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	<title>Good Dog Blog</title>
	
	<link>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog</link>
	<description>Dog and Puppy Behavior and Training</description>
	<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 21:15:15 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>My Dogs Are Protective of Me and Bark At My Guests</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/c_XbLi2M0LE/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/my-dogs-are-protective-of-me-and-bark-at-my-guests/2009/07/18/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 21:15:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Behavior]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Lifestyle]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Training Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=989</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
My two Dachshunds are very protective of me and bark long and loud at people who come over or delivery people, etc. I&#8217;ve tried to calm them and would like to know how anyone else has taught their dog to stop barking once they&#8217;ve alerted their owner that someone is at the door. My dogs [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-990" title="122737_elle_3" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/122737_elle_3-150x150.jpg" alt="122737_elle_3" width="150" height="150" />Question:</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>My two Dachshunds are very protective of me and bark long and loud at people who come over or delivery people, etc. I&#8217;ve tried to calm them and would like to know how anyone else has taught their dog to stop barking once they&#8217;ve alerted their owner that someone is at the door. My dogs were very isolated for about a year as I was taking care of my elderly mother with Alzheimer&#8217;s. She had begun to be mean to them, so I had to leave them at my home alone most days, for 10-12 hrs. I know this isolation was bad for them, but there was no choice. Any help would be appreciated. They respond to male voices, but I&#8217;m a widow and there are seldom men around. Thank you.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Terry<br />
</em></strong></p>
<p>
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<p><strong>ANSWER:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Hi Terry,</p>
<p>Barking dogs are frustrating, I know. We want them to bark to alert us there may be an intruder but when they go on and on and on…and on, well, it does become a nuisance. It becomes an obsessive behavior with them and the more we try to get them to stop, the more frantic they become. We feed their excitement. As we get more frantic, they say to themselves ‘hey, there really must be a problem if mom is this upset – quick, bark louder!’ And two dogs only learn to feed off the others energy, escalating the excitement even more.</p>
<p>Like most obsessive behaviors, however, there is a work around. Read Grisha Stewart’s entry on ball obsession from June 7th (<a href="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/ball-obsession/2009/06/07/">click here </a>for the entry) and use the same theory to deal with your<br />
Doxies obsession with protecting you.</p>
<p>The ‘all gone’ command is a great one for dog’s to know – it basically stops a behavior in its tracks, even if it is a positive behavior such as a barking dog. In this case, once the command is taught, allow your dogs a couple of barks and then say ‘thank you, their names, all gone’ in a happy voice and show them the open, palms forward signal. They should quickly learn that a couple of barks is great but that is all that is required of them.</p>
<p>Does anyone else have any suggestions? Hope this helps, and let us know how they do!</p>
<p>Ann</p>
<p></strong></p>
<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/GoodDog/~4/c_XbLi2M0LE" height="1" width="1"/>]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Toxic Food and Substances: Mushrooms</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/84LQ7O0YRh8/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/toxic-food-and-substances-mushrooms/2009/07/17/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 21:13:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Health & Fitness]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Nutrition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=986</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Solid and qualified information available on mushroom toxicity specifically for dogs is somewhat limited. In a nutshell, mushrooms and dogs to not get along well. Six of the eight categories of mushroom toxin type are of ‘veterinary significance’. Here in North America, all six categories are represented. 
Even mushrooms that are safe for humans can [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-987" title="1123344_mushroom_macro" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/1123344_mushroom_macro-150x150.jpg" alt="1123344_mushroom_macro" width="150" height="150" />Solid and qualified information available on mushroom toxicity specifically for dogs is somewhat limited. In a nutshell, mushrooms and dogs to not get along well. Six of the eight categories of mushroom toxin type are of ‘veterinary significance’. Here in North America, all six categories are represented. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Even mushrooms that are safe for humans can cause neurological and liver problems so are best avoided. Most mushroom poisonings in dogs are related to puppies investigating the new and wonderful great outdoors. </strong></p>
<p><strong>The amount of reported cases of mushroom toxicity are very low throughout North America but experts believe the problem is both unreported and under diagnosed. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Onset and severity of symptoms can be anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours depending on the type and how much of the mushroom was ingested. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Symptoms include:</strong></p>
<p><strong>* Vomiting<br />
* Diarrhea<br />
* Hyper salivation (excessive salivation)<br />
* Abdominal Pain<br />
* Lethargy<br />
* Jaundice<br />
* Seizures<br />
* Coma<br />
* Death</strong></p>
<p><strong>This is a good example of why you bring a sample of the vomitus material with you when you go to the vet if you do not know why your dog is vomiting – the only accurate diagnosis of the poisoning is by examining the vomit for bits of mushroom. * Do not put vomitus in a plastic bag but find paper towel, wax paper, paper bag, etc to better preserve samples. There are no tests that will identify mushroom poisoning and although specific diagnosis is not always necessary (treatment for so many toxins are the same), ruling out other poisons helps to narrow down the playing field to a manageable level. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Treatment includes inducing vomiting, preferably by your veterinarian. However, if you are more then a few hours from a vet and you specifically saw your dog swallow mushrooms, make your dog swallow a few ounces of hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting. Remember to bring a sample of the vomit as well as a few of the mushrooms if there are any left. Treatment includes activated charcoal to bind toxins and lessen absorption, IV fluid therapy to prevent dehydration and support kidney and liver function, treatment for acute kidney or liver failure if that occurs, and treatment for the seizures if any occur. </strong></p>
<p><strong>In this case, like so many of the toxins we have covered, prevention is the key to mushroom toxicity. Check your yard for any fairy rings, keep an eye out for a ‘fungus among us’ when out hiking and watch for mushrooms when giving dogs any leftovers. </strong></p>
<p><strong>For some really complicated but fascinating information on the toxic categories of mushrooms, <a href="http://veterinarymedicine.dvm360.com/vetmed/Medicine/ArticleStandard/Article/detail/403845">click here</a>. </strong></p>
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		<item>
		<title>My Dog Gets Carsick, How Can I Help?</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/z3amIdXz_xs/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/my-dog-gets-carsick-how-can-i-help/2009/07/16/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:09:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Health & Fitness]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Lifestyle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=983</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
My dog gets carsick a lot. How can I stop this??
Brynn


ANSWER:
Hi Brynn,
Some dogs have very sensitive stomachs when it comes to car rides, especially pups or dogs that have not spent much time in cars.
Whenever I introduce a dog or pup to the car, I always start slow. Let the dog hang out in the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-984" title="292_dog_in_the_backseat" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/292_dog_in_the_backseat-150x150.jpg" alt="292_dog_in_the_backseat" width="150" height="150" />Question:</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>My dog gets carsick a lot. How can I stop this??</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Brynn<br />
</em></strong></p>
<p><!--adsense--></p>
<p><strong>ANSWER:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Hi Brynn,</p>
<p>Some dogs have very sensitive stomachs when it comes to car rides, especially pups or dogs that have not spent much time in cars.</p>
<p>Whenever I introduce a dog or pup to the car, I always start slow. Let the dog hang out in the car for a while before it starts to move so that they are familiar with their crate, seat belt or pet barrier. I then take them on short drives to the local park so that they get a break from the car and the car ride is part of the fun of going to the park. Building in this way allows dogs to adjust to all levels of the car ride before they are forced into a long car ride or being left in the car for any length of time.</p>
<p>If this approach of almost reintroducing and then desensitizing your dog to cars and car rides does not work, then you may need to try the less natural approach.</p>
<p>For dogs that get carsick easily, I usually recommend giving them half a Gravol to calm their stomach. The vomiting is a combination of the movement but also the stress of being in the car – it is almost a learned response. One of my dogs as a young pup would vomit before the car even moved so you cannot tell me that was from motion!</p>
<p>Give your dog a half a normal Gravol 30 minutes before the drive for the next few car rides. If no vomiting occurs, try the reintroduction process. Fun, short, exciting rides with a walk in the middle should take the anxiety away.</p>
<p>Many people suggest not feeding a dog prior to a car ride so even if they do vomit, it is not much to clean up. I don’t know about you but I have had a few dogs that would vomit up bile if they had an empty stomach. I usually suggest a small, maybe a quarter of what you would normally feed your dog, before the car ride. This means there is not much clean up but you do not have to worry about the acid stomach nausea that happens to many dogs (and humans! I hate that feeling!).</p>
<p>Does anyone else have an suggestions on how to over come car sickness in dogs?</p>
<p>Good luck and let us know how it works!</p>
<p>Ann</p>
<p></strong></p>
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		<item>
		<title>My Adopted Dog Has Been Shy Around Us, Is Something Wrong?</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/pzQ_JKJ_3IU/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/my-adopted-dog-has-been-shy-around-us-is-something-wrong/2009/07/15/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Jul 2009 20:36:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Nancy Tobis</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Health & Fitness]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Lifestyle]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Rescue & Adoption]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Training Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=1124</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
I recently adopted an 8 month old Alaskan Klee Kai. Our first couple of weeks we expected her to be a little shy around us, but now that its going on about a month we are starting to wonder what is wrong. Whenever we try to pet her she shies away as if we are [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-1125" title="786573_husky_canine" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/07/786573_husky_canine-150x150.jpg" alt="786573_husky_canine" width="150" height="150" />Question:</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>I recently adopted an 8 month old Alaskan Klee Kai. Our first couple of weeks we expected her to be a little shy around us, but now that its going on about a month we are starting to wonder what is wrong. Whenever we try to pet her she shies away as if we are going to hurt her. I have even tried to give her and treat and then pet her and she would run away from my hand, and leave the treat behind. Also when we let her outside to run around in our yard it is almost impossible to get her to come back inside. Even when we try to bribe her with a treat she is more likely to take the treat and then run back outside. Then when we go outside and try to catch her she will run around in circles and again she seems like she is afraid of us.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Scott<br />
</em></strong></p>
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<p><strong>ANSWER:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Hello Scott,</strong></p>
<p><strong>As I was a bit unfamiliar with the breed I had to look it up.  They are basically smaller versions of the Alaskan Husky and a relatively new breed only since the 1970&#8217;s. These dogs were bred to be companion animals and do well with humans who are firm. They can be skittish around strangers however.</strong></p>
<p><strong>As you just adopted this eight month old pup and she has only been with you a short time, perhaps she needs to build trust and still views you and your family as strangers.</strong></p>
<p><strong>It takes a very long time for some dogs to adjust to a new home. I personally have never had a re-homed dog, however I do know people that foster dogs and they have said it takes a long time for them to rebuild trust.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Do you know anything about this dog&#8217;s first eight months, where she came from, her history?  Do you know if she was kept outside or was around humans.<br />
I do suggest that you do not force the dog.  What you basically need to do is, when feeding be there and continually throw some treats in her food bowl, this way she will begin to associate treats with you and feeding time. It serves a dual purpose in that it prevents food bowl possessiveness, especially if you are putting your hands in the food bowl.</strong></p>
<p><strong>This is one way to build trust. Another is through taking her to puppy classes and she will learn to focus on you during classes.</strong></p>
<p><strong>There is a wonderful book about building trust with our canine companions called &#8220;If Dogs could Dream, Bones would Rain from the Sky&#8221; by Suzanne Cloutier.</strong></p>
<p><strong>I hope this helps.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Nancy Tobis</strong></p>
<p><em>Outside of the dog world, Nancy has both a Bachelor of Social Work and Masters degree in Criminology, which led her to become a correctional social worker. For over 30 years, she has been a practicing social worker, working in Children&#8217;s Services and Corrections.</em></p>
<p><em>“In  2004, I decided to go to the IPDTA conference just to see what it was about. It was amazing, all these dog trainers talking about using operant conditioning,” exclaims Nancy. “I decided that I wanted to be part of that world. The amazing journey of becoming a positive dog trainer had begun. I am still on this new adventure and learning more every day. I did not realize there was so much information and theory to learn about canine behavior and emotions. My social work background has helped immensely as much of the theory I learned at university about human emotions applies aptly to dogs.” </em></p>
<p><em>The Good Dog Blog welcomes Nancy and her background in both dog-training as well canine nutrition. To learn more about Nancy, visit her website, <a href="http://www.devotedtodogs.ca/">Devoted to Dogs</a> and her <a href="http://devotedtodogs.blogspot.com/">Devoted to Dogs Blog</a>.</em></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Toxic Food and Substances: Salt in Large Quantities</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/WiAKJXULqAw/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/toxic-food-and-substances-salt-in-large-quantities/2009/07/14/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Jul 2009 21:07:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Health & Fitness]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Nutrition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=980</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Ingesting large quantities of salt cause an electrolyte imbalance in both dogs and humans. The most common way for a dog to ingest enough salt for this to happen is by eating paintballs or homemade play dough (flour and salt combo). However, sodium bicarbonate, sodium phosphate-containing enemas, and hypertronic saline can cause the same problem. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-981" title="936096_salt" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/936096_salt-150x150.jpg" alt="936096_salt" width="150" height="150" />Ingesting large quantities of salt cause an electrolyte imbalance in both dogs and humans. The most common way for a dog to ingest enough salt for this to happen is by eating paintballs or homemade play dough (flour and salt combo). However, sodium bicarbonate, sodium phosphate-containing enemas, and hypertronic saline can cause the same problem. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Electrolytes are found in body fluid, tissue, and blood and help conduct electricity. Salt, or sodium, and potassium are the two most important electrolytes. Proper electrolyte balance is vital for muscle coordination, heart function, fluid absorption and excretion, nerve function, and concentration. </strong></p>
<p><strong>The kidneys regulate the correct electrolyte balance as well as fluid absorption and excretion. Any extra sodium or potassium is excreted through alimentary system to maintain the careful balance. </strong></p>
<p><strong>A body with an excess of salt in it is in a state of hypernatremia. Symptoms of hypernatremia include lethargy, delirium, irritability, hyperthermia, muscle twitching and tremors, seizures, coma and eventually death. Dehydration, diabetes, renal failure, and blood loss can all cause hypernatremia as well. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Treatment includes slowly replenishing and adding IV fluid to the system to dilute sodium levels and support kidney function. </strong></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Barking Chorus</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/gDwYFu0CIm0/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/barking-chorus-2/2009/07/14/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Jul 2009 20:03:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Behavior]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Lifestyle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=927</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
My three Daschunds used to be so well behaved, but they’re becoming more naughty every day. They have started barking when they get their leads on and in the car as we approach their favourite walk. They also bark on the way home and all the way into the house. No matter what I do [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-928" title="122736_elle_2" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/122736_elle_2-150x150.jpg" alt="122736_elle_2" width="150" height="150" />Question:</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>My three Daschunds used to be so well behaved, but they’re becoming more naughty every day. They have started barking when they get their leads on and in the car as we approach their favourite walk. They also bark on the way home and all the way into the house. No matter what I do their excitment seems to grow by the day.  It’s really getting out of hand and I want some peace back!<br />
</em></strong></p>
<p><!--adsense--></p>
<p><strong>ANSWER:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Excited barking is quite infectious and three dogs barking loudly is no joke.  First of all, you need to remember that any attention from you (even shouting) will be rewarding their behaviour and the barking will get worse.  It may even seem to them as though you are joining in.<br />
The best but most time-consuming way to deal with the problem is to teach each of them, individually, to bark on command and to be quiet on command.  This will mean taking each one separately on a daily basis for short training sessions – first trying to excite them so that they bark, or ‘speak’, and giving a reward and then asking for quiet and wiat for the barking to stop before giving a reward. Gradually lengthen the time being quiet before the reward is given until each dog is clear what ‘speak’ and ‘quiet’ mean and will readily respond.<br />
In the meantime, try to change your routine – perhaps take them out for 3 smaller walks at different times of the day rather than one walk at a set time – so that their excitement about going out is diluted and make sure you don’t add to their excitement by the way you behave towards them. Keep everything low key and and stop what you’re doing if it creates barking. For example, if they start barking as soon as you pick the leads up, put the leads back down again, walk away and do something else. Don’t pick up the leads again until they are quiet.</strong><strong> You’ll need to be patient and consistent and be prepared to wait some time before you can expect good results.</strong></p>
<p><strong></strong><br />
<em>Written by Karen Allport, resident <a href="http://www.bedogsavvy.com/">dog training</a> expert from Be Dog Savvy.  For more dog <a href="http://www.bedogsavvy.com/category/training/">training articles</a> from Karen, visit bedogsavvy.com</em></p>
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		<title>How Can I Get My Dog Used to Topknots?</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/EvJ-EaHCUw8/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/how-can-i-get-my-dog-used-to-topknots/2009/07/13/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2009 21:04:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Grooming]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Lifestyle]]></category>

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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=977</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
I have a 4-month old shih tzu/maltese. I really want him to get used to tying his hair. But whenever I try, he would lie down on his back or roll. One time I tried to force him. He squirmed so much and he whined and barked a little. I don&#8217;t want to do that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-978" title="736946_perro_matar_01" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/736946_perro_matar_01-150x150.jpg" alt="736946_perro_matar_01" width="150" height="150" />Question:</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>I have a 4-month old shih tzu/maltese. I really want him to get used to tying his hair. But whenever I try, he would lie down on his back or roll. One time I tried to force him. He squirmed so much and he whined and barked a little. I don&#8217;t want to do that again. What can I do to make him get used to topknots?</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Dana<br />
</em></strong></p>
<p><!--adsense--></p>
<p><strong>ANSWER:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Hi Dana,</p>
<p>After all the years of answering readers questions in dog columns for newspapers, magazines and now this blog, I have never had anyone ask me that question. And as bad as it sounds, I do not have any specific experience with shih tzu top knots. However, this is where we turn to our wonderful readers and ask for their assistance:</p>
<p>Does anyone have specific experience with getting young dogs used to their top knots?</p>
<p>My suggestions would be using a distraction while you are putting it in such as a peanut butter in a Kong if you can do it while he is lying down to eat or even a bit of peanut butter on the top of his nose. If you have a friend handy that is willing to help, try getting them to hold a bit of soft dog treat tight in their hand with only a small hole with which to bite off a tiny bit at a time. Make him work to get it. This trick is often incorporated for trimming toenails, removing stitches, or anything where you need the dog to refrain from moving.</p>
<p>My other thought would be using something in his topknot that is quick to put in such as a barrette instead of an elastic band. Could it be the amount of time it takes to wind the elastic band around the top knot that is driving him crazy? Hard to say.</p>
<p>Make sure that you are telling him he is a good dog when he sits still and discouraging his whining, barking and rolling over antics with a ‘eh eh eh’ noise. A solid stay command will help as well.</p>
<p>Does anyone else have any suggestions? I am at a loss on this problem I’m afraid!</p>
<p>Ann</p>
<p></strong></p>
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		<title>New Cancer Treatment Approved for Dogs!</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/H_0pdH7OX5E/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/new-cancer-treatment-approved-for-dogs/2009/07/11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:01:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Health & Fitness]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Lifestyle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=973</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There is some huge news in the world of cancer treatment in dogs! Palladia (toceranib phosphate) was approved last month by the US Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of canine cutaneous mast cell tumors.
Mast cell tumors account for one in five cases of malignant cancer in dogs. They appear as small, round lumps [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-974" title="1160103_perscription_drugs_2" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/1160103_perscription_drugs_2-150x150.jpg" alt="1160103_perscription_drugs_2" width="150" height="150" />There is some huge news in the world of cancer treatment in dogs! Palladia (toceranib phosphate) was approved last month by the US Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of canine cutaneous mast cell tumors.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Mast cell tumors account for one in five cases of malignant cancer in dogs. They appear as small, round lumps just under the skin and are often misdiagnosed as benign fatty tumors called lipomas. However, mast cell tumors are life threatening without treatment and/or removal. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Palladia is classed as a tyrosine kinase inhibitor, killing tumor cells and cutting off the blood supply to the tumor. </strong></p>
<p><strong>For anyone who has had a dog that suffers from mast cell tumors, this drug could be a real bonus. The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever that I often ‘borrow’ from friends had a grade one mast cell tumor removed in February and although the surgery was considered ‘curative’, that is only for that one lump. At least once a week, one of us goes over her looking for new lumps that could crop up at any time. This is not a big deal in short haired dogs but NSDTRs have a coat length and density much like their relatives the Golden Retriever leaving you always wondering if you missed a lump – it’s an awful feeling! If a lump is found, her vet Dr. Alan Hettle in Victoria BC (shameless plug, sorry, but he is an AMAZING vet!) must do a fine needle aspirate to take a sample of the cells within the lump as soon as possible. The cells are then sent to the lab for histology where a veterinary pathologist looks at the slide under a microscope to determine whether the cells are another mast cell tumor. If so, she is scheduled for surgery as soon as possible. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Palladia will work great as a stand alone cure or as a part of the surgical treatment. We were lucky with Shanti, Dr H took wide margins and we did get to the lump before it was big meaning the surgery alone was considered the necessary cure. But mast cell tumors often creep up in parts of the body where full removal is not possible such as on the feet or ankles, wrapped around tendons and ligaments. In these cases, often amputation is the only way for the surgery to be considered curative. With Palladia, hopefully what we will find is the surgery can be performed to remove as much of the tumor as possible and then Palladia will kill the rest of the cancerous cells. Who knows, maybe in time the surgery will not be necessary at all!</strong></p>
<p><strong>One final note about mast cell tumors and skin lumps and bumps in general – always have a fine needle aspirate done as soon as the lump is found. In Shanti’s case, the lump was found in September but with the location near her umbilicus, the size of it and the fact it was not growing at the time, we opted to wait until the timing was better to have it removed (we didn’t want her to miss any agility meets while in recovery). None of us considered cancer in a young, healthy, vibrant Toller but when it suddenly began to grow in earnest in February, out it came. Even then, we were shocked at the histology report. </strong></p>
<p><strong>Lesson learned? Always, always, always have a fine needle aspirate done on a lump and remove it as soon as possible. You never know when it might be cancer!</strong></p>
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		<title>Toxic Food and Substances: Baking Soda and Baking Powder (Large Quantities Only)</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/DkBAZrj71HY/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/toxic-food-and-substances-baking-soda-and-baking-powder-large-quantities-only/2009/07/09/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 20:59:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Health & Fitness]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Nutrition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=970</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Have you ever tasted baking soda or baking powder? Eeeewwww! It tastes disgusting! Of course, dogs eat a lot of things that in theory taste gross to us (how do I know for sure? I am not about to eat a squirrel long dead from being run over and now petrified to see why my [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-971" title="432227_scale" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/432227_scale-150x150.jpg" alt="432227_scale" width="150" height="150" />Have you ever tasted baking soda or baking powder? Eeeewwww! It tastes disgusting! Of course, dogs eat a lot of things that in theory taste gross to us (how do I know for sure? I am not about to eat a squirrel long dead from being run over and now petrified to see why my shepherd was so excited about this find while out on a walk. I am doggy but not that doggy!). Would a dog eat baking soda by choice?<br />
</strong></p>
<p><strong>Baking powder and baking soda are leavening agents used in baking. Baking soda has a few interesting properties – it freshens breath, polishes teeth, removes nasty smells from refrigerators, and shines the heck out of stainless steel sinks. It is made out of sodium bicarbonate and generally tastes pretty bad.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Baking powder is a combination of baking soda mixed with an acid such as cream of tartar, calcium acid phosphate or sodium aluminum sulphate. As far as I know, it has no redeeming, cleaning qualities so keep it away from your teeth and your stainless steel sink.</strong></p>
<p><strong>If dogs ingest a large quantity of either of these substances, it can throw off their electrolyte balance causing muscle spasms and congestive heart failure. </strong></p>
<p><strong>If you know your dog has eaten a large quantity of either of these substances, contact your veterinarian immediately. Because of the caustic effect, they may not recommend inducing vomiting. Your vet will know what to do and as always, they are your best resource!</strong></p>
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		<title>My 13 Year Old Dog Is Sundowning, How Can I Tell if its Her Time?</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/GoodDog/~3/Bl4fRl_LiZ4/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/my-13-year-old-dog-is-sundowning-how-do-i-know-if-its-her-time/2009/07/09/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 20:53:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ann Lockley</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Health & Fitness]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Lifestyle]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Nutrition]]></category>

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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/?p=966</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question:
I have a 13 year old springer spaniel and she is &#8220;sundowning&#8221; she still likes to go for walks - short but sweet - but she is giving me &#8216;THE LOOK&#8217; and i don&#8217;t know how to tell if it is HER time.
My vet will come to my home and put her down and then [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-967" title="96070_dipsy_-_01" src="http://blogs.dogster.com/good-dog/files/2009/06/96070_dipsy_-_01-150x150.jpg" alt="96070_dipsy_-_01" width="150" height="150" />Question:</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>I have a 13 year old springer spaniel and she is &#8220;sundowning&#8221; she still likes to go for walks - short but sweet - but she is giving me &#8216;THE LOOK&#8217; and i don&#8217;t know how to tell if it is HER time.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>My vet will come to my home and put her down and then take her body to be privately cremated - and I am cool with that - but i just don&#8217;t know when to say &#8220;when&#8221; - she is not in pain and getting old is no reason for putting her down - should i just pray she goes in her sleep? What to do? Help</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Deb and Chloe</em></strong></p>
<p><!--adsense--></p>
<p><strong>ANSWER:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Hello Debbie,</strong></p>
<p><strong>How are you? I just read your email. My heart goes out to you and your Springer - the next while will be one of the most difficult you will ever face.</strong></p>
<p><strong>If she is still enjoying her walks, still eating and her tail wags when she sees you or when you grab the leash, I would think she is fine until something like one of these parameters changes. In my experience, the look she is giving you is not THE LOOK. You will know it when you see it. It is a look of resignation, acceptance and utter trust. I have yet to have a dog that didn&#8217;t give me that look - from my old dog who lived past what anyone figured to my four year that had to be put down due to a reoccurring and devastating disease and a promise I made she wouldn&#8217;t suffer again. Everyone I have ever counselled about euthanasia says the same thing - one minute the dog is looking at them in their normal way and then something happens and there is this look you are wondering about.</strong></p>
<p><strong>One thing I did with my last old dog was make some promises to her and myself so I would not act in haste or prolong her suffering. Dignity was one parameter - if she could no longer consistently hold her bladder or bowels then I would not put her through the indignity of sponge baths and urine burns. Another parameter was appetite - if she was only eating because I asked her to or because I added a scoop of ice cream to the top of her kibble, then it was time. Another parameter was car rides. It did not matter to me if I had to lift all 90 pounds into the car, if she wanted to still go with me for car rides then she still had a will to live - she loved her car! Walking was the same. Again, she loved to walk and her walks got to be pretty short - a few hundred feet at most. I would let her pick the distance and keep her on a loose line - when she turned to go home, back we went. Pain was not an issue with her but I think it is the easiest parameter to accept - it is not fair to keep an old dog alive that is in chronic and unending pain.</strong></p>
<p><strong>You will probably find that with the warmth of summer, she bounces back for a bit. Enjoy the time and make yourself a list of parameters or promises that are based on your personal values and what you feel is both just and ethical. Write them down as almost a health check list for her. Check in often with both her and yourself about where she is at that day - you may be surprised to see how much life she has left in her.</strong></p>
<p><strong>The night before I put my old dog down, she didn&#8217;t want to go for a walk so I knew the end was near. She woke me about 5am and it did not take me long to figure out her spleen had finally ruptured. She was not in pain or distress so we took our time going to the vet and had a long good bye. The only reason I share this now is because how much I appreciated having that list of parameters or promises or whatever you want to call in place to fall back on. I went to bed knowing the next day might be her last and as sad as that was, it was easier then having any surprises.</strong></p>
<p><strong>I hope this helps. Email me back if you like and let me know how you both are doing. I will post your question and my answer on the Good Dog Blog but because we work a few weeks behind in answering questions, I did not want you to have to wait until then.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Take care and give your girl a piece of steak for me :-)</strong></p>
<p><strong>Ann</strong></p>
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