Globe Stompers

The resurrection of Globe Stompers

2013-12-22T21:30:00.001-05:00

Hello there. Miss me? I've missed you. Sorry I haven't been in touch lately. To be honest, I settled back in New York for a while and recently moved to San Francisco.

That doesn't mean I stopped Globe Stomping during these years, I just took a break from writing about my adventures. Let's see, I visited Colombia, Mexico, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Italy, Austria, Czech Republic, and travelled all over the US. At some point I'll sit down and post about these trips.

In the meantime, I'm currently in Asia and I figured now is a good time to resurrect my Globe Stomping adventures.

If you want to follow my photos, I'll be posting regularly to Instagram @jwbyer.

All my best,

Scuba Diving Honduras: Utila is where the backpackers go

2011-07-16T17:41:00.023-04:00

I had first heard about the islands of Roatan and Utila back in 2003 when a former boss and Dive enthusiast told me how close they were to the United States. Great reefs, affordable accommodations, and cheap dives.

Since getting my dive master certification in Thailand a couple years back, I needed to make sure that I was diving about every 6 months or so in order to keep my skills up to date. I did some research on flights and figured it would be really easy to take off for a week dive trip to Roatan and Utila. Continental Airlines flies direct to the island of Roatan several days a week, and also to San Pedro Sula on the mainland of Honduras.

A couple of friends have made the trek via San Pedro Sula. A good cheap option is to catch a morning bus from the Central Terminal in San Pedro Sula to La Ceiba on the coast. It takes about three and a half hours on the direct and private Hedman Alas bus (approx $23 USD). You can also take a local Directo bus for about $5 that is a little slower. From La Ceiba, you can catch ferry aboard the Utila Princess which takes about an hour to get to Utila (two departures daily and approx $21 USD).

I decided to fly direct from Houston to Roatan, so that I could dive both islands. The only problem with this option is that you can't get to Utila directly from Roatan. I needed to take the Galaxy Wave ferry from Roatan to La Ceiba (two departures daily and approx $21 USD), and then change to the Utila Princess. It adds an hour and fifteen minutes to the trip (plus transfer/wait time), but it's not that bad.

In Roatan I spent a night and a day in the area of West End, not to be confused with the more upscale West Bay. This is where the more affordable housing is located, everything is walkable, and there are a good number of dive shops and restaurants to choose from. Most of the dive shops on Roatan and Utila offer accommodation for divers and this is usually the best and cheapest option. I chose Native Sons for two morning dives (about $25 a dive) and got a nice private room for $20 USD for a night. Both Roatan and Utila's reefs are protected as marine parks where a small daily fee must be paid for diving. Roatan is supposed to have the better preserved dive sites. I enjoyed both islands and found the reefs to be in decent shape, but lacking an abundance of marine life (although the area is famous for its whale sharks). Then again, I've been spoiled by diving Sipidan. I think this is due to overfishing in the area, even if the reefs are supposed to be protected. Unfortunately it's something I've encountered all over the world. Fishermen have been fishing these reefs for generations and it's their livelihood.

After two morning ferries from Roatan, I made it to Utila in the afternoon. Utila is a perfect backpacker town. No cars are allowed on the island, and you can walk/bike everywhere with ease. Accommodations, food, and drinks are cheap, and the diving is probably the best value in the Eastern Hemisphere, comparable to Koh Tao in Thailand. Some might call the island a scuba factory, but my feeling is that it offers travelers a chance to become certified divers without breaking the bank. You can get your PADI or NAUI open water certification plus four nights accommodation in the dorms for under $300 USD. A steal if you ask me.

It can be a little overwhelming when first getting to Utila. There are tons of dive operators and accommodations to choose from. My friend Alex from Spain recommended Alton's Dive Center. Alex trained me as a dive master and I trusted his judgement since he worked for Alton's as a DM the previous year. Other options on the island include Utila Dive Center and Cross Creek Dive Center (awesome lodging across the creek!). From the moment I got to Alton's I knew I would have a great week. The owner Mitch was extremely welcoming and generous. I signed up for a week of fun dives mixed with my wreck specialty certification. I paid about $25 or so for fun dives, and a little more to get my wreck specialty, which included two days of learning how to navigate around sunken ships safely. My private room (although sparse with a shared bathroom) was as whopping $10 USD per night ($5 if I wanted a dorm bed). Except for having about 3 different instructors take me through my wreck certification, I had a great time diving with Alton's. All the instructors and dive masters were friendly and I was able to get visit some good sites for the week.

If you're looking for beaches, these are not the islands for you. Actually, if you're not really into diving at all, I might steer clear of Utila. There aren't really any beaches for laying around, and most dive centers have docks set up with hammocks and areas for chilling out, reading, and sun bathing. Aside from diving and relaxing, there isn't much else to do on the island itself. If you do find yourself visiting, then definitely take four days to get your open water certification. Two other must do's while visiting is a fish dinner at RJ's (across from Alton's) and drinks at Treetanic, a bar that is perched up in the canopy of several massive trees. It's like drinking in a huge outdoor tree house, and definitely one of the coolest bars I've visited on my travels. Ah, I wish I was there right now.

Here is a link to my photos of Diving Utila and Roatan.

The Adventures In Travel Expo: Day 2

2009-10-13T14:24:00.012-04:00

The second day at The Adventures in Travel Expo proved to be just as entertaining as the first. There seemed to be less attendees than the previous day, but the guest speakers drew some large crowds. In addition to checking out more exhibitors, which included tour operators and tourism boards, I was able to sit in on lectures by Tony Wheeler, Zac Sunderland, and Patricia Schultz.

Tony Wheeler co-founded the Lonely Planet publishing empire with his wife Maureen back in the early 1970's. It's a pretty amazing story documented in their book Unlikely Destinations: The Lonely Planet Story (which he autographed for me...thanks Tony). His lecture was a mix of the Lonely Planet's modest beginnings (their first trip from England to Australia via the silk road), plus additional trips with his family in the nineteen eighties, and what he has been doing more recently. I was pretty amazed to find out that in 1994, Tony and Maureen traveled across the US, and created what was to become one of the first travel blogs. They sent daily emails to Tim O'Reilly, founder of Web 2.0, who then posted them online. Some really cool trips that Tony has done in the last several years include:

The Plymouth - Banjul Challenge in 2007. Tony and Maureen drove a tiny used Mitsubishi hatchback car from Plymouth, England, all the way to Banjul, Gambia. The event is for charity and all cars who make it to the finish line, are then auctioned off. Their car which was purchased for $700, was sold for over $1000.
T he Soyuz rocket launch from Kazakhstan. This is where Russia launches their spacecraft, and as a spectator, you can get within several hundred yards of the site. Go Russia and your lack of safety regulations! Tony showed a video clip he took and it was pretty amazing. For $30 million USD, six months of cosmonaut training, and some language courses in Russian, you too can fly into outer space for two weeks. This is where I need your help to make Globe Stompers as big as Lonely Planet, so I can do this at some point in the future. Although, Tony did not fly, he just watched the launch.
The Tour d'Afrique bike race from Cairo to Cape Town. Tony rode with the Lonely Planet team who took four months to complete the course. The riders rotated the roster every two weeks.

What was one of Tony's favorite trips over the years? Visit Russia and spend a day just riding the subway. Only in Moscow can you find stations with beautiful mosaics and chandeliers. It was also interesting to find out that Tony and Maureen are only partially involved with Lonely Planet publishing, but are very active with their charity organization called the Planet Wheeler Foundation, which runs projects in the Mekong Delta, Africa, Sri Lanka, and Afghanistan.

You may have heard that on July 16th, 2009, Zac Sunderland at age seventeen, became the youngest person to sail solo around the world. It's amazing to think that Zac, who still has three classes to go before graduating high school, has experienced more in thirteen months than most people do in their entire lives. His trip was one of the most amazing journeys, and I was captivated the whole time he spoke. His tale included dodging pirates, fixing a broken boat multiple times, and weathering massive storms, so to speak. He's currently training for an Mount Everest expedition, and will be base jumping off the Golden Gate bridge in two weeks. I'm getting excited for his upcoming documentary, which is currently being edited down from over six hundred hours of footage taken from multiple cameras on his boat.

Patricia Schultz is the author of the best selling book 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. This book was a staple of ours before Julie and I set off on our around the world trip. I am happy to say that I've been to many of these destinations, although I still have a ton to go before I die. Here are some tips that Patricia shared with the audience:

Rule of thumb, avoid travel destinations with airports nearby. Go further out and you'll have a more authentic experience with less tourists.
Home Exchange is a good site where you can swap your apartment/house with someone else in another area or country. Just like the movie The Holiday with Cameron Diaz and Kate Winslet.
One of the top three experiences in life should be an African safari. Travel to Namibia which is a new adventure capital.
Take the new express train in China, which travels from either Beijing or Shanghai, all the way to Lhasa in Tibet. The compartments even have oxygen to help you breathe at altitude.
Bhutan and Myanmar are two must see destinations.

There was a lot to see at the expo, and in between the guest lectures I found time to visit with some of the exhibitors. Here is a brief list of some interesting companies and things that are going on:

1. Museyon Guides has come up with a concept that pairs interests with travel. Check out their Music + Travel, and Film + Travel guides.

2. Contiki, a tour company specializing in trips for 18-35 year-olds (I just make the cut on this), has some fun new trips coming up for Summer 2010. I asked Jennifer Dimucci, a sales manager with the company, how one becomes a trip leader? Out of hundreds of applicants, they only choose a couple new leaders each year. It's a mix of luck and previous experience. Do you have what it takes to be a trip leader? Check out their jobs section to apply, cross some fingers and toes, find a four leaf clover, and start building up some karma points.

3. Cactus is an organization that arranges language trips abroad. It's way more fun to learn Italian in Rome, than online or listening to CD's.

4. Travel Daddy is a social networking site where you can find activity buddies while on the road. I tend to meet people in local hostels, but if you had a larger trip planned and wanted to find people ahead of time, this is a good way to do it.

5. If you are an adventurer with a some money saved up, why not take a cruise to the North Pole. Expedition Cruises run two week trips which give you anywhere from twelve to twenty four hours on the North Pole. They do not guarantee that you will find Santa Claus, but you can try.

6. My favorite booth was that of the Jamaican dog sled team. Yes, you read that correctly! The movie Cool Runnings brought us the story of the Jamaican bobsled team, and now Newton Marshall will compete in the 2010 Iditarod trail sled dog race across Alaska. I'm from Canada, and I don't even like the cold. Good luck Newton and team Jamaica.

I really enjoyed my two days at the expo, meeting tour operators, tourism agencies, and listening to stories from guest lecturers. I will definitely attend the event next year when it comes to town, but right now I have my eye set on something bigger. Next week, Quebec will play host to the Adventure Travel World Summit. This looks amazing.

The Adventures In Travel Expo: Day 1

2009-10-10T18:08:00.011-04:00

The tag line for the two day Adventures in Travel Expo is "The Show For Real Travelers." What exactly makes a real traveler? Is it number of countries visited, exotic locations, travel style? The aim of the show is to bring together consumers and companies of the travel trade, ranging from trip operators to tourism bureaus. Throw in some celebrity speakers, and it becomes a go to place for anyone who is interested in travel, both domestic and abroad. Armed with a camera and press pass, I decided that it was worth checking out. The show will be at New York City's Javitz Center through October 11th, and will then be moving to Chicago, Los Angeles, Washington D.C., and Seattle.

The show is a mix of everything to do with the travel industry. The event space is broken down into geographic areas such as Africa, Latin America, Asia/South Pacific, and the Caribbean. There are tourism bureaus from countries such as Thailand, Mexico, Malaysia, and Israel. Then there are the numerous tour operators, airlines, magazines, book publishers, and even a mini rock wall if you feel like getting a bird's eye view of the event.

You could easily spend a full day here. I spent more than six hours speaking to the numerous exhibitors that peaked my interest, and I only covered about half the show. Then again, I'm addicted to travel and everything looks fun to me. I'll be profiling some of the exhibitors in the future, but here are the highlights from day one at the Adventures in Travel Expo:

1. G.A.P Adventures has launched a partnership with the Discovery Channel, and has created Discovery Adventures which are new trips based on featured destinations from the Discovery Channel.

2. Arthur Frommer, founder of Frommer's Travel Guides, shared his tips on budget travel. He spoke about Exploritas and ElderHostel. If you're looking for mature trips that combine grandparent and children travel, this could be a good option. Untours for un-tourists, is where you can book furnished apartments in major cities around the world. Now is a good time to visit China on the cheap with Chinaspree. Ho Chi Minh City is one of the cheapest places to live as an ex-patriot. Iceland, Ireland, and Italy (dubbed the Three I's), are the latest destinations in budget travel. Take advantage of Eurofly for cheap flights to Italy. The Caribbean and Mexico are practically giving away package holidays this time of year. Vacmart is a good place to check for specials. And my favorite special, the U.S. Virgin Islands are promoting twenty five cent per night hotel rooms, in honor of a new commemorative quarter by the U.S. Mint. Go to bookit to take advantage of this. Not only did Arthur give an informative talk, he also signed a copy of his new book for me, conveniently titled Ask Arthur Frommer: And Travel Better, Cheaper, Smarter.

3. Holly Morris, writer, travel show host, and producer, spoke about her work with the Globe Trekker series, Adventure Divas, and her favorite places to visit. Funny enough, one of these locations is the Cascade Range in North America.

4. I took a trip back in time by visiting with the guys from Witch's Rock Surf Camp. Located in Tamarindo, Costa Rica, this is the place where I originally learned how to surf. The camp has expanded and they are now running surf trips to other countries. If you've always wanted to learn how to surf, and have a week's vacation to spare, this is the place to go.

5. AFAR is hands down the coolest travel magazine on the market. I just read their premier issue cover to cover, and I'm hooked. It's a bi-monthly publication that has profiled travel in a new way. The one section that caught my eye is Spin the Globe, whereby they ship a writer off to a new destination unknown to them. It makes for a good story, trust me.

6. The online hostel booking site Hostels Club, is running two specials at the moment. If you are a citizen of either the US, Canada, Australia, or New Zealand, and traveling to Europe, go to www.hostelsclub.com/strongdollar, and you'll only be charged in US dollars for the Euro equivalent. Meaning, a dorm bed that costs fifteen Euros, will only cost you fifteen USD. If you go to www.hostelsclub.com/mytrip, you'll only pay a one time registration fee for life as long as you continue to book with the same email address.

If you can't make it to the Adventures in Travel Expo in New York, or one of the other cities on their tour, you can see a list of the exhibitors online. Check back tomorrow for a report about day two at the show.

Hej Hej Stockholm

2009-08-20T13:20:00.001-04:00

I've wanted to visit Sweden for quite some time now. Maybe it goes back to my childhood, loving the Muppets and of course the Swedish Chef. It could also be that I grew up in Toronto, with one of the first Ikeas outside of Sweden, and my childhood bedroom was filled with furniture that had names such as Malm and Ektorp, which seemed to come from a world away. Okay, so everyone is really, really good looking, including the fast food attendants at Max (much better than McDonald's), but the main reason I wanted to visit, is that I've met so many nice Swedes while traveling, that I figured a country full of friendly people had to be a great place to check out.

While I was getting my dive master certification in Thailand, I met Andreas and Nicole, a very cool couple from Stockholm. They were getting certified to dive, and I was assisting the instructor on the course. We shared a crazy twenty four hours of diving and partying on the island of Ko Phi Phi, and I figured it would be fun to go visit them in their native city. I was already in Europe, and although Stockholm is quite far from Rome, a flight on Ryan Air cost me approximately Sixty Euros, so I couldn't really pass up the opportunity. Ryan Air really is one big flying bus, no perks, and tons of hidden fees. But if you can master the art of booking on the cheap days, fly with only a carry-on bag, and print your boarding pass ahead of time, it's worth it for the price.

I ended up staying at the Best Hostel Old Town (great name, right?) in Gamla Stan, meaning the old town in Swedish. The location could not have been better, as it was right on the water with amazing views. Gamla Stan is situated on a tiny island, in the middle of the river which separates the shopping area of Norrmalm to the north from the cool area of Sodermalm to the south, with its trendy neighborhood of SoFo (South of Folkungagatan). The old town has beautiful cobblestone lane ways, shops, restaurants, cafes, and the Royal Palace. You can pretty much walk the whole area in less than an hour, it's that small.

The Best Hostel Old Town is in a very old, but recently renovated building. The place was so big, with tons of rooms, several kitchens, and multiple floors. The layout was strange with many stairways, that you really did need directions on finding your room. I was happy once I checked in. I booked myself into a seven person dorm, and I was the only one staying in the room for several nights. The place was clean, modern, had fantastic beds, a good kitchen, free Internet, and for $30 USD a night, it was a big upgrade from the horrible hostels in Rome.

My plan of four days in Stockholm quickly turned into a week. The weather was unbelievable and everyone was in such a good mood, I just couldn't leave. The days were sunny, and I mean sunny. About twenty hours worth of sunshine in the summer months. It was really strange to be out drinking on a terrace at 11 pm and have the sun just starting to set. It's even stranger to get out of a bar at 3 am and have the sun starting to rise. I could only imagine what it must be like in winter when it's reversed and you have twenty hours of darkness, plus cold temperatures. Apparently people can get pretty grumpy, and I don't blame them. The city reminded me a little of Montreal, since it's so cold in the winter, that when the springtime comes, everyone is out enjoying the fresh air. In Stockholm, everyone rides bikes. The lanes are great, and it's such the norm that commuting is easy. One thing I highly recommend is getting yourself a three day rental from the tourist information office or kiosks around the city for $10 USD. You can pick up and drop off bikes at various points around Stockholm, not a bad deal at all.

Nicole and Andreas were amazing hosts and it was so great to see them after about six months. Nicole is a fashion designer and Andreas is an actor, and they made sure my week was filled with a mix of sightseeing and partying with the who's who of Stockholm. It was fun to meet all these great people and I now have lots of new Swedish friends. Alex, who is also another actor, was gracious enough to let me stay with him after I was tired of my hostel. Nizar, who has the site Cool Stockholm, put on a massive 35 hour party at Bern's, one of the hottest clubs in the city. That made sure my Friday and Saturday nights were set. We also spent an evening enjoying the large terrace at Mosebacke, a really cool beer garden. It's a great setting, but expensive burgers at $22 a pop really put a dent in my wallet. I just want to put prices in perspective for any traveler to Sweden. This country isn't cheap, and since they tax the hell out of liquor, a night out on the town could potentially kill your backpacking budget. Another good outdoor area for food and drinks is Medborgarplatsen, which has a huge square and is located by the subway stop with the same name.

A unique spot which is also worth mentioning, is the ThaiBoat beach bar and restaurant. Since we were all reminiscing about Thailand, Nicole and Andreas thought it would be fun to take me to a large boat floating on the river, which had a little man made beach on board, and served food and drinks. We ended up going twice during my week since it's a really great restaurant, decked out in Thai fashion.

Besides touring around the old town and visiting the Royal Palace, I walked the shopping streets of Drottning, Biblioteksgatan, and Gotgatan, and also checked out the bohemian boutiques and cafes in SoFo. In addition to recommending the fashion boutique Acne, where Nicole is a designer, I would also check out Solo which is a fantastic store with the trendiest labels in Sweden.

Just outside of Stockholm, there is one of the World's most breathtaking archipelagos of tiny islands. I was highly encouraged to take a day trip, and I'm glad I did. Since you could literally spend days touring around the islands, I chose to travel an hour by ferry to the quaint town of Vaxholm, which is a popular summer destination for Swedish tourists. It is a tiny town, with little shops, and a several public beaches for swimming. The scenery along the way was breathtaking, particularly all the small islands with private homes, and this would be the place to live if I was working in Stockholm. I would be married to a supermodel, own Ikea, and just commute to the city center by Jet Ski. Hey, can't one dream?

My last night in the city was spent Bar-be-cuing in a tiny park in Sodermalm. I was lucky to cross paths with my friend Hannah who I had met rock climbing in New York. She had just moved back to Sweden and introduced me to yet another friendly group of Swedes, who invited me to try out their Swedish grill. My friend Scott, also put me in touch with his friends Lars and Jennie, who took me out on the town and got me to try Herring (Strommings Rule in Swedish) from a street vendor. It was amazing, and I highly recommend it. They served it in a pita with mashed potatoes, and cole slaw. Strange, but so tasty. I swear, everyone in that country is awesome. I would consider moving there, shacking up with a Swedish girl, and living the Scandinavian dream...if only the winters weren't so cold and dark. It's okay, I still love you Stockholm.

Here are photos from my week in Stockholm, to better understand why I love this city.

To get a little idea of the crazy partying that went on during the 35 hour event at Bern's, check out this video clip.

A Crazy Travel Deal From JetBlue

2009-08-14T13:35:00.006-04:00

For all those travelers coming to the US in September/October, and for those of you who live in North America, JetBlue airways has announced a crazy deal. Get this, for $599 you can purchase an All-You-Can-Jet pass, valid from September 8th to October 8th. This price includes all taxes for US flights (excluding Puerto Rico), but not for International travel. The pass is on sale through August 21st. Sweet deal, right? I dare you to take a flight a day for thirty days.

I am a recent Continental Airlines convert, but my second airline love is JetBlue, and you can't beat this deal. So for all you unemployed people out there with a little savings, take advantage of your free time.

Rome - One Bella of a City

2009-08-04T23:59:00.004-04:00

For some strange reason, I wasn't very excited to visit Rome on this trip. I'm guessing it's because I didn't have a great experience the last time I was here in the summer of 2000. At that time I was backpacking Europe with my old college girlfriend, and from what I remember, Rome was hot, the hostels sucked, and the food we ate tasted like it was straight from a Chef Boyardee can. Nine years later, Rome is still hot and humid in the summertime, it is crowded with way too many tourists, the hostels are pretty crappy, but somehow I didn't care this time around. Maybe it's because I've been to hotter and more crowded cities since then, but I had a fantastic time with my six days in the city.

I left the Amalfi Coast, and my family, and headed to Rome to get some much needed solo backpacker time. I had just spent several weeks with my mother and father, and as much as I love them, that's just too much time without a day off. The plan was for them to come meet me in two days, where we would celebrate my mother's 60th birthday in style. My sister Rachel was flying in from New York, and it would be the first time in several years that we were all together again.

The train ride from Salerno took about two hours on the express train, and I arrived at Rome's Termini Station at around noon. Termini is the main transport hub in the city, and also the best area to stay in my opinion. You can walk to almost any point of interest, and if you need to take the subway, all the trains run through Termini. Another great thing about the area is that food is pretty good and cheap. You can get a three course price fixed meal for around ten to fifteen Euros, including wine. My favorite is the Ristorante Il Condor at #50 Via Manin Daniele. There are some serious shady (or "dodgy" as the Brits like to say) parts around Termini, but if you're not out too late, and keep your wits about you, then it seemed safe to me. Plus, I always think that these types of neighborhoods add character and even possibly a good story to a vacation. I mean, if you wanted safe, you could just book your next vacation to a Club Med resort, but is that really living life?

I ended up staying at the Rome Korean Hostel on Via dei Mille. I know what you're already thinking. Korean Hostel? I just figured that a Korean hostel had to be somewhat clean, and maybe I could get some Bi Bim Bap! Most of the Rome hostel reviews on Hostel Bookers and Hostel World seemed to be bad, and this one was somewhat good. Not great, but good. It turned out that the hostel was pretty bad. Online it said they had air conditioning, free pasta dinners, and lockers. When I arrived, they couldn't find my reservation. They actually didn't even have a computer at the hostel to check reservations! But the day attendant from Sri Lanka (not Korea) was nice and very accommodating. My room didn't have air conditioning, they only do pasta dinners on Saturday nights, and in addition to no lockers the dorm rooms were un-lockable, and the main hostel entrance never seemed to have an attendant around. I spoke to other backpackers, and it sounds like most of the hostels in Rome are similar. The hostels are incorporated into residential apartment buildings and all claim to have amenities that don't really exist. It's like one big joke on the backpacker community...ha. Maybe I'm getting better at dealing with these bumps on the backpacker road, but after a couple days, I didn't seem to mind. It was hot during the day and a cold water shower was actually kind of refreshing.

In contrast to my hostel, when my parents and sister arrived several days later, we checked into a real hotel, and it was like night and day. The Hotel Selene is also near Termini Station, but is in a much nicer area, around the corner from Piazza della Repubblica, and across from the Teatro dell' Opera (Opera house) on Via del Viminale. Okay, so rooms here run a hundred Euros a night, compared to a dorm bed at twenty Euros, but if you can splurge, go for it. The hotel also had the most amazing buffet breakfast that was included in the room price, and I might have even eaten a hundred Euros worth of food each morning. Hey, sightseeing in Rome will make you hungry!

I was recently asked by a friend of mine who is heading to Rome, how much time do you need and what would you see? Since I had six days I could take my time, but the funny thing is that I basically saw all the major tourist attractions in two days. So, it's up to you. Two days is the minimum you would need to see Rome, but three to four would make it more enjoyable. So this post is dedicated to my friend Jess in Argentina as she's heading to Rome shortly.

Without further ado, here is what I would do and see if you only had two to three days in Rome:

Day 1: Visit the Roman Forum, Palantine Hill, and Colosseum.

- Head out from Termini Station and walk to Piazza della Republica. The piazza is more of a traffic circle with the nicest McDonald's I've ever seen, but the buildings are gorgeous. If you have time, check out the Santa Maria degli Angeli church. It's really pretty inside.

- Walk down the Via Nazionale until you come to Trajan's Market and Trajan's column. This is the first of many ancient sites, so get ready. From here you can also see remains of the Forum of Trajan, the Forum of Augustus, and the Forum of Caesar.

- Walk across to the Piazza Venezia and visit the massive Monument to the first king of Italy, Victor Emanuele II. The monument is truly amazing, and gives such a nice view over the Roman Forum, all the way to the Colosseum.

- If you exit from the back of the monument, this will take you next to the Capitoline Hill, and the Piazza Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo in the 16th century, and said to be the most perfect piazza in all of Italy. The Capitoline Museums are also located in the square, and are not to be missed.

- Head to the Roman Forum and Palantine Hill. The ticket cost is about thirteen Euros, and also includes entrance to the Colosseum. I would buy the joint ticket at the Forum instead of at the Colosseum. It saved me tons of time as the line to buy it was much shorter. I recommend visiting the Palantine Hill closer to sunset, since the view over the Forum and other parts of Rome is amazing.

- Last stop is the famous Colosseum, just next door to the Roman Forum and Palantine Hill. Make sure you go up to the top so you get a nice view down into the chambers that were once beneath the arena floor, and which housed the exotic animals and slave gladiators who fought them.

- Finish the day with the best meal in Rome, only a five minute walk from the Colosseum. We celebrated my mother's birthday at Ristorante La Piazzetta (tel 06 6991640) #23/a on Via della Buon Consiglio. It has a buffet antipasta table with the most amazing dishes. You could probably make a meal of just this, although their mains are to die for. Seriously, the best meal in Rome.

Day 2: The Vatican, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, and a whole lot more.

- Get up early. I mean early. You want to be at the Vatican Museum when it opens up. It really is an amazing collection of art, and as much as I hate being herded in like cattle with thousands of other tourists, it's worth it. Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel is breathtaking, but there is so much more to the museum than just this. You could really spend a whole day in here and just break the surface. I only lasted three hours.

- From the Vatican Museum, walk to St. Peter's Square and Basilica. I had tried to visit the Basilica twice in my six days in Rome, but I never got in. The first time I had a Swiss knife in my pack and the security guards didn't like that. On the second time, the Pope was giving his weekly Wednesday speech to the huge crowd gathered in the square. I had visited the Basilica in 2000, so I wasn't too bummed, and seeing the Pope was pretty cool.

- Walk across the Ponte Sant' Angelo with the statues of the ten angels.

- Go for some much needed lunch at the best Pizzeria in Rome. La Focaccia is located at #11 Via della Pace, just around the corner from the Piazza Navona.

- Check out Piazza Navona. My favorite Piazza in Rome, which has the famous Bernini fountains.

- Next, head to the Pantheon, my favorite building in all of Rome. You'll see why once you get there. It was originally built by Marcus Agrippa as a temple to all the gods of Rome, and still has the original columns in place at the entrance. You feel dwarfed by the size of the columns and building in general. I was there on a day when it rained, and the water came straight down through the central oculus that is open to the sky.

- From here, head to the Trevi Fountain which is the largest Baroque fountain in Italy. I visited the fountain every day while I was in Rome, and even spent two hours at night just staring at it. Be warned that it's a mad house with tourists at all hours of the day and night. Everyone wants a picture of themselves tossing a coin over their shoulders into the fountain for good luck. I'm still waiting for my wish. But I'm patient. Oh yeah, don't forget to try some amazing homemade gelato from San Crispino which is around the corner at #42 Via della Panetteria.

- If you can time it right, head to the Spanish Steps and the Piazza di Spagna for sunset. The view from the top is gorgeous, and hopefully you'll get a nice view of the sun setting over St. Peter's Basilica in the background. If you're into designer fashion, check out Via Condotti just next to the steps.

- It's party time. There are numerous pub crawls that take place around Rome. They are cheesy, and I was one of the oldest guys on the crawl, but I still had fun. I joined the Spanish Steps Pub Crawl, but I think they're pretty much all the same. Open bar for an hour, free pizza, and then you go bar hopping for a couple hours. If this isn't your scene and you want to do what the locals do, head to the Campo de Fiori and enjoy a bottle of wine in the piazza with some friends. It's much cheaper and more European. From here, head to the amazing bars and restaurants in Trastevere. Trastevere is probably my favorite area in all of Rome. If I had to make a comparison, it's like the East Village in New York. Packed with young people, good food, and a fantastic nightlife. Maybe I'll move here one day. On your way to Trastevere, check out the original Jewish ghetto (where the term came from), with a beautiful synagogue. Then continue walking over the Ponte Fabricio, with the little island, it's well worth it.

- Some other things you could see as well are the Piazza del Popolo, the church and fountains of San Carlo Quattro Fontane, and the Villa Medici.

Okay, so if you're not exhausted by reading all of this, then you'll definitely be exhausted by doing all these things on the itinerary.

By day six in Rome I was going stir crazy, so I jumped on a plane for Stockholm. Hej Hej Stockholm, but that's another story.

Here are my photos, Rome 1 and Rome 2, from the amazing city.

The Walk of The Gods

2009-07-24T15:30:00.000-04:00

Most people come to the Amalfi Coast to relax on the beaches, eat fantastic food, and stroll down the cobblestone walkways of the most picturesque little towns. There are networks of foot trails that have linked these towns for centuries, and if you get up high enough, you will see some of the most stunning views in the world. It's the hike from the town of Agerola to Positano, that really blew my mind. The famous hike has even been given a name "Sentiero Degli Dei," which translates to “The Walk of the Gods.” I had some high expectations, but it really lived up to the name. I felt as if I was walking through heaven.

My family and I caught an early morning bus ride from the coastal town of Amalfi, and took the winding roads high up to Agerola, situated on a plateau and surrounded by hills. Agerola was still waking up when we arrived, but we followed the well marked signs that pointed us to the trailhead. I should mention that we're an interesting looking family when we hike. My mother usually walks with a parasol, and struts out in front of us all. I actually think the parasol is a fantastic item, that has kind of lost fashion over the last 100 or so years. But, it really does keep you cool in the hot sun. My father looks like he's on safari, with a wide brimmed hat and long sleeve shirt, taking photos from the back like a tourist at Disney World. I don't blame him. I love photographing every beautiful thing I see, and on this hike, I was snapping a picture as I came around every bend.

The hike is supposed to take about three hours if you keep moving at a quick pace. I usually like to hike at a good walking speed, but it took us almost five hours to reach Positano, and I wasn't the least bit surprised. We stopped to take photos, eat some snacks, and just enjoy the stunning vistas high over the towns and sea below us. We passed by all these little houses that could only be reached by foot. Could you imagine hiking to and from your house whenever you needed to buy food? It's not like walking to the corner store to purchase some milk and bread. These people have to hike up and down some pretty steep trails. The houses had vineyards and gardens. The one thing that really caught my eye were all the wild flowers. They were a mix of whites, yellows, bright purples, and reds, and were a nice splash of color along the lush green landscape. Did I mention the houses had a better view than my old Fifth Avenue office in Manhattan? I'm sure the stress to view ratio is probably in their favor. I am still kind of envious of their lifestyle, and if I ever run away, this is where you can find me.

About thirty minutes into the hike, we finally came around a bend that gave us the first look up the coast towards Positano. Beyond Positano, the jagged coastline stretched as far as you could see, and the island of Capri was just barely visible in the distance. As soon as I saw this view, I really understood why it was called the “Walk of the Gods.” I was so high up, looking down into valleys, and small towns along the way. We passed by the villages of Furore, Bomerano, and Praiano down below. The trail conformed to the natural landscape, bending in and around cliffs, and valleys.

After several hours, we finally reached the town of Montepertuso, situated directly above Positano on a little plateau. The dirt trail ended at the town of Nocelle, and our choices were to either hike down to the coast and then along the road to Positano, or continue at the same elevation towards Montepertuso. I am so happy that we made the decision to visit Montepertuso, since the town is beautiful. You could really see that the villagers took pride in the upkeep of their properties, and of the town's main pathways. The houses were all painted in bright pastel colors, and there were so many pink and purple flowers.

By the time we made it to Positano, it had been about five hours. I was exhausted, sweaty, and in need of a dip in the sea, but also very happy. Positano was beautiful, and I understood why tourists have flocked here for decades. That was just the problem, it was overrun with vacationers and tourist shops, and it made me appreciate the authenticity of living in Maiori, just a quick bus ride away.

A day trip was perfect for visiting Positano, and even more rewarding after a long day of hiking. I had two things on my mind after exercising in the sun all day, and that was a cold beer, followed by a swim. I settled for a crisp draft of Nastro Azzurro, a light pale lager that was perfect for quenching my thirst. There are two public beaches in Positano, and we walked the short distance to Fornillo Beach that had less people, and I think better views than the main beach in town. I rented a sun chair, got a beer, and skipped over the extremely hot pebbles to the water, where I took a much needed dip. The view from the water looking back on to the shore and high up to the hills, was one of the nicest I had seen. Next time I have a romantic night planned, I will come back to this beach and stay at the Hotel Pupetto, which is the main property on this beach.

After the sun started setting, we thought a boat ride back to Amalfi would be better than a bus. Taking a boat trip along the coast is something you shouldn't pass up if you come to this area. I had taken a boat ride two years prior, on my trip to the island of Capri, and I forgot how beautiful it was to see the coast from the sea, especially at sunset. We passed by the towns of Praiano and Furore which we had hiked above earlier in the day, and it was nice to see the route we had taken high up in the hills.

Amalfi was booming with tourists and locals alike, walking the main drag that led from the Piazza Duomo, the town square and heart of the village. You only need a couple of hours to see most of Amalfi. The eleventh century Cathedral of Sant' Andrea is not to be missed, as its stairs lead right down to the Piazza Duomo and fountain. There was a wedding going on while we were there, and it was nice to see locals and tourists break out in applause when the bride and groom emerged. If you have the energy, the hike up to the cemetery on the hill above town is nice.

Feeling hungry, we walked along the coastal road to the town of Atrani, and ate at the best pizzeria in the area. Le Arcate is a big restaurant, right next to the main beach. I have had some good pizza in my life, but this was authentic Italian pizza that left me full, and satisfied enough to rub my belly for a good hour afterwards. We ate on their patio, overlooking the town beach and sea, with Minori and Maiori in the distance. The pizza I ate had tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese, with prociutto and arucola. With a little bit of olive oil on top, it was a party in my mouth. I'm getting hungry just thinking about it. Actually, I'm going for pizza now.

Here are my photos from the Walk of the Gods, including Amalfi and Positano.

GlobeStompers gets a makeover

2009-07-08T14:14:00.002-04:00

Hey there fans of GlobeStompers, I have some exciting news. As you have probably noticed, the site has received a makeover. If you're an email subscriber, check out the site to see for yourself. We're getting closer to our two year anniversary, and it was time to change things up a little bit. The small makeover is courtesy of Peter Ames, the brilliant Creative Director at TVI Designs.

It's been an interesting month traveling around Europe, and I'll have some more posts in the coming weeks. Since my last post, I toured around ancient Rome, partied it up in Stockholm, and took advantage of the beer gardens in Hamburg.

I hope everyone is enjoying the summer...if you're in the Northern hemisphere. New posts will be coming shortly.

Ravello and Vietri Sul Mare: Two towns you should visit on the Amalfi Coast

2009-06-19T15:00:00.001-04:00

Two places in the Amalfi Coast that you must visit are Vietri Sul Mare and Ravello. Both towns are extremely beautiful, with Vietri Sul Mare right on the coast, and Ravello perched high up on a plateau, overlooking the sea. Maybe you’ve heard about the famous ceramics from Vietri Sul Mare, or the Ravello Festival, which is a summertime concert series of musical events? After about a week of chilling out in Maiori, it was time for little sightseeing.

I had visited Ravello for the first time in the summer of 2007, and to this day, it’s still one of the most romantic and beautiful places I have been. You can get to Ravello several ways, including a direct bus from the town of Amalfi, but I think half the fun is hiking up to the town, taking in the changing views with every step. There are stairs the whole way up, passing by doors to many homes. Now I understand why people here live so long, they definitely get their exercise. I started the climb from the town of Minori, which sits directly under Ravello on the coast. My parents and I started at about ten o’clock in the morning since it gets really hot midday and it’s nice to rest at lunch time, eating in the shade, while overlooking the coast below.

The whole coast is composed of a network of trails, many of which are stairs that link the little towns together. The climb up was pretty straightforward from Minori, and there are enough signs so you don’t get lost. The climb takes about an hour, or an hour and a half if you’re hiking with two old parents who are slow going. It’s my mother’s sixtieth birthday on Tuesday, but as she likes to say “age is a state of mind,” and she hiked at a good pace.

After about a ten minute walk from Minori, you come to the town’s beautiful little cemetery. It was interesting to take a quick peek and look at the family tombstones over the past hundred years. Generations of families who were born and raised in this tiny town. It was such a nice view over the sea, that I wouldn’t mind being buried here when the time comes, but somehow I feel like I would need to live in the town before this was allowed.

Continuing the climb, we then passed through the tiny town of Torello, and finally reached Ravello, via a small pathway opening up into the Piazza Duomo, the main square with a nice church. Being lunch time, it was quieter than I remembered, but I walked around to take some photos and admire the view looking down the other side of the valley to the towns of Scala and Pontone. Ravello is known as a glamorous town, with celebrities and the upper classes staying in some of the best five star luxury hotels, such as the Hotel Caruso, or the Palazzo Sasso. It was only natural that I would have a star sighting, and I came across Dennis Leary, comedian and actor, sitting by himself in the town square, looking across at the Church. I figured it was probably better to let him enjoy his holiday in somewhat anonymity, than harass him for a photograph.

Ravello was originally founded around the fifth and sixth centuries AD, and some of the wealthiest families built palaces here in the Middle Ages and Renaissance periods. These of course have been converted into luxury hotels. The small town which is perched on a flat plateau, is filled with gorgeous cobblestone pathways, old houses, hotels with views that will take your breath away, and some fantastic restaurants. It is touristy, I won’t lie, but you can avoid the crowds at times. Lunch time is a perfect chance to get away, and enjoy a meal with stunning views. I think the views over Minori and Maori are the best. My family likes to eat at the hotel and restaurant Villa Amore. The food is fantastic, it’s reasonably priced for the quality, and the husband and wife owners are so friendly. This time around I ate a nice white fish cooked in a tomato sauce, but I definitely had food envy when I tasted the fish my parents ordered, which was a grilled white fish in olive oil, lemon, wine vinegar, and mint. It may not sound like much, but then again, Italians are masters of making mind blowing meals with few ingredients.

Being one of the most beautiful places on the coast, and possibly in the world, many people choose to get married in Ravello, and I understand why. If you’re thinking of a destination wedding the two places I love are the Hotel Villa Amore, and my favorite, the Villa Eva, which just next door. Once you see the views overlooking the coast, you’ll understand why.

After a nice lunch I made my way over to Villa Cimbrone, with its massive gardens at the tip of the plateau. The villa was originally built in the fourteenth or fifteenth centuries by a noble family, but was later rebuilt by an English Lord in 1904, who purchased the property. I had visited the property two years earlier, and it is worth the six Euro entrance fee to the grounds. There are pathways that take you across the lawns, and through the gardens filled with sculptures and flowers. At the end of one of the paths is a terrace at the very tip, which overlooks the sea and the gulf of Salerno. This is my most favorite view of the coast, and also the best for photos. To one side you can see Maiori and Minori. On the other side, you look down towards the town of Atrani. The villa has several rooms to spend the night, if you can afford it. But then again, there is also a private helicopter pad, so if you can afford a helicopter, than you probably can pay for a night at the villa.

The other main site in town with stunning views is the Villa Rufolo. Built in the thirteenth century, with gardens overlooking the sea, this is where the composer Wagner was inspired to write part of the second act of Parsifal. The villa grounds are home to the Concerti Wagneriani, a summertime festival of classical music, and to part of the Ravello Festival. The large concert stage was being erected when I was visiting, and the view made me wish I could stay longer to hear a performance while watching the sun set over the Mediterranean Sea. The Festival di Ravello runs from July to September.

I took a different path back down to Minori, and found myself walking through lemon groves for most of the way. It was the path less traveled so to speak, but it was well worth it. I got lost several times, but since this trail was set further back in the valley, I had great views into the Minori and the sea down below. The whole area smelled like lemons, and I didn't see a single person on this trail. What a great way to end the day.

Vietri Sul Mare is the first town you reach while driving from Salerno. It’s a great first introduction to the towns on the coast, since it’s one of the most charming places I’ve visited. The town is located in a valley, and occupies both sides of the river, and like most towns in the area, it’s comprised of both the shore and the hillside.

If you’ve heard of Vietri Sul Mare, it’s probably because of their ceramic trade which has made the town so famous. I had so much fun wandering the small cobblestone lanes filled with stores, cafes, restaurants and you guessed it, lots of ceramic shops; the most famous ones being Ceramica Pinto, and the massive Ceramiche Artistiche Solimene. The building itself is a work of architecture wonder, by Paolo Soleri, who worked with Frank Lloyd Wright. The studio and store is four stories tall, the bottom floor being a hodge podge of ceramics stacked all over the place for sale, and the top three floors are where the craftsmen make the pieces by hand. While exploring the building, I noticed that there was a group of people on the upper floors. I figured it was open to the public as no one stopped me while I walked through an unlit passageway packed with boxes, but it turns out that I saw a school group being given a private tour, and so I tried to blend in with the kids in matching uniforms, while watching the workers hand paint plates and bowls. If you’re looking to get a new dining set, this is place to buy it. They do custom work for many of the hotels along the coast, and ship all over the world.

I had a fun time wandering the streets and taking photos. The town is proud of its ceramic heritage, and this is seen with all the public artwork adorning the walls as you walk around. I think what I like about Vietri Sul Mare is that it’s a healthy balance of tourism and locals just getting along with their days. Whereas everyone seems like a tourist in Amalfi or Positano, the townspeople here were going about their day as usual, shopping for groceries, or heading to the beach. I should mention that the beach is nice, and is only about a ten minute walk downhill from the town center, but it was packed on a weekday, and I could only imagine how a weekend would be. It is only a ten minute drive from Salerno, so if I was living there, this is where I would want to spend a sunny afternoon.

To see why I love these two places, here are my photos from Ravello and Vietri Sul Mare. I should preface this by telling you there are a lot of pics. I just couldn’t help myself. This is one of the most photogenic places I have ever been. Whether you’re celebrating your sixtieth birthday such as my mother, backpacking through Europe, getting married, or on a honeymoon, this is one of the most romantic places I’ve been to.

The Amalfi Coast might be the most beautiful place on Earth

2009-06-14T13:21:00.017-04:00

The Amalfi Coast of Southwest Italy is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. I know, it’s a bold statement. I’ve been to a good amount of countries in the last two years, since I first visited this region in 2007. I still get that same feeling of awe when I look across at the jagged coastline, with little towns built into the hillsides and small valleys, and the towering mountains behind them. Lemon groves on the step terraces of the steep hills give the area a sweet smell, and make for beautiful scenery when you are walking between towns. For tourists that know of the Amalfi coast, they usually only think about the towns of Amalfi and Positano. These were made famous by American authors John Steinbeck and Tennessee Williams, who lived in the areas while they wrote. But there is so much more than just these two, over-touristy towns.

The Amalfi coast is located south of Naples, framed by the towns of Sorrento in the North and Salerno in the South. If you fly into Rome, which I did, it’s about a three hour train ride from Termini station to Salerno, then about an hour bus ride along the coast to the towns of Maiori, Minori, Ravello, Atrani, and Amalfi. If you follow this route, make sure you get a bus seat on the left side, since this will give you the best views over the towns and sea. You can also take a boat from Salerno or Naples to Amalfi, which allows you to see the beautiful coastline from the sea. The road for most of the journey is high up on the hills, on top of cliffs, with a steep drop down. The drive is one of my favorites, since the road is about the width of two buses at most, and of course there is no shoulder. Throw in a ton of hair-pin turns, and your blood pressure rises when the driver speeds around blind turns, honking his horn, and hoping you’re the only vehicle. One of these days I want to come back and drive this route in a fast car or motorbike, just because I think it would be fun.

Life is good here. It’s easy. No rush hour traffic. People are friendly, greeting each other with a simple “buon giourno” or “ciao.” The towns typically shut down from about one to four in the afternoon, since it’s hot during those times, so I understand why. It’s a nice break if you’re working, or lucky to be relaxing at the beach. Families get together for a big meal, then it’s time for an afternoon break. For me, it includes a nice long nap.

My family has been coming to this area for the last three years. We’re a traveling family in the sense that my parents and sister have always traveled as well, and I guess this is why I am who I am. It looks like they also feel the same about this place, which is why they come back to rent the same little villa each year for May and June. It’s nothing fancy, but it does have a nice terrace with a view over the town of Maiori and the Mediterranean Sea. I can tell you that with a view like this, no one would ever need to eat dinner in front of the television again. Instead of finding out if Jack Bauer made it out alive again on the series “24” or if Ted finally found his future wife on “How I Met Your Mother” (my favorite show by the way), I watch the colors of the changing sky during sunset, listen to the sounds of the town’s church bells, and get lost in my thoughts. Maybe if I stay here until I’m old, I will become a man who just sits on a bench, watching the world go by.

I’ve been here for about a week so far. Relaxing, and taking advantage of the good food, fantastic regional wines, the beaches, and of course the stunning scenery. The town of Maiori is the largest town in the area, and is where the majority of Italians in this area live. There are tourists, but they are Italians. It’s the ideal place to try and immerse oneself in the culture and language. I’m getting better with both, but a week so far is hardly enough time.

Maiori has one main road running along the coast, that is filled with small hotels, restaurants, and a large beach separated only by a pier. Italians like their beach clubs, so for about ten Euros a day you can rent two chairs and an umbrella on a private stretch of sand, or you can find a spot to relax on the small public beaches, which seem to be more fun, and less packed.

There is another main road that runs up through the valley, and into the mountain towns of Tramonti. A large promenade also runs up from the beach and is filled with specialty shops such as a bakery or butcher. In the distance, up in the hills, is the Ninth century Castle of San Nicola de Toro Plano, which looms above the town. It’s mostly ruins now, with lemon groves, but there is the nicest old caretaker who will show you around, pointing to things with large hand gestures, while talking in Italian. I just smiled and said “si” all the time. It’s amazing how a smile is something that transcends the language barrier, and can make both parties feel at home. I try to practice this even when I’m in an English speaking country, and especially when I’m abroad in an area with a language that is new to me.

Just before dinner, and again after the meal, the promenade gets packed with locals taking their customary stroll, called a “passeggiaro.” You’ll see couples, friends, and family members walking along holding hands, or linking arms. It’s a great Italian custom practiced all over the country. At sunset, the promenade is especially beautiful. The houses are from a mix of eras. Their walls are stuccoes in pastel colors of pinks and yellows, which have faded over time. Flowers of pinks, purples, yellows, flow from balconies. I especially love that buildings like these have big windows, with shutters, and large balconies that look out over the street. It’s a very typical style of old Europe, but something that you just don’t find in North America, and it brings a smile to my face whenever I get reminded of this. Not far up from the beach on this main promenade, you’ll find the Palazzo Mezzacapo built in the nineteenth century, with gorgeous frescoed ceilings, and a nice garden in back. It’s now municipal offices. Could you imagine going to work each day in a setting like this?

In between these two main streets running up from the beach, there are little cobblestone laneways, big enough only for pedestrians and scooters. Found in many classic Italian towns, these laneways are the most fun to wander through, as they twist and turn, with stairs going up or down, and they give you the feeling that you are not in your home country. Unless, you were lucky enough to grow up in Italy, or a similar European place.

Just around the bend, up the coast from Maiori, is the small, and cute town of Minori. As the name suggests, it’s a smaller version of its neighboring town. I find the beach here a little more scenic than in Maiori, since it’s smaller, and framed by two cliffs, with the town of Ravello towering above. The one main road which winds its way from the old church and shore, is quaint. For the history or archaeology buff, there is a well preserved Roman villa you can visit. Other than this, there isn’t much sightseeing in Minori, or much of the other towns on the Amalfi Coast, outside of natural vistas, which is really the reason you want to come visit the area. Hiking is a major activity of the area, as the coast didn’t get a real road until the mid eighteen hundreds, so the towns are all linked by a network of paths and stairs going up and down. Every step up provides another breathtaking vista. I did a great hike up into the hills behind Maiori and Minori, to the Convent of San Nicola, built in the sixteen hundreds. It’s closed now, but the view of the towns and sea was stunning, and also a great spot to eat lunch with a bottle a vino. The hike down through the valley into Minori, passes by smaller towns, and even some old ruins of paper mills which were once a large business for the coast. The Amalfi coast is believed to be the first location in Europe where paper was made, and the Vatican still uses Amalfi paper for correspondence.

Italian cuisine, wow, where to start? I guess with the antipasti! These are the appetizers if you didn’t already know. There is fried calamari, caprese salad of buffalo mozzarella, tomato, and basil. Steamed clams and mussels, prociutto and melon. Then of course there is the first course of pasta or pizza, followed by a second course of a meat dish. Since it’s a coastal area, seafood dominates many of the dishes, whether it’s risotto, pasta, or grilled fish. Lemons are incorporated into a lot of dishes, since they grow almost everywhere on the coast.

One highlight for me, was eating at the Torre Normanna restaurant run by four brothers, on the second night in town. The restaurant is set in an ancient Norman Tower from 1250 AD, which was used as a lookout post over the sea. The setting is breathtaking, especially at sunset and night, since you can see all the lights of the coastal towns twinkling in the distance. Then there is the food. I’m not sure how my father loses weight every time he’s here, but all I seem to be doing is eating. Maybe it is the combination of walking everywhere, and the healthy, fresh food. I shouldn’t be complaining, I’m enjoying life right now.

Coming to towns like Maiori remind me that quality is essential when buying food. For Italians, this is another form of religion. Everything here is fresh, and grown locally. People have small fridges, and they generally go shopping everyday. My family goes to the butcher, the pescheria for fish, the vegetable store called Tutti Frutti (I love it). No preservatives, nothing is picked prematurely, only to somewhat ripen en route to the supermarket. I had forgotten what real tomatoes tasted like until I came here. This is living.

Two things I must mention are: 1) If you are going to stay on this part of the coast, get in touch with the amazing sisters Julia and Mille who run Amapola Servizi Turistici, and they can find you an apartment for rent. 2) When you do get your apartment with a kitchen, head to Il Pastaio in Minori (Largo Solai del Pastai, #37) and pick up the best fresh pasta I have ever eaten, prepared by Filamena. Cook their lemon and ricotta ravioli with a marinara sauce, and drink with a local wine such as Greco di Tufo or Fiano di Avellino, from the Campania region.

I’ll be here for a little longer, with more activities and sight-seeing along the coast, but in the meantime, here is a little taste of the area with some pictures from Maiori, Minori, and their surroundings.

Have you ever been to this area or somewhere similar? If so, I’d love to hear about it.

A Great Laptop Bag for Traveling

2009-05-21T07:00:00.002-04:00

I think back in the day laptop/briefcase bags were kind of a niche market. First off, laptops were ridiculously bulky and heavy, and so you generally needed a massive bag to support the weight. Plus, not everyone had a laptop. Nowadays, it seems that everybody has a laptop, including my grandma, and they are much smaller, lighter, and oh so portable. It makes sense that if you're going to get a backpack, you might as well get one that is designed to hold and protect your laptop.

In comes Timbuk2, with their line of laptop bags that are designed to be stylish and functional for a commute, especially if you're biking around town. Timbuk2, a San Francisco based company, has been making bags for twenty years. I first came across their bike messenger bags when I was living in Boulder, Colorado back in 1997. I remember seeing their tri color packs and thinking these guys not only make a great waterproof bag, but they are super stylish. So, it only makes sense that Timbuk2 would evolve their line and bring in some great laptop backpacks.

The guys luggage.com at asked me to review one of their briefcases, so it was only natural to pick Timbuk2's Underground Daypack. First off you'll notice that the bag is made of ballistic nylon. It's lightweight, but the material was designed to protect World War II airmen from flying debris. Just think about what it can do to protect your precious things inside. The material is also water resistant, and I can attest to this since I wore the bag out in the pouring rain for about 30 minutes, and my valuables were still dry.

The bag has 5 compartments. One main area where you can slide your laptop in the back, plus room for books, camera, or whatever else you need for the day. There are two side compartments that have great organizing sections, one side that can hold a water bottle and has a mesh small pocket, and the other side that has sections for pens, a key ring tether, and a mobile phone pocket. There is a pocket that runs the whole front side of the bag, where you can put items that need to be easily accessible, like some change, a granola bar, sun screen, etc. The pocket I love the most is on the top of the pack, which is a little compartment to hold your mp3 player. It has an inner sleeve to keep your music player in one place, and also has a slot to run your earphones out of the bag, so you can listen to your favorite tunes while you're dodging pedestrians or traffic on your bike or walk to work, school, or just sightseeing around town.

There are a couple other features worth mentioning. The bag has some serious padding on the back, with mesh to keep you a little drier while being active. The undersides of the shoulder straps also have this same mesh. I like that the padding is pretty thick as well, since you know it's going to protect your laptop, and I also hate when items in my bag dig into my back. The bottom of the bag also has two rubber guards that help to protect it from the elements and scraping against the pavement.

All in all, I think this is a fantastic bag for the traveler and for the city dweller. The pack is great as a carry on bag for planes, trains, and buses. I also think it's a good commuter pack if you're heading to school or to work. The design helps it sit higher on your back, and this is awesome when you're on a bike. I give Timbuk2's Underground Daypack two thumbs up, and for $83.99 plus free shipping here at luggage.com, you can't pass it up if you're currently shopping for a new bag. It comes in three color variations to choose from, but the one featured here is the Army/Spinach/Army colors.

Since I had such a great time testing out this pack, I want to give one lucky reader the chance to win it for free, and enjoy it for a lifetime. Drop me a line at jared@globestompers.com, and tell me why you have to have this bag.

Los Angeles and the Left Coast

2009-05-18T16:10:00.007-04:00

It always amazes me that people want to move out to Los Angeles. Okay, so the weather is pretty good, but doesn't anyone ever think about the traffic? My friends that have lived there a long time, all tell me that you get used to driving at least an hour to and from work each day. That's way too much time spent in the car if you ask me, and it's not exactly helping to reduce our carbon footprint. I guess the key is to try and live somewhat close to where you are going to work. But what happens when you want to meet up with friends who live in another area? It doesn't seem uncommon to drive an hour out of your way to hang out with friends at a bar. I'm not saying LA is a bad place, it just takes a certain kind of person to want to live there, and I'm just not that type of person. Sorry LA. I have a hard time living in a place where it seems that everyone either wants to be famous, or hang out with famous people. But this is really Hollywood that we're talking about, so aside from Hollywood, I can manage. I do happen to really like Malibu, Santa Monica, Venice, Redondo and Hermosa beaches, and of course, the jewel that is the city of Long Beach (LBC).

It's actually pretty funny, but if it wasn't for a trip to Southeast Asia in 2005, I probably wouldn't have discovered Long Beach. Strange statement right? I met a group of super cool girls at the entrance to Angkor Wat, and the rest was history. I spent about a week traveling with them in Siem Reap, and the beaches of Southern Thailand. I guess there are just some people who you meet while traveling that simply become family. My friends, or I should say my new extended family in Long Beach are: Erin, Danielle, Nicole, Greg, and Hal. As long as they are living in LBC, I'll always make the trip to visit them, and that's just what I did this past Spring.

I flew from Newark to LAX airport on Continental Airlines, and met up with my friend Jonathan who recently made the move from New York to Los Angeles. He started his own clothing business, and just loves the weather and girls. So he's an example of someone who loves LA. We spent the day driving around downtown LA, visiting some old work colleagues, and taking advantage of some authentic Mexican tacos. Apparently I have an Argentinian accent when I speak Spanish, or at least that is what the woman at the taco restaurant said to me. She thought it was hilarious. I didn't really get the joke. I was just happy that she understood me. After a solid afternoon of touring downtown, I met up with Greg and we drove the forty five minutes south to Long Beach.

Greg and Danielle are two of my favorite people. Greg works at Capitol Records in LA, and Danielle is a real estate agent. If I had to decorate a house, I would hire Danielle. Their place has tons of plants, and art from all over the world. They are always such great hosts, and make it so that I never want to leave. Since we first met in 2005, I think I've gone to visit them about a dozen times. I keep asking them to come visit me so I can return the favor, but I'm still waiting. Hint hint, nudge nudge. But I guess I need to be a permanent residence first!

The next day I spent hanging out with Greg at the iconic Capitol Records building in Hollywood. I visited the studios and got an amazing tour of the building and archives along with my childhood friend Christian (who is also known as the comedic genius behind the blog and NY Times best selling book Stuff White People Like), who recently moved out to LA. The view from the top of the building was stunning, and I was able to see the Hollywood hills, and all the way to high rises of downtown. One highlight was getting to sit in Frank Sinatra's old chair in Studio A where he recorded some of his most famous songs.

That evening I got my first tour of downtown LA at nighttime. I have to say, I was pretty blown away with the diversity of fun bars and places to go. I usually go out in Hollywood, but I'm thinking downtown is the new place to be. We started the evening at the Edison Room, which is probably the largest bar I have ever been to. I'm not even slightly exaggerating. Converted from an old electric plant, you feel like you're entering into the nineteen thirties when you walk down the stairs, and the bar just opens up before you. With massive ceilings, sofas, and old power plant paraphernalia, you feel like you're stuck in a time warp. One of the coolest things about this bar is that they give you a token to buy a thirty-five cent drink at the bar, going back to the depression era prices. They also have a soup kitchen with cheap food on Fridays, and live music on Thursdays. Why can't all bars do this now that we are officially back in a depression? From the Edison room we went to get some food at Wurstkuche. Recommended by Val as the best exotic sausage joint in LA, we drove about ten minutes to a random side street in the historic arts area. Val wasn't lying, the sausages were exotic and damn tasty. I had a grilled rattlesnake and rabbit sausage with jalapenos! I also tried the duck, bacon, and jalapeno sausage, which might have been a little better, but it was too close to call. The place is an artsy hipster style restaurant with a back room filled with modern picnic tables and a huge list of imported Belgian and German beer. It's great for a group of people, and I will definitely go back. After a late night bite, we went to some pirate bar, no joke, with the worst music I have ever heard. It was so bad that I won't even tell you the name or where it is. Actually, I think I blocked it from my memory. From here we decided to go to the Seven Grand whiskey bar, a Scotch lovers dream come true. The decor was amazing with tartan plaid wall paper and rugs, pool tables, and a whole lot of deer heads mounted on the wall. The whiskey menu was long, and we sampled some rare treats. Thanks to Greg for treating. Let's just say the prices were a tad more than in Southeast Asia.

The next two days I chilled with my friend Erin in downtown Long Beach. She is a furniture designer and painter, who is involved in the thriving art scene in LBC. She lives in a converted loft and is involved in a new collective called R U Long Beach, that is doing some amazing and cutting edge work with artists in the city. We spent our days biking along the boardwalk on the beach, and through the downtown area. Most people who visit the LA area will probably never come to Long Beach. I'm guessing that the locals like it this way, but I'll give you a little inside tip. The bar and restaurants are great, there is a great art scene, and it's a little less crowded than the areas immediately surrounding LA. One night we did leave the comfort of LBC, and made the trip to Santa Monica to celebrate my friend Jonathan's birthday at a great bar called Air Conditioned. There are several locations of this bar, Venice Beach being the better spot in my opinion, but we had fun, and seemed to take over the whole place.

In addition to visiting old friends, one of the main reasons I went to the LA area on this trip was to attend the Expo West natural products trade show. Just picture aisles and aisles of every food and beverage company imaginable. The focus is organic, quality foods and products, that you would find in a place like Whole Foods. I spent two days eating and drinking my way to heaven, and also got to check out a free concert by G Love and the Special Sauce, a Philadelphia native who played a mix of blues, soul, and funk music.

If you've never been to LA before, here are my recommendations. For a cool place to stay, check out the Standard Hotel in either downtown LA or Hollywood. It's a boutique hotel where I've stayed many times for work, but you definitely get a sense of the scene that is LA, especially if you attend the pool party on the roof of the downtown location. If you want to stay on the beach, go to the Georgian Hotel in Santa Monica. It's a tiny, cute, art deco hotel built in 1933, and has housed some of the old Hollywood royalty back in the day. One of the rooms is supposedly haunted...boo. This is usually where I stay when I come to LA, and I give it four thumbs up (two from me, and two from the ghost of the Georgian).

I love walking the boardwalk along the beach in Venice and Santa Monica. The Third street promenade in Santa Monica is great with tons of stores and restaurants. Definitely a place to people watch. It reminds me a lot of Lincoln Road in South Beach Miami. I also enjoy walking the Santa Monica pier with its massive Ferris wheel. I would walk down Melrose Avenue and check out the stores if you're into shopping. Fred Segal has the trendiest of the trendy clothing. If you like to surf, Malibu is good, so is Redondo and Hermosa beaches. If you want to drive a little further south to Huntington Beach, there are usually good waves there as well.

For food, my top pic is the Palms Thai restaurant in Thai town on Hollywood Boulevard. I have to thank David and Chris at Original Penguin for taking me there many years ago. The place moved locations several years ago, and although the old location had a better atmosphere, it's still fun to eat a meal while being serenaded by live musicians such as Thai Elvis, who does a great rendition of Love Me Tender. For burgers I would check out Father's Office in Santa Monica. I also really love In-N-Out Burger. I know it's fast food, but it's damn good, and you can only get it on the West coast. The fact that they have a secret menu makes it that much cooler. I always order my burger "animal style." I'll let you find out for yourself if you don't know what that is. Erin and I got some late night burgers after Jon's birthday in Santa Monica, and they were that much better at one in the morning.

I don't think I'll ever move to LA, but I will always come to visit friends. A big thanks to Greg, Danielle, Erin, and Jonathan, for their amazing hospitality on this trip. Hal, you're on my list next time I visit.

To see a little more, here are my photos from Los Angeles.

Atlanta, and a little southern hospitality

2009-05-15T20:30:00.000-04:00

Atlanta, home of Coca-Cola, the 1996 Summer Olympics, and some of the hottest weather I've ever experienced in my life. People refer to the city as Hotlanta during the Summer months, due to the ridiculous humidity, but visit in the Winter or Spring and you're good to go. After my trip to Toronto, I decided to visit my uncle, aunt, and cousin who live in Atlanta and, who swear it's the greatest city in the US. I'll tell you this, the city is great, but with their hospitality, it is quite possibly the best place to visit.

I flew in on Continental Airlines for a long weekend, and stayed with my cousin Shawn. It was just my luck that the famous Steamhouse Oyster Festival was going on the same weekend. The Steamhouse bar and restaurant has been putting on the festival for years, originally in the Buckhead neighborhood, and now at their location in Midtown. The streets are blocked off, there's live music, beer, and tons of oysters! The festival was on February 21st and 22nd, and we were out in jeans and a tee shirt. Couldn't beat the winter weather.

If you can believe this, at a bar nearby Oyster Fest, I ran into Chris, who is a guy I met on Ko Phi Phi, in Thailand. I think we were both shocked to see each other. Out of all the cities and places in the world! Chris was great, and even invited us out to his loft for a party later that night. I tried my hand at DJ'ing, and had so much fun.

The rest of the trip was spent doing normal weekend activities. I went running in Piedmont Park, which has beautiful botanical gardens in the heart of Midtown Atlanta. I relaxed, and caught up with family. I also had brunch at the best spot in the city. Next time you visit, make sure you hit up Ria's Bluebird Cafe in Grant Park. Try the cheese grits, and pecan pancakes...yum. Thanks to My friend Meg for this suggestion.

Some other good places to visit in Atlanta include, the trendy/artsy area of Little Five Points, Decatur, the nightlife around Buckhead, and the Highlands. For some good Southern soul food, check out Son's Place restaurant, not far from Little Five Points.

Since my cousin is an Atlanta native, I asked to get his top pics on what do to and where to go. Here are his suggestions:

Food:

- Italian: Soto Soto.

- Mexican Tacos: El Ray Del Taco and La Fonda.

- Steak House: Hals, and Bones.

- Sushi: MF (Magic Fingers) Sushi.

- Southern Food: JCT (Junction) and Sons.

- Barbeque: Fat Matt's and Abdulla's (the owner was Abdulla the butcher, the former WWE wrestler).
- 5 star dining: Aria, Rathbauns, and Bacchanalia.
- Asia or Spanish food: Any place on Buford Highway.

Nightlife:

- Party Areas:

Midtown (Crescent Ave and surrounding areas)

Clubs - Opera, Leopard Lounge, and Cosmo/Lava
Bars - Twisted Taco and Steam House

Buckhead

Clubs - Tongue and Grove, East Andrews
Bars - Tin Lizzys, 5 Paces

East Atlanta

Bar - Flat Iron

- Happy Hour: Tin Lizzy's (Buckhead)

Other Activities:

- Atlanta Braves baseball day game. Buy a cheap ticket and go to the Budweiser Pavilion.
- Atlanta Falcons football night game. Buy a club ticket and enjoy the game in style.
- UGA Saturday afternoon college football game. Buy any ticket, and sit in the student section.

- Decatur Beer Festival.
- Halloween in Little 5 Points.

Does anyone else have good suggestions on what to do and where to go in Atlanta?

To see a little more, here are some photos from my trip to Atlanta.

Tragedy In Phi Phi, Thailand

2009-05-07T14:08:00.008-04:00

Some unfortunate news has come my way, and I wanted to share it with the readers of GS. This past week, two women who were on vacation in Ko Phi Phi, Thailand, died of suspicious circumstances.

Jill St. Onge, 27, from Seattle, became severely ill and died early Sunday morning. She was rushed to the hospital by her fiancee after becoming increasingly sick over a span of a day. Jill was backpacking for three months around SE Asia, and planned to return to the US on May 12th. This was one of their last stops. Jill's fiancee Ryan also became sick, but survived the incident.

Julie Michelle Bergheim, 22, from Norway, also fell ill with the same symptoms, and died on Monday. Her friend, a 19 year old woman, who was also from Norway, is recovering from the same illness in Phuket Bangkok General Hospital.

All four people stayed at the same budget guest house called Laleena Guest House, and became sick within hours of each other. Doctors on Phi Phi said the women died of dehydration and shock. Autopsies are being done to determine the cause of deaths, but several theories are being circulated. Food poisoning, and contaminated air or water are being looked into. It is believed that the two women did not have any contact with each other.

It's so sad to hear this type of news, especially because I have fond memories of Ko Phi Phi, and Thailand in general. Ko Phi Phi is a crazy island, and although many visit to relax and stay at the remote bungalows, it's a hot spot for young backpackers looking to drink and dance all night. I know I did. This just reminds us to be aware of our surroundings, and try to stay safe, but sometimes you just can't avoid it.

My heart goes out to all of the families affected. It's so sad, since I'm such an advocate of leaving the comfort of your own home to travel and experience the world. But unfortunately tragedies like this do happen. I hope the families get answers from the autopsies, that will help clear up the mystery, and that the Thai authorities will act to make sure something like this never happens again if it is a case of negligence.

In the meantime, travel safe, and be aware, but don't let this stop you from enjoying life and new cultures.

If you would like more info, and to share your support with Jill's family, check out http://jillstonge.blogspot.com/. Photos of both Jill and Julie are courtesy of the Andaman Times.

Toronto: My Home Town

2009-05-01T14:57:00.012-04:00

I bet that many of you have never been to Canada before. Okay, this excludes my friends and family from Canada of course. But seriously, I've met so many Americans who have never even ventured across the border. It's true that many Americans don't even travel outside the lower forty eight states, but come on. And if you're one of those people who have been to Niagara Falls or Windsor, Ontario, that doesn't really count as visiting Canada. Toronto, the biggest city in Canada, and also where I grew up, is easily accessible and very cosmopolitan.

After a quick jaunt to New York City, I jumped on a Continental Airlines flight to Toronto. Continental is actually one of the best US based carriers I have ever flown, and way better than my native Air Canada. Sorry Canada, but this is one thing you got wrong. It's okay, I'll forgive you since You have amazing health care, great public schools, funding for the arts, your streets are clean, and you are extremely polite.

I spent about a week in total in Toronto, which is more than enough time if you just want to get the highlights of the city. I was there to catch up with family and friends, so I took some much needed rest after some serious globe-stomping in Asia.

The area I grew up in is called Riverdale, yes, like in the Archie comics. I'm sure I am being biased, but it's one of my favorite neighborhoods in Toronto. Riverdale park incorporates a large hill, that at the top, it gives one of the nicest skyline views of the city, especially at sunset. Plus, it's also the best tobogganing hill in the winter time. I was lucky to be in the city during a big snow storm (yes, I know you probably think I'm crazy for saying this), but because of this, I was able to go tobogganing for the first time in probably ten or fifteen years. Tobogganing is an activity that one should continue to do into old age. Seriously, it keeps you laughing and therefore young at heart.

So what did I do while in Toronto. Well, the most important thing was visiting old friends. This included food and nights out on the town. In addition to going tobogganing, I also attempted the sport of Curling for the first time. It's much harder than it looks, and it's also so much fun.

If you didn't know, Toronto is one of the most multicultural cities in the world. And with it, comes great food from around the globe. I ate the best dim sum at a local Chinese restaurant called the Grand, on Gerrard Street East, near Broadview Avenue. The main Chinatown (yes, there are several) is on Dundas Street West, and packed with great restaurants as well. If you want some authentic Indian food, head to Little India on Gerrard Street East. As for Italian, nothing beats Little Italy on College Street West, near Bathurst Street. This is also a great place for night life. If you want to experience a good market head to Kensington Market, just off of Spadina Avenue, near College Street. Not only can you get fresh produce, but it's home to some of the best vintage clothing stores in the World, and also to the best Jamaican beef patty joint, called the Patty King.

Speaking of street snacks, Toronto has the best hot dogs, and I'm not even slightly exaggerating this claim. New York is famous for its numerous street carts selling steamed kosher dogs, but nothing will prepare you for the massive grilled, yes grilled, hot dogs and sausages that are best enjoyed late night after a couple drinks. My favorite stand has always been on the corner of Queen Street West and Spadina Avenue. Besides being grilled over an open flame bar-b-que, the dogs are almost twice the size of New York's, plus you have the option of toppings like cheese, bacon bits, hot peppers, and multiple types of mustard. I usually eat mine with ketchup, mayo, American mustard, onions and/or sauerkraut, cheese, bacon bits, and banana peppers. It might sound like a heart burn in a bun, but done on occasion it is heaven, and a trip home isn't complete until you try one of these.

There are two other essential food and drinks from Canada that you must try if you make it to Toronto, or another Canadian city. The first is coffee from Tim Hortons (named after the famous hockey player). Canadians swear they put crack in the coffee to keep us addicted. The second is pizza from Pizza Pizza. It's not like it's the most fantastic pizza in the world, but it is a Canadian icon.

As for sightseeing and activities while in Toronto, there are plenty of things to keep you busy. There is a bustling theatre (yes, in Canada they spell it theatre) community. You can find many of the same Broadway shows from New York, including Mamma Mia, at theatres such as the Princess of Whales. If you are an art or museum lover, check out The Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), and the newly re-designed Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO) by Frank Gehry. Want to see something out of the ordinary, check out the unique Bata Shoe Museum. If you have children, the Ontario Science Centre will keep them entertained for hours. Not afraid of heights, then take the elevator to the observation deck of the CN Tower, and jump up and down on the glass floors while looking down. Go on, I dare you.

Toronto is best visited in the spring and summertime for obvious reasons, and if you find yourself in the city during this time, there are some outdoor places you have to visit. My favorite is the Toronto Islands, located just off-shore in Lake Ontario. This is an amazing place for biking and rolling blading. Plus, there is also a nudist beach if you're into that kind of thing. While you're strolling, or biking along the numerous paths, don't forget to take in the view of the city over the harbour. Most of the picture-perfect postcard scenes of the city, are taken from the Islands. As for some other fun outdoor activities, head to Ontario Place, Harbourfront Centre, the Toronto Beaches off of Queen Street East, and the massive High Park.

If you are a sports fan, then there are several options for live events, depending on the time of year. Toronto is home to a number of professional sports teams. The Blue Jays baseball, and the Argonauts football teams play at the Rogers Centre (formerly Sky Dome). The Maple Leafs hockey club, and the Raptors basketball team play at the Air Canada Centre.

My nights in Toronto were spent in the new party spot near the intersection of Queen Street West and Ossington Avenue. In this area is the Drake Hotel, which in addition to being a hotel, has a great bar and music scene. Just around the corner is Levack Block, another fun bar with dancing. If you want other areas, check out the Annex neighbourhood near Bloor Street and Spadina Avenue. I love Future Bakery and the Green Room for great food and coffee. There is also Queen Street West around Spadina and Bathurst Streets, which also has great bars and restaurants.

I know this is probably enough information to keep you busy for several months in Toronto, but it's just that I want you to love my home city and tell all your friends. Actually, let's keep it a little secret between you and me, okay? Because it's that great.

Check out my photos from Toronto, Canada.

Skype for iphone and blackberry...traveling soon.

2009-03-30T22:41:00.003-04:00

As of this Tuesday, traveling life as we know it will be changed for the better. What am I talking about? According to the Red Herring, Skype has announced that you can now download the application from itunes for the iphone and ipod touch. Unfortunately BlackBerry users will have to wait until May.

So what does this mean exactly? It means that if you are traveling with an iphone or ipod touch, and you get a wireless signal, you can now make free Skype to Skype calls, or use Skype Out, and for pennies, you can connect with your friends and family back home. Visiting New York from London and you're eating lunch in Bryant Park? Great, use the free Wi-Fi and your Skype application, and call home for much less than it would from your local carrier. I should note that it will work only in Wi-Fi mode and not with AT&T's 3G network.

Although Wi-Fi signals might not be as easy to come across in developing countries, you can always find Internet cafes or kiosks in most tourist towns. So maybe it's not free, but it's still pretty cheap to possibly access their Wi-Fi service and call home on Skype.

All I can say is that I wish this service was available before. I've been traveling with a quad band GSM phone that is unlocked, and I've had to buy local SIM cards in each country to make calls. I won't be able to completely rely on Skype from here on out, since there are many instances where I can't get access to a Wi-Fi signal. But if I know I'll be close to a Wi-Fi signal, then I can plan on much cheaper, and longer calls home.

If you're using Microsoft's Windows mobile, Google's Android, or have a Nokia phone, it won't be long either before Skype is an option on these operating systems.

Australian Music Rocks!

2009-03-12T23:26:00.006-04:00

I'm sure some of you never expected to hear the tag line that Australian music rocks, but it does. Yes, I know you're bored sick of the song Land Down Under by Men At Work, but I swear Aussie music is a gem waiting to be discovered by the rest of the world. Remember the band Silverchair from the 1990's? In 2007 they came out with their Young Modern album, and their single Straight Lines is completely different from what you probably remember. It rocks. Not like their classic Frog Stomp album didn't, but they've evolved to a new sound.

I spent about four and a half months in Australia, and let's just say a good part of it was driving some four thousand plus kilometers, with nothing more than a mix of ten hit or miss CD's, and the radio. I can attribute my musical awakening, and also my driving sanity, to Triple J, a national radio station which is a division of the Australian Broadcasting Corporation.

Triple J's programming focuses on Australian artists and new music from around the world. It is hands down my favorite station to listen to online, so you don't even have to wait for that long overdue trip to Australia to check out their music scene. Although, you should go visit the country at some point.

It was my friend Armin from Germany, who turned me on to Triple J's Hottest 100. The Hottest 100 is an annual poll of the most popular songs amongst their listeners, and it's announced every year on Australia Day, which is January 26th. It's a big honor to get the number one spot. In 2007 the winning song was Knights of Cydonia by Muse, and in 2008 the top spot went to Sex on Fire by Kings of Leon. Both of these are fantastic songs, and each year Triple J puts out a two disc compilation, with approximately forty songs. The current collection, which is volume 16, is now available on the ABC site, and they ship globally.

I know what you're thinking. Both Kings of Leon and Muse aren't Australian bands. Okay, so it's true, but the Hottest 100 does include a good mix of Australian artists, and just by listening to their online radio station, you'll become enlightened by the talent from down under. Here's the artist line up from the last two Hottest 100 compliations:

2007 - Volume 15 (note that 52 of the 100 tracks are by Australian artists)

2008 - Volume 16 (this is the latest compilation)

Some of my favorite Australian rock artists that I would recommend are:

- Silverchair

- Faker

- Bluejuice

- Architecture in Helsinki

- Urthboy

- Angus and Julia Stone

- The Beautiful Girls

- British India

- Wolfmother

- The Panics

Triple J tends to be mostly alternative and indie rock, but there is also an amazing hip hop scene in Australia. I have to admit that I wasn't the biggest fan of hip hop until stumbling upon the Australian scene. I tended to avoid the commercial gangsta rap scene of the past, and listened to artists such as Aesop Rock and Mos Def. I do really like Mike Skinner from the Streets, and I guess that is why I'm probably a fan of Aussie hip hop, since their lyrical play is truly amazing.

As for my favorite Australian hip hop artists, I would check out:

- Drapht

- Pegz

- DJ Bonez

- Jase

- Muph & Plutonic

- Bias B

- Spit Syndicate
- Chasm

- The Funkoars

- Plutonic Lab

Hopefully you'll actually start listening to all these artists, and Triple J's streaming radio. If you're like me, and sick of US radio programming, this will be a breath of fresh air.

Buenos Aires Restaurants

2009-03-01T21:19:00.006-05:00

For some reason, it seems like many people I know are heading to Buenos Aires for vacation. The one question I usually get, besides where to stay and what to do, is where to eat. I mean, let's face it, food is a big part of visiting a different country, and it's a great way to immerse yourself in the culture. When I think of Argentina, I think of great steak and fantastic bottles of Malbec for a fraction of the price you would pay in an American restaurant. Wait, why am I not there now?

Some must have food items that you can't leave BA without trying are: steak/bife (order it "jugoso" if you can handle it rare), empanadas, and Italian food, especially the homemade pasta. BA has some of the best Italian food outside of Italy, due to all the Italian immigrants in the nineteenth century.

As for neighborhoods with the best restaurants, my top three are: Palermo, Puerto Madero, and Las Canitas. These are also the best areas for nightlife after you finish your meal at one or two in the morning!

I had to consult with my friend Jess, an expat from New Jersey who still lives in Buenos Aires, because it's been over year since I lived there. So, without further ado, here are Jess' top places to eat in BA.

STEAK

-- La Cabrera - Despite being over-run by out-of-towners, its the best steak in the city. Huge portions. Expect to wait, even with a reservation. Cabrera 5099 corner of Thames, Palermo Viejo.

-- Cabaña Las Lilas - by far the best service you're gonna get in BA, plus wonderful home grown beef from their own farm. Great outdoor seating option along the trendy river promenade. Alicia Moreau de Justo 516 near Peron, Puerto Madero.

-- La Brigada - A more intimate choice, full of soccer paraphernalia and local charm. Estados Unidos 465 near Bolivar, San Telmo.

MODERN

--La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar - Ridiculous name, fantastic restaurant. Creative Spanish chef, well thought out cuisine. Only here can you get a tasting menu of up to 11 courses, for around $30 US dollars (excluding wine of course). Must make reservations in advance. Bolivar 865, San Telmo.
--Azema Bistro - French style bistro, but really an eclectic mix of great dishes from all regions of France and its former colonies...with an Argentine twist of course. Carranza 1875, Palermo Viejo.

--Casa Cruz - Never actually been here, but it comes highly recommended by friends and colleagues, I think more for trendiness than for the food. May be worth it to check out a scene. Uriarte 1685, Palermo Viejo.

ITALIAN

--Bella Italia - High-class Italian dining with trendy locals, great bar scene as well. Republica Arabe Siria 3285.

--Pierino - Out of the way, more traditional brick-wall joint where the owner still waits tables. Amazing pasta selection. Lavalle 3499, Almagro.

--Filo - If you're downtown, a colorful and fun atmosphere where every single thing on the menu is fresh and delicious. Pizza is a must. San Martin 975 near Marcelo T. de Alvear, Retiro.

LUNCH

--Cumana - Traditional Argentine food that isn't only meat! The best empanadas, casseroles, pizzas, salads, and home-style food in the city. Always crowded. Rodriguez Peña 1149, Recoleta.

Are you hungry? I sure am.

Tokyo - yo

2009-02-18T17:00:00.002-05:00

Japan was a last minute trip for me, and I didn't spend much time planning what I should see and do in Tokyo. For most of my travels I had at least looked through a guidebook for suggestions, before I arrived in a new city or country, this way I had a rough idea of what I wanted to see. I only gave myself three days to sight-see in Tokyo, and it wouldn't have been the same experience if it wasn't for the hospitality of Ryosuke and his family. Ryosuke is the older brother of Shunsuke, who is my old roommate from when I lived in Colorado, many years ago. Their family is from Tokyo, and I had always wanted to come visit.

I arrived early in the morning by overnight bus from Kyoto. The bus dropped me off at Tokyo Station, and it took me a good thirty minutes to get my bearings and figure out where I was supposed to go. I have seen some pretty complex subway lines in London and New York, but nothing prepared me for Tokyo. The Tokyo underground is a massive combination of subway and commuter trains, all rolled into one map. Go figure. After my third day I started to get the hang of travel in Tokyo, but it took me a while. As for those images of thousands of Japanese commuters cramming into train cars, I never really saw that. I did travel around rush hour some days, and it was packed, but nothing out of the ordinary. The only thing that was different were the number of people wearing surgical face-masks. I am not joking. Remember the SARS epidemic, with all the news images of people wearing face-masks? Well, I guess that fad never went away, and people wear them now if they are sick with a cold or flu, or to prevent getting ill. Talk about respect.

I checked into the Aizuya Inn for three nights, which is located in San'Ya, by the Minamisenju metro stop, in the old part of Tokyo. The hostel was clean, extremely cheap (I had a private room for $32 USD a night), the staff was really friendly, there was free Internet, and it was small and comfortable. I should mention that I had a traditional Japanese room called a washitsu, which consisted of a futon on a bamboo tatami mat on the floor. It was the smallest private room I have ever had, but it was cozy. The hostel is also walking distance to Asakusa and Ueno, two old parts of Tokyo with fantastic sites.

My first day in Tokyo was spent with Ryosuke and his family. I only expected to spend a couple of hours with them seeing a small part of the city, but we ended up spending the whole day together, and I basically saw most of Tokyo in the span of twelve hours.

I met Ryosuke and family at the Mitsukoshi department store in the famous shopping district of Ginza. The Mitsukoshi store is similar to a Saks or Bloomingdale's store in the US, and a destination for designer brands. From here we walked around Ginza which is similar to Fifth Avenue in New York, and then made our way over to the Imperial Park where the King resides.

It was a sunny, Sunday afternoon in Tokyo, and it just happened to be the day that volunteers rented out bikes for free to ride around the park. So the four of us grabbed some cruisers and peddled around the park. We didn't go into the palace, but the grounds were nice to visit, and it gives me something else to see when I come back another time.

We ate lunch at a nice restaurant in Ginza, which is similar to midtown Manhattan, and then we headed out to visit the neighborhoods of Shinjuku and Shibuya. Whereas New York has their large Times Square, Shinjuku and Shibuya are both massive shopping districts with huge neon signs everywhere, and trendy youths hanging out. In Shinjuku, we first walked down the touristic Takeshita street that was filled with kids in crazy hello kitty style school uniforms and goth outfits, and then made our way over to visit city hall, to get a view of the Tokyo skyline from the top of one of the towers.

The Tokyo city hall building is a massive high-rise of two towers, and some beautiful architecture if I may say so. As with many buildings in Tokyo, there are free viewing platforms on the top floors, to see out over the city. Our goal was to try and see Mt. Fuji in the distance, but although it was clear in Tokyo, the mountains had a veil of clouds, and it wasn't meant to be. Even though we couldn't see Mt. Fuji, the city skyline was impressive, and Ryosuke pointed out all the places we had visited earlier that day.

From Shinjuku we walked to Meiji Jingu, which is the most popular Shinto shrine in Tokyo, and it was packed with locals coming to pray and make a blessing for the new year. The shrine is located in Yoyogi Park, and surrounded by beautiful trees, which is a nice contrast from the city's concrete jungle. The long walkway was lined with ice sculptures that were being judged for a contest, and the designs really blew me away. I had never seen such intricate work with ice before. We stood in line to pray, and threw in a five Yen coin which is the luckiest of all coins, according to Ryosuke. We bowed, and clapped our hands, and it felt good to pray for a better year in 2009. Too many people have lost their jobs and homes around the world, not just in the US. It was a sad sight, as there were many homeless sleeping in the Imperial park, and Ryosuke mentioned that many new homeless in Japan, are the result of the world economic crisis.

We then went to visit the other famous shopping district of Shibuya. I had met a girl in Bali who was on vacation from Tokyo, and lived in Shibuya. She was surprised when I told her I had no idea where this was. I guess it's like someone saying they've never heard of Times Square in New York. Even if you don't know it by name, I'm sure you've seen images of hundreds of people crossing the main intersection at once. We got to Shibuya around dusk, and went up to a walkway that gave us a good vantage point over the intersection. I had a good laugh just watching and taking pictures of people crossing in all directions at the same time. Not just in a rectangle, but in a diagonal as well, all at the same time! We then joined the masses and crossed back and forth several times until I had my fill. I had to do it, and I'm glad Ryosuke entertained the idea of several crossings.

If you're a woman, and you don't mind overcrowded shopping malls, then you need to visit the famous Shibuya 109. It's where you'll find all the new brands. We walked the mall just for kicks, since it reminded me that I was a long way from home.

We finished off the day with an amazing meal at Top of Ebisu, on the thirty-eighth floor of the Ebisu Garden Place, which provided night views over Tokyo. The meal was one of the best I had in Japan, the ambiance and hospitality was top notch, and we were entertained the whole night by Kona, Ryosuke's four year old daughter.

I was completely worn out by my first day in Tokyo, and so I spent my second day touring the local neighborhoods of Asakusa and Ueno. These neighborhoods are in the old part of Tokyo, and the buildings are traditional and only several stories high. I stumbled upon a sushi stand not far from my guest house, which served up amazing traditional sushi, sashimi, and maki rolls. Standing beside some locals, I practiced my Japanese that Ryosuke taught me, and ordered from Yoshi, the old master sushi chef. I wish this place had a name so I could recommend it to others, but alas, it will be remembered as the sketchy sushi shack on some lane way, with fantastic food, and a humble chef Yoshi san.

I walked to Asakusa first, and visited the famous temple of Senso-ji. It was a national holiday and the temple was packed with locals. Leading up to one of the temple entrances is the hawker street of Nakamise-dori. If you can bear the slow pace of crammed people inching along the narrow street, while looking at souvenirs, then go for it. I made it about three quarters of the way, then had to duck out onto a side street. I did however get some great hot sake to go from a vendor before I left. All the little streets around the temple in Asakusa are very picturesque, and it's worth taking a stroll. There is even an old tiny amusement park with some ancient looking rides if you're looking for some additional excitement. After my experience with the famous Cyclone roller coaster in Coney Island, New York, I vowed never to get on a ride older than I am. Also, Asakusa is famous for its soba and udon noodles, so soups here are not to be missed.

From Asakusa I made my way on foot to Ueno. By this point I was exhausted and didn't spend too much time walking around, but I did manage to stumble upon the Tiger factory on a side street while getting lost. For those of you who don't know about Tiger, they make the best rice cooker to date. It was recommended by my former roommates Shunsuke from Japan, and John from Korea, and I've owned one for about thirteen years. Picture this, I jumped in joy when I saw the building and would have asked for a tour if only they were open. The rice cooker is an institution in my kitchen. I also heard that Ueno has some great museums and galleries, but I was too tired to find out if this was true.

My last day in Tokyo was spent getting up at the crack of dawn, to visit the Tsukiji central fish market in downtown. Let me just preface this by saying I thought I had seen it all in markets around Asia, but nothing prepared me for Tsukiji. I was warned ahead of time, not to get in the way of the bustling workers, and boy were they moving quickly. Between dodging the massive motorized carts used to transport the seafood, and trying not to get smacked into while taking photos, I was able to get some nice shots. Unfortunately the relative size of the objects doesn't come across in the pictures, but take my word for it, I have never seen fish, clams, mussels, scallops, and crabs, as big as these. It was as if all the mutated monster fish were snatched up by Japanese fisherman. I lasted about twenty minutes in the actual market and then spent my time wandering the food shops outside the market entrance.

When I was getting my divemaster certification, an instructor named Peter told me he didn't eat seafood because they're our underwater friends, and divers rely on thriving marine life . I never really got it until I went to Tsukiji, and saw fishing on such a large scale. Since my favorite food is sushi, I'm starting to rethink my eating habits.

Tokyo is amazing, it's not as expensive as everyone claims it to be, and Japanese hospitality is not to be missed. A big thanks to Ryosuke and family for a wonderful time. Go out and see for yourself. I heard that Dragon Air has some cheap flights to get there. In the meantime, here are my photos from Tokyo.

Kyoto, temples and sushi

2009-01-29T23:00:00.002-05:00

Japan is one of the most hospitable countries I have ever visited. The stereotypes are true, people are so friendly and welcoming. I found myself bowing all the time, and loving it. I didn't have much time to explore the country as it was a last minute decision to visit, but I was able to see Kyoto and Tokyo over six days. Just enough time for a sampling of what Japan has to offer.

I flew from Manila, Philippines to Osaka, Japan on Cebu Pacific, the Philippines low cost carrier. They just opened this route, so flights were dirt cheap. Kyoto is only about one hour to ninety minutes from the Osaka airport, so I took a slow (cheap train) to Osaka and then on to Kyoto which got me into town in the evening. Japan has a complex train system consisting of super fast bullet trains (shinkansen), and then a number of local/slow trains. If you're short on time, pay for the bullet trains. If you're a cheapskate backpacker, and time isn't an issue, the slow trains are about half the price, and reasonable. Japan Rail offers multi-day passes, that are a great way to see the country if you're planning on visiting several cities, but I only took individual trips and opted out of the pass.

Most of the people I've spoken to about Japan, had this notion that it is the most expensive country in the World. Last I heard it was Russia, but Japan is either the same price, or even cheaper than the US. Kyoto was a little cheaper than Tokyo, and Tokyo seemed to be about the same price as New York. Public transportation on the subways and buses cost about three dollars, hostel beds are approximately twenty five dollars, and you can find cheap food for five bucks. Just after I arrived in Kyoto, I ate a late dinner at a fast food/diner type of place and had salmon, rice, and miso soup for four dollars, which by the way is also a traditional breakfast. No bacon and eggs here. I saw these types of restaurants all over Kyoto and Tokyo, so you can eat for cheap if you want to.

I checked into K's House, which is one of the nicest hostels I have ever been to. They are a chain of hostels all across the country, so you could make your vacation easy by just staying with them. If you want further proof, check out my photo of their electronic toilet. I swear, you have a heated seat, and it can clean your rear end with a push of a button and a little spray. Plus, when you flush, there is a built in sink above the water tank. If you can buy these in the US, please let me know. I spent two nights and two days at K's House in Kyoto, which was enough time to get a taste of the city.

Kyoto city is the place to visit if you want to see temples. The city was formerly the imperial capital of Japan, and has the largest concentration of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in the country. My first day in Kyoto was spent visiting the famous world heritage site of the Kiyomizu-dera temple, and the surrounding neighborhood of Higashiyama (see map), which also contains the Chion-in temple and Maruyama Park. Kyoto is surrounded by small mountains, and Higashiyama is just at the base of the Eastern hills, so its backdrop is stunning. The neighborhood has numerous parks, temples, shrines, and traditional shops and houses. This was a great introduction to Japanese culture and history, and a must for anyone visiting the country.

Kyoto is such a photogenic city and the Japanese understand the need to take great photos. For the first time ever, I had people stop to avoid my camera, so I could get a great shot. It was like this all over Japan. So next time you see a Japanese tourist with a massive SLR camera, let them go nuts and take as many pictures as they want, because some day they might return the favor when you visit Japan.

After strolling through Higashiyama, I walked to the neighboring Gion district, and found a street festival that was packed with locals and amazing food stalls. I had just eaten a tasty okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) for lunch called Issen-Yoshoku, so I wasn't terribly hungry, but there were some interesting street treats. I did however have room for some homemade sake (rice wine), that I drank from a street stall.

Gion is supposedly famous for the Geishas that walk around the area, but I saw more along the tiny streets of Kyamachi-dori and Pontocho-dori, just south of Sanjo station, and next to the river. These streets were the place to be for night-time entertainment, as they were packed with trendy young Japanese, and it was just bars and restaurants as far as you could see. I really wanted to do Karaoke since I was in Japan after all, but I was on my own, and picked up a nasty cough and cold from the climate change, so I would have sounded like Leonard Cohen even if I tried.

Not far away from the nightlife of Kyamachi-dori are the Nishiki food market, and the clothing arcade, which by the way, had amazing post holiday deals on some trendy threads. I do want to mention that the Japanese are the best dressed out of all the cultures I have seen. They can make anything look cool, and if there is such thing as reincarnation, I'd like to come back as a Japanese kid. So, I did what any homesick Canadian/American would do, and I went shopping. I was also freezing, considering my wardrobe up until this point had been flip flops and surf shorts. So I had to buy a winter jacket and some pants, but I swear I could almost pass for a Japanese hipster when I walked out of the store. Thank you Right On, a great store if you visit the area.

After shopping I ate some sushi at a sushi train restaurant nearby, and that was one of the coolest experiences I've had in Japan. I had seen the sushi train restaurants in New York, where the little plates pass in front of you on a "train," and you just pick what you want. But this was a much larger scale, it was actually cheaper than New York (at about $1-2 a plate), and if you didn't see what you wanted, you could order almost anything from a touch screen menu placed in front of you. Give it about 3 minutes, and your customized order would come out on a different train. It was amazing, and I'm getting hungry just thinking about it. I should say that sushi in Japan is nothing like the intricate concoctions you get in North America. They make traditional Maki rolls, and you won't find things like cream cheese filled Philadelphia rolls.

My second day was spent seeing the Northwest part of Kyoto. I bought an all day bus pass, which is cheap, and took off to see the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine and Kinkaku-ji temple. The Kinkaku-ji temple, also known as the Golden Pavilion, is a famous Zen temple that was originally built in 1397, but burned down by a monk in 1950. The top two stories of the temple are covered with pure gold leaf, and it's a spectacular site.

I didn't make it to the Nijo Castle and Imperial Palace, but I heard these were also nice sites as well. The Imperial Palace gives guided tours twice daily at 10 am and 2 pm, but it was a public holiday and shut for the day. I did take a bus around the Imperial Park grounds, and it looked like a quiet place to spend an afternoon when the weather was better.

To finish off my day, I strolled back through the neighborhood of Gion to get some gyozas (dumplings) that I was craving, and then made my way back to K's house to get my bags. I went to Kyoto station which is the main train and bus terminal, and got a really cheap overnight bus to Tokyo. I'm not even sure of the company name since the hostel arranged it for me, and I can't read Japanese, but there were about five or so companies outside on the south side of the station, that were competing for business. It was a comfortable ride, and I had an empty seat next to me for the seven hour trip. Maybe it was because I was the only foreigner, or somehow they knew that I was sick, and didn't want to seat someone next to me, but I wasn't about to complain. Next stop was Tokyo.

To get a better picture of my introduction to Japan, here are my photos from Kyoto.

Manila in a day

2009-01-19T15:00:00.001-05:00

Some of you might think I am crazy for traveling to Manila for 24 hours, considering I was in Kuala Lumpur, and had to get to Tokyo. For those who don't know where Manila is located, it is the capital of the Philippine Islands, and it's much further east than Borneo in the South China Sea. My decision to see Manila for a day can be attributed to two factors: to see a new country and culture, and because it was actually cheaper to fly from Krabi, Thailand to Kuala Lumpur, then to Manila, and on to Japan, than if I was to buy a ticket from Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur directly. Go figure. But with low cost carriers flying throughout Asia, you sometimes need to get a little creative.

I flew from Krabi to Kuala Lumpur and on to Manila with Air Asia. I gave myself about 18 hours in Kuala Lumpur since it was my third time in the city, and I was really only there to get some Indian food at the Nagasari Curry House on Nagasari street, that I had been craving since my friend Jodi and I ate there several months prior. I had the tandoori platter, which was some tandoori chicken, nan bread, and some curries, for something like $3 USD. I'm sure I mentioned this before, but KL is amazing for food, and it's damn cheap. The city has a great mix of Malay, Indian, and Chinese cuisine. I stayed at Le Village guest house again, but this time it was packed, and noisy. I wouldn't recommend staying there, but it was easy as Chinatown is pretty central. If you do want a place for a couple days, stay at Red Palm backpackers or any other place on Tengkat Tong Shin in the Bukit Bintang area.

I almost missed my flight to Manila because of the hour time change between Thailand and Malaysia. Note to self, it's more important to change the time on your alarm clock than your wrist watch. Air Asia flies into Clark International airport, about an hour and a half north of Manila. At least it was easy to catch a bus and take it into the city to the neighborhoods of Melate and Ermita. Melate is where most of the travelers stay and it's where I found a guesthouse that was decent enough for a night.

Manila is a busy, noisy city, but it has a lot of character. The Jeepneys are a perfect example of this. Left over military jeeps from World War Two were converted into crazy looking, colorful communal taxis, that dominate the streets. There is poverty, and the streets are pretty run down, but Filipinos seem to be some of the friendliest, and happiest people I've seen in Asia.

They have great Southern hospitality...Southern Asia that is. I met some nice locals who went out of their way to make sure I had a memorable time. I asked some people in my guest house where I could find some great Filipino food, and instead of just telling me it was around the corner, one guy took me to his favorite place to eat with us. At night I met two locals who wouldn't let me pay for drinks, and bought beer all night, even though they didn't have much money. Speaking of drinks, I think the Philippines has the cheapest beer I've found in Asia, and pretty decent too. One bottle was about 40 US cents.

With my one afternoon, I walked around the neighborhoods of Ermita and Melate. There isn't much to see, but two things stood out the most. The first is that there are signs on most places that say, please check your gun at the door. So I guess that means there are a lot of concealed weapons around. The second thing is that the streets are filled with employment offices, and there are tons of jobs to be found. It's not just local work, most of it is overseas employment, working at hotels, or on ships. A big percentage of Filipinos work abroad, so they can send money home to their families.

Even though I didn't spend much time in Manila, I'd like to come back and really see the Philippines. Manila kind of grew on me after I first arrived, and it's pretty easy to get around on their nice LRT train line. I've heard great things about the beaches on the many islands, and the scuba diving is supposed to be great. One day I'll be back.

For a brief glimpse into life in the Philippines, here are my photos of Manila. There aren't many shots, but hopefully enough to paint a picture of the place.

The Backpacker Diet

2009-01-10T05:00:00.003-05:00

Forget the South Beach, Zone, or Atkins diets, I have a much better plan, and I promise it's more fun. I think the problem with most North Americans is that we spend a good part of our days sitting at work, or in the car commuting to and from work. I know I did, and I considered myself to be a pretty active person. On weekends I would try to go hiking, running, or rollerblading around New York City. I was also going to the gym about two times a week. But no matter how much I worked out to stay in shape, I still gained weight. I'm kind of embarrassed to say this, but I gained about twenty pounds since my college days when I was in peak physical shape. I ran the New York City marathon in 2005, so that helped to curb the weight for a bit, but by the time I left to go traveling I had some small beer/love handles that Julie used to joke about.

Traveling was the best thing I could have done to get back in shape. I started in South America where it's an adventure playground. Even if you're not into doing serious outdoor activities, even just walking around sightseeing all day will burn an amazing amount of calories. The key is to stick to developing countries that have hot climates. The food in these places are usually extremely healthy, and well balanced.

I had lost a good amount of weight by the time I reached Argentina, but that country reversed all the good I had done to my body. Argentinians subsist off of beef, pork, and more beef, with some pasta here or there, topped off by a bottle of wine. Fruits and vegetables, what are those? Okay, so I might be exaggerating a little, but I ate like a king and my belly showed it.

Australia wasn't very good to me either, considering that they have free barbecues in every town. As a backpacker living out of a car, that's an invitation to grill some meat on the barbie, every chance you get.

It wasn't until I got to Southeast Asia that I lost all the weight since University, and I'm happy to report that I am now a whopping 145 pounds. I'm only five foot eight, so don't go thinking I'm anorexic. How did I do it. Well, I kept away from western food, gave up soft drinks, and didn't drink much beer. I ate fish, chicken, rice, tofu, and a whole lot of vegetables. Asia is easy since there are delicious curries to choose from, and the noodle soups are fantastic. It also helps that it's hot in Southeast Asia, and I drank at least three liters of water each day.

So, before you consider cutting out carbs for your new years resolution, why not consider a lifestyle change and travel the world. Pick a developing country with hot weather, and leave McDonald's at home where it belongs. Who knows, you might actually have some fun while you're dieting.

Sorry if the photo of me is a little creepy, but I wanted to show the results to all my beer belly brethren out there. It's tough photographing yourself in the mirror while trying not to look too cheesy.

To Myanmar and Back

2009-01-03T05:00:00.002-05:00

Thailand only gives foreigners a thirty day visa on arrival. Since the airport closure in Bangkok almost one month ago, the government decided to change all land crossing visas to fifteen days, which is going to severely limit the amount of time backpackers will spend in Thailand. I was lucky to just make the thirty day visa when I did my border run to Malaysia about a month ago, but It was running out and I needed to get another fifteen days. The best option for a border run if you're in the north of Thailand, head to the town of Mae Sai which borders Tachilek in Myanmar (Burma), in the heart of the Golden Triangle.

I woke up early, I mean early, to catch the 6 am bus from Chiang Mai to Mae Sai. It's a pretty easy five hour trip on the Green Bus to the border. The tiny bus was packed, and they managed to add an extra seat to a normal row of four, so we were five, crammed together. I sat next to a Buddhist monk from Luang Prabang in Laos, who was studying in Chiang Mai. He told me Luang Prabang had changed a lot in the three years since I was last there, but he seemed to think it was a good thing that there was a lot more tourist development. More money to the local economy. Since he was studying English, we talked for about an hour, and ironically enough, I gave him my copy of Siddhartha to read.

Mae Sai and Tachilek are shopping destinations. Tachilek more so, since it is much cheaper than the Thai side. Thais were packed on both sides of the border, carrying huge shopping bags filled with fake Gucci bags, cheap liquor, and bootleg DVD's and CD's. I paid $10 USD for my 14 day visa to Myanmar, even though I would only be there for a couple of hours. I felt bad supporting the current regime with my greenbacks, but I didn't really have a choice as I needed to extend my visa.

Myanmar is efficient when it comes to getting people across the border to shop. They held my passport while I visited Tachilek and gave me an ID card with my photo on it. I was even allowed to take photos of the border crossing (I should mention that my camera broke just at the border so unfortunately I have no photos of Myanmar). This was not the Myanmar I was expecting. I had images of the military occupying every street corner, and a huge sign at the border saying welcome to Myanmar, leave your rights and freedoms behind you...but don't forget to shop and spend money to help finance our government!

As soon as you cross over the river and the border to Tachilek, you are immersed in a shopping block with several side streets, crammed with vendors selling everything you can imagine. I lost count of the amount of times I was stopped by teenage boys peddling cartons of cigarettes, porn, and Viagra. I kept asking myself if I was really in Myanmar? It also doesn't say very good things about tourists if this is what we're buying when we come for cheap shopping.

After sampling some amazing local dish with three kinds of noodles, tofu, and some form of cheese, I looked for the quickest possible exit to get me to the real Myanmar. Okay, so I was in a border town, probably not the best representation of a country, but I soon found myself walking down side streets, and I was the only foreigner. I received stares from some face painted locals, but most smiled back when I smiled at them. I should mention that some of the local Burmese had painted their faces with orange, yellow, and red paint. It was quite beautiful. I only had a couple of hours to explore the streets, but I found a myriad of Buddhist temples, in great condition. Again, I asked myself, am I really in Myanmar? If anything, this quick introduction gave me more reason to fully explore the country at a later date.

After a long five hour bus ride back to Chiang Mai, I headed straight for the Saturday night market. By far, this was the best market I had seen to date in Thailand. Not as touristy as the daily night bazaar, the one main street was packed mainly with Thais, a good indication that I was in a better place to shop. Again there was great street food, and fantastic musicians. I got a sixty baht (two dollar) foot massage for a half hour, then bought a hand made purple scarf for my sister who's birthday was on the twenty fourth.

My final day in Chiang Mai was spent doing what the local travel agencies refer to as the Adventure Trek. It wasn't really a hard core adventure day, but we did make the most of a ten hour tour. Nine of us from a mix of guest houses drove for about an hour northwest of the city, into the mountains. I was with two middle aged Swedes, and a group of English mothers and their teenage kids. It made for an interesting afternoon. We started with an hour long elephant ride, pretty standard for anyone visiting this part of Thailand. It was touristy, but really so much fun. The elephants have little platforms on their back to seat two people, but since we were an uneven number in our group, I got to ride around its neck, the traditional way of riding elephants. It was awesome. Okay, so I almost fell off a number of times, but definitely worth it.

The next activity was a jungle trek to a waterfall. The hike was pretty easy, and we passed through some picturesque little villages. After the trek and quick lunch we went white water rafting. It was a pretty bare-bones operation, and the rapids weren't as big as what I did in Ecuador last year, but it was so much fun and we were laughing the whole way down. Towards the end of the trip down the river we switched to a bamboo raft, similar to a Venetian gondola but not that fancy, and floated ever so slowly down the remaining kilometer to finish the trip. Did I mention this whole day cost me $25 USD. What was the best thing you got recently for twenty five dollars?

This finished my time up north, now it was back to Bangkok on an overnight bus, followed by another day in the big city, with a second overnight bus to Krabi. Wow, just saying that was almost as exhausting as the trip itself. This time around I had a great day in Bangkok and kind of wished I had spent the night in the backpacker district of Banglamphu. If you do stay here, find a place off of Soi Rambuttri, not on Khao San Road. Some people love the city, and others hate it. I seem to love it, but only for a short amount of time.

With my eight or so hours to kill before my night bus, I headed to Banglamphu to drop my bag and get a ferry boat down to see the old royal palace and Wat Pho, with the famous reclining Buddha. The ferry is a great way to go, making stops all along the waterfront. But just as I was about to get my ticket I noticed the Green Bike station, and it turns out that Bangkok offers free bike rentals to tourists. I've driven motorbikes through some pretty crazy traffic in Asia, but nothing prepared me for peddling around Bangkok. There are some bike lanes, but of course, that is where all the cars park, so I had to pray that buses gave me some room while passing.

I had seen the palace and Wat Pho three years earlier while traveling with my friend Tal, and both are worth seeing again, but I only had time for one, so I biked down to Wat Pho to see the large Buddha. It was just as I remembered it. Beautiful temples all over the compound and one massive reclining Buddha.

A trip to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to Khao San Road. The small street is packed with hostels, bars, restaurants, and hundreds of hawkers selling everything from tee shirts, jewelry, and fake ID's. As much trash talk as Khao San gets, it really is a one stop shopping destination in Thailand. I definitely wouldn't stay in a hostel on the street, but it is the best place to find amazing graphic tees, a new travel backpack (if yours was unfortunately stolen), and yes, every type of fake ID under the sun. I was happy to do a little shopping and then enjoy a beer on the street and just watch people go by.

I made it back to my apartment in Ao Nang, near Krabi, just in time for new year's eve. After a day of rest, I got on a boat to head back to Ko Phi Phi, the crazy party island. It was a party on the beach, Thai style, and yes it was crazy. Definitely a memorable place to spend new years, but I missed you all.

I hope 2009 will be a fantastic year for everyone, and wish you all great health and happiness.

Here are my photos of North Thailand and Bangkok.

To Chiang Mai and the North

2008-12-30T05:00:00.001-05:00

Planes, trains, and automobiles. That should sum up my trip from southern Thailand, all the way up to Chiang Mai in the north. Okay, so there weren't any planes involved, but I felt like Steve Martin trying to get to Chiang Mai for Christmas. I took an overnight bus from Krabi to Bangkok, followed by an overnight train that evening, that got me into Chiang Mai in the morning, two days after I started my journey. Surprisingly, after all my travels around the world, my body has somehow adjusted, and I wasn't the least bit tired when I arrived. Although it was nice to get a shower, and a change of clothes.

The bus from Krabi to Bangkok was on a company called Lignite, and I have to say, they were almost as good as the luxurious Argenitian buses that we encountered in South America. The seats reclined pretty far back, I was served two meals by a bus attendant, and you couldn't beat the price at $15 USD. I arrived in Bangkok early in the morning and spent a good half of the day traveling to the train station and then back to one of several bus stations, in order to secure my onward travel to Chiang Mai, and then back home the following week. It always sucks to travel around Christmas and New Years back home, and I thought it would be better in Asia, but it seems most of Europe comes to Thailand for the holidays, and finding last minute tickets was tough. I was lucky to get one of the last sleeping berths on the train that night to Chiang Mai, and also scored one of the last seats back to Krabi on a bus in about a week's time.

With my eight or so hours remaining, I thought it would be fun to hit up the MBK shopping center by Siam Square in central Bangkok. I had been to Bangkok three years ago, and didn't feel the need to do tons of sightseeing, or even spend another night in the city, but I did need a new mobile phone, and MBK is a shopping mecca for cheap electronics and clothes. For $50 USD I got myself a new unlocked quad band GSM phone, suitable for travel in any country!

The train to Chiang Mai left from the beautiful Hualamphong train station in Bangkok, and took about fourteen hours with stops. I was passed out for most of it on my upper bunk in the second class air-con cabin, thanks to Tylenol PM, my new best friend for overnight trips. But I did manage to wake up for a gorgeous sunrise over the hills outside of Chiang Mai on Christmas morning.

The trip was fun, and since it was Christmas eve, there was even a little party on board. Not as rowdy as one might expect, but the beers were flowing from the dining car just next door. At about 10 pm, the attendants came around and fixed up our bunks that were converted from the seats facing each other. They provided pillows and a blanket, and curtains for privacy. The last time I traveled on an overnight train was from Agra to Goa in India, almost eight years ago, and it brought back fond memories of traveling alone again in a foreign country. When I woke the next morning, I dug into my Christmas flip flop/stocking like any good Jew. I should probably mention that this is the part of Christmas that I find fun, and since I don't own any socks, I thought my red flip flops could do the trick, so I balanced some peanut brittle and dried mango on the strap.

Once I got to Chiang Mai, fate that came in the form of an old motorcycle taxi driver, brought me to a perfect guest house called the Chiang Mai Inn. It cost me 200 baht a night (about $7 USD) for a private room with bathroom, and the place was off the main road so it was quiet and relaxing. There was a good mix of young and old travelers staying there, so I didn't feel like I was in a party hostel. As soon as I arrived, I rented a motorbike for the day and took off touring around the city.

Chiang Mai is now one of my favorite cities in the world, and it reminded me a lot of Mendoza in Argentina. The city is surrounded by hills, and there are plenty of activities to keep you busy for weeks. There are treks to nearby hill tribes, elephant riding, a tiger sanctuary, culinary schools, Thai massage schools, night markets, and a ton of temples to visit. I decided to start my first day by seeing the Buddhist temples.

There are numerous wats (Buddhist temples) located in and around the old city of Chiang Mai. I basically just drove through the town stopping off whenever I saw a nice temple, or a street snack that caught my eye. I don't know what it is about traveling, but I seem to be hungry all the time, and there are so many good street vendors in Thailand, especially in Chiang Mai. One of the nicest temples I visited was Wat Phra Singh. It had beautiful grounds around the temple as well. Not too far away from Wat Phra Singh is the amazing restaurant of Huen Phen, where I tried the local curry soup called Kao Soi. Normally the restaurants recommended in the Lonely Planet guidebooks are overrated, but I have to say that this one was packed with locals and the food was damn good.

Around sunset I took off to visit the temple of Doi Suthep, one of the North's most sacred temples, about 20 kilometers from the city center. It's located in a national park up on the hillside, overlooking Chiang Mai. The drive was fantastic and I highly recommend making the trip.

I definitely made the most of my first full day in Chiang Mai and finished it off with a trip to the dentist. Yes, the dentist. Thailand has some of the cheapest and best dentists in Asia, and my teeth cleaning at the Chiang Mai Medical and Dental Polyclinic, cost me a whopping $22 USD.

As for nightlife in Chiang Mai it's best to kick it off with the famous night bazaar, which happens every evening. The bazaar is pretty touristy, but it's fun to walk around and see all the stalls, and sample the street food. There are tons of bars on Th Loi Kroh on the way to the bazaar, but I finished off my evening at the THC roof top bar which is a chill lounge on a roof top overlooking the canal of the old city. If you're up for an after hours bar, I heard that Spicy is a good spot, but it doesn't get going until late night.

My second day in Thailand was spent at the Thai Farm Cooking School, located on an organic farm just outside the city. This place was recommended to me by friends Matt and Siobhan from Australia, and Jodi from Montreal/NYC. People say that the best way to a woman's heart is through her stomach, and I figured learning to cook some Thai food might come in handy in the future. For 900 baht, or $26 USD, I had a full day of cooking instruction where I learned to make five dishes, and I ate them all in a nice big communal meal at the end. Just to get your mouth watering, I now know how to make green curry, tom kaa soup, papaya salad, pad thai noodles, and a coconut banana desert, all from scratch. I will start taking reservations for chez Jared shortly. I had been wanting to do this since I heard about the school back in November, and it was one of the reasons I came to Chiang Mai.

After getting stuffed at the cooking school, I figured a movie would be a nice way to finish off the day. I hadn't seen a new movie in several months, and Australia was playing at the local mall. I had wanted to see this movie ever since Julie and I saw the trailer for it while in Australia, and the movie brought back some good memories of that country. We even visited the town of Bowen in Queensland, which doubled as the location of Darwin for the movie. I loved it, and highly recommend seeing it if you can sit through the two and a half hours of screen time.

The rest of my trip is to be continued in Part 2. here are my photos from Chiang Mai part 1.