Crete-Hersonissos

Hiking Milonas Gorge

noreply@blogger.com (Despina Papadakis) — Mon, 17 Jun 2024 12:39:00 -0700

The Gorge of Milonas is located east of Ierapetra, north of the village of Ferma. It is not a very well-know gorge, and it is tricky to find. The few websites that describe the gorge do not give very accurate information on how to access the gorge.
When we set out for our excursion, we figured that once we got close to the gorge, we would be able to ask one of the locals for exact directions. We stopped at the very first supermarket inside of Ferma and asked for directions. The owners told us that they had no idea, but they knew that the path had been cleared the day before, and they offered to call someone who might know. The woman who they called did not know, but then she offered to call someone else for us and then call us back! When she called back, she told us that the president and vice president of the local cultural association were actually taking a couple of photographers from a travel magazine through the gorge, and would take us with them!
They sent us down the road to the president’s mother’s café to wait. She treated us to drinks while we waited, and then Manolis, the president, came along and picked us up. From there we went just west of the village, and took the first dirt road on the right. After driving up the road for a few miles we came to a spot where you can turn off and park your car instead of continuing up the mountain. From there we could see the beginning of the path into the gorge.
The path is relatively easy to walk, although there are some slippery parts, especially where the dirt is loose. After about 10-15 minutes of walking on the dirt path, we came to some stone water ditches that were built in the 1960’s to carry water from the waterfall. Walking along these was easy, except for a couple spots where small cliffs jutted out. Manolis brought a small ladder so that we could climb down, around, and back up onto the path.
From the start of the path, it took less than 30 minutes to get to the waterfall. Once we arrived, Nikos, the vice-president brought out tsikouthia, orange juice, and fruit and we relaxed and chatted beside the waterfall.

The waterfall forms a small pool which is perfect for taking a dip on a hot day.
Afterward, we returned to the café- I believe it was called Katerina’s. There we were treated to coffee, more tsikouthia, and very tasty cheese pies with honey. I highly recommend stopping here for a bite to eat- in addition to having delicious food, the owners were so warm and friendly and made us feel so welcome!

Manolis and Nikos are working to make the gorge and waterfall more accessible to visitors. They plan to post signs marking the entrance to the gorge. It is a very pleasant walk and the waterfall is absolutely beautiful. If you are ever down in the Ierapetra or Markigialos area, it is definitely worth it to visit Milonas Gorge.

Kourtaliotiko Faraggi and Preveli Faraggi (Gorge)

noreply@blogger.com (Despina Papadakis) — Fri, 8 Jul 2011 09:29:00 -0700

Κουρταλιώτικο φαράγγι

The entrance to the gorge is Gorge is located on the south side of Crete, in the Rethymnon Prefecture. The lower part of the gorge is also know as the Preveli Gorge because it ends at the Preveli palm forest and beach. south of Koxare, which is about 23 kilometers south of Rethymnon. There are steps leading down to a small church situated within the gorge. There is a paved path that you can walk on and enjoy the view of the river and the small waterfalls, but the paved path does not continue through the entire gorge.

Crossing the gorge is not recommended without a group, or at least without an experienced guide. Most of the trek is through the river, and at times the water can reach your shoulders. When the river is high, some parts are too dangerous to cross and an experienced guide will know which spots need to be avoided, and where to take a detour. Also, crossing this gorge requires a great deal of teamwork, especially in the lower section. In addition, there is no bus or taxi service from any entrance or exit point of the gorge, and you can’t just walk back up the way you came- the river will push you the other way. A tour group will have a bus waiting at the other end to pick you up.

If you are going to cross the gorge, keep the following in mind:

You are going to become completely soaked. I purchased a dry sack before the trip, and it was invaluable! I stuck it inside of my backpack, which of course was dripping wet at the end, and everything inside stayed completely dry.

Wear good hiking or tennis shoes, but keep in mind that these will be soaked by the end of your trip.

Also, if you are going to bring a camera (which you should) it MUST be a waterproof one- and you should make sure that it is on a cord that you can wear around your neck because you will need both hands free throughout most of your journey. Some things that should go inside your dry sack include a change of clothes and shoes, a beach towel (for the beach afterward), a bathing suit (if you are not already wearing one), sunscreen, and some snacks.

You should also make sure to have a bottle of water with you- while you are in a river, I’m not sure the water is safe to drink.

Another option for visiting the gorge (without having to wade through the river) is to take a boat from Plakia or Agia Galini to Preveli Beach. From the beach you can walk through the palm forest and into the lower part of the gorge on the path beside the river. The river winds through the beach and ends up in the Libyan Sea. Make sure you come prepared with plenty of sunscreen and a beach umbrella since you will most likely spend the entire day there. Typically the boats drop visitors off in the morning and then return around 5:00 P.M. to pick them up. There is a small snack bar on the beach if you choose not to bring a lunch.

Hiking Richtis Gorge

noreply@blogger.com (Despina Papadakis) — Tue, 5 Jul 2011 12:50:00 -0700

Richtis Gorge is located between Agios Nikolaos and Sitia in northeast Crete. The landscape inside the gorge is so diverse- it feels as though you are walking through a mix of coniferous forest, deciduous forest, and jungle! The highlight of this gorge is the 15 meter waterfall. If you decide to cross the gorge, you will need to wear shoes with good treads- waterproof hiking shoes would be ideal because you will be walking through some streams, but we walked in our tennis shoes and did just fine, although our shoes were completely soaked. You will also need a bathing suit and towel if you are going to swim beneath the waterfall.

You can access the gorge through the top entrance which is just east of Exo Mouliana, or through the entrance at Richtis Beach. Whichever way you go, keep in mind that you will have to hike back the same way you came. There is no public transportation or taxi service to and from the beach entrance.

The top entrance is easy to find- Just after you exit Exo Mouliana, going east toward Sitia, you will see a sign on your left and a parking area. You can park here, but it is quite a walk to the entrance of the gorge. The small paved road that starts at the parking area goes all the way to the entrance. Follow it all the way down, and when you get to the fork in the road take the one on the left. Eventually you will get to an old stone bridge, and there is a clearing to the left of it where you can park your car.

The trail is fairly easy, but there are a few tricky spots where you have to climb over some large boulders. You will also be walking through some streams filled with tadpoles, and over some rocks covered with frogs, so take care not to step on them! The hike to the waterfall from the top entrance of the gorge takes at least one and a half hours.

The hike to the waterfall from the beach entrance takes only about half an hour. The path is just as beautiful, but the drive down to the beach is quite scary if you are afraid of heights. The road to Richtis Beach starts in Exo Mouliana. You will see a sign pointing to the road as you drive through. If you get from one end of the village to the other without seeing it, you have missed the road, so just turn back around. The road down to the beach is very long- I have no idea how many kilometers, you will wind through olive tree farms for quite a while before driving along the cliffs which go down to the beach. Be very careful as you drive on the road here, and honk your horn as you go around turns so cars coming the other way can see you- the road is very narrow and there are no guard rails. As you near the beach you will see the clearly marked bottom entrance of the gorge. You can park your car here and then follow the path. This walk is not only shorter, but it is much easier, with no boulders to maneuver around.

Once you reach the waterfall you can take a swim, and there is a picnic table where you can eat and rest.

Hiking Sarakina Gorge

noreply@blogger.com (Despina Papadakis) — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 04:53:00 -0700

Sarakina Gorge - Entrance

If you are the adventurous type, consider taking a day trip to Sarakina Gorge, which is on the south side of the island, near Ierapetra.

Prepare to take your shoes off to walk through pools of water.

The hike through Sarakina Gorge is difficult at times- it requires climbing over many boulders, and at one point, using a leather strap as a rope swing to propel yourself across a small cliff.

To get to Sarakina Gorge from Hersonissos, take the National Road east, past Agios Nikolaos. Follow this road until you see the signs for Ierapetra. The road to Ierapetra is hard to miss- it is the only main road heading south from that area. Once you reach Ierapetra, follow the signs pointing toward Myrtos, which is three or four villages to the west of Ierapetra. Once in Myrtos, you will take the first main road to the right toward Mithi. After a few minutes you will see a road off to the right with a sign pointing you toward Mithi. Just past the center of the village, you will take a right (there may not be a sign for Sarakina Gorge clearly visible here, but Mithi is tiny, and there is only one road that you can turn right on). From here you will follow the road downhill until you get to a bridge- on the left side of the bridge there is a water treatment plant and a paved parking area. This is the start of Sarakina Gorge. (There is also a small taverna here, but when we visited in June, 2010, it was not open.)

The hike through Sarakina Gorge is difficult at times- it requires climbing over many boulders.

Manolis' Workshop

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 05:40:00 -0700

Today we visited Dad's friend Manolis at his workshop. Manolis makes high quality brass cast sculptures, and my dad is one of his wholesale customers.

Mr. Manolis and his wife welcomed us with great cheer, and I quickly saw that this is a man who loves his work. When he found out that I have a degree in sculpture, he proudly showed me around the shop and explained the casting process. From what I understood (my Greek is still limited) it's as follows:

First, a prototype is commissioned, carved from soapstone; this piece is very detailed, but it is fragile if dropped!
The prototype is laid into a bed of sand, removed, and the molten brass is poured into the depression. This is done for both front and back, and then the two pieces are joined. Then, the edges have to be cleaned and the piece gets sanded and polished. This first casting then becomes the working prototype, and the stone version is put safely away.

Every step of this process is handled with great care-- casting is really not a process to try to undertake unless you are meticulous-- and there is a lot of work involved even after the casting step is complete.

While I've made molds out of plaster and latex, I've never seen one made of sand, and I was grateful to see the process. The amount of detail retained by the sand impression is amazing, and the cast sculptures are beautiful, even more so after Manolis finishes them with an acid oxidation process, adding mottled green and black and brown tones, and finishing with a wax process to make the piece smooth like glass.

After showing me the process, Manolis threw one of the statues on the concrete floor and I startled, but he laughed saying that they never break once cast in brass-- if you burried one today you could dig it up a thousand years from now and it'd be the same. The same for the patina; the color is fast.

Of course, I can't help but entertain the idea of immortalizing one of my own sculptures in bronze... and I am grinning because Manolis has promised to demonstrate casting on one of our next visits!

Here is Manolis at his workbench, buffing away the patina on this sculpture so that the shiny brass surface shows through.

Two large brass helmets with a black patina; they will have more work done to the patina and then they will be polished with wax.

Home at Last

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 11:32:00 -0700

A week ago today I was frantically trying to get to my home town in Ohio, from a wedding three hours away in Michigan, after my car broke down on the way. I had a flight the next day, you see, and I was already going to be getting very little sleep, even without car troubles.
Let's say, hilarity ensued. I got where I needed to get, didn't I? Let's leave it at that and forget it all. Because right now I am sitting with my dad on our porch in Hersonissos, Crete-- my real home town-- and enjoying the clean dry air, and the smell of good food from the restaurant below us, and a glass of Cretan Raki.
I'm going to have a lot to write-- already the things I could tell you! But right now, I just want to relax, and enjoy being home for the first time in six years.

About Hersonissos

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:26:00 -0700

Hersonissos
Prior to 1975 Hersonissos was a tiny village populated by a handful of fishermen and farmers. Today Hersonissos and the nearby villages of Koutouloufari, Piskopiano and Old Hersonissos are the most sought after vacation destinations of the island of Crete.

Hersonissos (Greek for Peninsula) is also called Limani or Limin Hersonissou to distinguish it from the village of Old (or Upper) Hersonissos, which is just a couple of miles away. Limani (or Limin) means harbor, and the name refers to the small harbor that used to shelter local fishing boats and boats that were used to transport local produce to other cities.

During the off-season, Hersonissos has a population of approximately 3000; however, the population increases greatly during the tourist season, when seasonal workers come to work at hotels and other local businesses.

Because of its location in the middle of the Island, about 25 kilometers east of Heraklion and about the same distance west of Aghios Nikolaos, Hersonissos is the ideal place to use as a base to explore the island.

How to get to Hersonissos

If you take the Ferry from Piraeus to Heraklion you can reach Hersonissos by bus. The bus station is about a 5 minute walk from the pier, and there is a bus every 15 minutes during the summer. In the wintertime the busses run less frequently. You can buy your ticket at the bus station or on the bus. The ride is about 30 to 45 minutes long depending on the rout and the stops.
Alternately you can hire a cab or rent a car. The majority of the taxi drivers are honest, hard working people but ask the driver what the fare is going to be so you know what you are going to be paying beforehand.
Another option is to rent a car. Inside the bus terminal there is a tourist information center where you can get information on car rentals.
If you arrive in Heraklion by plane, there is a bus stop just outside the airport. You don’t need to worry about buying a ticket beforehand, as you can buy one on the bus.
Again, you can also take a cab or rent a car from one of the booths at the airport. It's easy to find your way to Hersonissos, and the rent-a-car office will provide you with a map and directions.

A visit to Milatos Cave

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Thu, 9 Jul 2009 00:12:00 -0700

About 15 kilometers from Hersonissos, in the Kastellos Mountain, is the historical cave of Milatos, a site known best for the tragic events that took place there during the Turkish occupation.

On the third of February, 1823, over 2,000 villagers (some sources say there were as many as 3,500 villagers), only
150 of which were armed, fled to the cave to hide from Hassan Pasha's troups, who were approaching from Lassithi on a bloody war path, ruthelessly destroying villages and slaughtering their inhabitants. Upon discovering where the villagers were hiding, Pasha sent 5,000 troops to surrount the cave. The 150 armed men, as well as Cretan rebel soldiers from surrounding villages, valiantly fought to defend the villagers and successfully held back Pasha's troops for nearly two weeks. However, inside the cave, the lack of food and water was taking its toll, and many people died. On the fifteenth of February, starvation forced the villagers to attempt a daring escape. Unarmed and weak, they stood no chance against Pasha's troops, and they were brutally massacred. Many were slaughtered or trampled to death as they attempted to flee from the cave. Those who were captured were later beheaded or burned to death. According to some sources, some of the captured women and children were sold into slavery.

From the road leading up to the cave you can see the village of Milatos.

A sign marks the beginning of the path one must follow, by foot, to reach the cave.

The view is breathtaking going up the steps toward the cave, which sits on the side of a gorge.

The entrance- it is dark inside, so make sure you bring a flashlight. The ceiling of the cave is low in the front chamber, and you will need to bend over to avoid hitting your head.

To the right of the entrance, is a larger chamber with a higher ceiling. The church of St. Thomas was built inside this section in 1935 to commemorate those that died during the massacre.

Hiking Imbross Gorge

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 00:41:00 -0700

Crete is home to many gorges most of which can be hiked. Samaria Gorge, the longest in Europe (16 km) is no doubt the most challenging gorge to walk. A shorter, less challenging alternative is Imbros Gorge, which runs parallel to Samaria. Following the Battle of Crete during World War II, thousands of Allied troops walked through Imbros gorge to reach Hora Sfakion, where they were evacuated to Egypt.

Imbros Gorge is 7 km long and can be walked in 2-3 hours. It starts at the village of Imbros and ends just outside the village of Komitades. Before heading out on your hike, make sure to stop at one of the tavernas in Imbros to boost your energy with a famous "Sfakiani Pita" (a sweet cheese pie covered with honey) and a glass of fresh squeezed orange juice.

From the village of Imbros you will see signs directing you toward the entrance to the gorge, which is about 1 km from the main village. You must pay a fee to enter the gorge, but it is only about 2 euro.

Upon entering the gorge one of the first things you will notice is the aroma of wild sage, which you will smell throughout your entire walk. After about an hour of walking, you will reach the narrowest and most spectacular part of the gorge.

Here, the gorge is only 2 meters wide in some spots, and you will feel like you are walking through a tunnel.

Once you pass the narrowest point, you may find that you have company- the goats, owned by local shepherds are quite used to visitors passing through, and while they won't let you get close enough to pet them, they will pose for a picture or two.

Near the village of Komitades, the gorge widens and is filled with trees.

Once you exit the gorge you will see a couple of small snack bars where you can hire a "taxi" to take you back to your car in Imbros. These "taxis" are driven by the local villagers- you may find yourself riding back up the mountain in the back of a pickup truck!

Trip to Agia Galini and Agio Pavlo

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 01:58:00 -0700

The village of Agia Galini, located on Crete's south coast can be reached in about 2 hours by car from Hersonissos. It is from a cave in this seaside village that, according to Greek Mythology, Icarus and Daedalus took flight to escape from King Minos.

If you walk along the port of Agia Galini, you will have a wonderful view of the village.

From the main part of the village, you can follow a paved path to a pebbly beach. Here you can cool yourself off in the clear blue Libyan sea, or enjoy a nice meal at one of the tavernas.

On the west side of the village, behind the port, you can fish, like Manos here, or explore the caves, which are accessible only by water.

If you feel adventurous drive west from Ag. Galini through the villages of Melabes, Sakturia to Agios Pavlos. If you run out of gas you can buy it from the Kaffenio!! (Coffee shop, Melabes) The owner of the kaffenio sells gasoline in four liter containers, and fills your tank using a funnel and a section of a garden hose!

The road winds up to the top of the mountain and then down to the cove. The reward: a secluded small cove with a sandy beach.

After swimming, or climbing the steep steps up the cliff to take some amazing photographs, you can relax and have a snack, drink or ice cream at the kaffenio, which is the only business in the area.

Trip to Moni Toplou-Vai

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 08:26:00 -0700

Hersonissos is an ideal starting point for those wishing to take a day trip. Many of the island's most beautiful destinations are less than three hours away by car. A drive east along Crete's northern coast will take you to Vai, the only palm tree forest in Europe.
The forest consists of over 5,000 date palms.

Outside of the village of Kavousi is the church of Agioi Pantes. Across the street is a nice cafe to stop at and take pictures- it overlooks Mochlos village and the small island of Psira.

This is the island of Psira. The island in uninhabited now, but was a major harbor during the Minoan era. To visit the island, you can take a boat tour from the city of Agios Nikolaos.

The Monastery Toplou, which owns Vai forest, is worth a visit if you have the time. Inside the monastery is a museum in which you can see paintings dating as far back as the 15th century, copper etchings, historical documents, and war relics. The cost to enter is 3 euro (in 2009).

At the fork in the road leading to Vai forest and beach, there is a fruit stand where farmer Nikos, a retired naval captain, sells bananas, figs, and various other fruit. If you get lost and need directions, he's the man to go to- he is fluent in at least five different languages!

Vai forest and beach are protected areas. Vai beach is very clean and the water is crystal clear. There is a nice little cafe on the beach where you can eat, or get carry-out to eat on the beach. There are also a few shops and smaller food stands in the surrounding parking area. Parking is reasonably priced (2 euro per car in 2009; van parking is a little bit more expensive).

In addition to Vai beach, there are many more little sandy coves in the area. Some are accessible by car, and others only by foot.

Saint George street (Saradari)

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Sat, 6 Jun 2009 23:45:00 -0700

Waiting for the big one!...

The picturesque Church of Saint George.

Panoramic view of Saradari beach.

You are right!... Saradari is the nudist beach!

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Tue, 26 May 2009 02:10:00 -0700

Aghias Paraskevis street early in the morning...

In the early morning hours cats rule the village! This one is in the center of his kingdom.

Aghia's Paraskevis church is perched on the hill on the north side of the harbor- A favorite place for baptisms and weddings.

An early morning stroll down the street.

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Sun, 24 May 2009 05:09:00 -0700

If you get up early enough you can buy fresh fish from the local fishermen. In the photo, Fanouris, an old friend and fisherman is showing a red "skorpidi".

"OK! Go ahead... shoot it! This is my best pose but I can't hold it much longer..."
Vasilis is setting up shop early in the morning. Beach chairs and umbrellas must be ready for that luxurious body roast and cooling later at the day.

May in Hersonissos

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Sun, 17 May 2009 02:33:00 -0700

May is my favorite month in Hersonissos. The weather is just right. It may be a little cool at night but not cold, and during the day it is sunny and warm enough days to take a dip in the ocean.

The water is crystal clear and very inviting...

Along the shore, the beach boys set up beach chairs for a long luxurious body roast, and umbrellas to cool down under when you can't take the roasting any longer...
May is a slow month; the beaches are not crowded, so you have plenty of room for yourself. Enjoy!

A whole beach to herself!!

About Hersonissos

noreply@blogger.com (Yiannis) — Sun, 10 May 2009 23:36:00 -0700

Hersonissos was my home from 1977 to 1995. During that time, as an entrepreneur myself, I was able to watch the baby steps of her development, progress, and
prosperity.

During the early years, there were only three large hotels: Creta Maris, Nora, and the Belvedere; as well as a few smaller, family-run hotels. Like a heart pumping blood through veins, they brought the village to life, energizing its streets with bustling vacationers.

During this time, the majority of the tourist activity took place on the street of Agias Paraskevis, the winding path from the main road to the beach. The number of businesses on the street was so small that one could count them on two hands.

Most of the tourist shops that line the street today are specialized, but back then they all served as both general stores and souvenir shops, and all sold similar items.
Two items that come to mind that were popular, and no longer widely available these days are the huge, one meter tall ceramic vases and the woolen knit white pullover jackets. Both were a must-have in every store and they sold like crazy. The former, however, gave headaches to the flight attendants on the airplanes who had to try to store them safely in the cramped overhead bins; the latter caused the wearer to itch like mad, but since it was in style, the discomfort was endured for the sake of fashion. In addition to the itchiness, the wool stretched with each wear, and it even seemed to stretch on its own just by hanging in the closet; many disappointed tourists found that the jacket they bought at the beginning of their vacation had transformed to a long coat by the end!

Note

There will be more on the subject, in the mean time if you have any memories of Hersonissos that you would like to share, we love to hear from you.