Global Drifter

Why Not? (Bungy Jumping, Lake Taupo)

2012-11-26T02:36:00.001-08:00

My heart is racing like I've just completed a marathon. A single bead of cold sweat trickles down my left temple, pausing for a moment at eye level before plummeting down my cheek. It leaves behind a path of icy fear and I ask myself again why it is I'm doing this. Nobody dared me to, I foolishly volunteered - after which there was no turning back (my kid sister made sure of that).

I take comfort in the fact that the man next to me is just as scared as I am, perhaps even more so. I watch his legs tremble and his fingers twitch, before I introduce myself and shake his hand. His name is Kim and he's from South Korea. As I think to myself that he might be the last person I ever see, I slap that thought from my head as he nods to himself nervously.

A finger appears amid the darkness of a cloudless day and motions for my new friend to step forward. It's his turn to jump - guess who's next? I find myself wondering whether his baby steps towards the instructor are due to stress or fear (completely understandable), or maybe it's because his legs are strapped together in a safety harness.

I soon find out as a second instructor appears out of thin air and fits me with all manner of straps and cords. Instead of easing my doubts, it accelerates them to fever pitch. 'There's no backing out now,' I think to myself as I watch Kim preparing himself to walk the plank. A prison yard pace is tough work in such gear, akin to taking part in a Mexican wave while wearing a straitjacket.

"1, 2 ,3... Go," says the instructor with a smirk and rolls his eyes. He's seen it all before a million times.

Cold feet happens to the best of us, but it rarely takes place in the ticket booth - it's always on the jumping ledge. I see Kim squinting in the sunlight, staring down at his shoes and refusing to blink. He looks lost as he glances back behind me, perhaps at his girlfriend in the crowd. He turns to the instructors and shakes his head sadly, his disappointment is obvious.

"1, 2, 3, Go!" says the instructor again, this time with a little more oomph. He checks his watch again and stifles a yawn. Shaking his head, he shares a chuckle with his friend and pushes Kim off the edge. He drops out of sight at once and although his scream is strained and hoarse, it's loud enough to echo down the entire valley.

"NEXT," bellows the instructor. He grins maliciously in my direction.

Terror roots me to the spot, as all my instincts combine forces and beg me not to leap off this perfectly stable ledge. Since approaching the venue, I've made a conscious effort not to look down. It's at this stage however, that guidelines get a little blurry and I take in all that is around me.

Inch by inch, I make my way across the platform and peer down into the turquoise waters of the Waikato River below. My head jerks in another direction, anywhere but down, and I see Lake Taupo in the foreground - New Zealand's biggest lake. Beautiful and majestic indeed, it's not enough to distract me from the horrors at hand.

Hooked up to a weighted rope below the platform, each movement or timid step I take feels like I'm being pulled into an abyss. I wonder for a moment if it's my own imagination, or my brain working against me to try and trick me into turning around.

After seeing what happened to the person who 'jumped' before me, it dawns on me - I don't want to be pushed. I signed up for this precise reason, to be scared out of my mind. I think everyone did. If bungy jumping was a walk in the park, everyone would do it. They wouldn't wait till they were 25, they'd do it in primary school.

Not wanting to speculate or philosophize any further, for fear of being tipped, I open my eyes and exhale the brisk mountain air. I bend at the knees, planning to nose-dive as I've been instructed but before I know it, I'm scrambling about in what could only be described as a mid-air doggy paddle.

Without knowing I'm doing it, my body instinctively braces for an impact that just doesn't come. Instead of speeding up as I had predicted, time slows to a devastating halt and the silence is deafening. It's just me and the rope now, which looks frighteningly like a million rubber bands stuck together.

The water below me is crystal clear and looming closer with each passing second - or is that millisecond? I have no idea how long I've been airborne, but I'm no longer terrified. I come to realise that although I'm out of breath, the mounting pressure makes it impossible to refill my lungs. Instead of worrying about a lack of oxygen, I start to savour the sights around me in a dizzy haze. Rolling hills to my right, green pastures to the left and a flawless blue sky is reflected perfectly on the water's shimmering surface.

Just as I begin to enjoy my free-fall descent, I'm jerked back upwards and the sudden rush of blood to my head forces me to close my eyes. As the elastic pulls me skyward, I feel weightless but at least I can take a breath. It's not like I imagine flying to be, yet more like drifting aimlessly in space. I have no control as to which direction I float and can only flail my limbs helplessly.

After sufficiently bobbing up and down like a yo-yo, it's time to return to life on land. To do this is no easy process, as I must grab hold of a steel rod and lower myself into a rubber boat. Once the self-dubbed 'search and rescue' team remove the cord and harness, the banter begins.

"What was it you screamed out on the way down?" asks the boat driver, with a curious expression on his face.
"I told you so," I reply. "My sister told me I wouldn't have the guts to go through with it."
"You're nuts bro," he laughs. "No way would I ever do that!"

At first I think he's joking, as staff members must be privy to discounted jumps year-round or freebies on their birthday. I notice though, that he's not laughing so perhaps his fear of heights is genuine. I think to myself that it's probably no coincidence he's working at the bottom of the jump, rather than the top, as he would hardly be a motivating factor to prospective jumpers in the ticket booth.

SIDEBAR - Although not yet as well known as its South Island counterpart Queenstown, Taupo is also becoming a mecca for extreme sports. For those irked by the idea of dangling 47 meters above the ground by a giant rubber band, there is also world-class skydiving on offer and high-speed jet boating. The latter of which is a distinctly New Zealand activity and sure to get your adrenaline pumping.

Those looking for more sedate activities will be pleased to know they can also enjoy Taupo without risking life and limb. Lake Taupo prides itself on being the 'rainbow trout capital of the world,' so anglers take note! Fishing expeditions are offered at local tackle shops, while rods and reels can also be rented out for the day. Scenic flights are offered in the form of small planes and helicopters, while those wishing to remain on dry land can take advantage of the region's renowned wineries or take guided walks through the mountains.

For more information on bungy jumping and other extreme sports in Taupo, please visit - http://www.taupobungy.co.nz/

Weird Bangkok

2012-05-11T11:35:00.000-07:00

A trip to a notoriously graphic forensic science museum wouldn't top the to-do list of many normal travelers in cosmopolitan Bangkok. However, fed up with glitzy shopping malls and the tranquility of temples, I find myself yearning for something off the beaten track. Instead, I found a celebration of severed limbs in what could only be described as the lair of a mad scientist.

To call it stomach churning would prove to be a grand understatement. However, even after watching the sallow faces shuffle in and out, curiosity won the battle and I ventured inside Thailand's oldest hospital to check out Siriraj Medical Museum.

For the bargain price of only 40 baht, those who aren't squeamish can gain access to six separate sections - each with their own interesting exhibits. As for the winner of 'most grotesque,' it's a tie between Forensic Pathology and the creepy crawlies found within the Parasitology section.

I start out with tapeworms and flesh eating bacteria, opting to face the worst first (or so I thought). The first stop is a delightful public service announcement, which although dubbed in Thai is reminiscent of infomercials around the world. My fear laid to rest, I take note of foods known to contain harmful toxins and pat myself (prematurely) on the back for having such a strong stomach.

From across the room I spot what appears to be spaghetti. Having had fettuccine alfredo for lunch, a possible link between pasta and parasites worries me. Inching my way up to the exhibit, I rejoice in discovering that it's nothing close to linguine, but recoil upon discovering the truth - tapeworms. A painstaking recreation of a man's rectum, overflowing with enough infectious parasites to start a game called tug of war.

After that truly disgusting display, I make my way to the Forensic Pathology section and breeze through the initiation displays of alcohol's damage to the liver and the lungs of a pack-a-day smoker. Scary stuff no doubt, but no worse than the graphic images on any cigarette pack in Australia.

I manage to make it past the dismembered body parts floating in jars, but the winding corridor of dead fetuses is enough to make me shudder. Out of the corner of my eye, I spot a large group of students ogling a glass display in the corner. Resting his forehead on the stained glass, is the naked body of a dirty and decaying man. Unable to translate the small plaque, I ask one of the students for more information.

"Si Quey is a famous man, but not for good reason," says Ann, a first year law student at Bangkok University. "Over fifty years ago, he was executed for rape, murder and cannibalism." During his reign of terror on suburban Bangkok, he killed six children and ate their hearts and livers.

It's a strange feeling when you meet a dead celebrity. Si Quey is a name known outside of the law profession too, probably because his name is still used to frighten young children into behaving themselves. In what looks like a see-through broom closet, I notice the door knob has broken clean off and been replaced with a patchwork of cellophane. Although his mummified body is preserved in petroleum jelly and long dead, a cold shiver runs down my spine - it's time to go.

On my way out, I pass by a kiosk stall serving snacks and beverages. Not surprised at the lack of customers, I wonder if my appetite will ever return. Looking to stimulate the senses, I leave the hospital grounds and head for the throbbing heartbeat of this modern day metropolis - Silom Road. This is both the financial centre of the capital by day and a raucous party district after dark.

Street food stalls line the busy side streets, with more than just Pad Thai on offer. Thailand is a haven for foodies and the capital city is no exception. Almost all cuisines are represented and depending where you are, the distance between authentic Italian and a Syrian kebab may only be a few steps. As the intoxicating aroma of Tom Yam wafts over me, I'm shocked to find my appetite stirring into life once again.

After dark this part of town becomes a veritable maze of food, with vendors setting up shop on the busy pavement in every direction. Giant woks splutter with oil and do little to conceal the dancing flames below. I hear the bell of an approaching food cart, but what I see shocks me. No, it's no ice-cream. Instead, it's a bountiful buffet of bugs, deep fried to perfection! Stir fried water beetles, locust kebabs and many more 'delightful delicacies' that are sure to make your skin crawl.

Clinging vehemently to vegetarianism as an excuse, I choose not to chow down on a cockroach kebab, but instead ask around for an infamous restaurant in the area by the name of Cabbages and Condoms. The tropical heat and staggering humidity makes negotiating the crowded streets difficult, but i'm determined to see if there really is a restaurant in town that's decorated with nothing but prophylaxes.

After wandering aimlessly under a fool moon with my cheap t-shirt clinging to my back in sweat, I take a chance on a side street and finally find one of Asia's more bizarrely themed restaurants. Unlike other themed restaurants in Asia, such as Modern Toilet in Taiwan or The Lockup in Tokyo - this isn't just another money making scheme.

Before I'm ushered to my table, I walk around the courtyard and take note of all the billboard size posters on display. Funded by the Population and Community Development Association (PDA), I learn that a large percentage of profit goes towards helping the poor in rural areas across the nation. The condom theme is explained instantly by all the safe sex themed t-shirts, latex insignia and novelty keychains for sale in the gift shop.

Although more expensive than street food, the restaurant is nothing if not a classy affair. The open courtyard plays host to traditional Thai musicians each evening after 7pm, while Christmas lights drape the trees and wax candles occupy a space on each table. While some of the condom creations such as table flowers are rudimentary and basic, others are elaborate and meticulous like the light features (pictured right).

While it's more than most backpackers would spend on an average meal, it's good knowing that a large portion of the bill is going towards helping people in need. The menu reflects the Isaan region of Thailand, which as the poorest region - is where most of the funds are directed.

Those who like it spicy are in for a treat, as Isaan is home to the almost mythical Papaya Salad (not for the faint of heart) where chilies aren't so much used as a spice, but as a main ingredient. I choose to keep my eyebrows in place and order a light and refreshing bowl of mushroom soup. As I smell the aroma of fresh coriander mingling with crushed lemongrass from a few tables over, my appetite returns with gusto. Dining without a date, I take full advantage of my anonymity and slurp down the fragrant broth in a flurry.

First-timers can be spotted laughing at condom chandeliers, but many more come back time after time for authentic regional cuisine. Like all good restaurants the food quickly takes centre stage, although the restaurant's choice of after dinner mint substitution almost always results in a giggle.

Blissful Baguio & Panagbenga

2012-05-11T11:33:00.001-07:00

BLISSFUL BAGUIO

Text - RJ Fry
Images - Rob Rownd & Kelsey Barrick

While hard to believe for those of us in colder climates, the Filipino trend is to escape the heat during summer and flock to the mountains. Baguio, nicknamed the 'Summer capital of the Philippines,' is a charming city in Central Luzon with much to offer the visitor.

Although most postcards of the Philippines highlight white sandy beaches and coconut trees swaying in the breeze, a trip up North to the Cordillera Central mountain range provides a different viewpoint on this fascinating archipelago of 7,107 islands.

As well as trying the local delicacy of taho (soy bean pudding), a trip to Camp John Hay is a must-do when visiting Baguio. Home to a world class golf course, designed by none other than Jack Nicklaus, the cool mountain breeze makes 18 holes a delight – rather than a chore. The cooler climate also means it's also the only golf course in the Philippines to contain bentgrass greens, meaning you won't have anything to blame – except for your putter.

There's also more than just golf to keep you entertained, with amenities like garden mazes and paintball sure to keep a smile on everybody's face. If you don't feel up to the full eighteen, there's also a mini-golf course – so you won't miss out!

The Philippines is known for such stomach churning delicacies such as Balut (partially formed duck foetus), made by famous by TV chefs such as Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern. However, for those of us a little less adventurous, why not try Chocolate de Batirol? Somewhere between a hot cocoa and peanut soup, this ancient chocolate concoction contains no preservatives whatsoever – not to mention a delightful lack of feathers and beaks!

The ancient preparation has remained unchanged for centuries, as I see for myself with the barista dashing out from behind the counter to grind out the mixture on my table. It's a gluey mix that's both thick and bittersweet, not to mention 100% Filipino. Choco-late de Batirol is located by Gate 2 at Camp John Hay and offers this traditional beverage, along with a few flavorful twists.

Baguio's Botanical Gardens are also worth a visit, as they proudly showcase woodcarvings and traditional artworks from local tribes. Talking with local vendor, Edmund, I learn to spot the difference between handmade carvings and those formed by machines.

“In Cordillera region, we use only one piece of wood – so each piece is unique,” he says proudly.

Not for the first time in Baguio, I spot the carving of a sullen man with no expression who sits solemnly to stare at each person who walks by. Edmund tells me this is a carving of their rice god, who goes by the name of Boolo.

“He is a very good luck charm for businesses. In ancient times, he would guard the rice sacks or barrels of rice wine,” he says. So essentially, having faith in Boolo meant one would never go hungry.

The indigenous people are not forgotten here either, with proud statues and sculptures scattered throughout the gardens. While there are all sorts of flowers and plants to be found, the real focus is on learning about local culture that has remained so for thousands of years. I learn that be it oil painting or weaving, the number of barrels depicted has to do with the celebration at hand. Three barrels is for a small celebration such as graduation, while five barrels is for a wedding and seven barrels is for a baby.

SIDEBAR: Panagbenga Festival

While Carnivale of Rio de Janiero is famous the world over for lasting five days and nights, Panagbenga Festival lasts for over a month. A lot of the events are aimed at children, making it an ideal choice for families. There are carousels and bumper cars, just as you'd find at any showgrounds back home. Those looking for a throwback to yesteryear, rest easy – there's a roller disco found inside Burham Park.

This annual 'festival of flowers' has been going strong for 17 years now, with each year attempting to outdo the last in the form of elaborate artwork and colorful displays. It was first held in 1995 to rebuild the city's image and morale after a devastating earthquake that shattered Baguio in 1990. The Grand Float Parade takes place each year on the last Sunday of February and it truly showcases the creativity that's possible through gardening.

As you can imagine, the streets are flocking with people as tourists from near and far gather to see these artistic creations. Forget sleeping in, as the parade starts in the crisp morning air at 8am. Visitors and locals flock to Session Road, where the floats are marched proudly down the street and on to the field at Baguio's Athletic Bowl, where they remain on display for the rest of the day.

Oriental dragons, the type that wouldn't look out of place in Chinese New Year festivities, are an annual staple entry. Complete with delicate scales and fearsome teeth – you can only tell they're made from flowers when you're close enough to touch it. Some of the floats are topical, mimicking the latest trends or popular web games such as “Angry Birds.”

More than just a celebration of flowers, Panagbenga is a celebration of Spring and green living. As I trekked through Baguio's winding and often steep roads, I found myself entering Burham Park to wander through a dazzling display of florists and gardening stalls, with vendors all too happy to share helpful advice. It was the bonsai stalls that held my attention the longest, and I couldn't keep myself from gazing at their intricate, albeit miniature, system of roots and branches.

While Baguio has always been somewhat of an escape from the hustle and bustle of Metro Manila, those seeking solitude would be more at home in nearby mountain towns such as Sagada or Banaue during the month-long festivities. Originally built for 25,000 inhabitants, it has adapted to fit 250,000 people fairly well. However, that number rises almost to a million during Panagbenga, which is one of the biggest festivals in the Philippines.

In a time of iPhones and 3G wi-fi connectivity, it can be hard for the younger generation to connect with their ancestral roots. Northern Luzon, or at least pockets of it, was one of the few areas in the Philippines to escape colonization, which meant their culture and customs were kept intact. Every year during Panagbenga, indigenous people from various nearby tribes put on workshops, perform tribal dances and sell traditional woodcarvings.

GETTING THERE

By Air – Although there is an airport in town, unfortunately there has been no commercial service to Baguio in recent years. Through flying Air Asia though, you'll arrive at Clark Airport, rather than Manila, which means only a 3 hour bus ride rather than 5.

By Bus – The most convenient and economical way to get to Baguio is by bus. The journey will take 5 – 7 hours, depending on traffic. For a smoother journey, opt to leave at night or very early in the morning.

Buses leave throughout Metro Manila and the fare is 450 – 700 PHP ($10 - $16 USD) depending on if you choose standard, deluxe or VIP. Buses depart frequently from Victory Liner's terminal, in both Pasay and Cubao.

WHERE TO STAY

El Cielto – (www.elcielto-baguio.com) isn't located downtown, but it's only five minutes by taxi from all the city's attractions. Rooms start at $42 USD per night which includes hot/cold shower, cable television, air-con and wi-fi. It's terrific value for money.

Red Lion Pub – (www.redlionpub-baguio.com) More than just your standard pub, Red Lion also plays host to many weary travellers and there's live music every night. Rooms start at $18 USD.

Paladin Hotel – (www.paladinhotelbaguio.com) Located in the heart of Baguio, Paladin Hotel is somewhat of a boutique option. All room rates are inclusive of breakfast, hot/cold shower and cable television. Rooms start at $40 USD.

Taal Volcano - A Tale Of Two Cities

2012-05-11T11:31:00.000-07:00

Taal Volcano

City #1 - Tagaytay, Cavite

Like Baguio to the North, this small mountain town serves as a welcome respite from the steamy heat of Manila – not to mention the crowds and chaos. However, unlike its Northern counterpart, Tagaytay is only one hour away by bus, which makes for a perfect weekend escape.

Although not as chilly as other mountain towns such as Sagada or Banaue, the average temperature is still a mild and pleasant 22.7 degrees Celsius - which will sound like bliss when you're sweating it out in the capital. The cool alpine breeze and fresh pine scent will surely stir your senses, while just single glimpse of Taal Volcano from your bus on the highway will have you reeling.

Nicknamed the city of fog for good reason, mist in the air only adds to the charm and romance of the place. Winding roads, a nip to the air and a full moon puts me in mind of Bram Stoker's Transylvania.

Famous throughout Central Luzon province as a 'fruit destination,' stalls line the city streets selling tropical delicacies such as mangoes and pineapples, as well as stranger items such as jackfruit (lanca). Always curious to try something new, I order this strange and alien-like fruit and watch the vendor prize it open with a few swift moves of her machete.

The taste is unique, somewhere between the range of a mango and a banana, but with a texture to remember, it manages to be both chewy and soft – something like the tapioca pearls found in bubble tea.

You can't help but notice the merchants hawking their goods, as if you attempt to make any purchases at a busy time, you'll notice a sound akin to the commentary box at a horse race – regardless of the language used.

The clean fragrant air and abundant fresh produce on offer, always means that delicious food is never far away. For those looking to splurge on a fancy night out, Antonio's Restaurant is widely regarded as the best restaurant in the Philippines and is officially the 5^th best in all of Asia (Miele Guide). Think of it as French/Filipino fusion, itself an oddity, but with a view like nowhere else in the world.

I rise early and am fully dressed and out the door of my guesthouse by 5am, expecting to jostle for position with other members of the snap happy contingency, but strangely – nobody's awake. I make my way to Starbucks, known for having the best viewpoint along Tagaytay ridge, but I've got nobody to keep me company but a surly security guard intent on watching me like a hawk.

Unable to get that perfect shot of sunrise, I jump on the next jeepney bound for People's Park in the Sky. This crumbling structure was originally intended to serve as a guesthouse for former president Ronald Reagen but was never completed. Open to the public, it's popular among visitors for having a nice viewpoint of Taal Lake, but also Metro Manila on a clear day.

I arrive at around 7.30am, a full thirty minutes before the gates open, leaving me enough time for an alfresco breakfast. Fresh buko juice (coconut) is a steal at 30 php, while a sweet juicy segment of pineapple is only 10 php.

Sitting along the roadside, I'm caught up in a swirling sea of clouds and can barely see 5 meters in front of me. While People's Park isn't exactly atop Mt. Everest, the omnipresent fog for which the city is famous for, will make you feel as if you've ascended into the clouds and reached the round table with Zeus.

The amphitheater is perfectly positioned and with blinding white fog in each direction, it looks like the elaborate set and stage of a Greek tragedy. While the rest of the buildings look drab and unfinished, it's the location adjacent to heaven's pearly gates that keeps people coming back.

City #2 - Talisay, Batangas

To really appreciate Taal Volcano, you must view it from above and below. To do this you must visit both the towns of Talisay and Tagaytay, but don't worry – only a short tricycle ride separates the two.

Barely ten minutes downhill from Tagaytay, this small lakeside town is in another province nonetheless (Batangas). The township itself stretches out, with several guesthouses and restaurants sprawled along the water's edge. The magnificent volcanic backdrop looms in focus and with a little bargaining, a boat ride to the island within the crater lake can be had for under 1000 PHP.

Taal Volcano is not only the world's smallest active volcano, but also part of the Pacific ring of fire. Since 1572, there have been a whopping 33 recorded eruptions and as such, it's under constant surveillance. An eruption in 1911 killed 1,335 people, while dangerous activity such as toxic fumes and rumbling sounds were reported as recently as last year.

Climbing to the top is relatively stress-free, but rather than make a miserable horse's day a little worse, I decided to scale the 400 meter summit solo. Vendors renting horses warned me it would take hours, but after taking their suggestions with a grain of salt – managed to reach the rim within 40 minutes.

Easily done for both children and adults, the amount of dust and dirt accumulated along the way is remarkable. Whatever you do, don't wear your Sunday best! Visitors who make it to the top, whether by horse or by foot, have the opportunity to buy 'Taal Volcano' souvenir t-shirts, while similar apparel is absent from stalls and stands along Tagaytay ridge.

The scenery is stunning along the way, although it never allows you to forget you're trekking up a volcano – not a mountain. For instance, instead of regular soil to tread upon, warm volcanic ash will heat you up with each and every step. Also, whenever you see smoking rising, don't get alarmed and assume it's a bushfire – those are just normal volcano emissions.

Pearl Farm Resort

2011-06-30T04:21:00.000-07:00

After twenty minutes of smooth sailing, our almost silent boat (a novelty in The Philippines) docked upon the shore of this sublime island paradise. Recently swallowed up by the ever-increasing city limits of Metro Davao, Samal is the perfect island for escape.

My first impressions of Pearl Farm are nothing but awe and wonder. It's perhaps no surprise to me, that this resort was designed by an artist and not an architect, which adds to its already abundant postcard persona. The theme is Asian tropical, with Balinese style high ceilings, bamboo structures and thatched roofs.

Once home to an abundance of pink, white and gold pearls, the resort covers 14 hectares and was once home to thousands of white lipped oysters. Unlike other resorts in the area, the buildings don't impose on the tranquil settings. Instead they were built around the contours of the island.

Before I even get a chance to step inside my room, I'm dwarfed by the size of it all. This may be considered basic accommodation by the elite, but these lodgings are bigger than my house. This really is how the other half live, with the price tag reading 'splurge only.' The moment you step off the boat, the staff are there to welcome you with warm smiles and open hearts. You don't just feel like a VIP here, you are one.

Something as simple as bathroom towels, become origami creations, with each day presenting a new animal. I can scarcely believe my eyes, as I spy an elephant sitting on my bed, made from about 3 bath towels and a boatload of patience. The following day, my elephant friend is gone only to be replaced by an elegant swan.

The sandy coves are a blinding shade of white with the midday sun, and the surrounding turquoise waters fluctuate between green and blue throughout the day. I sprawl myself out on a lounge chair to read a book, and notice the change of colors between chapters. Yes, it really does happen that fast.

Breakfast and dinner is a buffet affair, with world class cuisine and both Filipino and Western food available. Maranao Restaurant serves a varied mixture of cuisine, with many different palates catered for to suit a complex list of clientele.

I opt not to wait the required thirty minutes before swimming, as the twinkling ocean rises and falls before my eyes, teasing me. The water is just right for a dip, making swimming a superb activity of choice anytime of day. The warm waters are akin to a jet-stream jacuzzi. The snorkeling is also good with supreme visibility and calm currents.

For those snorkelers who consider themselves a little more adventurous, the bigger fish lay waiting under the resort jetty. It's here you will find tuna and snapper, as well as barracuda if you're lucky. For scuba divers with an itch for exploration, there are two sunken WW2 battleships less than 60m from the resort.

Aqua Sports Activity Centre is home to many activities, both above and below the water's surface. Speed boats and outriggers can be rented out for a sunset cruise, perfect for honeymooners and hopeless romantics. Although banana boats, kayaks and wind surfing is all on offer, I can't refuse a jet ski.

Jet skis are available on a per use basis, and feeling like something new, I decide to give it a go. It's like mixing the 'walk on water' abilities of Jesus Christ, with the rebellious nature of 'Easy Rider.' It's bliss. As I roar across the water to a not too distant mountain, all the worries of the world are blown away. The huts on the shoreline quickly come into focus, and the ripple of waves left by my wake, provides a nice rocking action to my machine.

Home to more than just indulgence and water sports, visitors are also able to learn about the Mandaya people, a tribe native to the area of Eastern Mindanao. Adjacent to the tennis courts, I watched the intricate process of transforming a local cloth known as Dagmay, into everything from handbags to household ornaments. In the process, I was lucky enough to learn a little about their tribal folklore and spiritual beliefs, something I don't think they offer at Club Med.

GETTING THERE

By Plane - From Metro Manila, three major airlines fly daily to Davao and the flight is a breeze at only 1 hour and 45 minutes.

By Boat - Two shipping lines (SuperFerry & Sulpicio) have regular trips to Davao from various locations, scattered throughout the country, including; Manila, Iloilo City & Cebu. Travel time from Manila can reach two days.

RATES & SERVICES

Prices range from somewhat affordable to downright expensive. The Hilltop Room is the most affordable at $150 USD per night, while those wanting to splurge on a Malipano Villa can expect to pay $680 USD each night for the privilege.

Roundtrip transfers from the airport will set you back $20 USD, while the roundtrip boat transfers will cost another $25 USD.

Cafeteria Verde

2011-06-10T03:16:00.000-07:00

CAFETERIA VERDE - Robinsons Galleria (3rd floor)

With simple yet sufficient settings, this small restaurant is more like a food stall but it makes good use of bamboo fencing, something that brings out the eco-warrior in all vegetarians. Cafeteria Verde offers shoppers 'the better option,' meaning healthy lifestyle choices but perhaps most importantly - an affordable price

A diverse selection of vegetarian and vegan friendly choices. For starters, enjoy deep-fried and battered cauliflower florets, served on a bed of lettuce with curry dipping sauce. The best bet in the appetizer section though, are the bean and cheese taquitos - comprised of spicy beans and sharp cheddar cheese wrapped in a flour tortilla. Served with homemade salsa or aoli (get the salsa), the jalapeno tang and sharp cheddar bite will leave even carnivores frothing at the mouth.

As well as sandwiches and a better-than-average veggie burger made of tofu and mushroom, this small restaurant also serves complete meals. A variant of spaghetti bolognese is on offer, and with a delicate yet rich sauce of garlic, fresh basil leaves, ripened cherry tomatoes and olive oil - you won't miss the beef.

The Mongolian style fried rice is indeed delectable, topped with long strips of fried egg (or tofu) and crushed peanuts. In true Mongolian style, the dish isn't overly spiced or sauced, which lets the fresh vegetables and subtle flavors speak for themselves.

The health craze doesn't stop with the food either, as you'll find no soft-drinks or beer on tap here. All drinks are healthy fruit or vegetable (or both) shakes, made freshly on the premises before your very eyes.

Mt. Iglit National Park

2011-05-28T05:21:00.000-07:00

This jungle reserve is well worth a visit for all nature lovers. The journey there takes a little over an hour on a motorbike from San Jose, but the bumps on the 'bitumen' will make it feel twice as long. It's best to hire a guide once you get there, as townships turn to jungle before your very eyes, quickly too. It's also a great way to experience the way of life of Mindoro's indigenous Mangyan people.

Our guide is named Paulo, and upon meeting him, he introduces us to his wife and eight children, who giggle and gawk at me, smiling their adorable smiles. We are invited to a banquet meal before our arduous bout of jungle bashing, where only local ingredients are used. The small fish are caught from a nearby mountain stream, the rice is freshly harvested from a neighboring paddy field and all the vegetables are grown within the homestead. All eyes are on me as I chow down on a delicious plate of rice and veggies, as Paulo informs me that his children have never seen a white man before. His youngest son illustrates this point, by pulling the hair on my leg and barking at me like a dog.

After finishing our meal, we say thanks and bid farewell to our gracious hosts. Paulo warns me that the length of our proposed hike is four hours up and four hours down. Surrounded by such pristine beauty, I think only of the wonders that lay ahead, and not the turmoil it will cause for my body.

Our journey starts on a well trodden path, wide enough for two people to walk abreast. The weather is hot and clammy, the air humid and heavy, so when it starts to rain - it's with great relief on my part. I embrace is with arms outstretched, Jesus Christ style. My guide chooses instead to wait it out beneath a makeshift shelter of banana leafs, looking at me meekly from time to time, between puffs on his menthol cigarette, all the while shaking his head in disbelief.

The rain ceases momentarily and we trudge on, slipping and sliding in the mud that has engulfed our trail. The pathway has been reduced to the width of a bicycle tyre, and the constant battle through sharp bushes makes me reconsider my choice of short pants. Paulo runs ahead, undaunted by any obstacle we cross.
"I am here everyday, for hunting purposes," he says. "I am chasing the wild pigs, deer as well."
The national park is also home to the tamaraw, a subspecies of Buffalo endemic to Mindoro.

Alas, Paulo finally stops ahead of us and disappears into the jungle. Thinking perhaps he has gone to relieve himself, he returns instead clutching bananas in one hand and a jackfruit (lanca) in the other. The bananas are different to others I have tried, with a floury texture and slightly bitter aftertaste. The jackfruit on the other hand, is perfectly sweet and delectable - if a little alien-like. Prizing it open with a few swift motions of his machete, we feast on the sticky fruit, which tastes like a cross between mango and banana. The texture is strange, both chewy and soft at the same time.

When we finally do reach the peak of Mt. Iglit, we have only a few moments to catch our breath and stand in awe of our surroundings. It has taken us close to four hours to scale the summit, but nightfall is soon approaching and we must beat it down to the bottom of the mountain. Prior to descent, I spot the rice fields in the distance and fondly gaze at that psychedelic shade of green. A pulsating spectacle, found only beneath an Asian sun.

Due to a mudslide earlier in the day, our downward path is even more difficult than anticipated. I fall so many times that my once blue t-shirt, is now the color of the Earth. I decide a swim in the muddy banks isn't entirely out of the question. The river is fed by a mountain stream and thankfully, is refreshingly cold. I shed away six hours of jungle sweating by situating myself between rocks, letting the constant slap of water cascade on my back.

Nearing the end of our journey, we pass a water hose used for the surrounding rice paddies. Without so much as a second thought, I drop to my knees and direct the stream of water inward. It is muddy in color, and grainy in texture, but I don't give a damn. Overcome with elation, I soak myself from head to toe for the second time that day. It's only then, laying sprawled on my back, that I comprehend the magnitude of what has just happened.

I'm by no means a mountaineer, and before Mt. Iglit, I hadn't so much as scaled a small hill. I didn't find the elusive Tamaraw, but I found the utmost respect for the Mangyan people who call this place home. Walking away from Paulo's house and to our awaiting motorbike, my legs have been transformed into two strands of overcooked spaghetti. Paulo however appears not to have even broken a sweat. Clamoring up and around these peaks on a daily basis surely has benefits.

Corner Tree Cafe

2011-05-02T00:46:00.000-07:00

CORNER TREE CAFE - BEL-AIR, MAKATI (Jupiter Street)

Vegetarians rejoice!

Finally there is somewhere we can go to enjoy a meat-free menu in Manila =)

This simple and understated cafe in Makati, has a definite European vibe. The waiting lounge for takeaway orders, highlights the laid-back charm of the place, with comfy couches and magazines making you feel like you're at a friend's house. The clientele is a 50/50 mix of Filipinos and Westerners, but most importantly - the food is delicious. Everything is vegetarian or vegan, from the salads which are more than an afterthought, to the downright decadent desserts on offer.

The cuisine is Mediterranean inspired, with more than a little Middle Eastern Fusion. It's all prepared fresh, and the ingredients are only pure vegetables, with no mock meat. The best sellers are the Baked Tofu Walnut Burger, and the oozing cheesy goodness of the Spinach & Mushroom Lasagna.

I opt to start out with a Sicilian Tomato Soup, which is quite possibly the best I have ever tasted. Whole wheat bread is added to the soup, which adds texture and depth of flavor. The vegan option contains no cream, but I go for the vegetarian choice and the result is fantastic. For a main course, I just can't help myself. I go with a classic kid's choice and pick the Grilled Cheese. The sourdough rye is both flaky and crusty, and perfectly complimented by olive oil. The juicy roma tomatoes mix well with the basil leaves, and the overall result leaves me more than satisfied.

Athan, staff member, had a few thoughts on what makes Corner Tree Cafe stand out.
"We use only vegetables. We don't use old recipes with meat-free substitutions - that's boring," he says.

It works too. This hidden gem of a restaurant, does steady business in a meat lover's environment, winning awards along the way. In 2010, it was nominated for 'Best Specialty Restaurant' in Manila, and was added to the Miele Guide, which lists Asia's finest restaurants. In PETA's list of the best vegetarian restaurants in the country, Corner Tree Cafe ranked 3rd.

Open for two years now and going strong, manager Chiqui Mabanta, has thoughts of expansion for the future, with plans for a branch in Quezon City to be opened within the next two years. Open everyday except for Mondays, you should check it out now before it becomes a household name.

Address: 150 Jupiter Street, Bel-Air Village, Makati

Phone: (0917) 848-1004


www.spot.ph

Crucifixion Carnival

2011-04-28T00:51:00.000-07:00

A modern day crucifixion?

Surely not something at the top of any traveler's to-do list. Alas, it was something I wanted to witness first-hand. Real nails, real hammers, but worst of all - real hands and feet! A thousand times owch.

The crazy thing is, people are volunteering for this. I must constantly remind myself that nobody is being punished, but rather, something they look forward to each year. I spoke with Ruben Enaje, shortly after coming down from the cross for the twenty-fifth time in as many years.

"Why put yourself through all this pain?" I ask, unable to stifle my most obvious question.
"Why take a bath at the end of each day?" he retorts quickly, grimacing each time he touches his heavily hobbled hands.
"Do you want to see?" he suggests, catching me looking at his bloodied bandages.
"No, that's OK" I try to say, but it's of no use. He thrusts forward his battle scars, and I find myself looking at a gaping wound in his left palm. There is little blood, but a bouquet of bone and muscle on display. He catches my look of terror and laughs proudly.

Once the volunteers come off the cross, they are treated like rock stars. Everyone wants their picture taken with these brave souls, but shaking hands is strictly frowned upon.

Close by to the crucifixions, a man walks blindly, with a black sheet over his head and a crown of thorns upon his brow. His back is bare, dripping with blood that spurts and splatters with each crack of his whip. A passerby, riding in a pedi-cab, curses herself for wearing white as he stomps past her.

The man's pants have begun the day as the color white. Hours of searing heat, dust and constant whipping have created a backlash of blood. The sweat pants are now blood-red, and their owner winces with each step he takes.

Suddenly, I find myself in a meditative trance. The whip-slap soundtrack provided by the masked madman, combined with the intense heat and humidity has taken me to an astral realm. All of a sudden though, reality shifts back into focus with a loud bang. Everyone begins to rush in the same direction - there is to be one more crucifixion for the day!

As I reach the mound where the crosses are stationed, I look around at my surroundings and notice the similarities to the real deal, two-thousand odd years ago. The weather is steamy, but with desert like temperatures to boot! The landscape is somewhat baron and ultimately, it is rural. There's a viewing platform, and vendors selling everything from San Miguel Pilsen to Buko juice.

The final volunteer has the look of unease in his eyes, eyes which bulge with fear as several coils of rope fasten him to the cross. His hands are washed with alcohol, with just one step left in the process.

A soft thud from the hammer, is all it takes to force out a blood-curdling scream as his body writhes in agony. His body is writhing, like a snake being skinned, and his howls of pain could wake the dead. A similar result occurs when the right palm is nailed to the cross, and he's sobbing as they stand the cross up straight. He's not out of the woods just yet though, as each foot must be nailed in place too.

Perhaps only in The Philippines would a vendor of helium-inflated animal balloon animals stand just meters away from a man being crucified. He looks on with interest as the nails disappear in flesh, before looking around the crowd to see if anyone needs a refreshment.

There's a long list of events that fall under the category of 'only in the Philippines...' - but for me, this stands out!

Holy Walk to Antipolo

2011-04-23T03:46:00.000-07:00

"There are more people on the roads than cars!" I think to myself. There's music and marching madness all around and the air is fever-pitch. One thing's for certain, the excitement is contagious. It's not long before I'm swept up in the encompassing enthusiasm and brush up on my marching skills.

If it weren't for the tens of thousands of other people ascending past me, I'd think to ask a few questions. I'd want to know where exactly everyone was heading to, but with this many people bustling past - it was inevitably something worth seeing.

Along the busy stretch of Ortigas Avenue, we hear the steady beat of marching drums and murmured prayer. The jeepneys and tricycles that jostle for position with the swarm of pilgrims, are careful not to honk their horns and upset the religious reverence that's ever present. For once it is us pedestrians who aren't the minority, rejoice!

Starting in Pasig City, we leave the hustle and bustle of Manila after about two hours. It is then that we begin to scale the mountains of Antipolo. Once you begin the winding path up the hills, all fourteen stations of the cross must be crossed before reaching the famous church. At each station, there are a collection of stalls selling food and beverages. There's also musical performers and dramatic re-enactments of the final hours of Jesus Christ.

Post midnight, the atmosphere is akin to that of a carnival, and rather than complain about a long night of walking, families are roaring with laughter and people are dancing in the streets, all the while chanting prayers directed at the heavens above.

We had been walking for more than four hours, and feeling worse for wear, began to see how those around us were holding up.
"Since Taguig," says Anne, a student from Taguig City University. "We are now walking for our seventh hour. We started at 9pm, it is now 3am. I'm so very tired."

After such a tiring walk, many people opt to sleep outside the church, on nothing more than newspapers. Understandably so for some, who have walked as far as 50 kilometers! Spread out upon their favorite tabloid, many people sit down with friends for a late-night picnic of beer and snacks.

Antipolo is roughly 25 kilometers from Metro Manila, and is home to the most stunning and sweeping views of the seventeen cities that make up our world-class city. The view at sunrise is awe-inspiring, and well worth the trek. Watch as it basks in gentle orange ambiance of early morning sunshine that knows not yet of traffic.

Dumaguete City

2011-04-16T06:03:00.000-07:00

To many people, Dumaguete is nothing more than a ferry-point to the nearby islands of Cebu and Bohol. To those who dig a little deeper, it's a charming seaside city with a lot to offer visitors. Known as the 'city of gentle people,' it's an easy place to make friends, all while soaking up the sun in this laid-back town.

The capital of Negros Oriental prides itself on a relaxed vibe and friendly outlook. As you watch the palm trees swaying to and fro with the evening breeze, you might just find yourself doing the same. This is the kind of place where alarm clocks seem foreign, so leave yours at home!

The centuries old Dumaguete Belfry, adjacent to the city plaza, offers visitors with a fascinating glimpse into local history. Back in the day (1760's), it was used to warn the townspeople of incoming pirates. Legends of buried gold circulate the town, so you never know your luck!

As it's located right next to the cathedral, the exterior of the bell tower is adorned with religious sculptures like the virgin mary. The dome a top the building is lit up at night, as if to warn any would-be pirates, centuries later.

Rizal Boulevard, also known as 'the boardwalk,' is lined with clusters of coconut trees - the calling card of the tropics. A lot of bars and restaurants can be found along this strip, while cuisines as far-flung as Indian and Indonesian can be found and feasted on. Live bands play most nights in open-air venues that surround the boardwalk. Like elsewhere in The Philippines, the bands are usually full of energy, and delight in entertaining the crowds.

WHERE TO STAY - Hotel Nicanor is your best bet as for where to bunker down while in town. The building is kept immaculately clean, and right from the moment you step through the doors - the staff make you feel right at home. Situated right in the heart of the provincial capital, you're within walking distance of all the city sights. With rates starting at just 850 PHP, it really can't be beat.

Bacolod City

2011-04-05T02:55:00.000-07:00

They call it the 'city of smiles,' and with good reason too. Wherever you wander in town, you're sure to be greeted with a grin. Market vendors and taxi drivers alike will engage you in conversation, no idle chit-chat either, with topics involving anything from the crisis in Libya to your marital status.

The city itself is laid out much in the manner of those in Latin America, with a town plaza and public parks galore. The streets are full of Spanish-era buildings, and some of the churches date back as far as the 1800's. Many visitors opt to soak up the atmosphere inside, which you're more than welcome to do at mass time. I decided I would put my agnosticism aside and have a peek. I had barely taken a step into San Sebastian Cathedral, when I heard a madman condemning contraceptives, labeling them as part of a 'cycle of death.'

Shaking off the madness, I decided it was time for a beer. Preferably San Miguel. Lacson Street, is home to the largest amount of bars and restaurants in the city, with Korean and Japanese being the most sought after cuisine. Golden Fields is the entertainment district, with karaoke bars and acoustic bands galore, not to mention more than a few go-go bars.

Bacolod City is a highly urbanized one, and HQ of the sugar bowl (Negros) with 500,000 residents. Visits can be arranged to nearby sugar mills, where you can witness the process of transforming sugar cane into the granulated form used daily around the world.

"It's the Filipino equivalent of the deep south in the USA," says Imelda, local resident. "It's very laid-back, church and family play the biggest role in our daily lives." The relaxed atmosphere makes for a perfect escape from the stresses of Manila. The Provincial Lagoon is the Bacolod equivalent of NYC's central park, with a man-made lake, statues and green growth abundant. It acts as a mecca for jogging and fitness enthusiasts in the early hours of the morning, with musical groups practicing in the afternoon.

The Ruins are as the name suggests, the remnants of a Spanish-era mansion. About 10 kms outside of town, it appears on the horizon out of absolutely nowhere. The building was torched by Filipino guerrilla fighters during WW2, to avoid the Japanese using it as their headquarters. The surrounding farmland of sugar cane plantations has been unchanged for centuries.What's left of a once great mansion, now plays host to a charming restaurant, with a mini-golf course to keep the kids entertained.

WHERE TO STAY

SPLURGE - L'Fisher Hotel is the perfect place to lap up a little luxury, with 180 rooms and right in the middle of Lacson street. Go on, opt for the royal treatment. All rooms come with air-con and a private bathroom, and the hotel is home to not one, but three separate restaurants. Try the wood-fired pizzas from Chalet Rooftop Bar, they're the best in Bacolod! Room rates start at 3,500 PHP, while the Royal Suite will set you back a whopping 12,200 PHP.

BUDGET - Sea Breeze Hotel (San Juan street) has to be one of the nicest budget hotels I have come across in the whole country. Room rates start at 850 PHP, and all come equipped with air-con, cable television and a private bathroom. The hotel is said to be one of the oldest in the entire city, and the building itself is very grand and a throwback to the Spanish era.

Nagarao Island

2011-03-31T12:30:00.000-07:00

Situated just fifteen minutes off the coast of Guimaras, coincidentally home of the world's sweetest mangoes (stock up, they're served in Buckingham Palace!), this ten hectare island is a pristine paradise. A postcard-perfect tropical island - all to yourself? Imagine that! Escape the mundane, escape the everyday - on Nagarao you can do both. It's a temple of isolation, not desolation, and well worth a visit for anyone in the area.

The fragrant scent of frangipani welcomes visitors to the island, and the resort staff all follow suit. Due to the small size of the resort, meals feel a lot more like dinner at a friend's house. Expect the cook to greet you by name and suggest activities for you during the day. The food is fantastic, and can be suited to fit any diet, even vegetarian (thankfully). Just be sure to let them know when you make your booking.

You can go for a jungle walk and try your hand at living off the land a la Bear Grylls, with coconuts and papayas readily available for harvest - providing you can scale a skinny tree. This little patch of perfection is the definition of serenity. The only sounds you'll hear at night are the crescendo of waves crashing down upon the shore, itself a soothing tonic to the stress of city life. The air is sweetly scented, and as there are no motorized forms of transport on the island - remarkably fresh.

After dark and armed with nothing but a flashlight, I explore the coastline on the lookout for nocturnal life. Hermit crabs of varying sizes shamble awkwardly on the sand. I pick one up and it instantly retreats into its shell. After taking a couple of steps though, it makes an abrupt exit from home. Looking more like a prawn than a crab, it quickly scuttles into another abandoned shell. I reflect how handy it would be to hide in your own shell, whenever someone you didn't like approached you. These hermit crabs have it easy.

Activities during the day include; swimming, sunbathing, sailing and snorkeling, although the latter is somewhat restricted by weather. If Mother Nature decides to smile upon you though - you're in for a treat. Nagarao Island is surrounded by a coral reef, and with that comes a multitude of marine life. Fishing trips can be arranged, as can island hopping but it's important to remember not to overfill your schedule. You're here to relax after all =)

The island is also a haven for birdwatchers the world over, with many species calling it home. The surrounding waters are home to some truly strange creatures too, like squirting sea cucumbers, and skinny-armed starfish, not to mention small crabs that are either translucent or camouflaged (it's impossible to tell).

Scattered along the coastline, there are sixteen individual bungalows. Rustic, yet romantic, they each come with a private bathroom and a choice of air-con or electric fan (for bookings and info, check out http://www.nagaraoresort.com).

If swimming in the sea is not your cup of tea, a swimming pool is provided. If you'd rather stay active during your stay than slumped on the beach, there's also a tennis court. Don't worry though - it's not mandatory ;)

Boracay Island

2011-03-24T07:22:00.000-07:00

First impressions are rarely anything to set your watch to, and Boracay is no exception. The streets are overflowing with tourists, and pushy vendors selling everything from scuba diving too sunglasses are in abundance. The beautiful beach is swamped with bars and restaurants, but luckily the soothing ocean breeze comes at no cost to the visitor.

There's a plethora of activities to keep you busy during the day, with a wide range of water sports including; sailing, paragliding, jet-skis, snorkeling and glass-bottom boat tours. For something a little different, give helmet diving a go. Think scuba-diving without all the complicated equipment and tiresome tutorials. It's a strange sensation to be breathing naturally, several leagues beneath the sea.

Boracay offers activities above sea level too, such as go-karting. With the smell of burning rubber, the constant whur of engines at full capacity and the murmurs of spectators - close your eyes and you could be forgiven for thinking you were at an F1 track. A tricycle ride to Boracay Gokart should cost no more than 50 PHP.

With pedal to the metal, I zoom around the 1km track, opting not to hit the brakes at corners but drift and swerve instead. For 30 mins on the track, and just as many laps, I'm more than content to relive childhood memories - this time without fear.

For early risers, 'True Food Indian Cuisine' holds daily yoga classes at 9am. While the rest of Boracay is busy sleeping off hangovers, experience island tranquility and serenity before the masses awake from dreary slumber and converge on White Beach.

Other areas of Boracay offer visitors a glimpse at what life was like before the hordes of tourists. The northern tip of the island has areas better suited for snorkeling, so rent a motorbike, hire a marsk and fins - have some fun! Puka Beach is perfect for a fruit picnic, with sweet mangoes and pineapples available from many beach vendors. At certain times of the day, you may just find you have the beach all to yourself.

As a prime tourist destination, there are many restaurants to choose from, with cuisines the world over represented. Although the prices are somewhat inflated, you should have no problem finding food that suits your palate. Everything from vegetarian to Texas BBQ is on offer, with even Mongolian thrown in for good measure.

Olé can be found in D*Mall, and is the perfect place to escape exorbitant prices. A fine mix of Spanish/Mexican/Cuban/Filipino fare, it is open 24 hours a day and the food is excellent. Open for five years and going strong, include it in your itinerary.

After dark leaves White Beach pulsating with energy. The pounding disco beats last until around 4am, with drunken party goers perfecting their dancefloor shuffles on the powdery white sand with unabashed enthusiasm. Live bands can also be found, themselves a welcome respite for those a little techno weary.

WHERE TO STAY - Hey Jude Resort is the best of both worlds. Just a 3 minute stroll to the stretch of shore that made this island famous, this hotel comes complete with a quiet courtyard and is surrounded by coconut trees on all sides - a perfect sound buffer against the noisy nightclubs on White Beach. Each of the rooms are well appointed with air-con and cable television, and breakfast is included daily.

La Sirenetta

2011-03-16T01:33:00.000-07:00

LA SIRENETTA - CORON, PALAWAN

This is Palawan, and scuba diving is king. However, for those of us who prefer to stay above sea level, luckily dining out is a close second. For a small town, Coron has a multitude of restaurants to choose from. As it's a seaside town, seafood fanatics will have a field day here, spoiled for choice by Palawan's many fishermen. Vegetarian options are also abound, but one must look a little harder to find them.

La Sirenetta has an ideal location. It is perhaps the most perfect restaurant setting I have encountered anywhere in the world, in fact, if I ever meet the right girl - it will be here that I propose to her. That's a promise. Surrounded by the jagged Palawan landscape, and a calm tranquil bay of crystal clear water - how could she say no?

Finding it can be a little tricky though, as you must follow a jetty to reach it, as it floats above the water - like a halo on an angel's head. It is adjacent to Coron Public Market, which is the first landmark many people stepping off from a banca will see upon arrival.

Sitting down to the first of many meals I enjoy here during my stay, I glance over my shoulder and spy a shoal of shimmering fish, their scales glinting in the streaks of early evening sunshine. Being by the water's edge has more than just visual benefits too, as a wafting sea breeze on a hot sunny day will tell you more than words can.

La Sirenetta serves both Filipino and Western delicacies, with a focus on Italian cuisine. The pizza and pasta here is to die for, with fresh tomato sauce prepared daily (banana ketchup is banished from the premises). The bruschetta is amazing, with the tang of fresh tomatoes, and the bite of sweet basil, perfectly complimented by two thick slices of crusty bread. The pasta is prepared al dente, and the spicy arrabbiata sauce is definitely one for chili lovers.

Those with a sweet tooth will not be disappointed either, as the desserts on the menu are much more than just an afterthought. The sweet crepes here rival those of a cafe on the Seine river in Paris, and are stuffed with local produce. Think pineapples, mangoes and bananas, all prepared with a delicate chocolate rum sauce. It's a match made in heaven, having both a sweet taste and warming touch.

On every post there is a mermaid looking out to sea, with the rest of the interior decor being both tasteful and maritime themed. Canoes hang upside down from above, and plaques of giant crabs and other trophies fished from the sea dot the walls. The staff are friendly and welcoming, and although the prices are a little steep by local standards, it's without a doubt value for money.

FACTS & FIGURES

Appetizers - 100 - 200 PHP

Mains - 250 - 500 PHP

Specials - 500+ PHP

STAR RATING - 4.5/5

Food - 4.5

Location - 5

Prices - 4

Staff - 4.5

Atmosphere - 5

Address: Near Central Market, Reef Pier

Coron, Palawan

2011-03-14T11:29:00.000-07:00

There are several ways to find yourself in Coron, Palawan.

You have the option to catch a one hour flight from Manila, and while it's convenient - you're missing out on a lot of adventure along the way. If you have an aversion to airplanes, or just really love the deep blue sea - you have the option of going by boat. Don't expect a huge and luxurious cruise liner though, as I did, for the boat you catch probably won't be big enough for 15 people.

The journey from San Jose, Occidental Mindoro, lasts about six to eight hours depending on weather conditions. Although stuffed to capacity with cargo, everything from rusty spoons to chicken wire, I am still able to stretch my (sea) legs - albeit on bags of rice and garlic. As it can be a tiresome journey, the crew are kind enough to share their lunch with the passengers. For hours at a time there is no land in sight, but rather than feeling helpless, I'm exhilarated by the experience. Even when the captain is zig zagging through treacherous waves, I can't help but smile and slap my thigh at the rise and fall of this small wooden banca.

That's not to say I wasn't relieved when we finally reached land. Touching base in Coron, I felt instantly welcomed by the landscape of sheer limestone cliffs, tranquil waters and indeed civilization itself - a respite most welcome.

Once out of the boat and on dry land again, I bypass the gang of tricycle drivers and walk towards the Hollywood style 'CORON' lettering on the top of one of many mountains that surround the cityscape. The streets themselves are a winding maze, with a buffet of dive-shops, restaurants and bars to choose from. Proving once again that Filipinos are the most hospitable bunch in all of Asia, i'm welcomed to Palawan a whopping seven times, just en route to my hotel.

After a few days of relenting, I give in and do something touristy. I opt for a day of island hopping, and within ten minutes i'm sitting on the banca and awaiting adventure. With a firm prod of a mighty bamboo pole, the captain of the ship sets sail. The motor coughs and splutters into life like a pack-a-day smoker as we leave Coron harbor for a day of snorkeling through corals in and around the shipwrecks of WW2 battleships. The air is no longer heavy and humid, as we bid a silent thanks to the gentle sea breeze.

It's still true, even in this day and age of wireless internet and talking toilets, that we know more about what goes on in outer space, than we do in the depths of our mysterious oceans. The coral reefs here resemble an underwater forest of sorts, complete with trees, bushes and grass (so to speak). The first life form that I spot underwater is a starfish the size of Shaquille O'Neal's hand, but with fat sausage-like fingers. A tremendous shade of shimmering blue, I watch it sit idly by, clinging on to a rock face.

As I rise to the surface to rinse my goggles, I'm followed upwards by a shoal of flying fish. I watch them glide atop the water, like skipping stones on a lake, before they submerge once more. No doubt due to the sunken ship, this cove of corals is a protected area, offering the chance to see fish both big and small. What catches my interest though, is a puffer fish, both the shape and color of a pineapple.

No doubt seeing me as a threat, it seeks refuge out of harm's way in a coral crevice. I watch its head darting out every once in a while, just to watch me watching it. I take a break from swimming to sprawl myself on the sand beneath a coconut tree. It is then and there that i'm reminded of a statistic that lists falling coconuts as the most likely way to injure yourself in Palawan. It beats being knifed on a train carriage in Perth, but I think for now, I'll find shade elsewhere.

The skeleton wreck of a Japanese battleship from WW2 is just as the name suggests. All that remains are the bones of a once great warship. The hull is encrusted with shells, and slowly but surely it is becoming part of the subaquatic furniture. The surrounding waters are the murkiest shade of navy blue and the atmosphere is more than a little somber. After several attempts, I succeed in touching it, if only briefly. Seeing as how this is my first attempt at free diving, and it's ten meters below the surface - I'm glowing with pride nonetheless =)

Cockfighting Derby

2011-03-07T04:05:00.000-08:00

Let's get something straight - I am an animal lover.

I have been a vegetarian for many years now, a legitimate one too, not one of those fish eating fakers. I don't use leather products and avoid even gelatine. So it was with great fear and apprehension that I stepped forth into Green Harvest Rice Mill Arena, on the outskirts of San Jose, to witness my first cockfight. Before doing so however, I looked into the facts.

It surprised me greatly to learn that the fighting rooster leads a life of supreme luxury for close to two years before his first bout, living outdoors during the day and safely tucked in at night in a tee-pee style house - roughly the size of a small dog kennel. They are fed an athlete's diet full of nutrition, and nowhere else in the world will you see a rooster in such perfect shape. Like a pooch at a dog show, these birds are flawlessly presented, and sparkle before your very eyes.

Compare that with the life of a chicken bred for slaughter, and it's clear who the winner is. In fact, it's a bit like chalk and cheese. Those less lucky spend about six to eight weeks stuffed into a cage, one so small it is unable to even spread its wings. The cages are stacked on top of one another, meaning a shower of shit for everyone but the 'penthouse' dwellers. The only daylight they ever see is en route to the slaughterhouse, it is truly a miserable existence.

The design of the arena is just as it is for any other sporting spectacle, with the platform surrounded by four waves of stands. The air is pungent with the stale smell of cigarette smoke, beer burps and charred meat - a final warning to the roosters yet to do battle. One by one, the stands slowly fill with a steady stream of people. Men, women and even toddlers take their seats, awaiting battle.

The atmosphere is electric, filled with the crow of cocky competitors waiting for war. The first two fighters in the ring size each other up, but feathers do not fly just yet, as their trainers take them to opposing sides of the ring. Bookies announce themselves amongst the crowd by standing while others sit. The call for bets is akin to an auctioneer's cry (utterly incoherent), and in an instant the stadium is in a frenzy. People fall over one another in a mad scramble to place their bets.

With all bets made, the roosters are left to do battle. One bird circles the other, both holding each other's gaze unblinkingly, waiting to see what happens next and sizing up their opponent.

It happens in an instant. First there is a squawk, followed closely by a flurry of feathers. One rooster mounts the other, cutting up his back with his leg dagger while simultaneously pecking the back of his head. The referee intervenes, picking up both fighters and placing them back on the ground. One warrior struts proudly while the other falls limp. Just like that, it's over. The equivalent of a first round knockout.

I stay to watch a few more bouts, and am utterly shocked at the amount of survivors. I thought this was more of a battle to the death, but of the ten bouts I see - only one rooster croaks. There's not nearly as much blood as I imagined, and in reality - nobody is forcing the roosters to fight. In one instance, one competitor runs scared, refusing to fight. The audience just laughs, and the match is a forfeit.

"Will you come back next Sunday?" asks Boboy, my local friend (ma biet).
"I don't think so mate, but it was quite an experience!" I reply.

Boboy smiles as we clink our cans of San Miguel Light together. I may not have jumped on the bandwagon, but i'd gladly watch a hundred more cockfights before eating a single McNugget.

Such is life where one trainer leaves the ring jubilant, his winning bird raised high above his head. The other leaves heartbroken, his counterpart of two years held close to his chest, barely clutching onto life. It was an experience, that's for sure. It's also good to get your facts right, see the big picture and never jump to conclusions.

San Jose, Occidental Mindoro

2011-02-26T08:26:00.000-08:00

San Jose is a standard provincial town, with most people just passing through or using it as a gateway point to Palawan or the magnificent Apo Reef. Stick around though and you'll see, that this is the kind of place where friendship flows freely. It's also home to world class diving and an abundance of marine life. People may try and touch your skin here, but with the accompanying look of bewilderment, and eyes that know no malice - it's hard to get upset. Just smile back and drop some Tagalog, you'll be amazed at the reaction you get.

It's also one of the most romantic cities in the whole country, with waterways akin to those of Venice (if only used in the suburbs) and an annual event dedicated to love on Valentine's Day. Referred to as 'Happy Heart Day,' the town is awash with tinsel and decorations that wouldn't look out of place on a Christmas card. The central plaza is flooded by neon love hearts, while couples stand hand in hand (or cheek to cheek) and a series of events put on by the beloved town Mayor. These include a battle of the bands, synchronized break-dancing routines, comedy sketches and prizes galore.

Occidental Mindoro is a Filipino province that sees few western faces. While Oriental Mindoro offers the beaches of Sabang, naughty nightlife and a ferry to Boracay, the other side of the island remains largely untouched and authentically Filipino. It provides visitors with a chance to see the real deal, not to mention village life when peering out of the jeepney on the journey there. Villagers are very friendly too, so don't be surprised if you're invited home for a glass of Ginebra, a local hard liquor (not for the faint of heart).

In town itself there is a very reasonable beach that you're more than likely to have to yourself. Nightlife is restricted to competing karaoke bars, where you won't be so much encouraged to sing - you'll be downright forced to. At sunset, take a walk along the beach. See traditional houses on stilts, bathing in a silky orange glow that only happens for a few moments each day. On the way you're bound to pass some children engaged in torom po (a yo-yo variant), while dozing dogs yawn happily at their surroundings. Everyone you pass is more than likely to greet you fondly, as if you were an old friend. Wear a big smile and keep an open heart. If you do, you'll never want to leave.

After nightfall, the karaoke boxes go into overdrive, but that's not where the fun ends. San Jose is a haven for live music, with restaurants such as Chowder (Rizal street, opposite Jolibee) hosting bands every night of the week. Although covers of western pop songs from yesteryear are the norm, if you're lucky enough, you might just hear some Filipino folk songs.

Sabang, Puerto Galera

2011-02-19T05:37:00.000-08:00

It's with apprehension and fear that I walk the plank, not off the boat but instead onto it. The drawbridge connecting the pier at Batangas, to the public ferry, is nothing more than a ladder splayed on its side. Balancing both a backpack and laptop carrybag, I dread each step, but thankfully make it on board without submerging myself.

I'm greeted in Sabang by the usual throng of touts hoping to gain a hotel commission or sell a shabby shark tooth necklace. Instead I look for my own lodging and find a quaint but clean room on the waterfront for 900 PHP. More than I was planning to spend, but seeing as I caught the last ferry of the day - I have only myself to blame.

During the day, Sabang is all about scuba diving and snorkeling, with other watersports on offer such as jet skis and island hopping. At night the town comes alive with naughty nightlife. Clubs and bars are abundant, with lots of go-go girls - all glitter and grins. Hobbling after them with lust in their eyes are older gentlemen, desperately trying to reclaim their youth and former glories.

Once you've passed the city limits of Manila, everything slows down. The pace of life in Sabang is incredibly laid back, and while city dwellers may complain about a lack of activities, this is the tropics - embrace it! Just don't expect an ATM. Kick back with a good book or beer on your balcony. No matter where you are in Sabang, you're never too far from the beach. The weather is warm all year round, so it's always a good time to swim.

You can hire a motorbike for next to nothing, like 500 PHP for a full day's riding. The laws are a little lax out here too, so don't expect having no license to stop you in your tracks. There are many sights nearby that are worth exploring too, such as nearby White Beach and many splendid waterfalls.

Snorkelling is superb, with crystal clear waters meaning visibility is uninterrupted in every direction. I float alongside shimmering shoals of fish that show no fear while I remain still. The fish display the sort of colors that put the neon signs in Las Vegas to shame. I spy an eel squirming out of an underground crevice, a pulsating green from tip to tail. Some of the other marine life present include; hawksbill turtles, reef sharks, pygmy seahorses and unfortunately - lots of jellyfish. Their sting is just irritating though, leaving behind nothing but a momentary itch.

Hire some gear (don't forget fins) and you're able to do some serious exploration! Caught adrift in an ocean current for several hours is more fun than it sounds. I found myself living out a Robinson Crusoe fantasy. A small but sufficient beach, without another person in sight! Instinctively, although not hungry in the least, I began my search for coconuts, finding only debris and tin containers rusted beyond recognition along the way. I resigned myself to a little sunbaking instead. The unmistakable call of the wild welcomes me back to reality, with a monkey's screech attempting to outdo a parrot's squawk.

This is the life =)

Manila After Dark

2011-02-14T09:18:00.000-08:00

(The following article was published on TouristAttitude on the 13th February, click here to check it out)

It would be hard to say that Manila ever truly goes to sleep. After all, this is a city comprised of sixteen separate cities, with a greater urban area of over twenty million people. That's bigger than London or New York City. It's also a town that's very difficult to pigeon hole. If you're partying it up in Malate or Makati, you might just feel like you've popped out west again. A trip to Intramuros will make you feel like you've gone back in time to the 16th century, while a trishaw ride at breakneck speeds through the streets of Pasay will firmly plant you back in Asia.

Shopping is serious business in town, with the SM - Mall of Asia currently reigning supreme as the biggest in all of Asia. Here you can find absolutely anything you'd possibly need, as well as many items you'd never need, even if you lived to be a hundred years old. For instance, there's an entire shop devoted to Buffalo bone carvings, talk about a niche market!

Makati is a part of the city that feels very westernized, with designer shopping, fast food chains and trendy hangout spots galore. The streets and buildings are meticulously clean and kept in tip top condition by an army of street sweepers. As such, the area is frequented by westerners on vacation, as well as expats seeking a break from the encompassing madness. This is in direct contrast to areas like Pasay, a part of town where spotting white folk could almost be considered a sport!

Malate is the premier district in town for nightlife, with bars, restaurants and a staggering amount of nightclubs. Electro music is the staple sound for the Manileno youth, and expect it to be played loud and until all hours of the night. Even on weekdays. Black Dragon Pub & Disco is a nightclub that stands out for me, with friendly staff, a wide selection of drinks and the kind of sound system that will make your ears hum for days on end. It can be found in Remedios Circle, and is open late seven days a week.

Manila has a reputation for having the best nightlife in all of Asia, but don't fret if techno is not your thing - you're not alone (you're also sane). There are many live music venues in this part of town, playing a wide range of genres from western covers to Filipino folk music.

Manila

2011-02-09T20:27:00.000-08:00

The capital city of The Philippines, along with her residents (Manilenos), display an abundance of Latin flair. Manila is a city that was ravaged by WW2, second only in total damages to Warsaw, Poland. Looking around though, that's all in the past, as the city's many skyscrapers do so proudly exclaim. Widely considered as one of South East Asia's most cosmopolitan cities, Manila is bursting at the seams with possibilities.

The first thing most visitors will take away from it, is the unashamedly friendliness of the people. Expect big smiles, happy faces and excited waving - all from strangers. I must have been welcomed to Manila six or seven times, all within the first few hours of my arrival. This is the kind of place where a smile goes a long long way. Looking like Jesus even vaguely will get you grins and giggles galore. So don't get a haircut, don't shave and you will reap the benefits.

The streets are crowded in parts, and particularly in Pasay, the traffic is more than just daunting - it's a nightmare. Somehow though, in the midst of all this chaos and craziness, it just makes sense. If you feel the need to escape the confusion though, Rizal Park is located close by in the city centre. It's a popular picnic spot for families and lovebirds alike. There are lush green landscapes, water fountains of outrageous proportions and an abundance of outdoor aerobic classes. Don't be surprised if you get asked to join in! Why not? There are worse ways to spend your time than getting fit with gorgeous Filipino girls ;)

Near the park, you can see the shrine built for the national hero, Jose Rizal, of whom the aforementioned park was named after. Jose Rizal was among other things, a freedom fighter, scholar and renowned poet. Some of his more popular poems are on display in his shrine, which can be found in Fort Domingo, Intramuros. The site of his assassination is located in Rizal Park and flanked by armed guards 24/7.

This is the oldest part of town, with the wall that surrounds the district being built in the 16th century. Amazingly, it is still intact today, even after the battering Manila got during WW2. The area is perfect for wandering around and getting lost in. If it's too hot for such luxuries though, be sure to hail a pedi-cab. You can get a tour of all the hotspots for the bargain rate of 150 PHP, without even bargaining! Highlights include; Fort Domingo, Manila Cathedral and other historical churches. There are also a few restaurants in this part of town serving up authentic Spanish fare.

Your pedi-cab driver may have a few suggestions of his own too.
"Do you like guns, big guns?" he asks me excitedly, in an accent akin to Tony Montana.
"Sure do!" I reply, trying but failing to match his enthusiasm. All around the world - boys will be boys.
He proceeds to take me on a tour of all the guns, cannons and artillery that remain to this day. He pedals with a feverish excitement, that wasn't there only moments earlier. Clearly he is bored with churches, but the infatuation with firepower remains.

Mumbai Madness

2011-01-30T18:19:00.000-08:00

(The following article was published on TouristAttitude on the 28th of January, 2011. Click here to check it out)

The Gateway of India is a very somber location in the early hours of the morning. The touts and tourists are no more, leaving just the roaming street dogs in their place, alongside a few misguided bats. The canines are of a friendly nature here, and act more like they've jumped over a back fence, rather than lived their lives on the street. Although the memory of being chased through Kolkata's dark streets by a pack of wild dogs is anything but forgotten, I make firm friends with one dog, who seems particularly enamored with my blue pen, leaving behind bite marks that tell the same tale. The opposite of camera shy, she was also very fond of licking my camera lens.

The air is sweet and sultry, a humid mix of spices and incense that is unmistakably Indian. This is the best time of day to explore Mumbai, as not only do you have the streets to yourself, the heat is yet to reign supreme. As sunlight returns, so too do the people, and much to my delight there is a chai-wallah among the early worms! As I sit down and sip my first chai of the day, I watch an elderly woman do her morning exercises, which for some reason involves a lot of clapping. She wears a light pink sari, heavy gold jewelery and a smile that is far too bright for 7am.

Without nearly enough time for a return trip to Elephanta Island before i'm due back at the airport, I decide to check out Dharavi - the largest slum in all of Asia. It's also where many scenes from 2008's Slumdog Millionaire were shot. The slum is like a town within a town. There are vendors, businesses, and an overflowing amount of garbage. There's even a river of trash, which has clogged up the stream and allowed no water to pass.

Away from the business sector of town and into the residential enclave, the mood shifts suddenly. There is laughter abound, and alongside colorful saris and immaculately pressed shirts, the people wear broad smiles. Perhaps this is due to the abundance of shade found in the many walkways (the buildings here are built so close together, it's as if they overlap. This is not the ugly and desperate place I'd envisioned. Like the majority of India I have seen, the people are proud, loud and overflowing with life.

Mumbai is to India what NYC or Los Angeles is to the USA. People come from all over the country, in search of their slice of the pie. While it may be home to the thriving Bollywood cinema industry, people come for reasons besides a career in the limelight. For the majority of new residents, Dharavi is the first place they call home within the sprawling city. Like a microcosm of the subcontinent, Dharavi offers visitors passing through India, a taste of what the rest of the country has to offer.

Manic Mumbai

2011-01-22T01:58:00.000-08:00

After many (16) hours on a bus and many more in transit, I find myself in India's most populous city - Mumbai (aka Bombay). Home to the thriving Bollywood cinema industry, as well as the nation's emerging financial strengths, Bombay is a great place to soak up modern India.

The city has a tropical climate, with warm balmy winters and horrendously hot summers. It feels like a big city too, with huge buildings, billboard advertisements, countless apartment blocks and a frantic frenzy that only comes with too many people and too little space. In terms of population, it is the second largest city in the world with around 15 million residents.

Compared to other metro centres like Kolkata or Delhi, the streets are remarkably clean and litter-free, although still not immaculate. You needn't look hard too hard to find rubble or refuse. For the most part though, especially in the city's southern district, the streets are swept clean and green growth is abundant. While some may refer to it as a concrete jungle, Mumbai is a city of trees. There's the coconut and palm trees that line Chowpatty beach, to the long limbed fellows who line the city streets. There's also plenty of public parks and gushing gardens, patronized by those escaping the searing heat, and young lovers averting an unwelcome gaze.

For something a little different, check out the Parsi cemetery while you're in town. Although it's strictly off limits to all tourists, a good cab driver will drive you to a lookout spot where you can have a cheeky peek over the fence. Instead of being dressed in their Sunday best and lowered underground in a wooden box, the Parsi people leave the dead bodies in the open, and at the mercy of local wildlife. A tradition that i'm told by my cabbie, is 'thousands of years strong.'

To get around Mumbai, you have a lot of options. The train network is well developed and efficient, although a little hot when overcrowded. People push and shove too, so enjoy your cup of hot chai elsewhere, unless you'd rather wear it. The heat can make walking long distances a little tiring, so many travelers opt to hire a taxi for half a day at around 400 rupees. Although this figure isn't fixed, and with heavy bargaining you could probably get it done for 300 or less. The Gateway of India is arguably the city's biggest landmark, and undoubtedly the most photographed. It's swamped with tourists day and night, although you may just have it to yourself at the crack of dawn, if you're lucky. It's big, it's beautiful and although a little bit cliche - you've got to check it out. The surrounding harbor is worth a peek too, and if you can afford it, the Taj Mahal hotel which is adjacent to the monument, defines Indian luxury.

You won't go hungry in Mumbai, with street stalls and vendors selling regional specialties, as well as snacks from all over India. Vada Pav is an example of authentic street food, not to mention a surviving relic of the Bombay of old. Known locally as an 'Indian burger,' it consists of a curried potato puff, topped off with some fiery chutney sauce and served in a white bread bun. Although simple, it's a delicious and addictive treat which is served everywhere (especially at train stations and beaches) for about 4 rupees, or $0.10c USD. Pronounce it 'waa-dah parv' to avoid confusement.

Cafe Leopold is a Bombay institution, even without vada pav on the menu. Famous for decades with tourists, and for over a century with locals, it came back into the limelight as a popular hangout for ex-pats and small time criminals in the novel Shantaram. It was also sprayed with bullets by gunmen during the 2008 Mumbai Terrorist attacks. Established in 1871, it's undoubtedly overpriced and frequently overcrowded, but Leopold's is still a fine place to sit down for lunch and people watch. 'Bombay Masala Sandwich' is a cheesy curry sandwich, that tastes better than it should (or sounds).

It's especially crowded at night, so thirsty travelers should probably consider finding a smaller bar to sink a few after sunset. I found myself in the equivalent of an Indian strip club, just a couple of streets over. It was like any other strip club in that the ladies were standing while the men were sitting (and leering). The smell of cheap perfume, vapid expressions and downright seediness must be universal, but the similarities stopped there.

The women were dressed in elaborate saris, beautiful jewelery and caked on make-up. They didn't dance though, but merely stood in a line, exchanging a scowl for a smile whenever eye contact was made. Men would beckon a single lady towards them, rewarding their beauty with a bundle of rupees. There was no dancing, or removal of clothes, and somehow this made it seem all the more shallow to me. The girls were given money purely for their looks, nothing else. Waiters wearing formal attire served the guests liquor and peanuts at inflated prices, while I just scratched my head absent-mindedly, lost again in yet another strange world.

Mind-bending Manali

2011-01-03T06:03:00.000-08:00

The bus ride from Shimla to Manali, is a perfect example of passing through hell in order to get to heaven. I've been on some terrible bus journeys in my life (Bangkok to Siem Reap anyone?), but this ranks high among them - perhaps #1! The seats are cramped, air flow is minimum and this stretch of forever winding road has an insatiable appetite for motion sickness. It happens quickly. A passenger will stick their head out the window, as if looking for something, before vomiting heavily. The splashback factor often results in spray and splutter reaching even the last window on the bus. Nobody is spared the carnage and through specks of spew, the mountainous scenery is somewhat spoiled :P

With low speed monotony (260km = 11hrs), and a lack of any suspension whatsoever, time becomes nothing but a concept, passing which is impossible. At around 2.30am after four hours of silence and darkness on board, the driver having returned from a triumphant restroom stop, decides to blast Hare Krishna music. The recording sounds as if it's 50 years old, yet the elderly singer screeching at the top of her lungs is anything but feeble. Nobody on board dares to say anything, but simply toss and turn with impatience. There's a sense of silent frustration all round, but as I can never sleep on buses anyway, my sympathy is non-existent (welcome to my world). After forty minutes of what feels like the same song on repeat, the surrounding madness engulfs me and I'm no longer able to stifle uproarious laughter. I get a few frazzled looks, but it's clear to me that everyone else missed the joke. Where else but India?!


A budding local crop =D

While the journey may be exhausting, rest assured - it's worth it. Once you step off the bus you'll lose all negativity, as well as any prior sense of significance, when you first look at the surrounding scenery. Instead of nearby towns like Shimla, where the town is built in to and on top of the mountain, Manali is situated between the mountains, making the frosty foothills of the Himalayas stand out even further. Right off the bat - Manali does the unthinkable :)

Famous for more than just great hash, Manali is famed for being an adventure sport capital. On any given day (weather permitting) the offerings include; paragliding, trekking, mountain biking and white water rafting. If you find yourself staring at the impressive mountain scenery for long enough, you might just spot some of the many 'gliders' who frequent these parts. Paragliding is a remarkably affordable activity in nearby Solang Valley, with prices determined by the flight's duration ($10 - $50 USD).

Anyone can paraglide, it's done as a double act, with a tandem pilot operating the controls.You can just switch your thoughts off, and hope for the best! We set off at a running pace, stumbling frequently on both large rocks and small boulders underfoot.
"Run! No stop, no matter what!" yells Raju, my 'co-pilot.' Running on thin air is a tough act, but something you'll have to master when paragliding. The surrounding landscape is stunning, looking like a mix of Lord of the Rings and the National Geographic channel. There are snow-capped Himalayan mountains, with the foreground comprised of tall pine trees.

It happens in an instant, one which I thought would land me face first in a heap on the ground. There's an overwhelming feeling of bliss the moment your ascent begins, perhaps due to the stress and tension felt only moments earlier. Soaring like a bird through a picturesque mountain valley, my head is at long last empty of thoughts. I am at peace with the world.

Closer to the ground, but still terrifying in its own way is white water rafting. In a taxi on my way to the nearby town of Kullu, I spot a sign by the side of the road offering rafting trips. I notice a couple more so I ask my driver how easy it would be to do, he stops the car immediately in an excited manner, and before we even negotiate a price, he happily appoints himself as my official photographer.

The captain of my raft, or 'pilot' as he liked to be called, is definitely of the Kamikaze variety. He chooses to plummet over waterfalls for the hell of it. We nearly flip the raft several times, and as such, collective gasps and sighs of relief were common among crew members. We manage to avoid falling out of the boat, but walk away drenched as if we'd swam the 7km journey, rather than paddled through it.

The key to enjoying Manali is to escape the new and embrace the old - quite literally. Old Manali is only 2kms from Manali's bus stand, but a world away in every respect. Come at the right time of year (October) and you'll find you almost have the place to yourself, save for a few other like minded westerners. Even the locals seem to pack up and leave around this time of the year, but there exists a small window of opportunity for Manali perfection. You can still find all the adventure sports, as well as local horticultural products - just at heavily discounted rates!

* An edited version of this article was published on TouristAttitude, click here to check it out.

Himalayan Homestay

2010-12-22T11:13:00.000-08:00

After the universal drinking game known as 'SCULL,' I am invited back to the house of a new acquaintance in a nearby village. As an avid fan of 'Banged Up Abroad,' I'm always on the lookout for anything dodgy or suspect, but as I watched these two clowns dancing with the bar staff and smiling constantly, I decided to take my chances. I jump at the chance to leave Shimla too, as I've been cooped up in my hotel room due to injury. Going against the wishes of people back home, as well as the locals in Varanasi, I had bathed in the Ganges river with the pilgrims. While it had been a wonderful experience, somewhat supernatural even, I was paying the price for it weeks later, drunk and delirious with fever, on a long walk to a little known village on the outskirts of Shimla - with two drunken fools for company.

Channing was clearly the Krishna (think Casanova) of the duo, but it was me they used as bait for attracting local girls. I'm not sure if it's just a cultural difference, or a specific case, but it seemed to me like these two could not take a hint! The only things that seemed to deter them in their pursuit, were the words 'policeman' and 'call,' but even then it was hit and miss. When they weren't spouting bad Hindi pick-up lines, they were provoking members of the armed forces into often violent debates. I had no idea what was going on half the time, but I had a front row seat to the madness. I wondered long and hard about where this walk would take me, but after an hour's walk, we reached the house of Deepak's family before sunset.

The complex itself is four stories tall, and from the outside resembles a construction site. I have my reservations, but once I step inside the doors, I find both the living room and kitchen to be meticulously clean and immaculately presented. Almost immediately after setting foot inside, Deepak's younger sister is sent scurrying out the door in search of coffee. Unlike the majority of India, Deepak's household are coffee drinkers in an effort to combat Mata Ji's (Mother) low blood pressure. Like everything else on the subcontinent, coffee is heavily 'Indianized,' but it's not a bad thing. A delicate collection of spices is added, giving it a sweet, earthy and well rounded flavor.

Indian hospitality is famous, and just like my time in Bhita - I assume the role of evening entertainment. I am bombarded with questions, but not the usual onslaught of 'do you see lots of kangaroos' that Australians abroad are often subjected to. I'm asked about politics, music, morality, social order, and of course - marriage and children. My vegetarian declaration is met with murmured Hindi and downright astonishment.

"You must stay for dinner then!" declares Radhika, the eldest daughter of the family and apprentice veterinarian.

In true Indian spirit, no expense was being spared for the 'gora' (think cracker) who has come for dinner. As Mata Ji prepares the feast inside, Radhika offers to give me a quick tour of her village. After we leave her family's complex, she stops beside a decaying pile of broken-down bricks to fish out a pair of sticks.

"Here," she says, handing me one. "You will need one of these."

"Why?" I ask.

"If not for the monkeys, then for the street dogs."

After shooing away some mischievous macaques, Radhika takes me to her favorite chai stand, perched on top of a mountain, by the side of a winding road. Away from her mother's prying eyes, we are allowed to indulge in a little masala chai (spiced tea). Chai stands can be found all over India, and each purchase you make is like playing lucky dip, as every vendor uses different ingredients. Sometimes you'll find it overly spiced with ginger, and other times topped off with curdling milk, but this time the vendor gets it just right.

As tea was contraband in the household, we sip from our clay pots and sit by the side of the road to watch the setting sun. We watch it slowly disappear between the jagged peaks of two mountaintops, leaving streaks of sunlight across the mountain valleys below. As the aroma of spices from the chai wallah's stand wafts steadily in our direction, I think to myself that this recipe could be centuries old, and like the surrounding landscape - unchanged for generations. Drinks finished, Radhika reaches over to grab the cup from my hands. She smiles at me, like she's hiding a secret, and smashes the little clay cup into smithereens.

"Why did you do that?" I ask, looking over her shoulder to see if the chai wallah has noticed.

"We can use them only once, then it is returned back to Earth," she says solemnly. "Just like our hearts."

I decide not to ask her if she means physically or emotionally, but I nod my head anyway and stare into space for a while. Walking back towards the house, we hear the unmistakable chuckle of Deepak, who has been sent out in search of us - dinner is ready :)

* This article was featured on TouristAttitude on the 21st of December, 2010. Click here to check it out.