Girl eats Oxford

The Field Kitchen

2013-05-15T10:41:00.001+01:00

First of all, an apology that this is quite possibly the latest review known to man. We're talking almost 4 months after visiting. No attempt at excuses, but I've been a bit busy emigrating to Spain. Which is why this is also likely to be the last review you'll be seeing on here. Thanks so much to everyone who has supported Girl Eats Oxford over the past couple of years, by reading, commenting, tweeting me, listening to the radio shows and inviting me along to try out your cafes, pubs and restaurants.

After the closure of The Ball Green Door, Oxford had a vacancy for a pop-up restaurant. Thankfully the city's would-be underground diners didn't have too long to wait: along came The Field Kitchen to supply that secret supper demand.

For those unfamiliar with the concept, pop-up restaurants have no permanent base, but hold evenings in different venues on an ad hoc basis. Run by chef Rupert and his team of able assistants, The Field Kitchen first 'popped up' on Hogacre Common during summer 2012, but has ventured inside for the winter months. I went along to one of its January nights at the Jericho Community Centre, a surprisingly cosy little venue on Canal Street.

Around 30 diners filled the cute, candle-lit room, made inviting by The Field Kitchen's own touches such as handmade tablecloths and vintage crockery. The atmosphere was somewhere between an intimate restaurant and a meal at a mate's: with smaller tables largely occupied by different groups of friends, it didn't have the same dinner party vibe as at at-home supper club, but it definitely had a sociable feel. Adding to the ambience was a guitarist, tucked away in the corner providing a soundtrack to our evening.

N and I were seated on a shared table with another pair of diners, who we chatted to over a welcome glass of red wine. The menu is available to view in advance of events on The Field Kitchen's website, but it was also chalked up on a board as a reminder. We started with puy lentil, fennel and carrot broth served with homemade sourdough bread.

Lentil broth

Rustic in appearance, it was a comforting dish with a hint of paprika lending welcome winter warmth. Even Goldilocks would have approved of the portion size: just enough for a starter.

Sea bass

After a short interlude, the team whisked in our main course from the van outside. The Field Kitchen is fully mobile: even the cooking facilities are on wheels. The fillet of sea bass was served with a warm salad of roasted squash, balsamic red onions and rocket. My plate was a little squash-lite, but N's had a better ratio. It was light and fresh, made seasonal by the accompaniments. Vegetarians were offered the same dish with halloumi in place of fish.

Treacle tart

The 'winner' of the night (in N's immortal words) was the dessert. 'Mum's treacle tart' came served with a dollop of lemon zest-topped creme fraiche, and was utterly delicious. Incredibly flavoursome, it rounded off the relatively healthy meal with a good helping of indulgence.

All in all, it was a lovely evening with great food and a brilliant ambience. Everything ran smoothly, with only a short wait between courses. More fun than visiting a restaurant yet without the overly intimate feel that makes some people unsure about supper clubs: if you don't fancy sharing a table with 4 or more other diners, the Field Kitchen is definitely one for you.

Price: £35 per head. I was a guest of the Field Kitchen (thank you!).

Verdict: 8
For upcoming dates and locations, visit the Field Kitchen website.

And that's all from me. Hasta luego!

St Aldates Tavern

2012-11-16T12:00:00.000+00:00

A narrow-fronted pub tucked inconspicuously away next to the Post Office, St Aldates Tavern had barely caught my eye during my ten years in Oxford. Passing by, I'd occasionally observe a few patrons chatting outside over a cigarette and a pint, but I was never once tempted to step through its doors. Not even during that phase when it served Thai food (somewhat incongrously, given its British boozer exterior). It just never looked like anything special. These days are gone, however. Now under new management, St Aldates Tavern is no longer an average spot for a city-centre pint: it's been given a makeover and a decent menu. Nowadays, it's an ideal venue for an after-work bite to eat, a catch-up with friends over a glass of wine, or erm... a city-centre pint.

Don't get me wrong, St Aldates Tavern hasn't gone all gastro. There are no high-backed leather chairs, faux-distressed tables and arty wallcoverings here. The interior is tasteful and minimal: it's definitely still a pub, but its wooden tables, neutral colour scheme and tasteful fixtures and fittings hint at a slightly higher end market than its previous incarnation. Walking in on a Friday evening, it was almost standing-room only: luckily, we managed to grab a little table at the back, behind the bar. Winding our way through the pub, C and I noticed tables of hungry customers tucking into sharing boards and platefuls of hearty-looking food. Never having seen the menu (unfortunately their website wasn't yet up and running), I was pleased to notice that the dishes being demolished looked more appetising than standard pub grub.

It certainly promised to be appetising, with the announcement at the head of the menu that all food is homemade from fresh ingredients every day – and on the premises, no less. The all-day menu (food is served from 12–9.30pm) is unpretentious but appealing: classics such as sausage and mash (£7) and beer-battered fish and chips (£7.50) sit along side a few 'St Aldates Specials' (such as crevettes with braised fennel and aioli, £8.50, and rump steak with hand-cut chips, £9.50). There are also a couple of dishes to share; ideal accompaniments for a post-work glass of wine: there's a baked camembert with freshly-baked bread (£8.50) and a charcuterie board featuring smoked duck breast, chicken liver parfait and ham hock terrine (£14). Prices are surprisingly reasonable given the pub's central location: but does the low price mean comparable quality, or petite portion sizes?

Oh hi, camembert

No, as it turned out. C and I devoured our whole baked camembert (I blame the appetite we'd worked up over a glass of red) pretty damn quickly: it was just too tasty. The centre was perfectly melted throughout, and the warm fresh bread ideal for scooping up the cheesy goodness. C pronounced it the best baked camembert she'd ever eaten, and I'd have to agree. Now I know that sticking a cheese in the oven doesn't sound like the most challenging of feats, but getting the right consistency is something of an art form. And it's one that the chef at St Aldates Tavern has clearly mastered. Add to that the touch of honey crowning the camembert, and welcome to cheese bliss.

Witness the fitness

My main course of roast pepper and butterbean stew (£7.50, one of 3 vegetarian options) had a hard act to follow, but it put in a sterling performance. In addition to peppers, the stew also featured a selection of other veg, including courgettes plus plenty of herbs, making it tastier than anticipated. I admit I hesitated before ordering, as I find that vegetable stews can often be disappointingly watery in consistency, but the St Aldates version was robust and tasty.

Vegetable and butterbean stew

C opted for the 8oz beef burger served with hand-cut chips (£8.50), which came topped with red onion and cheese. It was cooked medium (just right, apparently), with a well-seasoned, herby flavour. The bun was toasted, the salad topping worked well: all in all, an excellent burger, apparently. Both our mains were on a par with a gastropub offering, at a more modest price.

Beef burger

If your appetite is more restrained than ours, St Aldates Tavern also serves bar snacks (from £3). Although about half of the customers were dining, it's very much a pub: there are 8 beers on tap, priced from £3.70 a pint. There's also a decent wine list, with small glasses from £2.20 – but be warned, large glasses don't come in so cheap, with the house white £4.85 for 250ml and the most expensive wines over the £8 mark. Bottles are better value, so all the more excuse to settle in for the evening and order some dinner while you're at it.

With a strong menu of well-cooked – and well-priced – food, a wide choice of drinks at an average city centre rate, a comfortable setting and friendly service, St Aldates Tavern is worth a visit. After ten years, it's now well and truly on my radar.

Verdict: 8.5

St Aldates Tavern is at 108 St Aldates, OX1 1BU. Tel: 01865 241185.

Apologies for the silence: fortnightly reviews to be resumed!

Las Iguanas foodie night

2012-08-31T13:14:00.003+01:00

Italian? Make mine a pizza. Indian? Yep, I know my order by heart. Chinese? That's a rice versus noodles decision. Latin American? Hmm... what does that mean, then?

While most Brits have now embraced a variety of world cuisines,food from some countries has been slower to reach our shores. Delicacies from Central and South America definitely remain under-represented. London has a smattering of independent restaurants from this corner of the globe (plus the Mexican chain Wahaca) and Brazilian rodizio places are gradually popping up nationwide, but it's probably fair to say that Las Iguanas is the best-known Latin American eatery in the UK. Established in Bristol in 1991, there are now 28 branches across Britain, including one on Park End Street in Oxford. The kitchen draws inspiration from numerous countries across Central and South America, largely Mexico and Brazil, although dishes from other nations (and a few geographically hazy but tasty sounding numbers) also pepper their menu. You certainly won't want for choice at Las Iguanas: all tastes are catered for, including fussy vegetarians like myself who wouldn't touch a rodizio restaurant with an asparaus spear.

One Tuesday night every month in the Oxford branch of Las Iguanas, that Latin American geography I mentioned gets a little more soecific. A three-course set menu from one of the countries that make up the continent is also on offer to diners. In August, Brazil took the culinary spotlight. The welcome caipirinha (the country's signature cocktail, or 'drink of the people' as the menu would have you believe) seemed to speed our decision-making: with three options for each course (one meat, one fish, one veg) there's just enough choice. M and I opted for the salt cod bolinhos (fritters) and the cheese empanadas (pastries) to start, rejecting the least Brazilian-sounding option of spinach and chicken dip served with tortilla chips. Aren't they a product of Central America's behemoth instead? Ah well, it's all a big Latin American love-in at Las Iguanas, so a bit of cross-border food trading can be excused.

Empanadas

Bolinhos

Starters were served promptly by our friendly waiter. The presentation and portion sizes were both above average: M and I already had the feeling we'd be rolling home bolinho-shaped after our meal. Of the two, we preferred the empanadas: although their slightly crisp texture suggested the traditional method of deep frying had been at work, they didn't taste artery-clogging. The cheese inside was pleasantly gooey, and the spicy cranberry salsa was an unexpectedly tasty complement. The salt cod fritters were, as M pointed out, 'a bit salty', but worked well with the accompanying aioli and rocket garnish.

Feijoada

The difficult-to-photograph bobo

Next up was Brazil's traditional feijoada for M and an intriguingly named seafood bobo for me (chicken, steak or butternut squash crepes being eschewed this time). Feijoada is a meaty stew made up of braised beef, chorizo and black beans with a garlic and red wine sauce, served with rice and plantain. It was reportedly tasty: the beans were particularly flavoursome and held their texture rather than turning to mush. The chorizo was good too, the beef perhaps not top quality but fine for a stew. It was good to see plantain featuring in both of our dishes: it's not something we're often served in the UK, and a different taste makes a welcome change from the usual medley of vegetables on our menus. My seafood bobo was elaborately presented in a clay pot, with a candle to keep it warm. A good selection of fish (prawns, mussels and cod) were cooked in a spicy tomato, cassva and coconut milk sauce, and also served with rice and plantain. To bring yet more flavour to this carnival in a bowl, I was also given a spicy salsa and some toasted coconut farofa. The salsa I soon discarded as unecessary, but the coconut added more depth and an interesting texture to the dish. Despite sounding like some kind of bogeyman, the bobo was fresh-tasting and recommendable. Again, portions of both dishes were generous without being over-facing: you definitely feel you're getting value for money with the set menu.

Chocolate pot

Cheesecake

Given the speed with which our desserts appeared, I had a feeling they weren't going to be something a Brazilian grandma had laboured over for the occasion. I find that pudding is often a chain restaurant's downfall, as they're so easy to buy in and refrigerate. Sadly this proved the case here, with both of our desserts tasting ever so slightly of fridge. We regretted rejecting the most Brazilian-sounding dessert, the quindim de yaya (apparently this means 'girlish charm' - why on earth did we turn it down?). If the promise of feminine charm didn't lure us in to order this baked custard flan, the word 'homemade' should have. Instead, we opted for the chocolate pot and the dulce de leche and macadamia cheesecake. The Argentinian caramel that is dulce de leche (ah, there's that inter-country food swapping again) is lip-lickingly divine. It's also my joint favourite ice cream flavour ever. So naturally I went for that. But it didn't taste so much of sweet, gooey caramel as I'd hoped. In fact I detected a hint of garlic (or maybe the taste of the bobo just lingered longer than expected). M's chocolate pot wasn't quite what we expected, but was pleasant nonetheless. A misplaced comma in the menu (layers of dark chocolate, sponge) misled us: there was more sponge in evidence than dark chocolate, and the coffee Kahlua taste was definitely dominant.

For £21.50 for 3 courses and a drink, the themed set menus offer great value if you fancy trying something a bit different. And let's face it, whose Tuesday evenings couldn't do with a bit of Latin American flavour? Upcoming nights include Venezuela (4 Sep), Cuba (2nd Oct) and Mexico (6 Nov). If you don't fancy going the whole enchilada and committing to three courses, give the regular menu a try. There's plenty on there (including enchiladas) to suit everyone, and if you're feeling adventurous there's bound to be something new to try. No matter what night you visit, there's always a bit of atmosphere in Las Iguanas too. As someone who dreads a silent restaurant complete with waiters hovering expectantly, the lively music and flag-filled decor are a welcome touch. There's also a bar at the front of the restaurant with a nightly happy hour if you fancy a mojito or caipirinha. The continent's drinks may be more familiar to us than its food for now, but you could easily be converted.

Verdict: 7

Las Iguanas is at 40 Park End Street, Oxford OX1 1JD. Tel: 01865 263150 or book online.

Gousto recipe delivery service

2012-08-14T12:15:00.000+01:00

Unless you're fanatically skilled at meal planning and religiously re-stock your kitchen on a weekly basis, you'll no doubt have come home from work and opened the fridge to find some festering carrots, milk and butter from which to create your evening meal. We all lead increasingly busy lives, so sometimes food shopping falls by the wayside. And even if you do have a variety of ingredients to hand, devising ways to combine them into a tasty dinner can prove a time-consuming challenge. But what if you could choose a selection of tasty-sounding recipes for the week ahead and have the ingredients delivered to your door in just the quantities you need, with preparation instructions? Well now, residents of Oxford, you can: thanks to Gousto.

When I was invited to trial Gousto, I was reassured by the fact that their recipes are divided by difficulty rating - and a number of them looked so simple that not even I could mess them up. I'm definitely not a whiz in the kitchen, but I'm not an awful cook either: I just find I don't have time to prepare elaborate meals during the week. I selected two recipes from Gousto's website, a smoked trout summer salad and spicy tofu with coconut rice and waited for my delivery. Gousto is a subscription service: users choose to receive between 2 and 4 recipes per week, available for 2, 4 or 6 people (you better hope your household has an even number). Each week, you log on and select from a regularly updated collection of recipes, and ingredients are delivered to you on Thursday in a cool bag. Although I was concerned about the waste that would come with so many packaged ingredients, Gousto package items together where possible, and is as environmentally friendly where possible (for example, they use Wool Cool to keep produce fresh). In order to keep things as fuss-free and simple as possible, they provide every ingredient you need apart from salt and olive oil. That way, you'll never again have to come face to face with that mouldering half packet of mint you bought two weeks ago for that tabbouleh recipe.

Recipe 1: Glazed trout fillet with summer salad

Not something I would ever have thought to make, this seasonal recipe lured me in with it's one-star difficulty rating and 30 minute preparation time. The double-sided recipe card is photographic, guiding you through the ingredients you need and giving an overview of the dish, plus information on equipment needed and portion size before moving on to a step-by-step breakdown of how to make the recipe.

Eight steps to dinner

Instruction number one was certainly pitched at my level: 'Fill a medium sized pot with water and bring to boil, ideally using a lid'. Confidence boosted by managing to boil water, I worked my way through the 8 steps, chopping, marinating and mixing my way to an evening meal.

The steps were well broken-down and easy to follow: boiling the potatoes, making the dill, honey and mustard glaze for the trout, marinating the fish and making the rest of the salad (apple, beetroot, radish and cucumber). As a clumsy individual, I'm not much of a precision chopper, and managed to make a bit of a lash-up of the apple, but that aside, I managed pretty well. Apart from cooking the potatoes, no timings were given, but due to the simplicity of the recipe and the step-by-step approach, it didn't seem necessary. Instructions were succinct but thorough without being patronising, which I liked.

So this goes in here, yeah?

I totally know what I'm doing.

A couple of the ingredients were unlabelled, which almost proved disastrous when I reached for the coconut milk for recipe 2 instead of the sour cream, but the photographic depiction and a good old sense of smell sorted that issue out. And as for the end result? Impressive. The salad looked great but tasted even better, with a fresh combination of flavours. The glaze was delicious, and the contrast between the apple and beetroot was just right. Good work, Gousto.

The finished product! We'll make a chef of me yet...

Recipe 2: Black pepper spicy tofu on coconut rice

Spurred on by my success with the salad, I moved up to difficulty rating 2 (of a possible 3). Spicy tofu on coconut rice didn't sound too challenging, but there were more ingredients to deal with: onion, chilli, mange tout, ginger, garlic, rice vinegar and soy sauce.

Look, I can chop an onion, OK?

I just can't chop mange tout length-wise

I began by chopping the onion, but 'cutting the mange tout in half length-wise' defeated me. Too fiddly by half: I chucked them in whole. I tried to stay on brief for the rest of the recipe, although I admit I had assistance with the rice (but only because my attention was focused on the vegetables, you understand). I found the lack of timings more of an issue with this recipe: some stages had timings, but the cooking of the rice didn't ('turn down the heat to let it simmer and stir regularly').

Frying the vegetables appeared to be timed to perfection, but unfortunately the 2 minutes allowed for 150ml of water to reduce just wasn't enough, and we ended up with rather a lot of excess liquid. The recipe was easy enough to follow and tasted good, but it wasn't as memorable as the trout salad. As for the slight sogginess, I'm not sure whether the quantity of water added needed to be reduced or the time allowed increased, but the recipe seemed to need a little tweaking. I admit I added extra black pepper to the end result, as it wasn't as flavoursome as the previous day's dish.

Overall, I think Gousto offer a great service. If you don't have time to plan your meals and shop accordingly, Gousto takes the stress out of dining at home, and is an easy way to ensure a varied and healthy diet. Recipes are developed by a team of chefs and updated each week, so you shouldn't get bored. Although it's clearly aimed at couples, families and house-shares, if you're cooking for one, you could easily take the second portion to work the next day for lunch. With prices starting from £4 per meal, the price is impressively reasonable given the quality of the ingredients (which is sourced from organic farms in the UK wherever possible). Despite their commitment to the environment, I do think that providing a new cool bag each week seems a little wasteful, as it seems like something that would be easy to reuse. I'm also a bit unsure about Thursday as a delivery day: although the ingredients for most dishes keep a minimum of 4 days, it seems to me that Monday would be a much more convenient day for most subscribers. Also, a maximum of 4 meals a week can be ordered currently: 5 seems to make more sense to me in order to cover the working week, but apparently the service will increase if the demand is there.

If you're looking to shake up your culinary repertoire and make your life a bit easier, give Gousto a try. There's no minimum commitment and you can place your order on hold at any time. For more information, check out their website.

Win tickets to Foodies Festival

2012-08-11T10:28:00.004+01:00

From 25–27 August, Foodies Festival returns to South Park for the third year running. A three-day extravaganza of cookery demonstrations, food & wine matching masterclasses, new product showcases and endless opportunities to indulge, it's the ideal bank holiday destination for food lovers.

Visiting last year, I was impressed by the number of different vendors offering produce from around the world, from traditional English cheeses, to spicy Asian sauces, to sweet American treats. The cookery demonstration by the Italian-English couple behind La Cucina Caldesi provided some culinary inspiration and helped me to work up an appetite; thankfully there were plenty of choices when it came to satisfying my hunger. This year promises more top-notch demonstrations: names to grace the Chefs' Theatre include Michelin-starred Gary Jones of Le Manoir Aux Quat'Saisons, Michael North of the Nut Tree and food journalist Xanthe Clay. Oxford's own Maxwell Mason of The Big Bang will also take the stage, as will MasterChef finalist Andrew Kojima. If you want to do more than merely marvel at the pros, you can get involved in the masterclasses, which include bakery sessions with Outsider Tart and perfect pie-making with the Posh Pork Pie Company. This year, all the family have the chance to pick up new skills while having some fun: there's a full programme of kids' events in the Children's Cookery Theatre.

Unfortunately, I'm going to be away over the bank holiday weekend, but if you fancy some Foodies Festival action, you can find out more and purchase tickets here (priced from £10 for one day; three-day tickets cost £18). Foodies Festival have kindly offered me five pairs of tickets to the Oxford event to give away to readers. If you'd like to win some, please email me your name and postal address to girleatsoxford at gmail dot com by midnight on Wednesday 15 August. Names will be drawn at random and tickets will be posted to you. Good luck!

Byron

2012-08-06T20:43:00.001+01:00

If a friend had suggested going out for a burger a decade ago, you'd have automatically thought of parting with a few pounds at those golden arches. Nowadays, the simple hamburger isn't just a fast food phenomenon: it's gone a bit gastro. Pubs pride themselves on serving the 'best burger', with high-quality, locally-sourced mince seasoned with just the right mixture of herbs; chains such as Gourmet Burger Kitchen have challenged the dominance of the humble beef patty with creative combinations of both meat and vegetarian ingredients. Sometimes though, simplicity wins.

British chain Byron was established by Tom Byng in London in 2007 with the aim of serving simple hamburgers done well, in the tradition of great American diners. Not that there's anything kitsch about this burger joint, though – the decor is more along the lines of stripped-back industrial chic than 50s retro. Until recently, Byron's branches could only be found in the capital, but in July, their Oxford outpost opened on George Street: just two doors down from recently-renovated GBK. A burger battle was about to commence, surely?

Well no, as it turns out. Stepping through the doors of Byron one weekday evening, the atmosphere couldn't have been more different from that of its near neighbour. Rather than a brightly-lit space full of families polishing off a towering stack of meat plus topping, Byron is as simple and fuss-free as its menu. The varied clientele show that burgers appeal to all ages, while the cool and quirky design differentiate it from other Oxford restaurants: as N said, it's 'very London'. Clearly appealing to a different demographic than GBK, there should be space enough in this town for the both of them.

But the proof of the burger is in the eating. How would Byron's 'proper hamburgers' fare when put to my Belgian burger connoisseur's taste test? The restaurant manager explained the concept behind the menu: it's structured around the Classic burger (£6.75), a 6oz hamburger cooked medium (unless otherwise requested), topped with lettuce, tomato, red onion and mayonnaise and served in a bun. The beef they use comes from small farms in Scotland and is freshly ground every day. The menu features only 5 other items: Cheese (a choice of 5, £7.75), Byron (with dry cure bacon, mature cheddar and Byron sauce, £9.25), Skinny (no bun, with salad, £7.50), Chicken (chicken breast with tomato mayonnaise and spinach, £8.75) and Veggie. Which isn't a burger at all, but a portabello mushroom with roasted red pepper, goat's cheese, spinach and aioli (£7.75). Apparently the idea was to give vegetarians something like a burger so they don't feel 'left out'. As one of their number, I say give us a burger! If you go for a burger you erm, want a burger. But still, I decided to withold judgment until I'd sampled one for myself.

While we waited for our Byron (N's choice on the manager's recommendation) and Veggie to arrive, we munched on some 'proper olives' (£2.75) and tortilla chips with salsa and guacamole (£3.50). Both were excellent: good quality olives, and delicious homemade dips. I normally flinch at the English pricetag on olives, but shared between a few of you, these are worth it. When it comes to drinks, Byron's prices reflect its London origins, with soft drinks weighing in at £2.30+ and milkshakes for £3.95. In-keeping with the 'simple' ethos, the wine list is divided into 'good', 'better', 'great' and 'best' categories. I opted for a large glass of 'good' red (a Spanish Tempranillo, £5.25) – and very good it was, much nicer than the house red at my local – while N chose the 'great' Malbec (£6.95), which she loved but I wasn't sure warranted the price tag.

After a short wait, the burgers and our sides of skin-on chips and courgette fries (£3.25 each) plus a house side salad (£3.50) arrived. Prices may be in an entirely different bracket to Maccy D's, but the portion sizes and presentation take Byron's burgers out of the fast food category entirely. N's burger was definitely sizeable enough to keep her quiet for a good few minutes; once she surfaced from meaty mouthfuls she reported that it was the definition of medium, juicy and delicious. The salad was fresh, the bacon and cheddar were both 'perfect' – as she put it, 'the whole experience was enjoyable'.

The veggie versus...

The Byron

My veggie 'burger' was also generously sized yet less tricky to eat than some I've been faced with: it didn't collapse or crumble everywhere. The mushroom, red pepper and goat's cheese all worked well together, providing plenty of flavour and texture. Everything was fresh and tasty, but ultimately I couldn't help but feel that it was more of a fancy sandwich than a burger. It was definitely less substantial than N's meat version, but with the addition of starters and sides I was more than satisfied. The lightly-battered courgette fries were clearly made to order and it showed: they were delicious and moreish. The skin-on chips were the only dud note of the evening – in their haste to feed us, the chefs hadn't let them cook quite long enough.

Sides

Heaven

Dessert more than made up for this slight fault, though. I didn't think an Oreo and Brownie Sundae sounded like much to get excited about: after all, it was just ice cream mixed with chunks of cookies and brownie with some chocolate sauce thrown in for good measure. I was wrong. It was pure indulgence in a dish; so good I almost wanted to lick the remnants from the glass. Clearly inspired by the Olympics, N declared that the person who invented it deserved a gold medal. I'm inclined to agree. Silver would have to go to the cheesecake: a worthy contender, although outperformed by the sundae on the night.

Providing simple, fresh food at a decent price, Byron is bound to succeed in Oxford. Although once you've added sides and drinks to your main a meal doesn't come too cheap, it's worth it if burgers are your thing. With excellent service, a relaxed atmosphere and a setting that's a little out of the ordinary for Oxford, it's worth a visit. As for me, I'll be back once there's a veggie burger on the menu...

Verdict: 8

Byron is at 33-35 George Street, OX1 2AY. Tel: 01865 792155.

Ashmolean Roof Top

2012-07-14T15:27:00.001+01:00

If you want to marvel at some Egyptian mummies, check out some Chinese ceramics or study some still-life paintings, you'd go to the Ashmolean. If you want to enjoy a post-work drink with a difference, accompanied with a tapas-style bite to eat, turns out you'd go to the Ashmolean too.

A prestigious museum isn't the first place that springs to mind when you think fine dining, but in-the-know Oxford residents have been enjoying the Ashmolean's top-floor restaurant since the museum's extensive re-fit finished in 2009. With lavish lunches and afternoon teas on offer during gallery opening hours, the Ashmolean Dining Room transforms on Thursday and Friday nights. Step through the concealed doorway on St Giles and take the lift skywards: an evening on the roof terrace awaits.

The restaurant itself is full of light, with floor-to-ceiling glass windows maximising the view of the historical Randolph Hotel and beyond to Oxford's famous spires. One of these windows is a sliding door, opening onto the terrace. Thanks to our wonderful British weather, this terrace is sadly under-exploited for much of the year, but once summer rolls around (hurry up, would you?), this space is the place to be. There's an extensive area of decking with tables and chairs for informal dining, plus a patch of real grass with deck chairs that's perfect for lounging after a hard day's work.

In addition to a well-chosen wine list, a selection of wines and beers, the Roof Top menu also offers three appropriately-named cocktails: the Randolph, the Oxford Fool Sling and the Rooftop Daiquiri £6 each). N, D, M and I tested the range between us, with the vodka and cointreau Randolph and the rum-based daiquiri winning particular praise. The watermelon flavour of the Randolph makes it the perfect summer drink. Sadly the weather on our visit didn't quite fall into the 'perfect summer' category, but we didn't let a spot of rain stop us from ploughing through the entire food menu.

With dishes designed to be shared, the Roof Top's is ideal for a sociable post-work bite (or what I like to all a pre-dinner dinner). Or, if you order everything on offer as we did, you'll have more than enough for an evening meal. The select menu features a range of 'small plates', priced £4 each or 3 for £11. There are also sharing boards featuring either meat or cheese or a combination of the two for £14.50 a pop. These nibbles are definitely pricier than a bag of crisps down your local pub, but they're also a damn sight tastier – and more filling.

Meat and cheese boards

The meat platter consists of Serrano ham, wild boar saucisson and paté de campagne, served with pickle and hunks of bread. My meat-eating friends assured me the high-quality ham was sliced in house rather than pre-packed, and raved about the smooth texture and flavour of the paté. The cheese board, with its helpings of Manchego, Coat Hill blue and Isle of Mull Cheddar accompanied by bread and homemade quince jelly was more up my street. The presentation of both was excellent, and although I initially thought £14.50 seemed steep for a sharing board, a generous portion between 4 people turned out to be good value.

Feta & basil pastries

The cheese theme continued with feta and basil filo parcels: generous chunks of feta encased in pastry and topped with a drizzle of red pepper sauce. Diet-friendly they're not, but who cares when cheese and pastry taste so irresistible? Waistline-watchers wouldn't fare well with the pork scratchings either: D observed that 'each bite needs a 10k run'. An indulgent, more upmarket take on the bar snack, these homemade scratchings were huge. Served hot, they were so crunchy I swear passers-by at street level could hear our trio of carnivores polishing them off. N wasn't such a fan, saying she'd rather see them served bite-size than in the current stick form, but the boys seemed to enjoy them. The smoked mackerel paté was a universal hit: smooth, creamy and flavoursome without being overpowering, not a sliver was left at the end of our meal.

Lamb koftas & a pint of sausage rolls

The lamb koftas served with tzatziki also went down a treat with the meat-eaters: the lamb mince was mixed with red onion and parsley and apparently tasted incredibly fresh. Everyone thought the mince mixture had been prepared in-house. Also homemade were the sausage rolls served in a pint glass. Novel presentation didn't win any brownie points from this crowd, though, with M commenting that they seemed incongruous on such a sophisticated menu. They weren't exactly your standard sausage roll, with fresh, flaky pastry rather than the usual greying, gluey texture, but even so, they were far from the most popular meat dish. A surprise star was the selection of continental breads served with balasamic vinegar and early harvest olive oil. It's hard to praise such everyday items as bread and oil, but the combination served here was delicious. The oil and balsamic mixed perfectly, reaching a viscous consistency that didn't drip everywhere like most (and believe me, clusmy diner that I am).

With a well-priced, tasty selection of nibbles in an exclusive setting, the Ashmolean Roof Top is a winner in my eyes. If the weather would just have a word with itself, I'm sure the terrace would be packed with a post-work crowd looking for an alternative to a British beer garden. With its huge deck and great views, the Ashmolean's terrace feels much more continental – a feeling its well-chosen, Mediterranean-influenced menu only enhances.

The Ashmolean Dining Room is accessed via the museum (entrance on Beaumont Street) during opening hours. In the evening, use the St Giles entrance.

Excellent photos by Marc Troughton, who's much better with a camera than me.

Riverford Supper Club at Oxfork

2012-07-06T12:00:00.000+01:00

Since the closure of The Ball Green Door, I'd been hoping for another supper club to pop up on the Oxford scene. So when news of Riverford's summer supper club at Oxfork dropped into my inbox, I was quick to sign up. The second seasonal collaboration between organic produce purveyors Riverford (best known for their fruit and veg box deliveries) and East Oxford café Oxfork promised to be a fruitful one. With both businesses keen to promote local produce and eating with the seasons, the idea of holding a supper club where Oxfork chefs whipped up a meat-free menu with Riverford goodies sounded like a winner to me.

With priority for tickets given to Riverford customers, would-be diners had to part with £25 to secure a seat at the supper club. Held on a Wednesday evening in June, the event consisted of nibbles from Riverford's new range washed down with a glass of prosecco, followed by a three-course meal. I had expected to find our fellow diners mingling and chatting on arrival, but instead everyone was seated. To be honest, apart from sharing a table for 4 with 2 other diners (the layout of Oxfork doesn't really lend itself to group dining), little about the evening was reminiscent of a supper club in the more usual sense. Perhaps 'pop-up restaurant' would be a more appropriate tag, given that the venue isn't the chef's home, but as Oxfork is a permanent fixture, that doesn't seem quite the right label either.

Semantics aside, it looked like we were in for a good evening: who doesn't like being greeted by a glass of fizz? Every seat was full; there was a lively hum running through the restaurant. N and I took our seats and sampled a selection of the pre-dinner nibbles on offer from Riverford's 'picnic' range: olives, a couple of dips accompanied with crudités, plus two pies – a homity pie and another unspecified assortment of pastry-encased veg. The homity pie in particular was tasty, with a slightly spicy flavour. As we picked at our entrées, a member of the Oxfork team and Oxford's Riverford representative Jake talked us through the way the evening would unfold: three courses, with organic beers and wines available to purchase by the glass or bottle, followed by coffee and hopefully questions with the chef.

Broad bean and cheese bruschetta

First up was a broad bean and sheep's cheese bruschetta: an explosion of vibrant green served on a quirky vintage plate. The portion size certainly wasn't lacking (N thought it was perhaps even a bit too big; I thought it was value for money) and neither was the flavour. A chunky purée of broad beans and hunks of cheese sat atop slices of olive oil-soaked artisan bread, making for slightly messy eating – not that I cared, it tasted too good. The flavour was enhanced with plenty or garlic and a subtle taste of mint.

The main event: a starch-free zone

After a starter like that, the main had a lot to live up to. Described as 'beetroot with aromatic spices, spring greens with coconut and chilli and cucumber relish', it turned out to be... just that. Two beetroot served with some tastily seasoned veg and a cucumber dip. It was all perfectly flavoursome and wholesome, but it wasn't the most filling dish. It was also completely lacking in carbohydrate or protein, so it wasn't the most balanced of dishes. Concocting a nutritionally sound vegetarian dish is more challenging than catering to meat-eaters, but it surely isn't tough to incorporate a starch into a meal. N and I both felt it would have worked better as a starter, and I was quite underwhelmed by the limited imagination it showed. Simplicity can be a good thing, but I just wasn't convinced by this dish unfortunately.

Cherry clafoutis

One upside to the no-carb main was the stomach space it left for dessert. Thankfully, the cherry clafoutis came in huge slabs. Rather than the dense, flan-like texture I'd sampled in France, Oxfork's take on clafoutis had a lighter finish, with airy sponge studded with fresh cherries. The fruit was incredibly sweet and much tastier than any supermarket offering. Full marks to Riverford for the cherries, and full marks to Oxfork for the baking skills.

After dinner, we were served coffee but there was no tea to be had: I'd expect to be offered an infusion at least. We lingered over our decaf but the chat with the chef didn't materialise. A shame as I wouldn't have minded the clafoutis recipe, if such sacred knowledge could be shared.
All in all, it was a nice evening with some tasty vegetarian food on offer. Both the fruit and veg in the dishes we tried had a much more pronounced flavour than anything I'd buy from the supermarket, making me think that organic could be the way forward. I have to say I think the main course was a bit lacking, but on the whole, the food was delicious and the evening was a good introduction to both Riverford's offerings and to Oxfork's cooking. I'm still on the hunt for an Oxford supper club, though...

Verdict: 8

Riverford organises seasonal evenings at Oxfork. Keep en eye on Oxfork's Facebook page for details of the next one. Tickets cost £25.

My next radio show on 13 July will focus on al fresco dining. Very erm, seasonal. Tune in to BBC Radio Oxford from 1pm on Friday 13 July.

Dosa Park

2012-06-23T10:12:00.003+01:00

It's 7pm, you've got £5 in your pocket and an empty stomach. Looks like a sandwich is the most likely option, unless you want to go down the greasy burger/chips route. Or you could take that fiver to a kebab shop. Not just any kebab shop: Dosa Park. Because as I discovered, not all kebab joints are created equal. In fact, some aren't really kebab shops at all.

You've probably passed by Dosa Park on your way to and from Oxford train station and not spared it a second glance. Unless you found yourself in the aforementioned famished in possession of a fiver situation. Then you might have wandered in and realised they serve far more than just various combinations of meat + chips: they also serve South Indian food. The clue's in the name, really – a dosa is a savoury rice pancake popular in the south of India, as well as in South East Asian countries such as Malaysia and Singapore. In the UK, we're much more familiar with curries from the north of India, Bangladesh or Pakistan, so dosa can be hard to come by. Oxford now has three purveyors of this light, crispy stomach filler: Chutneys, Trichy Dosa and Dosa Park. The latter may look like any other greasy kebab shop, but its cheap cooking gives much pricier Indian restaurants a run for their money.

Glamorous it is not, so unless you're a fan of perching at one of three tables in the admittedly petite interior, you might prefer to take away. You don't even have to pop down to the shop itself to order: they offer free home delivery. M and I visited one evening mid-week, and found another table of girls tucking into dosa and a thali plate, plus plenty of customers dropping in and out for their kebab & chips fix. You can tell the staff prefer to serve Indian food though, and were happy to talk us through the options available. Dosa start at £3 for a plain pancake served with dipping sauces, and the most expensive item on the menu is the £5.99 meat thali (selection of curries, rice and sauces, with a pappadum). If you don't fancy trying a dosa, there are also biryani dishes and both meat and veg-based curries on offer.

Plain dosa

Dhal

We opted for a plain and a masala dosa (stuffed with potatoes in a lightly-spiced sauce), a dhal (vegetarian lentil curry), some plain rice and 2 mango lassi, for the very resonable outlay of £15. Within ten minutes, our table was heaped with piping hot goodness: Dosa Park don't skimp on the portion sizes. The consistency of the dhal was a touch too liquid for my liking, but the taste was spot on; the creaminess of the lentils offset by a peppery note. The dosa were presented on silver platters (Trichy Dosa and your plastic school dinner trays, take note) with dipping sauces, and were crispy and delicious, particularly the masala dosa, which was filling enough to be a meal in its own right. The lassi were also tasty and the perfect complement to our food.

So, next time you have a curry craving close to pay day, make Dosa Park your destination. It's cheap but not chic – but when the food's that good, who cares?

Verdict: 7.5

Dosa Park is at 21 Park End Street, OX1 1HU. Tel: 01865 791197.

Gee's

2012-06-10T19:08:00.000+01:00

A lounge suit, a scholar's gown or even black tie is a common sight on the streets of Oxford. Even on a Tuesday evening. With the staff and students of the city's ancient university accounting for a significant percentage of Oxford's population, you soon get used to its quirks – smart dress mid-week being one of them. After all, this traditional institution has plenty of balls, formal dinners and graduation ceremonies in its calendar. The latter are particularly proud occasions, when beaming families dressed in their finest flock to the Sheldonian Theatre in support of a be-gowned graduand. Ceremony over, it's time to celebrate. But where in Oxford is worthy of such an occasion?

A Victorian conservatory nestled discreetly among university buildings and chic shopfronts on Banbury Road, that's where. Part of the Mogford group of restaurants, Gee's is many Oxford residents' go-to address when it comes to occasion dining. There are regulars too, of course, but I'd wager that a high proportion of diners only visit erm, occasionally. It's a favourite for families celebrating their offspring's intelligence post-graduation, and a popular option for Sunday lunch when well-heeled parents swing by Oxford for a term-time visit. But what does Gee's have to offer those without an event to toast?

Quite a bit, actually. Visiting for a work function on a Thursday evening, more than half the tables in the light-filled dining room were occupied. There was one particularly annoying table of aloof adults with screaming children tearing around the place (more than a little inappropriate given the setting), but apart from that all the other diners looked fairly... well, normal and uncelebratory, actually. Most people associate Gee's with a hefty price-tag, but I found the cost only a little higher than the Mogford group's city centre flagship, Quod. Mains range from £12 to £23, while starters are mostly around the £7 mark. It's clearly not somewhere you'd dine if you were on a tight budget, but nor is it prohibitively expensive. There's also a set menu on offer for lunch or an early dinner, for the reasonable outlay of £16.95 for 2 courses or £20.95 for 3.

The daily menu is small and seasonal, with enough options for meat-eaters but slim pickings for vegetarians. On my visit, I was glad to be a pescetarian rather than a total veggie, as the main of beetroots with cress and curd (£12) didn't exactly sound appealing. All dishes are described minimally, but the staff are helpful when it comes to questions. A little more detail would be helpful though, as would a specials board: I had to enquire about the fish of the day, which turned out to be plaice served with jersey royal potatoes and green beans. The wine list is similarly limited but well-chosen, with plenty of countries and styles covered: the house white (a French Bastille) was fruity and crisp - a definite cut above most house wines. All wines are available by the glass too, which is a nice touch.

Artichokes with broad beans and mint

After placing our orders we were served with warm bread to munch on as we awaited our starters. They arrived quickly enough, and were all well-presented but served in relatively petite portions. The risotto with peas, clams and mint (£7.50) was enjoyed by both A and C, although A's serving featured around 7 clams while C's fell short with only 2. What it lacked in shellfish it made up for in taste, however: C described the texture as 'melt in the mouth'; just al dente enough. The asparagus with parmesan (£6.95) was simple but effective, with the cheese complementing the grilled asparagus rather than overpowering it. My artichokes with broad beans and mint (£7) were equally simple and tasty, if a little oily. M's poorly-described 'prosciutto, chickpea fritter' (£9.75) turned out to be 2 small chickpea croquettes smothered in slices of ham. Served with a tomato chutney, it was tasty but not exactly what he was expecting.

Grilled plaice

Appetites stimulated but not satisfied, we were ready for our mains. My plaice also fell into the 'simple and well-cooked' category, although I felt it could have been more flavoursome. The tomato and caper salsa added a little more taste, but not quite enough. The portion was generous though, and the fish tasted like a good quality cut. C's seared scallops with tomatoes, capers and thyme (£18.75) were a well-prepared treat: the scallops were excellent quality and perfectly cooked, with just a subtle taste of capers. C proclaimed them the best scallops she'd ever had, so Gee's are clearly doing something right. M and S both opted for the rump of lamb with new season garlic and aubergine (£18.75), but it was much more popular with M. On the pink side, M found the lamb delicious, tender and tasty, with the smoky taste of the aubergines providing an ideal counterpoint to the sweetness of the lamb. S found the aubergine a bit too tart, though.

Strawberry & almond tart

After all this, we still had room for dessert - well, it would be rude not to when you're armed with a company credit card, wouldn't it? The chocolate nemesis (£7.50) turned out to be a disappointingly modest piece of chocolate cake served with ice cream. Tricky to tackle it wasn't, but fortunately it tasted good. 3 of us chose the strawberry and almond tart (£6.50), which was more like a clafoutis in texture. It was served in a generous portion, light in texture and topped with plenty of fresh berries. The panna cotta with rhubarb (£6) was equally good, with a delicate contrast of sweet and tart flavours.

Panna cotta. Not egg & chips.

Three courses each at Gee's didn't bust the (work) budget, but it definitely falls into treat territory for most people. With well-prepared food that mostly hit the mark, a sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere (once the screaming brats had departed), you can see why it's so popular for graduation dinners and other celebrations. I can't say that I'd go there for a casual meal, but the set menu seems well worth checking out for a spot of luxury with a modest price tag. Vegetarians may struggle though, so check the menu before visiting if you don't eat meat or fish.

Verdict: 8

Gee's is at 61 Banbury Road, OX2 6PE. Tel: 01865 553540. Booking advised.

Update: As you may have noticed, Girl Eats Oxford reviews are now fortnightly. Now that my one-year mission is over, I'll be publishing at least 2 reviews per month. All recommendations are appreciated, but it may take longer for me to act on them all! I'll still be appearing on BBC Radio Oxford one Friday each month. The next show, on 22 June, focuses on places to dine al fresco in Oxfordshire.

Aziz

2012-05-25T08:01:00.000+01:00

Mention curry in Oxford and it's not long before Aziz crops up in conversation. Something of an institution, this Cowley Road restaurant divides opinion: from raves to rubbishing, I've heard it all. Maybe the wildly varying accounts are what kept me away until now. After all, Oxford has no shortage of decent Indian restaurants.

But in preparation for my 25 May radio show on the topic of Indian restaurants, I decided to branch out from my curry houses of choice and try out Aziz. Turning up with two friends at 6.30 on a Tuesday, I was surprised to be asked whether I'd booked. I know it's a popular spot, but given that only a handful of tables were full at that point, it seemed a little unnecessary. More surprises were in store, as we were seated by an ageing waiter in a full suit, complete with dickie bow and the rather modern accessory of a bluetooth headpiece. Not exactly something you see every day. The menu was much more familiar territory: a manageable selection of starters (priced from £4.15–6.75) followed by a range of special meat, poultry, fish and vegetarian dishes, plus the usual curry classics. There's nothing radically different about the menu, but it covers all bases and caters to all palates. Some of the specials sounded interesting, such as kodu gosht (lamb with pumpkin, £9.75) and eitcha bagaun (medium-spiced prawn with aubergine curry, £9.75). Dishes are priced from £7.75 for a vegetarian main to £12.95 for some king prawn dishes: although prices don't climb too high, I would expect to see some cheaper vegetarian options.

While perusing the menu, we chomped on poppadoms: served in a bowl rather than as individual poppadoms, they come with a good selection of chutneys. The menu's extensive enough without being over-facing, and so we were able to narrow down our choices pretty quickly. As we waited, the restaurant filled up and I begun to understand the waiter's concern at our lack of booking. Established in 1990, Aziz is clearly doing something right if it's packed on a Tuesday evening. Apparently the critics agree: Aziz has scooped numerous awards down the decades, including 3 British Curry Awards and accolades from The Times and The Observer. Given this impressive record, our expectations were pretty high.

Murgh Naryal

Sag Paneer

Our food arrived after an appropriate interval, and we struggled to find space for the 3 mains, 2 portions of rice and 2 naan breads, plus a complimentary vegetable side dish (a bonus that comes with all vegetarian mains). It all looked very appetising, but on digging in, it wasn't exactly piping hot. None of our dishes were cold, but they were definitely just a shade or two above lukewarm. Temperature aside, it was all pretty tasty and served in decent portions. The Murgh nariyal (chicken with coconut milk and cream, £8.95) had a good ratio of chicken to sauce, with decent-sized chunks of chicken and a good creamy taste. I enjoyed both the sag paneer (spinach and cheese) and the motor baigun (aubergines and chickpeas in a lightly-spiced sauce, both £7.95) – the latter was particularly flavoursome, if a little too salty for my taste. S wasn't sure the sag paneer was homemade, despite the menu's claim to the contrary. As I'm more of a sag aloo girl usually, I couldn't hazard a guess. The freebie vegetable dish looked pretty insipid, so we were all surprised to find these limp-looking root vegetables and courgette packed a chilli-and-pepper infused punch. It was pretty tasty, and a complimentary dish is always welcome, as was the token side salad which turned up.

Motor Baigan

Free vegetable side

Naan bread

All in all, it was decent but forgettable. The food was nice enough, if not quite hot enough; the setting and atmosphere are fine and the service was OK, but I won't be rushing back. On receiving the bill, we were all shocked to find that a pint of lime and soda (oh yes, being a food blogger is just so rock and roll) cost £3.25. To be honest, I think that's what I'll remember Aziz for. That, and the fact that the waiter assumed we were leaving a bigger tip than we intended to (especially given limesoda-gate) and kept the change. I'm neither team Aziz nor anti-Aziz: I'm just a bit indifferent. And sticking to tap water from now on.

Verdict: 6

Aziz is at 230 Cowley Road, OX4 1UH. Booking recommended for large groups and at weekends. Take-away available (order online or by phone). Tel: 01865 794945.

On Friday 25 May, I will be discussing Indian restaurants in Oxford on Jo Thoenes's show on BBC Radio Oxford. You can listen live or for up to one week afterwards via this link. If you have any comments on favourite Indian restaurants in Oxfordshire, please email the show or get in touch via their Facebook page.

Breakfast at Hope House, Woodstock

2012-05-11T08:00:00.000+01:00

Apparently it's the most important meal of the day, although you wouldn't think so given the lack of reverence breakfast usually receives. A hurried slice of toast washed down with a mouthful of tea; coffee and a croissant while commuting; a bowl of cereal bolted down in front of a computer screen. As someone who can't function effectively/behave like a polite human being on an empty stomach, it will come as no surprise that food is top of my morning priorities. As present and past housemates could tell you with varying degrees of amusement or envy, I always find time to sit down and eat a proper breakfast before leaving for work. So when I heard that swish hotel Hope House in Woodstock was worth an overnight stay for its breakfast alone, I was intrigued.

Hope House

The ancestral home of the Money family (with a surname like that, it's no wonder they have an ancestral home), Hope House was transformed into an upmarket boutique B & B back in 2009. Built around the same as local landmark Blenheim Palace (and possibly designed by the same architect), with just 3 suites Hope House is an exclusive address in the heart of Woodstock. As it's a Grade II listed building, the refurbishment retained Hope House's period features, but the guest rooms boast plenty of contemporary touches. There are all the high-end trappings you'd expect of anywhere described as 'boutique': flat-screen TVs, iPod docks, roll-top baths and funky chaise longues.

Staying at Hope House is certainly a luxurious experience, but there's none of the faceless impersonality you sometimes encounter at high-end hotels. Given the exclusivity of the place and its warm welcome, there's a feeling of being guest in someone's (admittedly very swanky) home. Everything is focused on guest comfort and convenience: foodies will be keen to note that suites come equipped with a well-stocked fridge with drinks and snacks at 'pub prices', and the now rather rare tea and coffee making facilities. We're not talking about a travel kettle, a couple of sachets of Nescafé and a forlorn Tetley tea bag here though: there's a coffee press, choice of premium grounds and a selection of Teapigs infusions (including breakfast tea for the traditionalists, or course). With such a thirst-quenching spread in the bedroom, N and I could only imagine what the breakfast table was going to look like the following morning.

Hungry?

Hope House prides itself on its breakfast, and it's easy to see why. Taking our seats in the wood-panelled Vanbrugh restaurant, we surveyed the tale laden with fruit, cereals, muesli, yoghurt, meats and cheeses, itching to get stuck in. Before succumbing, we ordered coffee and chose from the extensive cooked breakfast menu, which features all the elements of a full English breakfast, combined however you want them. Vegetarians are well catered-for, with eggs prepared to order and vegetarian sausages also on offer. The bespoke approach extends to the rest of the breakfast menu - staff can prepare any combination of fruit juices you can dream up using the fruit available in the buffet selection.

Home-baked bread and pastries

The exotic fruit options are one of the few components of Hope House's breakfast that aren't sourced locally. The first emphasis is on quality, so if a local product is inferior to something you can find elsewhere (Kelloggs Cornflakes, for example), the superior option is chosen. Luckily for guests, Oxfordshire and the surrounding counties have plenty of excellent produce to offer, and as a result, Hope House receives no national deliveries. Eggs are laid by the hotel's own free-range chickens; meat is supplied by Callow Farm in Wootton Woodstock, which rears Gloucester Old Spot pigs; mushrooms and tomatoes are locally grown and cheeses include Simon Weaver's organic Cotswold brie. Jams and honeys also hail from Hope House's environs, with the honey produced by bees kept on the Blenheim Palace estate, and jams are made with local fruit by Sarah Doige, a prima ballerina turned award-winning preserve maker. All dairy products come from within the county too, with some yoghurts made on site and others supplied by a local dairy. Butter is organic and traditionally churned at nearby Netherend Farm, and tastes delicious slathered on the selection of toast provided. By this point, it was no surprise to find that the bread was baked at Hope House using Oxfordshire flour and wild yeast - nor that it tasted better than any shop-bought offerings.

Unlike so many restaurants, the emphasis on local produce isn't just a case of Hope House jumping on a bandwagon - chatting to owner Paul, he seemed to genuinely care about the environment, and is committed to sourcing as much of the hotel's breakfast produce from within the local community. It's an approach that pays off, and not only for the Oxfordshire economy. Hope House's home-made muesli (packed with a well-chosen combination of nuts, seeds and fruit) was superior to even my personal favourite Dorset Cereals; their home-baked croissants passed muster with N, who as a Belgian is entitled to call herself a croissant conoisseur. They were served warm, crisp on the outside and just doughy enough on the inside.

Cumberland sausage and scrambled egg

We followed up our muesli, fruit, yoghurt, toast and croissants (ahem) with cumberland sausage and scrambled egg (N) and a vegetarian sausage, mushrooms, grilled tomato and a potato farl for me. I was surprised that N was only given one sausage, but given the amount of food we'd already put away it was probably for the best. The texture of the scrambled egg was reportedly 'perfect', and N liked the fact that it had been left unseasoned so that guests can season their own eggs to taste. My sausage was encased in breadcrumbs - a little unusual, but tasty - and the mushrooms, tomatoes and potato farl all tasted as good as they looked.

Vegetarian breakfast

Hope House is a place after my own heart: a place where breakfast really is the most important meal of the day.

Hope House is at 14 Oxford Street, Woodstock OX20 1TS. Tel: 01993 815990.

I was a guest of Hope House. Breakfast is for guests only.

Sunday lunch at The Cape of Good Hope

2012-04-27T12:30:00.000+01:00

Conveniently located as a compromise venue for meet-ups between residents of OX4 and the rest of the city, The Cape of Good Hope is somewhere I'd choose to quench an alcohol thirst. With a decent wine selection and a range of ales, beers and ciders on tap, it doesn't disappoint. I've also been known to order one of their fish finger sandwiches a few drinks in. But I'd never really thought of going there specifically to eat.

A few weekends ago, a series of unfortunate incidents involving country walks and blisters meant that M, S and I missed the window for Sunday lunch out in the Chilterns. Caught out at that awkward time of 5pm with nothing consumed since breakfast but cake, we returned to the city. Our first port of call, The Black Boy, didn't start serving food again until 6. I was in danger of gnawing at my own arm, so we proceeded to The Cape. And it didn't let us down: Sunday roasts are served all day. Their normal menu changes daily, and features pimped-up pub classics with some locally-sourced ingredients, such as Gloucester Old Spot sausages with crushed pea mash and red wine gravy. On Sundays, they dish up a selection of traditional starters (including potted smoked mackerel and a cured meat platter), roasts and a few mains, among them fish & chips, a West Country beef burger and a fig, goat's cheese, pecan and squash tart.

Nut roast

As a non-meat eater, Sundays are not my favourite day to dine in pubs. Most offer a choice of meaty roasts, but leave vegetarians out in the culinary cold with a couple of salads or goat's cheese and red onion tarts (less inspiring than The Cape's version). I was impressed to see The Cape offered a nut roast with all the trimmings for £9.50. Made from cashews, almonds, peanuts and walnuts with mature cheddar, vegetables and herbs, it was a real treat: densely packed with ingredients, it was a far cry from the dried-up shop-bought versions I've been disappointed by in the past. The herbs really lifted the flavour. The homemade yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and vegetables were also well-prepared: a very satisfying veggie roast all round, especially given the portion size.

Pork. I think it tasted better than it looked.

M tried the Norfolk pork with crackling (£10.50)and S the half a Shropshire chicken with thyme and parsley butter (£9.75). Both were served in generous portions and got a big thumbs up, although they both suspected that a vegetarian gravy had been used for all 3 dishes, which they were less keen on. Obviously this didn't bother me, but roast purists may prefer a traditional gravy. They couldn't argue with the good value though.

If you're dining out with vegetarians on a Sunday, give The Cape a go.

Verdict: 7.5 (9 for the veggie option)

The Cape of Good Hope is on the Plain, OX4 1EA.

La Galleria

2012-04-20T12:30:00.001+01:00

In the oh-so-English town of Woodstock, you'll find a little corner of Sardinia. Tucked in between the Cotswold stone shop-fronts and ivy-covered pubs stands La Galleria: a restaurant with a menu full of traditional Italian cooking; the perfect antidote to all those pizza and pasta chains.

Peeking in through the window on a Saturday evening, it may have looked a little like a living room circa 1990 (modern and minimalist La Galleria is not), but it was a living room packed with guests. Opened by Sardinian Lucio in the 1990s (perhaps explaining the decor), the restaurant is popular with both locals and visitors to Woodstock. Taking our seat at the last available table, we took in our surroundings: intimate and smart yet relaxed. The size of La Galleria helps to create a convivial atmosphere, with conversations starting up between diners at different tables as the evening progressed.

Nibbling on hunks of warm bread and sipping a far-too-drinkable glass of Sardinian Sauvignon Blanc, N and I perused our dining options. The menu begins with a selection of classic appetizers, from £5.95 for a soup to £9.50 for the calamari fritti, served with an intriguing-sounding tomato, garlic and avocado salsa. In true Italian style, the pasta and risotto selections are available both as smaller portions (£8.95) for those who want to continue their meal with some meat or fish, and in main course portions (£2 extra). All tastes are covered by the pastas, with a number of vegetarian options, as well as a nod to the owner's roots with the Sardinian malloredos pasta served with spicy sausage, broccoli, tomato and pecorino. I was pleased to note that risotto is made from scratch, but this unfortunately means that at least 2 diners must order it to make the preparation worthwhile. Next up are a selection of fish and meat options, with the latter particularly well represented: carnivores will have trouble choosing between dishes such as pollo alla salvia (boneless chicken cooked in white wine and wrapped in bacon and sage, £13.50) and spiedini di manzo kashis (baked slices of beef tenderloin skewered with onions, mushroom and peppers in a garlic sauce, £16.95).

Crab linguine

N and I opted to begin with a crab linguine, and were impressed by both the size of the portion and the dramatic presentation: strands of pasta spilling from a crab shell. The taste didn't disappoint either: packed with fresh crab meat, it was unexpectedly spicy, with a slightly sweet aftertaste. The generosity of the serving made us a little concerned that we'd be pushing our stomachs to the limit with 3 courses: less hardy (or hungry) diners would probably cope with a portion this size for their main course.

Fresh flounder. There's just no way of making whole fish look as appealing as it tastes, sadly.

Fortunately N and I had brought our appetites. Our mains of fresh flounder with lemon and capers turned out to be served whole, but the flaky fish proved light enough for us to tackle. As a slightly squeamish pescetarian, I don't find the eyes 'n' all look that appealing on a fish, but my time in Spain taught me to toughen up, so I got stuck in. The fresh taste of the fish was my reward: it was simply but beautifully cooked, the light flesh well complemented by the lemon and caper butter.

Side dishes

We also tucked into the accompanying vegetables: mixed broccoli, carrot and green beans; courgette fries; potatoes with rosemary and cauliflower topped with cheese. The fries were an authentically Italian touch, the potatoes delicious and the cauliflower moved lifelong avoider N to state 'that's the first time I've enjoyed cauliflower'. Apparently her mother will be proud.

Amaretto cake

Flagging slightly at the thought of dessert, we rallied when we saw the tiramisu the couple next to us were tucking into. Their rave review spurred us on, but sadly they had bagged the last serving. Our very apologetic waitress returned with samples of two other sweets for us to try, and N opted for a portion of the chocolate mousse cake while I chose the amaretto one. My dessert featured layers of sponge and cream, with an amaretto syrup providing a subtle almond flavour. N's cake had a light consistency on top, with more substance provided by the cake based. We stretched our appetites and our waistbands to the limit, but it was worth it.

Chocolate mousse cake

Lingering over coffee, we watched Lucio work the room, checking that diners were enjoying their evenings and joking with regulars. With excellent traditional cooking, a strong wine list and good service on offer, it was no surprise to observe that La Galleria has such a loyal following. If you want an authentic Italian experience that doesn't involve a pizza oven, consider a trip to Woodstock. It may be a little more pricey than a pizzeria, but it's well worth the extra spend.

Verdict: 8.5

La Galleria is at 2 Market Place, Woodstock OX20 1TA. Tel: 01993 813381. Reservations recommended at weekends.

Year one: Top picks

2012-04-13T13:02:00.000+01:00

Of the 40 or so restaurants, cafes and pubs I've visited over the past year, a few stand out. Whether it be for the quality of the food, the setting or the service, I've definitely developed a few favourites.

While many of my top picks after six months hold firm (particularly for vegetarian dining), the second half of my mission opened my eyes to some new contenders.

Best meal: One of my most memorable experiences was at supper club The Ball Green Door, the only place to scoop a perfect 10 score. Everything was spot on; from the welcome to the post-dinner coffee with hand-made chocolates, it was a thoroughly enjoyable experience. The food was excellent, and even more impressive for being home-made rather than produced in a full-scale restaurant kitchen. Unfortunately for the people of Oxford, The Ball Green Door is currently on hiatus, so my runners up are The Rickety Press and Brasserie Blanc.

Best occasion dining: With a smart setting, excellent service and great food, Brasserie Blanc is another star in this category. The value its set menus offers means that it's fairly friendly on the pocket, too. The Ashmolean Dining Room certainly has an incomparable venue, but I wish its menu would change a little more often and that specials were on offer. For a one-off treat with the glamour factor, it's still got what it takes though.

Best pub: It's still got to be The Rickety Press for me!

Best cafe: So popular it's a challenge to get a table on weekend mornings, Oxfork is the city's most talked-about cafe with good reason. The food's a cut above usual offerings: a full English here is no greasy spoon affair, but a locally-sourced, lovingly-prepared treat. The quirky setting helps, but I find friendly but erratic the best way to describe the service. Skip brunch if you want a more relaxing experience and come here for coffee and homemade cake instead. I'm also a big fan of the cute pop-up cafes at East Oxford Farmers' Market, including The Moving Teashop.

Best budget: Red Star wins for me hands down. If I ever want something cheap, filling and quick, this is where I go. No frills, but then you don't pay for them either.

Best service: Looking back over the past year, La Cucina stands out for me. Our waitress was helpful and polite yet friendly without being informal: perfect. She made sure to talk us through the specials, and was happy to explain a couple of menu items to our group.

So, there you have my latest batch of top picks. Let's see what year two brings...

Hackett's

2012-04-04T19:54:00.002+01:00

Multipurpose is all well and good, but how often does it actually work? From the face wipe that promises to cleanse, tone and moisturise in one sweep to the restaurant, bar and café catering to all types of customer, I find that many of these multi-taskers are significantly more skilled in one area than others. When it comes to dining, a venue that offers a casual experience during the day and ups the gastro and glamour stakes come sunset sounds like a recipe for success – but can all the required ingredients combine to create something memorable?

Hackett's in Witney describes itself as a 'coffee bar and bistro'. So far, so French: casual cafés across the channel often serve both coffee and more substantial meals under one roof. They might not always set the culinary world alight, but they're reliable. So, is Hackett's following the French recipe for success then? Based on whispers I'd heard about the quality of their food, not exactly: their 'bistro' element seemed to extend into stay rant territory. With increasing expectations of my visit, a colleague informed me that Hackett's was 'also lovely for a cocktail'. Yet another 'purpose', I thought.

I arrived on a Thursday evening unsure what to expect. A café serving good food? A restaurant with a bar? It turns out Hackett's is a bit of both. A light, airy space with high ceilings and a mezzanine level, Hackett's is located in central Witney. Open all day, it serves both food and drink – I was impressed to note both diners and drinkers in evidence on my visit, some of the latter just having a coffee and a chat. So far, so multipurpose. With a combination of relaxed armchairs and restaurant-style tables, patrons select the option they prefer: there didn't seem to be distinct areas for cafe customers and diners, although one cosy corner looked perfect for sipping a latte and leafing through a magazine.

While both casual fare (including sandwiches) and main meals are on offer at lunch, the main menu is all about well-cooked modern British and European dishes. The menu changes monthly and is comprehensive without being over-facing: with 5 starters, 3 sharing 'slates' (fish, charcuterie or cheese, all £8.95) and 8 mains, you should find something to tempt you. Vegetarian options were a little limited though: just 2 starters (a caramelised goat's cheese and beetroot salad and the risotto of the day) and one main (open wild mushroom, ricotta and butternut squash cannelloni) were on offer. Fortunately I was happy with the choices, and opted for the salad (£5.95) and the cannelloni, while my dinner companion M chose seared king scallops with a garden pea 'risotto', black pudding and crackling (£6.95) followed by seared duck breast served with smoked bacon in a wild mushroom madeira sauce (£13).

After a bit of a wait, our friendly waitress delivered our starters. Both were beautifully presented, although the size of the plate used for the goat's cheese (not sure about the 'salad' part) made it appear miniscule in comparison to the plentiful portion of scallops in front of M. Quality definitely made up for quantity though: the goat's cheese was deliciously creamy and well-complemented by both the beetroot and the beetroot and 'microherb' (nope, no idea either) puree. As I've mentioned before, I'm not a big beetroot lover, but this was tender and surprisingly moreish - and didn't taste of soil. All in all, it was a simple but well-executed dish.

Goat's cheese and beetroot salad

M's scallops sat atop what looked like a bed of mushy peas, but she assured me the texture was much better. The texture of the scallops was also spot on: no rubbery little numbers here. The black pudding flavour complemented the scallops well, and Hackett's generosity with the king scallops was quite impressive. It may have been the priciest starter on the menu, but £6.95 for that amount of scallops is far from expensive.

King scallops with pea risotto and black pudding

Our mains were similarly well turned-out, with the size of my cannelloni more than compensating for the starter's petite proportions. In fact, I was glad it had turned out to be a taster rather than a tummy-filler: I certainly didn't want to leave any of my cannelloni. The ricotta added just enough of a cheese taste without overpowering the dish: the wild mushrooms and squash did the talking. The cannelloni was topped with rocket, tomato and pine nuts, along with a garlic crouton. Plenty of ingredients, but none were unnecessary – the dish really worked.

Mushroom, butternut squash and ricotta cannelloni

M's duck breast with purple sprouting broccoli and bubble and squeak was pretty hefty, portion-wise. The duck was well-cooked and given a pleasant smoky flavour by the bacon, although the latter was a touch on the fatty side. Both the accompaniments won praise: the broccoli was just the right side of al dente, while the bubble and squeak was vegetable-packed and tasty.

Seared duck breast with bacon

If I'd have been wearing a belt, I'd have been loosening it by this point. Thankfully unencumbered by acessories, I was free to eat half a dessert. On the waitress's recommendation, we opted for the chocolate and pecan brownie with hot fudge sauce and vanilla ice cream (£5). So far, so classic. The tip off didn't disappoint though, as a Hackett's brownie is a rich slice of indulgence. Pecan-packed, it featured a thick chocolate topping over a moist, chewy cake. Its slight orange flavour set it apart from other brownies I've had: a must-order dessert if there ever was one.

Brownie, (or a piece of heaven)

Based on my trip to Hackett's, I might have to re-think my multipurpose venue prejudice. The combination on offr at Hackett's sounds like it might not work: a coffee bar and restaurant can maybe coexist side-by-side, but one entity serving as both? Yes, it's possible. A welcoming, laid-back venue with good food at decent prices, Hackett's is ideal for a casual get-together at any time of day.

Verdict: 8.5

Hackett's is at Wesley Walk, High Street, Witney OX28 6ZJ. Tel: 01993 700858.

One year

2012-04-01T10:30:00.000+01:00

Today marks one year since the official start of my Girl Eats Oxford project. Since then, I've reviewed 42 eateries in around the city; eaten very well; seen more of my friends; gained a few pounds weight-wise and lost a few money-wise. I've also learned a lot about what exactly makes a restaurant experience 'good'.

I make no secret of the fact that I'm no 'food critic'. I'm an ordinary girl who likes dining out a possibly extraordinary amount. Like most other restaurant customers, I enjoy well-priced, well-presented dishes at a decent price. And if the atmosphere's friendly and inviting and the service good, so much the better. Sounds simple enough, but it always doesn't seem to be the easiest formula to recreate.

Fortunately, I've had mostly positive experiences of dining in Oxford. When I began this blog, I imagined that I could eat at most of the restaurants I was recommended in 12 months. One year on, I feel as though I could easily continue this project for several years: there are still so many cafes, pubs and restaurants to explore. So, I've decided to continue my mission for as long as I remain in the city. After all, there's still plenty to eat - and report back.

Reviewing restaurants makes you look at dining out differently. Every detail matters: from being greeted and seated to paying up, visiting a restaurant is an experience. While the food's usually the main event (antics with carpets notwithstanding), it's not just about what's on the menu. The material the table cloth's made of? I noticed it. The Christmas decorations still on display in February? I made a note of them. The lack of salt and pepper on the table didn't get past me either. But don't worry, I also saw the specials board and the selection of spirits behind the bar. Oh, and the waiter's smile.

Based on all these hawk-eyed observations, here are a few lessons I've learned over the past year.

1) Service matters
Sounds obvious, doesn't it. Treat customers well and they'll not only return, they'll probably recommend the restaurant to their friends too. So it's worth putting a little effort in to make a good impression. Indifferent service I can cope with; having to ask for a menu five minutes after being seated or waiting for half an hour for the table to be cleared when a restaurant isn't even busy, less so. I find I'm much more likely to return somewhere with decent food and friendly service than somewhere with excellent food where I've received below-par treatment. Timely service and a smile goes a really long way.
2) Salt belongs in a cellar
Those tea-light holders brimming with sea salt sure look cute, but remember what your mum told you about the nuts on a pub bar. Yep, your fingers aren't the first to touch those crystals.
3) Comprehension is key
If customers can't understand half the dishes on a menu, they feel intimidated. Enquiring after the odd ingredient or fancily-named sauce is fine, but trying to decipher a series of dishes that may as well have been inscribed in a foreign tongue isn't. Pretension has no place on a menu either: if you mean chips, say so. Everyone knows what you mean by 'chipped potato' anyway. You're fooling nobody.
4) Background noise
An empty restaurant is about as inviting as dinner with a dictator. Atmosphere isn't easy to create and there's no real substitute for the hum of a restaurant buzzing with diners, but some well-chosen music helps. Or even just some music. Nobody wants to feel like they're eating in a library.
5) Decor shouldn't stop at the dining room door
Customers also judge that other room they visit. I can't say I've been tempted to write separate reviews for the little girls' rooms (this site has it covered anyway), but everyone notices a bad bathroom. A lick of paint, some basic cleanliness and paper are the minimum; decent paper towels rather than a greying cotton one and a supply of fragrant handwash that doesn't bear a supermarket own brand label elevate a bathroom's status significantly. How to raise the bathroom bar even higher? Just add hand cream.

'And what about the restaurants themselves?', I hear you cry. 'Which is your favourite?'
That, dear reader, will have to wait until next week when I list my top picks from the last year.

I've also learned a lot about blogging in the past year. If any ladies reading are keen to find out more about how to use blogs to promote yourself or your business, come down to Fe-line Women's Word of Mouth: How to be a shameless self-promoter event at the Phoenix Picturehouse Bar on 10 April at 8pm, where I'll be sharing the wisdom of my experience alongside Jo, Fe-line's organizer and marketing professional.

The Grand Cafe

2012-03-24T10:30:00.001+00:00

There's something about the first flush of spring in Oxford that makes me feel incredibly English. I'm not sure whether it was the daffodils down by the river or that first annual glimpse of pasty white legs showcased in shorts, but this particular Sunday had me craving a cream tea. Visiting the UK from her usual home in Spain, my friend K was only too happy to share my oh-so-English craving, so we made our way to the Grand Café on High Street.

Apparently the site of the first coffee house in England (as claimed by Samuel Pepys), these days the Grand Café is all gilt and mirrors. Classic in style it may be, but it's certainly no historical relic: it's quietly buzzing at all hours of the day. Its petite proportions could be overshadowed by its imposing neighbour the Examination Schools, but the colonnaded front and swish interior of the Grand Café hold their own. Open daily for brunch, light lunches, afternoon tea and cocktails, it's certainly a multipurpose venue, but there's something about its slightly overblown interior that just suggests indulgence to me.

Served from 2-5pm, afternoon tea is one of the Grand Café's mainstays, if the scone-laden tabletops around us were anything to go by. The Grand High Tea (£16.50) reads like the perfect reason to ignore government guidelines for calorie consumption: sandwiches of the smoked salmon & cream cheese and egg mayonnaise varieties, scones served with jam and clotted cream, handmade chocolate truffles, a glass of champagne and of course, tea (or coffee for the less traditional). Just a couple of hours after our picnic lunch, neither of us could quite find room for this decadent delight, so we both ordered the more modest-sounding cream tea (£7.50) of scones and err, tea.

Hungry?

Modest wasn't really the right adjective to describe the two-tier cake stand that appeared: laden with four sizeable scones, it's not to be recommended for those without an appetite - in fact, two could easily share. We delved straight in though, smearing the warm scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam. Two scones were plain and two studded with currants, catering to all preferences. There wasn't quite enough clotted cream to cover four scones to an indulgent degree, but once we'd caught the waitress's attention, this was quickly rectified.

Twenty minutes later, my spring cream tea craving was happily satisfied. The Grand Café's definitely a good place to indulge: although their brunch and lunch options sound tempting enough (fillet of salmon with a soft boiled egg and green beans, for example) they look lean and sophisticated rather than true treats. The setting enhances the experience, too: elegant without being too imposing, its mirrored walls, marble columns and splashes of gilt all help to make a visit to the Grand Café feel like an occasion. The service is undertaken by pretty young things rather than austere waiters in starched uniforms, adding a touch of informality. All in all, this is real 'treat yourself' territory.

Verdict: 7

The Grand Café is at 84 High Street, OX1 4BG. Tel: 01865 204463.

Mamma Mia

2012-03-16T12:15:00.000+00:00

In hindsight, taking a group of people currently resident in Florence to an Italian restaurant in Oxford probably wasn't my most inspired idea. We Brits may have taken Italian cuisine to our hearts and annexed its deliciousness, treasuring it almost as much as a Sunday roast, but that doesn't necessarily mean that our offerings will compare with Tuscan fare. In this tale, they certainly don't.

The evening didn't start well. That's a lie: it started far too well. One happy hour cocktail in the Duke of Cambridge led to another and soon my protesting stomach was warning me that it was already 7.30pm. Our original desitination, Branca, was packed, so we tried our luck at Walton Street's other Italian, Mamma Mia. The second branch of the popular Summertown pizzeria, this welcoming spot has been open a couple of years. It's smart and inviting, with cheery decor and friendly staff.

If you're in the mood for pasta or pizza, Mamma Mia is the place to be. If you're not feeling the 'Italian foodsuffs beginning with p' vibe, you'd do well to give it a miss. Although the antipasti are traditionally Italian, in the rustic 'what nonna used to make' vein, the rest of the menu is limited to wheaty treats and salad. The antipasti are worth more than a glance: simple, rustic-sounding starters including baked goat's cheese with fresh tomatoes on ciabatta come in at around £4.95. If you want a double dose of wheat (or have a small appetite), you can also opt for a starter-size pasta portion. The rest of the menu is reasonably priced, with a decent selection of pasta and pizza options from the standard (margherita, £6.75 and spaghetti puttanesca, £8.55) to the more interesting (goat's cheese, spinach and red onion pizza, £8.55, or rigatoni with smoked salmon in a cream and dill sauce, £8.95). If you fancy a bit more of grandma's traditional cooking though, you won't find it on Mamma Mia's menu.

The Italian contingent (who were actually Brazilian, English and French, but let's not complicate an already tricky situation) didn't have much appetite after their lunchtime fish and chip feast, so they opted for antipasti or to share plates of pizza. Y's baked goat's cheese on toast went down a treat, while N and D enjoyed their baked mozzarella wrapped in aubergine and parma ham (£5.95), praising its creamy texture and combination of flavours.

Whitebait & baked mozzarella

The whitebait (£4.95) was described as 'decent', but their Mediterranean pizza (topped with smoked chicken, chorizo, red onion and capers, £8.95) didn't receive many compliments. The base was a little underdone, the crust far from crispy (as the Florence-dwellers have come to expect) - this surprised me, as I remembered the pizza at Mamma Mia's South Parade branch being excellent. The Brazilians were similarly underwhelmed with their pizza.

Mediterranean pizza

Linguine gamberoni

The pasta was better received: both A and I had linguine gamberoni, with tiger prawns, cherry tomatoes, chilli and rocket (£9.95), which was served in a generous portion. I was surpised to find that it came in a tomato sauce: I'd been expecting plain pasta mixed with the ingredients. The sauce was rich and tasty though, so I wasn't complaining.

Even without the added complication of raised expectations on the part of my fellow diners, Mamma Mia failed to shine. Keeping its menu simple and sticking to a small repetoire of dishes should help the chefs to excel in what they produce, but sadly we felt that our meals were fairly average. My pasta was enjoyable enough but not outstanding, while the pizza was disappointing compared to other offerings in Oxford. It's a shame, as the restaurant itself is atmospheric and inviting, and the staff friendly and helpful. But next time I'm craving Italian foodstuffs beginning with 'p', I'll probably head East to La Cucina or Mario's instead.

Verdict: 6

Mamma Mia is at 102 Walton Street, OX2 6EB and 8 South Parade, OX2 7JL. Tel: 01865 311211 (Jericho) or 01865 514141 (Summertown).

The Black Boy

2012-03-08T19:46:00.002+00:00

It's taken almost a year, but here's my first review for the OX3 postcode. Shameful or telling? Well, Headington's not local for me and nor is it in the way of much passing trade, unlike the bar and boutique hubs of Jericho and Cowley. Tucked away from the main road, Old Headington is even less accessible. So when a restaurant located there is repeatedly recommended, it seems like you're on to a winner.

The Black Boy certainly has some champion credentials, not least a glowing review from The Observer's Jay Rayner and an appearance on the 50 best gastro pubs in the country list. Frequently billed as a gastro pub, I found the reality more akin to a restaurant: the leather-backed chairs and elaborately patterned wallpaper didn't really scream 'pub dining room' to me. Whatever bracket The Black Boy falls into, it's an inviting spot: welcoming, well-decorated and intimate without being cramped.

M and I visited on a Tuesday evening to spend a Living Social voucher valid for 2 courses and 2 glasses of wine. We chose from a set menu that was less limited than I had feared: 3 starters and 4 mains were on offer, with a meat, fish and vegetarian option for each course. I opted for a Greek salad followed by fish pie, while M chose a smoked haddock and salmon fish cake to start and bangers and mash for her main. The house wine was decent and cheap at just £3 a glass, while the rest of the wine list was varied and well-priced. The main menu is British with international influences, with starters including potted English trout and shrimp served with toasted homemade bread (£6.95) and Clonakilty black pudding with a soft poached egg and pancetta (£7.50). Starters are a little on the pricey side (mostly around the £7 mark), with mains such as roasted cod loin with spring onion and potato rosti, mussels and a cream and saffron sauce more reasonable around £12.95. There are also plenty of specials to choose from: 3 starters and 4 mains on the day we visited. At lunch time, sandwiches are also available, but don't expect a chunk of cheese wedged between hunks of bread: at £6.50 plus, these are deluxe doorstops.

Greek salad

Even after polishing off two slices of homemade bread, I was ready for my generously-sized Greek salad. You know what you're getting with a Greek salad: feta, tomatoes, cucumber, red onion. And apparently, loads of herbs. I can't say they were an entirely welcome addition, especially the dill - I found I was picking bits out of my teeth for the rest of the evening. A winning look, I'm sure.

Fish cake

M's mammoth smoked haddock and salmon fishcake served on a bed of wilted spinach with a beurre blanc was much more successful: with a crispy crust, a lemony taste and plenty of fish filling, it was a more than satisfactory starter.

Fish pie

Our fortunes were reversed when it came to the main courses. My fish pie was comfort food at its best: creamy, just a little bit cheesy and packed full of chunks of salmon, potato and carrot. Accompanied by green beans, it was hugely filling yet moreish - I'd definitely order it again, given that it graces the main menu for £10.50. M's bangers and mash was served in a huge portion but failed to delight. Although the sausages were tasty, the lumpy mash was a little more reminiscent of school dinners than gastro fare. Still, the beer jus the bangers were cooked in helped to redeem the dish. Suitably full, we passed on the selection of classic desserts (around £6.50) and headed on home, pleased with our bargain evening.

With good service, a warm atmosphere and decent food, The Black Boy makes a detour into Old Headington worthwhile. Judging by the almost packed dining room on a Tuesday evening, it seems the rest of Oxford thinks so too. If you're after somewhere smart-casual rather than a gastro pub such as The Rickety Press, it's definitely a reliable choice. The jury's still out on the rest of OX3, but I'd return to The Black Boy another go.

Verdict: 7.5

The Black Boy is at 91 Old High Street, Headington, OX3 9 HT. Tel: 01865 741137.

I'll be talking about Italian restaurants in Oxfordshire on BBC Radio Oxford on Friday 9 March from 1pm. You can listen online live or for one week afterwards through this link.

Running out of time

2012-03-01T12:30:00.000+00:00

It's one month today until the official end of my year of eating my way around Oxford. When I began my project at the start of April 2011, I wasn't sure how it would all work out - whether anyone would actually read my rambling, whether I'd be able to keep up. Thankfully the answers to both those wonderings were 'yes', and although I'm a little bit heavier and my wallet a little bit lighter than one year ago, I've really enjoyed having the excuse to dine out with frivolous frequency, see my friends more often and write about my discoveries. My monthly slot on BBC Radio Oxford was the icing on the cake, and one of the many reasons why I've decided to continue the project beyond its initial one year scope.

Regular readers might have noticed that my reviews have been a little less frequent this year. Well, restaurant reviewing isn't the only hobby I took up in 2011: more surprisingly (to myself anyway), I've also started running. And on 1 April, a year since Girl Eats Oxford began, I'll be running the Reading Half Marathon in aid of Sue Ryder Care. If anyone ever tries to tell you that training for a half marathon isn't time-consuming, you have my permission to laugh in their faces: all that pounding the pavements really cuts into the time I could be spending gallivanting around Oxford's eateries.

I'll be back on track with my weekly reviews soon, and you can tune in to BBC Radio Oxford on Friday 9 March to hear my recommendations for Italian restaurants in Oxfordshire. In the meantime, please bear with me as I prioritise running over refuelling. If you'd like to be so kind as to sponsor me, that would of course be much appreciated both by me and Sue Ryder Care, who work incredibly hard to provide support to those with life-changing illnesses, as well as hospice care. My employers have kindly offered to match what I raise through sponsorship, so even a little will go a long way.

Thanks for your continued readership and recommendations!

On location: Istanbul

2012-02-26T10:00:00.003+00:00

Meat-heavy meze and kebabs: I had to admit, although the sights of Istanbul captured my imagination, the sustenance didn't really have the same effect. I was certainly looking forward to touring Topkapi Palace, getting snap happy in the Hagia Sophia and taking a ferry across the Bosphorus from Europe to Asia, but the prospect of finding enough pescetarian-friendly fodder for 3 days was decidedly daunting.

The guidebooks did little to allay my fears; the Guardian fared better: thanks to its helpful 'top 10' guides, I discovered the Istanbul Eats bloggers and their tips for dining in the city. Vegetarian food barely got a mention, but fish restaurants seemed plentiful, and I learned that intrepid diners can fill up on a sandwich stuffed with the grilled catch of the day down by Galata Bridge, which is packed full of fishermen from dawn until dusk. Thankfully, Turkey's most cosmopolitan city seems to be cottoning on to serving meat-free fare, partly in order to cash in on the tourist trade. I was also pleased to note the availability of vegetarian options in the city's meyhanes (traditional restaurants specialising in meze).

The Blue Mosque

Rumeli

A rare find in the tourist haven of Sultanahmet (where the palace, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are all located), Rumeli is a restaurant free of tiresome touts. It doesn't need any: it's simple menu of well-prepared Turkish and international dishes speaks for itself. The setting is cosy and intimate, with exposed brick walls and an open fire offering some welcome respite from the February chill. My vegetable kebab (17 TL) turned out to be a plate of various grilled vegetables and rice, while A's shish kebab (26 TL) at least featured a stick to hold it together, conforming to our expectations of a kebab. Both were delicious and reasonably-priced for the area, although the meat was significantly more than the vegetarian dish. We we also served a complimentary basket of bread and some olives.

Vegetable kebab

Rumeli is at Ticarethane Sokak 8, Sultanahmet. Open daily.

Topkapi Palace

Sefa
A lokanta is where spending-savvy Turks choose to lunch. With a counter filled with constantly replenished hot dishes, customers at these budget restauants choose by sight from the meat, fish and vegetable dishes on offer, which are then served to them at their table. Frills are minimal at Sefa, although this Sultanahmet spot was a cut above some we saw. We were reassured by the fact that we were the only tourists dining as we tucked into our plates of admittedly rather lethargic-looking lunch. Appearances were deceptive: all my vegetarian dishes were simple but flavoursome, with the garlicky mushrooms and spinach served with yoghurt particularly good. A well-priced way to fill up at lunch time (50 TL for 2 including drinks).

Sefa is at Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 17, Sultanahmet.

Apple tea

Fürreya Galata Balikcisi

Under the gaze of the Galata Tower in gritty but trendy Beyoglu, Fürreya Galata Balikcisi is a pocket-sized dream- providing you like fish, that is. The petite restaurant is modern and welcoming, with a short, well-priced menu of fresh fish and salads. We opted for the fish wraps (9TL) and a Mediterranean salad (9TL); both were light and tasty. The fish was flaky and perfectly-cooked, encased in flatbread and was well-complemented by some caramelised onions.

Fürreya Galata Balikcisi is at Serdar-i Ekram Sokak 2, Beyoglu.

View from Beyoglu

Krependeki Imroz

Apparently an evening in one of the meyhanes (meze restaurants) on Nevizade Sokak is a quintessential Istanbul experience. Squeezing through the hubbub of this Beyoglu backstreet early on a Sunday evening, I could see that these establishments aren't short on atmosphere: almost all were packed. We grabbed a table at Krependeki Imroz and were soon greeted by a grinning waiter brandishing a tray of bite-sized portions, covered in clingfilm. Our confusion gave way to comprehension: we were supposed to choose from this 3D menu. Unfortunately, most of the items on the tray weren't sufficiently discernible, so we asked for a print menu instead. We opted for 6 fish and vegetarian meze between 2: the calamari, vine leaves and borek were all hits, the fava bean mush less so. It may have been traditional, but its texture wasn't exactly appealing to our uninitiated palates. Portions were quite generous, making it a good value dinner.

Fava beans: no, ta

Krependeki Imroz is at Nevizade Sokak 16, Beyoglu.

Street food

If you're eating on the run or trying to save your lira, street food is where its at. Almost every corner has some sort of edible offering; kebab stalls huddle around any kind of transport hub and carts selling corn on the cob and Turkish pretzels speckle the streets. It was well worth parting with a couple of lira for some corn, which I elegantly devoured while waiting for a tram; one lira for a sesame-covered pretzel-meets-bread roll was also money well spent. Hungover and hungry in Uskudar on the Asian side of the city, a kebab stall saw us right: A's doner kebab was better than a greasy English offering, and my rice with chickpeas was just the carb hit I needed. We didn't get the chance to test out any of the grilled fish on offer by the water's edge, but it certainly smelled good. A makeshift barbecue in a backstreet may not sound like the best place to sample the catch of the day, but judging by the number of locals tucking in, it might well be.

You can read more about my Istanbul experiences here on my travel blog Tales of a Brit Abroad.

Recipe: Borek

2012-02-24T19:35:00.002+00:00

I mentioned in my review of Bodrum that their borek weren't as good as the tasty pastries created by my friend Sarah McMillan. Luckily for you, she's happy to share the recipe. Believe me, if they turn out like hers you won't be disappointed...

Sarah's a marketing manager from 9-5, and a make-up artist and keen cook outside of working hours. She recently started the food blog Food=Love, where she regularly shares her easy-to-emulate recipes.

Borek

I've visited Turkey a number of times and I love Turkish food: it's just so fresh and tasty.

One of my favourite appetizers has to be Sigara Boregi or Borek, which are cigar-shaped filo pastries filled with feta cheese.

To make borek, you need:

3 sheets filo pastry

Filling:
1 block of feta cheese, crumbled
small bunch parsley, finely chopped
Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
Pinch of oregano (optional)

1/2 saucepan of sunflower oil for frying
1 small bowl of water

How to make borek:

Mix all of the filling ingredients in a bowl.

Place the three sheets of filo on top of each other vertically and cut in half from top to bottom. Then cut from one of the top corners to a bottom corner diagonally across to make 12 triangles of filo pastry. Cover the pastry with a damp tea towel until ready to use or else it will dry up and become difficult to roll.
Put one heaped teaspoonful of filling along the long side edge of each triangle of pastry. Then fold the two end corners in and roll up the triangle. Wet the open end with a little water from your bowl and press it closed. Be careful not to overfill or they will explode when frying!
Repeat until you've rolled all the sheets into cigar shapes.

Heat up the sunflower oil on the hob in a pan on a high heat. A good way to check if the oil is hot enough is to put a small piece of filo into the oil. If it starts to sizzle, then it's ready.
Turn the heat down to medium. Fry about 3 borek at a time (depending on the size of your pan) and fry the borek until they are a light golden colour. When they are done, use a slotted metal spoon to remove them and place them on a paper towel to soak up any extra oil.

Serve warm with houmous and salad as a light snack or alone as an appetizer.

Photo: Flickr/brododaktula

Trichy Dosa

2012-02-19T21:12:00.002+00:00

UPDATE: As of July 2012, Trichy Dosa is now Sherpa Nepalese.

Poppadoms, curry, rice, naan bread: standard Indian fare. Dosa and idly? If you live in the UK, probably not so much. Since the opening of Trichy Dosa in late 2011, these staples of South Indian food can now be found on the Cowley Road, so there's no excuse to limit your repertoire.

I first encountered a dosa in Malaysia. The large, thin savoury pancake didn't say 'Indian food' to me so much as it said 'smear me with nutella and devour me like Lent starts tomorrow'. (Well, to be honest, it didn't say anything - it was a pancake). Devour it I did though, dipped in the sauces it came with. And it was love at first bite: for the rest of my stay, a dosa a day was an essential requirement. Served solo or filled with vegetables, cheese or meat, these pancakes made of rice batter and black lentils are simple yet delicious if done well. Needless to say, I was pretty excited at the prospect of a visit to Trichy Dosa.

The restaurant itself is unremarkable; a plain Jane making no mark on the design scale. The leather-backed chairs are decent, but the lack of tablecloths cheapened their look somewhat. The neutral effect inspired by the bland decor was cancelled out by another type of decoration, though: decorations of the Christmas variety. Yes, at the beginning of February, tinsel still adorned Trichy Dosa's walls. Epiphany rules may not apply here, but for me it suggested a lack of care and lent an oddly unseasonal air.

The waiter's warm greeting appeased me a little, but once we got stuck into the menu we were lost. Rather than ordering a thali plate of mini-portions of different dishes (from £8), our group of 3 wanted to test out a range of dosa and idly (steamed 'savoury cakes', according to Wikipedia). Given the low prices of the dosa (from £3 for a plain pancake to £5 for a chef's special), we weren't sure whether they were meant to be ordered alone or as accompaniments. Most didn't seem to have fillings, so we assumed the latter. In addition to thali and dosa, there were also vegetarian and meat curries, idly, rice and breads on offer, as well as a range of starters. As South Indian food isn't common to the UK, an overview and some ordering guidelines on the menu would probably help: we overheard other groups musing similar thoughts. With some help from our waiter, we opted for 3 different dosas (onion, paneer and lamb), 2 curries (chef's special vegetable and chicken chettinadu) and some idly (jasmine, out of curiosity). Fortunately the wine list proved more familiar territory: a bottle of decent house white set us back just £10.95.

After a reasonable wait, our dishes arrived. For a moment I thought I'd stepped back in time and found myself in my school dining hall circa 2000. Served on huge white plastic trays reminiscent of school dinner trays, the presentation of the dosa isn't going to win any prizes. Although inelegant and cumbersome, the trays are fairly practical, with different compartments for dipping sauces. Eating did provide some logistical problems though - did we eat our curry with the dosa? Did we decant it from the dish onto the tray? When it comes to South Indian food, we were all clearly novices. So we did what any novice should do and got stuck in.

The paneer dosa (£3.50, unfortunately not photographed) most closely resembled the lightly crispy slices of heaven I'd polished off in Kuala Lumpur. Filled with Indian cheese, it was light and tasty. The other two dosa were made from coarser semolina batter, and were much 'flatter' and heavier. Our unanimous preference was for the paneer dosa: the onion and lamb dropped out of their respective dosa too easily, making eating them a bit of a messy experience (although our technique was no doubt partly responsible). N pointed out that it wasn't exactly 'date food'. The chicken curry (£6) was well-received by N and S; its creamy sauce well-spiced. I was less enamoured of my vegetarian option (£6), which was more sauce than vegetable content, although the addition of some paneer did help to win me round. The portions were also a little on the small side. Despite this, we still struggled to finish: the dosa were huge, and the idly (4 for £4.50) were also sizeable. These puffy, glutinous cakes are difficult to describe but I'd recommend trying them: the texture was a delight, even if the jasmine flavour wasn't really discernible.

Like our selection of dishes, my thoughts on Trichy Dosa are mixed. I think our experience would have been enhanced by knowing what to order: if any of your friends know their South Indian food, it might be as well to consult them before visiting. Although for the purposes of a review I wanted to sample a variety of dishes, I can't help but wonder whether a thali plate would have been a safer bet for a first visit. Our food was cheap and filling, but it failed to rekindle my daily desire for dosa. Which, wallet and waistline considered, is probably a good thing. I think it's great that Oxford has a South Indian restaurant though (Dosa Park on Park End Street falls into the fast food category). For this reason, Trichy Dosa's a welcome addition to Oxford's dining scene, and if you've never tried South Indian food, I'd recommend a visit. Just be sure to seek some ordering advice.

Verdict: 6

Trichy Dosa is at 209 Cowley Road, OX4 1XF. Tel: 01865 241493. Take away also available (delivery or collection)

Brasserie Blanc

2012-02-10T08:46:00.003+00:00

When someone says Raymond Blanc and Oxford in the same sentence, your first thought is probably Le Manoir Aux Quat'Saisons. But let's face it, most of our budgets don't stretch to the two Michelin starred delights on offer at his swanky countryside restaurant. Fortunately for those of more modest means, Jericho's Brasserie Blanc offers a chance to sample the top French chef's cooking without needing prior consent from your bank manager.

'If the Manoir is a delicate waltz then the Brasseries are a Can Can,' says the man himself of his nine restaurants located across the south of England. I can only hope that nobody reading Mr Blanc's description visits any of his outposts hoping for frilly-skirted girls and raucous Moulin Rouge-style debauchery. They'll probably be mightily disappointed to discover a civilized yet buzzing modern restaurant that's far more classy than brassy. As you might expect, it's not the cheapest place to eat in Oxford, but thanks to its excellently-priced set menu, it's a realistic dining option for everyone.

Arriving at 7.30 on Friday evening, our party of 3 were welcomed and seated quickly. The restaurant was almost full, but the staff were efficient and polite throughout. We were offered both the à la carte and 'dine with wine' set menus: I was impressed that the latter was still on offer at such a busy time. Although the price increases from £11.50 for 2 courses or £13.95 for 3 to £14 for 2 and £16.45 for 3 after 7pm, the prix fixe menu offers an excellent opportunity to try more than one course without busting your budget. The options aren't too shabby either; no limp offerings that push you towards the main menu here. There's a meat, fish and vegetarian option for both the starter and main, plus a choice of three desserts. My mum (not the easiest lady to impress) shunned the à la carte choices in favour of onion soup followed by smoked haddock risotto from the set menu, while my grandma and I branched out in favour of a confit chicken terrine and a cheese soufflé respectively, with beef stroganoff and a special of pan-fried haddock for our main courses.

We were served some warm fresh bread (served with both butter and an olive oil/balsamic vinegar combo) to nibble while we waited for our starters. All were well-presented and well-received, my only criticism was that my cheese soufflé was perhaps on the small side given its £7.60 price tag. The flavour of the smoked Lyburn cheese was spot on though, and the consistency of the souffle was perfectly airy. I was less keen on the accompanying celery, but the tiny chunks of apple and lettuce were a decent complement. The other two generations of Turner/Ramsbottom (yep, you read that right) women were similarly impressed with their starters, and I was pleased to note that the set menu portion was no smaller than the à la carte starters.

Things only improved when the main courses appeared. My grandma's beef stroganoff (£12.20) was suitably close to the best one she ever ate (sometime in the seventies) and has been trying to match ever since, although the generous portion ultimately defeated her. I had no such trouble polishing off my special of pan-fried North Atlantic haddock served atop creamy mash potato (£14.50). It had a gorgeous pesto crust on top of a sliver of delicately crisp skin - I normally shudder at the thought of fish skin, but this was worth savouring rather than shunning. My mum's smoked haddock risotto was served with a poached egg perched atop the creamy rice, and again the portion size was equal to the à la carte options. I'm not normally a fan of smoked fish, but the taste was delicate and pretty close to divine: I'm not ashamed to admit I devoured her leftovers. At the risk of sounding excessively greedy, I ordered a dessert (in the name of research, of course): 4 scoops of sorbet, 2 raspberry and 2 lemon, presented between flaky palmier biscuits. Not just any old sorbet then - the Raymond Blanc touch was still decidedly present.

There may not have been a can can but there was definitely plenty of flair on show at Brasserie Blanc. The food was almost faultless, and the service great. The only drawback is the price - unless you order from the excellent set menu, dining here is a touch more expensive than most other Oxford restaurants, especially when the cost of wine is factored in. However, given the cost and availability of the 'dine with wine' menu (to which a glass of wine can be added from £1.95) and the quality of the cuisine, I can't complain. If you're celebrating something or just looking for a smart spot to dine, you can't go wrong with Brasserie Blanc. Just don't expect any dancing.

Verdict. 9.5

Brasserie Blanc is at 71-72 Walton Street, OX2 6AG. Reservations recommended at weekends. Tel: 01865 510999.

I'll be talking about budget dining in Oxfordshire on Jo Thoenes's afternoon show on BBC Radio Oxford today (10 February) from just after 1pm. I'll be covering more restaurants that offer great value set menus. You can listen live or for up to one week afterwards here. If you have any suggestions, please do contact the show here.