Mexico is an excellent budget travel destination and easy to get to. It’s often quite possible to book direct flights between major U.S. cities and many of Mexico’s top tourist destinations. Once in the country, long-distance buses make getting from one place to another easy and relatively inexpensive. If you’re backpacking or traveling on a budget you’ll likely want to spend the majority of your time in some of the smaller beach towns as opposed to the larger and more extravagant resort cities; although good deals can sometimes be found there as well. Here are five beach towns along Mexico’s Pacific coast that are perfect for backpackers and budget travelers.

Sayulita, Nayarit

This once tranquil fishing village is now a bustling beach town that’s popular among backpackers, surfers and foreign residents. Sayulita is located along the Riviera Nayarit roughly 35 km (21.7 miles) north of the popular resort city of Puerto Vallarta. Despite an influx of foreign residents and visitors, Sayulita still manages to maintain its laid-back atmosphere, which is what originally attracted people to the beach town in the first place. In recent years Sayulita has also gained a reputation as a top foodie destination. International flights arrive at the airport in nearby Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca

One of the best known surf spots on Mexico’s Pacific coast and home to the legendary Mexican Pipeline, the beach town of Puerto Escondido, or ‘Hidden Port’, is another backpacker favorite. Puerto Escondido is still very much a fishing and market town, but there are also plenty of traveler services like inexpensive cabañas and hostels, internet cafés, language schools, restaurants, bars and a thriving nightlife scene. Several surf competitions are held in town each year and non-surfers should avoid Playa Zicatela as waves can reach heights of more than 12 meters. There are other calmer beaches and sheltered bays nearby for swimming and snorkeling.

Zipolite, Oaxaca

A rustic beach town built along a beautiful 1.5 km (0.9 mile) stretch of coastline in Mexico’s southern state of Oaxaca, Zipolite beach has been coined the “perfect budget chill out spot.” It’s relaxed, bohemian atmosphere makes it the perfect place to kick back and enjoy a cold cerveza on the beach while watching the sunset over the ocean. Stay in open air beachfront cabanas and spend your evenings at the open air beach bars or browsing the hippie market in the center of town. Chances are you’ll end up postponing your departure at least once. Zipolite is where I spent my first New Years in Mexico and to this day it remains one of the highlights of my travels along the coast.

Mazunte, Oaxaca

Located just 5 km (3.1 miles) west of Zipolite beach is the beachfront village of Mazunte, another well known traveler’s hangout with an ‘old-time hippie vibe’. The village is home to a sea turtle aquarium and research center. Like its neighbor to the west, Mazunte’s relaxed vibe and bohemian atmosphere make it a great place to hang around for a while. Punta Cometa at the west end of Mazunte beach is the perfect spot to watch the sunset. Visitors can also tour the nearby mangroves and take part in volunteer projects offered by the town’s local ecotourism cooperative.

Boca del Cielo, Chiapas

Easily the most rustic of the beach towns mentioned on this list, Boca del Cielo in Mexico’s southernmost state of Chiapas is a true off the beaten track beach destination. Boca del Cielo is located 15 km (9 miles) south of Puerto Arista and separated from mainland Mexico by a shallow inlet. Services are basic but comfortable, consisting mostly of sand floor restaurant palapas and simple family run posadas, or guest houses. Visitors can assist the local campamento tortuguero with nighttime nesting patrols (most active July to November) and hatchling releases (May to October).

What are some of your favorite budget beach destinations in Mexico?

Photo credit: via flickr

Semana Santa procession in Guanajuato

Carnival celebrations are in full swing, today is Fat Tuesday and the last day of celebration before Lent begins on Ash Wednesday. Easter Week, also known as Holy Week or Semana Santa, is just over a month away which means there’s still time to book flights to Mexico to observe the holiday celebrations. Mexico is a predominantly Catholic country and it isn’t surprising that religious traditions play an important role in Mexican culture. Semana Santa is celebrated each year in cities and towns throughout Mexico with dramatic processions and passion plays. Easter Week is the first week of April this year and Good Friday, or Viernes Santo, one of the most important days of the Holy Week celebrations, falls on April 6th. Here are four of the best destinations in central Mexico to celebrate Semana Santa, each with their own unique traditions.

Iztapalapa, Mexico City

Last year for Semana Santa I headed south to Mexico City’s Iztapalapa borough to observe one of Mexico’s largest passion plays. Semana Santa events take place all week long in Iztapalapa, however the largest and most spectacular displays take place on Good Friday when the entire neighborhood shuts down, vendors line the streets and more than a million spectators show up to witness the dramatic procession and passion play. The passion play that’s staged in Ixtapalapa is a realistic reenactment of the crucifixion and takes place on the Cerro de la Estrella, or Hill of the Star, which is situated above an ancient pagan archaeological site. Iztapalapa can be easily reached via public transportation and the closest metro station is Iztapalapa.

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato

The lovely central highland town of San Miguel de Allende is known for its large community of foreigners, many of whom are retirees from the U.S. and Canada. Semana Santa celebrations in San Miguel de Allende take place during the two weeks leading up to Easter Sunday. There are fireworks, processions and a whole host of other activities and events, among them a solemn procession on Good Friday and the burning and exploding of paper-mache Judas figures on Easter Sunday. There’s also a Palm Sunday mass at the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel; located on the main square this pink parish church with its baroque-style towers is one of the town’s most iconic images. San Miguel de Allende is just a three to four hour drive from Mexico City.

San Luis Potosí, San Luis Potosí

I spent my first Semana Santa in Mexico in the city of San Luis Potosí where an elaborate Silent Procession, or Procesíon de Silencio, on Good Friday celebrates the Passion of Christ and the march to crucifixion. With more than 2,000 participants, the Silent Procession in San Luis Potosí has been compared to the ceremony that takes place in Sevilla, Spain. Groups of men dressed in distinctive cone shaped hoods and robes carried wooden crosses and platforms displaying images of Christ while women and children followed behind with candles and crosses. It was an emotional and impressive display of faith. San Luis Potosí is located 261 miles, about five to six hours by bus, from Mexico City. It may also be possible to find a cheap flight between the two cities.

Taxco, Guerrero

The well-preserved former silver mining town of Taxco has been designated a national historic monument and all new architecture must conform to the original style (white buildings with black signage and trim). Built on a hillside, Taxco offers incredible views of the surrounding area. During Semana Santa the street processions that take place in Taxco are unique in that they include penitentes who practice the tradition of self-inflicting pain by carrying heavy loads and wounding themselves with whips and thorns to honor the suffering of Christ. A reenactment of the crucifixion takes place on Good Friday, and Easter Sunday is a joyous celebration of rebirth. Taxco is located 160km southwest of Mexico City and can be reached by bus in about three hours.

Where’s your favorite place to celebrate Semana Santa in Mexico?

Photo credit: via flickr

There are lots of great reasons to book cheap flights to Mexico’s southernmost state of Chiapas. Whether you come to relax in the lovely Spanish-colonial town of San Cristóbal de las Casas, tour small indigenous villages like San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantán, take a dip in the pools at Agua Azul and Misol-Ha or simply to be a part of all the end of the world mania along La Ruta Maya, you won’t be disappointed. Mexico is gearing up to welcome millions of tourists this year, and a return trip to Chiapas is on my travel shortlist. One of the highlights of a visit to the region is getting to explore what are, in my opinion, some of the most spectacular Mayan ruins in all of Mexico.

Toniná

The hillside temple complex of Toniná is located just outside the town of Ocosingo, two hours north of San Cristóbal de las Casas. The drive from Ocosingo out to the site is incredibly scenic, as are the views overlooking the surrounding countryside from atop the ruins. Toniná’s ceremonial core is made up of a series of pyramids, platforms and hidden chambers that tower 80 meters above the Gran Plaza. Called the ‘Place of the Celestial Captives,’ Toniná is believed to have been one of the last surviving cities of classic Maya civilization. Toniná is one of the lesser visited of Mayan ruins in Chiapas, and the last time we were there we had the site nearly all to ourselves.

Palenque

Palenque is one of Mexico’s most visited archaeological sites receiving more than one thousand tourists on an average day. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and part of the larger Parque Nacional Palenque, or Palenque National Park. The ruins at Palenque cover an area of 15 sq km, much of which has yet to be fully excavated. The ancient city is located in a dense jungle setting in one of the rainiest areas of Mexico. After being abandoned around AD 900, the ruins were overgrown and hidden from the outside world until the mid-1700s. Excavations at the site didn’t begin until the 1940s. The jungle setting and exquisite architecture makes this one of my favorite sites to explore.

Bonampak

Set deep in the Lacandón jungle, 148 km southeast of Palenque, Bonampak is one of the most remote Mayan archaeological sites in all of Mexico and was hidden from the outside world until the mid-1940s. Bonampak’s construction dates back to the Early Classic period and since its rediscovery the site has gained attention for its monolithic limestone stela and impressive brightly colored murals which have helped to give Bonampak its name which translates to ‘Painted Walls’ in Yucatecan Maya. Bonampak was never a major city and spent most of the Classic Period under Yaxchilán’s influence.

Yaxchilán

The ancient Mayan city of Yaxchilán is situated on the banks of the Usumacinto River, which serves as the border between Mexico and Guatemala. Another of my favorite archaeological sites in Chiapas, Yaxchilán is believed to have been one of the most important Classic Mayan cities in the Usumacinta region. Just getting to Yaxchilán is an adventure and the last 22km of the journey must be made by lancha or motor boat along the Usumacinto. The jungle surrounding the ancient city is teeming with wildlife including spider and howler monkeys, and there’s a good chance you’ll hear them long before you see them swinging from branch to branch in the trees overhead.

Tenam Puente

Located in the western highlands of Chiapas just south of Comitán, roughly 1.5 hours south of San Cristóbal de las Casas, the ruins at Tenam Puente are one of a few settlements of the Classic Maya period that are believed to have survived into the Postclassic period and the site isn’t thought to have been abandoned until around AD 1200. Tenam Puente is built on a series of hills and consists of three ball courts, structures and a 20m tall tiered pyramid. The architecture at Tenam Puente lacks the same ornamental embellishments found at archaeological sites elsewhere in the region. It’s another of the lesser visited sites in the region and rarely feels crowded.

Chinkultic

Like Tenam Puente, Chinkultic is another of Chiapas’s western highland archaeological sites that is believed to have survived into the Postclassic period, though it remains just partially excavated and is not nearly as impressive as some of the other Mayan ruins in the region. Chinkultic is dramatically located atop a bluff overlooking the surrounding lakes and forests that make up the spectacular Lagos de Montebello, a picturesque region of forest and hued lakes that’s situated along the border with Guatemala. Chinkultic is a favorite stop along the route to and from the Lagos de Montebello, although it’s worth inquiring in Comitán for the latest news, as the site is often closed due to a longstanding dispute between local residents and state and federal agencies.

Photo credits: 1, 3, 5, 6

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See also:

Touring Mayan Ruins in the Yucatán
The Top 10 Archaeological Sites in Central Mexico

Around the corner from Café La Habana, the Artesanías La Ciudadela market in Mexico City is one of my favorite places to go to browse a variety of handicrafts and folk art from all across Mexico. These traditional hand-made dolls are crafted by the indigenous peoples of central Mexico and are part of Mexico’s heritage.

Aguas frescas, or water infused with fruits or flowers and sweetened with sugar, are a popular drink here in Mexico. Often sold by street vendors and served out of large plastic jugs in the markets or at street festivals, they’re a tasty and inexpensive alternative to water, sodas or cervezas. It’s not uncommon to see people walking along the street or browsing the market while sipping aguas frescas from plastic bags. They can also be found on the menu at many restaurants and neighborhood fondas. To find out the flavors of the day simply ask your server, “Qué aguas tienes?”

One of my personal favorites is agua de pepino, or cucumber limeade, and I’ve recently begun preparing my own version of this healthy and delicious drink with a little help from this easy to follow agua de pepino recipe from La Cocina de Leslie. I generally don’t like a whole lot of sweetness in my drinks, so I’ve replaced the sugar in the recipe with a small amount of honey and added a healthy boost of chia seeds.

Agua de Pepino con Chía

1 large cucumber, peeled and cut in chunks
3 limes, cut in halves
water
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons chia seeds

Blend the cucumber with water until smooth and strain into a pitcher.

Blend the lime halves with water for 3-4 seconds (without grinding up the white part of the zest) and strain into the pitcher along with the cucumber puree.

Add enough water to fill the pitcher, add honey and stir. Lastly, stir in the chia seeds and refrigerate until ready to drink.

Serve with or without ice, garnish with a slice of cucumber or lime and enjoy!

Perfect alongside vegan tortilla soup with pinto beans.

What’s your favorite agua fresca?

“Speak your truth in your own authentic voice, unflinchingly and without hesitation.”   –Lama Surya Das, Awakening the Buddha Within

I’m constantly adapting my schedule and to do list to meet my current needs, and after evaluating my priorities for 2012, I’ve decided to do away with the posting schedule that I set for myself at the end of last year. Instead, I’ll be publishing a new post once or twice a week or as often as I have something that’s worth sharing. I’m also discontinuing my month in review posts. Links to recent posts can be found in the sidebar and in the archives, and announcements and updates will be communicated in the form of short posts and/or social media updates on Twitter, Facebook and Google+, so be sure to add me on each. And of course, I’m always open to suggestions, so if there’s anything you’re curious about just drop me a line and let me know. Thanks for reading!

Now that we’re a month into the New Year, how are your resolutions shaping up?

Photo credit: via flickr

“You don’t stop running because you get old, you get old because you stop running.” ― Christopher McDougall, Born to Run: A Hidden Tribe, Superathletes, and the Greatest Race the World Has Never Seen

I mentioned in a previous post that I had started reading Born to Run, Christopher McDougall’s bestseller about ultrarunning and the Tarahumara of Northern Mexico. Well, I finished reading the book in just a few sittings and loved it. Although if there’s one thing I’m now entirely sure of, it’s that ultrarunning is way too hardcore for me. I enjoy distance running and it’s one of my focuses for 2012, but I’ll be more than satisfied if I complete my goal of two half-marathons and train consistently this year.

For the past couple of weeks I’ve been waking early and spending my mornings at Viveros de Coyoacán, one of my favorite outdoor running paths in Mexico City. I’ve also been adding chia seeds to my green breakfast smoothies and dissolving the seeds in water and lime juice to make the Tarahumara power drink called iskiate, or chia fresca, that McDougall describes in the book — it’s not going to turn me into an ultrarunner like the Tarahumara, but it does provide a nice energy boost at 5:30 AM.

And over the weekend I went ahead and registered for my very first organized running event in Mexico City, a 10K race that’s coming up in March, and I have plans to train for and run in the Father’s Day half-marathon in Tlalpan Park in June.

I’m adapting a 10K training plan that came in the latest issue of Runner’s World Mexico, one of the few magazines that I buy on a regular basis. The magazine publishes a monthly travel column called “En Ruta” which maps out local running routes in different cities each month. I’ve been tearing out the pages from each issue and saving them for when I finally get around to visiting each of the featured cities and can do some sightjogging of my own. After all, there’s nothing quite like exploring a new city on foot, although it doesn’t hurt to pick up some cheap holiday insurance first.

This particular training plan assumes four or five running days per week. After my recent running streak, I realize the importance of consistency to maintaining a regular running schedule. When I start taking days off from training I lose focus and before I know it an entire week has gone by and I’ve hardly moved from my desk. So instead of four or five days, I’m planning on six running days per week — including one easy day — just to keep the momentum going, and Carlos has agreed to join me on Sundays.

I’ve been enjoying getting out early in the morning, it’s one of my favorite times of day and, in my opinion, quite possibly the nicest time of day to be outdoors in Mexico City. There’s a certain quiet peacefulness during the early morning hours. The city’s just waking up, there’s a slight chill in the air and the skies are still relatively clear.

What are some of your fitness goals for 2012 and how do you stay motivated?

Photo credit: via flickr

Before moving to Mexico City, we spent just over a year traveling. A friend recently asked me how we didn’t go broke paying for accommodations. “Doesn’t it get expensive staying in hotels every night for months on end?” she asked. The answer is of course it does. Even staying in hotels here in Mexico, where the rates are typically much less than say, hotels in Liverpool, accommodation costs can quickly add up and it would have been easy to spend a significant portion of our travel budget on hotels. Instead, we managed to save money by staying in alternative accommodations and hotels were often a last resort except for in the most inexpensive of destinations.

Of course there are many alternatives to hotels, and the cost and availability of each can vary depending on where you go. These are some of the types of accommodations that worked out well for us while traveling on a budget in Latin America.

Hostels

Hostels are probably the easiest budget option for travelers and they’re easy to find all throughout Mexico, Central and South America. Before we began our trip, I wasn’t very familiar with the concept of hostels and the thought of sleeping in a crowded dorm with little or no personal space or privacy didn’t really appeal to me all that much. As it turns out, hostels can be a lot more comfortable and accommodating than I had initially thought, not to mention that they’re a great place to meet other travelers. Most hostels have a kitchen so you can prepare your own meals and if you simply can’t get past the idea of sharing a dorm, many also offer a private room option for two or three people that typically works out to just slightly more per person than the cost of dorm beds.

Rooms for Rent

This is another good, inexpensive option assuming you don’t mind sharing a kitchen and sometimes a bathroom. We’ve had some great experiences renting simple rooms while traveling, like our beachfront cabaña in Zipolite, our room on the lake in San Pedro and the month we spent in a guesthouse in Antigua that not only doubled as a mariachi-themed tourist restaurant, but put us right in the middle of all the action during Semana Santa. We’ve also had some not so great experiences, so it’s important to know what you’re getting yourself into when you agree to rent a room from someone. Take a good look around and try to get a feel for the atmosphere and people you’ll be sharing the space with before making any final decisions, especially for longer stays.

Short-term Apartment Rentals

Similar to renting a room but with more privacy, short-term apartment rentals offer many the conveniences of being at home while traveling. They offer a nice break from the constant moving around and tend to be a much cheaper option for longer stays. They’re also a great way to get a feel for what it might be like to actually live in the place you’re visiting. We stayed in several short-term apartment rentals while traveling, my favorite being our month-long rental in Oaxaca, and have always gone the independent route when seeking them out (as opposed to booking through a travel booking site). Listings online, in local papers or on bulletin boards in coffee shops and language schools and recommendations from other travelers are a great place to start.

Bed and Breakfasts

Aside from the occasional bed and breakfast-style inn that we encountered while traveling in Latin America, the majority of my experience staying at bed and breakfasts occurred on a recent trip to visit a friend in Scotland. I spent the first half of my visit in the city, staying with her in her flat instead of spending money on Edinburgh hotels, and the second half of my visit was spent exploring the Scottish highlands while staying in bed and breakfasts. I really enjoyed the social aspect of bed and breakfasts and getting to know our hosts. In many instances, it really was just like staying in someone’s home. For shorter stays, bed and breakfasts are ideal – a great way to gain insight into the local culture and a chance to learn from and interact with the locals.

What are some of your preferred alternatives to hotels? Share your tips for saving money on travel accommodations in the comments below. 

Photo credit: via flickr

Valentine’s Day is right around the corner, and as much as I’d love to book a quick flight out to the coast, something tells me we’ll be spending the holiday a bit closer to home this year. Here are four weekend getaways near Mexico City.

Valle de Bravo

Often called the “Switzerland of Mexico,” the magic town of Valle de Bravo with its forests, mountains and lakefront views is a favorite weekend retreat from the capital. The lakefront resorts offer a variety of spa treatments, yoga, meditation, golf, hiking and watersports. Valle de Bravo is located just minutes from the nearby monarch butterfly sanctuary at Piedra Herrada and serves as a great jumping off point for visiting the reserve; the best time to visit is between November and February. Limited domestic and international flights arrive at the nearby airport in Toluca.

Malinalco

Another of Mexico’s pueblos mágicos, or magic towns, Malinalco is the only destination mentioned here that I have yet to visit, and for that reason alone I think it might be where we’re headed this Valentine’s Day. I’m told that the drive to Malinalco, especially south of Toluca, is quite scenic. Malinalco’s mountain setting makes it one of the most picturesque towns in the region and some nice shops, boutique hotels and fine dining round out the mix. A small Aztec temple, said to be one of the best-preserved in the region, overlooks the town and can be reached via a short, steep hike.

Tepoztlán

Yet another of Mexico’s pueblo mágicos, Tepotzlán is believed to be the birthplace of Quetzalcóatl, the Aztec serpent god. Claiming a special creative energy, Tepotzlán blends well-preserved indigenous cultures with New Age beliefs and spirituality. Over the past few decades Tepoztlán has gained a reputation as somewhat of an international post-hippie mecca. Some of the nicest places to stay can be found just outside of town and visitors can browse the weekend craft market, considered to be one of the best in central Mexico, and make the steep 2km hike up the mountainside to check out the Tepozteco Pyramid, or Piramide de Tepozteco, that overlooks the town.

Cuernavaca

Known as the “Land of Eternal Spring” thanks to its year-round pleasant climate, the city of Cuernavaca is a popular weekend destination among wealthy Mexico City residents and also attracts its fair share of foreigners. In addition to museums, high-end spas, elaborate haciendas, botanical gardens and a signature Percy Clifford designed golf course, there are also some nice boutique hotels, luxury resorts and fine dining options all located within city limits. A visit to nearby Xochicalco makes a great side trip, or spend the day following the legendary Ruta de Zapata from Anenecuilco to Chinameca.

Where will you be spending Valentine’s Day this year?

Photo credits: 1, 2, 3, 4

Los Cabos is gearing up for another busy year with the recent launch of its new tourism marketing campaign, Time2Cabo, and plans to host world leaders at the 2012 G20 Summit in June. The Los Cabos municipality, which includes Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo, the Los Cabos Corridor and the surrounding areas, is internationally known as one of Mexico’s top resort destinations. From private villas and spas to world class restaurants and 5 star golf resorts, here are five reasons to visit Los Cabos.

Luxury

Los Cabos which has always been one of Mexico’s most exclusive resort destinations. Los Cabos first gained its reputation as a high-end holiday destination in the 1950′s when it began attracting Hollywood celebrities. In the mid-1970′s the Mexican government began to take notice and invest in the region. Today, timeshares, private villas and lavish all-inclusive resorts and spas, many with private beaches and very upscale amenities, line the roughly 20 mile tourist corridor that extends along the southern coast of the Baja Peninsula from Cabo San Lucas to San José del Cabo.

Nature and Wildlife

One of the most popular activities in Los Cabos is a whale watching excursion to witness the annual grey whale migration that takes place each year between January and March in the waters just off the coast of the Baja Peninsula. It’s also possible to spot dolphins, sea lions and hammerhead sharks. Another of the area’s most impressive attractions is the series of rock formations known as Land’s End. Bird watchers can enjoy a visit to one of the local estuaries or a trip out into the desert where it’s possible to encounter many of the bird species that migrate to the Los Cabos area each year.

Golf

One of the top golf destinations in North America, Los Cabos offers an impressive variety of championship courses and signature courses designed by the likes of Jack Nicklaus, Robert Trent Jones, Jr., Tom Weiskopf and  Pete Dye. Due in part to it’s year-round dependable weather, Los Cabos is increasingly gaining a reputation as one of the world’s premier destinations for golf breaks and some of the most scenic courses in Los Cabos are located along the coastal tourist corridor overlooking the Sea of Cortez.

Sportfishing

Dubbed the “Marlin Capital of the World,” the waters surrounding Los Cabos, both along the Sea of Cotez east of San José del Cabo and to the south where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean, provide some of the finest sportfishing in the world. Chartered fishing trips are offered by numerous outfitters in the Los Cabos area and options range from local fishing boats known as pangas to fully equipped deluxe cruisers.

Dining and Nightlife

Los Cabos offers award winning fine dining and is home to a wide variety of world-class restaurants serving up delicious local and international cuisines. Fresh seafood is a local specialty. Cabo San Lucas in particular, is famous for its impressive nightlife scene and bars and clubs stay open well into the early morning hours. From exclusive nightclubs known for attracting big name celebrities to small palapa style bars, there are plenty of places to party the night away or simply kick back and enjoy the ambiance.

What’s your number one reason for visiting Los Cabos?

Photo credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5