I did send an email to the CSX Railroad honcho requesting the necessary paperwork giving us approval to paint on the bridge. He has already given us verbal approval, but we have absolutely got to have it in writing. One thing I did find out on the last project was that the railroad brass does like their paperwork. All “t’s” crossed and “I’s” dotted. It’s got to be about liability issues. I’m sure they’re not thrilled about a bunch of artist-types running around their tracks. Probably wouldn’t help their public relations any if one of us got flattened by a locomotive.

I have been drawing different views of the bridge to scale so that I can get something for the kids to draw their sketches and ideas on. Much better than having them draw on a sheet of paper and them trying to visualize what it would look like on the bridge.

Of course, I still have to market, try to get more projects on the boards. I can’t just sit around and wait for things to happen. Have to be proactive. Learned that form Mickie.

More next week. Hope I have more to report.

I think it would be cool to take you on a journey, from the beginning of a project, all the way through to its conclusion. Now, when I say “from the beginning, that’s exactly what I mean. Actually, this particular project has really just begun, insofar as the design portion has just been initiated. But I can recap as to how we got to this point so far.

A couple of years ago I painted some bridge supports for a neighborhood non-profit organization. (Flatrock)

The project turned out pretty cool, if I do say so myself. What it did do was put me in the good graces of CSX railroad, whose tracks the bridge supported. They had never given permission for anyone to paint on their bridges before, so they were most anxious to see how this came out. They liked it, so now I’m their go-to guy when it comes to railroad bridge murals.

Another non-profit saw what I did, and they happened to have a bridge that they themselves wanted painted. (in Bellevue, a suburb of Nashville) So I get a call, and we meet. This is, like, a year ago. They have some funds to work with, but they need more, so they apply to the local Arts Commission for a neighborhood grant. Months later, they are awarded their grant.

But only partially. It is much less than they requested, so they have to go to local organizations and stakeholders to see if they can get matching funds. And they do! But again, only enough to cover the design costs, not enough to actually have the mural painted. So they are off to raise funds again as well as apply for more grants.

That’s where we are now. I was just given a check to begin the design process. I am to work with some middle school students to come up with a design for the bridge. I will probably meet with the students three times to talk about design as well as bring in some local historians to talk about the history of their neighborhood, as we might want that to be the theme of the mural. Afterward I will probably meet with representatives of the community to go over different design proposals before deciding which one will be used for the bridge. Then, if the funds are in place, we get to paint!

I should be hearing from the principal at the school this next week to set up a time for the first of my meetings with the students. It really should be fun. In the meantime, I have gone out to the site and taken pictures and measurements, so I can develop scale drawings on which the students can sketch their ideas. When I get some of their ideas, I will definitely post them for your comments.

And we’re off! This should be a blast!

Mike

Mike

As promised, I will show you projects, both big and small, I have completed for my consumer and business clients. Below, is a project I completed for Adams Investment Strategies. I wanted you to know and see how I actually did this so I took photos and created a timeline so you could track with me every step of the way. Also, I added comments above each photo to give you insight about what I was doing or thinking in that particular step or scene of the creation process.

Let’s get started…

Sketch – After going back and forth with the client, this is what we ended up with. They’re an investment counseling firm, and we thought that this would be quite tongue-in-cheek.

Raw Canvas – Gotta start somewhere. Once I figured out the dimensions, I knew what size canvas to use, so I stretched a piece of heavy-weight muslin on the wall of my studio. Just staple it to the drywall, and you’re ready to go. (Be sure and put plastic on the wall first.)

Primed – After I had it stapled properly, I had to prime it – used a great primer from Porter Paints.  AcriPro 100. Interior or exterior. Simply roll it on. Good stuff.

Scene 1 – I sketch out the basic outline of the project – the “side walls”. I know I’m going to be rolling on some paint, so the easiest thing is to tape off the edges. No need to use a full-width roll. I just use some ½” blue tape. Press it down tight before you paint.

Scene 2 – Mix a couple of colors in a tray and roll it on – at the same time, blending as you go.

Scene 3 – Now it’s time for a little perspective. After you determine your vanishing point, you can start to draw in the depth. Tape the edges on this as well, because you are going to be blending the paint again, and it’s difficult to do that with just a Guide Dog to keep your edges crisp. Of course, you also have to know where your light is coming from.

Scene 4 – Paint the background. Again, pour a couple of colors into a tray, and roll away. Tape it off first, to guarantee a crisp edge.

Scene 5 – Finding the center, I take a large compass and draw my circles. To paint nice, crisp edges, and to make sure that the circle is true, I attach my Buegler Striper to a compass, paint the inside and outside of the circle, and then just fill it in.

Scene 6 – I take a small compass and draw the center circle. Then I cheat: I take a picture of a dartboard and using my MC 2 projector, I project the dartboard image onto the canvas and mark the “pies-shaped” sections.  I use a snap line from the center to make sure the lines are even and straight, then, using ¼” blue tape, tape them off.

Scene 7 – Using my large compass, I draw the inner circle, then paint the pie shapes.

Scene  8 – Now it’s time to paint the board colors. I mix some Mixol tints with some base paint in a small cup, mix it up real good, and voila! We have red and green. 

Scene 9 – Now to paint the wire frame. Using the Buegler Striper, paint the lines for wire frame that you need. For the straight lines, us your Guide Dog, or at the very least, a Mahl Sick.

Scene 10 – Time to add a little shadow. Using a nice stiff brush, paint your shadows. I used a Mahl Stick on this, because I had to paint over colors that weren’t yet dry.

Scene 11 – Using the projector again, I sketch in the darts, using watercolor pencils, so I can erase the lines more easily. I paint in the base coats.

Scene 12 – Using the projector once more, I project the lettering (which I printed from the computer), trace it with the watercolor pencils, and then paint them in. Of course, I make sure it’s level first, and then I tape off the bottom.

Scene 13 – Using the photo as a reference, I paint in the details of the darts, remembering where my light source is.

Scene 14 – I use my compass again, and lightly draw guidelines for my lettering. This time the lettering is done all freehand. Sucks, I know. But sometimes you just gotta cowboy-up. Also, paint in the shadows on the darts. Again, remember the light source. Notice the Post- note. I used a real one for reference for the painted one.

Scene 15 – Finish the note. I actually wrote the note on a real Post-It note to see how it would fit, then used that one as a reference. Hey – ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Scene 16 – Using the vanishing point again, I line up the lower portion, tape it off and paint it in. I also paint in the shadows for the depth, again noting my light source.

Scene 17 – Something was off. Visually the balance didn’t work. Ahh. Throw in a missed dart. Now it looks better.

Installed – Cut it down, paste it up, trim it out. And another one bites the dust. Notice how I allowed for the light switch. BTW, the client was thrilled. That’s what makes a project worthwhile. Oh, and a check.

You know what I am going to tell you now, right?

Yep…Now, Go Paint Something!

Michael Cooper

What’s the going hourly rate for murals? Is it better to price it by the square foot? Is it much different than faux painting? Do I price the project separate from the supplies?

You really shouldn’t be pricing ANY decorative-type painting per square foot. Murals especially.

Now, you could give someone a range based on square footage, but in the end, it simply boils down to how long it’s going to take you to paint it. Figure out how much you want to make per hour/day/week etc., and price it accordingly.  Just give the client a price for the project. Period.

Don’t say something like, “…plus material, plus meals, plus equipment…”, or especially, “I charge by the day.” Just give them a price. That way they’re not nickel-and-dimed to death, and they’re not hanging over you making sure you’re putting in your full “day”.

And trying to figure in material? Realistically take a look at how much you spend on material on a project. I’ll bet you that most of the time you hardly spend anything! Why? Because you use stuff left over from 3 projects ago! You collect supplies! It’s rare that you have to spend a lot on supplies for one particular job. If you have to, say, buy a projector, it’s something that you’ll use for hundreds of projects.

My thoughts: figure out how much you want to make, and charge accordingly. The supplies will take care of themselves.

My rant is done. Now Go Paint Something!

Michael

Hi Mike,

I am looking to do a mural on the side of an enclosed utility trailer. It’s already painted white. Not sure if it’s metal or fiberglass.

I am looking for a recommendation of what kind of paint you sell that would work best, and how to best prepare the surface? We’d like the mural to last, but as a small non-profit, we’re also looking for an affordable option.

Thanks,
Rosemary Jones
“life is a workshop”

Answer:

Rosemary,

Thanks so much for writing. Hmmm…”It’s already painted white.” Do you mean that the metal or fiberglas is inherently white, or that the surface has already actually been painted?

Regardless, here’s what I would do. I would make sure that the surface was clean and solid, then paint the trailer with a good oil-based primer, maybe Xim or Kilz. I would paint the mural with regular oil-based house paint. It would be very cost effective, and should hold quite well. In fact, you could probably go to your local paint store and buy some of their “mistake” paint. Usually something like $5 a gallon.

To get the colors you want, you have a couple of options: buy enough primary and secondary colors to mix what you need, or, preferably, get a set of Mixol colorants. That way, you would only have to mix what you need, and tint it to the color that you need, rather than mix paint together to get the right color. It’s such a waste! And make sure you have some decent brushes. That will make all the difference in the world.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

Now…Go Paint Something!

Michael Cooper

Mike, I am curious how you get such a straight consistent line even using the Mahl stick. Practice and experience probably? Are you using a liner brush? If so which one? Is a Guide Dog the same thing as a Mahl Stick?

Answer:

A Guide Dog is different from a Mahl Stick, as you can easily paint long, continuous straight lines. A Mahl Stick is great for short lines, or for painting over wet areas. The Guide Dog lays flat on the wall, has a handle to hold it and a sharp edge to guide your brush, but the edges are raised so as not to let paint seep underneath, much like an inking triangle.

Also, I use a fairly stiff brush. That way the width of the lines are very consistent. I have some special signature brushes that I really like to use, but I think I’ve already exceeded the limit on product promotions. But trust me - anyone can do it, if you have the right tools.

Thanks and Keep Your Questions Coming!

Now…Go Paint Something!
Michael

My name is Joe and I live in Southern California. I’m helping to restore a small catholic church in this area and and have just finished re-painting the exterior shrine to “Our Lady of Guadalupe”. It’s a large concrete and plaster statue with many coats of paint.

I’ve just used plain old out of the tube Liquitex artist’s acrylics and  was wondering if there is a better clear finish for exterior wear and UV protection than standard Liquitex clear gloss. The statue is in a semi-covered area but does get a few hours of direct sunlight every day and also lot’s of dirt and dust from a busy nearby street. Any info you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Answer:

Joe,

Great question here is what I would do:

Liquitex is a great acrylic. Long lasting, lightfastness, etc. Wouldn’t hurt to have a little help. Use Golden’s MSA Hard Varnish as a topcoat. Great protection - easily cleaned.

Thanks! Now…Go Paint Something!
Michael

This question is in regards to Mixol tints. Is there a more detailed description and how to use this product somewhere on your site or on the internet. Do you buy a base, and then add the tint? If so, how much base to tint, etc. For a cement wall, would the base be just an acrylic exterior white wall paint?

Answer:

First of all, I think a white base works perfectly. Makes the colors really pop. As far as Mixol is concerned, remember, it’s a paste/tint. It’s not paint. You only add as much as you need to get the desired color, usually not more than about 10% of the paint. I usually just work with 2 and 4 ounce cups, sometimes 8 ounce, and just need to add a few drops to get the color I need, sometimes even a big squirt. Mix it up, and you’re good to go. Be sure and throw a lid on your cups, and mark them for the area of which you are painting (sweater – dark, face – base, tree – dark bark, etc.) That way if you need to touch up, you’ve got the exact color!

Mixol tints work with all kinds of paints. If want to just get basic house paint colors in gallons (white, black, red, green, yellow, red, brown, etc) then you can just mix whatever colors you need from those and the tints. If you want to work with artists’ acrylics, get some Golden Acrylics. Great stuff, fabulous colors, wonderful lightfastness qualities, etc. Will last forever.

Thanks for your questions and keep ‘em coming! Now…Go Paint Something!
Michael

Should the design be projected onto pouncing paper adhered to a wall, or projected on paper first and then put on a wall?

Answer:

If I understand your question correctly, you’re asking if you should project onto paper where you want to paint the object, or project somewhere else, like your home or studio, and then bring it to the job site.

I’m thinking that if you can project it off-site, that would be better, because otherwise you have to leave the projector in place while you’re drawing/painting, and it has to stay there until you’re basically finished. If you project off-site, then you can theoretically set-up a number of different elements that you can work on at the same time.

Let’s say you have to paint 6 people on a wall. If you project them one at a time directly on the wall, it will take you forever. If you project them off-site, and then pounce them, you can work on all of them at the same time. Prime one, and while it’s drying, out a base coat on another.

Thanks and keep ‘em coming!
Michael