Using a chapter out of my Do As I Say, Not As I Do book, I measured myself and proceeded to draft a . . . → Read More: Misadventures in Making a Sloper, Part 1]]>

So…way back in January, I said that one of my goals for the year is to make a basic skirt sloper.  I can then  use the sloper as the foundation for drafting patterns.

Using a chapter out of my Do As I Say, Not As I Do book, I measured myself and proceeded to draft a pattern using the same steps from my video tutorials (Part 1; Part 2; Part 3; Part 4).

As you can see from the resulting pattern, I was going to have trouble with the fit:

The front side seam is quite curvy while the back side seam is virtually straight.

Also, the back curved up in weird way.  But I have a sway back so I went with it and added seam allowances anyway.

As you can see…it didn’t fit…

Not even close…

Do  you like the designer socks?

The waist was 4-5 inches too big. I primarily miscalculated the intakes for the darts because of my poochy stomach and swayback.

You should have a “pinch” not a full-on “grip” on the side seams.

So…back to the drawing board for me!

Matchbook cover; Image courtesy of WackyStuff on Flickr.com

But my vision . . . → Read More: Back To Basics]]>

When I was in design school working on my custom clothing certificate, I learned that I should think holistically–I shouldn’t just create one garment, I should think in terms of a collection and how they go together.  And I understand that rationale. Completely.

Matchbook cover; Image courtesy of WackyStuff on Flickr.com

But my vision for what I want that collection to become is hampered by my lack of pattern drafting skills.  Oh sure, I can create a garment using couture techniques now.  But I’m having a heck of a time drafting or adapting patterns for my figure.  Give me a Size 8 dress form or my dancer sister and I’m golden.  Give me my own figure and I just run into problems.  Therefore, I’ve decided that 2013′s primary learning and sewing goals are to

• (Re)learn how to draft patterns and learn how to use the professional-grade pattern drafting software I bought when I was in design school
• Draft basic patterns (slopers) that can then be adapted into something fashionable
  • Skirt
  • Bodice
  • Pant
  • Dress (this is actually the skirt and bodice sloper attached at the waist)
• Source from my fabric stash when feasible

I am fortunate in that my university has a Family and Consumer Sciences program so the library has lots of resources that I can use in this quest to develop my pattern drafting skills.  Alas, we’re severely understaffed in my office right now so I won’t be able to take any classes from my F&CS colleagues this year.

My ultimate goal is to be able to create patterns inspired by my vintage pattern collection.  Then I can finally make my “Ladies Who Lunch” wardrobe!

What is your sewing-related learning intention for the year?

The Hollywood studio system was on its last gasping breaths when I was growing up.  “Hollywood Glamor” was still quite influential because most of the stars that had been groomed under the studio system were still around.  I would wager that my love of vintage garments is a . . . → Read More: “Gowns By Adrian”]]>

Crackling Flame Dress by Adrian, 1943

The Hollywood studio system was on its last gasping breaths when I was growing up.  “Hollywood Glamor” was still quite influential because most of the stars that had been groomed under the studio system were still around.  I would wager that my love of vintage garments is a result of the Golden Age of Hollywood.

Most people, rightly so, think of Edith Head when it comes to costuming during that era.  But there was another highly influential designer who created iconic looks for the stars over at MGM from 1928 – 1941: Adrian.  I know I’m in for a visual treat whenever I see “Gowns By Adrian” in the opening credits of a film during that era.

As I was exploring my new-to-me public library in Bloomington, I discovered Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label by Christian Esquevin (The Monacelli Press, April 10, 2008).  For the next couple of weeks, it became my nightstand reading.

While the text is filled with juicy tidbits about mid-century Hollywood, the photos of his work are what really make this book.  You see, back then the stars were not a Size 0 and it was the costumer’s task to play up a star’s assets while diminishing her “figure flaws” while also creating a story through clothing.  That’s how come Joan Crawford ended up with those shoulder pads in all of those movies!  We think of her “power suit” as iconic rather than trying to “hide” her broad shoulders!

I haven’t decided if this book was inspirational or aspirational. As I examined the photos, I noticed that, in addition to bias draping and asymmetrical designs, he was the master of unexpected details on what would normally be a basic silhouette.  For example, in 1953 he created a gown with a peplum for a Revlon advertisement.  What really made the gown unique was the band of filigree going up one arm.  I was inspired by the understated elegance of Adrian’s designs. But the book also challenged my way of thinking about my sewing.  I really want to incorporate unexpected details into my garments now so that they, too, will exude a classic, but not boring, elegance.

Have you heard of Adrian?

I’m a bit frustrated.  My sewing time today was spent running errands.  What should have taken me an hour or so turned into five!

I ironed a patch onto a pair of jeans about a month ago.  It is the . . . → Read More: This Is The Closest I’ve Come to Sewing]]>

Drezo “Seal brand” Iron-On Knee Patches – 1950′s; Image courtesy of kocojim on Flickr.com

I’m a bit frustrated.  My sewing time today was spent running errands.  What should have taken me an hour or so turned into five!

I ironed a patch onto a pair of jeans about a month ago.  It is the closest I’ve come to sewing anything since last June.  I told The Mister that I’m going to have to reorganize how we do errands.  From now on we’ll do them when he picks me up from work.  Because I need to sew!  I need a winter wardrobe!

Those are boxes of patterns and fabric filling the closet. There are stacks of boxes on either side of the boxes that you can see. There are also some more boxes that didn’t fit in the closet, but we won’t mention those…right?

I have my priorities...I got the ironing board set up right away!

Most of the boxes have fabric and vintage patterns (but I'm NOT about to admit to The Mister that he may be right about the size of my fabric and pattern stashes! *laugh*)

Okay, I think it is okay to share my good news now that the contract is signed, sealed, and delivered…..

A week from now, I will be starting my new job at Illinois State University in their Center for Teaching, Learning, and Technology as one of their faculty . . . → Read More: “You Have More Fabric Than You’ll Ever Be Able To Use In This Lifetime and Beyond”]]>

Image courtesy of CaptainSpaulding on Flicker.com

Okay, I think it is okay to share my good news now that the contract is signed, sealed, and delivered…..

A week from now, I will be starting my new job at Illinois State University in their Center for Teaching, Learning, and Technology as one of their faculty development specialists.  I am quite excited (and nervous, too)!  It all happened quite fast.  The Mister will finish packing up the house and join me ASAP.

Today we consolidated and boxed up my fabric and pattern stashes.  We ended up with about 15 banker’s boxes (you know, the ones office workers use to store old files).  The Mister was dismayed by how much fabric and how many patterns I have.  As he was taping up the last box he said to me, “You are not going to go to Chicago to buy fabric.  You have more fabric than you’ll ever be able to use in this lifetime and beyond.”

He’s right.  I have a lot of fabric.  But as I boxing it up, I was envisioning all of the fabulous things I will be making out of the fabric–especially now that I will be living where there are seasons and will need winter-weight clothes again (although, it seems like the thermometer is stuck on extreme heat conditions for most of the country…so I apologize right now for mentioning heavier weight clothing).

And you all know that I’ll be making a pilgrimage up to Vogue Fabrics…no matter what The Mister says…just because

Do your significant others make comments about your stash?

Request: Please keep us in your thoughts and prayers as we make this transition.  I will be staying at an extended stay hotel until I can find a place for us to live so I’m hoping that “the perfect place” will open up by the end of the month.  Keep The Mister in your thoughts as he finishes everything up here.  There’s so much to do in a short amount of time and I am trying to lean into my faith instead of surrendering to feelings of being overwhelmed.  Thank you!

Pink . . . → Read More: Cutie Pie in a Drop Shoulder Dress]]>

I started working on a McCall’s 5966 “Sew*Crafty” (View C) dress for Baby, er, I mean, Toddler Alice at my American Sewing Guild Neighborhood Group meeting in March.  Per my usual modus operandi, I spent more time chatting than actually sewing.  But I did somehow manage to get the bodice put together.

Pink and white swirly floral print cotton blend

Then I started working on the Every Stitch a Prayer project for my older sister and Alice’s dress got put aside.

And then I got my sinus and ear infections and that wiped me out for a good three weeks or so in May.  Seriously.  I was so grateful that my school year was over.  I don’t know how I would have been able to teach. I tried working on Alice’s dress but I kept making mistakes so I did what my body was demanding of me: I rested.

And then my sister, Jill, told me that Alice was having a growth spurt and we panicked about whether the dress would still fit her.  When I was feeling well enough to sit at the sewing machine, I finished Alice’s dress and mailed it off to her.

Alice on her way to church in her new dress

Pattern Review:

This dress is very easy to put together and it turns out looking like it is much harder to make than it is.  The hardest part is gathering the waist.  Well, and working with such small pieces (the armhole seems so tiny!). 

But, as you can see, despite the fact that Alice’s measurements aligned with Size 2 exactly, the dress is still too big even after her growth spurt.  The shoulder shouldn’t be coming 2″ down her arm.

She’ll grow into it but it is still annoying that pattern companies put so much ease into their patterns.  Because it was a children’s pattern, I didn’t even think to check the actual pattern measurements against Alice’s measurements before I cut out the fabric.  Now I know that I need to do the double-check, even on children’s patterns.  The idea that even a toddler’s clothes needs pattern adjustments doesn’t thrill me…at all.

(I can hear my pattern making instructors telling me that it is easier to draft your own pattern than to use a commercial pattern!)

Construction note:

Because the fabric was a lightweight cotton, I used my pinking shears to finish the raw edges.

Next up on the sewing docket:

Now that I’m starting to get my energy back, some clothes for me!