Question:

We have always had two dogs. Initially two beagles, the male passed away and we got a lakeland terrier. We had our 16 year old female beagle who died recently and now only have our 3 year old female Lakeland Terrier. Our Lakeland has always respected the older Beagle, but she is very territorial. What would be a good breed to match up with a Lakie – we will definitely only consider a male – would an english bulldog be a good match?

Maria

ANSWER:

Hi Maria,

I must confess, I had to look up the Lakeland Terrier as I was not sure about this breed. I checked the temperament part and according to CKC and AKC states that this breed is confident and a working terrier that orginated in Cumberland England. This breed was bred to be both to catch vermin and for herding.

So what breed would be compatible? As this breed is both sociable and confident, any breed would do. She respected your beagle as he was there first and had established his territory and ownership of the house. Any dog you get whether a pup or a rescue, please keep in mind that your Lakeland was there first. Treat the situation this way. Some people would say that you should feed the “alpha” dog first and then the other dog. The “alpha” being the one that was there first.

It should be noted that dogs will arrange their own pecking order and you should be observant of this.

Once you get the second dog, be sure to lavish a lot of attention on your Lakeland and give her a lot of alone time while training your new dog.

The Lakeland looks like an exeptional breed.

I should have mentioned this at the beginning of this answer, however, I am so sorry for your loss. Sixteen is a great age for a beagle.

Hope this answer helps
Nancy

As some of you may or may not know, I do not usually like the whole doggy dress up thing. I don’t really think that dogs need to wear clothes in the house, bathing suits at the beach, or party dresses at special occasions. To me, a well-behaved dog speaks volumes whereas a well-dressed dog may say as much, but not necessarily what you want the world to know about you.

Where my attitude changes is in practical clothes for dogs – sweaters for the winter, raincoats in rainy weather, and boots for when it is either very cold or very hot! And, well, if I am going to dress my dog in practical clothes to protect them from the elements, I am going to make sure he looks cool.

With winter around the corner, I decided it was time to look through OMDS’ Canine Collection. I found there were three basic criterias: wet weather gear, cold weather outdoor gear, and cozy indoor sweaters. Over the next month, we are going to look at practical winter gear for dogs of all shapes and sizes.

This week – wet weather!

Wet weather can be hard on dogs and owners alike. It can chill the pooch through, especially dogs that have a thin or short-haired coat and nothing is more frustrating than spending an hour walking your long-haired dog only to spend another hour drying them.

For a wet weather jacket, I always look for jackets that cover the abdomen and arms well so body heat stays in as well as keeping the wet away from these sensitive areas. Hoods are great if the dog will tolerate them; do not expect your prick ear dog to like wearing a hood ever. The other thing I look for is the ability to snug the jacket up with elastic cinch chords so that drafts and rain cannot find their way into the jacket, chilling your dog against your best efforts.

For cute and practical, I found our Dots and Ruffles Rain Coat met my criteria and for practical only, our Camo Jacket is waterproof, has a hood, and comes in three colors of camo.

Always watch the fit of any piece of clothing to make sure the arm holes do not bind and the chest is not too tight.

Next week we look at cold weather gear and how best to protect your pet from Old Man Winter!

Lisa wrote in a three part question about her five month old Labrador Levi:

“My second problem is he will not stop jumping up at you, I think he thinks you have a treat for him, What is a good way to stop the jumping. I have tried turning away but he just jumps on your butt, and I have tried kneeing him, (I don’t like that one ) but even that don’t work he just comes back for more like it is a game, any suggestion at all will be appreciated.”

Hi Lisa,

Dogs jump on us to show dominance and because they have gotten away with it in the past. In many cases, we have actually encouraged the behavior when they were little by petting them when they put their front paws on us – why wouldn’t they continue the behavior as an a naughty teenager?

The best thing is to walk into him when he jumps. Keep it simple and do not make it aggressive or playful otherwise he will do the same thing that he does when you knee him (I don’t like that one either – very old school training method although it does work on some dogs). It takes a bit to get used to doing as it feels wrong or like you are going to step on his toes but it works.

It is a form of body block and if you watch dogs or wolves interact, you will see that the alpha dog or wolf is never asked to move by a member of the pack. Instead, the dominant dog will either turn into the other dog, shoulder check him, or block his path completely. It is up to the subservient dog to walk around or move for the alpha. By walking into your dog, you are showing yourself as alpha because it is up to him to move for you. Simple doggy psychology.

Remember to tell visitors to do the same thing or put him in a down/stay until he is calm as the last thing you need is your grandmother or your two year old niece to be the ones he jumps on next!

See you Thursday, Lisa, for part three of the Case of the Crazy Lab!

Question:

I have a 5 month chocolate lab puppy that I have had since he was 6 weeks old. , I have just learned about this great website Ohmydogsupplies… well Oh my dog will not stop biting on the leash when I put it on him, he bites, tugs, pulls, flips around, all the way to the street, then he stops and walks like a perfect puppy. How can I stop him from biting the leash.. I have tried no bite sprays, I have tried harnesses verses a leash on his collar. Help !!! My neighbors think my dog is vicious! He really is not but when he sees that leash , watch out CRAZY dog appears!! My Sister has his bother and he does the same thing, is it genetic, I truly don’t remember my other two dogs doing this.. Help me!! I am desperate, I will do anything, if it helps !!

Lisa

ANSWER:

Hi Lisa,
Sounds like you have your hands full! I am going to break your question into three parts so come back over the next few days for the full answer!

Leash misbehavior in young pups is common but it is easy to stop with the right training.

My first suggestion would be to wear him out a bit before the walk – play fetch with him for a few minutes in the backyard or anything that will let him expel that first burst of energy before you put him on a leash.

Next, do not give in to his silliness. Make him sit/stay while you put the leash on and do not start to walk until he is calm. Use quiet, calming tones that encourage him to be calm. If he starts to jump around, just stand there until he is calm. Once he does calm down though, give him a huge ‘good boy’ and start your walk. If he steps out nicely, keep walking but if he starts being a crazy pup, stop and stand still until calms down again. Repeat. It may take you thirty minutes to get down the driveway the first time but once he knows the only way he is going to get out onto the sidewalk where all the new smells are is by behaving, he will quickly come around!

Come back Monday for Part Two of the Case of the Crazy Lab!

Question:

I have an 8 year old beagle, we bought him a new comfy bed and now he lays in it and licks the entire bed every night, we also have a throw blanket we leave on the floor for him and he started licking it too.

Lazarus

ANSWER:

Hi Lazarus,

How odd although I am finding out not that uncommon. Did you happen to notice anything else that coincided with the new bed such as a change in food or an increase in thirst?

My first instinct is to have him checked over my your vet, especially his mouth and teeth. Infections, gingivitis, and growths can all lead to lick behavior in dogs but normally it is not reserved to just one or two items.

If he comes back with a clean bill of health, you may have to look at other options. Have you tried washing the bed since you bought it? It may be something it is treated with that would make it taste good. Remove the bed for a night or two and replace it with a different blanket. Does he still ‘wash’ his bed?

To stop the licking, pick up a bottle of Bitter Apple from your local hardware or pet store and liberally spray the bed. Most dogs do not like the taste and are discouraged from inappropriate licking or chewing.

Does anyone else have any suggestions on why the dog is licking the bed?
Let us know what the vet says and if he offers any other suggestions.

Ann

Question:

I rescued a 1/2 springer pup at six weeks. She is wonderful with my family,kids,friends and other dogs she knows. She is aggressive towards anyone she does not know and will raise her hackles,bark, and has nipped at people such as delivery men and will not stop even if I call her down. I am really afraid she will really lay into someone. She is 2 years old. Is she a lost cause? She will not be detoured with treats. I have tried to get her to stop barking and being agressive towards our one neighbor when she checks her mail and she still barks and is aggressive towards her. Is there anything I can do besides get rid of her? My kids love her.

ANSWER:

Hi Beth,

Dog aggression is a scary problem and I understand your concern. The best answer I can give is to contact an animal behaviorist and begin to retrain her. Aggression is a problem best handled in person and by a professional. I know, not the answer you were looking for but it is the only real solution.

Contact your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist or let me know where you live and I will find someone for you.

Everyone: aggression in dogs is not something to take lightly and is best dealt with immediately! Always take it seriously and find help as soon as possible as early behavior modification can make all the difference in the world.
Good luck and email me with your location at ann@ohmydogsupplies.com.

Ann

Question:

I have a 2 year old Corgi/Shepherd mix who loves to play with large hard plastic balls.  Buddy especially enjoys herding the ball at high speed.  When playing outside everything is fine for a short period but, after a bit, as he lowers his head to move the ball, he’ll suddenly start yanking up tufts of grass and throwing them off to the side before pushing the ball again, stopping every few feet to grab more grass.  He does it regardless of the height of the grass.  This is a disaster for the lawn.  We haven’t been able to figure out how to stop the grass snatching.  Any suggestions?

ANSWER:

Hi Tricia,

You stated your dog likes to play with a hard plastic ball and then eats a lot of grass. I am wondering if you have checked the ball for pieces of plastic missing. Does he chew off any of the ball? Have you checked his stool? Are there pieces of plastic in the stool?
I ask these questions as often dogs will eat grass when their stomach is upset. Instead of a hard plastic ball, I would suggest that you get a soft ball at the pet store. They have many different types that resemble soccer balls. If the ball has a squeaky noise maker do not leave your dog alone with the toy as often they can come out of the toy and the dog can swallow it.

If none of the above is occuring and your dog just likes to eat grass………………….
One suggestion would be to mark off a certain area of your yard for the dog to graze and train him to stay in that area. You could use wire mesh that can be bought at the hardware store to mark of that area or use an Xpen.

An X pen is made of the same material as a wire crate only there is no floor and allows the dog more movement. It is sort of like a playpen for dogs.

Before marking off a certain area with mesh fence or getting an X pen, I strongly suggest that you check and see if your dog is biting off pieces of the hard plastic ball.
Hope this helps.

Nancy

Picture in your head sleeping on the floor on a thin mat or a bed that has lost it’s loft or puffiness. Dog beds are not something we usually put a lot of thought into – we buy what is the right color for the room at the right price. What about canine comfort? Sleeping on the floor means you are open to a ton of drafts as well as the cold pushing up from below in many concrete or older buildings. Providing a bed that protects from both drafts and the cold is vital for your dog’s good rest.

I recently stumbled upon the Comfy Cove Dog Bed – an amazing invention that I cannot believe no one thought of before now. First, like most beds, it has a soft, cushiony pillow that keeps dogs warm while up and off the ground. The coolest part, however, is the cave made by a well-designed top pouch. It is reminiscent of a pita pocket with your dog posing as the filling. Most dogs like to burrow and instead of providing a blanket on top of the bed for them to nestle into, this bed comes with one built in. Your dog stays as warm as they want with no extra laundry or blankets to pick up every day.

Brilliant idea! I am ordering two, one for each of my boyfriend’s Boxers who seem to think now that the house is a little colder at night, they should be allowed under the covers. I enjoy snuggling with them when they are awake but these two insist on sharing your pillow then continue to snore and drool making for a very bad night’s sleep!

I receive a lot of dog stuff and geek stuff in my inbox each day – name of the game when you work with animals and work off the internet I guess. However, this is one of the first times that my love of dogs and my fascination for technology have collided!

Pet Acoustics has developed an iPhone app that you can make play soothing music for your pet during times of stress toned specifically for the canine ear (or cat or horse depending on which four-legged animal is stressed at the time – there are apps for each).

My interest is how many people we have write in saying their pet is suffering from separation anxiety or fear of thunderstorms and would this music actually help.

Here is what the company says:
“Animals have extremely sensitive hearing that includes different ranges than their human companions. Janet Marlow, composer and the leading authority on music for animals, has created a musical genre that soothes your pet with separation anxieties, for thunderstorm nerves or just for calm in their living environment. Using limited frequencies, non-jarring volumes, and rhythms designed for an animal’s acute hearing, Pet Acoustics fills your pets’ environment with a sense of safety and balance and calm.

The Pet Acoustics App is for you and your pet together! Relaxation Music for My Dog and Me, My Cat and Me, and My Horse and Me will enhance your quality time together anytime, anywhere with the portability of the iPhone and iPod Touch. Play your choice of music for dogs, cats, or horses to put your pet at ease during thunderstorms, alone time, car travel, vet visits, grooming, and training. The Pet Acoustics application is perfect for pet boarding, animal shelters, or to assist our four legged friends as they recover from injury or abuse.

Pet Acoustics Features Include:
• Play your choice of music categorized by pet type and environment
• Multiple timers to set music to play at designated times
• Hearing analysis for each type of animal
• Environment and best use recommendations for each track
• Works with iPhone and iPod Touch

“After my years of research and testing I have learned that music can make a huge difference in the quality of life for dogs, cats and horses. Now, with Pet Acoustics Apple app people and their pets can create a state of relaxation in any environment,” says Pet Acoustics founder and composer Janet Marlow.

Pet Acoustics Application is available for $1.99 through iTunes or by visiting www.PetAcoustics.com.”

Anyone out there want to test this for us and let us know? I do not have an iPhone..yet although this may give me a good excuse to buy one!
Ann

I don’t know about other dog owners, but there are times when I am walking my dog on leash and do not want her to walk, even if I am. An example would be walking down a slippery slope or wet stairs and I do not want any pressure on the leash that may pull me off my feet.

‘Stop’ could be used just as easily as ‘wait’, it is just a matter of personal preference but ‘wait’ is a more natural term that can be used in tons of different ways where ‘stop’ is a panic word. ‘Wait’ as the human brain understands it can be applied to more circumstances, say for example if you want your dog to wait before eating their dinner, taking a treat or picking up a toy.

Why is ‘wait’ different then ‘stay’? Stay is normally used after another command. First you get your dog into a ‘sit’ and then you say ‘stay’ and they know to not move from the sitting position. ‘Wait’ is a command all on its own that has them just pause in whatever position or activity they are currently doing. So, if they are walking, they stop. If they are standing, they continue standing. There is no putting them into a position first.

The ‘wait’ or ‘stop’ command also worked wonderfully when she was off lead. If we were on a trail and she was getting a little to far in front of me, one command and she would pause until I told her to walk on. She loved people but was an intimidating looking German Shepherd so as she approached strangers ahead of me, I could have her wait until I was beside her, alleviating the stress on the other person.

‘Wait’ also works well with ‘down’ in some cases such as when she would be chasing a squirrel or someone’s cat.

Training my dog to stop walking and ‘wait’ became even more useful as she aged. Sable was notorious for forgetting she needed a hand into the car or up the stairs and would try to get in on her own before I was even at the car. This was never pretty. Using ‘wait’ as she neared the car or stairs or anywhere I thought I might need to assist her saved her a few bumps and bruises through her final years.

To train ‘wait’, start using it when out for a walk. Have your dog ‘heel’ beside you and as you walk along, put some pressure on her collar so she cannot walk while saying ‘Fifi, wait’ in a soft, warning tone. Hold her for a second, then release the pressure and say ‘okay!’ or whatever her release word is while stepping off again. Give her a treat. Walk a few more paces and repeat, always using the pressure on the leash to force her to stop. After a few repetitions, lessen the pressure on the leash but be prepared to give her a mild correction if she does not stop moving. When she stops, reward her immediately with a treat. Pause. Then give her release word and step off again.

She will figure this out quickly.

Next, try her food dish at mealtime. Put your hand on her collar while you put her dish on the floor and saying ‘Fifi, wait’. Give her release command and let go of her collar at the same time. No need to reward, she has her dinner – a huge reward!

Start using it at other times as well. Play on the floor with her with a toy. Toss it a few feet in front of her and, while saying ‘Fifi, wait’, put your hand on her collar so she cannot go after the toy. Wait a few minutes and release her as usual.

The more ways you learn to use the command, the more uses you will find for it. It was probably one of my most used commands because it had so many applications and was a very natural term to use, at least for me.

Good luck and let me know how your dogs are doing with all these new commands we are teaching!

Ann