There are many ways to propagate orchids, and some are more difficult than others.  Orchids can be propagated by division, seed or cloning.  They can also be propagated sexually or asexually or by tissue culture.  The easiest way to propagate an orchid is by division if the orchid grows from a horizontal pseudobulb.  These types of orchids include the Cattleya, Cymbidium and Laelia.  These types of orchids should be removed from their pots, then you need to carefully cut off dead roots with a sharp sterile knife, then divide the bulb. It is ideal to plant at least three bulbs in a pot and try to save the original bulb as well.

What are backbulbs?  These are the older pseudobulbs that would have been removed during the division process.   Often they look as though they have died, however, you can sometimes bring them back to life by dipping the bulb in a rooting hormone.  Afterwards you need to set the bulb in a tray of sphagnum moss.  It is important to keep the moss moist.  The tray needs to be kept fairly warm where temperatures are at least 65 degrees F.  You could even create an additional “greenhouse” by wrapping the tray inside a plastic bag to trap the humidity.  Usually the backbulbs resprout within two months.

The Dendrobium orchid can be propagated by layering.  For this method, cut a piece of the stem with a pseudobulb present.  Cut near the roots.  Keep in a tray of moist moss and it is best if partially covered.  Keep the temperature high.  Small plantlets referred to as keikis will sprout along the stem. (Keiki means “baby” or “child” in the Hawaiian language.  Hawaii is one of the largest producers of orchids in the world.)

Phalaenopsis is one of the more common orchids, often sold commercially in stores.  On this type of plant, a small “keiki” usually grows on the mother plant.  Leave them be until they are large enough to have developed their own roots.  Gently slice them off and pot them on their own.

Starting orchids from seeds can be challenging because the seeds are so tiny, and they can easily travel in the wind.  It can be difficult to get them to germinate.  You must use mycorrhizal fungus as food for the seed.  Because of the high sterile conditions required, usually only specialists and experts grow orchids from seeds.

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The greenhouse glazing is the material that the greenhouse walls are made of.  You can help minimize heat loss by selecting the best glazing possible.  Fivewall polycarbonate is 16mm thick and is the best glazing material on today’s market.  The next best is double tempered glass, followed by twinwall polycarbonate, and lastly, single tempered glass.

Depending on your climate, most of us have to add some form of supplemental heat into the greenhouse to sustain temperatures of at least 45 degrees F.  Depending on the plants or flowers in your greenhouse, you may require warmer temperatures.  Most plants grow best at temperatures between 45 degrees F and 75 degrees F (or 10 – 24 degrees C).

You may want to consider having your north wall, a solid wall.  If you cannot build a solid wall, then it is best to insulate this wall as much as possible.  The reason why the north wall is best for this, is because this side of the greenhouse receives the lowest amount of sunlight (unless you live south of the equator).

Consider wrapping a 3mm thick plastic (found in big box hardware stores) on the inside of the greenhouse to create an additional barrier.  Be sure to seal any cracks.

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One of the major considerations before purchasing a greenhouse is deciding if it should be a free standing model, or one that attaches to an existing wall of your home, garage, barn or any other building.  There are pros and cons for each option that should be considered.

Pros for a Free Standing Greenhouse

– You can choose from a large selection of greenhouses that include shape, roof pitch, size and style.  If you are interested in a larger sized unit, you may be required to get a permit for the greenhouse.  Call your local city/town department and ask what the permit requirements are for your area.

– You can locate the greenhouse wherever you like — southern exposure is best.

– You can add on to the structure in the future (this is not true for all greenhouses, but some companies allow for future expansion).

– You can landscape around the greenhouse and ensure that it is placed close to outdoor gardens, cold frames or compost areas.

– The roof can be oriented to receive the maximum amount of sun throughout the day.

Cons for a Free Standing Greenhouse

– You must consider power and water lines.  If you are too far away from your house, you will need to trench lines under ground.

– In snowy climates, you will have to make your way through snow to get to the greenhouse.

– Heat loss is greater in a free standing greenhouse.

– A greenhouse that is located too far away from your home may attract intruders.

Pros for a Lean-to Home Attached Greenhouse

– The lean-to can attach to your home, and also act as a sunroom or conservatory.

– Because the greenhouse attracts sun, on structure may even help to heat up your home during winter months.

– Hooking up electricity and water lines is much easier.

– It is easily accessible to enter the lean-to.

Cons for a Lean-to Home Attached Greenhouse

– The lean-to must be placed against a south, west or east wall to receive maximum sun.

– Dimensions may be limited, and you may be required to get custom measurements.  Custom greenhouses are more expensive than purchasing standard sizing.

– The lean-to may drain heat from your home on colder nights.

– Greenhouse odors can permeate into your home.  Although sweet smelling flowers would be a welcome odor!

– You must be sure you are not creating any snow traps with the roof line of the lean-to.

– You will likely need a permit and the lean-to must be built to certain codes.

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Whatever you can grow on a vine, do it.   Cucumbers and tomatoes are easily grown this way, and will give you a larger yield.  Be sure you get the proper vine plants, or vining won’t work.  Cucumbers need 12′ to 20′ in height to grow and tomatoes need about 10′.  You can buy special seeds to grow these veggies in vines.

Another way to utilize the upper space in your greenhouse is with hanging baskets.  Be sure that your greenhouse can support the weight.  A good greenhouse should be able to support 50 lbs every two feet.

Shelving can also be placed on your side walls containing plants.

Most people need to use every square inch they possibly can in the greenhouse, so don’t make the mistake of overlooking all that air space above you!

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When it comes to growing veggies, flowers and seedlings, why not grow them right out of the soil bag?  Take a large bag of potting soil mix.  Handle the bag and break up the soil within as much as possible.  Place the bag on the greenhouse floor or bench.  Slice the top of the bag off, leaving about a 4″ border around the top of the bag.  Break up the soil and loosen it as much as possible.  Punch several holes on the back side of the bag to allow for good drainage.

Now you are ready to begin planting seeds into the soil bag.  It is ideal to plant spinach, herbs, lettuce and even radishes into the soil bag.  Be sure to follow the directions for seeds on the seed packet.   Care and water as instructed on the seed package.  Note:  When your crops are ready to be picked, do not take the pluck the plants right out of the bag.  Instead, cut off the spinach, lettuce and herbs, and then watch as they re-grow…you’ll have continuous salad greens all summer long!

If you don’t have a greenhouse, or prefer to garden outdoors in summer months, then you can place the grow bag on a table top.  Wire top is best to allow for drainage.  It also saves your back, as you don’t have to bend down to the ground to work on your plants.  Some shading will likely be required, as spinach and lettuce are cold crops and will burn on hot sunny days.

Check around your garage and shed.  What else do you have that could be used to house your garden…some people have used small kiddie pools that are no longer in use.  Reusable bags, old boots, wheelbarrows and just about any other container you can think of will also work for these types of crops.

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