Pullers are used to remove parts such as gears, bearings, pulleys, and other components from shafts, axles, and other machinery parts without damaging the equipment.

Pullers fall into two major categories:

1. Mechanical Pullers: this most common type of puller features a threaded rod or spindle attached to a set of arms or jaws. These arms or jaws are designed to grip the part to be removed securely. As the threaded rod is turned, it exerts a pulling force on the part, gradually dislodging it from its place.
2. Hydraulic Pullers: Hydraulic pullers use hydraulic pressure to exert force on the part being removed. They are capable of generating high levels of force and are often used for heavy-duty applications where mechanical pullers may not be sufficient.

Within these categories there are several types of pullers available, each designed for specific applications and requirements:

Jaw Pullers: Jaw pullers are the most common and versatile tools, featuring two or three jaws that grip around the part to be removed. They come in various sizes and configurations, including mechanical and hydraulic versions. Jaw pullers are suitable for a wide range of applications and can be used to apply a significant force to remove stubborn parts.

Slide Hammer Pullers: Slide hammer pullers consist of a heavy slide hammer attached to a threaded shaft or other adapter. The slide hammer is repeatedly struck or hammered to apply force to the part being removed. This type of puller is often used for removing gears, bearings, and other parts that require a sharp, sudden force.

Bearing Separators: Bearing separators are designed specifically for removing bearings from shafts or housings. They typically feature a set of jaws or hooks that grip behind the bearing while a central screw or hydraulic mechanism applies force to pull the bearing off its seat.

Pilot Bearing Pullers: Pilot bearing pullers are specialized tools used to remove pilot bearings or bushings from the crankshaft of an engine or other machinery. They often feature a collet or expanding mechanism that grips the inside diameter of the bearing while a central screw or hydraulic mechanism applies force to pull it out.

Gear Pullers: Gear pullers are designed specifically for removing gears from shafts. They typically feature two or three jaws that grip behind the gear while a central screw or hydraulic mechanism applies force to pull it off the shaft.

Puller Components:

How To Select the Right Puller

When choosing a puller for a particular application, it's essential to understand its key technical specifications to ensure it is appropriate for the task at hand.

Capacity: is the amount of pulling force that can be safely exerted by the puller without damage to the tool or the part being worked on. In real-life applications it is very difficult to predict the amount of force needed for a pulling operation. One rule of thumb in choosing a puller is the center bolt diameter must be at least ½ the diameter of the shaft from which the object is being removed. It is impossible to predict the exact force needed for every pulling situation.

Spread: is the maximum distance between the jaws. A proper puller has a large enough spread to attach to the object being removed.

Reach: is the distance between the pulling surface of the jaw and the jaw head of the puller. This distance increases or decreases as the jaws are opened and closed. When choosing a puller, make certain the reach is sufficient to attach the puller.

Number of jaws: most pullers feature 2 or 3 jaws. The 3 jaw versions are usually preferable as the additional jaw helps distribute the force more evenly. However, in some applications where space is limited, only 2 jaws are necessary. Thus, some models feature one jaw that can be removed and reattached as needed, making the puller more versatile.

Internal/External: many models are reversible, meaning the jaws can be adjusted for internal or external pulling.

Manual versus Self-Adjusting Puller

Users can further narrow the search for pullers, by deciding to choose a model that can be manually adjusted, or a self-adjusting option.

In manual-adjusting pullers, the user manually adjusts the arms or legs of the puller to accommodate the size and shape of the object being pulled. This may involve loosening bolts or screws and physically repositioning the arms to fit around the object.

Versatility: Manual-adjusting pullers offer versatility in that they can be adjusted to fit various sizes and shapes of objects.

Control: Users have direct control over the adjustment process, allowing them to make fine adjustments as needed during the extraction process.

Complexity: Manual-adjusting pullers may require more effort and time to set up and adjust compared to self-adjusting pullers.

Self-adjusting pullers feature mechanisms that automatically adjust to the size and shape of the object being pulled. These mechanisms may include springs, gears, or other devices that expand or contract the arms of the puller to fit around the object.

Ease of Use: Self-adjusting pullers are generally easier and quicker to set up since they automatically adapt to the object being pulled without requiring manual adjustments.

Speed: Self-adjusting pullers can speed up the extraction process since there's no need for manual adjustments during the operation.

Limitations: Self-adjusting pullers may have limitations in terms of the range of sizes and shapes they can accommodate compared to manual-adjusting pullers.

How Pullers Work

Pullers work by applying mechanical force to extract or remove objects such as bearings, gears, pulleys, and other press-fit components from shafts, holes, or other mounting surfaces. The process involves several key steps:

Preparation: Before using a puller, it's essential to prepare the equipment and the object being pulled. This may involve cleaning the surfaces, ensuring proper alignment, and selecting the appropriate type and size of the puller for the task.

Attachment: The puller is positioned around the object to be extracted, with the jaws or hooks of the puller securely gripping onto the object. The arms or legs of the puller may be adjusted manually or automatically to ensure a snug fit around the object.

Application of Force: Once the puller is properly positioned, force is applied to the puller to loosen the object from its mounting surface. This force is typically applied by turning a center bolt or screw mechanism using a wrench, ratchet, or other tools.

Even Distribution of Force: Pullers are designed to distribute the force evenly across the object being pulled to avoid damage or distortion. This helps ensure that the object is extracted smoothly without causing any additional problems.

Gradual Extraction: In most cases, force is applied gradually to the puller to slowly and steadily extract the object from its mounting surface. This helps prevent sudden movements or damage to the object or surrounding equipment.

Monitoring and Adjustment: Throughout the extraction process, it's important to monitor the progress and make any necessary adjustments to the puller or the application of force. This may involve repositioning the puller, tightening or loosening the center bolt, or making other adjustments to ensure that the extraction proceeds smoothly.

Completion and Removal: Once the object has been successfully extracted, the puller is removed, and the object can be inspected, cleaned, and prepared for further use or replacement.

Overall, pullers work by leveraging mechanical force and proper alignment to safely and effectively extract objects from their mounting surfaces. By following the appropriate procedures and using the right equipment, pullers can be invaluable tools for a wide range of maintenance, repair, and manufacturing applications.

Puller Maintenance 101

Maintaining a puller ensures its longevity and reliable performance over time. Here are some general tips for maintaining a puller:

Clean Regularly: After each use, clean the puller to remove dirt, debris, and any residues that may have accumulated during the operation. Use a brush, compressed air, or a solvent appropriate for the materials of the puller to clean its components thoroughly.

Inspect for Damage: Periodically inspect the puller for signs of wear, damage, or corrosion. Pay attention to the jaws, arms, center bolt, and other moving parts. Replace any damaged or worn-out components to prevent further deterioration and ensure safe operation.

Lubrication: Apply lubricant to the moving parts of the puller, such as the center bolt threads and pivot points, to reduce friction and prevent rust and corrosion. Use lubricants recommended by the manufacturer and avoid over-lubrication, which can attract dirt and debris.

Store Properly: Store the puller in a clean, dry, and well-ventilated area away from moisture, humidity, and extreme temperatures. Avoid storing the puller in direct sunlight or in areas where it may be exposed to corrosive substances.

Protective Coatings: Consider applying protective coatings or rust inhibitors to the metal surfaces of the puller to prevent corrosion and extend its lifespan. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for specific coating products and application methods.

Follow Manufacturer's Guidelines: Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines and recommendations for maintaining the puller. This includes proper assembly, usage, and maintenance procedures specified in the user manual or documentation provided by the manufacturer.

Inspect Accessories: If your puller comes with accessories such as jaws, hooks, or bolts, inspect them regularly for signs of wear or damage. Replace worn-out accessories to maintain the effectiveness and safety of the puller.

Training and Education: Ensure that operators are properly trained in the use and maintenance of the puller. Provide training sessions on proper handling, storage, and maintenance procedures to prevent accidents and prolong the life of the equipment.

By following these maintenance tips, you can help ensure that your puller remains in good working condition, prolong its lifespan, and minimize the risk of breakdowns or accidents during operation.

Beyond the initial cost and quantity, several critical factors should shape your decision-making process to ensure you're investing wisely in a tool set that will serve you well over time.

Does The Set Include Sizes You Really Need?

Getting many tools for your money is great, unless you’re not getting the tools you actually need. Check the set’s contents carefully and identify the tools that prompted you to look for the set in the first place.

Ideally, your set should include the tools you use frequently, or else you will have wasted money on tools that go unused and take up valuable space in the toolbox drawer. If the set includes only a fraction of the tools you need, consider a different set, even if you have to pay more, or buy the tools you actually need individually.

It is also important to look at the actual sizes each set includes and identify any missing sizes you need. This is particularly important in the case of sockets and wrench sets that include multiple sizes. Many sets, especially at an entry level price point, include the most popular sizes. However, professionals often use sizes that are not as popular, but badly needed for specific applications.

Pro Tip: Opt for sets tailored to your size requirements to prevent cluttering your toolbox with redundant tools.

Is the Packaging Functional?

Packaging is more than just aesthetics. It contributes to the overall value of the tool set. Evaluate how the set is packaged and whether it provides functional organization.

Well-designed packaging can enhance accessibility and efficiency, saving you from additional expenses on organizing tools separately. Consider the quality and long-term practicality of the packaging, as it directly impacts the ease of use and maintenance of your tools.

Pro Tip: Choose tool sets with durable and practical packaging to keep your tools organized and easily accessible.

Do the Tools Meet Recognized Manufacturing Standards?

Not all tools are made the same. Some are made with higher quality materials or undergo more manufacturing processes to maximize durability. The best manufacturers also pay attention to fine details, ensuring that their tools operate smoothly and that they fit fasteners securely. These additional steps and extra details are often why one tool may cost more than a similarly looking one from another brand.

Like most other things, you get what you pay for. With this in mind, here are a few of the more noticeable indicators of quality:

• How It’s Made: Quality hand tools adhere to safety regulations and guidelines established by regulatory bodies or industry associations. This includes considerations for manufacturing, testing, ergonomics, insulation for electrical tools, and other standards designed to minimize the risk of accidents or injuries during use. Reputable manufacturers identify the standards their tools meet on the packaging, website and other marketing material. Some popular regulations are the American National Standards Institute (A.N.S.I), and A.S.T.M. standards.
• How It Feels: Ergonomic design is crucial for hand tools to reduce fatigue and strain during extended use. Quality tools often feature comfortable handles with non-slip grips, allowing users to maintain control and leverage without discomfort.
• How It’s Finished: There should be no imperfections in a tool’s finish. For instance, there should be no chrome peeling or signs of rust. Quality tools will have a smooth, consistent finish that’s rust resistant.
• How It’s Marked: Laser-etched markings on sockets, wrenches and other tools are key to finding the right sized tool in short amount of time. It’s important to make sure the markings are durable and that they won’t easily wear off over time.

Pro Tip: Research manufacturers to ensure their tools meet stringent quality standards before making a long-term investment.

Is The Set Offered by a Credible Brand?

In today's global marketplace, any company can claim to sell tools, but a reputable brand stands the test of time. Consider the brand's reputation, which encompasses various intangible factors beyond the tool set itself.

• Warranty Process: A robust warranty reflects the brand's confidence in its products and provides you with peace of mind. Also, consider how easy it is to submit a warranty claim and if the manufacturer will be around for many years to honor the warranty.
• Speed of Delivery: Timely delivery is a company’s commitment to the customer. It ensures that you can get to work promptly without unnecessary delays.
• Post-Sale Support: A brand's willingness to assist customers after the sale is a testament to its dedication to customer satisfaction.
• Availability of Spare/Replacement Parts: Access to replacement parts allows you to extend the life of your tools. Like warranty programs, consider how easy it is to contact the company and if they’re likely to be in business for the foreseeable future.
• Quality of Post-Service Support: Efficient and quality post-service support ensures a positive ownership experience.

Pro Tip: Prioritize established brands with a solid track record in the tool industry for quality assurance and reliable customer service.

In summary, when purchasing a tool set, look beyond superficial metrics like price and piece count. Evaluate the practicality of tool sizes, the quality of packaging, adherence to manufacturing standards, and the reputation of the brand.

By conducting a thorough assessment, you'll select a tool set that not only meets your immediate needs but also proves to be a valuable long-term investment.

From adjustable wrenches to socket wrenches, each variant boasts distinct features and applications. Let's delve into the primary distinctions to aid you in selecting the optimal tool for your needs.

Combination Wrenches

Design and functionality: Combination wrenches feature both an open end and a closed end (ring) on the same tool, providing versatility for general-purpose tasks. The open end is typically set at a different angle than the closed end, allowing flexibility in various applications. Different sizes and lengths make combination wrenches to preferred tool in a variety of projects.

Uses: Ideal for diverse tasks, combination wrenches offer a secure grip for applying greater force with the closed end, and quick application and removal with the open end. While versatile, they may not match the efficiency of specialized wrenches.

Box-End Wrenches

Design and functionality: Box-end wrenches feature a closed-end design for a strong grip on fasteners, ensuring stability in demanding applications. The closed-box design enhances contact points with the fastener, reducing the risk of rounding off edges.

Uses: Well-suited for higher torque applications, box-end wrenches are less prone to slipping compared to their open-end counterparts. However, their utility may be limited in tight spaces due to the enclosed design.

Open-End Wrenches

Design and Functionality: Featuring U-shaped ends for swift application and removal, open-end wrenches excel in tight spaces where a full rotation is challenging.

Uses: Efficient in situations where a full circular motion is not possible, open-end wrenches are ideal for confined spaces. Caution is necessary to prevent rounding off bolt edges during use.

Ratcheting Wrenches

Design and Functionality: Ratcheting wrenches incorporate a ratcheting mechanism at the boxed end, enabling continuous force application in one direction without wrench repositioning. Available in various styles, such as double-boxed end, combination, and flex head, these wrenches mirror traditional functionality with the added convenience of the ratcheting mechanism.

Uses: Ideal for tight spaces where traditional wrenches may lack maneuverability, ratcheting wrenches allow you to keep the wrench in place while fastening. The optional switch permits a change in ratcheting direction without flipping the wrench. While excellent for loosening and tightening fasteners, caution is advised against using them to break fasteners loose, as it may damage the ratcheting mechanism.

Socket Wrenches

Design and functionality: Socket wrenches utilize interchangeable sockets on a ratcheting mechanism. With a variety of sizes available, they offer a secure grip and adaptability for different bolt heads. Various socket styles cater to diverse job requirements.

Uses: Socket wrenches excel in high-torque applications, such as automotive repairs. Their ratcheting mechanism facilitates efficient use in confined spaces, and the array of socket sizes makes them versatile for a wide range of tasks.

Torque Wrenches

Design and Functionality: Torque wrenches are specifically designed to apply a predetermined amount of torque to a fastener, ensuring precision in critical tasks. They come in various types, including dial-type, click-type, and electronic torque wrenches.

Uses: Essential for projects requiring precise torque, such as automotive work, torque wrenches are indispensable for those who prioritize accuracy. Click-type wrenches emit an audible click when the desired torque is reached, while dial-type wrenches rely on a visual scale for indication. Electronic torque wrenches offer digital precision and may include additional features like memory storage.

Crowfoot Wrenches

Design and Functionality: Crowfoot wrenches feature an open-ended design with a head shaped like a crow's foot, intended for reaching challenging-to-access fasteners.

Uses: Perfect for tight areas, crowfoot wrenches are typically used in conjunction with a torque wrench. They excel in reaching fasteners in spaces where traditional wrenches may struggle.

Adjustable Wrenches

Design and Functionality: Adjustable wrenches feature a movable jaw, allowing adaptation to different nut and bolt sizes. They come in various sizes, with some models featuring a built-in scale to gauge jaw width.

Uses: Versatility defines adjustable wrenches, making them suitable for tasks involving multiple fastener sizes. However, they may lack the precision fit of fixed-size wrenches and are not recommended for high-torque applications.

Pipe Wrenches

Design and Functionality: Pipe wrenches feature serrated jaws for a firm grip on pipes and rounded objects.

Uses: Primarily used in plumbing, these wrenches also prove useful in various applications requiring a secure grip on cylindrical objects. The adjustable jaw size accommodates different pipe diameters.

The following table provides a summary of the most suitable wrench based on specific requirements:

Selecting the appropriate wrench style for the task requires considering factors such as fastener size, space constraints, and the required torque level. Once you've narrowed down the list of compatible wrenches, you can make an informed decision on the tool that will efficiently complete the job. Investing in a diverse set of high-quality wrenches ensures you're well-prepared for any challenge that may arise.

I’ve always enjoyed watching a blacksmith work. It’s an art form, and a fascinating process to watch them pull red-hot metal from the forge, then a few minutes later with some skillful hammering and shaping, see an everyday object take shape. There’s just something intriguing about it, from the smell of the fire to the red-hot metal to the rhythmic clanking of the hammer.

In the old days, a blacksmith was known for making tools, horseshoes, wagon parts, farm implements and anything out of metal. But by the time the automobile arrived and created the need for auto mechanics and specific automotive tools, the industrial revolution had already changed the world with the development of machines and processes to minimize manual labor and increase the output of products. And that’s not the only thing that changed.

Today’s tools are built to withstand levels of stress well above that of years ago, and as auto technicians, we rely on it. A far cry from the hammer and anvil, today’s world of manufacturing is a fascinating subject, twisting together the evolution of science and technology into a dynamic process.

Wrenches are one of our most used tools, and they can take some serious abuse, so I thought it a perfect time to take a first-hand look at how they are made. Here’s a rundown.

Individual companies have their own specific formulas and procedures, but the major steps of the process are generally the same. It all starts with the material.

Most wrenches are made from an alloy steel, and more specifically, 6140 Chrome Vanadium steel. The reason is that 6140 Chrome Vanadium is a proven material for products that require both strength and durability. While those two aspects initially might seem to be one in the same, they are two different things.

Strength is a characteristic that means a material can withstand a considerable force, and durability is a characteristic that means it can withstand that force over and over again.

“When you select an alloy to make a tool out of, you need to think of the end use. The type of material you are going to make a hammer out of is different than that you are going to make a wrench out of,” said Paul Dean, VP of Operations, Gray Tools. “You pick a material that is going to impart the properties that the end use tool requires. When you think of a wrench, it must be strong so it doesn’t distort, and it must be durable, so it doesn’t wear. Chrome Vanadium is a common material, but we all use it because of the common properties in it.”

A stack of forged wrenches cooling off

Dean also pointed out that 6140 Chrome Vanadium has good abrasion, oxidation and corrosion resistance, and it’s conducive to future hardening, so it’s o­ften used as a base material for products that will go through a hardening step during the manufacturing process.

Since wrench manufacturers receive materials in large quantity, for example long steel rods, as a pre-production process these rods are cut to specific sizes, then o­ften sand-blasted to remove any impurities that could affect the production process. The billet, at that point just a piece of metal, is then heated close to its melting temperature.

Then it is drop forged, a process that takes the hot billet and shapes it into a rough forging. The rough forging gives you the shape you want, but not necessarily all the dimensions you need. When making wrenches, more than one size may be made from the same forging. The forging process is o­ften only one step, but it sometimes requires more than one depending on the configuration of the wrench, and some manufacturers utilize a nitrogen atmosphere during parts of it to protect the purity of the steel from the surrounding oxygen, which could cause burns and slag. 

The forgings cool quickly on their own but are then moved on to the next step of annealing. Annealing is a form of heat treatment which alters the physical properties of the metal to soften it in preparation for the finishing steps.

Next in line is broaching, a specific machining process which is the most common way of sizing the open and boxed ends of the wrenches. A broach is a metalworking tool that has a succession of teeth which increase in size in small increments, and pulled broaching is the most common process for wrenches, where the broach is pulled through until you get the size you want.

Now it’s time to stamp the wrench, which includes the sizing, part number and company name, and this is usually done on a punch press. After forging, a wrench is annealed so it is so­ enough to accept material removal and stamping, but after stamping, the metal needs no more work from a molecular standpoint of moving or shaping the metal.

Now it moves on to heat treating. All wrenches are heat treated to meet the hardness standards set forth by both American and international governing societies. Minimum and maximum hardness levels are very specific. A wrench cannot be too soft­ where it would potentially round off during use, and not too hard, causing it to be brittle. The heat-treating process, which is a critical and very scientific part of manufacturing, is often followed and combined with quenching and tempering.

An example is heat treating which heats the wrench and allows the absorption of carbon into the surface layer, followed by a cooling process called quenching, which dips it into a heated oil to precisely control the cooling time. Tempering is then an immediate follow-up heating and cooling process with different parameters. Heat treating strengthens the wrench, tempering prevents it from becoming too brittle.

 Many consider heat treating the most complicated part of the manufacturing process. “Each material has a different recipe for heat treating,” said Dean. “You tell your heat treater what the material is and the desired hardness, and they will come up with a curve. The real issue is, you can’t cool it too quickly because the metal could have delamination or micro cracks. It’s generally done in hotter oil to slow down the cooling.”

The heat-treating process can take hours, and it’s a very specific formula that can be difficult to get it right on, so there’s always an acceptable variance. After the wrenches are heat treated, they are checked with a hardness tester to make sure they are within the required tolerance.

As wrenches go through the manufacturing process, there’s quality control at every step, ensuring both highest performance and efficient production. “At Beta, the quality and design of our tools combines skill, craftsmanship and state-of-the-art technology,” said Destiny Skipper, Marketing Manager, Beta Tools USA.

After the hardness test and quality checks, it’s time for the polishing step. Polishing can be performed by a machine or done by hand, and it’s the first step affecting the final appearance of the wrench. Some companies also utilize a roto-finishing step. Roto-finishing, also known as vibratory finishing or tumbling, utilizes some form of media, commonly ceramic. The wrenches go in a container with water and chemicals, and they are then tumbled, which takes off any burrs, dirt or scale from heat treating, and you end up with an unplated product that looks very nice, smooth and shiny.

Now the wrench is ready for plating. The most common plating for wrenches is chrome (usually a nickel chrome), or a black oxide finish. Chrome plating is an electro plating that applies a current through the wrench, then deposits a nickel flash on the product first, and on top of the nickel flash, a layer of chrome.

A beautiful sight: chrome-plated wrenches

Black Oxide, on the other hand, is a chemical process where you put iron oxide into the surface of the product. Chrome is a more expensive process, and there’s a price difference for wrenches based on this factor alone.

Is one better than the other? The finish you choose depends on what you are using the wrench for and the environment. Chrome is very easy to maintain, corrosion-resistant and the nickel adds a little bit of hardness to the outside. It is most frequently used in the food industry because of the necessity to keep tools clean, the automotive industry and aircraft manufacturing. If there’s a downside to chrome, it’s only the complaint that it’s slippery when greasy, but unless the finish is damaged, you’ll never have to worry about corrosion.

Black oxide is harder to maintain and not as corrosion resistant, but it offers superior chip resistance. It also keeps a much sharper edge because it is much thinner than chrome, whereas chrome can round off at the edges. For this reason, black oxide is also used for impact tools. Black oxide tools should be oiled to prevent corrosion, so they’re a little higher maintenance, but some prefer black oxide because they’re easier to grip when greasy and not reflective, which is an advantage when working outdoors.

Like a paint job on a car, the wrench must be cleaned and prepped properly for any finish, because even the slightest imperfection will be visible. Chrome is especially susceptible to showing imperfections and a chrome plater must also know their chemistry and voltages, or the chrome may be discolored.

By design, some wrenches have a satin chrome finish versus bright chrome. The chrome is essentially the same and is just as protective, but the difference comes from the surface finish of the wrench prior to plating. Some prefer the satin finish as it, too, is easier to grip when greasy, and it is not reflective like bright chrome, which can prevent unwanted glare, especially when working outdoors.

So that’s the gist of it. How cool is the making of a wrench? Let’s see, we’ve got raw steel, red hot metal, forging, stamping, heat treating, science, technology, flames and chrome. Yup, it’s cool.

This article is reposted with permission of TechShop and Babcox Media (https://www.techshopmag.com/).

We highlight these differences below so you can properly build and maintain your socket collection for many decades of use.

6 Point vs. 12 Point Sockets

Six-point sockets (also called “single hex” sockets) have a hexagon-shaped opening with six points, or vertices, and six edges at 60-degree angles. These provide a tight fit on six-point fasteners, which makes the socket less likely to slip or round-off the fastener’s corners. This makes six-point sockets a great choice for stubborn fasteners that require a lot of force to remove.

12-point, or double hex, sockets are easier to connect to fasteners that are hidden, difficult to see or in tight spaces. Professionals will carry both six- and 12-point sockets in their toolboxes to handle all situations.

Drive Size

Located at the opposite end of the opening, the socket end drive is where the socket contacts the ratchet, extension or other accessories. The most popular drive sizes are 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4". Industrial-grade brands like Gray Tools offer drive sizes as large as 2 ½". Even though sockets are available in imperial and metric sizes, the drive size is always expressed in imperial units.

The drive end is often beveled to guide the ratchet into the socket. Four dented grooves help provide a secure connection with the retaining ball of the socket or extension. It is very important to ensure a good connection between sockets, ratchets and extensions to help prevent setbacks from the socket falling to the ground, dropping in an engine or other undesirable outcomes.

Wall Thickness

Not only does the socket wall display its size and part number, but it also contributes to the overall strength of the socket. Some sockets also have a knurl for easy removal, even with greasy hands.

Regular sockets are highly durable and offer the strength needed to handle industrial applications, such as heavy-duty machinery. Thin-walled sockets, on the other hand, are more popular for narrower, deeper spaces. As a result, they are used more in the automotive industry, but the drawback is they are not as strong as regular sockets.

Socket Finish

Sockets can be found in three different finishes:
1. Chrome Plated: This is the most popular finish in North America because these sockets are easy to clean and corrosion resistant. However, never use one of these if the chrome finish flakes off because it is very sharp. Many sockets come with a lifetime warranty and should be replaced if this happens.
2. Satin: The satin finish is typically less expensive than chrome and is very common outside of North America. Satin provides a slightly better grip and makes some imperfections less visible.
3. Black Oxide: A black oxide finish is usually only found on impact sockets. However, it’s important to never assume that a socket is an impact socket just because it has a black oxide finish. Black oxide sockets are easy to clean and typically less expensive than chrome. The size markings are highly visible on the black surface, especially if they are laser-etched, but may be more difficult to see in low light.

Material

Most sockets are made from alloyed steel, but manufacturers use different materials to enhance the hardness, strength and ductility of their sockets. Chromium-molybdenum (CRMO) and chromium-vanadium (CRV) are most often used, and there are strong opinions as to which is better.

A common perception is that sockets imported from Asia are made of CRV, since most of them have a CRV symbol stamped on them, while domestic manufacturers use CMO. However, the chemical composition is very similar, and both CRMO and CRV can make high-quality sockets. The difference in quality comes down to the manufacturing process and quality control.

Manufacturing Process

Although each manufacturer may use slightly different processes, below are the most important steps of making a socket:
1. Cutting Steel Bars: First, a steel bar is fed through a die and cut to the desired lengths, creating small cylindrical sections.
2. Hex Shape Formation: The cylindrical sections are cold formed in forging machines. Metal is shaped near room temperature to improve tensile strength, while allowing high levels of manipulation.
3. Cleaning and Machining: The sockets are tumbled through a washer/dryer system to remove lubricating oil. Machines then remove sharp edges and cut a bevel on the inner rim.
4. Stamping: Rolling stamps engrave information on the sockets. This includes the company name, part number, size and more.
5. Heat Treating: This process increases the hardness of the base material. The manufacturer specifies the required hardness and type of material, and then the appropriate heat treatment process is used to achieve the desired result. The amount of time a socket spends in the furnace depends on the required hardness and material used. This is followed by a rapid cooldown called “quenching,” in which the sockets are submerged in oil or another cooling medium. The quenching process is tightly controlled. The heating temperature, cooling method, cooling medium and cooling speed are all dependent on the type of material being quenched and the desired hardness. Generally, cooling is much faster than heating, since the desired result is to set the hardness as quickly as possible.
6. Shot Blasting: Next, sockets are typically sent into a chamber where they are blasted with fine steel particles to remove imperfections and to polish them. The chamber has a rotating belt, and steel shot is blasted at the parts as the belt rotates. This process takes about 10 to 15 minutes.

7. Rotobarrel: Sockets then go into a tub of ceramic stones and mild acid in a rotobarrel process to create a smooth finish prior to chrome adhesion. This takes about six hours per lot of sockets. The chemical recipe, as well as the quality and type of media, determines the quality of the finish. The rotobarrel process also helps remove inconsistencies, remaining dirt, burrs and rough spots off the surface of the socket. It results in a shinier product and cleaner surface to receive plating. Leaving a product too long in the rotobarrel can result in acid etching the surface, while removing it prematurely can result in a dull finish.
8. Wash and Rinse: Sockets are washed and rinsed as part of the electroplating process to prepare for chrome plating.
9. Chrome Plating: Some manufacturers, like Gray Tools, use a nickel chrome plating process. Nickel, which is the main protection against wear and corrosion, is deposited first. Chrome is then deposited over the nickel to provide added protection and a cosmetically pleasing finish. Each step in the plating process is precisely timed, and there may be many steps, depending on the product. If the surface isn’t properly prepared before this step, the chrome finish will appear unacceptable, or there will be poor adhesion. The chrome and nickel layers are only a few microns thick.
10. Rust Proofing: This is part of the electroplating process to ensure protection from rust.
11. Spinning: Part of the drying process during electroplating, the sockets are spun to remove excess rust. This is done differently among various manufacturers.

Identifying a High-Quality Socket

A person can often use sight and touch to help identify the difference between a high- and low-quality socket. Is the inside forging smooth and level? Does the socket feel solid in your hands? Pay attention to the exterior and interior finish to identify imperfections, such as chrome peeling or signs of rust. Also, the socket markings should be durable, so they don’t wear off easily.

Next, a high-quality socket opening should feature radiused corners to help prevent fastener round-off, and it should connect securely with ratchets and extensions. Finally, the brand is a good indicator of socket quality. Is it made by a reputable manufacturer known to stand behind its products?

Proper Maintenance

Even the highest quality sockets must be maintained and used properly in order to ensure many years of reliable service. Follow these simple steps to help get the most out of your socket collection:
1. Always use the exact size socket to match the fastener to prevent damage or injury.
2. Do not use metric sockets on imperial bolts, and vice-versa.
3. Do not use hand sockets on an impact gun.
4. Do not weld attachments on your sockets to improve leverage.
5. Do not store sockets in a moist environment.
6. Clean your sockets regularly.

More engineering has been put into sockets than most people realize. And, for such a simple tool, a lot of steps go into manufacturing them. But each step of the process plays an important role to provide you with a quality socket collection that should last a lifetime.

At its core, it is a system that allows users to complete instant visual audits of their tools and asset whereabouts. Tool Management System (T.M.S.) uses precision 3D CNC routed, robust, oil and solvent resistant, multi-coloured foam to provide a location for every tool or asset.

Each precision routed cut-out accommodates only the item it was designed for, meaning visual checks quickly confirm that all tools are accounted for and more importantly which ones are missing and have not yet been returned.

If the contrasting underlying color is visible, something has been misplaced.

Tool Management System is a flexible solution that can be applied to individual and group tool sets as foam trays inside a tool storage solution or as part of a shadow wallboard program in a tool crib.

In addition to protecting assets and enhancing inventory management the highly customizable nature of every T.M.S. project allows workplaces the ability to optimize workflows, organization, eliminate waste, redundancies, and improve efficiencies.

Take Control of Your Tools

The implementation of a Gray Tool Management System translates into quantifiable and measurable benefits for maintenance and management personnel within any organization:

Protection Against Foreign Object Damage (F.O.D.): F.O.D. occurs when misplaced or unaccounted for tools or assets are mistakenly left behind in an unexpected location. F.O.D. can cause potentially catastrophic situations and have serious financial consequences or cause expensive repairs and liability exposure.

Lean/5S Compliance: A cost effective method of achieving 5S and lean objectives which call for the elimination of clutter, standardization of work centres, continuous cleanliness standards, and operational sustainability. By eliminating excess tools and waste, storage needs and space requirements can be dramatically reduced.

Protection of Valuable Tooling & Assets: The permanently routered location for every item prevents objects from rolling or sliding, thus eliminating unexpected loss. Valuable assets are also protected against accidental damage especially when in transit, while also reducing unauthorized tool use and theft.

Better Inventory Control: Eliminating the annual and recurring costs associated with lost and misplaced tools can be significant. Mobile service technicians are especially vulnerable as they work in remote and unfamiliar surroundings. Scheduled asset audits can now be performed in minutes not hours ensuring they are completed accurately and on time.

Enhanced Employee Efficiencies/Increased Efficiency and Productivity: All team members, including new hires, can find and put tools away in the correct location faster. Establishing permanent standardized tool locations eliminates the time wasted by technicians searching for the right tool for a given project. T.M.S. installations allow tools to be stored in the most effective manner reflecting user workflows, tool sizes, and weights.

A Practical Cost & Time Savings Example

Below is a real-life example of how a team of 5 technicians, using a 10 drawer cabinet with 960 tools are positively impacted by a Gray T.M.S. implementation:

If search time is reduced by 60%, this translates into a time savings of nearly 8 hours or $236 per month in wages. A Gray T.M.S. pays for itself very quickly.

How Does the Process Work?

Identify Your Tools

Simply determine which tools are needed as part of your custom tool set, master tool kit or shadow wallboard project. Our comprehensive tool library contains precision 3D-CAD drawings, sizes and weights for over 3,000 products.

This extensive library greatly improves flexibility, speed, and delivery time for any project.

Determine Your Storage Needs

As unique as the tool list in every project, so are  your storage needs. Fortunately, we have a wide array of carrying cases, mobile tool chests, and toolboxes to support any working environment. Choose from over 60-storage solutions in our extensive library.

The Project Begins To Take Form

With tool list and storage parameters in hand, our design team begins evaluating and determining optimal tool adjacencies, space utilization, workflow, and efficiency.

Once complete the result is a full colour tool populated visual proof of your personally tailored tool management project.

Your Project Becomes Reality

Once the collaborative design process is finalized, the tool management system project goes into full production.

As a single source for your tool management project; tools, storage and foam organizers are shipped together. This single source supply model ensures you work with an organization with over 100-years of hand tool experience.

How is Our Tool Management Different? 

In addition to delivering a fully customized solution, a Gray tool management system is unique and unrivaled for many reasons:

• In-house design
• Precision routed foam substrate
• Cost-effective & quick
• Virtual project preview
• Chemical and solvent resistant foam
• Over 100 years of hand tool experience
• One stop for tools & storage

Who Can Benefit From a Tool Management System?

The simplicity, ease of implementation and cost effectiveness of a T.M.S. makes it a practical solution for organizations of any size.

Below are just a few of the industries where implementation of a T.M.S. system can have a tremendous positive impact: aerospace, defense, food production, electronics, institutional facilities, medical, pharmaceutical, manufacturing facilities, general MRO, mobile repair service providers, schools and training facilities, auto and heavy duty vehicle garages.

Father's day is the perfect opportunity to reflect on the enduring values and solid life principles our fathers instilled in us, and show your appreciation with a meaningful gift. Ideally, the gift will be put to use every day, instead of sitting in a drawer and lose its value the moment he opens it.

Those who like to work with their hands know quality tools can make for very special gifts.

We have carefully narrowed our assortment of over 7,000 tools down to four options that will surely “Wow” your dad, no matter your budget.

22 Piece SAE & Metric Combination Long Arm S2 Hex Key Set

Hex keys are probably the most commonly-used tools, and every dad could use a quality set. This is one of our best selling products, and for good reason: this set includes the most popular metric and imperial sizes, a convenient organizer and a t-handle holder for extra leverage to tackle stubborn jobs. All hex keys are made from S2 steel, delivering up to 33% more torque than regular hex keys.

LEARN MORE AT SHOPGRAYTOOLS.COM

2 Piece Hands Free Locking Plier Set

This innovative Grip-on locking plier set provides the typical functionality your dad will expect, with an added bonus: the included tool holder turns this set into a vice, for a hands-free operation. A vinyl storage pouch is also included.

LEARN MORE AT SHOPGRAYTOOLS.COM

1/2" Drive 13 Piece 6 Point "Limited Edition" SAE Chrome Socket Set

This set was manufactured in 2012, to celebrate our 100 years in business, and only a few are still available. Only 100 sets were manufactured; each set is serialized, and includes a personal “Thank you” card signed by Alex Gray.

LEARN MORE AT SHOPGRAYTOOLS.COM

Gray Tools Online Gift Cards

Can't decide? Then go for a gift card you'll be sure to get it right. Gray Tools online gift cards are redeemable towards any product listed at ShopGrayTools.com, including limited time offers and clearance items. Our gift cards never expire and carry no fees.

LEARN MORE AT SHOPGRAYTOOLS.COM

Regardless of your choice, each of these gift suggestions will allow your dad to benefit from our lifetime warranty promise, and industry-leading support. Because your dad deserves the best!

We, at Gray Tools, decided it was time for a change many years ago. Since then, we have initiated a series of changes to the business to reduce its environmental footprint. Below are just a few examples of the steps taken to reduce the waste and contribute to a better world.

The Paperless Office

Long gone are the days of intensive paper use and associated waste; the evolution of technology has assisted companies in going green.

In our office, a digital document handling process was adopted in 2000. This process eliminated the printing of faxes and other documents, reducing paper consumption and toner waste.

Remember those big, ugly, steel filing cabinets that took up too much space in offices? Thankfully, this system allowed those clunky contraptions to be thrown away and replaced with a digital document filing and storage system.

Additionally we converted to an electronic mailing system, which reduced the need to print and mail documentation by 90+%. Reducing physical mailings has reduced paper and envelope usage and saved countless trees and green space.

In the warehouse, Gray Tools introduced a paperless warehousing system in 2000 and reduced the need for printed-paper by 95+%. Orders are now fully picked and packed using digital technology.

More recently in 2017, we revamped Retailer Connect, an online portal that allows distributors to check stock and place orders online, thus reducing paper-based ordering.

Reduced Energy Consumption

Addressing energy consumption has been another important initiative for our company.

All lighting in the Brampton, Ontario office, plant, and warehouse was upgraded to brighter more energy efficient hardware. Improved visibility and working environment, along with reduced energy consumption has been a win-win for the environment and us.

Next, Gray Tools made significant investments, improvements, and changes in the company’s manufacturing processes which have resulted in reductions in energy and water consumption.

These changes mean fewer emissions, lower energy consumption, and improved protection of water, a limited natural resource.

Less Pollution

We have also made many changes in our office and to the shipping processes to reduce our rate of pollution.

In the office, the product development team is mandated to source minimal packaging for our products, thus reducing the need to dispose of plastics, metal components and other materials once the product is purchased.

For decades our shipping process has involved reusing carton boxes packed with used newspaper for as many orders as possible. Using old newspaper, which is biodegradable and fully recyclable, eliminates the need for air-pillows, foam chips or other fillers. Moreover, Gray has developed solid expertise in drop shipping products to the final end user, upon request, in order to improve delivery time and minimizing environmental impact.

Gray Tools is committed to being environmentally conscious and developing processes that limit pollution and emissions as well as, where possible, reducing or eliminating materials in our production process that are not environmentally friendly. Gray Tools is in full compliance to all municipal, provincial, federal and international standards regarding pollution controls, reduction of toxic substances, use of “conflict minerals” and all other required legislation.  Regular independent testing of wastewater and air emissions is performed at Gray Tools to insure continued compliance.

Finally, the objective to reduce the company’s pollution rates is encouraged across the company and all employees are expected and empowered to do their part in reducing our environmental footprint.

For example, the Gray sales force is constantly encouraged to use digital technology, such us online meetings, to service our customers more efficiently, thus reducing the need for driving long distances.

Smart, Eco-Friendly Manufacturing Process

At Gray several initiatives have been undertaken in the past few years to improve our production processes and make them more energy and environmental friendly.

After 50 years of performing in house plating services, we made the difficult decision to decommission our in house plating lines and sub contract the service to local vendors who had superior closed loop waste water filtration systems. 

While this was a difficult decision for Gray Tools, who had always maintained the highest standard of waste water filtration and emission controls in house, we felt that it was more environmentally responsible to subcontract our plating processes to local processors with very sophisticated air and water filtration systems in order to minimize the environmental impact of our plating process.

We have also implemented new production methods in several areas to implement production processes that limit emissions and reduce energy consumption.  We have reduced the amount of product that goes through both our swaging and hot broach processes as these processes generate some emissions and are very energy intensive.  These processes have been replaced with cleaner, more energy efficient and higher quality CNC machining processes resulting in a product that is not only superior in performance and quality but also more energy efficient and producing less emissions.

We regularly monitor our supply chain to insure that our vendors are maintaining compliance with all required domestic and international environmental regulations both in their production processes as well as in the materials they are using.

Gray Tools has in house air filtration in areas where particulate is generated from the production process. This both keeps our employees safe and maintains good air quality reducing emission to the environment.

We have a strict chemical disposal process to insure all chemicals used in the production process are disposed of by approved vendors who use the most up to date methods to safely dispose of any waste generated at Gray Tools. Disposal of all chemicals from Gray is reported to the government on a regular basis.

Finally, Gray has a robust recycling program whereby any steel scrap generated in the production process or any material that is returned for warranty from our customers is returned to approved recycling vendors.

The "green" philosophy is deeply embedded in our company's DNA. Just like our tools, we operate on solid principles to ensure future generations will have a great place to live and work.

One of the first tools developed by humankind, the pry bar has been established as a versatile and necessary tool. Over time, many variations of the pry bar have been developed; now there is a plethora of styles and options on the market.

How does one select the right pry bar for the task at hand? Let’s begin by defining what a pry bar is.

What is a Pry Bar?

A pry bar is a tool typically made from forged alloy steel that may have a flattened end, a claw, or pointed end.

The tool is quite versatile because the flattened end allows it to be used as a lever, the claw makes leverage easier, the pointed end is ideal for ‘mating holes’, and an end featuring a small crevice is used for removing nails.

Pry bars may be heat-treated and/or tempered before being coated to resist rusting.

It is important to note that the length of the pry bar is important. The golden rule is the heavier the object to be lifted, the longer the bar needs to be.

The pry bar has also been referred to by many different names, so don’t be confused if someone calls the tool a ‘jimmy’, crowbar, wrecking bar, gooseneck, ‘cat’s paw’, pinch bar – or as Shakespeare referred to it, an iron crow.

Manufacturing Process

Pry bars are commonly made from carbon or alloy steel, depending on the style and manufacturer.

There are a variety of manufacturing methods used to produce a pry bar, including: swagging, hot stamping and machining. They then go through finishing steps, which may include stamping, polishing, heat treatment, shot blast, hand sharpening, and plating or painting. Pry bars that are heat treated are very strong and flexible to avoid breaking while in use.

While shopping around for your next pry bar, consider looking for a tool that is produced using the heat treatment process. The finish is also important to consider as it acts as a protective layer and increases the durability of the tool.

Some manufacturers pride themselves on hand polishing and sharpening the pry bars for a high quality finish; this is a positive that you may want to keep an eye out for. The finish commonly involves either a nickel strike finish or enamel tool paint and lacquer finish – both can be very durable and add to the high quality tool.

Parts of a Pry Bar

There are many variations in design, below are the various features of a pry bar and some tips on the benefits of different styles.

Shaft: comes in a variety of shapes and designs, each with its own benefits. A rounded shaft makes is easy to hold while a flat shaft is better for tighter spaces. Contour shaft curves back to increase leverage; hexagonal shaft has six sides for better grip and is great for levering. Finally, an I-beam shaft is lighter but very strong

Claw: just like the shaft, the claw design can vary depending on the type of pry bar and its functionality. A straight claw is a common feature for most bars, it is forged in line with the shaft. Bent claw increases leverage and decreases damage to the work piece. Beveled claw makes it easier to get beneath and between items. Flat claw increases leverage as it can be inserted deeper in tight spaces. Wide claw offers a larger surface area for prying.

Nail slot is a feature that makes removing a nail easier. An adjustable claw is very versatile as the angle of the claw can be adjusted and locked in place.

Tip: a pry bar may feature a second claw or it could have a pointed tip. The pointed tip is ideal for locating and aligning ‘mating holes’.

Heel: can be flat or rounded. A flat heal can be used as a striking surface; a rounded heal increases leverage as it helps the claw rock back and forth

Handle: a pry bar may feature a handle on one end for a more comfortable grip.

Popular Types of Pry Bars

Next are the more popular types of pry bars. Keep in mind your needs and uses for the pry bar when selecting the right one for you.

Rolling Head Pry Bar: features the standard round shaft, pointed tip, and bent claw. Applications include simple prying, lifting and leveraging, locating and aligning applications.

Wonder Bar (Nail Puller): features a flat shaft, a right angle claw and one offset claw. The wonder bar is used when precision and control is needed for nail pulling, lifting, scraping, prying and levering. Ideal for a variety of house maintenance, construction, and demolition tasks.

Pinch Bar: features a round or hexagonal shaft, one chisel end and a pointed tip end. This is the longest and second heaviest pry bar manufactured. The pinch bar can be used to align mating holes, such as boltholes, by prying the holes into alignment. Secondary purpose would be levering and lifting objects.

Wrecking Bar: features a hexagonal shank, flat end claw and may also incorporate a goose neck claw. This pry bar design is used in heavy-duty prying applications and demolition work.

Railroad Track Pry Bar: features hexagonal shaft, a 45-degree claw end, and a pointed tip. As the name suggests, this pry bar ideal for railway track maintenance.

Adjustable Pry Bar: features an adjustable claw and may include an extendable shaft. A pry bar with an extendable shaft is the heaviest pry bar you can buy. Applications include more complex prying (i.e. in difficult, confined spaces or more tightly fastened objects), and levering and lifting larger items such as doors and floorboards.

Selecting a Pry Bar-Three Things to Consider 

When selecting a pry bar, keep in mind the following points.

1. Budget. While the adjustable pry bar is great in tight spaces, the bar tends to be the more expensive and heavier option. Its pivoting joint can also be a weak point when used to leverage heavy objects. A fixed pry bar is a cheaper option and the lighter weight makes it easier to carry with you.
2. Quality. Some manufacturers will sacrifice quality to offer the tool at a cheaper price. Be wary of a price that seems too good to be true – the last thing you want happening is the bar bending or snapping right when you need it. Gray Tools Canada prides itself on manufacturing high quality Canadian pry bars. The bars are made from the best quality alloy steel, they are heating treated to increase toughness, nickel plated to increase durability and protect against corrosion, and have the benefit of being hand polished.
3. Your Needs. There are many pry bar options on the market for you to consider, first narrow down the features that meet your needs. Needs first, price second.

How to Properly Operate a Pry Bar

Before using a pry bar, it is first important to understand the proper way to use the tool to ensure your own physical safety.

To begin, check your tool and ensure the tool is not damaged or bent, using a damaged tool could increase the risk of breaking the tool and hurting yourself.

Next, be aware of your environment and check for factors that may create risk for you or others, for example physical hazards that could cause you to slip.

The grip on the pry bar is important, therefore wearing gloves that are dry and have grip material on the palms would be useful.

Further safety practices include wearing eye protection and a hard hat, especially important while prying items apart or pulling nails in case an item breaks off and flies towards you.

Never place an object under the shaft of the pry bar to in order generate additional leverage. Doing this manner creates a pressure fulcrum that places stress on the shaft of the pry bar resulting in a very unsafe user environment.

Finally, your posture while using the tool is critical for your physical well-being, especially if you are lifting heavier objects. Ensure your position is balanced: stand facing the bar with your legs shoulder-width apart and slightly bent, do not position your body directly over the bar, and grip the pry bar tightly with both hands.

If you have to bend to use the pry bar, for example while levering a heavy object, ensure that you bend at the knees while keeping your back straight to avoid injuring your back and hamstrings. If the item is too heavy or too large, make sure you ask for help before using the pry bar alone.

Pry Bar Maintenance and Care

Maintenance and care is important to remember to increase the longevity of the tool. Here are some tips to get the most out of your pry bar.

1. File the claws regularly to keep them sharp and ready for use, but make sure you don’t remove too much of the protective finish.
2. Using non-corrosive oil on the bar will protect the bar from the elements. Good to use the oil after filing or when you notice the bar has become dirty.
3. Do not strain the shaft of the bar by applying excessive force. Remember the golden rule, the heavier the object to be lifted, the longer the bar needs to be.
4. Dry the bars after getting it wet and store it in a dry space to ward against corrosion.

Remember, a good quality pry bar will bend slowly when it is stressed beyond its design capacity. A poor quality bar will snap unexpectedly creating a potentially dangerous situation.

Five Rules for Organizing Your Tools

Tool organization starts with the type of storage you use. If you are just starting out and do not have any storage for your tools, the first step is to decide on the type of tool storage best suits your needs.

Top chests and roller cabinets are very common tool storage options for workshops, garages and industrial settings, where the need to move tools offsite is minimal. With this setup, you will have many drawers to accommodate your entire tool collection. This is beneficial, however it comes with a great need for organization.

Stackable cases, canvas totes, rolling cases, and portable boxes are mainly used by professionals who need to carry their tools around and work remotely on location. These are also great options for those who lack space to accommodate a rolling cabinet, or simply do not own enough tools to justify one.

Before we explore the various options to unclutter your toolbox, make sure you follow some basic organization principles:

Separate tools by type and/or function, and group them together for easy access. Usually roller cabinets and top chests come with narrow drawers that can be used to group tools from the same family together, such as ratchets, files, and pliers.

Label everything. Many tool storage options have dedicated label holders. Labeling provides a quick visual guide of where the tool you need is located before you have to open any drawer or lid.

Get rid of any tool that is no longer safe to use. Tool reorganization is the perfect time to inventory your tool collection, and remove any worn out tools, tools with missing parts, or one that can simply no longer perform the job it was designed to.

Plan your storage according to the size and shape of your tools, as well as frequency of use. Heavier and bulkier tools should be placed in the bottom drawer of the roller cabinet, which is usually deeper. Moreover, having the tools you use frequently grouped together and easily accessible saves you a lot of time when working.

Keep spare tools in separate boxes. Almost any professional will end up with duplicate tools. These extra tools should be kept in a separate location and used only when the original is lost or no longer functioning.

Tool Organization Solutions

Drawer liners are suitable for roller cabinets and top chests and prevent the tools from rolling inside the toolbox. They also limit the amount of grease and grime reaching the bottom of the drawer, and prevent the tools from scratching or damaging the drawer.

These are especially suitable for long tools such as speeders and extensions that are otherwise difficult or place in organizers and racks. That being said, other tools such as wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers can be securely held in place, by a good drawer liner that has just the right amount of tackiness.

A good drawer liner is thick enough to act as a cushion for your tools, easy to clean, with some offering enhanced protection against corrosion.


Small parts organizers are suitable for all tool storage options and as stand-alone units. They are used to hold and organize small parts, components and tools, such as nuts and bolts, washers, crowfoot wrenches, and small sockets. These organizers come in a variety of shapes and sizes, usually adjustable to accommodate a variety of tool shapes and sizes. They are usually made of plastic, which makes them light and easy to move around, and provide an area for labeling. Some organizers feature an interlocking mechanism to secure them in place.

Individual tool organizers are suitable for all types of tool storage and come in handy when having to organize tools that come in many sizes and styles such as sockets, wrenches, and pliers.

Most popular organizers include rails (used mostly for sockets), trays, racks and holders. Each system has its advantages and disadvantages; the perfect one is the one that best suits the tools you own.

When choosing a tool organizer, make sure the model you plan to buy can actually accommodate the tools you have. For example, some socket organizers cannot accommodate all sockets, and you will be left with a few that need to be placed somewhere else, which defeats the purpose of organization.

Product packaging: when deciding for your next tool set, pay particular attention at how it comes packaged. In some cases, product packaging is designed to offer a viable storage and organization option.

Many socket sets come in blow mold cases with removable lids, designed to fit nicely in the toolbox without the need for extra organizers. Other manufacturers include socket rails (metal or plastic) with every socket set.

Many wrench sets come with rails or plastic holders included, while pliers and screwdrivers sets may also include storage racks to keep the products neat and organized.

Premium sets offer another convenient solution to store tools in foam cut-outs, ready to be placed directly inside the toolbox.

While tool organizers are great bonuses, they are specifically designed to hold only the sizes and shapes included in that set. If you are looking for organizers that are universal and can accommodate many sizes and shapes, product packaging is not a good option.

Custom foam organizers are the latest trend in tool organization, embraced by many professionals and corporations for good reasons.

First, foam cut-outs can accommodate many different types of tools, which come in handy when you have tools that are used more frequently, or a group of tools used for a particular jobs. Instead of opening many drawers to gather tools, the foam organizers can hold all the tools in one drawer.

Second, foam organizers are made using 3D design and multiple layers of high-density foam in contrasting colours (the bottom layer being a bright color such as light blue, red or orange), making it easy to identify missing tools. The light colour acts as a visual indicator so you can spot missing tools quickly. This is particularly important if you are working in a FOD or 5S environment, where keeping track of your tools is mandatory.

Lastly, foam organizers are precisely created using CNC routers to provide a tight fit for each tool, keeping them neatly organized. This allows you to grab the right tool fast, and return it in to the same spot when you finish the job. That way you can work more efficiently, without pulling all drawers to look for the tool you need.

Keeping your tools organized is the first step in a productive career. While the options above are able to solve most professionals’ needs, the best method is that one that works for you and your tools.

Many tools in a tradesperson's toolbox are designed to “take a beating; hammers by definition belong in this category.

The history of the hammer dates back to ancient times. The Romans, who invented the forged iron nail, used the claw hammer as a dual-purpose tool for pulling and pounding nails. A simple tool by design, a hammer consists of two basic components: the handle and the head.  

The quality of the material used for these components, and the proper head-to-handle weight distribution, make the difference between a quality striking tool and one that can pose a user safety risk.

When selecting the right hammer for any given application it is important to pay attention to the following:

Head

The head is the component exposed to impact; hence its importance in the durability and overall quality of the hammer.

The quality of material used to make the head is an important factor in producing a head that will withstand many years of repetitive use. For heads made of metal, achieving the correct hardness through a process called heat treatment is also very important; a head that is too hard will be brittle and chip easily. A head that is too soft will dent and deform easily.

Hammers of the same type are offered in a variety of head weights (usually expressed in ounces, pounds, or grams). For example, a ball pein hammer can range in head weight from 4 to 48 oz. Lighter hammers are used for tasks that require more finesse, precision and control, while heavier heads are employed when more force is required.

Most hammerheads are made of steel, which provides the required durability and impact resistance. Speciality hammers are made of various materials, such as plastic (soft face hammers), titanium (weight reduction), stainless steel (to avoid object contamination) or brass (to avoid sparks), depending on the hammer style and application.

Head functionality, although not always obvious to the untrained eye, are designed to accomplish much more than the basic task of driving a hammer into an object. Additional functionalities include the ability to pull or hold nails, pry wood boards apart, or shaping metal.

Handle

The handle is the component which connects the user to the tool. It greatly influences user comfort, while also playing a key role in the tool's overall strength, durability, and function. The most popular materials used are wood and fibreglass.

Wood is the traditional material used in handle construction. When you think of a hammer, you typically picture a steel head and wooden handle. Wood has two major advantages over fibreglass.

First, wood is able to absorb shock very well, which makes it is more comfortable to operate. Second, professionals agree that hammers with wooden handles are better balanced than fibreglass ones allowing for smoother swings.

On the downside wood will eventually rot, warp, break, shrink and become loose, especially if not maintained properly.

Fibreglass handles have become the new trend in hammer construction, to the point where some manufacturers have stopped offering wooden handled hammers. The main benefit of fibreglass handles is durability; the handle will not shrink, warp or rot, and is almost impossible to break.

The main disadvantage of this type of handle is the shock absorbing capabilities, which are not on par with its wooden counterpart. Although many manufacturers have implemented anti-vibration technologies for better shock absorption, wooden handles are still considered superior in this regard.

Regardless of the handle style, a quality hammer is properly balanced, with proper weight distribution between the head and the handle to allow smooth, effortless, and repetitive swings with very little effort.

Handles are typically connected to the head in one of three ways; mechanically, chemically or a single unified piece. Mechanical bonding means a physical component such as wedge or fastener are used to fasten the two components. In a chemically bonded hammer the handle and head are fastened solely with the use of resins such as epoxy. A single piece hammer does not have bond but is rather made from a single piece of metal, where the handle and head are seamlessly unified. In some rare exceptions, particularly in sledgehammers, manufacturers may use a double method of mechanical and chemical bonding to achieve a superior and unique connection.

The length and shape of the handle play an important role in the function of any striking tool. The longer the handle the larger the force generated for strikes. Conversely, the longer the handle the less control the user has. Handles can also future grips of various shapes, sizes and materials all designed to improve grip, increase comfort or dampen vibration.

Types of Hammers

Claw hammers - as the name suggests, feature a claw at one end for pulling nails, and a striking face at the other end to drive nails typically into wood. The forged bevel allows the claw to slip under the nail for easy removal. Some models feature a dual bevel, the second bevel providing a secure grip of nails of various sizes.

The edge of the striking face is also beveled to avoid chipping during off-centre strikes. The striking face is smooth and slightly domed to avoid marring of the work surface and correct off-centre strikes.

Claw hammers are usually lightweight, with head weights ranging between 10 to 16 oz, tailoring them to the size of nail to be driven or project being completed.

Framing hammer - although similar in appearance to the claw hammer, this hammer has some distinctive features that make it suitable for the demands of framing.

A framing hammer provides more force than accuracy. The head is heavier than the typical claw hammer, averaging 20 to 25 oz and the handle is longer, helping to drive nails with fewer strikes. The striking face is waffled, helping to prevent accidentally bending of nails. The claw end of a framing hammer is straighter than claw hammers, ideal for prying wood boards apart. The head features a grove and/or magnet for nail setting, which allows users to drive nails with one hand.

Ball pein hammers - also known as machinist hammers, are using in metalworking to mould sheets of metal in various shapes and directions. The head features one hemispherical end for metalworking and one flat face for driving nails. The head weight ranges from 4 to 48 oz, depending on the application. The flat end is used for driving nails, punches and chisels, or setting rivets, while the ball end is used for shaping metal.

Rubber mallet - is a must have tool in any shop. In the event damage to the work piece is a concern, the use of a hammerhead made of moulded rubber helps. Rubber mallets are used in outdoor projects such as interlocking installation, since the head does not cause damage to the interlocking piece, and light tapping sets them in place. Rubber mallets are lighter and more versatile than claw and ball pein hammers and typically have a large round striking faces.

Sledge Hammers - is much heavier and bulkier than your typical hammer, and not often used outside construction and demolition applications. Typical uses include concrete slab removals, stake driving, and various demolition jobs. Always wear protective gear and allow for adequate clearance when swinging a sledgehammer. Due to the long handle and heavy head, overstrikes are commonplace. Repeated overstrikes can pose a workplace danger as strikes to the handle and head can lead to injuries.

Soft Face hammer - another type of hammer to use when non-marring is important, such as cabinetry and other fine woodworking work. Soft face hammers feature tips made of plastic or rubber, nylon and other soft compounds and are replaceable. You can buy a kit of replacement tips that includes ends of different hardnesses, suitable for a wide variety of applications.

Specialty Hammers - these hammers are uniquely designed to tackle specialised jobs. Specialty hammers include mason’s hammer (designed to cut and set bricks), drywall hammer (for cutting and installing drywall), upholster or tack hammer (designed for driving tacks in upholstery work).

How to Properly Use a Hammer

Given its basic design and widespread use, the untrained might think that using a hammer means pounding at the piece until the work is done. This “beginner technique” often leads to unnecessary damage, a tired arm, and serious injury. Professionals are able to select and use the correct hammer for the task, and using it repetitively without tiring their arm.

The following procedure should lead to a quality “hammering” job:

• Get a good and secure grip on the handle. For jobs that require precision and control, grip the handle closer to the hammerhead; for tasks that require more force, grip near its end.
• Let the weight of the hammer do all the work; with the properly selected hammer there is no need to apply your own force to perform the task.
• Swing from your elbow for power, and from your wrist for control.
• Focus on the piece being hammered, not the tool.
• Ensure the hammer face is always parallel to the surface being hit.
• Use repetitive, smooth blows; avoid sideways or glancing blows that can damage the surface being hit or the piece being driven in.

Safety Precautions When Using a Hammer

A hammer can become a very dangerous tool if not used properly. Follow the tips below to avoid injury to yourself and people around you:

• Use the right hammer for the job. Take the time to understand the different features of each model, head weight, or ask for professional advice related to your application.
• Select a hammer with a striking face diameter approximately 12 mm (0.5 inches) larger than the face of the object being struck (e.g., nail, chisels, punches, wedges, etc.).
• Always keep the striking face parallel to the surface being struck. Avoid side or glancing blows.
• Never use a hammer with a broken or loose handle. The head might detach from the handle causing injury.
• Never use a hammer with a damaged head, as it can damage the piece being worked on and cause injury.
• Always wear protection equipment (safety glasses, gloves, or face shield) when using a hammer.

How to Drive a Nail

• Grip the hammer in the middle of the handle, and hold the nail near the top between the thumb and forefinger of the hand not holding the hammer. If the nail is too small, use a piece of cardboard to hold it, while you hold the cardboard.
• Tapping the nail lightly until it has sunk enough to stand on its own.
• Using the centre of the hammer face, drive the nail in with smooth blows. Let the weight of the hammer do the work. The striking face should always be parallel with the surface being hit.
• When drilling nails into some hardwoods, it’s good practice to drill a pilot hole before you start hammering the nail. This method makes hammering easier and prevents wood from splitting.

In an ideal world, we all want to tackle our projects using the best tools available. There are brands in each tool category that have built a reputation of quality and dependability among professional users. These are the brands we want to own.

In reality, our desire to own the best goes against a limited budget, regardless if it’s our personal budget or the company allowance.

Since the tool wish list is usually long, the purchase decision comes down to finding a comfortable balance between perceived quality and price. Many product options are available between these two reference points. Most often, our decision falls somewhere in between choosing the most expensive option that might not fit the budget, and the cheapest one, which is probably going to cost time and money in the end.

What Makes a Quality Tool?

Assessing a tool’s quality is specific to each category. Opinions on what makes a top quality tool often differ from person to person. You will have to narrow down your trusted brands based on your personal experience, application requirements, and overall satisfaction with using and owning the tool.

Although judging quality is subjective, there are some common denominators:

• A tool that incorporates the design, ergonomics and functionality to perform the job it’s designed without compromise
• A tool that provides long, dependable service without major or frequent failures
• A tool that is easy to maintain and service, and backed by spare parts and repair service if applicable
• A tool backed by reputable tool company that stand behind its products

6 Strategies to Save Money on Your Favourite Tools

Here are some strategies that will allow you to stretch your tool budget and fill your toolbox with quality tools.

Wait for a sale - most tool brands put their products on sale at different times. Once you decide on the tool you would like to purchase, it is just a matter of waiting for the opportunity to buy it when it is on sale. Major shopping events such as Black Friday, Cyber Monday, Father's Day, Christmas, and Boxing days are good opportunities to acquire the tool you've always wanted.

It’s a good idea to subscribe to the brand’s newsletter, to be the first to be notified when the next sales promotion takes place. There are also apps and alerts you can set on various devices that will inform you of the lowest price for the tool you want.

Join the brand’s loyalty program - brands love loyal customers, and employ creative strategies to encourage repeat purchases. A loyalty program (or “club” as some brands call it) does just that, by offering incentives to repeat customers. These incentives include awarding points for purchases, which in turn can be redeemed for discounts, money-off coupons, and other exclusive and limited time offers. With the product performance being similar among competing brands, an aggressive loyalty program might tip the balance one way or another, and help you save on your favourite tool brand.

Being brand loyal is also beneficial from a practical perspective: you become familiar with the strengths and weaknesses of the brand thus knowing what to look for and what to avoid, and deal with a single company for warranty and service.

Plan ahead - tools are typically a long-term investment; for this reason you should avoid impulse buys at all costs. Planning your next purchase carefully will most certainly save you money. Firstly, it will give you time to do proper research, and learn the features you should be looking for, and things to avoid. In addition, each broad line tool manufacturer has its strengths and weaknesses, meaning your favourite tool brand might not be the best option for that particular tool.

Once you narrow down your options, planning allows you to wait for a better price on that particular tool. Shopping events such as Black Friday, Cyber Monday, Christmas and Boxing Day offer good savings opportunities. You can also check specific retailer’s sales events such as Prime day (Amazon), Tool Events (Home Depot and Lowe's) and brand specific initiatives.

Take advantage of an introductory offer or a product bundle - as noted above, customer retention is an important strategy for many tools brands. Having new customers try the brand is also crucial. For this reason, tool brands have programs in place to attract those who need an extra incentive to purchase. One such method is to offer an initial discount (percentage or money off) for an initial purchase. Anther commonly used product tactic is to offer lost leaders (product offered at a lower, introductory pricing), or product bundles, at prices lower than the sum of individual tools included in the kit. The downside of purchasing a bundle is that you might end up with some tools you don’t really need, so you have to assess your options carefully.

Check out the perks offered by professional associations in your field - if you belong to a regulated trade, professional association, or union, option worth exploring. Various trade associations have negotiated deals with tool manufacturers for exclusive member rewards.

The benefits are mutual: the tool brand benefits from exposure to a targeted audience and the members get more value for their membership. Finally, the association is able to put forward a more attractive package to attract new members, and retain the existing ones. Of course, you should not join an association just for the discounts, but if you are already a member why not make the most of your membership?

Think about Your Tool Usage - another strategy to save money is to avoid buying tools you don’t really need. We all have tools we use daily, and the ones that are almost in pristine condition. While you are planning the next purchase, ask yourself some questions about the tool you are planning to buy:

How often are you going to use the tool?

Can the same task be accomplished with tools you already have?

Is it most cost effective to rent the tool than purchasing it upfront?

Depending on your answers, you might be able to save your money or re-allocate your budget to purchasing tools you really need.

You will probably find yourself using a combination of these strategies to ensure your toolbox is filled with quality tools that reflect your work. With a little bit of planning and research you don’t have to compromise on your next tool purchase.

Selecting the right tool for the job can make a huge difference in productivity and quality of work. There are certain tools whose proper selection and use go beyond making your job faster and easier and actually affect workplace safety.

Eye bolts are such tools. For this reason, selecting and using eye bolts correctly can make the difference between a safe work environment and one that puts people’s lives at risk. 

What Are Eye Bolts?

One of the most commonly used pieces of hardware in material handling, an eye bolt has a simple design, consisting of a threaded shank with a ring/eye at one end. Eye bolts are threaded to structures such as wood or steel posts and often supported by a nut. They are designed to have a rope or cable fed through the ring in order to lift objects.

The ring can be drop forged (one single piece, the eye being entirely closed) or bent to form a loop. Bent eye bolts should only be used in light duty applications and should never be used to execute angular lifts.

Eye bolts are available in two forms: rated and unrated. Rated eye bolts have been independently laboratory certified to ensure with performance and mechanical property compliance against a governing standard such as ASME and ASTM. Rated eye bolts provide users with peace of mind that quality and stated rated lifting capacities are as assured as possible.

Unrated eyebolts are, as the name implies, tools that have NOT been tested to ensure compliance against any governing standards. These eyebolts are generally less expensive and ideal for use in low load applications.

Types and Styles of Eye Bolts

The most common types of eye bolts used in industrial applications are: nut eye bolts, machinery eye bolts and screw eye bolts. All three types come in two styles: plain and shoulder. Each type comes in different sizes and finishes.

A regular nut eye bolt, also known as a plain pattern eye bolt, should not be used when applying angular loads as this procedure can bend or break them.

A shoulder nut eye bolt can be used when applying angular loads, while keeping in mind the rated capacity is drastically reduced when loading at any angle. When a shoulder pattern-lifting eye is properly seated in the receiving hole, the shoulder bears against the seat and reduces bending stress on the shank.

In theory, plain pattern and shoulder pattern-lifting eyes are equally suitable for vertical lifts. However, since there is no guarantee that a load will never be subjected to an angular lift; shoulder pattern lifting eyes are recommended for use wherever possible.

An angular lift places additional stresses on a lifting eye, above that of the load to be hoisted. For this reason angular lifts should be avoided whenever possible.

If, however, the situation necessitates an angular lift, a properly selected and inserted lifting eye must be used, and a reduction in the rated capacity must be applied. For information on how to compute these reduced rated capacities, consult the lifting eye bolt manufacturer.

A lag eye bolt features a screw thread and is used for threading into wood or lag anchors.

A machinery eye bolt does is not secured with a nut; instead it is designed to be installed into tapped holes. The minimum depth of the tap is obtained with the following formula:

Minimum tap depth = basic shank length + half the nominal eyebolt diameter.

Eye Bolt Materials

Eye bolts are made of various materials; the most common being carbon, stainless and alloy steel.

Stainless steel eye bolts are essentially rust proof, due to steel composition that includes iron, chromium, manganese, silicon, nickel, molybdenum, and only very small amounts of carbon.

For this reason stainless steel eye bolts will endure longer in marine applications. Moreover, the smooth appearance makes this type of eye bolt suitable in architectural applications, and a popular choice in pharmaceutical and food processing industries, due to lack of peeling and flaking.

Alloy steel eye bolts are ideal for cold weather applications. Lifting projects occurring in temperatures below -1°C (30.2° F) should be completed using an alloy steel eye bolt. The metallurgical properties of the alloy steel allows to maintenance of the structural integrity and performance even in cold environments.

Galvanized steel eye bolts are created by dipping standard carbon steel into molten zinc by a process called hot dipping, which results in an additional layer that protects against corrosion. For this reason, galvanized eye bolts are ideal for outdoor application as they are further resistant to the elements. However, the finish on the galvanized eye bolts is rough and can flake or peel; for a superior finish choose stainless steel eye bolts.

Eye Bolt Markings

Since eye bolts play an important role in the overall workplace safety chain, paying close attention and understanding various markings and specifications listed under each size is of paramount importance.

The image below shows the common ones you may come across in manufacturer’s catalogues or at the point of sale: 

• Shank diameter (thread) is typically forged or permanently stamped on the eye, and gives you the size of the eye bolt. (A) 
• Forge code marking allow eye bolt traceability to raw material
• Interior eye diameter (C)
• Exterior eye diameter (D)
• Overall length (E)
• Overall weight
• Rated Capacity-the rated capacity refers to the load a single eye bolt can lift when the load is applied through the shank of the eye bolt.

Quality Checklist

Below are important elements you should take into account before buying eye bolts for next project:

• Is it made from bar quality fine grain C1030 / C1035 steel bar
• Has it been normalized prior to machining
• Has it been proof tested in accordance with ASTM A489 and Federal Spec. ANSI B18.15
• Is ASTM A489 test data available from the manufacturer should you need it

Rated Capacity & Angular Lifts

As mentioned previously eye bolts are available in various sizes. The reason for this is to safely accommodate various loads/weights to be lifted.

The safe load of an eye bolt is designed to lift is called the Rated Capacity or Rated Working Load. Rated capacity refers to the load a single eye bolt can lift when the load is applied through the shank of the eye bolt.

A standard lift applied through the shank of the eye bolt is when the load is pulled completely vertically or perpendicular to the shank of the eye bolt. This type of list is also referred to as a 0° lift.

As soon as a lift begins to occur at any other angle, referred to as angular lift, the rated capacity of the eye bolt begins to diminish. The greater the angle the more drastically the rated capacity is reduced. The chart below shows the impact the direction of pull has on rated capacity:

Direction of Pull Rated Capacity
5 degrees 100% of rated working load
15 degrees 80% of rated working load
30 degrees 65% of rated working load
45 degrees 30% of rated working load
46+ degrees Not recommended

Additional tips and guidelines:
• Always use a shoulder eyebolt when performing angular lifts.
• Angular lifting using plain pattern eye bolts is not recommended.
• The marking on the eye bolts represent the thread size, not necessarily their rated capacities.
• Always check the manufacturer’s specification for rated capacity before conducting any lift.
• Angular lifts greater than 45° from the shank centreline is not recommended.
• When more than one eye bolt is used to lift an evenly distributed load the capacity is reduced on each eye bolt, based on the angle of the load.

Eye Bolt Installation and Maintenance

Just as important as choosing the correct eye bolt, properly installing and maintaining it is just as critical to ensuring workplace safety.

Installation Guidelines and Tips:

• The receiving hole should be counter-sunk and be free and clear of any debris to assure proper seating.
• Always inspect and clean the eye bolt threads and the hole before using.
• Loads should always be aligned to the plane of the eye, not at an angle to the plane. A steel washer or spacer may be used in conjunction with shoulder eye bolts to attain proper load alignment. The thickness of the steel washer or spacer must not exceed one thread pitch.
• Check seating after applying an angular lift since the initial lift may cause the bolt to back away from the load. If such occurs, the eye bolt should be unloaded and properly reseated.
• For applications with untapped through-holes, longer length shoulder eye bolts are recommended, using a steel washer and nut for the required thread length of engagement.
• Shoulder Eye bolt tapped holes are to have a threaded length, which allows for full length of shank engagement and clearance for the unthreaded portion of shank.
• Shoulder Eye bolts must be firmly seated and flush against the mating surface; otherwise, the rated capacity is reduced significantly. The use of a steel washer or spacer is permissible and may be required; however, the thickness must not exceed one thread pitch.
• Plain Eye bolt tapped holes are to be threaded for full-length engagement of the eye bolt.
• Plain Eye bolts must have full thread shank engagement, allowing for one-half turn for proper eye-alignment to obtain rated capacities.
• Orient the eye bolt in line with the slings. If the load is applied sideways the eye bolt may bend.
• Pack washers between the shoulder and the load surface to ensure that the eye bolt firmly contacts the surface. Ensure that the nut is properly torqued.
• Engage at least 90% of threads in receiving a hole when using shims or washers.
• Never attach more than one sling leg to an eye bolt.
• Always thread an eye bolt all the way down and ensure proper seating
• Ensure the tapped hole for a screw eye bolt (body bolts) has a minimum depth of one-and-a-half times the bolt diameter.
• Install the shoulder at right angles to the axis of the hole. The shoulder should be in full contact with the surface of the object being lifted.

What should you avoid when using eye bolts?

• Never force a sling through an eye bolt.
• Never over tighten an eye bolt.
• Never paint or color code an eye bolt. Painting may cover up critical flaws.
• Never force hooks or other fittings into the eye; they must fit freely.
• Never shock load an eye bolt, lifting should be completely slowly and gradually.
• Never use a single eyebolt to lift a load that will rotate freely.
• Never used an eyebolt with signs of wear or any other flaw.
• Never insert a hook in an eye bolt, always use a shackle.
• Never exceed the rated capacity of an eye bolt.
• Never alter an eye bolt. Grinding, machining, stamping or altered it any anyway may compromise the strength and integrity of the eye bolt.

Inspection

The working environment, such as ambient temperature and humidity, outdoor elements, and wear and tear, affects eye bolts. A qualified person who is knowledgeable about their application and installation should be routinely inspecting eye bolts before each use and reuse.

Eye bolts should not be painted or otherwise coated when used for lifting; such coatings make it difficult to inspect for defects or wear indicators.

Lifting eyes should be routinely inspected for such conditions as:

• Elongated or bent eye section
• Elongated or bent shank
• Nicks and gouges
• Obvious wear
• Signs of having been ground, cut, heat, welded, repaired or modified in any way
• Worn, corroded and/or distorted threads
• Cracks found by non-destructive testing
• Absence of sufficient identifying markings

If any of these conditions above exist, the lifting eye bolt should be removed from service and destroyed. Also, any eye bolt should be removed from service and destroyed when the manufacturer's identifying marks are no longer readily identifiable to guarantee proper reference for continued safe usage.

Crushing or cutting across the eye is a recommended method of destruction.

Eyebolts in Cold Weather Applications

Some applications require lifting loads in cold working environments. When working with eye bolts cold weather can be defined as a working condition below -1°C.

As described in part I in this series there are various governing standards that apply to eye bolts. The ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) describes how to safely use various products.

There are three standards within ASME that apply to eye bolts: ASME B18.15 for imperial threaded eye bolts, ASME B18.15M for metric threaded eye bolts and ASME B30.26 for Rigging Hardware of which eye bolts are a part of the adjustable hardware section.

ASTM is a standards body that determines material requirements and establishes testing protocols to ensure compliance with ASME standards. The two testing standards that apply are ASTM A489 for Carbon Steel Lifting Eyes and ASTM F541-12 Standard Specification for Alloy Steel Eye bolts.

The ASME B30.26 standard is applicable only to carbon steel eye bolts specifies that carbon steel eye bolts are only to be used above -1°C. For environments below -1°C the standard is ASTM F541-12. In order to achieve certification with this standard the eye bolt must be made of alloy steel and be permanently marked with the letter A denoting it as cold weather specific.

Therefore, there is no situation in which a carbon steel eye bolt can be certified for safe use below -1°C. If any doubt exists regarding the possible lowest working temperature a rated alloy steel eye bolt should be used.

This article aims to provide you with the knowledge to understand various pliers styles, their intended use, how to properly maintain them, and how to choose your next set.

What Are Pliers Used For?

Most of us grab a pair of pliers when we need to cut something, like a piece of wire. While cutting is a common use, pliers are multi-functional tools designed to accomplish a variety of tasks, depending on their design. For example:

• gripping and holding wires and smaller objects
• pulling wire and objects
• reaching into confined or awkward spaces
• splicing, tuning and bending
• tripping wire insulation

Types of Pliers

Pliers can be grouped into 3 broad categories, based on their functionality:

Cutting - this category includes styles such as side-cutting and end cutting, that can only be used to cut wire, bolts, nails and other materials.

Holding - pliers in this category have no cutting function and can only be used to hold objects of various thicknesses. Popular models include groove joint, slip-joint and locking pliers (without wire cutters).

Multifunctional - the jaw configuration of these pliers allow users to perform both cutting and holding operations. Popular models include linesman, long and bent nose pliers.

Below is a more in-depth look at some popular styles:

Combination (linesman's) pliers- as the name suggests these are must-haves for those who do electrical work. Because of their multi-functionality, combination pliers are also one of the most popular pliers style in any professional or homeowner toolbox.

The ridged nose can be used for grabbing as well as pulling, bending, straightening, and twisting wires together. A less-known feature is that the outside edges of the nose can be used to rim off the end of a piece of cut conduit. 

The round cavity can be used to hold round objects, such as nuts and bolts. The double cutter near the joint is ideal for cutting wires and threaded bolts.

Diagonal-cutting pliers - are designed to cut piano, medium and soft wire, screws and nails up to 5 mm thick. The head and jaws are not meant to hold objects. Since this design is very popular for electrical work, many manufacturers provide a version with insulated handles, to protect users against electrical shock.

Long nose pliers - also known as needle-nose pliers, these are similar in functionality to linesman pliers, with the added bonus of allowing the user to reach into tight spots due to the long, tapered jaws. Depending on the design, long nose pliers may feature various jaw configurations that allow users to perform various tasks. 

Water pump (Groove - joint) pliers - although not considered a "precision" tool, groove - joint pliers are another must-have in every toolbox. This type of pliers allows users to hold objects of various sizes as result of the 2 jaws being joined by a pivot joint that slides inside a slot.

The most common design feature is set of curved serrated jaws. The slot might be grooved to allow jaws to be positioned a certain width apart, or have a smooth surface to allow the jaw to quickly adjust to the size of the objects being worked on.

Water pump pliers are used to hold objects of various sizes, and bend wires. Typical sizes are between 8" and 20" in length. A variation of the groove joint pliers features smooth jaws that prevent marring or damaging of the object being handled. These pliers are popular in the aerospace industry, or whenever handling soft materials, such as plastics.

End-cutting pliers - also known as nippers, are used to cut nails, wires, rivets, and bolts. Due to the almost flat head design, the user can get flush with the surface to cut the object, without digging into it. The most popular sizes are 7" & 8". A rivet either exposed or concealed connects the jaws. Some models feature longer handles for increased leverage and access.

Locking pliers - are a distinctive category of pliers rather than a style. As the name suggests locking pliers lock onto the piece to be worked on for better stability. The first step is to adjust the distance between the 2 jaws according to the size of the piece to be gripped; then clamping the handles together to secure the work piece. We have written an extensive article on locking tools that can be accessed here.

Other more specialized pliers include seamers (used in HVAC for bending and flattening sheet metal), crimping pliers (ideal for crimping terminals and connectors for stranded cables with vinyl and rubber insulation), fencing pliers and well as high leverage and spring loaded models which make opening and closing handles easier.

Pliers Construction

Pliers construction hasn’t changed much since medieval times, and consists of 3 main components:

jaws - come in various patterns and designs that provide the tool's functionality, such as cutting, pulling, holding, and stripping.

The tip of the jaw (nose) can be flat (combination pliers), half round (long nose) and round (electronics pliers), and provide functionalities such as bending, holding, and gripping various objects.

The cutter is designed to cut wire of different thicknesses, bolts, nails and other materials.

pivot point - holds the jaws and handle together. The closer the pivot point to the jaws the more leverage and cutting power the pliers have.

handles - provide the means by which the operator can use the pliers. There are a variety of materials used to cover the handles, providing different levels of comfort. Some of the most common materials include vinyl dipping, moulded material and insulated handles that protect the users against electrical shocks.

How to Choose Pliers

The first step when choosing your next set of pliers is deciding the application you need them for. As seen above the degree of versatility differs among various styles, some models being designed to perform multiple functions, while others being designed for more specialised applications.

Once you decide on the style, do your research. Read as much as you can about different brands, watch videos, read product reviews, and ask other professionals what they like in their pliers. It is important to also try different brands and see which one feels right to you. Pliers can vary in surface finish, handle comfort, weight, ease of handle opening, and of course performance. In the end it's a matter of personal preference in design and ergonomics.

The budget plays an important role in the choice of pliers. Pliers are one of the most commonly used tools, so buy the best pliers you can afford. Although most brands back their pliers with a lifetime warranty, professionals will not appreciate pliers that don't cut well, dull prematurely or break, and have to be returned for warranty which leads to loss in productivity.

Safety Measures When Using Pliers

Below are some general safety rules that apply to pliers, regardless of style:

• choose the appropriate pliers for the application. Take the time to educate yourself on the different pliers and their features, such as cutting capacity, the types of wires a plier is able to cut, etc. Failing to do so can result in premature wearing of the tool, jaw damage, inability to perform the job, and even personal injury.
• check pliers wire cutting capacities and capabilities before selecting a particular model for the job; failing to do so can result in premature wearing of the cutting jaws, and the inability to perform the task.
• pliers with insulated handles should always be used when working near live wires. Non - insulated handles can easily be confused with insulated ones. A plier with insulated handles features the double triangle symbol or the VDE logo. For more on insulated tools read here.
• always cut at right angles for a clean, effective cut. Avoid bending the wire back and forth; instead, use a bigger size or a model with a bigger cutting capacity.
• wear safety glasses when you operate pliers as pieces of material fly unexpectedly. 
• use the appropriate size pliers for your hand and personal comfort. Using smaller pliers can result in pinched hands and fingers, while a size too big can lead to the tool being dropped or an inability to operate it efficiently.
• do not use pliers as a hammer or hammer on the pliers handles to cut thicker wires or bolts.
• clean and maintain your pliers regularly; cleaning the jaws and adding a drop of oil on the rivet will ensure years of dependable use.
• do not use pliers for tightening or breaking nuts loose; use a wrench instead to avoid damage to the nut.
• do not expose pliers to excessive heat, as the tool's properties might change.
• always inspect the condition of the plier before using; always use tools that are in safe working order.
• if the plier is damaged, stop using it and invest in a new set of pliers.

In part 2 of our series on how to choose your next toolbox, we focused on the drawer system. We specifically explored drawer design and slide types.

In our final instalment, we will turn our attention to casters and the locking mechanism. With that in mind, let us begin.

Although entire full-length articles can be written solely about casters, we are going to focus only on the key essentials.

Basic Caster Anatomy & Terminology

Below is a list of common terms used when referencing casters.

• Durometer – An industry scale for measuring a wheel's hardness. The higher the number the harder the wheel.
• Rollability - the ease of beginning and maintaining rolling motion. Rollability on a toolbox will be influenced by many factors such as: wheel durometer, floor conditions, quality of bearings in the wheel and weight of the toolbox.
• Maximum Load Capacity - the maximum load a caster can hold.
• Overall Height - The vertical distance from the floor to the top of the top plate or in the case of a roller cabinet the bottom of the toolbox.
• Top Plate – connected to the fork, the plate mates with the toolbox and features the boltholes through which the mounting screws will be inserted. A larger top plate can positively contribute to the toolboxes' overall stability.
• Tread Width - width of the caster wheel.
• Wheel Diameter - the distance of the wheel measured vertically from one side of the tread to the other.
• Side Brake – a lever locking mechanism found on the side of the caster, which prevents caster rolling. Typically requires a foot activated engagement.
• Top Brake – a tab-like locking mechanism found on the top wheel, which prevents caster rolling and swivelling. Typically requires a foot activated engagement and is often referred to as a 360^° , easier to engage than a side brake.

Understanding the Work Environment

Many of the features, benefits, and considerations below must be individually evaluated and determined based on specific workplace environment and conditions.

Frequency of Movement

• If the roller cabinet isn't going to move often or ever the most important feature is likely going to be wheel hardness. In this case the harder the better.
• Soft-wheeled casters are to be avoided if a toolbox isn't going to be moved. Soft casters that aren’t rolled regularly can "dent", creating a flat tire or flat bottom that will prevent future rolling.

Floor Surface Being Rolled Across

• If the cabinet is going to be moved it is important to know the surface conditions.

Smooth polished floors such as those found in hospitals are ideally suited to soft wheeled pneumatic or rubber wheels. Soft wheeled casters will effortlessly glide across smooth surfaces, with minimal noise, floor marring, and effort required.

Uneven, chemically soiled, and dirty floors like those found in industrial environments are ideally suited to hard polyurethane or phenolic wheeled casters. Hard casters resist chemical solvents, more easily roll over obstructions and better resist floor debris such as shavings and fillings.

Weight Capacity

• Casters, like drawer slides, are rated by weight capacity. The greater the stated capacity the larger the load the casters can hold and move. It is pointless to purchase a heavy-duty toolbox capable of holding hundreds or thousands of pounds if the casters cannot match the load limit.

It is important to understand that there is no "perfect caster" for all work environments.

The softer the caster the smoother and quieter it will roll. Unfortunately, the softer the caster the easier it will be damaged in harsh workplaces and the lower the maximum weight capacity will be.

Therefore, when conducting research on your next toolbox, try to answer these questions as best you can: 

• What is the floor surface you will be placing and moving your roller cabinet on?
• How often will you move the roller cabinet?
• How much weight will your toolbox be storing?
• How wide a toolbox are you going to need? Generally 4 casters is sufficient, however on toolboxes wider than 42" 6 casters are highly recommended for easier rolling and distribution of the larger load.

A final consideration; casters are the easiest to upgrade of all the toolbox components.

If, in time, you feel the standard casters do not meet your needs, you can always replace them with aftermarket versions that will.

Toolbox Locking Mechanism

The final component we will examine is the locking mechanism. While locking a toolbox seems like an obvious function, it can actually have a dramatic influence on workplace safety.

With health and safety on the minds of employees and management like never before, it is not surprising to find advanced safety innovations into today's modern toolboxes.

Below are examples of two such technologies:

One-Drawer Opening System

Toolboxes equipped with one drawer opening systems prevent users from opening more than a single drawer at any given time.

By allowing a maximum of one drawer to open users are prevented from creating employee workflow restrictions and important accidental tip-overs.

Tip-overs occur when too much of the toolboxes' weight is moved beyond its centre of gravity. This usually happens when too many heavily filled drawers are fully or partially opened at once.

Safety Latch Opening System

Safety latch-equipped toolboxes are fitted with a hidden latch located below the drawer handle.

To activate or disengage the latch users must tilt the drawer handle upwards or release a lever. The required lifting or pressing motion prevents already shut drawers from accidentally opening.

This feature is indispensable for users who move their toolboxes frequently throughout the day. Users typically close the drawers but often forget to lock their toolboxes before moving them.

Safety latch systems prevent the unexpected opening of multiple unlocked drawers during travel. Once a heavily loaded toolbox begins tipping there is no stopping it. A tipped heavily loaded toolbox can lead to serious personal injury.

Another important function for the locking mechanism is theft deterrence.

Although no lock is entirely safe from would be thieves some locks create a greater deterrence than others. Examples of such locks include those requiring access cards, fingerprint ID's and multi-digit keypad passwords.

Unfortunately, due to cost, the most common locks seen today are tumbler and tubular style systems.

Before purchasing any toolbox be sure to ask the manufacturer about the availability of spare keys in the future (trust us they are going to get lost at some point) and the number of key lock combinations available. The greater the number of combinations the less likely coworkers will have a key capable of opening your toolbox.

Final Considerations

When deciding on a toolbox model consider added accessories you might need, such as drawer liners, drawer guards, protective covers, and top mats.

Color, finish and design are a matter of personal preference, and unbelievably a major contributor to your overall satisfaction with your purchase.

Choose a color that will make your tool chest fit in the surrounding workspace and be sure the drawers are laid out in a way that reflects your needs and work habits.

Finally, the ability to service your toolbox and purchase spare parts should weigh in your selection. Reputable tool brands will be able to service your product on site should the need arise, and provide spare parts for years to come.

With #PladforDad fast approaching, Rocco Rossi, the president of Prostate Cancer Canada, shares with our blog readers some important facts and misconceptions about prostate cancer, in an exclusive interview.

With an affliction rate similar to breast cancer in women why isn't prostate cancer as disease not more mainstream or widely discussed?

Generally speaking, women are more open about their health than men. Whether it’s rooted in something social or physiological or a combination of the two, we don’t know, but women are much more likely to take proactive steps towards taking care of both their own health and the broader health issues facing women.

What do you think is the biggest aversion men have towards the issue of prostate cancer? Is it testing, a dislike of doctors in general, or something else?

I think it’s a difficult question with a very complex answer, but it’s also an important one we must explore in order to get more men talking about the most common cancer to affect them.

While reasons may range from fear and discomfort to ignorance and machismo, all men need to know that their best ally in the fight against prostate cancer is to catch it early.

When detected early, the survival rate for prostate cancer can be over 90%. That statistic alone should be reason enough for men to start doing a much better job of spreading the word and taking our health into our own hands.

Of those men who do pursue testing and fact gathering, how a big a role does their spouse play in the decision to take action?

Like with any disease, when a man is diagnosed with prostate cancer, that diagnosis is shared with family and friends. For that very reason, we feel it is imperative to be as inclusive as possible when spreading awareness and educating the public.

As we know, spouses, children, relatives, and friends can all play a big role in the decisions men make regarding our health. The more people who are informed and engaged, the more likely it is that men will get the push they might require to take action.

What do you believe should be taking placing in the battle to find a cure and save lives that presently is not?

As I mentioned previously, early detection is crucial to saving lives on the front end of things. While many cases of prostate cancer may never require treatment, many others will lead to death if they’re not caught and treated at an early stage.

In the former case, unnecessary treatment can be avoided using Active Surveillance, a method with Canadian origins that involves the close monitoring of non-aggressive tumors in the event that they do become aggressive and require treatment.

In the latter case, an aggressive tumor can be treated prior to spreading beyond the prostate and becoming much more difficult to treat.

In addition to early detection, Prostate Cancer Canada is funding research of the highest order to improve the way we diagnose, treat, and care for men living with prostate cancer and their families.

Examples include the development of genetic tests that can tell whether men are at risk of developing aggressive forms of prostate cancer based on certain inherited genes; drugs that provide a new last line of defence to men whose prostate cancer has become resistant to standard treatments; and evidence-based services and resources to support all those affected by prostate cancer throughout their journey.

Without the generous donations of Canadian individuals and organizations, we simply would not be able to fund these most important education and research initiatives.

The more support we receive, the better positioned we are to help save and improve the lives of men faced with prostate cancer and their families not only in Canada, but throughout the globe.

What do you believe is the biggest misconception about the disease?

The biggest misconception about prostate cancer is that it is an elderly man’s disease. While it is true the prevalence increases with age, I have met a number of men in their early 40s who have been diagnosed with prostate cancer.

It is for this reason that we recommend men talk to their doctors about their personal risk and consider getting a baseline PSA test at age 40.

For more information on prostate cancer screening and the pros and cons of PSA tests, we have developed the following resource for men: PSA test.

What are some of the short and long-term goals of Prostate Cancer Canada as an organization?

Our long- and short-term goals, simply stated, are to reduce mortality and improve quality of life associated with prostate cancer through education, research, advocacy and support.

Do you believe making prostate examination a mandatory component of the annual physical exams could save lives?

Screening-wise, Prostate Cancer Canada advocates for shared decision making and encourages men and their doctors to talk about the PSA test and then to make an informed decision together, factoring in risk factors that include family history, age, and ethnicity.

Are you dreaming about a career where you stay active, both mentally and physically, earn a good living wage and start your adult life with little or zero school debt?

If the answer is yes, keep reading to see why enrolling in a trade school rather than college or university might be what you should aim for.

In a dynamic and constantly changing job market, high-school students face some tough questions about their future careers. Many feel the guidance and advice received from school and parents does not always resonate with who they are or what they like doing.

Before the 2008 recession, the “expected” career path for high-school graduates was to go to college or university and get a good office job upon graduation.

The post-recession reality painted a somber picture for university graduates.

In Canada, unemployment or underemployment among those who graduate from college and university is higher than the general average, while the costs of attending a university are constantly rising. The average 4-year degree costs in excess of 100k when rent and other expenses are factored in, which leaves many students heavily in debt upon graduation.

Moreover, many university graduates usually have to settle for underpaid, often precarious jobs, that don’t match their qualifications, let alone their dreams at the end of high-school.

In contrast, those enrolled in skilled trades face a much rosier outlook. The demand for skilled work has never been higher, with good paying opportunities available across many trades.

Traditionally, working in trades has been associated with low paid, hard, dirty factory work, and viewed as an inferior career choice compared to white collar, office jobs. Below are 5 fact-based reasons that contradict this perception, and make enrolling in a trade school a solid choice for a fulfilling professional life.

Unlike university graduates who spend most of the 4-year program learning the theoretical aspects of their field in class, trade schools offer students a more practical, hands-on approach. As a student you will get a chance to learn from experienced professionals and gain valuable work experience during your studies.

Moreover, most apprentice programs are only 2 years long, allowing graduates to earn a good income faster.

2. Pursue a very satisfying career -office jobs are not always as fulfilling as they are perceived to be. Many white-collar workers complain about the slow pace of the work environment, and spending time in front of the computer with not much to do.

Trades people don’t have time to get bored. Their work is usually structured as such that there is something to work on at any given time. Moreover, the outcome is immediately visible, which offers a great sense of accomplishment and pride in a job well done that makes a difference.

There is also good news for those who plan to be their own boss. Since many homes and business are in need of renovation, plumbing, electrical, and roofing services, specializing in these fields offer great opportunities to start your own businesses, where the earning potential is only dependent of the quality of your work and your business skills.

That said, people will still need people to fix their roof, operate machinery, maintain airplanes and perform electrical work. While no job is 100% secure, it’s safe to say that there will always be a need for local skilled, hands on work, so the changes of your job being outsourced are very slim.. This means that the demand for skilled labor will continue to exist for the foreseeable future.

With many baby boomers working in trades approaching retirement or already retired, a career in trades looks like a very wise decision. Of course, the decision to pursue such a career does not only come down to money and job security. This has to be for you, something you really enjoy doing, as you will be spending most of your active year building a career, which requires motivation and determination.

In part 1 in our series, we defined user needs and expectations, and focused on frame construction.

In part 2, we will focus on the drawer system; its key elements and how it impacts the toolbox functionality and durability.

The main and obvious function of the drawer system is to store tools safely, while allowing easy and secure access to its contents.

Drawers (including the slides) are generally the most expensive part in the overall cost of manufacturing a toolbox. Not only is each drawer a separate production process, but each one requires at least one pair of slides.

As a rule of thumb, the greater the number of drawers the higher the price of the toolbox. Keep in mind that cost is not the only true indicator of quality.

On that note, let us examine quality and production differences in greater depth.

Drawer Construction

Although drawers can come in many different widths, depths, and heights, some characteristics are universal signs of a superior quality:

1. The gauge of steel used in their construction is critical. The typical gauge of steel used falls into the 18-22G range. The lower the number the thicker and more durable the steel. A drawer made of 18G steel is more durable than one made of 20G steel.

2. A simple yet obvious indication of quality construction is the drawer edges. Inferior quality roller cabinets will have drawers whose edges (sides running from front to back) are simply straight. On premium quality boxes, these sides will be rolled or folded over creating a rounded top edge. In addition to a safer duller edge the rolled over edge provides significant drawer stiffness. This extra stiffness is very important for heavily loaded drawers. The added strength prevents drawer deformation. This extra rigidity can easily be seen by twisting a straight edge vs rolled over drawer.

3. Many roller cabinets today include some form of drawer liner kit. Fortunately simply removing the liners can reveal another sure-fire quality indicator. A drawer with a stamped bottom is a positive sign of superior workmanship and attention to detail. The reason for this is, stamping a drawer bottom acts like "corrugation", which provides tremendous increase in strength and durability. This is extremely beneficial for users who heavily load their boxes and move their cabinets around frequently.

4. Although not specifically a quality consideration, drawer design is an important factor. Drawers with a flush front design (drawer fronts are even with the surrounding frame) utilize space more efficiently. Losing a ¼" to ½" over as many as 15 drawers came result in a significant loss in storage space. Before buying, measure to confirm the roller cabinet's actual cubic/inch storage capacity.

Apart from construction, pay close attention to your current and future storage needs.

Roller cabinets with many shallow drawers are ideal for holding flat tools such as pliers, wrenches, micrometers and other hand tools.

If your tool collection includes larger bulkier items such as welding helmets, power tools and deep sockets consider a box with deeper drawers. As a general guideline always purchase a roller cabinet with as many drawers as you can afford. This prevents your tool collection from looking like your child's chaotic toy chest.

Manufacturers often ignore drawer construction details in favor of stating specs on slides. The most commonly communicated specification is the maximum load capacity.

However, like all other elements in a tool chest, it is important to look beyond the numbers as not all components are created equal.

Drawer Slides

Slides can generally be categorized into two types: friction and bearing. 

Friction or non-roller bearing slides work like just like roller bearing slides. They require insertion of the female glides (on sides of drawer) into the male channels (located inside the cabinet).

As the name implies the slides do not have bearings and therefore open and close using purely kinetic friction. The steel on steel contact results in a difficult (greater force required by user), noisier, and slower drawer movement.

Although unsophisticated in their design, friction slides provide numerous benefits and advantages:

• Friction slides are cheaper than roller bearing slides. This explains why they are most commonly found on entry-level tool chests with lower price points
• By eliminating any extra components, friction slides are extremely robust with no weak points to cause failure
• Outside of accidental bending friction slides will almost never need to be replaced
• Apart from occasional lubrication (not grease) friction slides require no maintenance or upkeep
• Non-ball bearing slides are ideal in work environments were the possible failure of a ball bearing is not permissible
• Their ease of removal and re-installation makes misalignment during re-assembly almost impossible

Bearing slides work in the same manner as friction slides except their design incorporates ball or roller bearings. The use of bearings provides a smooth surface on which the male and female glides will move along.

The result is a virtually effortless, quiet, and faster drawer opening experience. Bearing slides are the mostly common type of slide used today.

As bearing slides have become commonplace it is important to differentiate the great from the average:

In summary, it is important to choose a roller cabinet with quality drawers and slides since you will be opening and closing them many times daily. It is also equally important to consider the size and makeup of your tool collection and understand your expectations.

If you open your drawer frequently and expect to heavily load the drawers, a roller cabinet with a mix of shallow and deep drawers equipped with heavy-duty, high capacity slides is an ideal choice.

If your tool collection is small, a box with few drawers and friction slides could be the budget friendly choice for you.

In future posts in this series we will look at other key components such casters and the locking mechanism.

As a field technician performing the bulk of your work on location, your expectations from the tools you use is pretty straight forward.

You want dependable tools that will not let you down in the middle of the job. You also need your tools to be easy to carry and take as little space as possible in your service van or truck.

The new Mobile Technician Gray Tools recently introduced are meant to meet all these requirements in a complete, quality package.

The new sets fill an important gap in our existing tool assortment. Gray Tools is well known for its quality tools and stationary storage, such as the Pro+ and Marquis line of toolboxes.

The introduction last year of our new line of stackable modular cases allow us to offer mobile technicians a complete quality package (tools and storage) to perform their job on location.

The three sets include the most popular tools professionals use, tool organizers, and durable cases that allow for easy transportation.

The new sets include (to see each set's content click on the individual links):

43 Piece Mobile Technician Set (Part No MS43)

74 Piece Mobile Technician Set (Part No MS74)

134 Piece Mobile Technician Set (part No MS134)

Each set is designed to offer the flexibility professional users demand. 

The modular boxes that house the tools are easily stackable, resulting in a space efficient mobile tool storage system inside the utility van or truck. Additional cases in various sizes, can be purchased by those who need accommodation for existing tools or plan new tool purchases.

The tool organizers inside the sets feature flexible compartment space to house tools of various sizes, depending on the individual needs. Additional inserts can also be purchased separately.

The industrial-quality tools included in each sets are guaranteed to provide years of dependable service in remote settings where reliability is needed the most.

The three Mobile Technician Sets are ideal for field technicians, general contractors and professionals who need to transport their tools on location. The pre-configured kits can easily be considered when outfitting a new hire or apprentice, since each kit includes the most popular tools to tackle most common jobs.

The new sets can be ordered through Gray Tools network of over 2,000 industrial distributors. For your closest distributors visit www.graytools.com/wheretobuy. The full range is also available online at ShopGrayTools.com.

The same holds true if your current tool chest has exceeded its storage capacity. Depending on its condition and your space constraints, you might want to consider buying an additional one or a replacement that will provide room for your existing tools and enough space to grow your collection.

The most popular option professionals choose to house their tools is a roller cabinet or mobile workstation. A roller cabinet is a toolbox on wheels that can provide centralized, easy-to-access storage for the tools you have collected over the years.

It consists of a metal frame that holding a number of drawers, and four or more casters mounted at the bottom of the frame for easy maneuvering.

For the do-it-yourself that only owns a few basic tools, a light-duty, budget friendly roller cabinet will do. However, if you are professional with an already impressive tool collection that only grows bigger year after year, the quality, and durability of the roller cabinet should be a priority.

Although an exterior design might look attractive and “muscular” at first glance, “it’s what’s inside” that matters when it comes to storing your tools safely and conveniently. The long-term durability of a roller cabinet is determined by the quality of material and components and the production workmanship and assembly.

Before we take a more in-depth look at the main components of a roller cabinet, we need to understand that the words “quality toolbox” have different meanings, depending on the owner and intended application.

For example, if you need to move the toolbox a lot, investing in quality casters is necessary. If your toolbox will be mostly stationary but it needs to hold many tools, then heavy-duty construction might be what you need.

Before you start shopping for your next roller cabinet, try to answer these questions as best you can:

• What is the approximate total weight of the tools your new tool chest will need to hold?
• How many oversized/bulky tools you need to store?
• What is the floor surface you will be placing and moving your roller cabinet on?
• How often will you move the roller cabinet?
• What is the intended use of the top area of the roller cabinet? Drawing, working, holding additional tool storage?
• Do you need any power outlets as part of the roller cabinet?
• What are the chances of your tools being stolen at your workshop?

 Frame

The frame also referred to as the chassis is the “foundation” of any roller cabinet supporting the other components, namely the drawers and casters. As the foundation, it must resist gravity, which pulls the weight inside the tool chest downward, and racking forces, which are X, Y & Z axis movements caused by stresses and expansion.

Racking forces are encountered when moving the roller cabinet across on uneven floors, or rolling over bumps. The result is a box that loses its level or plumb. A frame damaged from racking will show signs of caved or dented sidewalls, drawers that will not open/close and collapsing of the work top.

Below we will explore several elements to look for in your next purchase that can limit the effect of damaging gravitational and racking forces:

The gauge of steel used in its construction is critical. The typical gauge of steel used to build the frame falls into the 14-22G range. The lower the number, the thicker, and more durable the material. A roller cabinet made with 16G steel is more durable than one made of G20 steel.

Manufacturers often use different gauges of steel for various sections of the frame. For example, 16G steel for the top and bottom, and 18G or 20G for the sidewalls, posts, and channels.

The gauge of steel used is generally reflected in the net weight of the tool chest. All other things being equal, the heavier the box, the thicker the gauge of steel used in its construction.

The total number of welds (weld count) can have big impact of long-term durability. While spot welding is a universally accepted production method of joining two pieces of metal, what is not universal is the number of welds required.

An inferior quality frame will have fewer welds. This means there are fewer bonds, spaced further apart holding the frame pieces together. The easiest way to spot the number of welds is by simply removing drawers from frame and looking inside.

Reinforcements such as corner posts, C-channels, and extra walls added inside the frame are also excellent indicators of superior quality. That said not all reinforcements are equal. To determine if the frame has reinforcements and to evaluate their quality, remove several drawers to gain access to frame. Once removed inspect for quantity, steel thickness, size and placement of the reinforcements.

Less obvious but equally important considerations include:

​As with many things, each construction and weld joint type has its advantages and disadvantages. Take the time to investigate before buying. As a general rule of thumb look for double or triple wall construction, designs with as few seems as possible, and primarily lap joint welds.

In future posts in this series we will look at other key components such drawers, slides, locks and casters.

Starting a career in trades has its challenges: dividing your time between completing your curriculum requirements and gaining work experience means little time to shop for tools. Building a tool collection that will withstand the demands of daily usage can be a big expense.

This is where the Gray Student program can “lend” a hand. It was designed to help full-time students enrolled in vocational and trades schools start their career with the quality tools they need to be successful.

To enroll in the program, visit this link: https://goo.gl/Ys9Gxs

Here are a few reasons why you should take advantage of the program during your studies:

Everyday Discounted Price on Tools Used by Canadian Professionals for Over 100 Years

Sometimes it is difficult to separate a quality hand tool from an ordinary one. Depending on the tool, comparing specifications and identifying product differences may be difficult and confusing. Many tools in the store may look similar, so you have to rely on advice from the store clerks, online reviews and opinions or simply brand reputation.

The real quality test comes in the workplace, when you use the tools on a daily basis. Enrolling in the Student program gives you the opportunity to start your tool collection with lower prices on a brand trusted by successful professionals since 1912.

Companies such as Bell Canada, Ontario Hydro, Toronto Transit Commission, General Electric, and others outfit generations of employees with Gray tools because they know the tools can deliver even in extraordinary circumstances. If Gray does the job in these situations, they will certainly perform for you as well.

Good quality tools require a greater upfront investment. As a member of the student program, you can choose any tool available on ShopGrayTools.com at an everyday discounted price eliminating the need to wait for promotions or search the internet for sales.

If a particular product is temporarily discounted more than your everyday low price you will pay the lower price. To summarise, students always pay the lowest price for a product offered on ShopGrayTools.com during their enrolment period.

No-Hassle Post-Sale Service

Before you rush to buy a particular tool, think for a moment of how you will have it serviced. As a professional your time is better spent working and making money than in line at the big box store waiting for warranty.

Gray Tools has built a reputation among professionals for backing its tools with exceptional service, including, in most cases, a no-hassle lifetime warranty.

As the only remaining Canadian tool manufacturer we stock spare parts for many of the products we sell. We routinely are able to fix ratchets from the 1960’s and later, and return them in like-new condition to their original owners.

Shop 24/7 From The Comfort of Your Home

Juggling between work and school means you have little time to research, drive, and purchase a tool. The Gray Student program runs exclusively online, meaning you can shop whenever you have time, in the morning, afternoon or evening.

Our online store offers instant access to the vast majority of products seen in our catalogue, regardless of where you are located in Canada. Orders are quickly and cost effectively delivered to your destination using our low flat rate or free shipping options.

Automatic Enrolment in the Gray Loyalty Program

Another benefit of the Student program is automatic enrolment in the Gray Loyalty Club. As a club member you will be able to collect points for every purchase you make online and for other activities. One of the best easiest ways to collect points is by referring friends to our website. As soon as your friend registers and makes a minimum $50 purchase, you will be rewarded with 1000 points.

Points are redeemable for attractive rewards, such as discounts on future purchases. During our limited time promotions for club members, you will have opportunities to earn and redeem points faster.

For more information about the Gray Loyalty Club click here (https://shopgraytools.com/blogs/news/112706884-announcing-the-gray-loyalty-club).

These are only a few reasons to become a member of our student program. Registration is straightforward: you can apply by completing the online form (https://shopgraytools.com/pages/student-program-sign-up) with information such as your school and program name, and student ID.

Applications are processed within 24 hours, allowing students to start building their tool collection right way.

Bench vises are an integral part of any workstation whether it is fixed or mobile. The primary function of any vise is to hold an object safety and securely so that it can be worked on. Bench vises make work such as sanding, finishing, chipping, sawing, and welding easier by freeing the operator's hands to perform the needed task. Their simplicity and versatility means users of any skill level or experience can benefit from their use.

The following guide takes a closer look at the styles, components, manufacturing and key selection considerations when buying a bench vise.

Bench Vise Styles

For the purpose of this article, we will be focusing on the metalworking vise, often referred to as the Engineer's, Mechanics, Combination, or Tradesman vises. Metalworking vises are designed to be fastened to a sturdy table via eyelets located at the sides and back of the vise. The dynamic jaw (explained later) is  designed to hang over the edge of the table. Although vises are primarily designed to hold a work pieces horizontally, the overhanging front jaw does permit the holding of objects vertically.

In terms of shape and design, metalworking vises can vary in many ways, as seen  below:

Despite the many different types, shapes, and sizes vises most vises consist of the following major components.

 Anatomy of a Bench Vise

1. Sliding or Dynamic Jaw – the jaw closest to the operator that has the handle protruding through it. It is referred to as the dynamic jaw as it is the jaw that moves open and closed. The dynamic jaw applies or relieves clamping pressure.
2. Fixed Body or Static Jaw – the static jaw is typically the heavier of the two jaws and, as its name implies, remains stationary during operation. The static jaw is usually fastened to the table or bench either directly or indirectly via an optional connected swivel base.
3. Main or Lead screw – the component that rotates and moves the dynamic jaw open or closed. The lead screw passes through the nut and is attached to the handle. The body of the main screw is threaded. Acme is the most common thread used as its shape is easy to machine and assemble. A poorly manufactured lead screw will compromise the hold and security of any vise.
4. Handle – is located at the front of the vise. It acts as the lever that turns the lead screw, which in turn moves the dynamic jaw. The handle is engineered to match the maximum clamping power the vise can handle. A properly designed and manufactured handle will bend when too much force is applied. This acts a safety indicator preventing overtorqueing. Adding a cheater bar to the handle is never recommended as personal safety will become highly compromised.
5. Jaws – located at the top of each the static and dynamic jaw, the jaws essentially provide the contact points between vise and work piece. The jaws are usually made from hardened steel and machined in a serrated pattern. The pattern provides the bite needed to hold the work piece. To prevent marring of the work piece soft jaws that install over the jaws are available as add-ons. Premium quality vises have replaceable jaws.

Differences in Production & Materials

Bench vises are commonly made in two distinct processes: casting and forging.

Casting is the most common and cost effective manufacturing process. It involves pouring hot liquid metal into molds. Once poured into the mold the liquid steel is allowed to cool. After cooling and hardening the molds are removed leaving a finished shape. This process is used to manufacture the static and dynamic jaws. Although cost effective, there are several drawbacks to this production method including a rough final surface finish and the possibility of impure casting  and thus a weaker, compromised part.

The forging production method is more costly. However the result is a superior quality product with greater tensile strength, typically expressed in pounds per square inch (PSI ). Unlike casting, the forging process uses solid blocks of steel that are heated and then pounded into their required shape. This production method is common in the tool industry when manufacturing wrenches and pliers. A high quality forged vise can have a tensile strength of 90,000+ PSI compared to 19,000-60,000 Psi for a cast vise.

In addition to differences in production method, the materials used to make vises also differ. Two of the most common materials used are Gray (or grey) and Ductile iron. The primary difference between Gray and Ductile iron is the type and structure of the carbon present within them. The carbon type and structure provides different product characteristics, which we will examine below.

1. Ductility - the addition of magnesium in ductile iron means that the graphite has a nodular/spherical shape, which results in superior strength and ductility compared to gray iron, which is shaped like flakes. 
2. Impact Resistance - ductile iron has a greater resistance to impacts.  It is capable of resisting a minimum of 7-foot pounds of impact compared to only 2 pounds for gray iron. This can be critical if the vise has an anvil or the user frequently delivers inaccurate blows which hit the vise.
3. Tensile and Yield Strength– ductile iron has a minimum tensile strength of 60,000 PSI and minimum yield strength of 40,000 PSI. Gray iron by comparison has no measurable yield strength and a tensile strength of 20,000–60,000 PSI.

Things to Consider When Purchasing a Bench Vise

As with any tool purchase, careful consideration of how the tool will be used is paramount. Before making a final decision consider the checklist list below:

As a professional electrician, your safety and productivity depend on having the right tools to tackle any repair or maintenance job. Building a comprehensive professional electrician toolkit isn’t easy or inexpensive. It's common sense to start with the tools you use commonly in your projects, and build your collection in time.

The following are 9 tools and accessories every professional electrician should own. Although the initial investment is not negligible, these tools will save you money and make you more productive from day one.

Wire Strippers

Electrical repairs often require the removal of wire insulation. Wire strippers vary in functionality, from those that feature precise holes for each gauge of wire, to automatic wire strippers that self-adjust to accommodate a wide range of wire gauges. Many models also feature a wire cutter and crimper built-in.

Wire Cutters

In addition to stripping wire insulation, some electrical wires will also need to be cut. In case your wire stripper doesn't have a cutter built-in, using a high-quality wire cutter can make it easy to remove damaged wiring during many common electrical jobs. Wire cutters with insulated handles is always a good investment, as they provide protection against electrical shock, while preserving the functionality of regular wire cutters.

Insulated Lineman’s Pliers

Electricians use lineman’s pliers to grip, twist, cut, and bend electrical wiring. The design of this must-have tool enables it to create a high degree of force and increased accuracy, which helps with a wide range of operations.The tapered outside edges are suitable for reaming the rough edge of conduits, or clean sharp metal from inside a junction box.

Insulated Needle-Nose Pliers

This tool is ideal for reaching in confined areas to access and pull cables and wires that are stuck. Needle nose pliers also allows professional electricians to hold and cut wires.  and are used in a variety of trades in addition to electrical repair. The unique design of this tool provides you with a high level of control and accuracy. It has a cutting edge that makes the tool versatile for any electrician.

Voltage Tester

One of the most important electrician tools is the voltage tester. If an electrical appliance isn’t working, you can use this tool to determine if the cause is related to the lack of an electrical current or if the appliance is damaged. It can also provide more safety by allowing you to check for a current after you’ve turned off a circuit breaker.

Insulated Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers are essential in any toolbox. But for electricians, using insulated screwdrivers prevents the risk of electrical shock when working with live currents. Insulated screwdrivers can typically withstand up to 1,000 volts. Your toolbox should have a variety of sizes in slotted, Phillips and square recess head design.

Battery Tester

A battery tester is another valuable tool for troubleshooting during an electrical repair job. It can be difficult to determine if a faulty battery is to blame for the issue you’re addressing. Also, if you have spare batteries to use for replacement, you can use a battery tester to determine if they can still be used, which helps reduce the waste that occurs when purchasing new batteries.

Multimeter

The biggest benefit of a multimeter is its ability to test different electrical measurement properties. These include current, resistance, and AC or DC voltage. This ability makes it easy to troubleshoot electrical breakdowns. A multimeter can also test your local power sources and switches. There are analog and digital multimeters available to meet your electrician needs.

Electrical Tape

No electrician’s toolbox is complete without electrical tape. This tape allows you to insulate electrical wiring and is made of plastic or vinyl. It’s an elastic material that makes it sensitive to pressure and provides insulation properties that last a long time. Some types of electrical type are made with fiberglass cloth and are typically used for class H insulation.

Wire Nuts

Wire nuts are simple, but essential, tools for your electrician’s toolkit. They can be used to fasten multiple wires and come in a variety of shapes and sizes to suit your needs. They are made from a combination of plastic and a coiled insert made of metal. The insert is what allows the nut to hold the wires together and maintain the electrical current. Wire nuts should be on hand at all times in order to ensure that you can complete your electrical repair without the need for additional materials.

Working in the electrical field requires proper training and a high level of professionalism in tacking electrical repair and maintenance needs in order to prevent unwanted incidents. Have the right electrical tools in order to complete your repair quickly and easily is what separates a good electrician from the rest.

Those who suffer from arthritis can often fear the future of their employment physical job. They may worry about the possibility of being fired or laid off because of their condition, or about their ability to keep the pace with colleagues. As well, some may leave their job in order to pursue less physically demanding employment.

Arthritis is a chronic pain disorder that causes inflammation in the joints and most often affects the knees, fingers and hips. The most common types of arthritis include osteoarthritis and rheumatoid arthritis.

Arthritis can result from age or injury, however repetitive motions, bending, kneeling, reaching and working with vibrating tools will worsen the situation. As well, standing for long periods of time and lifting heavy objects can cause more frequent flare-ups.

While it’s important to speak with your doctor or occupational therapist about the right solutions for you, here are some tips to ensure you can continue to effectively do your job:

Change Your Technique

Depending on the nature of your job, you could be faced with a variety of tasks that cause stress on one or more areas of your body. Understanding which movements are more greatly affecting your joint pain will help you to better pinpoint alternatives that work for you.

An occupational therapist can assess your job duties and offer suggestions for how to alleviate the pain.

Changing the technique in which you do certain aspects of your job will reduce the stress placed on certain joints.

Take Regular Breaks

If your current break schedule is leaving you feeling tired and sore, you might consider speaking with your employer about a new break plan that works best for you.

Increasing productivity is in the interest of you and your employer, and taking more frequent breaks throughout the day will give your joints the relief they need so you can get back to work faster.

Most importantly, you should take a break when you’re experiencing a flare-up so as to not worsen the situation.

Lastly, taking time to stretch and drinking lots of water will help to mitigate arthritis pain. 

Adjust Your Current Tools

There are many ergonomic tools on the market to help reduce arthritis pain, however you might want to first consider how you can adjust existing tools.

An occupational therapist can pinpoint which tools require modifications, such as increased handle size which will allow you to better grip your tools. Adjusting your current equipment to suit your needs is an easy first step in alleviating arthritis pain at work.

Buy New Tools

If you’ve adjusted all your current tools and are still in need of more options, you should look into expanding your collection. There are many tools on the market specifically designed for those with arthritis. Whether you’re looking for something to relieve pain in your hands, back, shoulders or knees, the below products are sure to help:

Extendable tools: if you are constantly bending and reaching for your job, you might want to consider buying an extendable tool with a claw, or a magnetic pick up tool, to help you better grab objects, large or small.

Carrying tools: if you often carry heavy bags, you might want to purchase a tool that you can hang heavy bags on to reduce the load on your joints. You can also purchase a carrier with wheels so you can more easily transport equipment.

Padded or large handled tools: buying tools with large or padded handles will help you to achieve a better grip.

Anti-vibration gloves: if you often use drills, these gloves will reduce the absorption of vibration on your joints, reducing your risk for flare-ups.

Sit-stand stool: if your job requires you to stand for long periods of time, affecting your back and causing pain, a sit stand stool will allow you to remain partially standing while taking the pressure off your joints.

All of these tools are sure to boost your productivity on the job and reduce the risk of worsening your arthritis.

Prioritize Your Tasks

Breaking up your tasks throughout the week will ensure your joints have a sufficient break in between more physically demanding tasks so that you can more easily manage your workload.

Managing your arthritis pain will ensure you can get back to work and keep the pace with your colleagues. Changing your technique, taking regular breaks, adjusting your tools or buying modifiers intended for those with arthritis are all tips to help you keep working.

However, on the whole, these MRO issues could be handled much more efficiently, especially given the fact that MRO inventory can account for up to 40 percent of a given businesses’ budget. To maximize efficiency and productivity, here are five strategies a millwright should keep in mind in order to better address common MRO issues.

An Organized and Clean Storeroom

One common problem when it comes to MRO issues is a lack of an organized storeroom
they are often disorganized and dirty. If tools cannot be located in a quick manner, productivity levels drop drastically.

Each type of part should be stored in its own location and should be taken out of their boxes. Aisles should not be cluttered, and shelves should be in good condition so they are not safety hazards. The storeroom should be tidy, clean of spills and dust-free.

Proper Inventory Management and MRO Inventory Performance

Another critical part of an efficient storeroom is having supplies stocked, which involves
having a proper inventory management system in place. This highlights one of the major
problems when it comes to MRO management: failure to tightly measure and monitor
supplies in the same way that other inventory is tracked and controlled.

This might include tracking lubricants, cleaning supplies, office supplies or even furniture. However, these supplies are not tracked with the same attention to detail when they should be. It is a common occurrence for excess supplies to simply be lying on a skid without any pertinent information attached to it, like a locator system or how much of the supply is being used.

To remedy this common MRO problem, businesses should consider having a supplier
come in and take inventory of parts and replenish as necessary. Supplies make up a
significant cost and therefore should be tracked and controlled. You will simply be left with a monthly invoice. Not only will an inventory management system ensure that you don’t run out of supplies, but it will also reduce unnecessary purchase orders and therefore lead to a lot of savings.

In short, MRO supplies should be tracked and managed.Hhaving a third party do this allows staff to focus their valuable time elsewhere. This management system will also ensure that excess inventory isn’t simply lying out on skids and waiting to become a safety hazard.

Additionally, this trackable information should be the basis for MRO Inventory Performance, and should be provided to management on a monthly basis so that they can evaluate and make adjustments to the budget as necessary, leading to increased savings. For example, if usage is measured, purchase orders will be kept to a minimum.

Central Location of Inventory and Removal of Individual Inventory

Another common issue when it comes to MRO issues is the fact that the necessary
supplies to carry out MRO tasks cannot be located. In fact, often this is more of a problem than having a lack of supplies. Tracking supplies and/or having them in an organized location, which the supplier will take of, will ensure that they are easily accessible. This will also ensure that emergency supplies do not have to be expedited at a high cost.

A secondary problem as it relates to the location of inventory is in relation to certain
individuals keeping private inventory for their own use.That is, they keep their supplies
hidden from others so that they can get items more easily.

However, this is very costly to any business. All inventory should be in a central location that is easily and openly accessible to all parties.

Computerized Maintenance Management Systems

In addition to having an organized and stocked space, computerized maintenance
management systems can help businesses remember to schedule necessary time for
maintenance of machines, both preventive and predictive. The lack of these systems in
place is another issue when it comes to MRO issues.

Preventing any machines from going into unscheduled disrepair (and avoiding unplanned downtime) will ultimately ensure that productivity levels are maximized and that lost revenue from unexpected downtime does not affect the business. This is extremely important when you consider that it can go on to significantly affect profit and customer’s views of your business.

Education for MRO Staff

MRO staff should have the option to attend seminars on MRO management. This
education might include supply chain information, for example, but in general it is a way
for MRO staff to become knowledgeable about the best practices of MRO management.
Over time, the following tools will make MRO management much more efficient and will allow your company to increase overall profitability.

The torque wrench is probably the most important tool for professionals working in industries such as aerospace, automotive and industrial, who are responsible for securing critical parts to exact tolerances with zero margin for error.

Choosing a reliable torque wrench will not only help you perform the basic fastening job. It will also provide the peace of mind that everything was done according to required specifications.

What Is a Torque Wrench?

A torque wrench is a precision instrument used to apply an exact amount of torque to a fastener. Once the desired torque value has been achieved, the operator is notified through a visual and/or audible alert, thus preventing under or over torqueing.

Choosing the appropriate torque wrench for your specific needs requires a good understanding of the options available, your usage requirements, maintenance, and re-calibration.

Pre-set versus Adjustable Torque Wrenches

If you are working on an application that requires torqueing to a specific value that remains constant, then a pre-set torque wrench is a good choice. Pre-set torque wrenches are factory-calibrated to a specific value. Once this value has been reached, it becomes impossible to apply additional torque.

Pre-set torque wrenches are used to prevent operator adjustment of the torque settings.  If your project requires a change in the torque value, the manufacturer can re-set the wrenches to the new value. Pre-set torque wrenches are also ideal in assembly line environments or applications where the wrench will only be used in a single repeated application.

Adjustable torque wrenches offer the operator flexibility in setting the desired torque value according each specific application. These torque wrenches feature a scale, usually expressed in imperial and metric values.

The most commons scales are inch/pound, foot/pound and newton/meter. Regardless of scale adjustable torque wrenches allow the selection of desired torque value within a lower and upper limit, in specific increments.

For example, a torque wrench with a capacity of 30-250 ft/lb, with 1 lb increment will accommodate torque values between 30 ft/lbs and 250 ft/lbs, in increments of 1 lb.

Torque Wrench Styles

Click-type torque wrenches are the most commonly used type of torque wrench. They have the same functionality as a ratchet, with the added advantage of a distinct breaking action when the desired torque value has been achieved.

Available torque values are displayed on a dual scale (metric, expressed in Newton Meters, and Imperial expressed in foot/pound or inch/pound) on the barrel of the tool. Torque wrench capacity is indicated by the minimum and maximum value on the scale. The operator sets the desired torque value by unlocking the wrench and twisting the handle, which moves a precision indicator along the scale.

Just like a ratchet, the head of click-type torque wrenches houses the gear and paw mechanism. The repetitive force applied to its mechanism leads to the need for regular maintenance and re-calibration.

Dial-Type torque wrenches are considered the most accurate torque wrenches available.

These wrenches feature a double-end square drive that can be used for both tightening and loosing fasteners. The torque value is displayed on an easy-to read, analog, dual-scale dial (hence their name). Inside the dial, there are two memory needles. The first needle is set to the desired torque setting while the second needle is set to zero. As torque force is applied, the second needle moves along the dial. When the two needles meet, the desired torque has been met.

Due to their simpler torque mechanism, dial-type torque wrenches do not require as much maintenance and re-calibration as the click-type torque wrenches. Most models feature an audio-visual alert that signals the operator when the target torque is achieved.

Dial-type torque wrenches are widely used in quality control applications, to ensure the actual torque applied in the production process complies with the stated specifications.

Electronic torque wrenches have become very popular in recent years and are now available in traditional and dial type design shapes. They use an electronic sensor to measure torque and display the torque value on a digital display. An audible and visual indicator informs the user that they are approaching the desired torque value, and when the exact value has been reached.

Electronic torque wrenches provide the option to download the information into a computer via a wired or Bluetooth connection for future reference.

Digital torque wrenches are very accurate instruments. However, their more delicate construction requires extra care while handling. They also require batteries in order to operate.

Digital torque wrenches are the most expensive of styles noted in this article however they can be considered 4 torque wrenches in one, due to their ability to set torque values in four scales; ft/lbs, in/lbs, Nm and kg./cm.

Electronic torque wrenches are ideal in automotive and transportation settings as they can be linked to hardware such as laptops, tablets and printers. In many heavy truck repair environments it is mandatory that printed proof of wheel torque adjustments be available as part of certified repair service.

Beam torque wrenches are the most simplistic torque wrenches available. They are difficult to read and the least accurate. Consequently, they have virtually been eliminated from use in professional working environments.

Factory Certificate of Calibration - A Must Have Document

A torque wrench should include a certificate of factory calibration proving the tool has been inspected and tested at the manufacturer’s facility prior to final packaging and is within the stated accuracy range. Torque wrenches with missing or expired certificates of calibration should never be used.

For critical applications you should invest in third party calibration and certification that will provide piece of mind the torque wrench is properly calibrated.

In many companies and industries quality processes such as ISO demand and specify scheduled calibration intervals. In sensitive industries such as aviation and transportation, daily checks of each onsite torque wrench’s tolerance are conducted.

A valid certificate of calibration should include the following information:

• Torque wrench type, manufacturer, model number, and range
• Calibration equipment used to perform the calibration and its date of last calibration
• Torque reading clockwise and counter clockwise (if applicable)
• Calibration date
• Name of the person who performed the calibration and his/her supervisor
• A statement indicating that the torque wrench was calibrated to meet the accuracy in specifications as stated in ASME B107.14M-1994, GGG-W-686, Type 2, Class A Style 1, 2 and ISO 6789.
• A premium quality torque wrench will also include text indicating the wrench was calibrated on a torque standard traceable to the National Institute of Standards & Technology (N.I.S.T).

As a general rule of thumb all torque wrenches should be re-calibrated at least once per year or every 5000 cycles. More frequent calibration is strongly suggested if the tool is used regularly. As torque wrenches are stored in their protective cases at their lowest setting when they leave the factory the one year calibration guideline does begin until the tool’s first use.

Every torque wrench operator has to be able to present a valid certificate of calibration whenever required. This document becomes an important piece of evidence that will prove the operator took all the necessary precautions and worked with proper tools, in the event of an unexpected failure.

Torque Wrench Selection Checklist

With the fundamentals of torque wrench types and styles covered the next step is choosing the ideal torque wrench(es) that best suit your application. An important step is determining your needs. The list below is  an excellent guide:

•  do you need to tighten fasteners to multiple or single torque values

• what is the lowest and highest torque value you will be setting fasteners to
• what drive size are the sockets you will most commonly be using (¼ ", ⅜”, ½”, ¾” or 1”)
• do you need the torque wrench to operate clockwise and counter clockwise directions
• what level of precision do you require; expressed as accuracy +/-

The most important consideration in the selection process is understanding the torque range you will most commonly be working within. Torque wrenches work best within 40-80% of their working scale.

Therefore, do not choose a wrench that will be primarily used at the bottom or top end of the scale. You may be tempted to do so to save money but inaccurate torque output could be serious outweighing any savings.

Do’s and Don’ts of Torque Wrench Use and Maintenance

Good quality torque wrenches are an important investment for any professional user. Due to their role in ensuring critical parts are properly fastened proper use and maintenance is required. Here are some things you need to take into account:

• Never use a torque wrench with missing or expired certificate of calibration.
• Never use a torque wrench to break fasteners loose.
• Always perform the preventive maintenance required by the manufacturer.
• Never set the wrench at values higher or lower than those indicated on the scale.
• When not in use, clean and keep the torque wrench in its storage case at its lowest torque setting.
• Handle the torque wrench with care. Dropping a torque wrench will cause loss of calibration.
• Never disassemble a torque wrench yourself. Repair and re-calibration should only be done by an accredited laboratory, as per manufacturer’s instructions.
• If you buy a used torque wrench, properly calibrate it before the first use.
• Never exceed the rated torque of the tool as over torquing will result in wrench or part failure.
• Do not use a cheater bar or any other type of extension on the handle to apply extra torque. If extra torque is required consider a larger torque wrench of the use of torque multiplier

 With proper care and maintenance, a torque wrench should provide reliable service for many years.

Millwrights are an elite group of craftsmen who work primarily in metal and with equipment and machinery requiring precision. Nearly every industry requires millwrights, including energy, automotive, refinery, manufacturing, transportation, food processing, pharmaceutical, nuclear, and postal service.

Becoming a professional millwright means joining one of the oldest and most respected trades in the world. If you like working with machines, precision instruments, and tools, and have a keen eye for perfect assemblies, then you have the basic skills to build a stable career for a lifetime.

So, what does a millwright do?

The work of a millwright involves installing, maintaining, diagnosing, and repairing industrial machines that typically cost millions. They work on pumps, compressors, conveyors, turbines, monorails, extruders, and mining equipment using a combination of hand and power tools, including welding equipment.

A millwright may be required to adjust a machine’s calibration for a fraction of a millimetre and increase the productivity of a machine by 20 percent.

Generally, millwrights are conversant with machinery, tool boxes, and power tools, and know how to work with safety as a top priority.

Starting a Career as a Millwright

 When it comes to working as a millwright, there are  many skills that matter. As a physical job, the applicant’s physical skills matter, but equally important are the candidate’s thinking and communication skills. To get a head start on becoming a millwright, consider taking classes in drafting, mathematics, mechanical drawing, CAD, industrial arts, and enrolling in an industrial shop.

 But the actual first step to becoming a millwright is joining an apprentice program, such as that offered by the UBC in North America. When you find an employer to hire you, you can then register as an apprentice, and complete an apprenticeship application/agreement with your employer, which requires information and a signature from both parties. If the apprentice is not a Canadian citizen, a work or study permit will also be required.

An apprentice is essentially a person going through the process of training and acquiring job experience on the path to becoming a skilled millwright. The apprentice is required to attend classroom lessons for a minimum of 1,600 hours per year, as well as on-the-job tuition under the surveillance and guidance of skilled workers of that trade, referred to as journeymen.

The typical length of an apprentice program is four years, with 80 percent of the time spent learning practical on-the-job skills under supervision, and the remaining 20 percent learning the theoretical and technical aspects of the trade. The training is free – and with pay. So, apprentices learn a trade and earn a decent income – simultaneously.  

Upon the successful completion of all the technical and practical requirements of the apprenticeship program, signified by a score of 70 percent or more in the final examination, the apprentice receives a Certificate of Qualification confirming their status as a journeyman. At this point, the journeyman also qualifies for inter-provincial or “Red Seal” standing that allows the individual to work across Canada where the “Red Seal” certificate is recognized.

Exception to Becoming a Millwright

It is a requirement that you complete an apprenticeship program before becoming an apprentice. However, if the applicant is already working as a non-unionized millwright, or if the applicant has come from another country with different policies regarding apprenticeship, the applicant may be allowed to use their training or work experience towards certification (in order to become a union member).

Job Expectations

Millwrights typically work 8-hour shifts, except when there’s a machinery breakdown, overtime work, or traveling long distances when splitting shifts may be required.

Apprentices must be prepared to work in any condition: wet or dry, clean or dirty, hot or cold, inside or outside. It is a physical job with plenty of lifting, pushing, pulling, and bending, though apprentices are trained on how to perform these tasks safely before attempting anything like that on a job site. In fact, a millwright must have the right safety attire when going to a work site, including safety glasses, hard hats, safety shoes, and durable clothing.

Salary Expectations

Millwrights are typically paid by the hour, and as union members, they get either time-and-a-half or double-time for all work done beyond the required eight hours.

From the first day of apprenticeship, one can earn a good wage and benefits. Apprentices also get regular raises, usually every six months, until they reach the full journeyman scale at the end of the apprenticeship program.

Some benefits of this approach include:

•  Zero school loans or tuition to pay back
• Opportunity to earn while you learn – Since apprentices start earning a wage immediately
• Pay raises – Apprentices earn more and more money as they progress through the program
• Benefits – Health and retirement benefits start right away for the apprentice and his family

Job Security

Professional millwrights are members of the United Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiners of America (UBC) – an organization that has given many men and women an exceptional quality of life since 1881.

From the first day of apprenticeship, millwrights work for a union contractor under the protection of a union contract that outlines the working conditions, wages, and benefits. In fact, there’s a UBC local in every area whose job is to ensure that all millwrights keep working.

Since its launch in 1912, the Gray brand has enjoyed the support of its loyal fans through the ups and downs of the last century.

The Gray Loyalty Club, launched March 1st, is our way of showing our appreciation. All you have to do to start collecting points and redeem for rewards is open an account on ShopGrayTools.com.

How To Collect Points

The new rewards program allows registered customers to earn Gray points for activities performed on ShopGrayTools.com. Currently there are 3 activities users can collect points for:

Opening an account on ShopGrayTools.com has two benefits: it automatically enrolls you in the program, and your account is topped up with 200 points. In addition, you will be able to see your order history, pending orders, and access the Loyalty Panel to check you point balance and redeem them for rewards.

Those of you who already have an account were allocated the 200 points retroactively.

Purchases made on ShopGrayTools.com are awarded  5 points for every dollar spent (before taxes). During the year our members will have the chance to participate in special events, that will allow the collection of Gray points at faster rate. 

Again, we thought about our existing customers who already made purchases online. Although the program was only launched in March, existing customers have been allocated an initial number of points, to reward their past purchases.

Friend referrals are rewarded with 1000 points. These points are allocated when the referred friend makes a minimum $50 purchase on our online store.

The Best Part-The Rewards

Gray points can be redeemed for online discounts.

For example, 2500 points can be redeemed for a $25 discount, while 10 000 points will get you $100 off your next purchase.

Throughout the year we will be adding new and exciting rewards. All members will be notified via email when new limited-time or permanent rewards are available.

Your Questions Answered

For those interested in the program, here is the answer to some questions you might have:

Q: Who can join the Gray Loyalty Club?
A: Anyone with an account on ShopGrayTools.com is automatically enrolled.

Q: How do I earn Gray Points?
A: You can earn Gray Points on purchases you make on ShopGrayTools.com, and other activities, including referring our online store to friends. To see all the ways you can earn points click the *Earn Points* tab in the menu.

Q: What is the Loyalty Panel?
A: Your personalized Loyalty Panel automatically appears once you login to your account. It shows your point balance, how to earn more Gray points and the available rewards.

Q: How do I view my point balance?
A: Your point balance is displayed on every page of ShopGrayTools.com in the top bar once you log in to your account. The Loyalty Panel also shows your point balance in the top left corner.

Q: How do I redeem my points?
A: Click on the*Get Rewards* tab to see the available rewards. If you have enough points, you can redeem them for a reward.

Q: Is there a limit to the number of points I can earn?
A: No. Go ahead and earn as many as you can!

Q: What do the 'approved', 'pending' and 'cancelled' statuses mean?
A: **Approved:** These points can be redeemed on rewards immediately
**Pending:** These points are need to be verified before you can redeem them. The review process takes up to 10 days.
**Cancelled:** These points will not be added to your account. For example, this will happen if you cancel a purchase (the points will change from pending to cancelled).

Q: What happens if a friend I refer cancels or returns their order?
A: Your pending points will be cancelled and removed from your account.

Q: Why did my account balance go down?
A: In most cases, this happens because you or someone you referred, cancelled or returned a purchase. You will be able to track your activity by clicking on the *History* tab in your Loyalty Panel.

Q: I completed an activity but did not earn points!
A: It can sometimes take a few minutes for us to process your activity and update your points.

Q: Can I use my points during checkout?
A: Not directly. You will have to redeem your points for a voucher, which can then be applied during checkout. To see how you can use your points, click on the *Get Rewards* tab in your Loyalty Panel. You can only use a single voucher per purchase.

Q: Can I combine discount codes at checkout?
A: You will be able to use only one discount code per order.
 
Q: Can points be transferred to someone else?
A: The points you earned cannot be transferred to a different account.

Q: Can I earn points shopping elsewhere?
A: You will earn points only for purchases made on ShopGrayTools.com

Q: How do I leave the program?
A: If you no longer wish to earn points, please contact us at info@graytools.com and ask for your account to be deleted. Any points you have accumulated will be lost. Any points earned cannot be transferred prior to account termination.

Q: What happens if I leave and decide to join again?
A: Just contact us at info@graytools.com and we will re-enroll you. However, your point total will begin from zero.

Q: Where can I report a problem or give feedback?
A: Please contact us at info@graytools.com

Punches and chisels have been in use for centuries. In fact, next to striking tools they are likely the oldest tools in the history of humanity.

In prehistoric times these tools were used for performing survival tasks such as carving wood, forming stone, and preparing and fabricating clothing.

Today hand held punches and chisels are used for removing pins and bushings, and cutting or splitting steel objects.

The words punch and chisel are often used generically; a close examination shows there are many types, shapes, designs and specific functions for these tools.

In this article, we will explore the different kinds available on the market today.

Punches

Punches can be classified into two distinct types: hollow and solid.

Hollow punches are designed to puncture a surface, such as sheet metal or leather in order to create a hole. A hollow punch is easily identified by its "exit hole" located near the working end. The exit hole allows the punched material to be removed and discarded.

The working end can vary in shape and size depending on the hole required and the material being pierced. To protect the working end, it is recommended that a board made of either wood or plastic be placed between work surface and material being pierced. This board should be strong enough to protect the work surface and yet soft enough to prevent the working end from being damaged.

Solid punches are one-piece rod-shaped tools made of metal designed to be struck by a hammer. They are typically used to drive objects such as pins or to form impressions on a work piece.

Solid punches can vary in diameter, length and tip depending on the job to be performed. Below is a brief description and characteristics of the most common solid punches.

Pin Punches-used to drive or remove pins, after been loosened by a taper punch.

Pin punches feature a long head the same diameter as the tip and meant for removing tension or solid pins. Care must be taken when selecting a pin punch.

The ideal size for a given project is one where the tip is smaller than the encasing hole yet large enough to make solid contact with the pin to be removed or driven.

Pilot Punches-also, known as roll pin punches, they are designed to drive or remove hollow tension pins, such as tapered & rolled or solid pins.

They feature a similar long head like a pin punch with the difference being that they have slight bump at the tip permitting insertion into a rolled pin.

Taper Punches-designed for loosening and driving pins. Taper punches can also be used to align existing holes in two or more work pieces prior to bolting or riveting.

Centre Punches-used to make a mark on a material where a hole will be drilled. When struck, a small indentation is made in the work piece.

The indentation allows a drill bit to pierce the material more easily, while preventing bit walking and possible marring of the work piece.

Prick Punches-essentially the same as the center punch only it is designed for use on soft materials such as wood, plastics, and thin sheet metal. Can also be used to scribe marking lines prior to cutting or riveting.

Aligning Punches-used to align two or more holes in order to permit the insertion of a fastener. Their tapered body shape allows holes to easily be gathered and aligned as the punch is inserted. This punch is not meant to be struck and therefore not recommended for driving pins, rivets, or bolts.

Using the correct punch style for the application goes a long way in maintaining its useful life.

The most common mistake mechanics make is grabbing a pin punch to break loose a pin when the proper tool to use would be a tapered punch.

A tapered punch is specifically designed to take the heavy pounding needed to loosen pins.

Using a pin punch to start the initial removal can damage punch and the part being driven. The result is reduced productivity and increased risk to personal safety.

The correct approach for breaking a pin loose is to start with a taper punch then switch to the pin punch to complete the removal.

For this reason, it is highly recommended that mechanics have a matching tapered punch for every pin punch in their toolbox.

Chisels

Like punches, hand tool chisels can be also classified into distinct types: wood, masonry, and metalworking.

For the purposes of this article we will focus on the metalworking chisels. Once again, similar to solid punches, metalworking chisels are one-piece rod shaped tools made of metal designed to be struck by a hammer.They are primarily used to cut or shape metal.

Below is a brief description and characteristics of the most common chisels.

Flat Chisels-the most common of all the metalworking chisels. Often also referred to as cold chisels. Flat chisels feature a flat wide tip (working end) with a cutting edge. The size of the chisel is determined by the width of the tip. Common uses for a flat chisel are breaking chain, removing burrs, and cutting bolts.

Rivet Buster Chisels-share the same characteristics as flat chisels with the exception that the cutting edge is offset not centred. The offset design allows the chisel to lay flat and easily slide under the rivet to be removed.

Diamond-Point Chisels-Get their name from the distinct diamond shaped point. Are designed to punch holes and make V-shaped grooves in sheet steel.

Cape Chisels-feature a narrower cutting edge than flat chisels. Cape chisels are designed to square rounded corners in grooves or cut new grooves with square edges in steel.

Round Nose Chisels-similar to cape chisels, except instead of a straight edge they have a round edge on one side. The round edge allows them to cut grooves with round bottoms.

When used properly metalworking chisels are extremely useful for cutting steel objects and materials.

An important consideration when using any metalworking chisel is to be sure the object(s) being cut or worked is NOT harder than the chisel itself. Otherwise, the chisel’s point will dull or be destroyed.

If that happens, the best way to re-sharpen the chisel is to re-file the cutting edge using a hand file, not a grinder. Using a grinder could result in the chisel losing its temper.

Additional usage considerations include:

•  Ensuring that head diameter of the hammer is never more than 3/8" larger than head of chisel or punch.

• Always use a proper punch or chisel holder. NEVER USE A PAIR OF LOCKING PLIERS as they will create sharp indentations that can endanger a user's hands when handling later on.
• Always wear safety goggles.

Proper Maintenance of Punches and Chisels

Routine maintenance is a very important step in ensuring a long useful life of your punch and chisel.

As striking tools, most punches and chisels are deferentially tempered. That means the striking end is softer than the working end.

As such when any punch or chisel mushrooms on the striking end, it must be dressed to prevent the mushrooming pieces from chipping off and causing harm.

Conversely at the opposite end (working end) maintaining a sharp and clean edge ensures you a have tool that is safe and ready to complete a job properly.

Things Look For When Buying Your Next Punch or Chisel

It wise to consider the steel used as punches and chisels can be made from a variety of different steels each varying in strength and reliability.

A punch or chisel made from premium tool steel and optimally tempered will deliver a tool that has working end that maintains its edge and shape longer and has a striking end that is hard enough to be struck without chipping or cracking.

Additional thoughts:

1. Consider what is being cut or driven and determine the diameters, sizes and shapes needed to complete the project
2. If you are working in or near sparking working environments consider punches and chisels made of brass, copper beryllium or aluminum bronze.

This is an excerpt from the book "Gray Tools-A 100 Year History" written by Alex and Gail Gray.

In 1919, when sales of war machinery to the Canadian government declined, the company turned to selling ball bearings. It was felt that these could be sold into a large segment of the industrial market, since they could be used individually or incorporated into many other devices and machines.

Because of this significant shift in the product line, the company changed its name to better advertise its wares. It was now known as the Gray Ball Bearing Company Limited.

To further increase sales, a second product line was introduced, which included water-supply systems and power pumps that were equipped with high-quality ball bearing to minimize friction.

Other sidelines of the factory included repair work on damaged machines and the manufacturing of any specialized machinery that the engineering department could design and build. No job was too large or too small for the company to handle.

The first hand-tool catalogue was printed in 1922. There were two editions of the catalogue, which were identical except for the cover. The Canadian edition Gray-Toronto was issued by the Gray Ball Bearing Company Limited. The American edition Gray-Batavia was issued by Gray Machine and Parts Corporation of Batavia, New York.

The catalogue listed 302 different hand tools including sockets, wrenches, handles, extension bars, universal joints, and associated parts. In addition, many wrench sets were produced specifically for certain cars made at that time.

For example, set #6038 contained twenty wrenches of different size and shape; this set was to be sold to the garage servicing a Ford car or truck. Set #6039 was to be sold to the Ford car owner and contained four wrenches.

In 1923, the company introduced two major innovations to its manufacturing process. These were well described in the 1924 catalogue:

"In the automotive trade, the majority of the Wrenches used by the garage man require the outside diameter to be as small as possible, so that the wrench socket can reach the nut in the many hard-to-get-at parts of an automobile. This makes the socket wall, of necessity, very thin; therefore the material entering into these Wrenches will be the prime factor in obtaining durability.

We have, after consultation with several of the largest steel mills, decided to manufacture our Wrenches, where the socket wall requires to be particularly thin, from the best steel procurable, viz: Chrome Nickel Steel.

We have further decided to make these wrenches by a Drop Forged Method, which will produce a wrench with no weld, no join, and from one piece of Chrome Nickel Steel. All solid  Socket Wrenches up to and including 3/4-inch opening will be made by this method."

So, by 1927, the company advertised itself as being "manufacturers of Wrenches, Gear and Wheel Pullers, Starting Cranks, Automobile Parts and Heavy Duty Stampings".