goldfinches and canaries

With Smart Canary Care You'll Make Your Canary S-I-N-G!

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Wed, 09 Feb 2011 12:55:00 +0000

"Welcome. I want to show you how to quickly and easily use SMART Canary Care to keep your bird happy and healthy.

Soon you'll be using these simple tips like a pro on subjects like health care, canary disease, canary foods, training tips, increasing singing, AND bonding and communicating with your bird."

The secret to your canary's happiness is no secret at all. The information you need is right at your finger tips...right here--right now...at CanaryAdvisor.com and in the Canary Tips! E-zine.

1. Provide all your canary's needs like...

food

water

housing

health care

2. Then allow some joy into your canary's world such as...

special delicious and nutritious treats

allowing him out of the cage for a bout of flying

3. Plus...communicate with your canary...

speaking with soft words

using gentle body movements.

Great canary care starts with knowledge. Your canary is depending on YOU to provide all his needs and wants. So come along with me now and lets take a look at CanaryAdvisor.com's helpful articles.

So come along with me now and lets take a look at CanaryAdvisor.com's helpful articles.

You'll discover how proper canary care can get your pet canary bird into strong physical shape and develop a healthy confident attitude.

Plus proper feeding for optimal nutrition, the right snack foods to offer...and what foods can kill him. Also, false information your pet shop attendant may be giving you...

I'll reveal hard-to-find details about...
...where to snag the best deals on cages, supplies, and bird food.

I'll point you to great websites where you can search for a canary for sale.

And learn to read your pet birds body language...What is he trying to tell you?

Just click on one of the links below and discover canary care that will help you become "family" to your pet canary bird...

And by the way, don't forget to sign up for CanaryAdvisor.com's Canary Tips! Newsletter.

Canary Tips! is free and full of helpful advice on taking care of your canary that may not be featured in this website.

House Finch

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:41:00 +0000

The attractive house finch is one of the more common and recognizable species throughout the United States. Originally a “western” species of semiarid environments, it was introduced in the east in the 1940s; it has now expanded its range and spread to virtually every state, as well as a multitude of habitats. It has become very common in suburban areas and is easily attracted in large numbers to seed feeders. Polytypic. Length 6" (15 cm).

Identification The house is a relatively small Carpodacus finch with a longish, slightly notched tail, short wings, and a distinctly small bill with a curved culmen. Male: the breast, rump, and front of the head are typically red, but the color can vary to orange or occasionally yellow. The red breast is clearly demarcated from a whitish belly with dark streaks. The top of crown and auriculars are brown. Back is brown and noticeably streaked. The wings have 2 pale indistinct wing bars each. Female: she is much drabber, lacking the all-red coloration of the male. The brown body has distinct, blurry streaking above and below. She lacks the distinct pale eyebrow found on the male.

Geographic Variation Of the at least 13 described subspecies, 4 occur in North America north of Mexico. Clinal variation where populations come together, as well as individual variation and effects of diet on plumage coloration complicate the separation of different subspecies. Subspecies frontalis, the most widespread throughout the United States, sports a generally more orange-red to yellow breast and has less distinct streaking on the belly. Both the clementisfrom the Channel Islands in California and the potosinus from central Texas are brighter red, with bolder streaking on a whiter belly.

Similar Species Identifying the male and female house from other Carpodacusfinches requires care. The male house differs from the male purple finch not only by having a smaller, more curved bill, but also by lacking a distinct eyebrow, having a brown cap and auricular patch, and being heavily streaked on belly. Told from male Cassin’s finch by brown cap and eyebrow and curved bill. Other tell-tale differences between the species include the Cassin’s pink cheek and pinkish tone on its back, and on female and immature Cassin’s, the much finer and crisp streaks on its belly. The male common rosefinch is more rose-pink overall and lacks distinct streaking on its belly. The female finches are more problematic. The female house has a very plain face, unlike the purple and Cassin’s, which both show distinct eyebrows. The female house tends to have browner underparts than the 2 as well, with blurry streaks below. Also note the house’s smaller, more curved bill. The female common rosefinch looks similar, but she is drabber, with less distinct streaking below.

Voice Call: most commonly a whistled wheat. Song: lively and high-pitched, consisting of varied 3-note phrases that usually end in a nasal wheeer.

Status and Distribution Very common, often abundant resident throughout much of the U.S., extending north into much of extreme southern Canada and south into Mexico. Both western and introduced eastern populations appear to be spreading. Migration: some northern populations appear to be migratory, moving south in winter.

Population The human modification of natural habitats, particularly the increase of seed feeders throughout the east, greatly benefits the house finch populations. Only natural island populations appear to be threatened.

Lovebirds

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Mon, 08 Nov 2010 08:49:00 +0000

A Lovebird is one of nine species of the genus Agapornis (Greek: αγάπη agape'love'; όρνις ornis 'bird'). They are a social and affectionate small parrot. Eight species are native to the African continent, while the Grey-headed Lovebird is native to Madagascar. Their name stems from the parrots' strong, monogamous pair bonding and the long periods in which paired birds will spend sitting together. Lovebirds live in small flocks and eat fruit, vegetables, grasses and seed. Black-winged Lovebirdsalso eat insects and figs, and the Black-collared Lovebirds have a special dietary requirement for native figs, making them problematic to keep in captivity.

Some species are kept as pets, and several color mutations were selectively bred in aviculture. Their average lifespan is 10 to 15 years.^[

Description

Lovebirds are 13 to 17 centimeters in length and from 40 to 60 grams in weight. They are among the smallest parrots, characterized by a stocky build, a short blunt tail, and a relatively large, sharp beak. Wildtype lovebirds are mostly green with a variety of colors on their upper body, depending on the species. The Fischer's Lovebird, Black-cheeked Lovebird, and the Masked Lovebird have a prominent white ring around their eyes. The Abyssinian Lovebird, the Madagascar Lovebird, and the Red-faced Lovebird are sexually dimorphic. Many colour mutant varieties have been produced by selective breeding of the species that are popular in aviculture.

Taxonomy

The lovebird genus comprises nine species of which five are monotypic and four are divided into subspecies.^[2] Eight of them are native in the mainland of Africa and the Madagascar Lovebird is native to Madagascar. In the wild the different species are separated geographically.

Traditionally, lovebirds are divided in 3 groups:

1. the sexually dimorphic species: Madagascar, Abyssinian, and Red-headed Lovebird
2. the intermediate species: Peach-faced Lovebird
3. the white-eye-ringed species: Masked , Fischer's, Lilian's, and Black-cheeked Lovebirds

However, this division is not fully supported by phylogenetic studies, as the species of the dimorphic group are not grouped together in a single clade.

Species and subspecies:^[4]

Rosy-faced Lovebird, Agapornis roseicollis, (Vieillot, 1818) — or Peach-faced Lovebird
- Agapornis roseicollis catumbella, B.P. Hall, 1952
- Agapornis roseicollis roseicollis, (Vieillot 1818)
Yellow-collared Lovebird, Agapornis personatus, Reichenow, 1887 — or Masked Lovebird
Fischer's Lovebird, Agapornis fischeri, Reichenow, 1887
Lilian's Lovebird, Agapornis lilianae, Shelley, 1894 — or Nyasa Lovebird
Black-cheeked Lovebird, Agapornis nigrigenis, W.L. Sclater, 1906
Grey-headed Lovebird, Agapornis canus, (Gmelin, 1788) — or Madagascar Lovebird
- Agapornis canus ablectaneus, Bangs, 1918
- Agapornis canus canus, (Gmelin, 1788)
Black-winged Lovebird, Agapornis taranta, (Stanley, 1814) — or Abyssinian Lovebird
Red-headed Lovebird, Agapornis pullarius, (Linnaeus, 1758) — or Red-faced Lovebird
- Agapornis pullarius pullarius, (Linnaeus, 1758)
- Agapornis pullarius ugandae, Neumann, 1908
Black-collared Lovebird, Agapornis swindernianus, (Kuhl, 1820) — or Swindern's Lovebird

Agapornis swindernianus emini, Neumann, 1908
Agapornis swindernianus swindernianus, (Kuhl, 1820)
Agapornis swindernianus zenkeri, Reichenow, 1895

Species

Species (wild-types)
Common and binomial names	Photograph	Description^[2]	Range
Yellow-collared Lovebird or Masked Lovebird (Agapornis personata)		14 cm (5.5 in) long. Mostly green, black head, yellow upper chest continuous with yellow collar, red beak, white eyerings	Northeast Tanzania; introduced to Burundiand Kenya
Fischer's Lovebird (Agapornis fischeri)		14 cm (5.5 in) long. Mostly green, orange upper body and head, blue lower back and rump, red beak, white eyerings	South and southeast of Lake Victoria in northern Tanzania
Lilian's Lovebird or Nyasa Lovebird (Agapornis lilianae)		13 cm (5 in) long. Mostly green including green back and green rump, orange head, red beak, white eyerings	Malawi
Black-cheeked Lovebird (Agapornis nigrigenis)		14 cm (5.5 in) long. Mostly green, brownish-black cheeks and throat, reddish-brown forehead and forecrown, orange upper chest, red beak, white eyerings	Zambia
Rosy-faced Lovebird or Peach-faced Lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis)		15 cm (6 in) long. Mostly green, orange face, blue lower back and rump, horn-coloured beak	Namibia, South Africa,Angola
Black-winged Lovebird or Abyssinian Lovebird (Agapornis taranta)		16.5 cm (6.5 in) long. Mostly green, red beak, some black wing feathers. Sexual dimorphism: only the male has red on forehead and crown, females plumage is all green	southern Eritrea to southwestern Ethiopia
Red-headed Lovebird or Red-faced Lovebird (Agapornis pullarius)		15 cm (6 in) long. Mostly green with red on upper neck and face. Sexual dimorphism: the male has more extensive and a darker red on face and head, and the male has a darker red beak than the female	Large part of central Africa
Grey-headed Lovebird or Madagascar Lovebird (Agapornis canus)		13 cm (5 in) long. Mostly green with darker green on back, pale grey beak. Sexual dimorphism: male has a grey upper body, neck and head.	Madagascar
Black-collared Lovebird or Swindern's Lovebird (Agapornis swindernianus)		13.5 cm (5 in) long. Mostly green, brown collar which has a black upper margin at the back of the neck, dark grey/black beak	Equatorial Africa

Feral populations

Feral populations of Fischer's Lovebirds and Masked Lovebirds live in cities of East Africa. Also present there are intergeneric hybrids between these two species. The hybrid has reddish-brown on head and has orange on upper chest, but otherwise resemble the Masked Lovebird.

Aviculture

With their inclination to bond, they can form long-term relationships with people in tandem with their intra-species companions. Aggression is easily aroused in lovebirds, however, and biting may occur unless a bond is established with gentle handling. Provided with adequate space, a stimulating environment, and appropriate nutrition, a lovebird can become a cherished companion parrot. They love to snuggle and often preen their favorite people.

It is preferable to obtain birds bred in captivity, rather than birds caught from the wild. Wild birds may be harboring a disease, such as avian polyomavirus.^[6] Captured wild lovebirds also may mourn the loss of association with a mate or a flock. Their age is likely to be unknown, and they may have an unsuitable personality for domestication. Lovebirds are not necessarily best kept in pairs, as their name suggests, although relationships with humans are then less likely to be as intense when paired. Birds kept individually or brought up hand-fed, make very good pets. However, single birds require frequent attention to stay happy, and if the owner has limited time to spend daily with a single lovebird, it is preferable to grant the lovebird a companion of the same species, or a companion of another parrot species known to get along well with lovebirds. Lovebirds can become very interactive with humans, and when comfortable, will willingly perch on a finger or shoulders.
Some Lovebirds talk, but many will not: there is a chance they may learn to mimic human sounds if taught to do so at a young age. Lovebirds are noisy, with calls ranging from cheerily pleasant to highly irritating; in the wild, parrots must call to each other over long distances to keep flocks together, and it is through such signals that most of their communication is made. It's best to spend frequent, short periods of time with your lovebird, rather than having just one or two interactions every day.

Sex

Determining Lovebird sex is difficult. At maturity of one year, it may show signs of whether it is male or female, such as ripping up paper and stuffing it into its feathers (female behavior) or regurgitating for its owners (male behavior: the male feeds the nesting female). This behavior is not a reliable indicator. The only sure method is DNA testing. Companies that provide such service exist.

Nesting

Depending on the species of lovebird, the female will carry nesting material into the nest in various ways. Peach-face Lovebirds for example, tuck nesting material in their tail feathers while Green Masked Lovebirds carry nesting material back with their beaks. Once the lovebirds start constructing their nest, mating will follow. During this time, the lovebirds will mate repeatedly. Eggs follow 3–5 days later. The female will spend hours inside her nesting box before eggs are laid. Once the first egg is laid, a new egg will follow every other day until the clutch is complete, typically at four to six eggs. Without a nest, lovebirds will not produce eggs.

Housing and environment

A Yellow-collared Lovebird perching by the entrance to a nest box in a large aviary at Honolulu Zoo, Hawaii, USA

Lovebirds require an appropriately sized cage or aviary. Recommended space per bird is min 1m×1m×1m. Lovebird's beaks are made of keratin, which grows continuously. Chewing and destroying wood toys and perches helps to keep beaks trim. Cuttlebones help provide beak-trimming. Natural perches and special rough surfaced perches of varying diameters placed at different levels in the cage will allow greater climbing mobility and gives them a choice to select the most comfortable spot to roost.^[9] They also require plenty of toys, such as willow branches, swings, tunnels, boxes and safe things to chew on and play with.

Lack of toys, keeping the birdcage covered too many hours, and lack of companionship or social stimulation may lead to boredom, stress and psychological or behavioral problems (nervousness, aggression, feather-plucking, screaming, depression, immuno-suppression). Lovebirds are extremely social birds and will enjoy several hours of interaction a day. Without this interaction, daily exercise, a roomy cage/aviary, and many toys to play with, they may resort to feather-plucking, or screaming, and both behaviors can be difficult to cure. It is suggested that if you must leave the house (to go to work for the day, for example) that you leave a radio or TV set playing, to provide sound.^[10] Lovebirds are intelligent, and if a relationship is to form they need a human who will dedicate lots of time with them. Lovebirds enjoy baths and like to sun themselves daily.

[edit]Grooming

As with pet parrots in general, the tips of lovebirds' toenails should wear down adequately by the parrot climbing over rough surfaced perches, if the parrot is active; however, occasionally the toe nails grow long and may need to be trimmed.^[11] Only the very tips of the toe nails are trimmed, because, if too much of a toe nail is trimmed away, it will be painful and bleed from the blood vessels in the centre of the nail.^[11]^[12]Sharp pointed toe nails that scratch the owner can be blunted by simply filing the point.^[12] These procedures are usually done with the help of an assistant carefully holding the parrot wrapped in a towel.^[11]^[12]

[edit]Diet

Whole Cereals & whole Grains : Amaranth, Barley, Couscous, Flax, whole-grain Pastas, Oat, Quinoa (truly a Fruit but used as a Cereal), whole-Wheat, Wild-Rice, whole Rices.

Edible Blossoms & Flowers: Carnations, Chamomille, Chives, Dandelion, Day Lilies, Eucalyptus, Fruit tree's blossoms, Herbs' blossoms, Hibiscus, Honeysuckle, Impatiens, Lilac, Nasturiums, Pansies, Passion Flower (Passiflora), Roses, Sunflowers, Tulips, Violets. Note that the leaves of some of these plants are poisonous to Lovebirds.

Greens &/or Weeds:
- mainly ; Bok-Choy, Broccoli &/or Cauliflower leaves, Cabbage leaves, Collard greens, Dandelion leaves, Kelp, Mustard leaves, Seaweeds, Spirulina, Water cress...
- occasionally & sporadically ; Amaranth leaves, Beet leaves, Carambola (Starfruit), Chards, Parsley, Spinach & Turnip leaves. All of these feature high Oxalic-Acid content that induces production of Calcium Oxalates (crystals/stones) by binding Calcium & other trace Minerals present in foods & goods with which they're ingested. This may lead to Calcium deficiencies (Hypocalcemia) in minor cases or in more severe cases to Liver &/or other internal organ damage or failure.

Fruit (except Avocados which are toxic): all Apple varieties (remove all seeds) , fresh Banana, all Berries varieties, all Citrus varieties, Grapes, Kiwi, Mango, Melons, Nectarine, Papaya, Peach, all Pear varieties, Plum, Star-fruit. Pits and seeds from every Citrus and Drupe species must always be discarded as they are intoxicating. However, achenes and tiny seeds from pseudo and true Berries (Bananas, Blueberries, Elderberries, Eggplants, Persimmons, Pomegranates, Raspberries, Strawberries, Tomatoes) are all okay.^[13]

Legumes: Almonds, Beans, Lentils, Peas, Nuts and Tofu.

Grain and/or Legume sprouts: Adzuki beans, Alfalfa beans, Buckwheat, Lentils, Mungo beans, Pinto beans, Red Kidney beans, Sesame seeds, Sunflower seeds. Caution with only Lima and Navy beans' sprouts which are toxic.

Vegetables (except Uncooked Potatoes, Uncooked Onions and all Mushrooms): Beet, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Carrots, Cucumber, all Cabbage varieties, fresh Beans, fresh Romane Lettuce, fresh Peas, Parsnip, all Pepper varieties, all Squash varieties, Sweet potatoes, Tomato, Turnip, Yams, Zucchini.

Pellets specifically formulated for Lovebirds and/or for small parrots are all healthy additions.

Other fat-free, healthy and nutritious human foods in very limited amounts.

Adding these foods provides additional nutrients and can prevent obesity and lipomas, as can substituting millet, which is relatively low in fat, for higher-fat seed mixes. Adult Lovebirds often do not always adapt readily to dietary additions, so care must be taken to introduce healthy diets as young as possible (ideally weaned onto fresh foods before introducing chicks onto seeds). Lovebirds like any other Parrots learn mainly by mimicry and thus most adult Lovebirds will be easily encouraged to try new foods by observing another bird eating the food, or by placing the new food on a mirror.

Parrot species (including Cockatiels) are biologically vegetarian species. Consequently, they should be fed vegetarian diets that are ideally supplemented with vegetable proteins provided by the combination of any type of whole Grain/Cereal with any type of Legume/Pulse. Eggs (hard-boiled and/or scrambled) are the only one appropriately healthy source of animal proteins. Mostly for Birds in either breeding, growing, moulting and/or recovering conditions. High levels of Proteins (most particularly Animal Proteins) is unhealthy for Lovebirds living under any alternate conditions (i.e. non-breeding, pets...)

Intermediate species such as African Grey Parrots, LoveBirds, Poicephalus, RingNecked Parakeets... should be offered diets where pellets represent a moderate portion of about 1/3 to 1/2 of their daily diets.

In terms of health, if you want to be a pet owner, the least you can do is ensure the animal has plenty of exercise and freedom. If one does not have the space, one should not take these animals on.

Green and Blue series Peach-faced Lovebirds:
two parents with their two recently fledged chicks

[edit]Aggression problems with other birds and animal species

Because of their dominant and territorial nature, Lovebirds should be supervised when socializing with other species/genera (whether it be cat, dog, small mammal or other bird species). Lovebirds can be aggressive to other birds, even to other lovebirds. Hand raised Lovebirds tend not to be scared and pose even more of a threat to themselves. Toe biting can occur when Lovebirds are socializing/housed with small birds (i.e. Parrotlets, Budgies, and even docile Cockatiels). They should not be housed with other bird genera as they can be injured or pose a threat to other birds.

[edit]Pets and bird safety

Lovebirds are very vocal birds, making loud, high-pitched noises. Some make noise all day, especially during dawn and dusk. This is a normal parrot behavior as flock animals, where they are calling to each other before the start of the day and just before they settle down for the night.

Lovebirds are also very active and love to chew things. When they are flying within a household, it is wise to watch them carefully and protect any furniture, electrical wiring or anything else that they could possibly chew on. Try to place fresh willow or oak branches in a favorite spot (e.g. near a high/sunny platform) to satisfy this natural behavior. Other things to be aware of when keeping lovebirds (also applies to other pet birds) at home are the danger spots in the house, such as open toilet bowls for drowning, clear glass walls which might be rammed in full force by the bird, fumes from all teflon or anti-stick coating in the kitchen, microwave oven coatings and chemical fumes from regular household cleaning products. Interaction with other pets in the house must also be supervised, such as cats and dogs which may view the lovebird as a prey animal.

Some people who keep birds as pets practice the clipping of the flight feathers for safety reasons as mentioned above. This also promotes tameness between the bird and the owner as the bird will be less flighty.

Lovebirds of different species can mate and produce sterile hybrid offspring. These offspring display habits of both parents. It is recommended to only place birds of the same species together, or of the same sex for this reason.

[edit]In popular culture

Songs about lovebirds include:

Reincarnation of a Lovebird No 2 by Charles Mingus from the album Reincarnation of a Lovebird

The animated television series 3rd and bird features several characters described as lovebirds.

Breeding Canaries

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 20:51:00 +0000

Canaries have been raised in Germany for centuries and those coming from colder climate areas have grown to tolerate the cold. Even in rooms without heating, breeding is no problem today provided that the breeder keeps the rhythm of the birds' nature.

When acquiring canaries, it is very important to find out the environmental conditions they were kept in. They should be acclimatized to lower - or higher temperatures - progressively, over a period of time.

One should also keep in mind that newly acquired birds are going through the stress of moving to a new home. Their immune system will be compromised for some time and special care needs to be taken to protect them from draft and cold.

They should be quarantined from the existing birds for at least a month to protect both the existing breeding stock from an introduced disease, and to give the new canary time to recover and build up its immune system.

Aviary Breeding:

If kept in an aviary environment, they should be protected from draft and rain, of course. Covered aviaries are preferable - as they protect your canaries from the droppings of any wild birds perching on your aviary. Bird droppings can be infected with parasites, or bacteria and viruses.. Additionally, wild birds often carry mites. You really don't want to introduce any of that in your aviary.

Cage Breeding:

If you prefer to breed your canaries indoors, choose a bright area. Sufficient daylight is important for their health and well-being, as well as to bring them into breeding condition when it's that time.

The cage should be a minimum of about 24 x 16 x 16 inches (or even bigger for the larger canary breeds, such as the Yorkshire Canary). In addition to the normal cage accessories, such as perches, seed and water dishes, and sand or newspaper to cover the cage floor, there should be a device for making it easy to the canaries to build the nest, and a crib that contains hemp or burlap. Canary nest cups are available at the pet store and readily accepted by the canaries. However, do try to stay away from the "flimsy" ones that fall down easily. There is nothing sadder than broken fertile eggs at the bottom of the cage or the aviary due to that happening. The flimsy ones don't last long either. You may think you are saving money, but you really aren't - due to the loss of eggs or chicks and constant replacement cost of these cups. Of course, if you are a little handy and find ways to attach them securely - then why not.

Whenever you plan to breed, you should be sure to have enough room in your cages for the little birds even after they are grown to be independent.

Setting up Canaries for Breeding:

The male and female birds are placed in the breeding cage in the breeding season, which tends to begin in the second half of March. Soon the hen begins to build a nest. At that time the male starts courting the hen, the hen crouches down and they mate.

In a day, seldom two days interval, the hen lays four to five blue-green, brown speckled eggs. After 13 to 14 days of incubating, with the hen sitting on the nest, the tiny little canaries hatch out.

At this time, you need to provide egg-food to your birds, in addition to the normal seeds. You can mix your own nestling food using hard-boiled eggs, mashed - including its shell (for extra calcium) - mixing it with soaked whole wheat bread and maybe with grated carrots. Nesting food is available at the store, which can also be mixed with egg. To four cups of dry nestling food, add one pound grated carrots, and one dozen grated hard boiled eggs. Chop the eggs in a food processor shells and all. This is for about fifty feeding hens. Boil the eggs for twelve to fourteen minutes to ensure that no fowl diseases are transmitted to the canaries.

This mixture is given in an amount that the birds will eat in one hour. All birds get one treat cup per day of this egg mix. The supply for birds with feeding young is constantly renewed during the day. The nestling food with egg spoils very rapidly, particularly during the summer. It would be best to prepare the egg mix fresh every day. If this is not possible, refrigerate any excess immediately.

Canaries are usually good parents and both parents take care of the chicks, which they feed for about four weeks. At an age of about 21 days, the young canary birds leave the nest, start clumsily to move around in the cage, but proceed in coordinating their movements and start to feed themselves on egg food and seeds.

As soon as they are fully fledged, the young canaries should be separated from their parents.

Potential Breeding Problems

The Youngest Chicks Don't Thrive or Die: Female canaries lay one egg each day until she has laid all her eggs. The eggs will, therefore, hatch one day apart. The chances for the smallest chicks are diminished, as the larger chicks are stronger and more demanding and will, therefore, receive more food than the younger chicks. This may result in stunted growth and, in some cases, even death.

James Anagnos, an experienced canary breeder, suggests the following: "[T]he day she lays her first egg take it from her and store in safe place in a cup with some tissue or cotton. [Please refer to this webpage about properly storing eggs BEFORE incubation]. Take all her eggs every day as soon as she has laid them. When she has laid all [or her last] eggs, place them all back in her nest. She will now incubate all the eggs at the same time, so all the eggs hatch at about the same time. This will give all birds an equal chance. They are all the same size and strong."This will greatly reduce the chance of losing the younger chicks.

Sexing Young Canaries:

James Anagnos also found a very unusual way of sexing young chicks still in the nest:

"[S]exing canaries is very easy to do when the young birds are still in the nest, when [their] first feathers come in and their wings [still look like] straws. Just tap the nest with your finger and the female birds will just stay there looking at you, [while] the male birds will all put [their] heads down and stick [their behinds] up in the air. [T]his is 100 % foolproof. Every bird that put his head down is a male."

Breeding Crested Canaries:

Crested Canaries should always be mated to Plainheads.

The gene that causes the crested mutation is dominant, but a double dose is lethal. When one gene is inherited, the bird is crested. If two genes are inherited, then the bird's skull is deformed and the chick usually dies in shell.

From the results below it can be seen that you will not get any more live crested chicks by breeding crested to crested, therefore this is not recommended.

Lesser Goldfinch

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 20:43:00 +0000

Map

Audio

This very common carduelid finch of the southwest breeds in a variety of habitats at different elevations. It is often seen in small flocks feeding along brushy roadsides, particularly where thistle grows. Northern populations migrate south in winter, augmenting resident populations from southern California to southern Texas. It is often detected by its distinctive flight calls. Polytypic. Length 4.5" (11 cm).

Identification A relatively small, sexually dimorphic finch with a short, notched tail and a small, dark, conical bill. Breeding male: differs greatly depending on subspecies. In the “green-backed” hesperophila, the bright yellow underparts and black cap contrast with an olive-green back that can show some fine dark streaking. Narrow pale tips to the lesser coverts and wider white tips to the greater coverts form 2 distinct wing bars on a black wing. The white at the base of the primaries forms a white “tick” on the folded wing. The tertials are broadly edged in white. The mostly white bases to the outer tail feathers form distinctive white tail patches visible from underneath or when in flight. In the “black-backed” psaltria (mexicanus of some authors), bright yellow underparts contrast with entirely black upperparts. The wings and tail are similar to thehesperophila. Female: more uniform yellow-green, often yellower below and greener above, but less contrasting. The head does not have a black cap. The wings are similarly patterned to male, but they are decidedly duller. A distinctive white at base of primaries is present. Some females very dull and drab, mostly gray with some yellowish green wash to body; wings duller, but still with white “tick.” Immature male: It lacks the full black cap of the adult, but it still has black on the forehead (hesperophila) or has some black intermixed with green on the back and crown (psaltria).

Geographic Variation There are 2 distinct subspecies in North America. The green-backed hesperophila is more widespread in the Southwest, with black-backed hesperophila breeding from Colorado to southern Texas. Intergradation occurs clinally between Texas and Colorado.

Similar Species Males are very distinct from other goldfinch species. The female American goldfinch is larger and has white undertail coverts, a wide buffy lower wing bar with very little white at the base for the flight feathers, and a pale pinkish bill. A very pale female lesser can show whitish undertail coverts, but it has a different wing pattern than all Americans and is always greener than the female Lawrence’s.

Voice Calls: includes a plaintive, kittenlike tee-yee. Song: very complex jumble of musical phrases, often mimicking other species.

Status and Distribution Very common. Breeding: a variety of habitats at different elevations from arid lowlands to high pine forests, often found near water. Winter: northern and high elevation populations migrate to southern United States and Mexico, augmenting resident populations there. Vagrant: casual north and east of mapped range in Great Plains. Accidental in the East.

American Goldfinch

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Fri, 29 Oct 2010 12:41:00 +0000

The brightly colored male American goldfinch is especially recognizable. The American regularly visits seed feeders, particularly in the east. It is often very gregarious, especially during the nonbreeding season, when it flocks to roadsides and brushy fields to feed on thistle and sunflowers. It is often heard in flight, giving distinct flight calls. Polytypic (4 named ssp.; differences slight). Length 5" (13 cm).

Identification A relatively large carduelid. Breeding male: unmistakable. Body entirely bright lemon yellow with white undertail coverts. Jet black cap. Black wings with yellow lesser coverts and narrow white tips to greater coverts, forming 2 white wing bars along with white edging to the tertials. White inner webs to most of the tail feathers. Pink, conical bill. Breeding female: very different from male. Underparts very yellow with white undertail coverts, while upperparts, including head, olive green. Lower wing bar buffy and quite wide. Tail feathers with white tips and inner webs. Bill pinkish. Winter male: cinnamon brown above and on breast and flanks, with white lower belly and undertail coverts, yellowish wash on throat and face, and muted black on forehead. Wings more boldly patterned. Yellow lesser coverts. Wide, whitish lower wing bar. Bill darker than in breeding season. Winter female: mostly drab gray body with black wings and 2 bold buffy wing bars. White undertail coverts and edging to tail feathers. Dark bill. Immature male: black on forehead reduced or lacking. Lesser coverts duller. Juvenile: resembles adult female. Unstreaked.

Similar Species The male is unlike any other finch in North America; the Wilson’s warbler is the only other bright yellow species with a black cap, but it does not have the finchlike bill or the bold wing pattern of the American. All other plumages can be separated from the lesser goldfinch by their bolder wing pattern and white undertail coverts. The female Lawrence’s goldfinch is gray like a nonbreeding adult female American, but note the American’s wider, buffier wing bars and different pattern of white in tail. The call notes of the American are very distinct from those of the Lesser and the Lawrence’s.

Voice Call: various, including per-chik-o-ree or a descending ti-di-di-di; given mainly in flight. Song: a long series of musical phrases, often repeated randomly; similar to the lesser. Not known to mimic other species.

Status and Distribution Common throughout much of United States and southern Canada. Breeding: a variety of habitats, from weedy fields to open second growth woodland, and along riparian corridors, particularly in the West. Does not breed over much of southern third of United States. Winter: populations from northern third of breeding range migrate to southern United States and Mexico, augmenting resident populations throughout middle section of the United States.

Keeping Canaries :

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Sat, 23 Oct 2010 19:55:00 +0000

The keeping of Canaries for their appearance and song is a tradition that dates back centuries. With proper care, you will enjoy a healthy canary that will sing its heart out for you, and will be a pleasurable companion bird.

Diet:

Many veterinarians recommend a diet of 80% canary pellets. However, given the poor quality of the available pellets, most of which contain harmful chemicals and additives, a diet that is as close to their natural diet is not only more enjoyable for the canaries, but may pose fewer long-term health ramifications. A high-quality seed mix in addition to plenty of fresh food items (including greens) would be the best choice. Vets usually recommend pellets as they assume that bird owners will fail to provide fresh foods on a daily basis -- in which case, pellets are preferable to a seed-only diet. *Please note: When feeding pellets to your pet, please be aware of the fact that overly feeding citrus fruits (including oranges) or vitamin-C-rich foods to your birds can lead to "Iron Overload Disease" as vitamin C increases the amount of iron absorbed from foods and supplements.

All canaries benefit from a supply of green food such as lettuce, dandelion leaves and nasturtium leaves. They can eat any produce you do, with the exception of avocado. They readily accept and enjoy fresh fruits / veggies a lot, and parsley -- and dandelions are VERY good for them. You can get a lot of free "green stuff" (safe plants please!) from your own garden to feed to them - as long as the plants have not been chemically treated, i.e., pesticides, chemical fertilizers). (For non-toxic ways to control pests in the house or garden, please visit this webpage.) Care should be taken to ensure leaves supplied are clean and have not been sprayed with any chemicals. Canaries also enjoy little bits of fruit, but be careful to offer only what the bird can eat in one sitting, or you may wind up attracting ants, or hornets. (For tips on controlling ants in your house, your garden, or your aviary - in a non-toxic way - please click here.)

During the moulting period it is advisable to supplement their diet with egg food or nestling food (can be bought as a dry mix to which water is added until a crumbly but not soggy consistency is achieved. Some nestling or egg foods can be served dry, others are best served with a soak seed mix; this is a special mixture of seeds meant to be soaked, rinsed, and sometimes sprouted a little, before being served). During the molt season, your canary needs more fat in his diet, such as flax and niger seeds. Cucumber is especially good during molt too. After molt, cut back on the additional fat, and feed your canary niger and hemp seeds as their treat to motivate them to sing. (*Hemp Seeds are often referred to as "super-seeds" as they offer a complete amino acid profile, have an ideal balance of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, and provide an impressive amount of trace minerals - they also have the highest concentration of protein in the plant kingdom.)

Soaked seeds are an absolute necessity for the feeding hen and for the newly weaned young. They are a treat for all birds. Cracked corn, wheat, buckwheat, and safflower, normally too large and hard, are made acceptable to canaries by soaking. Soaking breaks down complex carbohydrates rendering the seed more palatable and more highly digestible. This is done by taking a special soak seed mix and adding two parts, or more, of water and refrigerating. Soak for at least 24 hours. Rinse well and strain before feeding.

Sprouts are not the same thing as soaked seed. Not all seeds can be sprouted. Most bird seeds are treated withpreservatives and vitamins and will not germinate. Seeds for sprouting should be kept separate for various species of plants have different germinating times and requirements. In addition to the regular bird seeds, many seeds for sprouting are available in health food stores. My favorite is the Chinese mung bean which is very easy to sprout and possesses a high degree of palatability for the birds. I have also used soy beans for sprouting. My birds do not like alfalfa sprouts.

Sprouting seed is the simplest way to provide your birds with fresh greens. For a few birds only a quarter cup of seeds should be sprouted at a time. Seeds increase in volume tremendously when sprouted. Place the seeds in a clean glass jar. Fill with tap water and let stand at room temperature for twenty-four hours. Rinse and drain completely. Repeat the rinsing and draining completely daily until the seed has sprouted. If a foul odor or mold develops, discard. Preparations are available to prevent spoilage. Rinsing and draining well is very important. Any surplus sprouts may be refrigerated up to two weeks.

Nestling food can also be mixed with egg. To four cups of dry nestling food, add one pound grated carrots, and one dozen grated hard boiled eggs. Chop the eggs in a food processor shells and all. This is for about fifty feeding hens. Boil the eggs for twelve to fourteen minutes to ensure that no fowl diseases are transmitted to the canaries.

Toys & Entertainment:

To ensure caged birds are happy, toys should be provided and swapped regularly to avoid boredom (which can lead to aggression and feather plucking). Most people keep males and females in separate cages, except during breeding season. When buying pet canaries, great care must be taken to ensure the right mix of sexes in a cage. A mistake could lead to the birds attacking each other, even to the extent that one may kill another.

In general, pet canaries do not require companionship; the canary species is territorial, not social, and does not generally appreciate company in the same cage. It will be seen as an intruder, not as a companion, and although it might take up to two years or so, if they remain in a single cage all year round, usually one or the other will eventually die. A male and a female stand a better chance of getting along amicably, but all too often the less dominant bird will eventually die, although it may take some time.

This is because the dominant bird will feel the need to constantly 'oversee' the less dominant bird of the two. It will never be able to eat, sleep, or drink its fill in peace, and eventually the stress will take its toll.

If a bird is present in the home and a companion is bought, it must be kept in a separate cage for at least couple of weeks, both for quarantine, and to ensure the birds get used to each other; the new bird can then gradually be introduced to ensure that no fighting ensues. A male and female will often get along reasonably well if introduced in this way, but should not be allowed to remain together all year round; each should have some privacy, during the period from midwinter until the start of breeding season in early spring, at the very least.

Two males will very rarely be happy together, although keeping them permanently in separate cages will prompt them each to sing more than they probably would on their own - however a good recording of canary song will work equally well. A cage with a number of males may work as long as no female is present, but again, they should not be expected to live in peace all year round, and each should be separated into an individual cage during the spring/early summer breeding season at the very least.

Male canaries can mimic sounds such as telephone ring tones and door bell chimes but only if they hear these sounds while young. Canaries can be taught tricks over time but great patience is required as they are fairly timid birds. To get the birds to play with toys, toys must be safely constructed (no sharp edges or parts the bird's feet could become entangled upon).

Many people keep canaries for their song. But what if they don't sing?

Are you sure your canary is a male? Frequently, hens are being sold as males, as it is difficult to sex them when they are young. The beautiful song of the male only develop as they mature. Many females do sing quite well, but lack the long trills and warbles of the male. Talented males and females can learn to mimic sound -- so much so that with a little training, a female's song can't be distinguished from that of a male canary.

Is your canary molting? Canaries don't sing during this time. Canaries molt (change plumage) once a year - usually during the summer. A molt should take no longer than 6 to 8 weeks. If it takes longer, then a vet should be consulted as your canary could suffer from a feather disorder. Since molting can be stressful and uncomfortable, some birds experience a decrease in appetite. However, an increase in metabolism to accommodate the production of several thousand new feathers can cause an increase in appetite. Whether they lose their appetite or eat more during the molt probably depends on their comfort level. Molting birds benefit from more quality protein in the diet which can be provided in the form of well done eggs, well cooked meats and seafood, as well as cooked beans and rice, which together form a complete protein. Additional protein and good fats are needed to create strong and lustrous feathers. This is a good time to grind and sprinkle flax seeds over the birds' food. Hemp seeds also provide beneficial oils and the essential fatty acids (EFAs) necessary to produce quality feathers. (*Hemp Seeds are often referred to as "super-seeds" as they offer a complete amino acid profile, have an ideal balance of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, and provide an impressive amount of trace minerals - they also have the highest concentration of protein in the plant kingdom.)

How is your canary's diet? Is the diet appropriate for the canary? Do you provide a quality canary seed, fresh fruits and veggies / greens; calcium / mineral & vitamin supplements? The basic, cheap seed mix at your local grocery store is not going to keep your canary in good health and singing. Click here for information on proper diet.

Is your canary sick? Is your canary protected from draft? Is he or she lively and social, or fluffed up and sleepy. A sick canary won't sing. If there is reason for concern, you need to take your canary to the vet.

Diseases / Illness / Toxicities at Home:

If pet canaries become ill they will rapidly lose weight and this is why it is essential to treat disease as quickly as possible. It is wise to have glucose powder and an eye dropper in store to administer drops of diluted solution via the beak if a canary stops eating. When a bird is sick, it puffs up its feathers to stay warm; give it gentle heat. You can often drape a heating pad over or under the cage, but be sure the bird can also get OUT of the heat if it wants.

Common household hazards include fumes from the kitchen (cooking fumes and especially fumes from non-stick pans)- canaries should never be kept in a kitchen for this reason. They are also sensitive to smoke from cigarettes, aerosol sprays such as deodorant, air freshener and polish.

Plug-in air fresheners or stand-alone fan fresheners are very toxic, as are some candles, especially scented ones (except unscented beeswax candles).

Avoid placing a canary's cage where it is in a draft, or be in full glare of sunlight without any shade available. If you let your canary out to fly about for exercise, always cover mirrors and windows, as they may fly into them and break their neck.

A number of houseplants/cut flowers are very poisonous to canaries (as are some herbs), so never let them nibble leaves of houseplants. Be very wary, as canaries love to eat greens of all kinds! Safe plants include spider plants, african violets and boston ferns. Clean water must be available for drinking and separate water should be made available for bathing.

Food dishes/cage parts can be safely sterilized in a hot dishwasher or in baby-bottle fluid such as diluted Milton. When it comes to disease, prevention is better than cure. Canaries should be examined for mites and, if mites are found (especially easy to spot around the neck and rump) they can be treated with over-the-counter medication (canary mites don't bite humans). Abnormalities of the skin and feet may be caused by mites and this can also be treated with over-the-counter pet medication. Be aware that dietary problems can cause skin, foot, and feather problems that may look as if they are due to mite damage, so before treating with any drug, get an experienced opinion from a good avian vet on the actual cause of the condition.

Adapted from Wikipedia.org. This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License.

Grooming:

Canaries love bathing and should be allowed to bathe often. Offer cold water for them to bathe in, as it improves their feather condition. Warm water, on the other hand, will strip essential oils from the feathers, and may encourage itching and picking, rather than preening. Plentiful time to bathe is especially important to a canary during the moult.

The Canary in Captivity:

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Sat, 23 Oct 2010 19:53:00 +0000

Canaries are absolutely delightful beings and fun characters to watch.

I found them to be very social beings. A little "friendly" fight here and there with their cage or aviary co-habitants, but generally they get along really well and are non-aggressive. They make very pretty aviary birds - and the melodious song of the males add a lot to the charm of an aviary.

They are never going to be "cuddly pets"

.. and I know, having handfed some of them from day 1 - they do become quite confiding. They make a great choice for people who enjoy watching birds rather than having a demanding pet that requires a lot of personal attention.

Housing Your Canary:

I hate to see them in small cages. Since these are birds that will just about ALWAYS be in a cage, I would hope that people give them a roomy flight cage, maybe with some plants in it too for the canaries to enjoy. They should be able to fly. Make it a "project" to prepare an attractive flight cage for them, with lots of toys (no STRING toys though that might strangle them) and natural branches, maybe some plants.
Your canary should be kept in a room with plenty of natural light. Do not place cage near a window where he may get a cold draft. Since a male canary's singing is stimulated by people movements, keep your canary in a room you occupy frequently.
You canary needs plenty of exercise and should be kept in a rectangular cage at least 10 inches wide and 17 inches long.
Be sure to cover your canary's cage at night so the light stops with the sunset. This keeps him in tune with the seasons.

beautiful photos ( goldfinch)

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Sat, 23 Oct 2010 19:42:00 +0000

Keeping and Raising European Goldfinches

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 10:40:00 +0000

The famous bird of European antiquity is the European Goldfinch. It can be seen in paintings in most major museums in Europe and the world. It's lovely cheerfulness, perky charm, and delight to both the eye and the ear was perhaps replaced by the canary only because the canary is a more cooperative bird to raise in captivity. That does not mean that the goldfinch is delicate in any way. There are a few special feeding requirements which can be easily satisfied, and breeding them is a bit more challenging. The canary is an easier breeder. The goldfinch remains popular in Europe, but doesn't seem to be well understood in America, probably because the canary won over here in America.

There are several lovely advantages that the goldfinch has over the canary, however, and I would love to see the bird revived. Their song is a delight. It may be less sensuous than the canary, but it is always different and never repetitious to the careful listener. I know no bird that sounds as cheerful and happy. I could do without my canaries, but I could not do without my goldfinches! Trying to describe bird song seems futile, but it's faster and more varied in every way.

They can be kept in a canary cage, but they need a larger cage or aviary for breeding. As they are so perky, they are more fun to watch in a larger cage. They may sing more in a canary cage, however. They can be seen hanging to the sides, tops, any place in the cage, which doesn't mean that they want to get out. They are use to hanging upside down and every which way on their favorite plants, the teasel and thistle. They are a lot more acrobatic than canaries.

Their color may be less gaudy than the canary in some peoples eyes, but the red, white, and black face, black & white wings and tail, with the splashes of gold, (orange, if you color feed them) rich brown back and buff brown belly makes them no slouches to look at. The better I know them, the more I love the way they look.

If you see a goldfinch in a store that looks like it's on the way out, you can revive it. They will not last long on either a canary or a finch diet, but have special diet requirements. Pet store owners usually do not know this. You should consider whether you want to go through a bit of extra work, but it's easy enough to do, and very well worth it.

The first thing to do is find a seed mixture that has a lot of niger. I think buying wild bird thistle from a Jewel store is adequate, but I was told that it's a lower quality. An excellent mixture is Kellogs song food, and it can be bought in the bulk size right for you. Check with your pet store. The next major seed is sunflower hearts. Many pet stores don't seem to carry them, but perhaps you can special order it. I buy mine at a food store. I've seen it with wild bird seeds in nursery stores, farmer type stores. If you have trouble, I'd use the yellow pages. Once you find it, your in business, though! I'm sure this is enough seed variety, but if you can, you can add hulled oats, hemp, teasel (it grows wild around Chicago), weed seeds of many kinds, spray millet, etc. However, as I said, canary or finch seed alone is not sufficient. I can't get mine to touch canary seed, although many books recommend it.

Goldfinches need a lot of greens, every day. Canaries can survive without them, but not goldfinches. Standard greens like broccoli or bok choy work, but during the summer it seems like they can't get enough dandelions, and you can pick all you want off your neighbors’ lawn. They also eat some spruce or pine. They love spring tree buds, especially elm and willow. They are a bit messy, but the birds love them. The dandelions are the easiest in summer.

Goldfinches also like a lot of egg food. I'm sure that commercial egg food is fine, but if you have time, you can save pennies by making your own, and it may be more healthy. I boil eggs for at least 15 minutes, shred with their shells, which supply calcium, and mix in about 1/3 Kellogs petamine, so that it will dry out before it sours. I put this in those tiny treat cups every day. I also mix in a bit of nikon vitamins here.

If you follow these directions, your goldfinch will revive and be silken and beautiful in one season. Breeding them is a greater challenge, however, it's so rewarding, if you try it for fun. I really am in favor of keeping a captive population, so I very much recommend you try it, perhaps after you've given them a year to acclimatize. If you get captive bred birds, you won't have to wait.

To begin with, you would need a male and a female! If you have a pair, it is easy to tell which is which, as the female has a little less of everything. -just a little, however. Unlike the canary, she does sing a bit even, but not as fully as the male. If you're buying a pair, it's more challenging, as it's a matter of degree. There is an area of the extended wing which is supposed to be a full proof way of sewing them. Brownish on the female, black on the male.

They need a fairly large cage to breed, and books usually recommend an aviary. I use cages, however, which are two feet long and one and one half foot deep. The larger, the better. I keep the pair together all year, and they are really fun to watch in that size cage.

Goldfinches are late breeders, and I recommend that sometime in March you add artificial light and extend the day gradually until 8:00 pm. (9:00 dst). That will extend the breeding season.

The nest is a canary basket, the smallest size. Sew in two nest liners, being careful not to leave thread inside the basket. They have a way of twizzling their feet into everything. I've lost several females that way. You can put it in when you notice the black on the tips of their beaks disappear, when you notice the female carrying things around, or when you feel like it. As much as they like hair, even dog hair, I will never use it, because they twist it around their feet. As I said, I've lost several females that way. I find the best nesting material to be burlap, cut into four inch squares and pulled apart. Some Burlap sacks have nylon strands in them which I toss out. They might also use coco fibers, although I think they would be happy with just burlap and toilet tissue, torn up very small. I haven't seen them use bermuda grass, feathers, or sphagnum moss, although I've been told that they may. I've just heard of corn husks, but don't have any this year.

The female does all the egg work, you do none. I don't candle eggs, or handle them at all. I think it's all up to her. I also don't remove eggs. She just gets peace & quiet. About this time I add 8 in 1 nesting food into the egg mixture, with the Kellogs Petamine (about 50/50). I also give them wax worms, and give them all they want when the babies hatch. I don't know that this is necessary, but I fuss over them! Watch the male at this time, as I have had aggressive males toss out baby birds, I think in frustration. The female can handle everything by herself, and you can take him out as soon as she's finished laying eggs, if you wish.

The babies are so exciting, but I don't disturb them at all, and, once again let the female do all the work. I know someone who has had fed babies, but I can't imagine it! All I do is trust the great cosmos, but I do remove the male if he is the slightest bit disturbing. This year I may just move them out and be safe. Of course if you have more than one pair, don't get them mixed up!

If they jump out of the nest when they're only half grown, you can leave them out. Mama will take care of them. Just watch that they don't get snagged on something. They're tougher than they look at that stage, although it's nerve wrecking to go though.

I put the male back when they start becoming self sufficient and start looking like birds. They will be solid gray, and are called gray pates at this stage. By the way, you don't say flock of goldfinches, you say, chorus of goldfinches. I guess when to remove them, but when the female starts becoming interested in the nest again, I try to balance that out, so far with good luck.

There are a number of things which can go wrong, and if they do, I just start over again next time. Thinking of the reward when I succeed. Best of luck, please feel free to email me with any questions or comments of any kind. I welcome it.

The work may be more than with some other finches, but look at what you get!

EUROPEAN GOLDFINCHES

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 20:26:00 +0000

The Goldfinch or European Goldfinch, Carduelis carduelis, is a small finch.

The Goldfinch can be found across Europe and most of Asia in open, partially wooded lowlands. It is resident in the milder west of its range, but migrates from colder regions. It will also make local movements, even in the west, to escape bad weather.

This bird is a rare vagrant to eastern North America. In 2005, one was spotted and photographed on a bird feeder in Michigan

Description:

The Goldfinch is 12-13.5 cm (4-5 inches) long and weighs 16 to 22 grams.
Sexes are alike, with a red face, black and white head, warm brown upperparts, white underparts with buff flanks and breast patches, and black and yellow wings. The ivory-colored bill is long and pointed, and the tail is forked.
Juveniles have a plain head and a greyer back but are unmistakable due to the yellow wing stripe.

Call / Song:

The call is a melodic tickeLIT. The song is a pleasant tinkling medley of trills and twitters, but always including the trisyllabic call phrase or a teLLIT-teLLIT-teLLIT.

Mutations/Sub-species:

The European Goldfinch comes in a variety of mutations including: Tawny, Agate, Isabella, Pastel, Satinè, Yellow, Opal and Albino. The sub-species include: American Goldfinch (Carduelis Tristis) and the Himalayan Goldfinch (Carduelis Caniceps).
The Himalayan resembles the European Goldfinch except that it has an absence of black markings and tawny plumage is replaced with grey. Goldfinches have been cross breed with Canaries, Siskins and Linnets.

Diet:

A good Goldfinch diet must include a mixture of millets, cereal seeds, canary grass seeds, green food and live food. Sprouting seed is the simplest way to provide your birds with fresh greens and make a great weaning food. These birds are especially fond of Safflower, and Thistle.

Compatibility:

European Goldfinches can be kept in a mixed aviary with birds of similar size or in individual pairs.

Housing:

Many European Goldfinches are housed in individual breeding cages much like Canaries. However, they will thrive in a large planted aviary with plenty of room to fly and sing. These birds are quite the acrobat and can be seen hanging upside down on perches and twirling off one perch to another.

great britain cities: GREAT BRITAIN CITIES

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 20:08:00 +0000

great britain cities: GREAT BRITAIN CITIES

noreply@blogger.com (massi0913) — Sun, 10 Oct 2010 18:40:00 +0000

goldfinshes:::

The European Goldfinch or Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) is a small passerine bird in the finch family.

The goldfinch breeds across Europe, North Africa, and western and central Asia, in open, partially wooded lowlands. It is resident in the milder west of its range, but migrates from colder regions. It will also make local movements, even in the west, to escape bad weather. It has been introduced to many areas of the world.

The average Goldfinch is 12–13 cm long with a wingspan of 21–25 cm and a weight of 14 to 19 grams. The sexes are broadly similar, with a red face, black and white head, warm brown upperparts, white underparts with buff flanks and breast patches, and black and yellow wings. On closer inspection male Goldfinches can often be distinguished by a larger, darker red mask that extends just behind the eye. In females, the red face does not reach the eye. The ivory-coloured bill is long and pointed, and the tail is forked. Goldfinches in breeding condition have a white bill, with a greyish or blackish mark at the tip for the rest of the year. Juveniles have a plain head and a greyer back but are unmistakable due to the yellow wing stripe. Birds in central Asia (canicepsgroup) have a plain grey head behind the red face, lacking the black and white head pattern of European and western Asian birds

Taxonomy

The species is divided into two major groups, each comprising several races. The two groups intergrade at their boundary, so the caniceps group is not recognised as a distinct species despite its readily distinguishable plumage.

Carduelis carduelis carduelis group.

Carduelis carduelis balcanica. Southeastern Europe.
Carduelis carduelis brevirostris. Crimea, north Caucasus.
Carduelis carduelis britannica. British Isles.
Carduelis carduelis carduelis. Most of European mainland, Scandinavia.
Carduelis carduelis loudoni. South Caucasus, Iran.
Carduelis carduelis major. Western Siberia.
Carduelis carduelis niediecki. Southwest Asia, northeast Africa.
Carduelis carduelis parva. Atlantic Macaronesic Islands (Canary I., Madeira), Iberia^{[citation needed]} , northwest Africa.
Carduelis carduelis tschusii. Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily.

Carduelis carduelis caniceps group.

Carduelis carduelis caniceps. Southern central Asia.
Carduelis carduelis paropanisi. Afghanistan to western Himalaya and Tien Shan.
Carduelis carduelis subulata. South-central Siberia.

Linnaeus classified the bird as Fringilla carduelis.

Behaviour

Feeding on thistles - note thistledown in bill

A goldfinch nest and eggs.

The goldfinch's preferred food is small seeds such as those from thistles (the Latin name is from Carduus, a genus of thistles) and teasels, but insects are also taken when feeding young. It also regularly visits bird feeders in winter. They nest in the outer twigs of tall leafy trees, or even in bamboo, laying four to six eggswhich hatch in 11–14 days.

In the winter goldfinches group together to form flocks of up to forty birds, occasionally more.

The song is a pleasant silvery twittering. The call is a melodic tickeLIT, and the song is a pleasant tinkling medley of trills and twitters, but always including the trisyllabic call phrase or a teLLIT-teLLIT-teLLIT.

In earlier times, the Goldfinch was kept as a cagebird for its song. Escapes from captivity and deliberate releases have colonised southeastern Australia and New Zealand.

Two on a garden birdfeeder in the UK

Goldfinches are attracted to back gardens in Europe and North America by birdfeeders containingniger (commercially described as nyjer) seed. This seed of an annual from South Asia is small, and high in oils. Special polycarbonate feeders with small oval slits at which the Goldfinches feed are sometimes used.

Relationships with humans

Captive Carduelis carduelis caniceps

Goldfinches are commonly kept and bred in captivity around the world because of their distinctive appearance and pleasant song. The Goldfinch males are sometimes crossed with Canary females with the intention to produce male mules with beautiful singing voices, that often capture the best singing attributes of both breeds.

Madonna of the Goldfinch by Raphael, (c. 1505-1506)

Because of the thistle seeds it eats, in Christian symbolism the Goldfinch is associated with the Passion and Christ's Crown of Thorns. The Goldfinch, appearing in pictures of the Madonna and the Christ Child, represents the foreknowledge Jesus and Mary had of the Crucifixion. Examples include the Madonna del cardellino or Madonna of the Goldfinch, painted (c. 1505-1506) by the Italian renaissance artist Raphael, in which John the Baptist offers the goldfinch to Christ in warning of his future. In Barocci's Holy Family a goldfinch is held in the hand of John the Baptist who holds it high out of reach of an interested cat. In Cima da Conegliano's Madonna and Child, a goldfinch flutters in the hand of the Christ Child. It is also an emblem of endurance, fruitfulness, and persistence. Because it symbolizes the Passion, the goldfinch is considered a "saviour" bird and may be pictured with the common fly (which represents sin and disease).^[4] The Goldfinch is also associated with Saint Jerome and appears in some of his depictions.^[4]

Antonio Vivaldi composed a Concerto in D major for Flute "Il Gardellino" (RV 428, Op. 10 No. 3), where the singing of the Goldfinch is imitated by a flute.

[edit]References

^ Snow, D. W. & Perrins, C. M. (1998). The Birds of the Western Palearctic concise ed. Oxford University Press. ISBN 0-19-854099-X.
^ Clement, P., Harris, A., & Davis, J. (1993). Finches & Sparrows. Christopher Helm. ISBN 0-7136-8017-2.
^ Svensson, L. (1992). Identification Guide to European Passerines. ISBN 91-630-1118-2.
^ ^a ^b Werness, Hope B. (2007). Animal Symbolism in World Art. Continuum. ISBN 0826419135.

canaries::::

The Canary (Serinus canaria), also called the Island Canary, Atlantic Canary or Common Canary, is a small passerine bird belonging to the genus Serinus in the finch family, Fringillidae. It is native to the Canary Islands, the Azores, and Madeira. Wild birds are mostly yellow-green, with brownish streaking on the back. The species is common in captivity and a number of colour varieties have been bred.

This bird is the natural symbol of the Canary Islands, together with the Canary Island Date Palm.^[2]

Description

It is approximately 12.5 cm long, with a wingspan of 20–23 cm and a weight of 15–20 g.^[3] The male has a largely yellow-green head and underparts with a yellower forehead, face andsupercilium.^[4] The lower belly and undertail-coverts are whitish and there are some dark streaks on the sides. The upperparts are grey-green with dark streaks and the rump is dull yellow.^[5] The female is similar to the male but duller with a greyer head and breast and less yellow underparts.Juvenile birds are largely brown with dark streaks.

It is about 10% larger, longer and less contrasted than its relative the serin, and has more grey and brown in its plumage and relatively shorter wings.^[3]

The song is a silvery twittering similar to the songs of the serin and citril finch.

Taxonomy

'GENUS - Serinus (serins), 'SPECIES' - caneria (canary) Classified by Linnaeus in 1758 in his Systema Naturae. Linnaeus originally classified the canary as a subspecies of the European serin and assigned them to the genus 'Fringilla'. Decades later, Cuvier reclassified them into the genus Serinus and there they have remained. The canary's closest relative is the European serin, and the two can produce on average 25% fertile hybrids if crossed.^[6]

[edit]Etymology

The bird is named after the Canary Islands, not the other way around. The islands' name is derived from the Latin name canariae insulae("islands of dogs") used by Arnobius, referring to the large dogs kept by the inhabitants of the islands.^[7] A legend of the islands, however, states that it was the conquistadors who named the islands after a fierce tribe inhabiting the largest island of the group, known as the 'Canarii'. The colour canary yellow is in turn named after the yellow domestic canary, produced by a mutation which suppressed the melanins of the original dull-greenish wild canary colour.

[edit]Distribution and habitat

It is endemic to the Canary Islands, Azores and Madeira in the region known as Macaronesia in the eastern Atlantic Ocean. In the Canary Islands, it is common on Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma and El Hierro, but more local on Gran Canaria, and rare on Lanzarote andFuerteventura, where it has only recently begun breeding.^[5]^[8] It is common in Madeira including Porto Santo and the Desertas Islands, and has been recorded on the Salvage Islands. In the Azores, it is common on all islands.^[5] The population has been estimated at 80,000-90,000 pairs in the Canary Islands, 30,000-60,000 pairs in the Azores and 4,000-5,000 pairs in Madeira.^[3]

It occurs in a wide variety of habitats from pine and laurel forests to sand dunes. It is most common in semiopen areas with small trees such as orchards and copses. It frequently occurs in man-made habitats such as parks and gardens. It is found from sea-level up to at least 760 m in Madeira, 1100 m in the Azores and to above 1500 m in the Canary Islands.^[3]

It has become established on Midway Atoll in the northwest Hawaiian Islands, where it was first introduced in 1911. It was also introduced to neighbouring Kure Atoll, but failed to become established.^[9] Birds were introduced to Bermuda in 1930 and quickly started breeding, but they began to decline in the 1940s after scale insects devastated the population of Bermuda cedar, and by the 1960s they had died out.^[10] The species also occurs in Puerto Rico, but is not yet established there.^[11]

[edit]Behaviour

[edit]Reproduction

It is a gregarious bird which often nests in groups with each pair defending a small territory. The cup-shaped nest is built 1–6 m above the ground in a tree or bush, most commonly at 3–4 m.^[5] It is well-hidden amongst leaves, often at the end of a branch or in a fork. It is made of twigs, grass, moss and other plant material and lined with soft material including hair and feathers.^[3]

The eggs are laid between January and July in the Canary Islands, from March to June with a peak of April and May in Madeira and from March to July with a peak of May and June in the Azores. They are pale blue or blue-green with violet or reddish markings concentrated at the broad end. A clutch contains 3 to 4 or occasionally 5 eggs and 2-3 broods are raised each year. The eggs are incubated for 13–14 days and the young birds leave the nest after 14–21 days, most commonly after 15–17 days.^[3]

[edit]Feeding

It typically feeds in flocks, foraging on the ground or amongst low vegetation. It mainly feeds on seeds such as those of weeds, grasses andfigs. It also feeds on other plant material and small insects.^[3] It has also been found that canaries need gravity to swallow, thus leading to death from dehydration in zero gravity conditions such as space.^[12]

[edit]Relationship with humans

Domestic canary

This species is often kept as a pet; see Domestic Canary for details. Selective breeding has produced many varieties, differing in colour and shape. Yellow birds are particularly common, while red birds have been produced by interbreeding with the red siskins. Canaries were formerly used by miners to warn of dangerous gases ("canary in a coal mine"). The bird is also widely used in scientific research. Canaries are often depicted in the media with Tweety Bird being a well-known example.

[edit]See also

[edit]External links

Wikisource has the text of the1911 Encyclopædia Britannicaarticle Canary.

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Serinus canaria

Canary videos, photos & sounds on the Internet Bird Collection

[edit]References

^ BirdLife International (2004). Serinus canaria. 2006. IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. IUCN 2006. www.iucnredlist.org. Retrieved on 12 May 2006. Database entry includes justification for why this species is of least concern.
^ Ley 7/1991, de 30 de abril, de símbolos de la naturaleza para las Islas Canarias - in spanish
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f ^g ^h Snow, D. W. & Perrins, C. M. (1998). The Birds of the Western Palearctic concise ed. Oxford University Press. ISBN 0-19-854099-X.
^ ^a ^b Clement, P., Harris, A., & and Davis, J. (1993). Finches and Sparrows. Helm ISBN 0-7136-8017-2.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d Tony Clarke, Chris Orgill & Tony Dudley (2006) Field Guide to the Birds of the Atlantic Islands, Christopher Helm, London.
^ Arnaiz-Villena, A.; Álvarez-Tejado, M.; Ruíz-del-Valle, V.; Garcĺa-de-la-Torre, C.; Varela, P.; Recio, M. J.; Ferre, S. & Martinez-Laso, J. (1999) "Rapid Radiation of Canaries (Genus Serinus)", Molecular Biology and Evolution, 16(1): 2-11.
^ Oxford English Dictionary
^ Clarke, Tony & Collins, David (1996). A Birdwatchers' Guide to the Canary Islands. Prion, Huntingdon. ISBN 1-871104-06-9.
^ Pratt, H. Douglas; Bruner, Philip L. & Berrett, Delwyn G. (1987). A Field Guide to the Birds of Hawaii and the Tropical Pacific, Princeton University Press, Chichester.
^ Amos, Eric J. R. (1991). A guide to the Birds of Bermuda.
^ American Ornithologists Union (1998). Checklist of North American Birds, 7th ed.
^ http://www.braingle.com/brainteasers/teaser.php?op=2;id=2828;comm=0

The goldfinch is one of Britain’s favourite and most attractive birds. They were once a popular pet due to their colourful plumage and enchanting singing, but now you may spot this little bird swinging on branches or twittering away in your garden.

Length: 12cm

Wingspan: 21-25.5cm

Conservation Status: Green

Description: Goldfinches are one of our prettiest birds and easily distinguished by their bright colour scheme and characteristic markings. They have a distinctive red face with a white patch behind the eye and a black crown and nape. They have a yellow wing patch, black tails and a long pointed bill. Both sexes look similar but juveniles have a grey-brown spotted plumage and lack the face markings of the adult bird which they acquire in autumn.

Nesting:Goldfinches nest in orchards, parks, gardens, villages and anywhere there are tall deciduous trees. They construct their cup shaped nests high in trees and bushes using stems, moss and plant wool and sometimes even decorate the outside of their nests with flowers! They produce 2 broods of 4-6 reddish patterned eggs which they incubate for 12-13 days.

Feeding: Outside of breeding season goldfinches form nomadic flocks, called ‘charms’ and these charms are often spotted feeding in fields and on road verges. They love seeds, buds, insects, dandelions, burdock and thistles in particular, and use their slender, tweezer like bills for extracting seeds from plants and flowers. They will feed at bird tables in your garden but prefer swinging acrobatically on hanging seed feeders.

Foods to attract Goldfinches

Canary food:

The food requirements of canaries are very simple. The prime requisite is a supply of canary seed to which is added a small quantity of rape seed and a little hemp seed. Persons having only a few birds usually buy this seed ready mixed from dealers.

The seed should be clean, well matured, and not old. If canaries do not seem to thrive it is well to examine the seed supply and crack open a few of the seeds to make certain that empty husks alone are not being fed. Too much hemp seed should be avoided, as it is very fattening.

In addition to this staple diet, lettuce, chickweed, or a bit of apple should be placed between the wires of the cage frequently. Bread that has been moistened in scalded milk, given cold, is also beneficial at times. If supplies of moist food are not kept strictly fresh and clean, bacterial diseases may result. In feeding moist foods. special dishes with holders that slip in through the wires of the cage are recommended. These are sometimes known as food holders or slides. Soft foods must not be made too wet. In the case of bread, enough liquid to soften the food, but not to run or to render it a paste, is sufficient. Perhaps once a week egg food may be given. This is prepared by mincing an entire hard-boiled egg and adding to it an equal quantity of bread or unsalted cracker crumbs. Care should be taken to use this egg food only when fresh.

Cuttle bone should always be available to the canary, and at times it is well to give prepared foods that may be secured from dealers. During the breeding season egg food can be given daily as soon as the birds are paired. It may be discontinued or given at intervals of three or four days when the female is incubating. The yolk of hard-boiled egg only may be given for the first day after the young hatch. Bread crumbs are added to this gradually, until on the third day egg food as ordinarily prepared is supplied. The usual seed supply should always be present, no matter what other food is given. Attempt should be made to regulate the supply of egg food or other soft food so that all is eaten without waste. The actual quantity will vary with individual birds.

When the young are four or five days old green food may be fed, but egg food must be given until they are fully grown and able to crack canary seed for themselves. Meal worms occasionally are good for birds that are not thriving. For delicate birds, rape seed soaked in water over night and carefully drained until dry is beneficial. When the old birds are caring for well-grown young, feeding cracked hemp seed will lighten their labor.

goldfinch:

Description

The delicate Goldfinch has beauty and charm in abundance.

This small finch is strikingly colourful with its mixture of red, white and black on the head, golden brown body and bright yellow wing bars.

Looking more closely, the lores and crown are black, the chin and forehead are red and the cheeks are white. The body is predominantly golden or tawny brown, but the belly and rump are white. The wings are mostly black with a large striking yellow band. The bill varies from pinkish to pale grey, and the legs are flash coloured.

The sexes are similar except that the male's red face extends slightly behind the eye.

Juveniles are generally a dull brown with darker streaking on the body, and lack the red, black and white markings on the head.

Voice

	Song	Call
	Quicktime mp3	Quicktime mp3

A pleasant rambling twitter or tinkling best describes the most common call of the Goldfinch.

The delightful song is a composition of this call and other rattling notes and is sometimes accompanied by the "pivoting display" in which the male drops its wings slightly and pivots from side to side.

Goldfinches used to be commonly kept as caged birds because of their colourful plumage and enchanting singing.

Feeding

Goldfinches feed on various tree seeds, such as alder and birch, and on thistle, teasel and dandelion seeds, which it can obtain owing to its thin bill and light weight.

Niger seed and teasels may attract them in gardens, especially if there are no fields nearby with thistles and dandelions, but they will also feed on sunflower hearts.

Nesting

The cup-shaped nest is built by the female with moss, grass and lichen, and lined with wool and plant down. The nest is usually in a tree towards the end of a branch or in a bush, and often in large gardens and orchards, but also in open woodland and hedgerows.

The smooth, glossy eggs are pale blue with reddish markings, and about 18 mm by 13 mm. Incubation is by the female only. The young are fed by both parents.

Breeding Data
Breeding Starts	Number of Clutches	Number of Eggs	Incubation (days)	Fledge (days)
late April	2-3	3-7	10-14	13-18

Movements

Some of our breeding birds migrate to the south-western Europe, e.g. France and Spain. Interestingly, many more of these birds are females than males, and birds that migrate one year will not necessarily migrate in others. The autumn population is increased by the passage of European birds down eastern Britain.

They make the most use of our gardens at the same time in late spring every year - between returning from their wintering grounds and the start of breeding, and at a time when natural food resources are at their lowest. More interestingly, this finch is increasingly using garden bird feeders, this may be because natural resources are in steady decline or more gardens are offering niger seed and sunflower hearts, which are both high energy foods that Goldfinches seem to prefer.

Conservation

The Goldfinches have more or less recovered from a serious decline in the 1970s and 80s that was possibly caused by increased use of herbicides, but changing agricultural practices still threaten this bird. Consequently, they are subject to a Medium BTO Alert.

canary:

Introduction to the Pet Canary

Species: Serinus canaria
Actually a member of the finch family, native to the Canary Islands
The wild canary is greenish yellow over most of their body with yellow underparts. The domestic canary comes in an array of bright colors.
Canaries can live up to 10 years.
Males canaries sing better than females, although the canary may not sing as much during a molt.
Do not require a great deal of attention and are suitable for beginning pet bird owners.
Canaries are not social birds so will a single pet canary will be happy.

Pet Canary Cages

Get the largest cage possible, that allows for room for flight (a pet canary should never have his or her wings clipped and should be able to fly in the cage for exercise).
"Flight" type cages are the best (home built or commercial) since they are designed to provide room to move. Remember that a long cage is better than a tall narrow one (the height is not all that important). Try to get a cage at least 24 inches long.
Watch the spacing between bars - no more than 1/2 inch.
Wire cages are best, wood or bamboo cages are too difficult to keep clean.
Perches: wood perches of varied diameter work best (3/8 to 3/4 inches). Some canary keepers alter smooth round perches by scraping them with a saw blade or utility knife, just enough make the surface slightly irregular (easier to grip and the variety may make the perches more comfortable for the canary's feet). Do not use sandpaper perch covers.
Temperature: canaries are pretty hardy and can be kept at room temperature. Keep the cage away from draughts, air conditioners and windows that receive direct sunlight (the cage and canary can get overheated).
Light: cover the cage at night, at the time the sun goes down (unless you live in an area with extremely long nights or days such as the far north). Canaries need their rest and will do best if given a light/dark cycle that approximates natural changes. Keeping them up late with artificial light is not healthy for them.
Toys: provide toys, but place them in the cage in such a way as they do not obstruct flight space. Your canary might enjoy swings, mirrors, bells, and hanging wooden or acrylic toys.
Fresh water should be available at all times.
A shallow dish of water or a special bath bought at the pet store should be provided at least 3-4 times a week for bathing.

Feeding Your Pet Canary

A good quality seed mixture suitable for canaries can be the mainstay of their diet.
Pelleted diets suitable for a canary can be offered as well - these are not as palatable as seeds but many owners keep a dish of pellets in the cage along with a dish of seeds.
Fresh foods and greens should also be offered. Good choices include apples, oranges, bananas, green peppers, canned corn, fresh corn on the cob, cooked broccoli, raw spinach, raw dandelions, raw collard greens, raw Swiss chard, pears, peaches, strawberries, cucumbers, squash, etc. Bits of hard boiled egg can also be offered occasionally.

As seeds are eaten the hulls may be left in the dish, so at a quick glance the seed dish may look full when in fact it is just hulls. Blow the hulls off the seed dish at least daily and replenish the seeds as necessary.