We then sat down for a small tasting before dinner. It was a line-up of Clos de la Roche, starting with 2012 which had lovely red fruits, very typical of the vintage. Then the 2011, it has a really smoky character but great grip and intensity. However the final wine in the line-up was the magnificent 2010, this had huge depth and power and a wine that will only be hitting its stride in a decade or 2 but I’m sure it will be worth the wait.

With dinner, we kicked off with 2011 Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos des Mont Luisants, this was served in Magnum and was absolutely delicious. It was very elegant with lovely mineral grip. This wine is made from 100% Aligoté and the vines are only 100 years old!

We then drank 3 pairs of Clos de la Roche, the first pairing was 2002 which was big and broad, fine red fruits but way too young but it will be amazing one day, the 2001 was so different in style but ready to drink with lovely mineral character a classic 2001 this is such an underrated vintage.

We then had 2000 which had lovely soft red berried fruit and again a huge surprise from a vintage which is now really stepping into its stride, followed by 2007 which was magnificent, drinking beautifully now with lots of secondary flavours so absolutely in its prime.

The final pairing was 1999 and 1998. The 1999 was a dark animal and brooding, such a classic vintage. The 1998 is much purer in style, really delicious and still loads of life ahead of it.

After all that, we finished off with 2011 Corton Charlemagne in Magnum seriously good and wonderful with the cheese.

1990 Latour
I found the Latour rather evolved which I wasn’t totally expecting. The colour has started to soften and the youthful flavours have been replaced with touches of leather and cigarbox and subtle mature berry. In the mouth Latour’s noticeable tannins that are normally evident in most great vintages have melted away and the lowish acidity has allowed this wine to perhaps evolve quicker than one might expect normally from a great Latour. A successful and attractive wine it certainly is, but in the context of the vintage and what it is up against, I didn’t regard it as one of the top releases.

We then moved onto the best line up of whites ever produced for this annual event. First up the two outliers. a Zind Humbrect Clos Hauserer 1990 in magnum, an ageless Riesling belying its 26 years of age (17) described by Mr G as “a powder keg of creamed diesel”, and a Gaja Alteni di Brassica 1994. This 100% Sauvignon Blanc stole comparisons to the great Pavillon Blanc de Margaux. I am not sure I would go that far but an amazingly youthful 22 year old SB. “Shock and awe”. Amazing acidity still present. I’m not sure how much/often I personally want to drink it but you have to doff your cap. (17.5).

Then onto the Chardonnays. A really impressive line up. First up a rich, intense, broad, creamy and complex Batard Montrachet Domaine Leflaive 1997 (18), then a magnum Corton Charlemagne Bonneau du Martray 2001, this had lovely drive, minerality and a refreshing finish. Lots of time ahead, especially out of a magnum (17.5). Then another Leflaive, this time the superb Batard Montrachet Domaine Leflaive 2002. Unmistakably Leflaive, a wine with energy, minerality and vibrant acidity, and a long and interesting life ahead. (18). Next up the eventual WWOTN, from magnum, a Batard Montrachet Domaine Ramonet 2002. This was gorgeous, sweeter and riper than the Leflaive and singing like a canary in its drinking window (19). But we weren’t done yet as we moved into a Le Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche, Joseph Drouhin 2005. (18) This note came to me from the generous contributor: “Light yellow color, opulent fruit aromas of pineapple, honey, honeysuckle and almond. Rich minerality across the full palate and some hints of baked bread like in a fine aged champagne. A very well balanced and highly defined wine which is well integrated, robust and big but elegantly beautiful. Begin to drink now and for the next 5-10 years.” A great array of white Burgundies, all of which could have taken the crown on another night. We did have one more white wine, Maritavora Reserva Bianco 2005 from the Douro, which impressed with its freshness and youthful bright fruit. (16).

We then moved onto the reds, and as in previous years we decided to start with the oldest. I have to say the first three wines all really impressed. Ch La Lagune 1916 was the first wine, and what a surprise that was. At 100 years of age this was in spectacularly youthful shape, with lots of fresh fruit. In a word amazing, and tasted like something decades younger (18). Ch Branaire Ducru 1928 – another incredibly youthful wine which had been reconditioned at the Chateau. I felt the fruit quality was more interesting and better here (vs the La Lagune) for another old soul. (18.5) C.V.N.E. Imperial Grand Reserva Rioja 1928 – we have had plenty of success at this dinner in previous years with old Spanish wines, and this absolute beauty kept that theme going. This was my favourite of the first three. (19)

Then we had a flight of 1934s. Ch Rausan Segla 1934 was quite funky and showing its age, but improved in the glass and I thought was just by a short head the best of the flight (16). The Ch Talbot 1934 had seen better days, not a lot of life left in there (12). The Ch Mouton Rothschild 1934 sat somewhere between the two, but closer in quality to the Rausan (15.5). Nevertheless a generous contribution from one person who brought all 3 wines from 1934. I asked him for his views on the wines: “The Mouton was by far my favourite with traces of berry incredibly still there as well as the spice and earthy old-wine character”. The room was divided between the Mouton and Rausan. (Worth noting both were second growths at the time).

Then we had an awful bottle, Ch Leoville Barton 1937. Not a wine I know (so I don’t know if this is a particularly poor bottle) nor based on this showing want to ever meet again. Completely gone. (5). Described by someone as “quite a nice cognac”. Nevertheless importantly Crown Wine Cellars was built in 1937 so for that reason it got 5 points and we had to all drain our glasses. Amazingly worse was to follow with a quite horrific magnum of Ch Coutelin Mervelle 1955. Nasty (2). We were in a tricky spot as the next wine, a Barolo Borgogno 1958 was very light coloured and tired. Sadly it had not made the journey to 2016. (13).

Things then picked up. A magnum of a terrific, vibrant, classy Ch Beychevelle 1959 (18.5) was followed by two 1962s, a beautiful, mature, complex Ch Margaux 1962 (18.5) and a Cos d’Estournel 1962 which based on what we tasted on our side of the room was a bit of a step down, showing a bit more age with its fruit gently fading (17.5). Nevertheless we had two bottles of each and the concensus on the other side of the room was that the Cos was better than the Margaux, so clearly some bottle variation. Next up a light, lean, slightly vegetal magnum of Carruades de Lafite 1967 (15).

We then moved into the 1970s. A lovely Pinot Noir (the only one of the night surprisingly) in the shape of a Beaune 1er Cru Maison Leroy 1976 got us going, very pretty indeed (17). This was followed by Ch Lafleur 1978. This is a powerful wine which was still flexing its muscles, and is built for the long haul. Lots of gorgeous sweet fruit there though, definitely hope to see it again (18). Then the Borgogno’s made their second appearance of the night in the shape of a Barolo Riserva Borgogno 1978, which had come direct from the estate. This was in lovely condition, very pretty up top, but with a bit of power in the engine room (17). The final wine of the 1970s was a delicious Ch Palmer 1979. Clearly a very strong performance in quite a tricky (cool) vintage, an iron fist in a velvet glove. Absolutely ready to go, lovely (17.5).

Next we had lovely flight of 1982s. Ch Gruaud Larose 1982 (2x75cls) was showing really well (my wine). Opened and decanted at 7pm and served around 10pm this old favourite from the 1982 vintage continues to impress, currently in its sweet spot of maturity. It’s a big, powerful quite dense wine which grew in the glass. (19) Ch Pichon Lalande 1982 from magnum continues to justify its reputation as one of the wines of the vintage. Less opulent than in its youth this great wine combines complexity and balance, a wine in total harmony that is growing old gracefully (19). Finally, also out of magnum, we had a Ch Cos d’Estournel 1982 which was the wildest of the three, with hints of spice and slightly cooler fruit. Not the most profound of the three, but a lovely drop nonetheless (18).

Then onto a couple of stickies, a nameless unidentifiable Hungarian Tokaji made in the last 100 years is all we were told – and it was delicious. (17) Ch d’ Yquem 1998 had lots of youthful sweetness, honey, caramel and that sort of golden fruit. Lovely without being sublime (17.5).

After a number of votes the WOTN was finally won by the Ch La Lagune 1916. Age often beats quality when the votes are cast. Democracy doesn’t always get the right result.

Over the past thirty years it has evolved into something very different. Today it consists of three days of blind tasting reviewing appellation by appellation the Bordeaux vintage bottled two years before and is now arguably one of the most influential and respected tastings of its kind. In the evening corks are pulled from a few older gems from Bordeaux and Burgundy (sadly not going as far back to 1945).

The tasters are 18 wine professionals including respected journalists Jancis Robinson MW, Steven Spurrier and Neal Martin and 15 of the UK’s leading wine merchants and wine buyers, including six Masters of Wine. We all converge in the wonderful surrounds of Southwold on the Suffolk coast and are welcome recipients of the kind hospitality of Adnams at the Crown Hotel. The event is beautifully hosted by their wine buyer Rob Chase, one of life’s great enthusiasts.

So what was in store for us this year? The 2012 vintage: not a naturally recognised vintage and having only just been bottled in 2014, the wines are still babies. In total almost 350 wines are tasted, all blind and alongside their appellation peers.

Yes it is somewhat of a marathon, but extraordinarily good fun. Each taster has to give his score before the wines are revealed and there is absolutely no conferring. Everybody’s opinion is totally respected and the fascination is in seeing that whilst all of us assess the individual characteristics in very similar ways, each taster has their own preferences. Some like wines of subtlety and refinement, others are at the other end of the spectrum enjoying power and strength, but the scores themselves reflect the overall balance and quality of any given wine.

At the end of our three days we left in very high spirits. Unanimously it was agreed that 2012 is a wine drinkers’ vintage. Whilst it isn’t the most complex of years, it has produced deliciously appealing wines. The best have generosity and succulence, although without the layered nuances of a great year. The style of this vintage gives real pleasure and a youthful drinkability.

Inevitably there were peaks and troughs; one of the great joys was to see the return to form of St Emilion. The days of over-extraction and excess are hopefully of a bygone era. For the second year in a row we enjoyed the more poised and subtle flavours that make St Emilion so appealing. Troplong Mondot, Beauséjour Bécot and Figeac showed real class and Trottevieille showed huge promise.  The Pomerols – as one would expect – were a delight, with a flow of delicious balance and class. Petrus exuded the quality of its unique origins and I loved Vieux Château Certan, which was one of my wines of the event; La Conseillante, Gazin and La Fleur Petrus were equally fine.

In the Médoc the quality was slightly less uniform, depending on individual estates’ harvest dates and the ripeness levels of their Cabernets. But the best vineyards still came to the fore. Amongst the 2^nd wines and lower classified growths, Gloria, Haut Batailley, Batailley, Phélan Ségur and Moulin Riche will provide delicious drinking. Other highlights (outside the 1^st growths) were Issan in Margaux; Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande and Lynch Bages in Pauillac; and in St Julien Léoville Poyferré, St Pierre and Gruaud Larose represent very good price quality and showed extremely well. In Pessac Léognan Ch Smith Haut Lafitte was very good. And although it was not everybody’s favourite, I really enjoyed the Ch Haut Bailly.

Sadly the weather was not kind to the sweet wine makers and so 2012 is not a vintage to look out for the wines of Sauternes and Barsac.  However the dry white wines are sensational and produced some of the most exciting wines of the three days. The surprise package for the second year in a row was that the top wine (based on aggregate scores) was Ch Bouscaut, although for my palate, it didn’t naturally capture my interest, as it hadn’t last year when I also marked it down. My preferences were more Domaine de Chevalier, Smith Haut Lafitte, Malartic Lagravière, La Mission Haut Brion Blanc and Pavillon Blanc, which were superb.

A fabulous three days as always and we owe an enormous gratitude to all the Bordeaux Châteaux for their help and support to allow such a unique and special tasting to take place.

My Top wines of the Tasting:

St Estèphe
Calon Segur
Phélan Ségur
Cos d’Estournel

Pauillac
Ch Mouton Rothschild
Ch Pichon Lalande
Ch Pichon Baron
Ch Lynch Bages
Ch Grand Puy Lacoste
Ch Haut Batailley
Ch Batailley

Margaux
Ch Margaux
Ch d’Issan

Pessac Léognan
Ch La Mission Haut Brion
Ch Haut Brion
Ch Haut Bailly
Ch Smith Haut Lafitte

Pessac Léognan Blanc
Ch La Mission Haut Brion
Ch Smith Haut Lafitte
Ch Malartic Lagravière
Dne de Chevalier

St Emilion
Ch Cheval Blanc
Ch Figeac
Ch Trottevieille
Ch Beauséjour Bécot

Pomerol
Ch Petrus
Ch Gazin
Vieux Château Certan
Ch La Conseillante

As the list progresses it is not meant to be contentious, but fun and all about enjoyment, because after all that is what wine is about: pleasure, friends and memories. I hope you enjoy this section in our website. If there are wines that you think I should include or taste, do let me know, there nothing I love more than making discoveries….

2000 Ch Léoville Las Cases 2ème Cru St Julien
Just occasionally we are all lucky enough to drink a bottle of wine that stops us dead in our tracks. I had such a moment just a few days ago. Enjoying a wonderful dinner with some of the most illustrious wines from the great 2000 vintage, there it was: Bam! 2000 Ch. Léoville Las Cases St Julien – wow what a wine. 1st growth quality in every way but name…

“Super Second” is common wine-speak today for those great 2nd growth properties with 1st growth aspirations and quality ideals. It is fair to say that Léoville Las Cases was possibly the first to assume such a title. In a similar way to Ch Palmer (nestling alongside the vineyards of Ch Margaux) and Ch Cos d’Estournel (marching alongside Ch  lafite), Las Cases assumes one of the greatest vineyard locations in the northern Médoc bang next door to a Pauillac great, Ch Latour. Indeed, whilst its vineyards sit in the commune of St Julien, for many it has a closer resemblance in style to the bold and robust fruit characteristics of Pauillac as opposed to the more delicately scented fruit characteristics that one finds in St Julien.

In the 18th century the famous estates of Léoville Las Cases, Léoville Barton and Léoville Poyferré were a single property – Léoville – making one of the Médoc’s largest productions. But due the vagaries of French inheritance laws and the Revolution, 25% of the estate was split in the late 1700s to create what is today Léoville Barton. Then again in 1740 the equivalent of another 25% was separated to create Léoville Poyferre. Today Poyferré and Las Cases still share a courtyard and chais where the Château stands. The 50% that remained makes up what is today Ch Léoville Las Cases comprising  95 ha sitting alongside the Gironde river (arguably where the very best terroir in the Médoc lies). It is a substantial domaine planted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and a small proportion of Petit Verdot. The gravel soils and unique microclimate due to its close proximity to the river provide the perfect conditions for growing and maturing grapes, creating one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines particularly in the finest of years. Sometimes I find its wines can almost be too robust and powerful; the magnitude of weight and structure can sometimes be a little overbearing. But in 2000 all the component parts fit into place to create one of the most rewarding wines that Bordeaux can produce.

The 2000 Vintage: Whilst it initially got off to a slow start, the extraordinary months of July, August and September with slightly less rainfall than average helped to create some of the finest Médoc wines in the past 25 years. The berries had thick skins, concentrated flavours and managed to retain an ever-important freshness and life. All key ingredients in the making of a great wine. And so to the wine itself.

Tasting Note: Deep brooding opaque colour, hiding its 15 years of age. Wonderfully complex aromas of liquorice, plums and hints of roasted fruits. In the palate this is a wine of layered power as its dense dark berried fruit flavours fill and coat the mouth. This is a wine of extraordinary concentration and has the brooding weight that one so often associates with its illustrious neighbour, Ch Latour. Rich and beautifully full, with hints of cocoa, Valrhona chocolate, and wonderfully sweet currant fruits, whilst still remaining forever fresh and lively. Undoubtedly a delicious glass today, but one really feels that this can develop further in the bottle over the next 5 years and has the ability to age comfortably up to 2030 and even beyond. An absolutely great wine. 19/20

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Including villages, Premiers and Grands Crus from:
Gevrey Chambertin: Drouhin Laroze, Fourrier, Sérafin
Morey Saint Denis: Clos des Lambrays
Chambolle Musigny: Louis Boillot, Ghislaine Barthod
Vougeot: Hudelot Noëllat
Vosne Romanée: Jean Grivot, Méo-Camuzet
Nuits Saint Georges: Arlot
Savigny Lès Beaunes: Simon Bize, Chandon de Briailles
Volnay: Joseph Voillot
Pommard: Jean-Marc Boillot, Comte Armand
Meursault: Jean-Philippe Fichet, Patrick Javillier
Chassagne Montrachet: Paul Pillot
St Aubin: Marc Colin

The Vougeot Clos du Village is an absolute joy – one of the finest, and rarest, village wines in the Côte de Nuits. It is a tiny parcel from which Benjamin only makes 2 barrels. Stephen Brook at Decanter has picked it as one of the best value wines of the vintage.

And what’s more, these are all packed in 6s, so the perfect format for trying a new producer if Leroux is new to you. The critics’ praise below is effusive, and we concur: his wines will not disappoint.

Vougeot Clos du Village 2014
£155.00 per 6 bottles IB
Sitting to the north of the Clos de Vougeot, this small clos makes a wine of complexity and intrigue. Masses of mocha, plum and autumnal fruits, with a central tannic core. Whilst not as powerful as its Grand Cru neighbour it still shows the high class of its terroir. Drink 2018-2026. David Roberts MW

The 2014 Vougeot Clos du Villages has a pretty, quite feminine bouquet that opens with aeration – redcurrant and cranberry fruit emerging with time. The palate is juicy and ripe, good density with a slightly meaty finish. Benjamin used to keep this for himself, but fortunately it is now being commercialized. This is certainly worth checking out as it seems to be brimming with freshness and character, that bitter cherry note keeping you on your twinkle toes. Drink 2017-2029. 89-91 points Neal Martin

Sprightly berry nose, with a touch of vanilla. Juicy and succulent on the palate but has vigour too, plus ample acidity and zest. A pretty wine but not fragile, showing youthful charm but has some energy too. Balanced and long. Drink now – 2022. 91 points, Stephen Brook, Decanter
(Selected for Burgundy Best Value 2014)

Gevrey Chambertin Aux Etelois
£190.00 per 6 bottles IB
Not a bad location for a village wine, next door to Griotte and Charmes Chambertin! A very lovely wine, with lots of raspberry and floral aromas. A textured style, with a volume which fills the mouth. Not powerful, but extremely giving, with a charming finish. Drink 2018-2025. David Roberts MW

The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Etelois has a lovely bouquet that is very floral, adorned with elegant redcurrant and cranberry. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity. There is a slightly rustic core and you could argue that it is conservative before being seduced with a detailed and saline finish. Drink 2017-2027. 87-89 points Neal Martin

This is in a little depression. It is under Griotte. So expressive. A full, rich and fruity village wine. Juicy compact energy. Succulent bramble fruit; supple tannins and then so fresh on the finish. A supercharged village wine. Drink from 2019. 16.25 points Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing

Chambolle Musigny
£210.00 per 6 bottles IB
These vines lie right next door to Bonnes Mares, and as a result this wine has a certain similarity, focusing more on dark fruits than typically Chambolle cherry fruits. This has richness and real star quality. Lovely sweet ripe fruit and a rounded full finish. Drink 2018-2027. David Roberts MW

The 2014 Chambolle-Musigny Villages, from the village sector of Les Véroilles, offers touches of wilted violet petals on the nose. There is nice transparency here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp red cherry and strawberry fruit, and the 70% whole cluster is completely unnoticeable. What an excellent village cru. Drink 2017-2029. 88-90 points Neal Martin

Les Veroilles; old vines. Floral, light and aromatic. It is a balletic wine, pirouetting on the palate. Light and finely hewn and high toned. Just a delight. 16.25 points Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing

So where does 2013 sit amongst recent excellent releases? The summers of 2011 and 2012 were exceptionally hot in the daytime but there were considerable fluctuations in temperature that prevented water stress in the vine and a repeat of the problems encountered in 2003. These are two successful years in their own right that will show well in youth but cellar for over 10 years.

In 2013, the growing season saw fewer extremes and more consistency throughout the year. After a mild winter there was rain interspersed at the optimal times and although the summer was hot, it was below the seasonal average and the sporadic periods of precipitation kept the vineyards well nourished. The Cabernet grapes arrived from the vineyard in an optimum state of ripeness.

This is a very fine year, potentially the most significant since 2006, and one that will require considerable patience. Ultimately it will outlive the 2011 and 2012 and develop into a true classic.

2013 Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido
£525.00 per 6 bottles IB
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc

The exciting 2013 Bolgheri Sassicaia is shaping up to be an epic rendition of this celebrated wine. You get a clear sense of the quality of fruit with your first twirl of the glass. Even at this young stage, the wine shows impressive intensity and elegance. It boasts dark fruit nuances with bold cherry and blackberry that will gain focus and traction with time. Oak notes of vanilla and cinnamon are beginning to show their first signs of mellow integration. This was a cool but classic vintage that saw enhanced aromas, acidity and all the qualities that lead to healthy longevity. The 2013 vintage promises greatness. Drink 2018-2040.
95-97 points, Monica Larner, Wine Advocate

Tasted from separate lots in barrel, the 2013 Sassicaia is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. Rich, layered and expansive on the palate, the 2013 possesses remarkable depth, spherical texture and fine, silky tannins that wrap around the finish. A first sample, taken from a parcel in Mandrione shows remarkable perfume, while a second sample, from 40 year-old vines in Castiglioncello is all about density and power. There is a lot to look forward to here, that much is obvious. Drink 2023-2043.
93-96+ points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com

Background to the most celebrated ‘Super Tuscan’

In the 1920s, the Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta dreamt of creating a thoroughbred wine in the hope of emulating the success of Bordeaux on the Tyrrhenian coast. Identifying the similarities in soil between the gravelly west coast of Tuscany and Graves in Bordeaux, he set about experimenting with French varieties. The first few vintages weren’t warmly received which wasn’t encouraging. Used to to light, local wines, critics simply weren’t accustomed to the richer more complex flavours that the Cabernet grape offredand thus the vintages between 1958 to 1967 were created purely for private consumption. After extensive ageing the Marchese soon realised that his wines improved considerably and his friends persuaded him to release his wines commercially. The 1968 vintage was released onto the market to universal acclaim and became the first of what were to become known as the ‘Super Tuscans’. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Sassicaia is now widely regarded as one of the world’s greatest Cabernet Sauvignon blends to be produced outside of the Bordeaux 1st Growths. The 1985 vintage was awarded 100 points by Robert Parker and its iconic reputation was cemented.

‘Super Tuscan’ market report

The demand for exclusive Italian wines, centred around the ‘Super Tuscans’ and Brunello di Montalcino, shows no sign of abating. A combination of dynamic, forward thinking wine making and a succession of good and great vintages in the last decade have drawn buyers in. At a time when Bordeaux has fallen from favour, the wines from the Tuscan coast have captured the market’s imagination and Sassicaia, alongside Masseto, leads the pack.

“In August 2015 Italy overtook Burgundy to become the second most traded regional group of wines – after Bordeaux – in 2015. As of the end of October 2015, its average monthly share (year to date) is 7.1%. This is a steady increase on previous years: in 2014, it represented 5.1% of activity by value. Back in 2010, it accounted for just 0.9%.

Although Italy’s relative importance on the secondary market can partly be accounted for by Bordeaux’s decline, activity for Italian wines has also been increasing in absolute terms: value traded in 2015 increased by 34% on 2014. Activity is dominated by the youngest wines: 80.1% of value traded has been for the 2009-12 vintages; less than 6% is from those older than 2006.” LivEx

“From the selection of grapes to the ageing of our cuvees in the cellars, patience and an understanding of time are fundamental values we respect. Krug won’t be hurried. Time is one of our strengths.” Eric Lebel

If the decision to produce 2002 Krug was uncharacteristically swift, the result is anything but; it is unmistakably Krug. An unusually generous growing season, with near ideal conditions for grape maturation, meant the fruit was harvested in robust health. The blend itself (40% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay, 21% Pinot Meunier) has benefitted from fourteen years gentle ageing in the Krug cellars and we are now delighted to offer this stunning champagne for the first time.

2002 Krug
“Bright and limpid in the glass, the merest hint of maturity in the pale gold hue. On the nose rich, biscuit notes play with aromas of fresh citrus fruits and a hint of smokiness. Taut, it needs to be coaxed out. On the palate notes of peachy, white fruit from the Chardonnay marry gorgeously with the darker, haunting smokiness of the Pinot fruit. At first reticent, the wine’s tautness belying its staggering concentration, after time a citrus intensity reveals itself, the creamy mousse kept in check by rapier like acidity. Beautifully balanced, the lengthy finish is mouth-watering. This is mightily impressive.” Toby Herbertson, Goedhuis

“The Krug 2002 vintage Champagne is a mix of bright Welsh gold and pale green lights and has a perfect flow of tiny bubbles. What aromatics-spring flowers from well-sited Pinot Meunier, and exoticism in the Chardonnay. The beating heart of the wine is powerful, poised and very complex Pinot Noir, still biding its time to majestically unfold. Magnificent. Drink 2018-2050” 98 points Decanter 

 “…This was tasted immediately after Krug 2003 and was so much more discreet and savoury than the 2003 on the nose. It is chock-full of acidity and life, is really muscular and much more intellectual. For the moment the 2002 is less obviously fruity than the 2003 – clearly a champagne for long ageing – like many other 2002s – but much more backward than any I can think of immediately. There is nothing in excess; a great example of the Krug art of assemblage. Very solid and concentrated but not heavy at all. The finish is notably dry. This may be an intellectual wine but it’s certainly not hard work…I look forward very much to following the development of this exceptional wine. Drink 2016-2030” 19 points Jancis Robinson MW