Gleeful Things

Hot Cocoa Leg Warmers Free Crochet Pattern

Julie — Mon, 15 Dec 2025 22:22:20 +0000

Table of Contents

The Hot Cocoa Leg Warmers are an excellent layering piece to have in your wardrobe. They’re the perfect winter accessory that will keep you warm while also elevating any outfit! Style them over leggings or tights for a cozy, layered look when it’s chilly, or even wear them with shorts or a dress when it’s warmer and you just want to accessorize.

This pattern gives you the option to make any size and to use any yarn, so you’ll get a custom fit, and you can decide how warm (or not!) you want them to be. #2 Sport weight is a great option if you want a lighter weight leg warmer, or try a #4 worsted weight yarn if you want a quick project. Whatever yarn you choose, you’ll love making these leg warmers that feature a simple, textured pattern that’s easy to memorize, and cute i-cord ties that hold them up!

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Why You’ll Love These Cozy Leg Warmers

Use your favorite yarn – This pattern allows you to use just about any yarn you’d like, so grab your favorite or whatever you have in your stash and whip some up today!
Custom sizing – Rather than giving specific sizes, this pattern will show you how to make your own custom size that will fit you perfectly!
Minimal attention required – You’ll memorize the pattern repeat quickly, which makes it perfect to work on while you binge watch your favorite show!
So many ways to style them! – Layer them over leggings or wear them with dress. Get cozy with your slippers or tuck them into your boots. They’re a versatile accessory that you’ll love styling!

Yarn

You can use just about any yarn you’d like for this pattern, however, a #2 sport weight – #4 worsted weight will probably work best. Yardage will vary depending on your yarn and the size you make.

Examples use #4 worsted weight yarn. Approximately 750 yards of Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Cocoa for over the knee example. Approximately 480 yards of Bernat Bundle Up in Dove for below the knee example.

Download The Pattern

You can find the FREE pattern by scrolling down. A print-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern is also available for a small fee. If you enjoy my patterns, please consider purchasing the PDF – your support is greatly appreciated and will help me keep the new patterns coming! :)

Click here to get the PDF on ETSY

Click here to get the PDF on RAVELRY

Supplies

Crochet hook in a size that suits your chosen yarn. I used a US Size I/9 (5.5mm) crochet hook for my example.
Yarn needle
Scissors
Optional: double pointed knitting needles in a size that suits your chosen yarn (if you prefer to knit your i-cord rather than crochet).
Optional: i-cord tool (if you prefer not to knit or crochet an i-cord, this is another option).

Difficulty

Intermediate

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for this project as long as you like the look of your work. I recommend a gauge that is a little bit loose, not too tight. You want your leg warmers to relax and have some slouchiness to them.

The gauge for my example is: 8 dc & 4 rows = 2 inches

Sizes

This pattern will show you how to make any size leg warmer, custom fit to you.

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s)
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
FPdc – front post double crochet
ps – puff stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

Special Stitches & Techniques

Puff st (ps) – [yo & insert hook into ch space, yo & draw up a loop] 3 times in space ch space, yo & draw through all loops on hook.

You can use any method you prefer to make the i-cord ties. Here are some video tutorials to help you learn: How to crochet an i-cord, How to knit an i-cord

Terms of Use

You are welcome to sell any items you make using this pattern, in small quantities. Mass production is prohibited. When selling online, please credit Julie King / Gleeful Things by linking to www.gleefulthings.com or tagging @gleefulthings. You may NOT sell or distribute the pattern itself in any form, alter it to claim it as your own, post it online, or create a video demonstrating the pattern.

Notes

This pattern allows you to make any size leg warmer so it will be custom fit to you. You must ensure that your starting chain is a multiple of 10 in order for this pattern to work.
No stitch counts are given at the end of rounds as they will vary for everyone depending on what number you chain in the beginning.
Each leg warmer is worked in joined rounds, starting at the top.
There are two different options for finishing the bottom edge. You can choose from a simple, single crochet edge or a ribbed cuff.
An i-cord is used to tie up the top of the leg warmer. You can either knit or crochet it.
Ch 4 at beginning of rounds always counts as 1 FPdc + ch 1, with the exception of round 2, where it counts as 1 tr. Ch 3 at beginning of rounds will count as 1 dc.

Instructions

Start by making a chain that wraps around your leg, making sure that whatever number of chs you have is a multiple of 10. It’s better to make your chain a little too short than too long as it will have some stretch.

Round 1: Sl st to join to 1^st ch, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc now and throughout), 1 dc in each ch around, sl st to join to top of 3^rd ch.

Round 2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in each st around, sl st to join to top of ch 4.

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as 1 FPdc + 1 ch now and throughout), 1 FPdc in same st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 3, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, *[1 FPdc, ch 1, 1 FPdc] in next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 3, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 3rd ch.

Round 4: Sl st into next ch space, ch 1 (does not count as a st), ps in same ch space, ch 1, skip ch 2 space, [1 dc, ch 1] 6 times in next ch 3 space, skip ch 2 space, *ps in next ch 1 space, ch 1, skip ch 2 space, [1 dc, ch 1] 6 times in next ch 3 space, skip ch 2 space; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 1^st ps.

Round 5: Ch 4, 1 FPdc around ps, ch 2, skip [ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc], 1 sc in next ch 1 space, ch 3, skip [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc], 1 sc in next ch 1 space, ch 2, skip [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1], *[1 FPdc, ch 1, 1 FPdc] around next ps, ch 2, skip [ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc], 1 sc in next ch 1 space, ch 3, skip [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc], 1 sc in next ch 1 space, ch 2, skip [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1]; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 3rd ch.

Repeat rounds 4 & 5 until you reach your desired length.

When you’re ready to finish it, there are two different options for the bottom of your leg warmers.

Simple Edge

Edge Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in same FPdc, 1 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next FPdc, 1 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch space, *1 sc in same FPdc, 1 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next FPdc, 1 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch space; repeat from * around, invisible join to 1^st sc and fasten off.

Ribbed Cuff

Cuff Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), *skip FPdc, 1 sc in next ch space, skip FPdc, 1 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch space, skip next sc, 1 sc in next ch space; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 1^st sc.

Cuff Round 2: Ch 3,1 dc in each st around,sl st to join to top of ch 3.

Cuff Round 3: Ch 3, 1 FPdc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 1 FPdc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to top of ch 3.

Cuff Round 4: Ch 3, 1 FPdc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 1 FPdc in next st; repeat from * around, invisible join to top of ch 3 and fasten off.

Finishing

Tie: Using your preferred method, knit or crochet an i-cord to your desired length. You can make it long to wrap around your leg like my example, or just keep it short and tie a little bow.

After fastening off your i-cord, weave it through round 2 by going over one tr and under the next, all the way around, as shown below.

Progress Photos

Round 1:

Round 2:

Round 3:

Round 4:

Round 5:

Round 6:

Cuff Round 1:

Cuff Round 2:

Cuff Round 4:

Share Your Project

I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and I would love to see what you made! Please share your photos on social media and tag me @gleefulthings or use hashtag #gleefulthings. Don’t forget to add your project on Ravelry too! :)

The post Hot Cocoa Leg Warmers Free Crochet Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Jumbo Bearies Free Crochet Pattern

Julie — Wed, 19 Nov 2025 21:43:55 +0000

These Jumbo Bearies are the perfect project for a crocheter who wants to take their amigurumi to the next level! Chenille yarn makes it easy to work up this large scale project fairly quickly! Bearies make a great gift, especially when paired with their story:

In a quiet corner of a cozy garden, nestled between strawberry patches and raspberry bushes, live a whimsical bunch of pink crochet bears known as Bearies. With soft yarn for fur and a sweet berry scent, these little berry bears are stitched together with handmade love. Their gentle eyes twinkle with glee, and tiny green leaves sprout from the top of their heads like a crown. These curious creatures spend their days napping in sunbeams and collecting wildflowers. Half fruit, half friend, and entirely magical – it is said to be good luck to find one hiding in a basket of freshly picked berries!

Table of Contents

Yarn

#6 super bulky weight yarn: Approximately 210 yards of Bernat Baby Blanket Sparkle in Hot Pink (A), 20 yards of Bernat Baby Blanket in Misty Jungle Green (B), and 2 yards of Bernat Blanket in Coal (C).

Yarn Substitute Ideas

This pattern is intended for chenille yarns such as Bernat Blanket, Premier Basix Chenille, Big Twist Plush, Loops & Threads Demi Purl, Premier Parfait Chunky, etc.

Download The Pattern

Click here to get the PDF on ETSY

Click here to get the PDF on RAVELRY

Supplies

7mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

yarn needle

scissors

(2) 45mm safety eyes

stuffing (approximately 16 ounces)

stitch marker

Difficulty

Easy

Gauge

Approximately 5 sc & 5 rows = 2 inches.

Gauge is not critical for this project but you may want a different size of safety eyes if your gauge is significantly different than mine.

Finished Measurements

Approximately 11 inches wide & 16 inches tall including the stem.

Additional Sizes

If you like the Jumbo Bearies, don’t miss the original Bearies (mini) and Big Bearies!

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (decrease)

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

Terms of Use

Notes

Pattern is worked in continuous rounds (with the exception of the ears). Do not join at the end of rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark your rounds.

Ears are made in rows with turning at the beginning of each row.

Sc2tog will count as 1 sc in final stitch count at end of rounds.

Instructions

Head

Round 1: With A, make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 8 sc in ring – 8 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 16 sc.

Round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 24 sc.

Round 4: *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 32 sc.

Round 5: *1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 40 sc.

Round 6: *1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 48 sc.

Round 7: *1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 56 sc.

Round 8: *1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 64 sc.

Round 9: *1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 72 sc.

Round 10: *1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 80 sc.

Rounds 11 – 22 (12 rounds): 1 sc in each st around – 80 sc.

Round 23: *1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 72 sc.

Round 24: *1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 64 sc.

Round 25: *1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 56 sc.

Round 26: *1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 48 sc.

Round 27: *1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 40 sc.

Round 28: *1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 32 sc.

Round 29: *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 24 sc.

Round 30: *1 sc in next st, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 16 sc.

Place safety eyes between rounds 19 & 20 with 15 sts between them. Stuff and fasten off. No need to close the hole completely. It will be covered by the top piece.

Nose

Round 1: With A, make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 8 sc in ring – 8 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 16 sc.

Round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 24 sc.

Round 4: *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around, invisible join to 1^st st of round and fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew the nose to the head – 32 sc.

Top

Round 1: With B, make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 9 sc in ring – 9 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 18 sc.

Round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 27 sc.

Round 4: *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 36 sc.

Round 5: *1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, ch 5, 1 hdc in 3^rd ch from hook (previous 2 chs count as a ch 2 space), 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts; repeat from * around – 36 sc + 6 points (3 hdc & 1 ch 2 space each).

Round 6: *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip 1 st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, [2 hdc, ch 2, sl st to 1^st ch, 2 hdc] in ch 2 space at end of point, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts; repeat from * around, invisible join to 1^st ch of this round and fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew the top to the head – 24 sc + 6 points (10 hdc & 2 ch & 1 sl st each).

Stem

Round 1: With B, make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 6 sc in ring – 6 sc.

Rounds 2 – 13 (12 rounds): 1 sc in each st around – 6 sc.

After round 13, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew the stem to the top piece.

Ears (make 2)

Row 1: With A, make a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), 6 hdc in ring – 7 hdc.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc) & turn, 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in each st across – 14 dc.

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc) & turn, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st; repeat from * across, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew the ears to the – 21 dc.

Finishing/Assembly

Nose

Using C and your yarn needle, stitch a triangle shaped nose.

I like to start the bottom of the nose in the center of the magic ring. Start by stitching 3 lines to create the outline of the triangle and then make as many stitches as you need to fill in the inside of the triangle.

Using the yarn (A) left at the end of round 4 and your yarn needle, stitch the nose to the head so that the top of it is just a bit higher than the eyes as shown here. Add a small amount of stuffing to give it some shape.

Stem & Top

Using B and your yarn needle, stitch the stem to the center of the top. Fasten off.

Using the yarn (B) left at the end of the top and your yarn needle, stitch the top to the head so that there is a point just above each eye. See photo for reference if needed. Stitch securely all the way around the edges of the top. Add a small amount of stuffing under the top if you want it to stand up a bit. Fasten off.

Ears

Close the magic ring as usual but try to push all stitches to one side so that it forms a half circle. Using A and your yarn needle, attach each ear between the two points on the side of the head by stitching along the flat part of the half circle. Fasten off.

Share Your Bearies!

The post Jumbo Bearies Free Crochet Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Big Bearies Free Crochet Pattern

Julie — Wed, 01 Oct 2025 22:56:15 +0000

Big Bearies are the perfect project for a crocheter who is new to working with chenille yarn and wants to try amigurumi but also a very fun make for a more experienced crocheter looking for something quick and easy. They make a great gift, especially when paired with their story:

Table of Contents

Yarn

#6 super bulky weight yarn: Bernat Blanket, approximately 30 yards of Deep Fuchsia (A), 10 yards of Deep Sea (B), and 1 yard of Coal (C).

Yarn Substitute Ideas

This pattern is intended for chenille yarns such as Bernat Blanket, Premier Basix Chenille, Big Twist Plush, Loops & Threads Demi Purl, Premier Parfait Chunky, etc.

Download The Pattern

Click here to get the PDF on ETSY

Click here to get the PDF on RAVELRY

Supplies

US Size J/10 (6mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

yarn needle

scissors

(2) 15mm safety eyes

stuffing

stitch marker

Difficulty

Easy

Gauge

Approximately 3 sc & 3 rows = 1 inch.

Gauge is not critical for this project but you may want a different size of safety eyes if your gauge is significantly different than mine.

Finished Measurements

Approximately 4 inches wide & 6 inches tall including the stem.

Additional Sizes

If you like the Big Bearies, don’t miss the original Bearies (mini) and Jumbo Bearies!

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (decrease)

dc – double crochet

Terms of Use

Notes

Pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark your rounds.

Sc2tog will count as 1 sc in final stitch count at end of rounds.

Instructions

Head

Round 1: With A, make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 8 sc in ring – 8 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 16 sc.

Round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 24 sc.

Round 4: *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around – 32 sc.

Rounds 5 – 10 (6 rounds): 1 sc in each st around – 32 sc.

Round 11: *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 24 sc.

Round 12: *1 sc in next st, sc2tog; repeat from * around – 16 sc.

Place safety eyes between rounds 8 & 9 with 6 sts between them. Stuff now or after the following round if you prefer.

Round 13: Sc2tog 8 times, fasten off – 8 sc.

No need to close the hole completely. It will be covered by the top piece.

Nose

Round 1: With A, make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 6 sc in ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around, invisible join to 1^st st of round and fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew the nose to the head – 12 sc.

Top

Round 1: With B, make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 6 sc in ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 sc.

Round 3: *ch 4, 1 sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 2 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts of round 2; repeat from * around until you have 6 points completed, invisible join to 1^st ch of this round and fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew the top to the head – 12 sc + 6 points (1 sl st & 2 sc each).

Stem

With B, ch 6, 1 sl st in 2^nd ch from hook and in each of the next 4 chs, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew to the top – 5 sl st.

Ears (make 2)

Row 1: With A, make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), [1 sc, 6 dc, 1 sc] in ring, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew the ears to the head – 2 sc + 6 dc.

Assembly

Nose

Using C and your yarn needle, stitch a triangle shaped nose.

Using the yarn (A) left at the end of round 2 and your yarn needle, stitch the nose to the head so that the top of it is just a bit higher than the eyes as shown here.

Stem & Top

Using B and your yarn needle, stitch the stem to the center of the top. Fasten off.

Ears

Share Your Bearies!

The post Big Bearies Free Crochet Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Sunrise Mini Barefoot Sandals Free Crochet Pattern

Julie — Thu, 06 Mar 2025 00:04:09 +0000

Table of Contents

The Sunrise Mini Barefoot sandals are a must have summer accessory! Featuring a golden sun in the center making them perfect for those sunny beach days! They are a truly unique item that you don’t see everyday.

I originally designed this as a jewelry piece to wear on your hand. You could add some beads to the straps to give it more of a bracelet vibe. Or make a pair to wear with some flip flops for a cute everyday accessory. And of course, they’re perfect for a barefoot day at the beach or pool!

You’ll love how cheap this project can be using embroidery floss. You could also use your favorite #1 fingering weight yarn. I personally love using cotton for this for it’s sturdiness, but any fiber should work.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Instant Gratification – This is a super quick project that you can easily whip up in under an hour!

Versatile – Make a pair and wear them on your feet or you could even wear it on your hand like a piece of jewelry. Works either way!

Unique gift – Barefoot sandals are such a fun, uncommon accessory that anyone would be pleasantly surprised to receive!

Yarn

DMC Mouline Special 25: Approximately 1 skein each of (A) & (B), and 2 skeins of (C)
OR:

#1 fingering weight yarn: Approximately 9 yards each of (A) & (B), and 18 yards of (C)

Examples use DMC Mouline Special 25 in the following colors:

#725 yellow (A), #402 peach (B), #920 burnt orange (C)
#726 yellow (A), #564 light blue (B), #943 teal (C)

Download The Pattern

Click here to get the PDF on ETSY

Click here to get the PDF on RAVELRY

Supplies

US Size C/2 (2.75mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

yarn needle

scissors

fabric glue (optional but recommended)

beads (optional)

Difficulty

Intermediate

Gauge

24 sc & 24 rows = 4 inches

Finished Measurements

2 inches wide/tall. Straps can be made any length.

How to Adjust Size

If you’d like your sandal to be larger, simply use a thicker yarn along with the appropriate hook size for that yarn.

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s)

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

Terms of Use

Notes

Gauge is not important, however, if your gauge is different than mine, your sandal will be larger or smaller than mine.

This pattern is worked in joined rounds. Join at the end of each round as the pattern says.

Instructions

Round 1: With A, make a magic ring,ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), 17 hdc in ring, sl st to join to top of ch 2 – 18 hdc.

Round 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc + 2 ch), *skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st, ch 2; repeat from * around, invisible join to 3^rd ch & fasten off A – 9 dc + 9 ch 2 spaces.

Round 3: With B,*3 sc in next ch space, ch 1, [2 hdc, 1 dc] in next ch space, ch 3, [1 dc, 2 hdc] in next ch space, ch 1; repeat from * twice, invisible join to 1^st sc & fasten off B – 9 sc + 12 hdc + 6 dc + 3 ch 3 spaces + 6 ch 1 spaces.

Round 4: With C, ch to 20 inches (or desired length for strap), join to sandal by making 2 sc in any ch 3 space, *1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in next ch space; repeat from *once, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch space, ch 20, sl st into last sc, (see arrow in photo below) 2 sc in same ch space,

**1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in next ch space; repeat from **once, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch space, ch to 20 inches (or desired length for strap), cut yarn and fasten off C,

rejoin C by drawing up a loop in last sc, (see arrow in photo above) 2 sc in same ch space, ***1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in next ch space; repeat from ***once, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch space, invisible join to 1^st sc & fasten off C – 45 sc.

Finishing

Add beads or charms to the straps if desired and tie a knot to secure the end. To improve durability, I recommend putting a small dot of fabric glue everywhere that you started or fastened off a color on the back of the sandals.

Share Your Project

The post Sunrise Mini Barefoot Sandals Free Crochet Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Moonstone Slouchy Beanie Free Crochet Pattern

Julie — Tue, 23 Jan 2024 23:37:44 +0000

Table of Contents

We all have a favorite beanie pattern that we’ve made in at least five colors, right? Well, this is mine! I’m so happy to be able to share it with you because I know it will become a favorite for you too!

I designed this hat with my favorite ribbed edging, which is made with double crochets and front post double crochets. It goes really quickly and doesn’t require much thought, which is great when you’re multi-tasking.

The rest of the hat is made with just double crochets, so it’s a very beginner friendly project. Also awesome for when you want to multi-task!

I wanted to give this hat a little something extra special, so I added some sparkle! It’s a really simple technique. You just hold a sparkly thread (linked below) along with your yarn while you crochet. But it’s up to you if you want to use sparkle or not because it’s cute either way.

It’s a very comfortable, great looking hat that I promise, you will choose everytime you want to wear a beanie!

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Netflix & crochet? – Or road trip, or watch the game, etc.? This beanie requires little attention so you can stitch while not having to focus too hard.

So many yarn options! – This pattern makes it easy to use just about any #4 worsted weight yarn so grab your favorite and whip one up today!

Add sparkle to any yarn – Using my super simple technique, you’ll be able to use your favorite yarn and make it extra special with a little sparkle!

Goes with everything – Your new favorite beanie will look great dressed up with a cute outfit, or wear it for a cozy day at home while you relax & make it in another color! ;)

Yarn

#4 worsted weight yarn: approximately 180 (200, 220) yards of Malabrigo Washted in #875 Arapey

Yarn Substitute Ideas

Knit Picks Muse – Very similar to Malabrigo Washted, this superwash wool yarn also has a nice selection of hand painted colors.

Red Heart Soft or Lion Brand Basic Stitch – These budget-friendly acrylic yarns are always a great option for hats if you prefer solid colors.

Lion Brand Mandala Ombre – This acrylic yarn offers some bright colored options with an almost hand painted look while still being budget-friendly.

Caron Simply Soft Party – If you like the look of sparkle but don’t want to worry about holding the sparkly thread along with the yarn, check out this yarn with the sparkle already included.

Download The Pattern

Click here to get the PDF on ETSY

Click here to get the PDF on RAVELRY

Supplies

US Size I/9 (5.5mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

yarn needle

scissors

Sulky Holoshimmer thread in Silver Metallic (optional – see special techniques section below for more info.)

Difficulty

Easy

Gauge

16 dc and 7 rows = 4”

Sizes & Finished Measurements

Size	S	M	L
Length	8.5″	10″	11.5″
Around Edge	17″	19″	21″

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet

FPdc – front post double crochet

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

Special Techniques

The example hat pictured is made using a strand of Sulky Holoshimmer thread in Silver Metallic held together with the yarn throughout the entire project. This is optional, if you want to add sparkle. You can find this thread in a variety of colors to match your yarn.

Terms of Use

Notes

Edging of hat is worked flat in rows and then stitched together to form a ring. Body of hat is then worked in joined rounds into the side of the edging.

In edging, ch 2 in beginning of rows will count as 1 dc or 1 FPdc.

In body of hat, ch 3 in beginning of rounds always counts as 1 dc.

Pattern is written for size S with adjustments for sizes M – L in parentheses like this: S (M, L).

Instructions

Ribbed Edging

Row 1: Ch 12 (13, 14), (1st 3 ch count as 1 dc) 1 dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across – 10 (11, 12) dc.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 FPdc) & turn, 1 FPdc in each st across – 10 (11, 12) FPdc.

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc) & turn, 1 dc in each st across – 10 (11, 12) dc.

Row 4 – 35 (39, 43): Repeat rows 2-3.

Row 36 (40, 44): Repeat row 2.

Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Using yarn needle and the tail, stitch final row to beginning chain to form a ring and fasten off.

Body of hat

Begin in last st of row 36 (40, 44).

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc now & throughout), 3 dc in same st, *skip 1 st, 4 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to top of ch 3 – 18 (20, 22) sets of 4 dc.

Round 2 – 9 (11, 13): Ch 3, 3 dc in same st, *skip 3 dc, 4 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to top of ch 3 – 18 (20, 22) sets of 4 dc.

Round 10 (12, 14): Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, *skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to top of ch 3 – 18 (20, 22) sets of 3 dc.

Round 11 (13, 15): Ch 3, 1 dc in same st, *skip 2 dc, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to top of ch 3 – 18 (20, 22) sets of 2 dc.

Round 12 (14, 16): Ch 3, *skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to top of ch 3 – 18 (20, 22) dc.

Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Using yarn needle and the tail, stitch around round 12 (14, 16). Pull tight to cinch shut and fasten off.

Share Your Project

The post Moonstone Slouchy Beanie Free Crochet Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Plush Hug Hand Bag Free Crochet Pattern

Julie — Tue, 19 Dec 2023 01:29:55 +0000

Table of Contents

There is something about a chunky, crochet bag that just feels so appropriate for cold weather! Like, a bag is not an accessory that is meant to keep you warm, yet something about carrying it just feels so cozy anyway!

You’re going to love this squishy handbag! Not only is it quick and enjoyable to make, it’s so soft that you’re going to love toting it around too!

This is the first pattern I’m releasing that uses blanket yarn and I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to get around to using it! If you haven’t tried it yet, I hope you will! I mean, what’s not to love? A plush yarn that is also so plump that your projects work up really quickly? Yes, please!

I see a lot of blankets (obviously!) and amigurumi made using this yarn, so I wanted to create something a little different. This bag is a great option if you’re like me, itching to try blanket yarn for the first time but lacking the attention span to finish a blanket!

It requires less than 1 skein of Bernat Blanket yarn and looks just as nice in solid colors as it does with stripes! If you want to use multiple colors while remaining budget-friendly, definitely try Bernat Blanket Ombré (shown here), which has several colors in one skein.

This pattern is super beginner-friendly, using mainly double crochets, and is just begging to be accessorized in your own, personal style. Tie a scarf onto the handle, add enamel pins or patches, etc.

Why You’ll Love This Little Handbag

Easy peasy – Whether you’re just learning to crochet or simply looking for an easy project, you’ll enjoy this pattern, which is made using all double crochets!

Scrap saver – You can change colors at any point during this pattern which makes it the perfect way to use up scraps of blanket yarn left over from your other projects.

Multiple uses – This bag is an ideal size to be used as a clutch for carrying your wallet, keys, and other small essentials, or fill it with yarn and use it as a project bag!

The joy! – Carrying this squishy bag always makes me happy and I hope it has the same effect on you! :)

Yarn

#6 super bulky weight yarn: Approximately 180 yards of Bernat Blanket Ombré in Dusty Rose Ombré

Yarn Substitute Ideas

Any Bernat Blanket yarn – Bernat Blanket comes in a lot of varieties and they should all be fine for this project. It would look nice in a solid color or, use up your scraps and make a multi-colored bag.

Loops & Threads Chenille Home Slim, Premier Basix Chenille, Big Twist Plush – These are all very similar to Bernat Blanket and should work just fine!

Your favorite #6 super bulky yarn – If you prefer not to use blanket yarn, you can experiment with your favorite yarns. It’s ok if you can’t meet the gauge with your chosen yarn as long as you don’t mind your bag being slightly different in size than mine.

Download The Pattern

Click here to get the PDF on ETSY

Click here to get the PDF on RAVELRY

Supplies

US Size J/10 (6mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn needle

Scissors

Sew on magnetic snap (optional)

6” Scrap of cardboard or thin plastic to strengthen bottom of bag (optional)

Difficulty

Easy

Gauge

9 dc & 4 rows = 3 inches

Gauge is not critical for this project but you do want to keep your stitches tight as it will keep the bag stiff, avoiding stretchiness and gaps between stitches.

Finished Measurements

8.5 inches tall, 15 inches wide. Bottom is 6 inches in diameter.

How to Adjust Size

You can easily make the bag taller by adding more rounds before you move onto making the handle (in round 16).

You could also make the bag smaller by using a smaller yarn & hook.

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

Terms Of Use

Notes

Pattern is worked in joined rounds, from the bottom up.

Ch 3 at beginning of rounds will always counts as 1 dc.

Pattern is written with no color changes as the yarn used for the sample has multiple colors in it. You can let them flow naturally from one color to the next or cut them and switch to the next color as you choose. I chose to change colors at the end of the following rounds: 4, 7, 9, 10, 11, & 13.

Instructions

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc now & throughout), 13 dc in ring, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 14 dc.

Round 2: Ch 3, 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 28 dc.

Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 42 dc.

Round 4: Ch 3, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 56 dc.

Rounds 5 – 6 (2 rounds): Ch 3: 1 dc in each st around, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 56 dc.

Round 7: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 70 dc.

Round 8: Ch 3: 1 dc in each st around, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 70 dc.

Round 9: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 84 dc.

Rounds 10 – 15 (6 rounds): Ch 3: 1 dc in each st around, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 84 dc.

Round 16: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts, ch 10, skip 10 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 32 sts, ch 10, skip 10 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts, sl st to join to 3^rd ch – 64 dc + 2 ch 10 spaces.

Round 17: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 10 chs, 1 dc in each of the next 32 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 10 chs, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts, invisible join to 3^rd ch and fasten off – 84 dc.

Finishing

Cut a 6” circle from a scrap of cardboard or thin plastic to place inside, at the bottom of the bag. It will help keep the bottom from stretching, which helps the bag hold shape better. You can hot glue it in place if you’d like.

Attach a magnetic snap closure below the opening for the handles, if desired.

How to Customize Your Bag

Try other yarns – Don’t feel limited to using blanket yarn for this bag. Experiment with your favorites, mix other types of yarn in similar sizes, whatever you feel excited about!

Add a scarf – Tie a small scarf or bandana onto the handle.

Add pins or patches – This bag looks super cute when decorated with enamel pins or sew on patches and they are the perfect way to add some of your personality to it!

Share Your Bag!

The post Plush Hug Hand Bag Free Crochet Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Velvet Mini Christmas Stockings Free Crochet Pattern

Julie — Sat, 11 Nov 2023 19:19:41 +0000

Do you ever find yourself wanting to crochet something for Christmas but don’t want to commit to a large project? I get it! The holidays are a busy time and it can be hard to find the time to do anything extra. Or, maybe you feel the urge to make something new but you already have plenty of Christmas decorations.

These Velvet Mini Stockings are the perfect project for you! Being so small, they’re quick to make. Not much commitment at all and you’ll promptly get that sense of satisfaction from finishing a project! And the best part is, these tiny stockings have a variety of uses so if you’re not wanting to add more decorations to your space, they also make nice gifts.

Personally, I love to use them as gifts for those people that you just want to get a little something for. Have you ever wanted to give someone a gift card but felt like you needed something to go with it? These stockings fit a gift card perfectly!!

And I think we all have people in our lives that we don’t really exchange gifts with (neighbors, coworkers, the mail carrier, etc.) but want to give something. You could simply fill these with candy and other small goodies to give out in those situations. It’s a small gift, but it’s handmade so it will feel extra special!

Why You’ll Love These Mini Stockings!

Quick & Easy – Made in just 12 rounds of basic double crochets with a very simple heel design! I’ve even included photos to help you through the heel part, if needed.

Scrap Saver – You’ll only need about 28 yards of yarn per stocking so this is a great way to use up left overs from other projects.

Cost Effective – One skein of Bernat Velvet is enough to make 11 of these mini stockings so if you need to make a bunch for gifts or to sell at a craft fair, it’s a good value!

Effortless Yarn Substitution – Velvet yarn is a great way to make your stockings feel a little fancy but you can really use just about any bulky yarn you prefer for this project.

Variety of Uses – Use them as gifts or use them as decorations, it’s up to you!

I really cannot get enough of velvet yarn and I hope you agree! It’s such an effortless way to make any basic crochet project seem fancier, which is especially awesome for holiday decor or gifts. And how amazing is it that you can get 11 of these mini stockings out of one skein of Bernat Velvet?! If you sell at craft fairs, that will give you a really low cost per item!

Yarn

#5 bulky weight yarn: Approximately 28 yards of Bernat Velvet in Burgundy Plum for a single color mini stocking. Or, approximately 14 yards each of Bernat Velvet in Sandy Cream (A) and Mocha (B) for a two-color mini stocking.

Yarn Substitute Ideas

Bernat Crushed Velvet – If you prefer a slightly tonal yarn that isn’t a solid color, this is perfect!

Premier Retro Velvet, Yarn Bee Velvety Smooth, Paintbox Yarns Chenille – These are all very similar to Bernat Velvet, just with different colors available.

Tips For Working With Velvet Yarn

Velvet yarn is so unique, I feel like there’s a little bit of a learning curve with it. Before you start this project, be sure to check out these tips I shared on how to make working with it a little easier.

Download The Pattern

Click here to get the PDF on ETSY

Click here to get the PDF on RAVELRY

Supplies

US Size J/10 (6mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

yarn needle

scissors

Difficulty

Easy

While these stockings may look fancy because they use velvet yarn, the are actually pretty simple. Do you know how to double crochet? If so, you can make these!

Gauge

6 dc and 3 rows = 2”

Gauge is not super critical for this project but if yours is different than mine, just know that your stocking will be a different size. Which is totally fine! :)

Finished Measurements

6.5 inches tall, 7 inches around

How to Adjust Size

The easiest way to adjust the size of your finished stocking is to use a larger or smaller yarn, along with a larger or smaller hook. If you use a small yarn & hook, your stocking will be even more mini than mine!

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet

st(s) – stitch(es)

yo – yarn over

dc3tog – double crochet 3 together (decrease)

Special Stitches

dc3tog – [yo & insert hook into next st, yo & draw up a loop, yo & draw through 2 loops] 3 times, yo & draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Terms Of Use

Notes

Stocking is worked from the toe up, in joined rounds with the exception of the heel, which is made in two easy rows. After the heel, you’ll continue working in joined rounds.

Ch 2 at beginning of rounds/rows always counts as 1 dc.

If you have any trouble with the heel, click here for a photo tutorial.

Single Color Mini Stocking Instructions

Round 1: Make a magic ring & ch 2 (counts as 1 dc now and throughout), 11 dc in ring, sl st to join to 2nd ch – 12 dc.

Round 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Round 3 – 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around,sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Heel Row 1: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sts – 9 dc.

Heel Row 2: Ch 2 & turn, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc3tog, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, invisible join to 2nd ch, use yarn needle to stitch heel closed and fasten off – 6 dc + 1 dc3tog.

Need help making the heel? Click here for a photo tutorial.

Round 6: Join yarn with ach 2 in same st as invisible join, work 4 dc evenly along the 2 heel rows, (now working in round 5) 1 dc in each of the next 9 sts, work 4 dc evenly along the 2 heel rows, sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Round 7 – 10: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around,sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Round 11: Ch 2 & turn, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sts, sl st to join to 2nd ch – 20 dc.

Round 12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, invisible join to 2nd ch – 20 dc.

Two Color Mini Stocking Instructions

Round 1: With A, make a magic ring & ch 2 (counts as 1 dc now and throughout), 11 dc in ring, sl st to join to 2nd ch – 12 dc.

Round 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st; repeat from * around, invisible join to 2nd ch and fasten off A – 18 dc.

Round 3: Join B with ach 2 in same st as invisible join, 1 dc in each st around,sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Round 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around,sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Round 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around,invisible join to 2nd ch and fasten off B – 18 dc.

Heel Row 1: Join A with ach 2 in same st as invisible join, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sts – 9 dc.

Heel Row 2: Ch 2 & turn, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc3tog, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, invisible join to 2nd ch, use yarn needle to stitch heel closed and fasten off A – 6 dc + 1 dc3tog.

Need help making the heel? Click here for a photo tutorial.

Round 6: Join B with ach 2 in same st as invisible join, work 4 dc evenly along the 2 heel rows, (now working in round 5) 1 dc in each of the next 9 sts, work 4 dc evenly along the 2 heel rows, sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Round 7 – 8: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around,sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Round 9: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, invisible join to 2nd ch and fasten off B – 18 dc.

Round 10: Join A with ach 2 in same st as invisible join, 1 dc in each st around,sl st to join to 2nd ch – 18 dc.

Round 11: Ch 2 & turn, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sts, sl st to join to 2nd ch – 20 dc.

Round 12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around,invisible join to 2nd ch and fasten off A – 20 dc.

Finishing

Fold the last two rounds down to create a cuff.

Loop for hanging:

Ch 16, sl st to join to 1^st ch to form a loop, cut yarn leaving a tail. Use your yarn needle and the tail you left to attach the loop to the inside of the top of the stocking.

Helpful Photos

How the heel is made:

The heel begins where you left off at the end of round 5. Instead of working in rounds, you’ll crochet two rows that go half way across the stocking. The first photo shows heel row 1 and the second photo shows heel row 2.

At the end of heel row 2, cut your yarn and use your yarn needle to invisible join to the beginning of that row.

Then, use that yarn to stitch up the little hole that is left along the top of heel row 2 as shown in the first photo. This forms the back of the heel. The second photo shows the back of the heel after being stitched up and then flipped right side out.

How to continue after the heel (round 6):

Join your yarn at the back of the heel with a ch 2. This is the same spot that you made your invisible join.

Then, you’ll work 4 dc along the edge of both heel rows as shown by the arrows.

Next, you’ll be working into the 9 sts from round 5 that you didn’t make the heel in. The arrows in the first photo show the first 4 of those sts. The second photo shows after making the rest of the stitches and arriving to the other side of the heel.

Now, just like in the beginning of this round, you’ll work 4 dc along the edge of both heel rows as shown by the arrows. Then, join to the top of the ch 2 at the beginning of the round.

How To Customize Your Stockings

These stockings look great as-is but they’re also a wonderful blank canvas, just begging for you to decorate and make them unique!

Embroidery – Stitch a name on the cuff or even embroider some snowflakes, santa, or other Christmas design on the stocking!

Patches – Iron on patches would be great for adding a monogram or another way to quickly add a design, if you don’t know how or don’t want to embroider. Just don’t use heat as it will melt the yarn. I’d recommend using fabric glue instead.

Beads or sequins – Sew or glue on some sequins or beads to give your stocking some sparkle.

How To Use These Mini Velvet Stockings

Hang them on your tree – These stockings would make cute ornaments, hanging on your Christmas tree, filled with candy canes, or even just by themselves.

Give as gifts – They make the most perfect gift card, candy, or other small item holder!

Decorate a gift – Tie one onto a gift along with a bow to give your wrapping a something extra!

Make a garland/bunting – String several mini stockings onto a piece of twine along with some beads to create a garland/bunting to hang on your wall or mantel.

Share Your Finished Stocking Photos!

The post Velvet Mini Christmas Stockings Free Crochet Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Crochet Aspen Scarf Free Pattern

Julie — Wed, 24 Mar 2021 16:21:27 +0000

The Aspen Scarf is a design that I originally started a couple of years ago, just for fun, because I loved this stitch pattern. I originally made it with a gray yarn that turned out to be too scratchy to wear and since I didn’t love it, it sat on the shelf…

Fast forward to the fall of 2020, I took a road trip through Utah and Colorado where I kept seeing the beautiful, bright yellow, aspen trees! I was in awe because we don’t have them here in southern California. Shortly after, I ended up looking at this scarf and saw the shape of aspen leaves in the stitch pattern. I immediately knew it was meant to be called the Aspen Scarf & I dyed up this pretty yellow yarn especially for it!

I’m happy to finally get to share the pattern online pokies with payid australia with you and hope you enjoy the stitch pattern as much as I do! I wanted to break it down really clearly for you, so in the instructions, you’ll see that I’ve included photos where I’ve worked each row in a different color along with the written instructions.

Download The Pattern

You can find the FREE pattern by scrolling down. A print-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern is also available to download for a small fee. If you enjoy my patterns, please consider purchasing the PDF – your support is greatly appreciated and will help me keep the new patterns coming! :)

>> CLICK HERE TO GET THE PDF ON ETSY <<

>> CLICK HERE TO GET THE PDF ON RAVELRY <<

Terms of Use

You are welcome and encouraged to sell any items you make using this pattern! When selling online, please credit Julie King / Gleeful Things by linking to www.gleefulthings.com or tagging @gleefulthings. You may NOT sell the pattern, distribute it in any form, post it online, or alter it to claim it as your own.

Yarn

#5 bulky weight yarn: approximately 320 yards

Example uses hand-dyed cotton yarn.

Yarns you might try: Lion Brand Color Made Easy, Lion Brand Scarfie, Red Heart Hygge, Cascade Pacific Chunky, Loops & Threads Charisma

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you click & make a purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps to ensure that I’m able to continue posting free patterns and tutorials! Thank you for your support! :)

Materials

US Size L/11 (8mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge, yarn needle, scissors, tassel maker (optional), 14 stitch markers (optional)

Difficulty

Easy

Finished Measurements

Width: 10”, Length: 75”

Measurements taken lying flat & not including tassels. Scarf has some stretch lengthwise when worn.

Gauge

Work first 9 rows of pattern. Resulting piece should measure 10” wide & 5” tall.

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s), sc – single crochet, dc – double crochet, st(s) – stitch(es)

Notes

Pattern is worked in rows.
Length can be adjusted by doing more or fewer repeats of rows 2-9.
I recommend using a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each repeat of rows 2-9 to help keep track of how many repeats you’ve completed.

Instructions

Row 1: Ch 28 (final ch counts as 1 sc), 1 sc in 3^rd ch from hook, *ch 3, skip 3 chs, 1 sc in next ch; repeat from * across until 1 ch remains, 1 sc in final ch – 9 sc + 6 ch 3 spaces.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc + 2 chs) & turn, 1 sc in next ch space, 3 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch space, *ch 3, 1 sc in next ch space, 3 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch space; repeat from * 1 time, ch 2, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in final sc – 11 dc + 6 sc + 2 ch 2 spaces + 2 ch 3 spaces.

Row 3: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc) & turn, 1 sc in next ch space, *3 dc in next sc, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch space; repeat from * 2 times, 1 sc in final dc – 18 dc + 9 sc.

Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc + 2 chs) & turn, skip 1 sc & 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, *ch 3, skip [1 dc, 1 sc, 1 dc], 1 sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc; repeat from * once, ch 2, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in final sc – 11 dc + 6 sc + 2 ch 2 spaces + 2 ch 3 spaces.

Row 5: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc) & turn, 1 sc in next ch space, ch 3, *skip 1 sc & 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch space, ch 3; repeat from * 1 time, skip 1 sc & 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in final dc – 9 sc + 6 ch 3 spaces.

Row 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc) & turn, 2 dc in same st, *1 sc in next ch space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch space, 3 dc in next sc; repeat from * 1 time, 1 sc in next ch space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch space, skip 1 sc, 3 dc in final sc – 12 dc + 6 sc + 3 ch 3 spaces.

Row 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc) & turn, 1 sc in next st, 3 dc in next sc, *1 sc in next ch space, 3 dc in next sc, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc; repeat from * 1 time, 1 sc in next ch space, 3 dc in next sc, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc – 18 dc + 9 sc.

Row 8: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc) & turn, 2 dc in same st, skip 1 sc & 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip [1 dc, 1 sc, 1 dc], 1 sc in next dc, *3 dc in next sc, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip [1 dc, 1 sc, 1 dc], 1 sc in next dc; repeat from* once, skip 1 dc & 1 sc, 3 dc in final sc – 12 dc + 6 sc + 3 ch 3 spaces.

Row 9: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc) & turn, 1 sc in next st, *ch 3, 1 sc in next ch space, ch 3, skip 1 sc & 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc; repeat from * 2 times, 1 sc in final dc – 9 sc + 6 ch 3 spaces.

Rows 10-121: Repeat rows 2-9 (14 times)

Fasten off after row 121.

Finishing

Create 8 tassels that are 6 inches long and attach 4 to each end of the scarf.

Share!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and I would love to see your finished work! Please share your photos on social media and tag me @gleefulthings or use hashtag #gleefulthings.

The post Crochet Aspen Scarf Free Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Crochet Velvet Slouchy Beanie Free Pattern

Julie — Fri, 06 Nov 2020 17:16:17 +0000

I really enjoy velvet yarn because it’s fancy and different. The yarn is pretty on it’s own so you can create something simple and it will still be really nice! That’s what I’ve done with this hat. It’s the perfect, basic slouchy beanie, but it’s made with velvet so it’s a little fancy!

Also, have you ever noticed how warm velvet yarn is?! Yea! :D It’ll be really nice for these coming winter months!

I designed this hat in 3 different sizes (I’m wearing a medium in the photos) so you can find the perfect fit for you!

This pattern completes my collection of velvet hat patterns. In case you missed it, I also have a Velvet Cloche and a Velvet Slouchy Hat (if you prefer more of a beret style slouchy).

Also, don’t miss my tips for crocheting with velvet yarn! It’s a little different so I shared my a few things to make it easier to work with.

Download the Pattern

>> CLICK HERE TO GET THE PDF ON ETSY <<

>> CLICK HERE TO GET THE PDF ON RAVELRY <<

Terms of Use

Yarn

#5 bulky weight yarn: approximately 90 (110, 130) yards

Example uses Yarn Bee Velvety Smooth in #05 Olive. Bernat Velvet is a great substitute!

Materials

US Size J/10 (6mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge, yarn needle, scissors, faux fur pom pom

Difficulty

Easy

Finished Measurements

Size	S	M	L
Length	10”	12”	14”
Around Edge	20”	22”	24”

Gauge

5 dc and 3 rows = 2”

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s), dc – double crochet, st(s) – stitch(es), sl st – slip stitch

Notes

Pattern is worked in joined rounds, starting at the top.
Ch 2 at beginning of rounds will always count as 1 dc.
Pattern is written for size S with adjustments for sizes M – L in parentheses like this: S (M, L).

Instructions

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc now and through out), 9 (10, 11) dc in ring, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 10 (11, 12) dc.

Round 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 20 (22, 24) dc.

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 30 (33, 36) dc.

Round 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 40 (44, 48) dc.

Round 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 50 (55, 60) dc.

Rounds 6-15 (17, 19): Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 50 (55, 60) dc.

At the end of round 15 (17, 19), rather than sl st to join, invisible join to 1^st dc & fasten off.

Attach a faux fur pom pom to top of hat if desired.

Share!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and I would love to see your finished work! Please share your photos on social media and tag me @gleefulthings or use hashtag #gleefulthings.

The post Crochet Velvet Slouchy Beanie Free Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.

Crochet Velvet Slouchy Hat Free Pattern

Julie — Thu, 15 Oct 2020 16:47:51 +0000

Just in time for cooler weather, I have a new cozy pattern for you! :) Introducing the Velvet Slouchy Hat! It’s super easy and available in 3 sizes!

After making my Velvet Cloche, I received a lot of requests for a velvet slouchy and you know I love slouchies, so I’m happy to deliver on that! This one is more of a beret style but if that’s not your thing, I also have a beanie style coming soon!

It’s a very basic pattern, no fancy stitches. I just wanted to create an easy hat because really the velvet is what is special about it, I think. So, this hat is very beginner-friendly! If you can double and single crochet, you can make this hat!

Also, don’t miss my tips for crocheting with velvet yarn! It’s a little different so I shared my a few things to make it easier to work with.

Download The Pattern

>> CLICK HERE TO GET THE PDF ON ETSY <<

>> CLICK HERE TO GET THE PDF ON RAVELRY <<

Terms of Use

Yarn

#5 bulky weight yarn: approximately 140 (160, 180) yards

Example uses Bernat Velvet in#32001 Vapor Gray

Materials

US Size J/10 (6mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge, yarn needle, scissors

Difficulty

Easy

Finished Measurements

Size	S	M	L
Length	7”	9”	11”
Around Edge	20”	22”	24”

Gauge

6 dc and 3 rows = 2”

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s), sc – single crochet, dc – double crochet, dc2tog – double crochet 2 together, st(s) – stitch(es), sl st – slip stitch

Notes

Pattern is worked in joined rounds, starting at the top.
Ch 2 at beginning of rounds will always count as 1 dc.
Ch 1 at beginning of round does not count as a st.
Dc2tog will count as 1 dc in stitch count at end of rounds.
Pattern is written for size S with adjustments for sizes M – L in parentheses like this: S (M, L).

Instructions

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc now and through out), 12 (13, 14) dc in ring, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 13 (14, 15) dc.

Round 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 26 (28, 30) dc.

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 39 (42, 45) dc.

Round 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 52 (56, 60) dc.

Round 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 65 (70, 75) dc.

Round 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 78 (84, 90) dc.

Round 7-11 (13, 15): Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 78 (84, 90) dc.

Round 12 (14, 16): Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, dc2tog, *1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 65 (70, 75) dc.

Round 13 (15, 17): Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc2tog, *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 2 to join – 52 (56, 60) dc.

Round 14 (16, 18): Ch 1 (does not count as a st now & through out), 1 sc in each st around, sl st to 1^st sc to join – 52 (56, 60) sc.

Round 15 (17, 19): Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, invisible join to 1^st sc & fasten off – 52 (56, 60) sc.

Share!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and I would love to see your finished work! Please share your photos on social media and tag me @gleefulthings or use hashtag #gleefulthings.

The post Crochet Velvet Slouchy Hat Free Pattern first appeared on Gleeful Things.