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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" media="screen" href="/~d/styles/atom10full.xsl"?><?xml-stylesheet type="text/css" media="screen" href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~d/styles/itemcontent.css"?><feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:openSearch="http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearch/1.1/" xmlns:georss="http://www.georss.org/georss" xmlns:gd="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005" xmlns:thr="http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0" gd:etag="W/&quot;Ck4MRn8yeip7ImA9WhRUFEQ.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813</id><updated>2012-01-25T03:29:47.192-08:00</updated><category term="stropirea cartofilor" /><category term="Craita" /><category term="Zmeurul" /><category term="inmultirea mesteacanului" /><category term="bolile cliviei" /><category term="Depozitarea spanacului" /><category term="Artarul" /><category term="bolile mesteacanului" /><category term="Limba Soacrei" /><category term="Vita de vie" /><category term="totul despre narcisa" /><category term="Vanata" /><category term="bolile verzei" /><category term="Plante de interior" /><category term="plantarea cartofilor" /><category term="Plante de apartament" /><category term="Piersicul" /><category term="Ingrijirea zmeurei" /><category term="Capsunele" /><category term="solutie pentru cartofi" /><category term="Floarea Flamingo" /><category term="Gutuiul japonez" /><category term="Broccoli" /><category term="Magnolia" /><category term="cultivarea cartofilor" /><category term="Violeta Africana" /><category term="ingrijirea castravetilor" /><category term="Marcotarea tulpinilor" /><category term="plantarea castraetilor" /><category term="Castravetele" /><category term="bolile cartofilor" /><category term="Ingrijirea murului" /><category term="Bujorul arbust" /><category term="Marcotarea vitei de vie" /><category term="Plantarea murelor" /><category term="Copaci" /><category term="Capsuni" /><category term="Plantarea fasolei" /><category term="Ciresul" /><category term="bolile magnoliei" /><category term="Murele" /><category term="Murul" /><category term="Ierburi ornamentale" /><category term="Spanacul de toamna" /><category term="recoltarea cartofilor" /><category term="ingrijirea magnoliei" /><category term="Fasolea verde" /><category term="Iasomia de gradina" /><category term="Feriga" /><category term="Lalele" /><category term="Spanacul congelat" /><category term="Capsunul" /><category term="Begonia cerata" /><category term="Gradinaritul" /><category term="Caisul" /><category term="Marul decorativ" /><category term="Plantare Brocoli" /><category term="Ceapa" /><category term="Plante cu bulbi" /><category term="Ingrijirea Narcisei" /><category term="Marcotarea" /><category term="Vinetele" /><category term="Plante agatatoare" /><category term="Despre sol" /><category term="Gradinarul" /><category term="Unelte pentru gradinarit" /><category term="Plantarea zmeurei" /><category term="Hortensia" /><category term="Metode de altoire" /><category term="plantarea narcisei" /><category term="cultivarea panselutelor" /><category term="Cartoful" /><category term="Urzica decorativa" /><category term="plantarea panselutei" /><category term="Spanacul de primavara" /><category term="Crinul Peruvian" /><category term="Craciunita" /><category term="Altoirea pomilor fructiferi" /><category term="Menta indiana" /><category term="Plante anuale" /><category term="Altoirea pomilor" /><category term="ingrijirea carciumaresei" /><category term="Trandafirul" /><category term="Cultivarea carciumareseleor" /><category term="Despre gradina" /><category term="Orhideea" /><category term="Gloxinia" /><category term="plantarea magnoliei" /><category term="Floarea Flamingo ingrijire" /><category term="Mesteacanul alb" /><category term="Visinul" /><category term="Oregano" /><category term="plantarea mesteacanului" /><category term="Plantarea verzei" /><category term="SALVIA - Salvia officinalis" /><category term="Conservarea fasolei" /><category term="Gradina de interior" /><category term="Acanta" /><category term="Tehnici de inmultire" /><category term="Inmultirea Magnoliei" /><category term="totul despre craita" /><category term="inmultirea cliviei" /><category term="Spanacul cultivare" /><category term="Laleaua" /><category term="plantarea carciumaresei" /><category term="Legume" /><category term="Unelte si echipamente" /><category term="Tunderea si cultivarea" /><category term="gandacii de colorado" /><category term="Plantarea craitei" /><category term="Fructe - bace - nuci" /><category term="Nectarinul" /><category term="cultivarea craitei" /><category term="inmultirea castravetilor" /><category term="Carciumaresele" /><category term="Narcisa" /><category term="Usturoiul" /><category term="Gladiolele" /><category term="Udatul" /><category term="Lalelele" /><category term="Sapaligi de plivit" /><category term="Brocoli" /><category term="Arbusti" /><category term="Prunul" /><category term="plantarea cliviei" /><category term="Ingrijirea gradinii" /><category term="Metode de inmultire" /><category term="Spanacul" /><category term="Plantarea spanacului" /><category term="Proiectarea gradinii" /><category term="Conopida" /><category term="Marul" /><category term="Begonia" /><category term="Ierburi" /><category term="Plante perene" /><category term="recoltarea verzei" /><category term="ingrijirea panselutelor" /><category term="Ardeiul Gras" /><category term="stropirea mesteacanului" /><category term="Nalba" /><category term="Rozmarinul" /><title>GRADINARUL</title><subtitle type="html">Gradinarul - Totul despre plante si gradinarit.</subtitle><link rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/" /><link rel="next" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default?start-index=26&amp;max-results=25&amp;redirect=false&amp;v=2" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><generator version="7.00" uri="http://www.blogger.com">Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>81</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>25</openSearch:itemsPerPage><atom10:link xmlns:atom10="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/Gradinarul" /><feedburner:info xmlns:feedburner="http://rssnamespace.org/feedburner/ext/1.0" uri="gradinarul" /><atom10:link xmlns:atom10="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="hub" href="http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/" /><feedburner:emailServiceId xmlns:feedburner="http://rssnamespace.org/feedburner/ext/1.0">Gradinarul</feedburner:emailServiceId><feedburner:feedburnerHostname xmlns:feedburner="http://rssnamespace.org/feedburner/ext/1.0">http://feedburner.google.com</feedburner:feedburnerHostname><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUIFQH06eip7ImA9WhRREEo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-3298226367483105069</id><published>2011-11-23T11:00:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-23T11:45:11.312-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-23T11:45:11.312-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Ierburi" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Rozmarinul" /><title>Rozmarinul</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/2tjevtr61MbQNOAgUhe-uIPVIos/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/2tjevtr61MbQNOAgUhe-uIPVIos/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/2tjevtr61MbQNOAgUhe-uIPVIos/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/2tjevtr61MbQNOAgUhe-uIPVIos/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7yDJoQa4l50/Ts1NGgaykbI/AAAAAAAACBE/_nfeXXjb2T8/s1600/rozmarinul.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7yDJoQa4l50/Ts1NGgaykbI/AAAAAAAACBE/_nfeXXjb2T8/s320/rozmarinul.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678279479360917938" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Rozmarinul este o planta perena, aromatica puternic parfumata, frunzele si florile fiind utilizate in prepararea carnii de porc, vita, pasare si peste, dar si la garnituri, paine si deserturi.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Se cultiva afara in spatii care mentin temperaturi de peste 12 grade celsius, in soare direct sau semi-umbra. Planta prefera solurile bine drenate si afanate.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;La inceputul primaverii se seamana in interior, in ghivece, nu prea adanc iar apoi se repica din ghiveci in aer liber, la o distanta de 90 cm. Toamna se pot preleva butasi pentru sezonul urmator. Plantele mai mari pot trece peste iarna in aer liber. plantele din ghiveci pot fi pastrate pe timpul iernii intr-o incapere cu temperatura peste 5 grade Celsius, udandu-le rar.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Rozmarinul poate creste la o inaltime de 60 - 180 cm, frunzele in forma de ac, aromatice. Infloreste primavara si vara, florile sunt mici, de culoare albastru deschis si roz, cilindrice, in manunchiuri axilare.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Pentru prevenirea si tratarea bolilor provocate de daunatori se vor sterge daunatorii care provoaca gale cu bumbac inmuiat in alcool. Recoltarea se face pe tot parcursul anului.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-3298226367483105069?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/3298226367483105069/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/rozmarinul.html#comment-form" title="3 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/3298226367483105069?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/3298226367483105069?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/rozmarinul.html" title="Rozmarinul" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7yDJoQa4l50/Ts1NGgaykbI/AAAAAAAACBE/_nfeXXjb2T8/s72-c/rozmarinul.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>3</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUEEQn4zeyp7ImA9WhRREEo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-8783146522474375554</id><published>2011-11-23T10:40:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-23T11:46:43.083-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-23T11:46:43.083-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Begonia cerata" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plante anuale" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><title>Begonia cerata</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/SQ1AS2cNe1-C0CkmwuIqKDebtfk/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/SQ1AS2cNe1-C0CkmwuIqKDebtfk/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/SQ1AS2cNe1-C0CkmwuIqKDebtfk/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/SQ1AS2cNe1-C0CkmwuIqKDebtfk/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GKBXvgGgN7o/Ts1Mm9C5fLI/AAAAAAAACA4/RMBkU7qXPy0/s1600/begonia_cerata.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GKBXvgGgN7o/Ts1Mm9C5fLI/AAAAAAAACA4/RMBkU7qXPy0/s320/begonia_cerata.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678278937289522354" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Begonia cerata este o planta anuala care nu necesita prea multa ingrijire de-a lungul sezonului.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Dupa primul inghet planta se scoate pur si simplu din pamant sau se taie o treime din ea care apoi se planteaza intr-un ghiveci pentru a va bucura de florile ei si pe sezonul rece.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Planta are tulpina suculenta care poarta frunye rotunjite de culoare verde sau maro-rosiatice. Planta infloreste din luna iunie pana la primul inghet. Florile sunt simple sau batute de culoare alba, rosie sau roz, cu o dimensiune intre 3 - 4 cm. Planta poate avea o inantime si o intindere de 15 -20 cm, prefera umbra slaba si soarele, solul uniform umed imbunatatit cu substante organice.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Pe timpul zilelor caniculare este de preferat ca plantele sa stea dimineata la soare si dupa-amiaza la umbra. Begoniile care au frunzele maronii sunt mai rezistente la caldura.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Primavara se pot cultiva rasaduri cumparate sau obtinute prin productie proprie prin semanarea semintelor in ploaie, fara a le ingropa in pamant cu aproximativ 12 saptamini inainte de ultimul inghet. Rasaduriel astfel obținute se repica la o distanta de 15-20 cm, atunci cand temperatura aerului nu mai scade sub 10 grade Celsius.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-8783146522474375554?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/8783146522474375554/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/begonia-cerata.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/8783146522474375554?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/8783146522474375554?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/begonia-cerata.html" title="Begonia cerata" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GKBXvgGgN7o/Ts1Mm9C5fLI/AAAAAAAACA4/RMBkU7qXPy0/s72-c/begonia_cerata.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUIDSH0-eCp7ImA9WhRREEo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-4468355298625105355</id><published>2011-11-23T10:20:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-23T11:46:19.350-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-23T11:46:19.350-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plante anuale" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Urzica decorativa" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinaritul" /><title>Urzica decorativa</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/IwarNruKzID_4LWK19UlzGA7RiA/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/IwarNruKzID_4LWK19UlzGA7RiA/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/IwarNruKzID_4LWK19UlzGA7RiA/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/IwarNruKzID_4LWK19UlzGA7RiA/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1YIPg5IjiBU/Ts1LpG4Az1I/AAAAAAAACAs/4pNtqm-qbQI/s1600/urzica_decorativa.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1YIPg5IjiBU/Ts1LpG4Az1I/AAAAAAAACAs/4pNtqm-qbQI/s320/urzica_decorativa.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678277874776330066" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Urzica decorativa este o planta ce poate fi cultivata atat in gradina, cat si ca plante decorative de apartament. Daca va hotarati sa cultivati plantele in gradina, pentru a le pastra de la un an la altul, se vor recolta butasi vara, care vor fi pastrati iarna in ghivece.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Urzica decorativa este o planta stufoasa, are tulpini viguroase, cu muchii. Frunzele ei sunt deosebite, cu margini crestate sau incretite. Pe fiecare frunza pot exista mai multe culori, cu zone, margini sau pete in nuante de rosu, roz, portocaliu, crem sau verde. Urzica poate ajunge la o inaltime intre 15 - 60 cm si cu o intindere de 20 - 30 cm. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Urzica preferă semi-umbra, solul umed sau semi-umed, bine drenat, imbunatatit cu substante organice. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Pentru cultivare pot fi utilizate rasaduri cumparate sau pe care le puteti obtine singuri semanand in interior cu aproximativ 8 - 10 saptamani inainte de ultimul inghet. Semintele se presara usor pe pamant fara a fi ingropate adanc, iar ghiveciul se acopera cu un sac de plastic. Rasadurile se sadesc la o distanta de 20 cm, dupa data ultimului inghet. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;In perioadele secetoase se vor lua masuri pentru udarea acestor plante. Pentru stimularea plantei se vor rupe inflorescentele.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Urzica decorativa este o planta decorativa care da culoare brazdelor, straturilor si ghivecelor de-a lungul intregului sezon.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-4468355298625105355?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/4468355298625105355/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/urzica-decorativa.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/4468355298625105355?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/4468355298625105355?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/urzica-decorativa.html" title="Urzica decorativa" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1YIPg5IjiBU/Ts1LpG4Az1I/AAAAAAAACAs/4pNtqm-qbQI/s72-c/urzica_decorativa.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUAAR3k5fyp7ImA9WhRSFEo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-8777945099065789637</id><published>2011-11-16T11:58:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-16T13:09:06.727-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-16T13:09:06.727-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Menta indiana" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plante perene" /><title>MENTA INDIANA</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/OARzF8WKFNl3VlVy67keRj1So8o/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/OARzF8WKFNl3VlVy67keRj1So8o/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/OARzF8WKFNl3VlVy67keRj1So8o/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/OARzF8WKFNl3VlVy67keRj1So8o/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jh7mPrd10yo/TsQmUL5YPJI/AAAAAAAAB3g/C1kKO5xYLck/s1600/menta_indiana.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 250px; height: 189px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jh7mPrd10yo/TsQmUL5YPJI/AAAAAAAAB3g/C1kKO5xYLck/s320/menta_indiana.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675703558626360466" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Menta indiana incanta prin aspectul ei placut, fiind o planta perena ce are florile stralucitoare care sunt situate pe tulpini rezistente care se ramifica din tulpini taratoare rapide. Din frunzele ei ovale si ascutite se produce ceaiul Earl Grey.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Florile mentei indiene sunt de culoare rosie, cilindrice inconjurate de o spirala de frunze modificate colorate in aceeasi tenta de rosu. Planta infloreste vara, ajungand la o inaltime de pana la 120 cm cu o intindere de maxim 90 cm. Prielnic pentru dezvoltarea mentei este solul bogat in humus, uniform umed, favorabile fiind locurile cu soare direct sau semiumbra.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;In momentul in care planta se usuca, frunzisul inferior va cadea. Planta se inmulteste cu rapiditate prin divizare primavara sau toamna. Se pot semana si seminte in interior sau chiar in aer liber in timpul primaverii.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Ca boli ce pot afecta menta indiana amintim fainarea care se manifesta prin aparitia unor pete albe pe frunze si poate afecta intreaga planta. Tratarea se realizeaza prin aerisirea plantei si indepartarea partilor afectate de boala.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Menta indiana poate fi folosita si ca planta decorativa in gradinile mai putin conformiste, fiind preferata pasarilor colibri. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Ca si nuante de culori exista mai multe soiuri ale mentei indiene: blue stocking cu flori violete, cambridge scarlet care are flori rosii stralucitoare, in timp ce croftway pink este de culoare roz deschis.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-8777945099065789637?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/8777945099065789637/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/menta-indiana.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/8777945099065789637?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/8777945099065789637?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/menta-indiana.html" title="MENTA INDIANA" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jh7mPrd10yo/TsQmUL5YPJI/AAAAAAAAB3g/C1kKO5xYLck/s72-c/menta_indiana.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;D0YAQXgyfSp7ImA9WhRTGUg.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-2894043052649820871</id><published>2011-11-10T11:36:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-10T11:59:00.695-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-10T11:59:00.695-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="recoltarea cartofilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Legume" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="stropirea cartofilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="cultivarea cartofilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="gandacii de colorado" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="plantarea cartofilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="bolile cartofilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="solutie pentru cartofi" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Cartoful" /><title>CARTOFUL - cultivare, daunatori, recoltare</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/lUI6A7RvAZSIay-XcPtxHo0XIIo/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/lUI6A7RvAZSIay-XcPtxHo0XIIo/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/lUI6A7RvAZSIay-XcPtxHo0XIIo/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/lUI6A7RvAZSIay-XcPtxHo0XIIo/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0iLY1vCvILw/Trws8tyJ5bI/AAAAAAAABuc/2Cb7T2WGf_4/s1600/cartoful.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0iLY1vCvILw/Trws8tyJ5bI/AAAAAAAABuc/2Cb7T2WGf_4/s320/cartoful.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673459052173714866" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Cartoful se planteaza in zone mai calde, la soare direct, in sol usor, bine drenat, putin acid, bogat in potasiu: pH ideal 5.2-5.7, dar e bun si pH 5.8-6.5. Sunt plantati din tubercul denumite "seminte de cartof". Fiecare bucata are marimea unui ou si contine unul sau mai multi "ochi", sau potentiali muguri. Taiati tuberculii la dimensiune si lasati-i la uscat pentru o zi, pentru a preveni putrezirea in pamant. Plantati cu doua-patru saptamani inainte de ultimul inghet de primavara, la circa 30 cm distanta, intr-un sant de 8-10 cm adancime. Udati regulat. Acoperiti randurile pentru a scapa de gandaci sau pulverizati cu insecticid pentru a scapa de gandacii de Colorado. Expusi la lumina, tuberculii pot capata unele zone verzi care contin solanina, un alcaloid toxic. Acoperiti-i cu pamant sau adaugati un strat protector pentru a prevenii lumina solara. Timpul necesar pentru maturizare este de 55-80 zile. Cartofii au ajuns la maturitate atunci cand se usuca frunzele, sapati cat este nevoie pentru a-i scoate. Pastrati in cutii bine ventilate.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Cartofii rosii sunt deliciosi daca sunt fierti sau copti in coaja. Au un continut moale si albicios. Cartofii albi sunt ideali pentru salate.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-2894043052649820871?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/2894043052649820871/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/cartoful-cultivare-daunatori-recoltare.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/2894043052649820871?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/2894043052649820871?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/cartoful-cultivare-daunatori-recoltare.html" title="CARTOFUL - cultivare, daunatori, recoltare" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0iLY1vCvILw/Trws8tyJ5bI/AAAAAAAABuc/2Cb7T2WGf_4/s72-c/cartoful.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DkEGQ3k7fip7ImA9WhRTGEo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-7051034341125362719</id><published>2011-11-09T13:32:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-09T13:37:02.706-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-09T13:37:02.706-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="bolile cliviei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="plantarea cliviei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="inmultirea cliviei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plante de apartament" /><title>CLIVIA - plantare, daunatori, inmultire</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/n4zfPpNtROuc7068IAuoCI9H4kk/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/n4zfPpNtROuc7068IAuoCI9H4kk/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/n4zfPpNtROuc7068IAuoCI9H4kk/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/n4zfPpNtROuc7068IAuoCI9H4kk/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ty33jY-p3Es/TrryZdN38rI/AAAAAAAABuE/lL13tT_tIow/s1600/clivia.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 275px; height: 183px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ty33jY-p3Es/TrryZdN38rI/AAAAAAAABuE/lL13tT_tIow/s320/clivia.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673113199780033202" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;CLIVIA&lt;/b&gt; Frunzele verzi, liniare, cresc dintr-un bulb. Plantele mature ajung la 60 cm in inaltime si 90 cm intindere. Manunchiurile de flori de iarna sunt de obicei portocaliu-rosii cu interiorul galben. Lumina indirecta medie spre puternica este cea mai indicata. Temperatura medie a camerei primavara si vara; mult mai racoare toamna si iarna. Mentineti solul umed in mod egal primavara si vara; lasati-l sa se usuce putin intre perioadele de udare toamna si iarna. Incepeti cultivarea cliviilor in ghivece mici de lut. Folositi un amestec format din trei parti de pamant de flori universal si o parte nisip, cu o mana sau doua de praf de sange uscat. Cliviile par sa creasca cel mai bine atunci cand sunt inghesuite, asa ca lasati-le in ghiveciul initial circa trei ani inainte de a le muta in alt vas,  la sfarsitul iernii. Hraniti plantele cu ingrasamant lichid de doua ori pe luna, primavara si vara. Gandacii de solanum produc manunchiuri albe, ca de bumbac, pe frunze. Scuturati-le cu un jet puternic de apa. Pentru inmultire divizati cand schimbati ghiveciul sau prin recoltarea lastarilor la sfarsitul iernii.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Manunchiuri de flori spectaculoase, sub forma de trompeta si frunze lucioase fac din aceasta planta de apartament favorita multori gradinari de interior. Cliviile au nevoie de cativa ani pentru a inflori.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-7051034341125362719?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/7051034341125362719/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/clivia-plantare-daunatori-inmultire.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/7051034341125362719?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/7051034341125362719?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/clivia-plantare-daunatori-inmultire.html" title="CLIVIA - plantare, daunatori, inmultire" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ty33jY-p3Es/TrryZdN38rI/AAAAAAAABuE/lL13tT_tIow/s72-c/clivia.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUAMSHg7cSp7ImA9WhRTFkQ.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-8542951979101448970</id><published>2011-11-07T12:08:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-07T12:29:49.609-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-07T12:29:49.609-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="plantarea mesteacanului" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="bolile mesteacanului" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Copaci" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="inmultirea mesteacanului" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="stropirea mesteacanului" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Mesteacanul alb" /><title>MESTEACANUL ALB</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/fP9JF7VoKxTobzOYb_RXJhn2zsQ/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/fP9JF7VoKxTobzOYb_RXJhn2zsQ/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/fP9JF7VoKxTobzOYb_RXJhn2zsQ/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/fP9JF7VoKxTobzOYb_RXJhn2zsQ/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xTyoXOjz648/Trg_b7QJ0nI/AAAAAAAABtg/8UDzeQAudzo/s1600/mesteacan-alb.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 208px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xTyoXOjz648/Trg_b7QJ0nI/AAAAAAAABtg/8UDzeQAudzo/s320/mesteacan-alb.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672353479667602034" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Mesteacanul are florile verzi maronii, in inflorescente, la inceputul si mijlocul primaverii. Ajunge pana la 18 m inaltime si 9 m intindere. Plantati-l primavara. Il tundeti numai la sfarsitul verii sau toamna, deoarece tunderea in alte perioade poate provoca scurgerea excesiva a sevei. Trebuie cultivat in sol adanc, bine drenat si umed. Soare direct si semi-umbra. Tunderea nu este necesara decat pentru a da copacului o forma initiala. Pentru inmultire semanati semintele toamna. Altoiti la sfarsitul iernii si la inceputul primaverii. Stresul provocat de seceta poate slabi copacul, ceea ce il face sa fie mai predispus la daunatori si boli. Plantati in sol umed in mod uniform si udati in timpul perioadelor de seceta excesiva. Poate avea o durata de viata scurta, mai ales in zonele uscate si fierbinti. B Nigra este un copac cu forma piramidala, cu scoarta rosie-maronie, care se exfoliaza. Tolereaza conditiile mlastinoase. B. pendula, are o scoarta alba argintie, marcata cu negru.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Nativ din zona nord-estica a Americii de Nord, este un copac cu frunze cazatoare, inalt, care creste cel mai bine in zonele cu clima rece. Trunchiul matur si crengile sunt albe, cu marcaje distincte negre.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-8542951979101448970?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/8542951979101448970/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/mesteacanul-alb.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/8542951979101448970?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/8542951979101448970?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/mesteacanul-alb.html" title="MESTEACANUL ALB" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xTyoXOjz648/Trg_b7QJ0nI/AAAAAAAABtg/8UDzeQAudzo/s72-c/mesteacan-alb.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;D0AASHwyeip7ImA9WhRTFkQ.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-597080591771779892</id><published>2011-11-07T11:40:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-07T11:55:49.292-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-07T11:55:49.292-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plante anuale" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plantarea craitei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="cultivarea craitei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="totul despre craita" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Craita" /><title>CRAITA - cultivare, intretinere</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/Jc5cr9e-ecqYiPEj8BXNHbVC-MU/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/Jc5cr9e-ecqYiPEj8BXNHbVC-MU/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/Jc5cr9e-ecqYiPEj8BXNHbVC-MU/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/Jc5cr9e-ecqYiPEj8BXNHbVC-MU/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NEIfhC6q4MI/Trg3u4fzuHI/AAAAAAAABtU/HLqd7VOYRsI/s1600/craita.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 314px; height: 209px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NEIfhC6q4MI/Trg3u4fzuHI/AAAAAAAABtU/HLqd7VOYRsI/s320/craita.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672345009252448370" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Aceaste plante semi-viguroase sunt foarte cunoscute si cultivate pentru florile lor de vara cu un diametru de 5-10 cm si pentru grupurile stufoase de frunze verzi, dantelate. Craitele africane sau americane (T. erecta) tind sa creasca foarte mult, pana la 45-90 cm inaltime, si sa aiba flori mari, de obicei batute, galbene si portocalii. Craitele frantuzesti (T. patula) tind sa fie mult mai zimtate, cu foarte multe flori mai mici, galbene, portocalii sau rosii, si au 30 cm inaltime. Ajung la 15-90 cm inaltime si 15-45 cm intindere. Se planteaza direct in soare, in sol semi-ferti si bine drenat. In zonele cu veri fierbinti, umbra usoara de dupa-amiaza poate ajuta plantele sa isi prelungeasca perioada de inflorire, mai ales soiurile cu flori crem. Pentru ca planta sa infloreasca timpuriu (mai ales in cazul soiurilor care cresc inalte), semanati in interior cu 4-6 saptamani inainte de data ultimului inghet. Plantati semintele la 3-6 mm adancime. Plantati afara rasadurile dupa data ultimului inghet. De asemenea, mai puteti insamanta direct in gradina soiuri mici, care infloresc devreme, dupa data ultimului inghet. Craita este o planta de umplutura sau bordura pentru brazde si straturi de flori.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Craitele pot inveseli prin culoare orice loc insorit. Combinati-le cu alte plante anuale sau perene, sau cultivati-le doar pe ele, in masa. Este posibil ca soiurile cu tulpini lungi sa aiba nevoie de tutori.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-597080591771779892?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/597080591771779892/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/craita-cultivare-intretinere.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/597080591771779892?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/597080591771779892?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/craita-cultivare-intretinere.html" title="CRAITA - cultivare, intretinere" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NEIfhC6q4MI/Trg3u4fzuHI/AAAAAAAABtU/HLqd7VOYRsI/s72-c/craita.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;Dk8FSXg9eyp7ImA9WhRTFko.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-6501107707353939777</id><published>2011-11-07T05:54:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-07T06:06:58.663-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-07T06:06:58.663-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Iasomia de gradina" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Arbusti" /><title>IASOMIA DE GRADINA - cultivare, inmultire, daunatori, soiuri</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/vh_N6opP-iOwa4c_xy9xL9b4DnI/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/vh_N6opP-iOwa4c_xy9xL9b4DnI/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/vh_N6opP-iOwa4c_xy9xL9b4DnI/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/vh_N6opP-iOwa4c_xy9xL9b4DnI/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Su2F4eXQV8w/Trfl-GVoIfI/AAAAAAAABtI/PR6d7V3Ajgk/s1600/iasomia-de-gradina.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 259px; height: 194px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Su2F4eXQV8w/Trfl-GVoIfI/AAAAAAAABtI/PR6d7V3Ajgk/s320/iasomia-de-gradina.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672255110712402418" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Sunt flori albe, simple si uneori batute, de obicei foarte parfumate, apar vara tarziu. Ajung pana la 2,4 m inaltime, dar nu la fel de mult in intindere. Rezistent la diferite conditii de sol, chiar si sol uscat. Se planteaza in soare direct si semi-umbra. Cultivati primavara. Tundeti plantele mai inalte imediat dupa inflorire. Taiati o treime, iar ramurile mai vechi eliminati-le de tot. Pentru inmultire, recoltati butasi vara. Indepartati unele tulpini inradacinate toamna sau primavara. Planta nu este predispusa la boli sau daunatori. Nu prezinta interes daca nu este inflorita. Este foarte estetica in straturi de arbusti.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Soiuri: "Belle etoile" are flori simple cu diametru de peste 5 cm. "Boule d'Argent" are flori batute care au diametrul de 5 cm. "Minnesota Snowflakes" are flori batute cu diametrul de 5 cm; este foarte viguros si rezistent iarna. "Virginal" are flori batute cu diametrul de 5 cm.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Originara din sudul Europei, iasomia de gradina este un arbust cu frunze cazatoare, opuse. Florile albe, simple sau batute, sunt, de obicei, foarte parfumate.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-6501107707353939777?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/6501107707353939777/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/iasomia-de-gradina-cultivare-inmultire.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/6501107707353939777?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/6501107707353939777?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/iasomia-de-gradina-cultivare-inmultire.html" title="IASOMIA DE GRADINA - cultivare, inmultire, daunatori, soiuri" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Su2F4eXQV8w/Trfl-GVoIfI/AAAAAAAABtI/PR6d7V3Ajgk/s72-c/iasomia-de-gradina.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CU8CSX0-cSp7ImA9WhRTFko.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-5364073234834204420</id><published>2011-11-07T05:31:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2011-11-07T05:51:08.359-08:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-07T05:51:08.359-08:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plantare Brocoli" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Legume" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Brocoli" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Broccoli" /><title>BROCCOLI - plantare, daunatori, recoltare,</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/gQqjzceTv7kbuQv7K6NBuPbdNfI/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/gQqjzceTv7kbuQv7K6NBuPbdNfI/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/gQqjzceTv7kbuQv7K6NBuPbdNfI/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/gQqjzceTv7kbuQv7K6NBuPbdNfI/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UJsRnlKHg_Y/Trfhw_J9zHI/AAAAAAAABs8/B_43WfrFSmg/s1600/broccoli.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 274px; height: 184px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UJsRnlKHg_Y/Trfhw_J9zHI/AAAAAAAABs8/B_43WfrFSmg/s320/broccoli.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672250487399631986" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;In zonele temperate este cultivat ca leguma de iarna. In zonele cu primaveri reci, creste ca o cultura de primavara-toamna, in rest creste foarte bine toamna. Soare direct, in sol bine drenat, cu mult calciu. Plantati rasadurile in interior, cu doua luni de ultimul inghet al primaverii. Puneti in gradina transplanturi mai puternice cu o luna inainte de ultimul inghet. Insamantati de toamna cu 90 de zile inainte de primul inghet de toamna sau transplantati cu 60 de zile inaintea inghetului. Cultivati sau aplicati un strat protector si mentineti solul umed in mod uniform. Folia de protectie pentru randuri va alunga viermii de varza si larvele. In unele zone, broccoli de primavara face seminte prematur, din cauza vremii prea calde. Folositi soiuri care se maturizeaza rapid si fiti pregatiti ca brocoli crescut in primavara sa aiba capetele mai mici decat cel de toamna. Timpul necesar pentru maturizare este de 70-95 zile. Recoltati capetele de brocoli cand au ajuns la marimea maxima, dar inainte ca mugurii sa devina galbeni.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Practic o necunoscuta acum 50 de ani, brocoli este acum o favorita a vremii reci. Poate fi mancata cruda si gatita.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-5364073234834204420?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/5364073234834204420/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/broccoli-plantare-daunatori-recoltare.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/5364073234834204420?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/5364073234834204420?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/broccoli-plantare-daunatori-recoltare.html" title="BROCCOLI - plantare, daunatori, recoltare," /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UJsRnlKHg_Y/Trfhw_J9zHI/AAAAAAAABs8/B_43WfrFSmg/s72-c/broccoli.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUcBR34_eSp7ImA9WhRTFU4.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-2427358724733919620</id><published>2011-11-05T15:29:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T15:44:16.041-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T15:44:16.041-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plante anuale" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="cultivarea panselutelor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="ingrijirea panselutelor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="plantarea panselutei" /><title>PANSELUTA - cultivare, intretinere</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/ayQ2lD3zyku0a-sXwUxTOe46r50/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/ayQ2lD3zyku0a-sXwUxTOe46r50/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/ayQ2lD3zyku0a-sXwUxTOe46r50/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/ayQ2lD3zyku0a-sXwUxTOe46r50/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DqdOO08K-8U/TrW8LhZpecI/AAAAAAAABro/sazOp72xc18/s1600/panseluta.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DqdOO08K-8U/TrW8LhZpecI/AAAAAAAABro/sazOp72xc18/s320/panseluta.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671646211873536450" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Aceste plante perene cu viata scurta sunt cultivate de obicei ca plate anuale sau bienale viguroase. Au frunze verzi, ovale sau inguste, cu zimti rotunjiti. Florile plate, cu cinci petale, apar chiar deasupra grupurilor de frunze, in general primavara, dar pot inflori si toamna. Au un diametru de 5-12,5 cm si o gama variata de culori, de la alb la roz, rosu, portocaliu, galben, purpuriu, albastru si aproape negru. Au 15-20 cm inaltime si 20-30 cm intindere. Se planteaza in soare direct si semi-umbra; sol umed, bine drenat. Pentru a inflori in acelasi an, cumparati plantele primavara sau obtineti rasaduri, semanand in interior cu opt-zece saptamani inainte de data ultimului inghet Puneti semintele la 3 mm adancime. Puneti ghiveciul in frigider pentru 12 saptamani, apoi mutati-l intr-un loc luminos. Plantati rasadurile afara la 12 saptamani dupa data ultimului inghet. Pentru a cultiva panselutele cu plante bienale, cu scopul de a obtine mai devreme flori, semanati afara intr-o rasadnita, la sfarsitul primaverii; la mijlocul toamnei transplantati florile in gradina.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Pentru ca sa cresca frumos, aplicati un strat protector in jurul lor si udati-le in perioadele secetoase. Indepartarea florilor ofilite poate duce la prelungirea perioadei de inflorir; lasati cateva pentru a se inmultii singure, din seminte.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-2427358724733919620?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/2427358724733919620/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/panseluta-cultivare-intretinere.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/2427358724733919620?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/2427358724733919620?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/panseluta-cultivare-intretinere.html" title="PANSELUTA - cultivare, intretinere" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DqdOO08K-8U/TrW8LhZpecI/AAAAAAAABro/sazOp72xc18/s72-c/panseluta.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CEcCRnw-fyp7ImA9WhRTFU4.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-6852473690819866552</id><published>2011-11-05T14:57:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T15:27:47.257-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T15:27:47.257-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plante anuale" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Cultivarea carciumareseleor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="ingrijirea carciumaresei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="plantarea carciumaresei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Carciumaresele" /><title>CARCIUMAREASA - cultivare, intretinere</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/P-foTjni3XkV_II7yvyrlLojelU/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/P-foTjni3XkV_II7yvyrlLojelU/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/P-foTjni3XkV_II7yvyrlLojelU/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/P-foTjni3XkV_II7yvyrlLojelU/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFEDMLlGwEs/TrW4VpWn63I/AAAAAAAABrc/lVXpqU0Y7hU/s1600/Carciumareasa_roz.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 314px; height: 235px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFEDMLlGwEs/TrW4VpWn63I/AAAAAAAABrc/lVXpqU0Y7hU/s320/Carciumareasa_roz.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671641987760515954" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Carciumareasa face tulpini solide, rezistente si perechi de frunze verzi, de forma ovala sau cu varf ascutit. De la mijlocul verii pana la primul inghet, in varful tulpinilor apar flori in aproape toate culorile curcubeului (cu  exceptia albastrului pur).  Florile de carciumarrese pot avea o multime de forme si un diametru de 2,5 pana la 25 cm. Petalele florilor, simple sau batute, pot fi incretite, zburlite sau plate. In functie de soi, plantele pot avea 15-90 cm inaltime si, in general 30-60 cm intindere. Se planteaza direct in soare in sol semi-fertil, bine drenat, imbunatatit cu substante organice. Cumparati primavara rasaduri, sau semanati in interior cu trei saptamani inainte de data ultimului inghet. Puneti semintele la 6-12 mm adancime in ghivece de turba (2-3 seminte in fiecare ghiveci) Rariti semintele sa ramana una in fiecare ghiveci. Plantati rasadurile afara dupa ce a trecut ultimul inghet. Carciumaresele cresc foarte repede si din semintele semanate direct in gradina, la o saptamana sau doua dupa perioada ultimului inghet, cand solul este cald.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Inlocuieste excelent plantele anuale care infloresc devreme si se umple spatiile libere lasate de florile cu bulbi si perene care infloresc primavara si care au intrat in hibernare. Arata minunat in aranjamentele florale.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-6852473690819866552?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/6852473690819866552/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/carciumareasa-cultivare-intretinere.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/6852473690819866552?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/6852473690819866552?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/carciumareasa-cultivare-intretinere.html" title="CARCIUMAREASA - cultivare, intretinere" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFEDMLlGwEs/TrW4VpWn63I/AAAAAAAABrc/lVXpqU0Y7hU/s72-c/Carciumareasa_roz.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CkYHQXw6cCp7ImA9WhRTFU4.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-5318904801256289854</id><published>2011-11-05T14:33:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T14:55:30.218-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T14:55:30.218-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Ingrijirea Narcisei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Narcisa" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plante cu bulbi" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="plantarea narcisei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="totul despre narcisa" /><title>NARCISA</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/L6yoqYxXzCWtPO7uOInGRLohw20/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/L6yoqYxXzCWtPO7uOInGRLohw20/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/L6yoqYxXzCWtPO7uOInGRLohw20/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/L6yoqYxXzCWtPO7uOInGRLohw20/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rs9QO9ljzuM/TrWwwFOIv8I/AAAAAAAABrA/yZwDR604o80/s1600/narcise.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 210px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rs9QO9ljzuM/TrWwwFOIv8I/AAAAAAAABrA/yZwDR604o80/s320/narcise.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671633645824688066" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Rasar din bulbi mari si ascutiti. Grupuri de frunze verzi, in forma de banda, plate, rasar la inceputul verii, impreuna cu tulpini de flori fara frunze. Florile apar la inceputul, mijlocul sau la sfarsitul primaverii. Fiecare floare are o coroana si un inel exterior de petale si numit periant. Inflorescentele simple sau duble sunt in mod obisnuit albe sau galbene, dar pot avea si pete roz, verzi sau portocalii. Inaltimea florilor si a frunzisului este de 15-50 cm si se intind 10-20 cm. Cel mai bun loc de plantare este in soare direct si semi-umbra; sol moderat, bine drenat, la care la care au fost adaugate substante organice. Plantati bulbii la inceputul si mijlocul toamnei. Puneti-i in gropi individuale sau zone mai mari, sapate la 10-20 cm adancime. Lasati frunzele sa se ingalbeneasca inainte de a le tunde sau de a le indeparta. Grupati narcisele cu alte plante care infloresc devreme, cum sunt panselutele, brandusele, viorelele, muscari si anemonele.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;E greu de imaginat o gradina fara cel putin cateva narcise, pentru culoare de primavara. Cultivati-le in straturi, plantati-le sub copaci sau naturalizati-le in zone cu intretinere minimala.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-5318904801256289854?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/5318904801256289854/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/narcisa.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/5318904801256289854?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/5318904801256289854?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/narcisa.html" title="NARCISA" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rs9QO9ljzuM/TrWwwFOIv8I/AAAAAAAABrA/yZwDR604o80/s72-c/narcise.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DkYBRnozfyp7ImA9WhRTFU8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-1227788844229968045</id><published>2011-11-05T12:51:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T13:15:57.487-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T13:15:57.487-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Copaci" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="plantarea magnoliei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="bolile magnoliei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Magnolia" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="ingrijirea magnoliei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Inmultirea Magnoliei" /><title>MAGNOLIA - cultivare, ingrijire, inmultire, daunatori</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/o24mMq6jh8_-i6luK2IDxvc0-gM/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/o24mMq6jh8_-i6luK2IDxvc0-gM/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/o24mMq6jh8_-i6luK2IDxvc0-gM/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/o24mMq6jh8_-i6luK2IDxvc0-gM/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify; "&gt;&lt;b&gt;Magnolia grandiflora:&lt;/b&gt; flori parfumate, cu aspect de ceara, alb crem, de la sfarsitul primaverii pana la mijlocul verii. &lt;b&gt;Magnolia lobus:&lt;/b&gt; flori albe, cu sase petale la mijlocul verii. &lt;b&gt;Magnolia x soulangiana:&lt;/b&gt; flori purpurii trandafirii sau albe, primavara devreme. &lt;b&gt;Magnolia stellata:&lt;/b&gt; flori albe cu petale in forma de banda, primavara devreme. &lt;b&gt;Magnolia virginiana:&lt;/b&gt; flori inmiresmate, alb-crem, de la sfarsitul primaverii la inceputul toamnei.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F2qr-d1VTeU/TrWZXh-IGUI/AAAAAAAABq0/LT_7auheqfw/s1600/magnolia-alba.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F2qr-d1VTeU/TrWZXh-IGUI/AAAAAAAABq0/LT_7auheqfw/s400/magnolia-alba.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671607935277996354" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify; "&gt;Inaltimea magnoliei variaza de la 4,5 m la 27 m si se intinde de la 4,5 m la 16,5 m. Creste in sol umed, bine drenat, bogat in humus. Semi-umbra. Pentru cultivare transplantati primavara plante crescute in container sau cu balot. Tunderea nu este necesara. Pentru inmultire marcotati primavara. Scoateti semintele din invelis si semanati toamna. Prelevati butasi la mijlocul si spre sfarsitul verii. Altoiti iarna. Daca paduchii verzi (Coccidae) ataca, provocand ingalbenirea frunzelor, tundeti cresterile infestate grav si pulverizati tulpinile ramase cu ulei de horticultura. Ingheturile tarzii pot distruge plantele care infloresc de timpuriu.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qp6Ar5cFwbU/TrWZLWYdfOI/AAAAAAAABqo/GKrwnq10sOs/s1600/magnolia.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qp6Ar5cFwbU/TrWZLWYdfOI/AAAAAAAABqo/GKrwnq10sOs/s400/magnolia.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671607726008794338" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="text-align: justify; "&gt;Magnolia este un copac sau arbust cu frunze simple, cazatoare sau vesnic verzi. Magnolia Stellata este un arbust stufos sau un copac mic cu flori de primavara albe, in forma de stea.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-1227788844229968045?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/1227788844229968045/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/magnolia-cultivare-ingrijire-inmultire.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/1227788844229968045?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/1227788844229968045?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/magnolia-cultivare-ingrijire-inmultire.html" title="MAGNOLIA - cultivare, ingrijire, inmultire, daunatori" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F2qr-d1VTeU/TrWZXh-IGUI/AAAAAAAABq0/LT_7auheqfw/s72-c/magnolia-alba.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;C08CQnwycSp7ImA9WhRTFU8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-2018002392261809562</id><published>2011-11-05T12:12:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T12:37:43.299-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T12:37:43.299-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinaritul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Marul decorativ" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fructe - bace - nuci" /><title>Marul decorativ</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/NDyLOJ7GB9zm7TlQqgNl8bVGpCY/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/NDyLOJ7GB9zm7TlQqgNl8bVGpCY/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/NDyLOJ7GB9zm7TlQqgNl8bVGpCY/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/NDyLOJ7GB9zm7TlQqgNl8bVGpCY/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--LM517iLcD4/TrWQYeIzHwI/AAAAAAAABqc/MO1_OV8n0WA/s1600/marul-decorativ.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 224px; height: 225px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--LM517iLcD4/TrWQYeIzHwI/AAAAAAAABqc/MO1_OV8n0WA/s320/marul-decorativ.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671598055824236290" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Marul decorativ se planteaza in soare direct si in sol bine drenat. Ajunge la 2,4-7,5 m inaltime si intindere similara. Transplantati exemplarele crescute in ghiveci oricand pamantul nu este inghetat sau saditi pomii cu radacini nude primavara sau toamna, cand sunt in hibernare. Saditi pomii la 2,4-7,5 m distanta. Au nevoie de polenizare incrucisata, insa copacul polenizator poate fi un mar sau un mar decorativ. Cultivati pomii tineri pe suport rezistent. Plantele ajunse la maturitate nu trebuie tunse mult, in afara de indepartarea lastarilor de apa si rarirea crengilor inghesuite. Altoiti cu altoi sau cu muguri de meri decorativi pe portaltoi tineri de meri obisnuiti sau decorativi. Semintele pentru portaltoi lastari germineaza foarte usor daca sunt tinute la umezeala si temperaturi scazute timp de doua sau trei luni. Pot avea aceiasi daunatori si boli ca merii obisnuiti, dar, de obicei, sunt mai rezistenti. Culegeti fructele cand s-au colorat complet si se desprind usor de pe creanga. Pastrati-le in frigider intr-o punga de plastic cu gauri in ea.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Unele mere decorative au gust delicios, in timp ce altele sunt bune numai daca sunt facute peltea. Puteti consuma tot fructul.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: right;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;Marul decorativ - Malus spp.&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-2018002392261809562?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/2018002392261809562/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/marul-decorativ.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/2018002392261809562?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/2018002392261809562?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/marul-decorativ.html" title="Marul decorativ" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--LM517iLcD4/TrWQYeIzHwI/AAAAAAAABqc/MO1_OV8n0WA/s72-c/marul-decorativ.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEIEQ389fCp7ImA9WhRTFEQ.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-4225222015284417091</id><published>2011-11-05T05:16:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T05:35:02.164-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T05:35:02.164-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="plantarea castraetilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Castravetele" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="inmultirea castravetilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="ingrijirea castravetilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Legume" /><title>Castravetele - cultivare, daunatori, recoltare, depozitare</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/sQLT5_hLoErSDrjjCGUqJfiNPNQ/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/sQLT5_hLoErSDrjjCGUqJfiNPNQ/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/sQLT5_hLoErSDrjjCGUqJfiNPNQ/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/sQLT5_hLoErSDrjjCGUqJfiNPNQ/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DVZS5N5yEbc/TrUtDGHu3HI/AAAAAAAABqQ/VN3p77QO-tA/s1600/castravetele.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 295px; height: 298px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DVZS5N5yEbc/TrUtDGHu3HI/AAAAAAAABqQ/VN3p77QO-tA/s320/castravetele.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671488836948909170" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Castravetii se pot planta in soare direct in locatie cu circulatie buna a aerului. Sol usor, imbunatatit cu ingrasamant sau tratat cu compost. Nu agreeaza solul rece, asteptati 3-4 saptamani dupa ultimul inghet pentru insamantare directa sau transplantarea lor in gradina. Aplicati un strat protector sau continuati sa ingrijiti plantele pana incep sa se agate. Castravetii necesita hrana si multa apa, irigati pe seceta si aplicati ingrasamant o data pe luna. Plantati succesiv o data la 6 saptamani, acolo unde sezonul permite. Cultivati pe spaliere sau pe garduri, pentru a economisii spatiul gradinii. Folositi folii de protectie pentru randuri pentru a proteja plantele tinere de daunatori, dar indepartati-le atunci cand plantele infloresc. Utilizarea spalierelor imbunatatesete circulatia aerului si reduce mucegaiul. Prabusirea brusca a plantelor de castravete indica vestejirea, care e cauzata de daunatori. Protejarea cu un strat de paie poate ajuta impotriva acestor daunatori.  Timpul necesar pentru maturizare este de 48-70 zile fara ger. Culegeti des, mai ales in perioade toride. Murati surplusul.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Apreciati in salate, castravetii sunt plante iubitoare de caldura care pot fi crescute pe spaliere sau garduri.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: right;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;CASTRAVETELE - Cucumis sativus&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-4225222015284417091?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/4225222015284417091/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/castravetele-plantare-daunatori.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/4225222015284417091?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/4225222015284417091?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/castravetele-plantare-daunatori.html" title="Castravetele - cultivare, daunatori, recoltare, depozitare" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DVZS5N5yEbc/TrUtDGHu3HI/AAAAAAAABqQ/VN3p77QO-tA/s72-c/castravetele.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEIFR3k_fSp7ImA9WhRTFEQ.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-4593233400232869061</id><published>2011-11-05T05:00:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T05:35:16.745-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T05:35:16.745-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="recoltarea verzei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plantarea verzei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Legume" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="bolile verzei" /><title>Varza - cultivare, daunatori, recoltare, depozitare</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/N7EtLO7tjb4XP_315c-ik2A5uJk/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/N7EtLO7tjb4XP_315c-ik2A5uJk/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/N7EtLO7tjb4XP_315c-ik2A5uJk/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/N7EtLO7tjb4XP_315c-ik2A5uJk/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JPk7btRLOQc/TrUol1qphSI/AAAAAAAABqE/JyWzG7lYkZI/s1600/varza.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 241px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JPk7btRLOQc/TrUol1qphSI/AAAAAAAABqE/JyWzG7lYkZI/s320/varza.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671483936269239586" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Varza se planteaza in zone mai calde , cu strat protector de racire a solului in zonele mai calde. Folosita ca leguma de irna in climatele temperate. Soare direct. In orice fel de sol bine drenat si fertil. Cultivati drept cultura de primavara-toamna in majoritatea zonelor sau drept cultura de iarna unde temperaturile ajung rar sub limita inghetului. Evitati plantele care se maturizeaza pe vreme inchisa si uscat. Incepeti culturile de primavara in interior la loc racoros, cu 6-8 saptamani inainte de ultimul inghet de primavara  si transplantati afara cu 4 saptamani inainte de ultimul inghet. Tineti rasadurile la lumina. Varza prefera sol bogat; adaugati compost sau ingrasamant inaintea plantarii si aplicati emulsie de peste sau zeama de compost cu o luna dupa plantare. Cobateti fluturii de varza si coropisnitele cu folii protectoare pentru randuri. Despartiti radacina intr-o parte cu o lopata, cand capatana este complet formata. Va incetini maturizarea si va prevenii varza sa se crape. Timpul necesar pentru maturizare este de 60-110 zile. Recoltati soiurile timpurii dupa necesitati; recoltati varza pentru depozitare inainte de aparitia unui inghet.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Apreciata de mii de anipentru rezistenta la climat si depozitare, varza poate fi crescuta aproape oriunde.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: right;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;VARZA - Brassica oleracea, grupa Capitata&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-4593233400232869061?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/4593233400232869061/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/varza-plantare-daunatori-recoltare.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/4593233400232869061?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/4593233400232869061?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/varza-plantare-daunatori-recoltare.html" title="Varza - cultivare, daunatori, recoltare, depozitare" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JPk7btRLOQc/TrUol1qphSI/AAAAAAAABqE/JyWzG7lYkZI/s72-c/varza.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CEcFR38_fip7ImA9WhRTFEQ.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-1735029046161570104</id><published>2011-11-05T04:08:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T04:20:16.146-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T04:20:16.146-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Murul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Ingrijirea murului" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plantarea murelor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Murele" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fructe - bace - nuci" /><title>Murul - Rubus spp.</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/oOSLX5uc86Nn5ZvRuDDEQ9puuIQ/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/oOSLX5uc86Nn5ZvRuDDEQ9puuIQ/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/oOSLX5uc86Nn5ZvRuDDEQ9puuIQ/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/oOSLX5uc86Nn5ZvRuDDEQ9puuIQ/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pKzhFjlN5bU/TrUb5oSi48I/AAAAAAAABp4/dpKtUj3uR9w/s1600/murul.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 302px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pKzhFjlN5bU/TrUb5oSi48I/AAAAAAAABp4/dpKtUj3uR9w/s320/murul.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671469982624703426" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Murul se planteaza in soare direct, in sol semi-fertil si bogat. Ajunge la 1,2-2,1 m inaltime si la 0,9-1,8 m intindere. Cumparati plante cu radacini nude sau rasaduri in saculeti de panza. Au nevoie de foarte mult spatiu si de o circulatie buna a aerului. Plantati soiuri cu tepi la 90-120 cm distanta, iar soiurile fara tepi la 1,2-1,8 m distanta. Lasati poteci intre randuri ca soarele sa patrunda bine la plante. Mentineti solul umed uniform si aplicati un strat de compost la inceputul primaverii. Tundeti pana la pamant crengile care au facut fructe, imediat dupa recoltare. La inceputul primaverii rariti ca sa ramana sapte crengi viguroase de fiecare planta. Scurtati crengile laterale cu circa 30 cm. Pentru cea mai bogata recolta, cultivati rugii pe spaliere. Inmultirea o faceti prin divizare sau marcotare. Plantele care cresc anormal, crengile neproductive sau frunzele patae cu portocaliu care cad prea devreme sunt simptomele unor boli incurabile, provocate de un virus sau de ciuperci. Indepartati plantele afectate. Consumati murele coapte imediat sau congelati-le.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Murele au gustul cel mai bun cand fructele devin negre si isi pierd din stralucire. Multe soiuri de mure fara tepi au nevoie de sprijin pentru a creste.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-1735029046161570104?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/1735029046161570104/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/murul-rubus-spp.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/1735029046161570104?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/1735029046161570104?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/murul-rubus-spp.html" title="Murul - Rubus spp." /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pKzhFjlN5bU/TrUb5oSi48I/AAAAAAAABp4/dpKtUj3uR9w/s72-c/murul.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;C0UARnY7eip7ImA9WhRTFEQ.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-2759727392870725717</id><published>2011-11-05T03:49:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-11-05T04:07:27.802-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-11-05T04:07:27.802-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Zmeurul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Ingrijirea zmeurei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plantarea zmeurei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fructe - bace - nuci" /><title>Zmeurul - Rubus idaeus</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/Ppj1SutcAuBGqWIf1XQzXEgB7RE/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/Ppj1SutcAuBGqWIf1XQzXEgB7RE/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/Ppj1SutcAuBGqWIf1XQzXEgB7RE/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/Ppj1SutcAuBGqWIf1XQzXEgB7RE/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K0MLg6MvjVs/TrUY4lrqKCI/AAAAAAAABps/gl1IZiWQkeA/s1600/zmeurul.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K0MLg6MvjVs/TrUY4lrqKCI/AAAAAAAABps/gl1IZiWQkeA/s320/zmeurul.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671466666209978402" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Zmeurul se planteaza in soare direct, in sol semi-fertil si sarac. Ajunge la 1,2-1,8 m inaltime si 0,6-1,2 m intindere. Cumparati plante cu radacini nude si saditi in rand, la 60 cm distanta. Se vor maturiza intr-un an sau doi. La nevoie, aplicati la sfarsitul iernii un strat de compost si putin si putin ingrasamant organic echilibrat pentru o crestere mai viguroasa. Aplicati un strat protector impotriva buruienilor si mentineti pamantul umed uniform, udand cand este seceta. Tundeti toate crengile batrane pana la pamant, dupa ce perioada de recoltare s-a incheiat. Lasati doar lastarii din anul curent, pentru a produce fructe anul urmator. Inmultiti prin divizare sau marcotare, daca plantele sunt sanatoase. Cumparati numai plante cu certificate de sanatate. Exista boli provocate de ciuperci care ataca zmeura printre care fainarea antracnoza. Daca ati avut si cu un an in urma probleme, pulverizati cu solutie din var de gradina si sulf, cand mugurii devin verzi. Distrugeti toate plantele care sunt afectate de orice boala. Culegeti zmeura atunci cand este coapta si dulce.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Daca pasarile va mananca zmeura, acoperiti plantele cu o plasa pe care o veti strange atunci cand doriti sa culegeti fructele.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-2759727392870725717?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/2759727392870725717/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/zmeurul-rubus-idaeus.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/2759727392870725717?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/2759727392870725717?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/11/zmeurul-rubus-idaeus.html" title="Zmeurul - Rubus idaeus" /><author><name>Admin</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/14309342370065121867</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K0MLg6MvjVs/TrUY4lrqKCI/AAAAAAAABps/gl1IZiWQkeA/s72-c/zmeurul.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DkcCR3s-cCp7ImA9WhdaEEk.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-7725021475846716676</id><published>2011-10-19T09:38:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-10-19T10:07:46.558-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-10-19T10:07:46.558-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Marcotarea" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Marcotarea tulpinilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Tehnici de inmultire" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Metode de inmultire" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Marcotarea vitei de vie" /><title>MARCOTAREA</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/fhDJN6ETZRICC3xPvZak81BnDUY/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/fhDJN6ETZRICC3xPvZak81BnDUY/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/fhDJN6ETZRICC3xPvZak81BnDUY/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/fhDJN6ETZRICC3xPvZak81BnDUY/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify; "&gt;&lt;b&gt;MARCOTAREA&lt;/b&gt; Unele plante pot prinde radacini cand sunt inca legate de planta mama, tehnica ce este numita marcotare. Ingroparea unei portiuni a tulpinii incurajeaza formarea radacinilor la fiecare nod ingropat. Marcotarea ocupa destul de mult spatiu, intrucat trebuie sa ingropati tulpina atasata aproape de planta parinte. Nu veti obtine multe plante noi utilizand aceasta metoda (de obicei una singura pentru fiecare tulpina), si pot trece saptamani sau chiar luni pana cand tulpina va prinde radacini. Plantele rezultate vor fi duplicate exacte ale plantei parinte.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fCBO8tjKIaE/Tp8DogWYGjI/AAAAAAAAAu8/NroaLfR0OQo/s1600/marcotarea.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 107px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fCBO8tjKIaE/Tp8DogWYGjI/AAAAAAAAAu8/NroaLfR0OQo/s200/marcotarea.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665250850668812850" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Puteti folosi aceasta tehnica in cazul plantelor care au tulpini flexibile sau care sunt taratoare si au capacitatea de a prinde radacini din nodurile de frunze. Candidate bune pentru marcotare sunt garoafele, geranium, arabis, cerastium si clopoteii. Marcotarea nu va avea niciun efect in cazul crinilor de-o zi, ierburilor ornamentale, crinului de toamna, irisului, bujorilor sau a altor plante perene stufoase. Primavara este perioada potrivita pentru marcotare, cu toate ca aceasta operatiune poate fi efectuata oricand in timpul sezonului de crestere.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Cum functioneaza&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Gasiti o tulpina potrivita. Daca planta este verticala, cautati una sau cateva tulpini lungi care se indoaie cu usurinta la pamant; daca planta este taratoare, orice tulpina este buna. Lasati pe tulpina cele mai de sus trei grupuri de frunze pentru a permite hranirea plantei, dar indepartati frunzele de pe tulpina care sunt crescute la o distanta intre 5 si 17,5 cm sub frunzisul din varf. Smulgeti cu atentie frunzele de pe cel putin doua noduri, avand grija sa nu deteriorati mugurii latenti. Indoiti tulpina la pamant si vedeti in ce punct face contact cu solul zona dezgolita. Afanati pamantul din acea zona pana la o adancime de 10 cm si udati-l. Ingropati tulpina in solul afanat, fixand-o cu o sarma indoita si indesati pamantul peste tulpina. Tulpina trebuie sa fie ingropata la o adancime de 5 pana la 7,5 cm, cu arful infrunzit expus in continuare. Daca marcotati un lastar vertical, incurajati varful plantei sa se intoarca in pozitia sa legandu-l de un tutore mic, daca acest lucru este necesar.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;In timp ce tulpina ingropata prinde radacini, mentineti zona umeda si protejata. In functie de temperatura si de specie, procesul va dura intre cateva saptamani si cateva luni. Cea mai simpla metoda de marcotare este sa lasati planta la locul ei pana in sezonul urmator. Daca doriti rezultate mai rapide, verificati dezvoltarea acesteia descoperind tulpina cu delicatete si privind radacina, sau tragand usor pentru a vedea daca planta s-a prins in pamant. De indata ce radacinile au atins o lungime de aproximativ 2,5 cm, puteti taia tulpina de planta mama. Asteptati cateva saptamani pentru a prinde mai multe radacini, apoi sapati si replantati noua planta.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-7725021475846716676?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/7725021475846716676/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/marcotarea.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/7725021475846716676?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/7725021475846716676?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/marcotarea.html" title="MARCOTAREA" /><author><name>Admin</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fCBO8tjKIaE/Tp8DogWYGjI/AAAAAAAAAu8/NroaLfR0OQo/s72-c/marcotarea.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUAERng4cSp7ImA9WhdaEE4.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-6729034433770888474</id><published>2011-10-19T07:23:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-10-19T08:21:47.639-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-10-19T08:21:47.639-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Metode de altoire" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Altoirea pomilor" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Altoirea pomilor fructiferi" /><title>Metode de altoire</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/lSBmxMUMA-RTi1K1ZqGoWasuV2E/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/lSBmxMUMA-RTi1K1ZqGoWasuV2E/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/lSBmxMUMA-RTi1K1ZqGoWasuV2E/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/lSBmxMUMA-RTi1K1ZqGoWasuV2E/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;ALTOIREA PRIN OCULTATIE&lt;/b&gt;: Este o metoda foarte veche de altoire si continua sa fie cea mai des folosita. Desi exista cateva variante de aplicare a acestei metode, principiul este acelasi: sub o deschidere practicata in scoarta portaltoiului se amplaseaza un fragment din scoarta altoiului care contine un mugure al acestuia. Cele mai cunoscute metode de ocultatie sunt: ocultatia in ochi dormind, ocultatia in ochi crescand, ocultatia inelara, ocultatia cu placa intermediara.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cOpdFFAYick/Tp7qscLRc0I/AAAAAAAAAuw/oAUacX4dxko/s1600/altoirea-pomilor.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 137px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cOpdFFAYick/Tp7qscLRc0I/AAAAAAAAAuw/oAUacX4dxko/s200/altoirea-pomilor.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665223430477280066" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;ALTOIREA COPULATIVA&lt;/b&gt;: Metoda urmareste obtinerea unei combinatii altoi-portaltoi prin suprapunerea tuturor zonelor de tesut aflate in sectiunea portaltoiului cu cele corespondente aflate in sectiunea altoiului.O conditie principala la aceasta metoda de altoire este existenta unor portaltoiuri si altoi care in zona de copulatie sa aiba grosimi foarte apropiate. In pepiniere copulatia simpla in apropierea solului se aplica atunci cand altoirea cu ochi nu a reusit. Copulatia pe ramificatiile principale ale coroanei se aplica mai ales in cazul altoirilor intermediare caz in care se castiga mult timp. Altoirea prin copulatie simpla se aplica iarna si primavara, deci in repaus vegetativ. Trebuie sa se urmareasca ca atat portaltoii in zona de altoire cat si ramurile altoi sa aiba varsta de un an cand pot avea grosimea unui creion sau ceva peste aceasta grosime.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;ALTOIREA SUB SCOARTA&lt;/b&gt;: Este o metoda de altoire care imbina principiile ocultatiei cu cele ale altoirii copulative. Metodele sunt: altoirea sub scoarta laterala  in T cu ramura detasata, altoirea simpla sub scoarta, altoirea sub scoarta perfectionata si altoirea Tittel.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;ALTOIREA IN TRIANGULATIE&lt;/b&gt;: Cand ramurile sau trunchiul portaltoiului sunt mult mai groase decat altoiul se poate folosi si metoda de altoire in triangulatie. Aceasta metoda nu mai este conditionata de perioada de desprindere usoara a scoartei pentru ca atat in pregatirea altoiului cat si in pregatirea portaltoiului nu se impune desprinderea scoartei. Aplicarea triangulatiei presupune existenta capetelor de altoire (deschidere ulterioara). Principiul metodei consta in obtinerea unei degajari in forma de piramida rasturnata cu trei laturi in lemnul portaltoiului  si fasonarea altoiului tot in forma de piramida cu trei laturi care sa ocupe perfect spatiul liber practicat de portaltoi.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;ALTOIREA IN DESPICATURA&lt;/b&gt;: Aceasta metoda nu este atat de complicata ca si altoirea in triangulatie. Ea se aplica in repaus vegetativ (sfarsitul lui februarie - aprilie) si presupune o flexibilitate buna a fibrelor lemnoase.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Realizarea penei altoiului urmareste ca aceasta sa fie cat mai plana pentru a nu necesita o departare prea mare intre laturile despicaturii. Altoii vor avea si aici mugure de pana si muguri suplimentari pe inaltime.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Metoda aceasta presupune diferente foarte mari intre diametrele altoiurilor si portaltoiurilor. Nu presupune existenta unei perioade optime de dezlipire a scoartei. Se pastreaza regula ca lungimea penei trebuie sa fie cam de 6 ori diametrul altoiului. Trebuie precizat de la inceput ca altoirea in despicatura facuta exact pe diametrul capului de altoire necesita un altoi cu acelasi diametru si, in acest caz, copulatia este mult mai indicata.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;ALTOIREA PE CIOTURI&lt;/b&gt;: Este metoda de altoire in coroana utilizata atunci cand ramurile au un diametru mic. Diferenta fata de altoirea in despicatura este aceea ca la altoirea pe cioturi axul altoiului nu este paralel cu axul portaltoiului  ci se afla intr-un unghi ascutit fata de acesta.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;REALTOIREA POMILOR FRUCTIFERI&lt;/b&gt;: Realtoirea nu este o operatie de care sa se faca uz in mod frecvent. Obiectul realtoirii il fac pomii maturi, intrati pe rod iar necesitatea aplicarii acestuia este dictata de, in principal, de urmatoarele situatii:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;-randament foarte scazut al unui soi in conditiile de clima si sol ale respectivului areal;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;-necesitatea interventiei in vederea franarii sau impulsionarii dezvoltarii coroanei.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Deasemene, o alternativa la realtoire este defrisarea si plantarea unor soiuri corespunzatoare. Cheltuielile nu vor fi insa mai mici, iar perioada de asteptare pana la intrarea pe rod este maai lunga decat in cazul realtoirii.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Operatiile premergatoare realtoirii propriu-zise se axeaza pe alegerea altoilor si pe pregatirea coroanei in vederea realtoirii.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-6729034433770888474?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/6729034433770888474/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/metode-de-altoire.html#comment-form" title="1 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/6729034433770888474?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/6729034433770888474?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/metode-de-altoire.html" title="Metode de altoire" /><author><name>Admin</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cOpdFFAYick/Tp7qscLRc0I/AAAAAAAAAuw/oAUacX4dxko/s72-c/altoirea-pomilor.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>1</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUMDQX0_eCp7ImA9WhdbGUs.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-7198709822580696294</id><published>2011-10-13T03:43:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-10-18T11:44:30.340-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-10-18T11:44:30.340-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fasolea verde" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Legume" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Conservarea fasolei" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plantarea fasolei" /><title>FASOLEA VERDE</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/ctxf73Q_-dBfpuj24UvsNGaVfBk/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/ctxf73Q_-dBfpuj24UvsNGaVfBk/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/ctxf73Q_-dBfpuj24UvsNGaVfBk/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/ctxf73Q_-dBfpuj24UvsNGaVfBk/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jf-hWIVeZGs/Tp3JBBxZajI/AAAAAAAAAuk/85rGgc5_x04/s1600/fasolea-verde.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 157px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jf-hWIVeZGs/Tp3JBBxZajI/AAAAAAAAAuk/85rGgc5_x04/s200/fasolea-verde.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664904925794626098" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Este o leguma perfecta pentru o mica gradina. Rezista mult si poate fi crescuta pe suporturi de lemn sau pe garduri.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Credte in zone mai calduroase; climatele mai reci pot necesita un soi cu o maturizare mai simpla. Se planteaza in soare direct. Prefera solul bogat in humus, dar nu excesiv de fertil; pH 6.0-7.0. Semanati dupa ce a trecut pericolul de inghet, la o adancime de 2,5 cm si la o distanta de 7,5 cm, pe randuri simple sau duble. Pastrati un strat protector. E necesara o irigare atenta atunci cand planta e in floare. Pentru a va asigura o provizie constanta, cultivati cantitati mici la o distanta de patru saptamani si va opriti cu doua luni inainte de primul inghet al toamnei. Gandacii mexicani de fasole pot reprezenta pericol serios pe la mijlocul sezonului; acoperirea randurilor ajuta la eliminarea acestor daunatori. Plantate prea devreme in sol umed si rece, semintele pot putrezi inainte de a germina. O cultura mica pentru o recolta timpurie poate fi riscanta, dar culturile mai mari destinate congelarii sau conservarii trebuie amanate pana la stabilizarea vremii. 42-55 de zile fara inghet ii trebuie pentru a ajunge la maturitate. Puteti recolta la orice marima, dar inainte ca semintele sa inceapa sa se umfle.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-7198709822580696294?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/7198709822580696294/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/fasolea-verde.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/7198709822580696294?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/7198709822580696294?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/fasolea-verde.html" title="FASOLEA VERDE" /><author><name>Admin</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jf-hWIVeZGs/Tp3JBBxZajI/AAAAAAAAAuk/85rGgc5_x04/s72-c/fasolea-verde.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUIAQX4yeip7ImA9WhdbGUs.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-5589476768333017935</id><published>2011-10-13T03:13:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-10-18T11:45:40.092-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-10-18T11:45:40.092-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Spanacul de toamna" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Spanacul cultivare" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Spanacul congelat" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Legume" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Spanacul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Plantarea spanacului" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Spanacul de primavara" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Depozitarea spanacului" /><title>SPANACUL</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/S76iGHYzbeSoKuANWAEnEFmh0qg/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/S76iGHYzbeSoKuANWAEnEFmh0qg/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/S76iGHYzbeSoKuANWAEnEFmh0qg/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/S76iGHYzbeSoKuANWAEnEFmh0qg/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YsR31orBIwk/Tpa95w6F2OI/AAAAAAAAAuA/vNG69K8dIes/s1600/spanac.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 134px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YsR31orBIwk/Tpa95w6F2OI/AAAAAAAAAuA/vNG69K8dIes/s200/spanac.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662922381543725282" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Delicios si sanatos proaspat sau gatit, spanacul are nevoie de foarte multa apa si vreme rece pentru a putea da frunze bogate si gustoase.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Se creste la soare direct sau semi-umbra in sol umed, fertil; pH 6.0-7.0. Semanati la o adancime de 12 mm cu patru-sase saptamani inainte de ultimul inghet de primavara. In zonele cu anotimpuri scurte, unde caldura vine brusc, incepeti plantarea in interior. Asezati la 10-15 cm distanta. Pliviti si udati regulat. Cultivati cultura de toamna cu patru-sase saptamani inainte de primul inghet sau mai tarziu, pentru a trece de iarna. Plantati mult, deoarece spanacul germineaza greu in sol cald. Acoperiti randurile pentru a proteja impotriva insectelor. Vremea calda si zilele mai lungi pot face ca plantele sa se aplece. Folositi soiuri rezistente la caldura si semanati devreme cultura de primavara. Timpul necesar pentru maturizare este de 40-53 de zile. Spanacul suporta un inghet moderat. Culegeti frunzele mai mari din exterior sau culegeti toata planta de la baza. Spanacul se poate congela.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-5589476768333017935?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/5589476768333017935/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/spanacul.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/5589476768333017935?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/5589476768333017935?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/spanacul.html" title="SPANACUL" /><author><name>Admin</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YsR31orBIwk/Tpa95w6F2OI/AAAAAAAAAuA/vNG69K8dIes/s72-c/spanac.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUINSX06eCp7ImA9WhdbGUs.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-99600317603826782</id><published>2011-10-13T02:51:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-10-18T11:46:38.310-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-10-18T11:46:38.310-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gutuiul japonez" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinaritul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fructe - bace - nuci" /><title>GUTUIUL JAPONEZ</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/T-LpHdVkoQLOK43BforrzNJRI8Q/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/T-LpHdVkoQLOK43BforrzNJRI8Q/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/T-LpHdVkoQLOK43BforrzNJRI8Q/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/T-LpHdVkoQLOK43BforrzNJRI8Q/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hbzaAz6z3LY/Tpa4nO53S_I/AAAAAAAAAt0/7IQwITGpj7Y/s1600/Gutuiul-japonez.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 145px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hbzaAz6z3LY/Tpa4nO53S_I/AAAAAAAAAt0/7IQwITGpj7Y/s200/Gutuiul-japonez.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662916565620182002" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;FRUCTE - GUTUIUL JAPONEZ&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Face fructe galben-verzui. Chiar si atunci cand sunt coapte, sunt tari ca piatra si astringente, dar se pot face gemuri si peltele foarte bune din ele.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Se planteaza in soare direct, sol usor acid. Tolereaza foarte bine solul uscat. Creste pana la 90-300 cm inaltime si o intindere similara. Transplantati tufele crescute in ghiveci in orice moment in care pamantul nu este inghetat sau saditi plante cu radacinile nude primavara sau toamna, in timp ce sunt in stare de hibernare. Saditi plantele la o distanta intre 90 si 300 cm. Se reproduce singur, deci va fi suficienta o singura planta pentru a obtine fructe. Tundeti iarna, taiati periodic pana la pamant crengile mai batrane, pentru a face loc tulpinilor tinere. Pentru o revitalizare drastica, taiati toata planta pana la nivelul solului. Poate tolera si tunderea sub forma de gard viu, desi veti pierde din flori si fructe. Semintele germineaza foarte usor dupa doua sau trei luni cu temperaturi scazute si cu umezeala. Inmultiti prin butasi de lemn moale, prin marcotare sau prin divizare. Minimalizati problemele aparute din cauza ruginii plantand intr-un loc cu soare direct si in care adie vantul, si tundeti, pentru a asigura o buna circulatie a aerului. Fructele se coc la sfarsitul sezonului, schimbandu-si usor culoarea. Depozitati-le in frigider.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-99600317603826782?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/99600317603826782/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/gutuiul-japonez.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/99600317603826782?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/99600317603826782?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/gutuiul-japonez.html" title="GUTUIUL JAPONEZ" /><author><name>Admin</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hbzaAz6z3LY/Tpa4nO53S_I/AAAAAAAAAt0/7IQwITGpj7Y/s72-c/Gutuiul-japonez.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUEGQHw9eCp7ImA9WhdbGUs.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7558359160341932813.post-1946982898529895310</id><published>2011-10-11T10:54:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2011-10-18T11:47:01.260-07:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2011-10-18T11:47:01.260-07:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Gradinarul" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Ierburi" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Oregano" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Ierburi ornamentale" /><title>OREGANO</title><content type="html">
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/5X5TaYvh2i8kb6HgesqHyMJJHrs/0/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/5X5TaYvh2i8kb6HgesqHyMJJHrs/0/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;
&lt;a href="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/5X5TaYvh2i8kb6HgesqHyMJJHrs/1/da"&gt;&lt;img src="http://feedads.g.doubleclick.net/~a/5X5TaYvh2i8kb6HgesqHyMJJHrs/1/di" border="0" ismap="true"&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hkg6BpyAwQ/TpSHZuO0x0I/AAAAAAAAAto/DbPcXe3A-R4/s1600/oregano.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 161px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hkg6BpyAwQ/TpSHZuO0x0I/AAAAAAAAAto/DbPcXe3A-R4/s200/oregano.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662299507488245570" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Experimentati cu cateva tipuri pentru a descoperi aroma care va place cel mai mult. Lastarii cu frunze mici, rotunde si flori miniaturale creeaza un decor atractiv.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Se creste in soare direct. Solul de gradina mediu si bine drenat. Semanati nu foarte adanc in interior iarna pentru o germinare mai buna; semanati in aer liber daca temperatura solului este mai mare de 7 g C. Plantati in grupuri la 30 cm departare unul de celalalt. Tundeti in mod regulat pentru o forma frumoasa. Intrucat rasadurile nu vor produce intodeauna aceeasi aroma ca plantele originale, prelevati butasi sau divizati radacinile primavara sau toamna devreme pentru a obtine cele mai bune rezultate. Aplicati moderat strat protector in fiecare primavara, cu compost sau balegar bine putrezit. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: justify;"&gt;Este o planta perena; inaltime 30-75 cm; ierboasa, asemanatoare arbustilor. Infloreste din iulie pana in septembrie; flori trandafirii si albe, cilindrice in manuchiuri terminale. Oferiti un drenaj bun pentru a preveni bolile radacinilor. Spalati cu jet de apa puricii si paienjenii. Rupeti lastarii proaspeti atunci cand aveti nevoie, pe toata perioada verii; taiati intreaga planta in iunie si la sfarsitul lui august; atarnati frunzisul in legaturi uscate.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7558359160341932813-1946982898529895310?l=gradinarul.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/feeds/1946982898529895310/comments/default" title="Postare comentarii" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/oregano.html#comment-form" title="0 comentarii" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/1946982898529895310?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7558359160341932813/posts/default/1946982898529895310?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://gradinarul.blogspot.com/2011/10/oregano.html" title="OREGANO" /><author><name>Admin</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="16" height="16" src="http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hkg6BpyAwQ/TpSHZuO0x0I/AAAAAAAAAto/DbPcXe3A-R4/s72-c/oregano.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry></feed>

