vehicle's checking system by turning every road light (including fog/reverse) on and off.

(Vauxhall Vectra) 10/15 second regular "tick" when vehicle off and number plate courtesy light still on	Normal reaction to car's checking system. No fault. Tick stops when courtesy light extinguishes.

WARNING!
Always refer to the instructions accompanying the relay supplied, as there may be minor differences in exact specification between relays manufactured by different companies.

How to use Electrical Snap Connectors

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Fri, 12 Oct 2007 12:06:00 +0000

Electrical Snap Connectors are a quick, easy and convenient way of connecting two wires without the need for stripping the insulation or soldering, and importantly to the towbar fitter, allows a wire to be spliced into an existing circuit without cutting the vehicle's wiring in order to make the connection. Their simplicity makes them ideal for the DIY user who may not be an expert in making electrical connections. When the wires to be connected are placed in the snap connector and the metal connecting strip closed, the insulation is automatically cut at the point of connection leaving the wire intact. The insulating flap is then closed, making a sound, insulated electrical connection in seconds.

There are different sized snap connectors, coded by their colour, for different size and current rating of wires. The connectors most commonly used in towing and other automotive applications are (maximum) 10 Amp (Red), 20 Amp (Blue) and 35 Amp (Yellow). The blue connector is the most commonly seen as until recently most wires to functions likely to be connected to by the towbar fitter or DIY accessory installer were between 8-15 Amp.

A printable PDF version of this post is available from www.towsure.com

On modern vehicles using electronic signal wires, wires are a much narrower gauge and the 10 Amp red connector is increasingly common. The larger yellow connectors are more commonly used for connecting to heavier wires such as power supplies to split charge relays on the grey S-Type towbar socket.

It is important to use the correct size connector for the wires to be joined. A connector too small will not only cut through the insulation, but also through the inner strands of wire, making the wire weaker and lowering the current rating at that point. The connector may also be inadequately insulated. A connector too large may only just grab the insulation and not strip the wire, leading to either no connection or an intermittent connection.

The most common use of a snap connector is to join a wire onto an existing complete circuit. The snap connector has two wire channels. The outer channel is open the length of the connector, allowing it to be clipped over the wire to be connected to. The inner channel you will notice is insulated at one end with a "stop". The new wire to be introduced is fed into the open end of the inner channel.

Make sure the newly connected wire is butted up to the "stop" in the channel. If the wire is not inserted fully, the metal connecting strip may "miss" the wire or only nip the end, leading to a failed connection. Hold the wires steady in their channels and squeeze the connecting strip into place with pliers.

Fold the plastic insulator over the top of the connecting strip and clip it closed

The resulting connection is tidy and insulated. The insulating cover serves both to insulate the connection and to keep the connection locked together.

When connecting two "open" wires together with a snap connector, the two wires to be joined should be fed into the connector side by side. Make sure no wire is protruding from the outer channel as there is no insulating stopper. It is a good idea to tape over the end of the connection once made. inserting the wires this way means that the connection is not likely to be broken if the wires are put under tension.

Fitting a Cycle Lighting Board

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Fri, 12 Oct 2007 11:59:00 +0000

When carrying cycles or any other load which obscures the vehicle's lights and/or registration plate, a suitable lighting board and approved number plate must be fitted to the load. Obscured lights or number plates can incur a fine of up to £2500 and penalty points added to the driver's licence

A printable PDF version of this post is available from www.towsure.com

Obscuring means any object placed in the normal field of view of the lights and number plate. This includes cycle wheels, regardless of whether the lights can be seen through the spokes of the wheel.

Fitting a lighting board to a towbar-mounted cycle rack is straightforward as the towbar will also feature an electrics socket into which the lighting board is plugged into. The lighting board is then securely attached to the rack or the cycles by means of a strap, and you are ready to drive away - legally.

When using a strap-on cycle carrier on a standard car however, no such provision exists to power a lighting board - indeed it is usually users of a strap-on rack that are most commonly prosecuted. Lack of a facility to power a lighting board does not remove the obligation to use one whenever carrying cycles on the rear. However it is fairly straightforward - and cheap - to install a socket for your lighting board, without fitting a complete towbar to the vehicle.

FITTING A 7-PIN SOCKET FOR A LIGHTING BOARD.

Parts Required:

7-pin N-Type Trailing Socket (Part Code S98B)
Audible Monitor Relay* (Part Code H100)
9 electrical snap connectors (or your preferred electrical connection) (Part Code S8)
1 Ring terminal (Part Code W511 for terminal crimping kit)
Cable Ties (Part Code C84) & PVC Tape (Part Code P3)
*If your car has a multiplexed or CAN-bus wiring system on the vehicle lighting circuits, a full smart bypass relay containing an integral audible buzzer must be fitted to protect the electrical systems

INSTALLATION.

Overview:

Rather than mounting the electric socket outside the car under the bumper as is the norm for a towbar, the socket is usually mounted inside the boot. A trailing socket is the most common installation as it is the least invasive and can often be coiled up neatly inside a luggage/first aid boot compartment if one exists. It is possible to mount a standard towbar socket to the interior trim but this means making holes in the trim to mount the socket and to feed the cable through. Which socket you use is a matter of user preference, but should be mounted somewhere where it is safe from accidental damage from loading etc.

When in use, the cable of the lighting board is fed through the boot lid into the boot and plugged together inside the car. Most vehicle's door seals are flexible enough to allow the cable to pass through and the boot to be closed without damaging the cable, which is the method used in this guide. In rare circumstances where this is not possible, an alternative mounting arrangement must be fabricated outside the vehicle - behind or below the rear bumper, and the cable fed into the vehicle through either a convenient grommet or by drilling a hole and sealing the hole with a grommet. This will often require a longer length of 7-core cable.

Assembling the socket & cable:

Open the N-type socket and loosen the grubscrews on each of the 7 pins and also the cable securing strap. Pass first the cable through the socket's rubber grommet then through the socket body. Remove about 1 inch of the outer insulation of the cable, then strip each of the 7 wires by about 3-4mm.

Insert each wire into the 7 pins as per the diagram (viewed from the connecting side of the socket) and tighten the grubscrews.
Tighten the cable securing strap to prevent the wires being pulled from the pins, close the cover of the socket. Tighten the cover screws and finally the knurled plastic nut securing the rubber grommet over the cable exit hole.

	Pin 1	Yellow
	Pin 2	Blue
	Pin 3	White
	Pin 4	Green
	Pin 5	Brown
	Pin 6	Red
	Pin 7	Black

Connecting to the vehicle:

Identify which side of the vehicle the wiring loom runs. Install the socket on that side of the vehicle wherever possible. Note that on some vehicles the loom splits at the front of the vehicle and runs to the rear lights down each side of the vehicle. In this case, establish which side of the vehicle has the foglight wiring (usually the offside, but on vehicles with foglights in the tailgate the wire may be on the nearside) and installation may require an extra length of twin-core cable to connect to the functions on the opposing side to the installation.

(For Multiplexed or CAN-Bus systems using a bypass relay see additional guide on fitting a full bypass relay)

Strip about 3 inches of the outer insulation from the 7-core cable. Do not strip the individual wires. (This guide uses snap-connectors for installation. If using alternative connections, stripping the wires may be necessary depending on the style of connector)

Firstly, connect the audible monitor relay:

Take the yellow and green wires on the relay and connect each to their matching coloured wire on the 7-core cable with snap connectors. To prevent "pulling apart" of the connection, it is advisable to inset both wires into the snap connector from the same direction.

Now, connect to the vehicle:

From the audible monitor:
Connect the orange wire to the vehicle's left indicator.
Connect the grey wire to the vehicle's right indicator.
From the remaining wires on the 7-core cable:
Connect the blue wire to the vehicle's foglight.
Connect the brown wire to the vehicle's offside tail light.
Connect the red wire to one of the vehicle's stop lights.
Connect the black wire to the vehicle's nearside tail light.
Finally earth the installation to bare metal on the vehicle bodywork:
Using a ring terminal on the white wire from the 7-core cable, and the remaining wire (black or white depending on the brand of relay) from the audible monitor relay, connect these wires to a suitable earth point on the metal bodywork. Some vehicles have a convenient existing earth terminal near the light cluster, otherwise use a bolt or self-tapping screw to bared metal for a good connection.

To establish which wire corresponds to each function, it is useful to have an assistant sat in the driving seat, operating each function in turn. Use a simple test light with bulb and a test probe at the wires entering the rear light clusters to find the live wire when a particular lighting function is switched on. Double check by having your assistant turn the function off - the test lamp should also go off. (Note for multiplexed / CAN-Bus vehicles an LED test lamp or digital multimeter should be used, and the vehicle lights must remain connected during installation)

CHECKING THE INSTALLATION.

Plug your lighting board into the trailing socket and position where it can be seen from the driver's door. Turn on each function in turn and verify that the lighting board displays correctly. To check that the earth connection is sound, be sure to check the board with tail lights, stop lights and indicators on simultaneously. When indicators are on, the light from the stop and tail lamps should be bright and constant, and not fluctuate noticably as the indicators flash. Severe dimming with numerous functions on is a sure sign of a bad earth connection on the white wire from pin 3 of the socket to the earthing point on the bodywork.

When the indicators are operated, the audible monitor relay should sound in time with the indicators. This allows the driver to confirm that the indicators are functioning correctly, in the same way as the dash mounted light confirms operation of the car's indicators. If no sound is heard from the monitor during testing when either indicator is operated, the installation of the monitor is probably at fault. Check that the yellow and green wires from the 7-core cable are connected ONLY to the yellow and green wires from the monitor. The only wires connecting to the vehicle's indicator wires should be the orange and the grey wires from the monitor.

In use, if the indicators are operated and no buzz is heard, this indicates either a fault on the lighting board or an incorrectly connected or disconnected plug.

FINALISING THE INSTALLATION.

Once installation is successfully completed and checked, wrap any connections in PVC tape. The buzzer should be secured to the loom with tape or cable ties. To prevent pulling the connections whilst using your new lighting socket, use a cable tie to secure the 7-core cable to the loom or bodywork.

Coil the cable away in a convenient place where it will be safe from damage from loading. The metal loop of the inline socket can be used to hang the socket from if a convenient hanging location exists.

High Performance Motor Movers - A real head-turner

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:18:00 +0000

Motor movers are useful devices, taking the strain out of manually manouevering your caravan into a tight space. If budget is limited, the manually powered hitchdrive offers a great alternative.

The only thing is - they can be just so blooming slow!

This turbocharged motor-mover is sure to turn heads on-site! Just make sure not to turn up late at night - this prototype is a little noisy!

The Enduro Caravan Mover for single-axle caravans is a little more sedate, but much quieter and more user-friendly!

Why you should always check your caravan weights

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:01:00 +0000

I'm sure many of you will have already seen this video on youtube, but for those that haven't - there's no "what happens next" prize I'm afraid.

There is of course a serious side to this video which shows only an extreme case. But a badly loaded or overweight caravan is still dangerous - even if it's not taken to the same extreme. Not only overloading but also a bad overall outfit match. Whilst a caravan stabiliser is a useful safety aid, it is not intended to combat a poorly-matched outfit.

A noseweight gauge is a useful device to check your loading before you set off, to ensure that the caravan noseweight is at an optimum for your towcar. Too heavy or too light - both can have consequences for handling. But noseweight is not the only issue - and a nose-heavy caravan should not be compensated for by counterbalancing heavy weights at the rear - imagine towing a see-saw down the motorway!

Towsure, in conjunction with whattowcar.com have a handy outfit matcher - simply select from your car and caravan model, and follow the options on the next screen to get a good idea of compatibility.

How well will it tow?

with whattowcar.com

Choosing a Camping Stove

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 14:58:00 +0000

If you're camping, some kind of camping stove is a necessity - unless of course you enjoy cold beans! For the caravanner equipped with a fully-featured cooker and grill, a camping stove is still a useful and fun way of staying out of doors to make the most of summer weather. Maybe it is a psychological thing, but there always seems to be a different taste to food cooked out of doors, and with it a real sense of "getting away from it all". Of course if you spilled the methylated spirits into the sauce, then the taste difference is a little clearer - in which case it's perhaps best to abandon plans for the night's tea and perhaps find some pub grub where you can enjoy both your food and alcohol, but served in different containers!

A printable PDF version of this post is available from www.towsure.com

What kind of stove you choose depends on four main factors

How many people you will be cooking for
What kind of meals you will be cooking
Where will the stove be used and under what conditions
How you are travelling - what space you have and what weight you can carry

Family camping stoves:

The most commonly used types of stove for family camping are those that operate from gas - campingaz, butane or propane. These come in all sizes from small folding stoves that usually operate from a small gas cartridge, typically with one single ring, or alternatively a grill stove such as the FB GRILL - to double ring and grill units which operate from a larger refillable gas bottle and are more suited to cooking for a family campsite meal. Gas barbecue/grills can be very versatile with different pans, plates and attachments to cook all kinds of hearty meals - not just the burger, sausage and token bit of veg on a cocktail stick kind of barbecue.

Most "family campsite" camping does not necessitate a great degree of portability with the cooking equipment, so unless the stove were to be carried on walks, picnics etc, the cartridge stove is not usually suitable. The largest item when using refillable gas bottles is usually the gas bottle itself - although it is not necessary to carry a huge"torpedo" gas bottle, even the small ones are too bulky to carry around. Most stoves of this kind will operate on either butane, propane or campingaz, although the correct regulator for the type of gas bottle must be fitted.

Either propane or butane are cheaper than campingaz - the 2.75kg butane is a good choice for the camper, not too heavy and bulky to store, whilst the caravanner will probably already carry a 7 or 13kg bottle, thus will simply choose a regulator to suit the gas bottle already carried. In the UK, propane/butane refills are easy to source and reasonably priced. For camping outside the UK however, it is not possible to source UK-style propane/butane bottles - so the trip abroad will necessitate a regulator for campingaz.

In the UK, unless you are camping in conditions below 5 degrees celsius, butane is a good choice. Butane will start to lose it's volatility (often referred to as "freezing" though this is technically incorrect) up at 5 degrees - but for summer camping butane burns slightly hotter than propane and is a little quicker for tasks like boiling the kettle for that urgent morning cup of tea than with the cooler burning propane. However amongst seasoned campers there will be many that agree and just as many that disagree with my choice of gas - it really comes down to a matter of personal preference. Most caravanners or boaters will carry propane simply because there tends to be more caravanners about than tenters when the cold weather draws in, and propane will continue to produce flammable vapours at lower temperatures.

A cadac gas barbecue connected via hose and regulator to a stand-alone gas bottle.

Dual Coleman Fuel/Petroleum burners are available in "family" sizes. Though this fuel is more suited to extreme conditions it is useful to have an easy supply of fuel worldwide. Though Coleman Fuel is safer and cleaner, if planning trips to more remote locations or less developed countries, the availability of fuel makes this a good choice. Use of Coleman Fuel or petrol is recommended for adults only and is not a good choice for children to use even if supervised.

Lightweight camping stoves:

For lighter weight camping or mild expeditioning, summer walking, cycling or camping from a small hatchback, weight and space is at a premium. Certainly the walker or cyclist will not be carrying a refillable gas bottle, and the small car or small tent may not afford sufficient storage space.

For the campers staying at one site where equipment portability after arrival is not an issue, a large gas ring stove operating from self-sealing cartridges is a good choice. Easy to use with a large stable ring top capable of supporting either lightweight camping pans or small household pans, attachments are available to convert the cooking surface to a grill top or a heater for useful versatility. These stoves are economical to buy and small/light enough not to be a burden on car space - buying two stoves is an affordable way of having two gas rings or for variety, the FB grill also uses the same cartridges, as does the Portable Gas Heater

TIP: If buying gas cartridge stoves, it makes sense to buy stoves which share the same kind of cartridge to save buying and carrying different types of cartridge.

For lighter weight and more space-saving, the traditional cartridge stoves consisting of a burner which sits atop the cartridge, either screw-on or piercing, is compact and takes up less space. Though the smaller footprint means that a stable flat surface must be used and extra care taken in use, these kinds of camping stoves have been popular for generations. Easy to use they require minimal maintenance and can give many years of trouble free service. Best used with specific camping pans, this is usually preferred anyway as the user of a compact stove will also require nesting sets of lightweight pans which are - like the stove itself - easy to carry in a backpack or in cycle panniers.

Methylated spirit stoves are a good weight and space-saving option. Almost like not carrying a stove at all, as the burner is a simple meths pot which is carried within the nested pan set. Simplicity itself to use, meths is poured into the burner and the fluid lit. Less explosive than gas or petroleum and burning at a lower temperature, they are a good choice if introducing children (with adult supervision) to outdoor cooking. However the lower burning temperature does mean that food takes much longer to cook which can be a disadvantage - especially when ravenous after a long day's trekking.

Petroleum stoves have one distinct advantage - fuel is available worldwide. Use of Coleman fuel is recommended as it provides cleaner burning, evaporates quickly if spilt and is easily available in the UK and North America. Unleaded petrol is also suitable though it is recommended only where Coleman fuel is unavailable or has run out as it does not burn as cleanly and should be kept WELL away from the tent when using as spills ignite easily. Nevertheless when used with care it is extremely useful when fuel has run out or if travelling in countries where luxuries such as campingaz or Coleman Fuel are simply unavailable.
Liquid fuel such as Coleman fuel provides a strong heat and performs well in most weather conditions including windy weather or at high altitudes. It can also be cheaper due to the rapid heating and cost to heat efficiency in the long term if you plan on using it regularly. The stove and fuel lines must be cleaned regularly - especially if using petrol as unused petrol can gum up the fuel lines in the stove.

Stoves for Backpacking or Trekking:

Whilst a gas stove weighs less than a liquid stove, when taking into account the weight of the gas cartridges that must be carried, a liquid-burning stove is a lighter-weight option. If wind is expected, a gas burner may be difficult to use and require carrying an extra windshield, blow out easily and be inefficient. Meths stoves with a burner nested inside a pan set are light and only as big as the largest pan. Of course, you may not want to take all the pans. Meths is the coldest-burning choice so whilst the stoves can be light, heating a meal in very cold conditions may take a long time, so make a good choice for light trekking. For more serious use, the rapid heating of a Coleman Fuel/petroleum stove performs best of all three, especially if at high altitudes or in poor weather conditions. In a case where a hot meal can be a survival issue, the last thing needed is a stove which blows out or will not heat up. A small burner ring will be a feature of the backpacker's stove as a basic hot meal is the priority. Gourmet cooking can wait until the end of the expedition

Of course, all the stoves have their uses and the choice of stove should reflect it's intended use to get the best out of it, although each will perform for average campsite use.

Summary:

LARGE GAS STOVE/GRILL ON REFILLABLE BOTTLE:

Best option for family cooking - possible to cook exciting meals and a variety of meals.
Needs bulky gas bottle, but no need to carry lots of cartridges or other fuel.
Other gas appliances can run from the one gas bottle
Not designed for portability

SMALL GAS BURNER:

Quite lightweight and portable.
Cheap and quite economical for occasional camping use.
Lanterns and heaters often available to take matching cartidges.
Needs gas cylinders carrying along with the stove.
Efficiency drops as the pressure in the gas cylinder lowers as the gas is used up.
Easy to use with minimal maintenance.
Affected by windy conditions - a wind shield is recommended.

METHS STOVE:

Lightweight and portable.
Very safe fuel to use and handle.
Burns at a low temperature so cooking time is increased

COLEMAN FUEL/PETROL STOVE:

Performs well in cold, windy or high-altitude conditions.
Efficient, hot-burning fuel means less volume of fuel to be carried than for gas or meths.
Coleman Fuel burns cleaner than petrol where it is available.
Large or small varsions available for backpacking/survival or for family use.
Fuel easily obtained worldwide.
Needs regular cleaning especially when used with petrol.

Tent Care: Cleaning and Reproofing your Tent

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 13:50:00 +0000

A tent is a quick to erect and quick to dismantle living area. Because of its convenience and speedy packing, care of the tent is often overlooked; it is often treat as a "maintenance-free" product. Certainly a good tent is low-maintenance, but whilst camping, your tent is your home, so it makes sense to take a little care after it's use, to prolong it's working life and to keep it comfortable and pleasant to stay in for the next time you go camping. The most important thing to do is to thoroughly clean the tent after use - while doing this you can also give the tent a quick "health check" all-round. One of the worst things for a camper is to turn up late in the evening to a campsite and erect the tent to find broken zips or poles or a leaky flysheet.

A printable PDF version of this post is available from www.towsure.com

Cleaning your tent after use:

The tent should always be cleaned after each camping trip. Cleaning is much easier when the tent is erected - you can see what you are doing and it is easier to handle.

Dealing with Mould and Mildew:
Before starting to clean your tent, check for any signs of mould or mildew on the tent - tents do get damp in use and when packed away for the journey home, the warmth of the car or the home if the tent has been left a few days can encourage mildew or mould growth. Once started, mould will spread unless it is tackled. You can use Milton fluid for this, diluted in water to a 10% (1 part Milton/10 parts water) strength. Gently sponge the dilute solution onto the affected areas and leave for about half an hour - after which time rinse off with clear cold water. Test a small inconspicuous area of the tent first to make sure the solution will not cause discolouring of the material.

Cleaning:
The golden rule of cleaning your tent is not to use ordinary household detergents or solvents. Never put your tent in a washing machine. These damage or remove waterproofing treatments. Use a special tent cleaning solution - Oggie tent cleaner is specially formulated to gently clean and remove typical usage stains including mud and grass without damaging the water-fastness of the tent. Work in sections, cleaning one part (or panel if the tent is of a panel design) at a time. Spray on the tent cleaner and leave for 30 seconds then rub with a sponge or cloth to remove dirt and stains, and then rise off with clean water. Do not allow the cleaner to dry on the tent. For heavy soiling repeat as necessary. As for mildew removal, always test a small inconspicuous area before proceeding with use of any cleaning solution.

Drying:
Allow the tent to dry thoroughly. Always choose a dry day to clean your tent as you will need to leave the tent to dry before packing away (or before reproofing depending on the brand of re-proofer). Packing away a damp tent will certainly cause any mildew to reappear and grow.

Tent Re-Proofing

Re-Proofing is the waterproofing of your tent's fabric. It is not always necessary to re-proof a tent after every use - whilst cleaning you can easily see if the tent or a particular area of your tent needs reproofing. If water penetrates directly through the fabric the tent urgently requires reproofing and it is recommended to re-proof the entire tent. If in any area the water soaks into the fabric instead of beading and running off, the tent or the affected area if only on a small high-wear area, should be re-proofed.

Re-Proofing the entire tent:
Oggie tent re-proofer restores and maximises the waterproofing qualities of your tent and acts as a stain barrier to make future cleaning easier. It is applied to a thoroughly dry tent and is simply sprayed evenly over the whole surface of the tent, and left to dry for 15 minutes between coats if a second coat is required. As always, check a small inconspicuous area before proceeding. Always refer to the instructions accompanying your re-proofer especially if using a brand other than Oggie, as some re-proofers are applied whilst the tent is still wet.

If only a small area needs re-proofing, Fabsil aerosol sprays are quickly sprayed on the area to be treated. A small aerosol of Fabsil is handy to carry for any on-site reproofing emergencies.

After re-proofing, always leave the tent to dry for at least three hours before packing away.

Checks and Repairs:

During cleaning and proofing is the ideal time to cast an eye over all the other parts of the tent to ensure everything is as it should be.

Tent Pegs:
Whilst waiting for your tent to dry after cleaning, use the time to knock off any clumps of mud on your pegs. Wash the pegs in a bucket of warm soapy water and dry thoroughly. Plain steel pegs can be given a light coat of WD-40 or similar lubricant - allow to dry then wipe off well before packing in a sealed plastic bag - you do not want your tent smelling of oil or to stain your newly cleaned tent. Check for any bent or damaged pegs and replace as necessary, ensuring you still have some spare pegs left over.

Tent Poles:
Check all the tent poles for cracking, damage, frayed elastic etc. Order any replacement poles if necessary now. If you leave it until later will you forget, only to be reminded when you arrive on-site next time about that broken pole? If metal tent poles were used near the sea or exposed to salt air, wash them in clean water and dry thoroughly to prevent salt corrosion.

Guy lines:
Check all the guy lines for fraying, loose knots and damaged guy line runners. If you don't have any spare guy lines it is worth considering carrying a couple of spares. Again, order any guy line replacements sooner rather than risk forgetting later.

Zips:
Check the operation of all zips and make sure the zips are clean. L307 Snap and Zipper Lubricant is specially designed to aid free running of zips, reduce friction and wear and prevent corrosion.

Groundsheet:
Don't forget whilst drying your tent, the groundsheet will need to be turned. A groundsheet is prone to mildew-inviting condensation on the underside even when dry.

Seams:
Check the condition of all the seams paying particular attention to check for leaks as the tent is rinsed down. A dab of seam sealant can cure most seam leaks if any are found

Fabric:
Check for small tears in the flysheet, inner tent and groundsheet and use the appropriate repair kit where necessary.

How to Prepare your Caravan for the Winter

noreply@blogger.com (Towsure Products Ltd) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 12:56:00 +0000

As Autumn approaches, many minds turn to storing the caravan away for the winter. If your caravan is to be stored idle for the winter months, a little preparation can save headaches and sometimes considerable expense when the caravan is brought back into service the following springtime.

Following this checklist of “to-dos” will help you prepare your caravan and keep it in good condition throughout the winter.

In addition to this list, which is worth allowing a day to work through, you should make regular visits to your caravan and inspect for problems paying particular attention to frost and damp.

A hand-held damp detector is a useful item to carry with you when checking your caravan over the winter.

A printable PDF checklist version of this post is available from www.towsure.com

INTERIOR:

Completely drain the water system, opening all the taps and the main drain plug. This can take some time to drain so beginning here is a good idea - you can do other wintering chores whilst the water is draining. (TIP: If you know you are on the last trip of the season you can allow the system to drain on your journey home). Leave the inside taps open to prevent pressure buildup.
Remove your water filter to prevent damp and frost damage
Drain thoroughly any water carriers. Leaving the caps off gives ventilation (but store away from the risk of bugs and insect entry). Keep caps safe - over a period of a few months small caps can easily go astray - or put them in a carrier bag and tie the handles of the bag to the carrier)
Plug all water inlet and waste outlet points to prevent bugs and insects entering

TOILET:

Drain the flush tank and clean with Water Tank Cleaner to prevent deposits of pollutants during storage
Thoroughly clean the cassette. A cassette cleaner such as Thetford Cassette Tank Cleaner removes stubborn calcium deposits.
Coat the seals and blade with Thetford Maintenance Spray to prevent corrosion and seal damage. Thetford spray is specially formulated for use on toilet seats and should not be replaced by “general maintenance sprays” of the kind found in DIY stores.
Replace the cassette leaving the blade open to prevent it sticking in place.

INTERIOR:

Now is a good time to remove everything from your caravan. If all the bits and bobs that accumulate over the season are removed, you will be returning in the spring to a clean, empty caravan - just as you did when you first took delivery of it!
Remove all cushions and upholstery and ideally take home to store. If you really don’t have the space at home, then stand all the cushions on-end where air can circulate all around them and prevent them being attacked by damp. Bedding and pillows should really be removed for the winter.
Clean out all the cupboards well and take away any food or perishable items. Although the contents of tinned foods should keep over winter, should you be unlucky enough to develop a little damp in your kitchen cupboard, rust rings from the bottom of tin cans are unsightly and damaging.
The fridge and freezer should be carefully cleaned - Duzzit Fridge & Microwave Cleaner is an ideal anti-bacterial cleaner. Prop the door ajar to allow air to circulate and prevent odour build-up.
Vacuum all floors and carpets
A spider-friendly repellant such as “No More Spiders” helps to discourage “livestock” making your caravan their winter home, without killing or harming spiders.
Don’t forget to empty all waste bins
Remove all clothing, towels etc from the caravan and take home
Leaving a few dehumidifiers or moisture traps in the caravan, in closets etc. will help combat any damp that may develop and prevent damp damage. These can be checked and renewed/recharged if necessary when you check on the caravan periodically.

EXTERIOR - WINDOWS & VENTS:

Open all the windows and thinly lubricate all the window seals. This prevents sticking of windows when they are opened after the winter (and in the worst cases tearing or damage to the window seals).
Close all windows and vents. Double check all windows and vents are closed and locked, leaving no openings for bugs and spiders to gain easy entry. However DO NOT block up vents, air circulation is vital otherwise the air will become stale, and any damp problems will set in far worse without air circulation.

EXTERIOR - BODYWORK:

Wash and Polish the exterior of the caravan with a quality Caravan Cleaner. It is worth checking with your caravan manufacturer which cleaning products are permissable to use on your caravan, especially if the van is still under warranty.
Once the caravan is dry, a coat of overwintering fluid gives a protective winter coat, inhibiting algae growth, protects against pollutants and makes much lighter work of the springtime wash at the start of the new season.

GAS & ELECTRIC:

Remove gas cylinders and store in a ventilated location. If you have nowhere safe to store gas bottles, then ensure that cylinder valves are closed (off) and that the gas locker is locked shut.
Remove the leisure battery or batteries and take them home or store somewhere warm and dry. Use a quality battery charger to keep the charge topped up periodically (about once a month)
Spray your 12N & 12S plugs with a proprietory water dispersal / sealing spray.

BEFORE COVERING

Remove the wheels and fit a pair of winter wheels. This prevents damage to caravan tyres caused by standing in one place for extended periods and is especially important where the caravan is to be stored on concrete/hard standing. Winter Wheels that lock in place are also a useful security measure.
Store the wheels somewhere safe from theft and away from direct sunlight. If covering the wheels use a breathable covering and not watertight plastic or tarpaulin.
Lower and lock the corner steadies
If you have not yet fitted winter wheels, then securely chock the wheels
Release the handbrake - leaving the handbrake applied can size the brakes on over a long period of time.
Use a good insect repellant powder around all areas of contact with the ground (winter wheels, jockey wheel, corner steadies). Renew this powder each visit when you check on your caravan.

COVERING:

Cover the hitch with a weatherproof hitch cover
Cover the caravan with the correct size of Towsure Breathable Caravan Cover. Towsure caravan covers are designed to be weatherproof but not a completely watertight seal, allowing any moisture to escape.
NEVER substitute a breathable cover with plastic sheet or tarpaulin. A coat of overwintering fluid and no cover is always preferable to a completely sealed plastic sheet which can trap moisture and cause serious problems.

Getting More from the Outdoors

Paperless Catalogue Now Available

Sheffield Cafe Now Open

Survey Results being compiled

Caravanning in Winter

Sheffield Refurb Well Under Way

And now for something......a little bit different

How to fit a 7-way bypass relay

So what are "multiplexed" and "CAN-Bus" systems?

How the relay works

Fitting the bypass relay.

Step-By-Step Installation

Relay Terminal

Insert wire colour

TT Terminal:Some variants of the relay have a terminal marked "TT". This allows a dash-mounted warning light to be fitted instead of the built-in buzzer as an option. Normally this is not used and is NOT an earth terminal!

Relay Wire

Connect to: (on vehicle)

Important!Thin wires twisted tightly together signify CAN-Bus control wires. These wires should not be connected to or otherwise interfered with - not even with a circuit tester.

Troubleshooting:

WARNING!Always refer to the instructions accompanying the relay supplied, as there may be minor differences in exact specification between relays manufactured by different companies.

How to use Electrical Snap Connectors

Fitting a Cycle Lighting Board

FITTING A 7-PIN SOCKET FOR A LIGHTING BOARD.

INSTALLATION.

CHECKING THE INSTALLATION.

FINALISING THE INSTALLATION.

High Performance Motor Movers - A real head-turner

Why you should always check your caravan weights

Choosing a Camping Stove

Family camping stoves:

Lightweight camping stoves:

Stoves for Backpacking or Trekking:

Summary:

Tent Care: Cleaning and Reproofing your Tent

Cleaning your tent after use:

Tent Re-Proofing

Checks and Repairs:

How to Prepare your Caravan for the Winter

TT Terminal:
Some variants of the relay have a terminal marked "TT". This allows a dash-mounted warning light to be fitted instead of the built-in buzzer as an option. Normally this is not used and is NOT an earth terminal!

Important!
Thin wires twisted tightly together signify CAN-Bus control wires. These wires should not be connected to or otherwise interfered with - not even with a circuit tester.

WARNING!
Always refer to the instructions accompanying the relay supplied, as there may be minor differences in exact specification between relays manufactured by different companies.