Greenwood Nursery & Gardens

Landscape tips for a faster home sale

2009-06-29T10:40:00.001-07:00

If you are hoping to sell your house during these challenging economic times, remember the old saying: you never get a second chance to make a first impression.

When it comes to real estate, that’s always been true. But in a tough economy, there are more houses than usual on the market and fewer buyers. Those buyers that are out there are almost spoiled for choice: a large number of available homes, probably offered at fairly competitive prices.

To make matters worse, slow home sales mean that houses that might have been snapped up quite quickly a couple of years ago and languishing on the market much longer now. If you’ve decided to sell your home, take a look around your neighborhood. You will probably notice quite a number of For Sale signs in the front yards. These homes all share the same basic benefits as yours, such as the same school district, proximity to the same transportation or commuter drive times. They might even have been built by the same builder in a very similar style to yours.

Frankly, you’ve got a lot of competition.

Potential buyers will drive around neighborhoods that interest them. They will glance at a home with a yard sign for perhaps 3 to 5 seconds before moving on. Unless they see a reason to linger. In those few seconds, they have formed opinions as to whether the home meets their personal definition of ‘attractive.’

Is it neat and well-kept? Is the lawn lush and nicely trimmed? Are the shrubs neatly shaped and not obscuring the windows? Is the walkway clean and weed-free? Is the entryway welcoming? Could we live there without having to invest in landscape upgrades? Most of all, they are deciding if this home could provide them with pride of ownership. Would we feel proud to have friends and family visit us here?

And all this in about 3 to 5 seconds… before they pass by your home without ever looking inside and move on down the street!

But there IS good news. You can make your home stand out from the crowd and you don’t have to spend a fortune to do it.

First of all, go out and look at your home from the street, they way a prospective buyer would see it.

If shrubs have grown to the point where they are obscuring the front of the house, trim them back. If necessary, remove them altogether and replace them with fresh, attractive evergreen shrubs, such as Boxwood Winter Gem, Euonymus Manhattan with its colorful fruit or the dense rounded Red Barberry.

Add some annuals to put splashes of bright color in front of the shrubs. Pick up a few bags of dark mulch and carefully layer it around the shrubs and annuals. The contrast will make the colors pop!

How about the lawn? Keep it mowed (no shorter than three inches) and watered (about once or twice a week) so it looks green and lush. Edging the lawn, where it meets the flower beds, is worthwhile as it projects the impression that this house has been well cared for, so the inside should be as neat as the exterior.

Look at the entryway and front porch. Place a couple of containers there and add some economical plants. Pick containers that match the scale of your porch, neither too small and insignificant nor too large and overpowering. Plant some perennials such as geraniums, daylilies and varieties of Achillea including Summer Berries and Moonshine. Add a few annuals for instant color.

Look down at the walkway. Keep it swept and clean. If weeds are growing up through the pavers pull them out or kill them by spraying with vinegar.

Of course, you’ll want to be sure that the area is free of toys, bicycles and any items that distract the eye.

If you feel that some of these tasks are beyond your capabilities, such as mulching and lawn edging, call in a local landscaping service. A one-time service would not be too expensive and would be seen as a real investment when your home sells.

Remember, all you can really do is “put the odds in your favor” by giving your home a slight edge in the eyes of prospective buyers.

If you’re still stumped for ideas, go to my Web site, www.landsteward.org and click on the Slide Show link to see lots of ways to spruce up your home for a faster sale.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

Ivy alert! It can be a wall killer

2009-06-03T09:53:00.000-07:00

Ivy is a beautiful plant that creates mental images of both dignified, established structures and cozy old homes. Think Ivy League Universities on one hand and Hollywood’s idea of a quaint English cottage on the other hand. But ivy can cause big problems and you need to exercise great caution if you are thinking of adding it to your landscape, as I point out to this reader:

QUESTION: “We have some sort of non flowering vine that is growing on our brick
building. Will the plant damage the brick & mortar?” – Dawn Borg

ANSWER: Although, a vine (such as ivy) growing on buildings creates an attractive look, it can damage the brick and mortar by hiding insects, including termites, and other sneaky critters, as well as concealing cracks in the brick or mortar and wood rot damage around the doors and windows. The vines gradually work their way into the mortar causing cracks and loosening the bricks. However, usually you cannot see the damage until it is too late because it is hidden by the dense foliage of the vines.

QUESTION: “I have ten Kwanzan Cherry Trees that I planted about two years ago. They have been doing well and now are about 7 to 8 feet tall. Two weeks ago I noticed that two trees have a problem the leaves are turning brown and falling off. The branches are still pliable, right now anyway. Now it is happening to a third tree. The leaves look like they are starting to wilt. What could the problem be? I want to save these trees if possible.” – Carmine Sarno

ANSWER: My first consideration would be the possibility of either over watering or under watering, assuming there is no evidence of root damage from outside forces such as moles.

If your area has had a lot of rainfall, over watering could be the issue. On the other hand, if your area is lacking rainfall, the trees may be stressed. Plants will exhibit the same characteristics whether they are suffering from not enough water or too much water. Also, consider if it is possible that they could have been sprayed accidentally from an herbicide or lawn fertilizer. Hopefully, it is a “water” issue, from which the trees should recover if that problem is not of a long duration.

QUESTION: “I think my Burning Bushes are being eaten by rabbits. Piles of small pellets are around where the bush is disappearing. What can we do to stop it? Will the bushes survive?” – Vicky

ANSWER: Burning Bush plants are a favorite for bunnies and mice. To try to limit rabbits from nibbling on trees and shrubs, you have to work to remove their habitats. They live in areas where they are protected (much like mice) such as grassy fields, rock/stone, wood, and brush piles. As long as they have a place to live, they will be around and they will require food.

To keep them from nibbling on the trunks of the plants, loosely wrap hardware cloth around the trunks extending several inches into the ground, covering back with soil for security. This is about the safest way to handle the problem.

As long as the critters haven’t done extreme damage to the plants, wrapping them should allow them time to heal.

Cheryl and I are getting quite a bit of feedback from readers about the slide show at our Web site www.landsteward.org The slide show – which we add to regularly – features photos of lots of different garden projects along with descriptions so you can understand what you’re looking at. After years of answering readers’ questions we believe you’ll find this a useful (and free) resource when you’re looking for landscape solutions. Go take a look!

Waterlogged landscape creates special problems

2009-05-11T09:24:00.001-07:00

An area of landscape that is saturated with water on a fairly regular basis can be a real problem for homeowners. Similarly, sloping terrain can be a daunting challenge when it comes to lawn care and choosing suitable plants.

Put those two challenges together in one spot – damp conditions and sloping ground – and you’ve got the potential for major headaches! If that’s a problem you’re dealing with, you can sympathize with the reader who sent me this question, and hopefully my answer will give you some inspiration too.

QUESTION: “My family is moving to a new house soon in zone 6. Although very little of the property is landscaped, I'm lucky in that the previous owners clearly prepared much of the ground so it's in great shape for planting. That said, there are some tricky areas, and I'm not sure how to proceed.

On one side of the house, the ground is consistently damp. It's a combination of being mostly shaded and being on the "downstream" side of a long slope. While we don't get puddles, it's pretty soggy. There's virtually no grass there, and I can't imagine trying. I'd like to plant perennials and/or shrubs that will "sop up" some of the moisture and prevent erosion, and of course survive in the process. It doesn't have to be drop dead gorgeous, because it's not an area that's very visible, but of course I'd like it to be reasonably attractive. I'd love to know what options I have. I'm thinking various ferns, but what else?
At the top of our driveway, there's a short but fairly steep slope (the driveway goes up the side of the house, and the backyard lawn is elevated above the driveway). I'd say it's about four feet from the base to the top. This area gets a few good hours of sun, but also some shade. It's very visible from the street, so I'd like it to be attractive as well as functional.
In the front of our house are some huge broad leaf evergreens. The areas underneath and around them are very bare. The front yard slopes gradually but visibly down towards the street. What can I plant there?” – Marcy Rosen

ANSWER: As a rule, grass doesn’t usually grow well in wet, shaded areas. You might consider putting in a dry creek bed to try to move some of the dampness to another part of the yard. There are plants that will grow in wet areas, but they will only absorb the amount of moisture that they need and no more. The only way to reduce the dampness is to divert the water (from wherever it comes) to another area of the yard.

Having said that, there are plants that grow well in damp areas. There is an excellent article, titled “Qualifiers for Quagmires: Landscape Plants for Wet Sites” posted online by the Extension Service of NC State University. You can find it at: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-646.html and you can click on a link from this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org

That article includes a comprehensive list of damp-tolerant trees, shrubs and herbaceous perennials, including those species have been known to tolerate flooded conditions for extended periods of time. Well worth checking out if you’re a victim of wet landscape.

Concerning the sloped area at the top of your driveway, you might want to look at junipers, evergreen euonymus (such as manhattan), hydrangeas, bamboo and nandinas.

On planting something underneath your broadleaf evergreen trees, it kind of depends on what the trees are, how dense they are in the front yard and how much space there is before the first branching. It is often difficult to get shrubs or perennials to grow in heavily shaded areas such as that. There are a number of groundcovers that can perform well in situations such as yours. Consider planting vinca, pachysandra and wintercreeper. Groundcovers are a very viable and attractive alternative to both grass and shrubs in conditions such as you describe.

Planting for privacy and peace of mind

2009-05-04T07:59:00.001-07:00

QUESTION: “I am wanting to plant something around one end of my pool for privacy. My only concern is that the plants should not have a very big root system due to it being around 2 – 3 feet from my cement. I also need something that will grow 10 – 12 feet high. I do not need total privacy, just something that will break up the view of my pool.” – Ronnie Holloway

ANSWER: Tall growing ornamental grasses work beautifully in pool areas as do clumping bamboo (which I would recommend planting in large pots for extra height). Most shrubs or low growing trees are going to produce root systems that may bump up against the concrete. Another thought is to berm the area so that shrubs such as junipers or cypress (evergreens) can be planted with root space.

Since space may be limited, landscaping with large pots or containers is a gorgeous way to bring in tall growing plants (depending on where you live, of course). Bamboo, grasses, holly, other broadleaf evergreens with a blending of seasonal color (perennials) can create a most interesting setting and provides needed privacy.

I hope this gives you some ideas to build on.

QUESTION: “We bought a home in the woods. We have a lot behind us that is approximately one-half acre and narrow. The lot was sold and all the beautiful 200 year old pine trees were taken down. They built a home on stilts and proceeded to put a dog pen attached to the home in the back. I planted a few Thuga trees in anticipation of this but we have many deer and they have feasted on them this winter. The house is placed directly behind us, giving us about 30 feet between the two homes. Help! What can I do?” – Carole

ANSWER: That does sound terrible. Step one would be to install panels (you know, like the lattice type or fencing panels) so that they are more tall than wide. This will at least give you immediate privacy and peace of mind. Then you can work (gradually if necessary) on providing landscaping to fill in with the fencing.

If you choose the lattice panels, plant some type of ivy or Carolina Jessamine to grow up and fill that in.

As you begin to fill in with landscaping keep in mind to layer plants. Larger (or taller) plants especially evergreens planted in the back half of the area coming forward with shorter deciduous, ornamental grasses and other evergreen plants finishing off with colorful perennials in front.

Cheryl and I have put together a slideshow that you access via our Web site www.landsteward.org It should give you a few ideas on layering plants in the landscape. Look for the link on the right of the home page that says Ideas Slide Show.

The next question comes from a reader who brings up a very good point about being careful about what can be planted in proximity to blackberry plants.

QUESTION: “I have 18 blackberry plants. My question is how far from the blackberries can I plant tomatoes? My blackberry plants have been in the ground approximately 12 months.” – Harold Daniels

ANSWER: Tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and eggplant carry root rot called verticillium which can harm blackberry and raspberry plants. Berry plants should not be planted in soil where these vegetables have grown within the past 4 years. 30 to 50 feet away might be a good distance. The biggest thing you will want to look for is drainage. When it rains or you water the tomatoes or other vegetables, you do not want the water draining down towards your berry plants.

As I mentioned above, Cheryl and I have put together a slide show of color photos and descriptions, and readers are writing to tell us they are getting some good ideas from them. You are welcome to go to our Web site and “slide” through the pics!

Five ways to keep it simple in your garden

2009-04-27T12:49:00.001-07:00

“Simplify, simplify!” said Henry David Thoreau. But you don’t have to live in an isolated cabin at Walden Pond to enjoy the benefits of simplification, particularly when it relates to your garden and landscape.

Life today makes so many demands on our time, particularly with work and family-related issues, that the garden gets pushed further and further down the priority list. As a result, we put off doing anything because we have more important matters to deal with, or we start a major landscape project and realize we’ve bitten off more than we can comfortably chew.

It doesn’t have to be that way. Just let Thoreau’s famous quote be your guideline and simplify. Here are some ways that you can K.I.S.S.: Keep It Simple… Sweetie!

Take smaller bites.
You’re not building the Hoover Dam in your backyard (I hope) so you don’t need to regard your landscape improvements as a single huge project. Certainly, have an overall plan for the way you want the finished result to be, but don’t set yourself the task of completing it all in one season.

Pick one of two smaller areas that will be part of the whole. Select the trees and shrubs for those areas, prepare the soil and plant them. Throughout their first season, you can concentrate on tending to their needs. This “smaller bite” will consume less of your time and energy than attempting a full-court makeover, and as the year progresses, what you see emerging may modify your original master plan, allowing your creativity to grow along with the plants. Spread your project into manageable “bite sized” segments and simply work on one at a time.

Go low-maintenance
As you plan your landscape, make a point to look for low-maintenance plants. Ideally, a low-maintenance plant will be have a fairly slow to moderate growth habit, is resistant to pests and diseases, and doesn’t shed a lot of bits and pieces requiring constant clean-up. There’s no such thing as a perfect plant, but seek out those with the fewest potential maintenance problems.

For example, if you have Dogwoods in your plan, look for varieties such as the gorgeous Dogwood Appalachian Spring that is highly resistant to dogwood anthracnose, the fungal disease that has killed off millions of trees.

If you need a maintenance-free ornamental grass that can even do well in spots that stay damp, look for a variety named Grass Acorus gramineus Ogon.

Go for quality
Buying the cheapest plants is not usually a good investment, particularly if your time is worth anything to you. If plants look limp, tired and spindly at the garden center, you could be buying trouble, including the introduction of plant disease to your garden. Weak, unhealthy plants require a lot of care and are more likely to fail, which means buying more plants later to replace them.

Invest in healthy plants and you’ll spend less time caring for them and less money replacing them. For example, if you’re planning on evergreens such as the deer-resistant Juniper Blue Point, choose those that are larger and further along in their growth cycle by the time you buy them, probably shipped in gallon containers.

Do it right the first time
Follow the planting instructions precisely. If the instructions tell you to dig a hole of a particular dimension and add some organic matter, then that’s what you need to do if you want the plant to do well without a whole lot of attention from you.

Cut (out) the grass
If you hate spending a lot of your valuable time mowing your lawn, or it local conditions make it difficult to grow and maintain good sod, reduce the size of your lawn and replace with low-maintenance ground cover.

Here are some easy-care ground covers that could replace a lot of lawn:

Pennsylvania Sedge (grows well under trees)
Ajuga Black Scallop PW
Mazus Reptans Purple Creeping
Nandina Dwarf Harbor

If you need some specific answers to garden problems, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org Meanwhile, keep it simple so your garden is a joy not a chore.

The five transplant trees make for easier, more successful planting

2009-04-07T11:58:00.000-07:00

Quite often Im asked a variation on the same question. Sometimes the question is asked by visitors to my nursery; other times I find the question in my e-mail from a reader of this column. And sometimes the question remains unasked by someone who doesnt want to appear dumb.

This is the question:

How easy is it to plant a tree?

That is most certainly not a dumb question. But often its only half a question. Why? Because when most people ask the question, they really want to know how easy it is to plant trees successfully so that they thrive and grow to maturity.

Another point to remember is that some trees are easier to grow than others, regardless of your level of expertise. Ill have some suggestions for you in this column. But first, lets think about the absolute basics of introducing the tree into your landscape.

Different varieties of trees have different needs, but a non-profit web site operated by American Forests has some excellent general tree-planting tips, including the following:

Select a site with enough room for roots and branches to reach full size. Avoid overhead and

underground utilities.

Prepare a planting area as deep as the root ball and three to five times its diameter by loosening the soil.

Dig a hole in the middle of the area and set the root ball even with the ground level.

Use water to settle soil and remove air pockets in planting area.

Stake the tree to flex with the wind only if tree is unable to stand up to wind.

Spread a two to three inch layer of mulch on entire area, but not within six inches of tree trunk.

You can find the entire article, along with some helpful diagrams here: http://www.americanforests.org/resources/howtoplanttrees/ and there is a direct link from this column at my web site. Go to www.landsteward.org then find this column under The Plant Man heading.

There are ways you can put the odds in your favor when it comes to planting trees that are more likely to thrive and grow successfully. Heres a word I want you to remember: Transplants.

Transplants are hardier, huskier, and more allaround balanced plants than seedlings. When planted in your landscape, the transplant has a greater chance of survival since it has already survived the shock of being transplanted once at the nursery.

With spring in the air, lets think about some beautiful flowering trees that work very well (and are much easier to grow) as transplants.

White Flowering Cherry (Prunus yedoensis). This is also known as Yoshino Cherry and is a rapidly growing tree that is extraordinarily beautiful in Spring when it is covered with white blossoms that resemble cotton candy. These trees can eventually reach 40 ft. and make excellent street trees.

Kwanzan Cherry. Id say this is the showiest of all Japanese trees. I love the awesome bundles of large pink blossoms that last longer than those of other flowering cherries.

Cleveland Select Flowering Pear. If you like to see a lot of blooms, the Cleveland Select seems to have more than other varieties of flowering pear. This variety is hardy, deciduous, disease-resistant and grows more upright than the Bradford to around 30 - 40 ft high.

Forest Pansy Redbud. Something a little out of the ordinary, but well worth planting if you can find it! It is a beautiful ornamental tree that perfect for the small garden as well as more ambitious landscaping projects. Unlike the native Redbud (cercis Canadensis), the Forest Pansy has blooms of a deep maroon color.

Dogwood Kousa (Cornus kousa). Also known as a Japanese flowering dogwood, the Kousa is not as susceptible to disease as the white dogwood, and that’s a major benefit. Great as a specimen, in groupings or near a patio, it blooms later, around June with a softer petal flower.

So, if youre looking for an easier and more foolproof way of planting healthy successful trees without a lot of worry or risk, remember to look for transplants!

Let me know if I can help you with your specific tree planting challenges. Note that some of the information here appeared in an earlier Plant Man column published in April 2003 and included here by reader request.

Herbs: the finishing touch for your human habitat

2009-03-18T04:44:00.001-07:00

Ornamental grasses add tranquility to human habitat

2009-03-12T09:01:00.000-07:00

Your garden can be a human habitat

2009-03-04T06:42:00.001-08:00

When landscapers use the word ‘habitat’ it’s almost always preceded by the word ‘wildlife’. Nothing wrong with that, to be sure. But what about you? What about a human habitat?

Landscape designers can create environments that make birds and other wildlife feel right at home. They feel safe and relaxed and they are likely to spend more time there.

If you are like many homeowners, your backyard doesn’t seem to be beckoning you outside, inviting you to kick back, relax and become one with nature.

Sound familiar? If so, stay tuned because I have a few suggestions that will help you create a delightful human habitat that can adapt to any budget and any skill level.

When Cheryl and I create a new garden, we focus on elements that allow us to be enveloped by nature, to enjoy the peace and tranquility that nature provides. (If you’d like to see some photos, see the note below.) A human habitat garden should resonate with the five senses: sight, sound, smell, touch and taste.

The sight of foliage in different shapes and sizes and shades of green and other colors; the sight of flowers as the progress from tiny green buds to full blooms, then to the gold and copper of fall.
The undulating sound of leaves rustling together as the breeze wafts through the tree canopy above.
The smell of roses and other fragrant perennials and the burst of aroma released when fresh herbs are rubbed between your fingers.
The touch of different textures from the rough bark of a tree to the velvety-smooth feel of a petal.
And yes, taste too, from the herbs that go from your garden to your kitchen pots.

For us, nothing beats taking a cup of coffee out to our garden first thing in the morning and letting the sights, sounds and smells of nature give us both peace and energy. Twenty minutes like that and we’re ready to deal with whatever life can dish out for the rest of the day! Nature, yes; but nature to which we’ve lent a helping hand.

If you’re feeling that you could do with some of that right now, here’s how you can start.

Don’t plan anything too grand. It can become overwhelming and you are likely to give up in frustration. Remember, this is your own personal human habitat. It doesn’t have to be big or take up your entire yard. Start with a small area. You can expand later if you wish.

Think ‘scale’. You’re not Gulliver. You don’t want to be dwarfed by trees that will, in the course of time, soar into the sky on trunks wider than an oil drum. Nor do you want everything in your habitat to be so miniscule and close to the ground that it is little more than a lawn. Think different plant sizes that complement each other (and you) without overwhelming.

Evergreens. Plan on including some evergreens so you have some greenery in your habitat year round. There will be warmish days in early spring and late fall that will tempt you outside and the evergreens will be there to welcome you.

Yarrows. They’re easy to grow and are some of the most popular plants as a result. Look for Achillea Moonshine with its canary-yellow flowers and silver-green foliage that goes with just about everything. Add in some Achillea Paprika or Achillea Terra Cotta for an eye-pleasing mix of colors.

Ornamental shrubs. Yes, they’re ornaments but living ornaments. Think about Carolina Allspice with their aromatic leaves and fruits that have almost a strawberry fragrance. Check out Fragrant Honeysuckle with its heady perfume and delicate pink and white flowers. Don’t forget Spirea Gold Mound with its clusters of tiny, light-pink flowers on reddish-hued foliage.

Hardscape. A wooden bench where you can sit and enjoy your habitat. A pergola or even a gazebo can be found ready-made or in kit form if you’re not skilled in carpentry. Find paving options at hardware stores and garden centers.

Yes, there’s much more and we’ll pick it up in the next Plant Man column, with a focus on herbs and grasses to make your yard a true human habitat.

If you’d like to see some examples of gardens that Cheryl and I have created over the years, send an e-mail request to steve@landsteward.org and we’ll e-mail you some pics.

More human habitat tips next time!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Your garden can be a human habitat

2009-03-04T06:42:00.000-08:00

When landscapers use the word ‘habitat’ it’s almost always preceded by the word ‘wildlife’. Nothing wrong with that, to be sure. But what about you? What about a human habitat?

Landscape designers can create environments that make birds and other wildlife feel right at home. They feel safe and relaxed and they are likely to spend more time there.

If you are like many homeowners, your backyard doesn’t seem to be beckoning you outside, inviting you to kick back, relax and become one with nature.

Sound familiar? If so, stay tuned because I have a few suggestions that will help you create a delightful human habitat that can adapt to any budget and any skill level.

The sight of foliage in different shapes and sizes and shades of green and other colors; the sight of flowers as the progress from tiny green buds to full blooms, then to the gold and copper of fall.
The undulating sound of leaves rustling together as the breeze wafts through the tree canopy above.
The smell of roses and other fragrant perennials and the burst of aroma released when fresh herbs are rubbed between your fingers.
The touch of different textures from the rough bark of a tree to the velvety-smooth feel of a petal.
And yes, taste too, from the herbs that go from your garden to your kitchen pots.

If you’re feeling that you could do with some of that right now, here’s how you can start.

Yes, there’s much more and we’ll pick it up in the next Plant Man column, with a focus on herbs and grasses to make your yard a true human habitat.

If you’d like to see some examples of gardens that Cheryl and I have created over the years, send an e-mail request to steve@landsteward.org and we’ll e-mail you some pics.

More human habitat tips next time!

Keeping dogs away from tender plants

2009-02-25T10:24:00.001-08:00

Having your pet dog join you for some outdoor fun is one of life’s pleasures. But when Fido decides to hone his digging and chewing skills on your tender plants, man’s best friend can find himself in the dog house!

Here’s a reader who needs help with a dog-gnawed magnolia.

QUESTION: “Last spring I planted a magnolia Jane and crape myrtle in my garden and they were doing very well until my two dogs got inside the garden and chewed the magnolia down to 5 inches with several small branches attached and chewed the myrtle. I managed to prune the myrtle back to beauty but the magnolia didn't fare so well. Is there any hope in saving the magnolia? ” -- Juan Luciano

ANSWER: Pets can be harsh on new plants in the landscape. You may have to try several different things before you find the one thing that will encourage the dogs to leave the plants alone.

A few things that come to mind are putting wire cages (chicken wire or stronger) around the trees for the first few years until they can fend for themselves. Sprinkling cayenne pepper around the area of the plant can sometimes keep the dogs at bay as their nose/tongue will burn (nothing violent!) for a few hours. As the trees grow, if the dogs continue to chew on the bark, loosely wrap the trunk with hardware cloth. It is a woven wire type cloth that dogs or wildlife such as rabbits and mice can’t gnaw through.

I don’t know if the magnolia will come out from the damage. It will pretty much be a wait and see. Give it some protection and if it begins to leaf out, build a sturdy cage around it so the dogs can’t get near it.

Another option, until the magnolia is a little larger, is to relocate it to a large (tall) garden pot. I had to do this last year after my dogs decided to dig up the two new crape myrtles that I used to replace two oriental maples that had died over the harsh Easter weekend two years ago. They had never done anything so drastic before, but after they dug up the second set of myrtles planted, we decided to put the plants in some tall garden pots and they didn’t bother them anymore.

QUESTION: “I just recently purchased a home. The lawn is something to question, but anyway I was planning to rake and apply fertilizer with weed control. One person recommended that I use lime as well. Could you explain the benefits or why should I use lime in addition to my fertilizer treatment? Also, I have a hearty hibiscus. Do they return yearly? Can I just plant the seeds that they bore before fall/winter?” -- Daniel Felicien

ANSWER: The first thing you should do is have your soil tested. Too often, many chemicals are added to soil haphazardly without testing the soil to make certain that is what is needed, even fertilizer. You can obtain soil testing information through your local Conservation District Office (also known as NRCS), Soil Conservation Service or contact your local Department of Agriculture.

Here is a link to the NRCS. http://www.nrcs.usda.gov You can find your nearest office by going to that site and clicking on ‘Find a Service Center.’

Fertilizers are only used to bring soil into a neutral level (pH) while chemicals are used to combat specific problems. They do not make the soil healthier, which is where soil should be. Amendments such as organic applications, aged compost, aged manure mix, etc will build up the soil with nutrients making it healthy and less susceptible to weeds and pests. Weed seeds have a difficult time growing in healthy soil.

If the hibiscus in your landscape is a temperate variety (usually a hard bark shrub) and not a tropical variety, it is only dormant and will leaf out in mid/late spring. Temperate varieties of hibiscus (also known as althea and Rose of Sharon) are generally propagated through cuttings. Any seed produced by the plant may not come back true to the parent plant.

Five new books to fascinate armchair gardeners

2009-02-19T09:38:00.000-08:00

With spring fast approaching, this is a good time to catch up on some practical and fun how-to advice from garden experts. Here’s my look at five new garden books.

Home Outside: Creating the Landscape You Love

Julie Moir Messervy (Taunton Press)

As the author notes, most of us have the confidence to improve the inside of our homes with a fresh coat of paint, new rugs, furniture and fixtures. But when it comes to the outside of our most prized possession, we don’t know where to start.

In “Home Outside” landscape designer Messervy provides an intuitive, easy-to-follow guide that demystifies the art and practice of landscape design. Divided into sections such as Comfort Zones, Making It Flow, Placing the Pieces and Sensory Pleasures, the book combines no-nonsense text, excellent color photos and diagrams and plans.

Messervy says that she wants to get people back outside onto their land by helping them realize the pleasure that’s involved in being out of doors.

If you gaze at your yard and wish it looked better but don’t know where to start, “Home Outside” could be the book to get you off the dime and fired up with ideas from the modest to the grandiose. Have a pad of those sticky yellow notes handy. You’ll probably want to bookmark a lot of pages in this, one of the year’s best landscape design books for both homeowners and design pro’s.

Deer-Resistant Landscaping

Neil Soderstrom (Rodale Books)

If you’re one of the thousands of homeowners in the depths of despair and depression due to finding your lovingly cared-for plants reduced to stubble by hungry deer, this is a must-have book for you.

Suburban sprawl has created an ideal habitat for wildlife, free from most natural predators and off-limits to hunters. For lovers of wildlife, this can be a joy, but the joy can be short lived when deer see your landscape as an all-they-can-eat buffet.

In this book, Soderstrom tells you what works, what doesn’t and why, based on the latest scientific research, advice of landscape and wildlife-control professionals, all without resorting to poisons or firearms.

Not just deer, by the way, but also twenty other “pesky” mammals from bears, beavers and chipmunks to moles, mice, rabbits and voles.

Perhaps best of all, Soderstom lists, describes and depicts more than 1,000 plants that are resistant to deer and other wildlife.

Understanding Perennials

William Cullina (HMH)

Cullina has created a visually beautiful guide to working with perennials and, most importantly, helping them flourish. Rather than coming up with yet another plant encyclopedia, Cullina offers what he describes as the “psychology” of perennials: their needs, wants and potentials.

Starting with the basics, such as the difference between bulbs, corms and tubers, the book literally takes perennials from the ground up, with sections on roots, leaves, stems, flowers and seeds. There’s also a handy reference section on pests and diseases that attack perennials and how to control them.

Perennials are the basis of virtually every garden and Cullina’s book deserves a place on the shelf of every gardener wishing to bring out the best in their plants.

Rodale’s Ultimate Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening

Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley et al (Rodale Books)

Unlike Cullina’s book, this one really IS an encyclopedia, and at around two inches thick, quite a hefty one! This edition, newly revised and updated for 2009, must be the most up-to-date and complete resource on the subject of organic gardening.

After 50 years it is still the go-to reference for both novices and seasoned organic gardeners. If you’re intrigued by the idea of applying organic methods to fruit and vegetable crops, herbs, trees and shrubs, perennials, annuals and lawns, here’s where you’ll find in-depth information on earth-friendly techniques, using water wisely, managing invasive plants and more.

Kitchen Garden Box: Save and Sow Seeds of Your Favorite Vegetables

Mike McGrath (Quirk)

Organized on cards in a sturdy flip-top box, this fun little package shows gardeners how to collect, store, use and replant seeds of their favorite tried-and-true veggies.

In addition to handy cards with step-by-step instructions, growing tips and recipes, the kit includes ten seed storage envelopes and coupons for two free seed packets. A fun gift for a friend or for yourself, Kitchen Garden Box is scheduled for publication in April 2009.

Landscape for privacy and sound barrier around new home

2009-02-12T13:39:00.001-08:00

Moving to a new home, particularly if it’s your first, is an exciting venture. But deciding what to do about your new landscape can seem overwhelming. That was the problem faced by these new homeowners whose question was answered by my wife Cheryl, below.

QUESTION: “My husband and I are in the process of purchasing a property.
Temperatures are usually warm and the backyard is small with a fair amount of sunlight. We'd like to keep the landscaping cohesive with the style of this Spanish Cottage, but more importantly, we need it to do several things.

“First, we need it to build privacy since two story buildings can see into our yard. We also would like to reduce sound. My husband is a musician and frequently has "jam sessions" in the garage, but we don't want to disturb neighbors. What types of trees
and plants do you suggest for this?

“Finally, if we'd like to grow some light ivy over the house to give it that "cottage" feel, how would we do this? The front of the home faces south. Thank you so much.” – The Schlarbs

ANSWER: Planting trees and shrubs in fairly close proximity and then pruning them to form a hedge is a time-honored way to create a feeling of privacy and at the same time muffle sound, both incoming and outgoing.

But for you’re thinking of something a little less formal, here’s a link to a very informative article from the L.A. Times in praise of what the author calls “hedges without edges.”
http://articles.latimes.com/2006/feb/23/home/hm-hedges23

You can always use bamboo, but there are other plant varieties out there that may be more of what you would prefer. Layering different types of plants can help create privacy, such as a dense hedge that may only grow 5 to 8 feet tall but give you the sound block you desire with a tall growing bamboo or other plant variety to block the view from the taller buildings.

Concerning growing ivy on your house, this isn't something that I would recommend. Ivy, like many other vines, will attach itself to the structure eventually causing serious damage. However, if you like the idea of ivy, remember that it will grow on a chicken wire frame, lattice or arbor where it would be less invasive and easier to control. The latter, an arbor, would help to give you privacy in your back yard area.

I have e-mailed you some specific links to pages at Sunset Magazine’s Web site. Sunset Magazine always has some wonderful ideas for landscaping, particularly southwestern landscaping. Sunset Magazine is one of my favorite all-around magazines because they always give such great tips. What I am trying to do with these links is to show you how color and plants can liven up a home and give you the cottage feel that you are looking for.

For other readers who are interested in this subject, your best bet is simply to go to http://www.sunset.com/garden/ and then click on the menu items such as “Landscaping and Design,” “Earth Friendly,” etc.

Some colorful plants that you may want to include in your landscape are: roses, lantana, hibiscus, fuchsia, camellia, and bougainvillea. Many of these plants also offer climbing varieties that could be considered for the arbor instead of the ivy.

This is a lot of info to take in, but I hope it gives you some ideas of your own to build on.
Good luck on your project!

A few days later, this follow-up note was in our in-box:

I can't thank you enough for such a helpful email! My family and I will certainly be thinking of your kindness as we work on landscaping for our yard. Being that this could be our first home, we are very excited , but felt overwhelmed at the thought of sorting this out on our own. When we finally get around to it, I'll be sure to send you photos. Many thanks! Warm regards, Adriana Schlarb & Family.

Roses: the language of love lasts long after Valentine’s Day

2009-02-05T07:49:00.001-08:00

Roses. Ask almost anyone what roses symbolize and they’ll tell you, “Love.” In February, our thoughts turn to love, thanks to St. Valentine, Cupid’s little arrows and, of course, roses.

If you’re thinking of treating your Special Sweetie to roses on February 14, I say, “Good for you!” But I have an idea that will put a unique tweak on your gift that will show your love lasts longer than just Valentine’s Day. Doesn’t that sound good?

But first, before you rush out and plunk down your hard-earned cash for a bunch of blooms, take a minute to think about the language of flowers; what the color of the rose says about you and your feelings.

Yes, strange as it might seem, flowers really do have a language, a code if you will, that legend says originated in 15th century Persia, coming to Europe over the next three hundred years. By the 19th century, people in Europe and America were using this floral code to send wordless messages to each other. Because each flower, color, and even number of flowers and how they were arranged in the bouquet had special meanings, lovers could converse secretly without ever exchanging a word.

Roses are the flowers most associated with the emotions, particularly love. But are you sure those roses you’re about to grab at the supermarket express exactly the feelings you wish to convey? For a start, there are many shades of red rose, each expressing slightly different emotions. Consider this:

Mid red roses: romantic love and respect
Amaranth red: long standing desire
Cardinal red: sublime desire
Carmine red: deceitful desire
Fiery red: flames of passion

It doesn’t stop with red, of course. Other colors have special meanings that you might want to consider, depending on the message you wish to convey:

Lavender/purple: grace, gentility, refinement
Peach: sociability, friendship
Pink: appreciation, gratitude
Red and white together: unity
Red and yellow together: happiness, gaiety, fun
Yellow: joy, celebration

So lavender roses might be perfect for grandma or your inlaws, perhaps. Peach roses could be could be a nice choice for your best friend, and pink roses to say thank you to a co-worker. Yellow roses are often seen at wedding showers and receptions, but be careful! In Islamic tradition, yellow roses symbolize treachery or deceit, in Mexico they are associated with death and to the French they imply infidelity!

Well, here’s my “unique tweak” to make this Valentine’s Day the most memorable ever. Give your Honey a rose bush rather than a bouquet. Why? A bouquet will fade and wither in a few days, but a live, growing rose bush, planted where she or he will see it everyday, year after year, speaks of a love that is perennial!

I strongly recommend Knockout Roses because they are relatively easy to care for and produce an amazing amount of gorgeous, fragrant blooms, often twice as many as other varieties. Look for:

Rose Knockout Red

This is an excellent choice for a low-maintenance, disease resistant rose. Fluorescent, fire-engine red in cooler temperatures turning deep, dense pink in the heat of summer.

Rose Knockout Double Red

Ooh, the passion! This one has deep iridescent burgundy red. You’ll find 5 or 6 blooms per stem giving a luscious, luxurious display.

Rose Knockout Double Pink

The Double Pink is a little more dense and compact than some other Knockouts, reaching about 3 to 4 feet high with those eye-popping, blushing-pink double blooms.

Rose Knockout Rainbow

This is one of my favorites, blooming from spring to fall with blooms that open orange from coral-pink buds, and then quickly turn soft coral-pink shading to gold at the base, surrounding a yellow center.

Look for knockout roses in one gallon containers as they’ll be further along in their growth cycle and more likely to thrive once planted.

Knockout roses will bring a perennial display of passionate color and heady fragrance to your loved one’s garden. What better way to say “I love you” on Valentine’s Day and every day for years to come?

Feel free to send me an e-mail if you want more information on Knockout roses or need some buying information.

Plant Man column celebrates seventh year

2009-01-29T13:31:00.001-08:00

'The Plant Man,' the self-syndicated gardening column by Steve Jones, marks its seventh year of continuous publication in February 2009.

The weekly column, currently published by 85 newspapers in 33 states across America, focuses on trees, shrubs and groundcover that even 'green-thumb-challenged' readers can plant and care for with relative ease.

"Attractive landscaping doesn't have to be expensive or difficult to maintain," insists Jones. "And in the current economic climate, some neat, attractive planting in the front yard adds curb-appeal and dramatically enhances the perceived value when you're ready to sell."

Each week, 'The Plant Man' offers helpful tips and planting suggestions. Quite often, the column includes reader questions that Steve answers in print. "I also make a point of e-mailing back a personal reply," says Jones, "Because often a reader has a problem that needs a solution right away!"

Steve Jones also hosts a non-profit Web site, www.landsteward.org that includes archived columns as well as other articles and helpful links. Jones has traveled to African nations with the USDA investigating ways to enhance plant production for food, fuel and other uses.

“It’s hard to believe that it’s been seven years,” says Jones. The best part? “Hearing from all those readers who have questions or comments about how much they enjoy reading the column!”

Steve says he plans to keep writing ‘The Plant Man” for many years to come. He can be reached at steve@landsteward.org

Heucheras: easy-grow perennials in “gourmet” varieties

2009-01-21T09:48:00.000-08:00

As regular readers know, Cheryl and I are strong advocates of native plants because they are less inclined to come with the potential problems sometimes associated with exotic imports.

However, native definitely doesn’t mean dull! In this, the third column on perennials that will give your landscape a unique, colorful sparkle, we’ll take a look at some of our favorite heucheras.

The original, wild heucheras have been found growing for centuries all across the continent from New England to Western Canada and even as far south as Mexico. Most wild heucheras aren’t particularly colorful, but some recently-developed hybrids are spectacular while retaining the sturdy attitude of their wild cousins.

Cheryl and I cannot get enough of the heucheras. With all the new heucheras being developed we seem to be putting clusters of the new introductions in threes all around the garden. If you want easy no-fuss plants, these are the ones. Both novices and seasoned gardeners get hooked on heucheras.

Here are some of our favorites, with appropriately appetizing names…

Heuchera Peach Flambe PPAF

As the name implies, Peach Flambe glows in spring with eye-popping peach-colored leaves with red overtones. The leaves turn a beautiful deep purple with cooler fall weather. Creamy white flowers on 16 inch spikes emerge to give a great summer contrast. Like all heucheras, Peach Flambe is easy to plant and easy to grow. It is great for the low-maintenance landscape, borders, or patio additions.

Heuchera Lime Ricky PPAF

From peaches to limes… This one makes a nice color contrast with Black Elephant ears, Black mondo grass, or any other dark foliage plant. The scalloped leaves have a chartreuse glow in spring, turning lemon-lime in summer and forming a sturdy evergreen mound. The taller sprays of ivory flowers appear in late spring. It attracts butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden.

Heuchera Plum Pudding

I love the evocative names horticulturists come up with! I think this is one of the finest heucheras, The plum-colored, evergreen foliage is outstanding and holds its color well even in full shade. This little perennial is worth growing just for its foliage alone, although the white flowers are striking on the dark plum stems. I should say that Cheryl and I remove the stems and use them for cut flowers, as we consider the flowers detract from the plant, so for us, Plum Pudding does double duty. The plant is more compact than most heucheras and is excellent for use around trees and shrubs.

Heuchera villosa Tiramisu PPAF

The foliage is mainly chartreuse with a brick red coloring originating from the inside and radiating outward. During the summer, the leaves lighten to chartreuse with a light silver overlay. Tiramisu grows 10 inches in height with a spread about 12 to 15 inches, making it useful as a colorful ground cover displaying white blooms in summer. You will want to plant with 3 plants per mass (triangle form) for best display.

Heuchera Sparkling Burgundy

From fruit to puddings to wine! This is a heuchera with beautiful mounds of glowing foliage that deepens to a warm burgundy, hence the name. Its giant six-inch leaves glow all spring and summer. Multi-seasonal interest begins with bright rose burgundy spring foliage and clean white flowers followed by leaf colors that become orange and white veiled as the season progresses to a final summer color of veiled burgundy and olive tones. The evergreen leaves darken in winter to a rich wine-red.

Heucheras are easy perennials to grow and fit nicely in the front of any border, rock garden, or container. They grow most vigorously and have the strongest colors when grown in partial shade (preferably afternoon shade). By the way, heucheras can be grown under Black Walnut trees because they are resistant to the toxin Juglone which the trees emit from their roots.

If you missed the two previous columns with ideas for easy, colorful perennial gardens, you can find them at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

Achillea: Perennial favorite for easy, colorful gardens

2009-01-14T20:36:00.000-08:00

You probably know certain people who are just so easy to get along with. They are popular, colorful characters. They’re great at parties because everyone likes them and they can fit in with just about any company. In fact, they’re very much like Achilleas.

Achillea is one of the easiest perennials to grow and I think it’s a good choice for beginners. Pretty much all it needs is full sun and well-drained soil. It thrives in average to poor soil and is drought tolerant once established. Once the flowers have faded, you can cut the plant back by half and this will probably stimulate a second flush of blooms in late summer.

Here are some Achillea varieties to look out for:

Achillea Moonshine

This is still one of the most popular garden plants today, and for good reason. Achillea 'Moonshine' is a good landscape investment because it combines well with almost everything. The bright, canary-yellow blooms are terrific foil for many other colors in your garden including purple, blue and pink.

This is a clump-forming selection that blooms over a long period beginning in early summer. Plants will rebloom if they are cut back after the first round of flowering.

Achillea Paprika

If paprika makes you think spicy and red, you’re on the right track. This Galaxy hybrid selection is known for its large clusters of bright red flowers, and each individual flower in the cluster also has a distinctive yellow eye, kind of like a tiny reverse bullseye.
Plant it where sun gives way to afternoon shade and you’ll slow its natural tendency to fade a bit.

Adding to its good looks is the fern-like deep green foliage. Paprika’s blooms just keep on coming all season long if you deadhead the spent flowers. It does its best in a perennial border where it can enjoy enriched soil and regular watering. It is irresistible to butterflies, too.

Achillea Summer Berries

This Achillea variety is another easy-to-grow perennial favorite and is quite often first year flowering. Summer Berries creates an eye-pleasing mix of fruity colors: salmon-apricot/yellow, cherry-red/apricot, white-pink/cream, two-tone pink, and more. It is a good choice for the border and as a cut flower, fresh or dried, keeping colors bright for months when dried.

Again, you’ll attract a host of butterflies and bees to the garden with this hardy perennial that grows to a height of 28 inches and a spread of about 20 inches. Space the plants about a foot apart in a sunny garden and between June and September you’ll see an unbroken swirl of multiple colors.

Unlike most other Achilleas, the blooms on Summer Berries refuse to fade, even in punishing heat and sunlight.

Achillea millefolium Terra Cotta

Terra Cotta was introduced by the world-famous German horticulturist and perennial breeder Ernst Pagel, so you know it has an admirable pedigree. It is an upright, clumping perennial reaching a mature height of around thirty inches spreading to nearly two feet. It likes full sun and can even do well with very little water in sandy soil with good drainage. You don’t need to fertilize; in fact they have a tendency to become droopy if over fed.

Terra Cotta blooms with multicolored flower heads that range from salmon-peach to pale yellow-orange to terra cotta, all appearing at the same time. It will flower all summer if dead-headed often. The foliage is silvery in color. As an added benefit, they are deer resistant.

You can plant them about two feet apart and they will fill in the first year. You might even want to use it as ground cover and simply mow it off in the fall.

Achilleas are the ideal plants for the gardener with limited experience who might be faced with less-than-perfect soil and daily hours of bright sunlight. But, newbie or expert, it’s hard to go wrong with this perennial favorite.

In future columns, I’ll take a look at more perennials that can make even the most “green thumb challenged” look like master gardeners!

These perennials bring new style to your garden

2009-01-07T10:59:00.000-08:00

Perennials are the best investment for your garden, coming back year after year, better and more impressive. Here are five slightly unusual perennials that would add a unique personality to your landscape.

Monarda didyma Fireball PP14,235

If you’re looking for a neat little plant that has a wonderfully compact habit and is a heavy bloomer mid-summer with scarlet-red flowers, you need to take a look at Fireball, sometimes known as Bee Balm. I really like the look of the fire-red flowers that bloom from June to August. Fireball spreads quickly and puts on a great show of summer color that attracts butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden.

The aromatic glossy green foliage is highly resistant to mildew and is also deer-resistant. Fireball has a mature height of between one and two feet, prefers moist soil and does fine in full sun, partial sun and shade.

Sedum Autumn Fire PW

Cheryl and I have several varieties of sedum in our garden and we just love them in the fall. Well, this selection is very similar to Autumn Joy, but was selected for its tighter growth habit, thicker foliage, and more brightly colored rosy flowers which are produced from late summer into fall.

Sedum is one of the most popular perennials grown in American gardens because it is very easy to grow and hardy in most areas of the country. Because of its thick, succulent leaves which can store water, sedum is drought tolerant. It should be sited in average to poor soil that is well-drained. Most varieties should be grown in full sun to light shade. If you like to plan a garden that produces relays of color throughout the year, make a note of this one that blooms between August and October.

Salvia East Friesland

I’m a big fan of Salvia in the garden. It is a must-have addition for borders, mass plantings, or just that little nook that needs a splash of color to complete your pallet.

If you're looking for a summer blooming plant with a show of intense color then this could be a fine addition for your garden. Salvias are easy to grow and perform best in full sun. The almost iridescent color of this salvia is deep-purple.

East Friesland is a heavily flowering over textured leaves with vivid spikes of color, 1 ½ inches long, starting in mid-June.

Walkers Low Cat Mint

Now here is a plant that is not only beautiful and useful in the landscape but is suitable for a wide range of climatic conditions. It is low maintenance, disease and pest resistant.

It has deep lavender-blue flowers that bloom profusely in early summer and then sporadically throughout the growing season. If sheared back after the first flush of bloom, you can expect another significant bloom.

Walkers Low attracts butterflies, hummingbirds and bees. You'll want to plant in full sun, although it can tolerate afternoon shade. This is a very drought tolerant plant but does need a well drained area.

Aster English Country

Asters are counted among the great garden plants, because many of them hold off blooming until late summer and fall when most garden plants are spent. Plants grow and flower best in full sun and evenly moist soil; they do not like drought.

Bees, butterflies and birds find them attractive and they bloom with an almost iridescent blue from late summer to fall, grow to a height of 20"and are resistant to disease. They make an excellent container plant or in front of the garden feature and look great with ornamental grasses.

I suggest that you look for plants sold in one-gallon containers. They are larger, further along in their growth cycle and will have an expanded root system. Gallon container plants may be a little more expensive initially, but have a better survival rate and will “perform” more quickly. If you have specific questions about any of these perennials, simply drop me a line.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Birds will flock to your winter haven garden

2008-12-24T06:24:00.000-08:00

Recently, several readers sent me e-mails about birds and the winter garden, and I had a request from a reader asking me to send her a column on the subject that was published a few years ago. Here’s that column, somewhat updated, with some thoughts about birds in winter.

Birds and gardens. They just seem to belong together. A landscape without birds would be a sad place indeed. In fact, we take the presence of birds in our lives so much for granted that we hardly even notice them for the most part. They=re just ... there. But we=d certainly miss them if they weren=t!

At this time of year, birds have three basic needs: food water and shelter. We can do quite a bit to provide for all three of those needs.

There are a number of good bird feeders available in specialty stores or from online sources. Some claim to be "squirrel proof" but for the most part I'd say "squirrel resistant" is a better description as the little guys seem capable of overcoming even the most ingenious obstacles!

Think carefully before you position your new bird feeder. If you like to watch the birds as they munch away, you’ll obviously want to place the feeder where you can easily see it from your window.

Birds prefer to visit a feeder that is fairly close to a dense bush or two. This gives them a staging post where they can land before approaching the feeder. It also provides a nearby refuge in case they have to escape from a predator such a hawk or your neighbor's prowling cat.

It is a temptation to buy a sack of the cheapest possible bird feed at the supermarket. Feeds that contain a high proportion of cracked corn, milo and wheat are generally low cost, but aren’t particularly desirable to a lot of birds. You’ll tend to find a lot of spilled and uneaten feed beneath your bird feeder, and that can attract rats. Not such a good idea!

I find it's worth paying a little more and getting a sack of sunflower seeds which seem very popular with the birds who visit my garden! If you intend to attract a particular breed, you might want to consult a specialty store or look online. I found a long and very helpful article online at http://helmboldt.us/birdfeed.txt titled "Overview of Wild Bird Feeding" by Aelred D. Geis, Ph.D. If you go to my web site, www.landsteward.org and find this column under "The Plant Man" heading, you can click on a direct hot link to that article, which I highly recommend.

By the way, Dr. Geis advocates keeping bird feeders stocked year round, rather than just in winter, even though other sources of food are more readily available in the warmer months. If you enjoy seeing birds in your back yard, it sounds like a good idea.

At this time of year, I also hang cakes of suet from tree branches. I buy them ready-made, but it=s fairly simple to make your own if you prefer. I found a number of recipes at http://www.birding.about.com and again, there's a direct link to that site from this column at my web site.

In addition to food, it is important that birds have clean, fresh drinking water available.

The best bird baths have a wide, shallow bowl, no more than two to three inches deep at the center. The bird bath can be as plain or as fancy as you wish: the birds won=t mind either way! A friend of mine set up a "dripper" in his bird bath and says that birds seems to be particularly attracted to the sight and sound of the dripping water.

Check your bird bath regularly to make sure the water is clean. Leaves and other debris that fall into the bird bath quickly turn to slime, making the water unpalatable. When the temperature falls below freezing, add warm water to the bath several times a day.

Now would be a good time to take a moment to check that your bird feeder is well stocked and the bird bath is clean and fresh!

Don’t forget the garden this Holiday season

2008-12-17T10:09:00.000-08:00

The Holidays are here again, and with short days and so much to do, it’s not easy to focus on what needs to be done in and around your landscape. That’s particularly true when there’s a cozy fireplace indoors and it’s cold and windy outdoors!

However, we shouldn’t totally ignore our garden because some things really can’t wait until spring. Once again, here are a few of my “What To Do Before Santa Gets Here” tips. Or, if you must, after he’s flown back to the North Pole.

Take care of your tools

If you’re like most people, your tools are leaning against the wall in the garage or shed, just where you left them the last time you were working in the garden. And they probably still have chunks of dried dirt and dead grass stuck to them. A few minutes invested now will pay dividends next spring.

Start by cleaning mud and dirt off shovels, forks and trowels. That’s a minimum, but it’s also a good idea to rub the metal parts with an oily rag. If you have a can of WD-40 on the shelf, that'll work fine. If you have any linseed oil, rub it on to the wooden handles to prevent them drying and cracking.

Remember the mower

Trying to start a lawn mower for the first time in the spring can be a hassle, particularly if it hasn’t been touched since the fall. If you haven’t done so already, now’s the time to start up your mower and let it run until the gas tank is empty.

Clean off the mower blades to remove the clumps of compacted grass, and if they need sharpening, this could be a good time to call up a mower service shop and see if they have any winter specials. For a more comprehensive look at winter tool care, see a previous Plant Man column archived at my web site. You can find it here:
www.landsteward.org/page.cfm/5220

Snow covered limbs

Tree limbs, that is, not yours. Remember that trees and shrubs can be damaged by the weight of heavy, wet snow. To prevent or minimize damage, gently shake the branches of delicate trees and shrubs so the heavy snow falls away. You can also use a broom to brush snow from the branches. But be gentle as you don’t want to cause trauma to your tree.

Christmas trees

If you’ve selected a real tree this season, remember the magic word: Water! A “living” tree needs a thorough watering before you bring it into the house, and it shouldn't stay indoors much longer than ten days if you want it to survive outdoors after the Holidays.

A “cut” tree needs water, too. Saw a couple of inches off the cut end and check the water level once or twice a day. You might be surprised to know that a cut tree can absorb as much as a gallon of water a day.

As always, the Internet is a superb resource for both professional landscapers and home gardeners. Here are few winter-related sites you can browse:-

Titled “Winter gardening: design tips that work,” this is a useful article published by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden:
http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/1998wi_winter.html

For a comprehensive list of plants that look good all year but add special interest during winter months, check out this article published online by Iowa State University:
http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1996/4-5-1996/hiver.html

For a list of books on winter gardening, prepared by the science reference service of the Library of Congress, go to:
http://www.loc.gov/rr/scitech/SciRefGuides/wintergardening.html

David Beaulieu, the “guide” at landscaping.about.com is always a good resource and his Web site is loaded with helpful articles. Go to the site, below, and simply type in “winter” (or any other topic) in the search window:
http://landscaping.about.com

Expert (and free) help can usually be found at your nearest Agricultural Extension Service. For your nearest location, go to this USDA site and click on your state on the map:
http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension

And as always, I’m happy to help with your garden and landscape questions, many of which are featured in the column.

Holiday gifts that gardeners will love

2008-12-10T11:34:00.001-08:00

The Holidays are upon us! If you have a garden lover on your gift list, you might be wondering what to buy for him or her. After all, it’s not as if you can cram a dogwood tree into a stocking. No, really, I mean it. Kids, don’t try this at home.

But at this time of year, those of us who love to be outdoors working with our plants get the winter blues as we stare out the window at a bleak landscape, wishing it was spring time. Here are a few gift ideas, under $30.00, for garden lovers…

“The Botanical Palette” by Margaret Stevens, PSBA

Both Cheryl and I enjoy painting. Because our home is surrounded by many acres of trees and shrubs of every size and variety, both wild and cultivated, plants are frequently the subject of our paintings.

We were fascinated by “The Botanical Palette,” subtitled Color for the Botanical Painter, and published by Collins in association with the Society of Botanical Artists. It features 20 step-by-step demonstrations to address the problem that many aspiring artists face when trying to find the ‘right’ colors. The detailed demonstrations reveal exactly how each flower painting is created, from the initial drawing to the finished illustration.

But you don’t even need to be an artist to appreciate this book. With over 300 superbly reproduced color illustrations, this is an excellent gift for anyone who loves the beauty of nature.

The Planket

I’d mentioned this product briefly in a recent column about protecting tender plants from frost, but only now has the weather been cold enough for me to try it. This would be a very practical gift for your gift-list gardener who is concerned about losing plants in a cold snap this winter.

Unlike plastic sheeting or garbage bags, the Planket allows plants to breathe while covered. Plankets are lightweight and easy to handle, and the drawstrings mean they are easy to secure around the base of the plant. They also have grommets in case you need to peg down the cover more securely.

They are available in four sizes: 6 ft, 8 ft and 10 ft diameter and a really big 10 ft x 20 ft rectangular blanket. Cheryl and I first saw the Planket on HGTV’s “I Want That” and you can see a clip from that show at www.theplanket.com

No, a Planket won’t replace diamonds as the most romantic gift, but a true garden fanatic could find one or two of these plant savers very welcome this winter.

Butterfly houses and bat houses

Gardeners love to see butterflies flitting silently around them as they work with their plants. One very good way is to ensure an abundance of butterflies is to provide them with some free lodging. (Another good way is to plant butterfly-attracting shrubs such as Buddleia.)

A butterfly house helps increase the butterfly population and protects them from predators and the elements. The vertical slots let butterflies sneak in safely while the weather and their enemies are kept outside.

If you dislike mosquitoes as much as I do, bats are your real-life heroes, rather than that comic-book superhero. Bats can eat hundreds, even thousands, of mosquitoes in a single night, meaning there are fewer skeeters to feast on me. Hang a few bat houses away from your house and you’ll encourage them to nest there rather than in your attic.

Many bat houses come in kit form so they can be a fun family project. Both adults and kids enjoy assembling the kits, and it’s a good way to understand how beneficial bats are to our environment.

Be sure that any bat house kit you pick is open at the bottom so birds cannot nest in it. You can find good butterfly houses and bat houses for under $30.00.

AccuGrow Soil Test Strips
Testing your soil is the smart way to grow beautiful vegetables, flowers, fruits, lawns and houseplants. Only by knowing the nutrient levels in your soil can you determine what you need to add to maximize growth.

With this product, you simply dip e test strip into a soil sample and you get test results within minutes. Each strip has a chemically impregnated pad that changes color when exposed to soil and is then compared to a color chart to indicate levels of pH, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A good gift, under $30.00, for your gardener!

Abandoned rail tracks become green space haven

2008-11-26T14:03:00.000-08:00

When the original use for a piece of land becomes obsolete, it’s an excellent opportunity to turn it into an area that the entire community can enjoy as an attractive green space, rather than allowing it to degenerate into a weed-covered eyesore.

When a stretch of disused railroad track became available, this reader jumped at the chance to put her green thumb to good use.

QUESTION: “I love your articles and I have a few questions that hopefully you can answer. There is an old railroad track here that has been turned into a bike/snowmobile trail. There is a neighbor’s house next to it but there is enough space to put in a nice size hedge with no problem. The area is quite long before it meets the woods and starts at a city street.

“The suggestion from the County (I am volunteering myself because I am in a landscape horticulture program) was a line of evergreens/shrubs. The department just didn’t exactly know what to put there. On the other side of the trail is a large ditch that I thought may need to be covered in slabs as it is too steep to be easily mowed. Right next to that is the parking lot that needs a fence for bikes and a barrier for the cars to go no further.

“I have been looking for ideas as to what to put for the hedge without just using one type of evergreen but I am not sure how to go about making the easy transition into bringing other types of plants/shrubs to add some variation and would be pleasing to those that are on the trail or from the street where the trail begins.

“Any ideas that you think may be helpful?” – Sue Crabb

ANSWER: This sounds like a very exciting and worthwhile project! I think the evergreens would be excellent as a backdrop for other shrubs that you could plant in front of them. A rule of thumb is to plant the evergreens in odd-numbered groupings such three, five, etc.

For the shrubs, the key issue is “easy to grow.” Avoid high-maintenance plants and look for shrubs that are fairly self-sufficient. Create interest by selecting shrubs of different heights, shapes and colors. Mix evergreens and deciduous perennials, and think about planting some low growing groundcovers, such as creeping red sedum, along the front of the row.

Speaking of groundcovers, rather than cover the ditch with slabs, I suggest you investigate to see if groundcover would be a practical alternative. A hard-to-mow slope is often the perfect place for a dense groundcover that is green and attractive while keeping the weeds at bay.

Vinca minor or trailing periwinkle is a fast growing excellent evergreen groundcover for full sun, shaded and semi-shaded areas. It produces dark green oval-shaped foliage and conspicuous blue flowers in early spring. You can combine trailing periwinkle with Pachysandra if each kind is kept in large colonies, not mixed together. It grows almost flat on the ground, so in the location you describe it would follow the contours of the ditch creating a visually-pleasing undulating line.

You could also use evergreens as a “living fence” to form the barrier for the parking lot. or centerpiece for both sides. A good choice might be pyramidal arborvitae, an evergreen tree with bright green foliage. Most pyramidal arborvitae can reach a height of fifteen to twenty-five feet and have a spread of about three to five feet, but can of course be trimmed to give a lower and flatter topside. They make an excellent screen, and can grow at a rate of about one foot per year. When young, the pyramidal arborvitae has a bright green color to its foliage, which darkens as the plant ages.

Remember, this is not something that needs to be done all at once. Do the base plantings first and then add to it as time and money permits. It makes the task more fun if you can make it a community project in which a number of people can get involved.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Select trees that fit the scale of your landscape

2008-11-21T11:09:00.000-08:00

Just as cute little puppies grow into big dogs, small trees can grow until they overpower both your garden and your home, as I explain to this reader…

QUESTION: “I have a 10' x 12' section of lattice work that I want covered with climbers. It is in a shaded part of the yard. What would you recommend that would be a fast grower?

“I also want to get a fast growing tree for my front yard. Any help will be appreciated.” – Brian

ANSWER: I can suggest several climbing plants that you should look into. You might consider five leaf akebia, variegated porcelain vine, and Boston ivy for your lattice panels. You can find pictures, descriptions and growing tips for them with an online search or a visit to the library.

When it comes to fast-growing trees, take a look at birch, poplar, green ash, and sycamore. An important consideration is size. Be sure to find out what the mature height and spread will be before you plant any tree. If you select a tree that will be much too large for your yard, it will not only be out of scale for your landscape, it has the potential to interfere with overhead power lines, drop heavy limbs onto your roof in a storm or even damage your home’s foundation with its root system.

QUESTION: “My parents have a garden that is overfilled with columbines, a breed named ‘Aquilegia Vulgaris – Clementine Dark Purple’. We have tried two seasons in a row now to rid the garden of these, as my parents aren’t gardeners and these are multiplying by the dozens all over their property. I’ve tried to dig them up in early spring before they flower but each year I must have missed one of two, hence they grow and multiply….. Please help!” - Shannon Genier

ANSWER: You have my sympathy as I am trying to get rid of Wisteria which is one of the tough ones. I’m a little puzzled as the columbine variety you mention is supposed to be non-invasive. In any case, I am using a product called Vine-X.

The active ingredient in Vine-X is in a special vegetable oil formulation that actually penetrates the waterproof bark of invasive vines and brush plants. Once applied to the stem, Vine-X moves through the plant's internal capillary system to the root, where the active ingredient works to disrupt the plant's growth activity.

This may work for you but will have to be done on different sprouts throughout next summer.

QUESTION: “I have an odd entrance area at my condo that was constructed in the early 1970s. I’ve tried several types of container plants in an effort to add some green to the space in the spring and summer, but everything seems to fail. I’ve resorted to artificial boxwood topiaries and hanging baskets with ferns (I set them out for some sun periodically and they last for the summer).

“I was thinking about building window boxes that are about 24” deep so there’s plenty of soil, rigging up grow lights on a timer, and planting ‘Bamboo Green Screen’ in the boxes. I’m questioning if a high wattage grow light will do the trick for this variety of bamboo that says it requires “Full Sun”; would that be successful or would you suggest something else? I’d like to stick to something evergreen and non-flowering.” – Brian Cunningham

ANSWER: I hate to be discouraging, but I have to tell you that it is difficult to take plants that are normally grown outdoors and keep them permanently in such an enclosed area without being subjected to any of the elements. Those types of plants do need at least some rainfall, wind and filtered light in addition to regular watering and fertilizing. There are bamboo varieties that will grow in shaded areas, such as the fargesia panda. Also, hostas, Solomon’s seal, clematis, ferns and astilbes could grow there as well.

But when taking plants out of their normal environments, it can be trial and error to find those that will do okay. Be prepared to experiment until you find those that work best!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Bed sheets keep plants cozy on freezing cold nights

2008-11-12T06:12:00.000-08:00

QUESTION: “I am from Texas and currently I’m living in Ft. Drum, NY, because my husband is in the service. I am not used to snow and I have some plants that I need to know how to take care of.

“They are in my flower bed and are perennials and I don't know if I am supposed to cover them with some sort of plastic or mulch or just dig them up and put them in the garage. I have a red spike plant, lavender salvia, dusty millers, and hostas. I also have a tomato plant that is in a flower pot with a tiny tomato beginning to grow on it.

”Since the weather is changing here, I need to know what I can do. If there is any advice that you can give me, I would appreciate it.” – Brenda

ANSWER: No need to dig them up, Brenda! I know that some gardeners like to put plastic garbage bags over vulnerable plants, and that’s okay in a pinch; for instance if you find out that a freeze is imminent and garbage bags are all you have.

However, my best suggestion is to use cloth sheets, such as old bed sheets. If you don’t have any old sheets, you could invest in some ultra-cheap bed sheets from a dollar store or a thrift store and keep them in the garage or shed specifically for this purpose.

I prefer cloth sheets to plastic sheeting as they allow a better and more natural air flow around the plants. Gently lay the cloth sheets over the plants in the evening, weighting down the edges with rocks if you are expecting strong winds that might blow them away. The next morning, after it begins to warm, simply remove the sheets and put them where they can dry out a bit and are ready for the next chilly night.

On the subject of adverse weather conditions, several readers have asked about an article that my wife Cheryl wrote on the subject. Titled “Hurricanes, Tornadoes, Flooding and Storms,” it includes tips on what to do when natural disasters strike. You can find it on her blog at cherylsnotebook.blogspot.com

QUESTION: “I was wondering if you could help me decide what kind of hedges, trees, etc. to plant along our property line. The area is WET. We’ve tried growing evergreens (3 rounds) and every time they die — too much water. Our neighbor planted river birches along his property line, but I want some hedges as well. Any ideas as to what kind of hedge can withstand lots of water? I would appreciate your help.” – Cristina Elliott

ANSWER: There are a number of plants that like nothing better than a location that keeps their feet wet! When you have a wet landscape, it is pointless to plant shrubs and trees whose natural environment is normal to dry soil as they’ll never live up to your expectations… or even live, for that matter.

Several azaleas (including Coastal, Sweet, Pinkshell and Swamp) like wet areas, as do the Dogwood varieties Tartarian, Silky and Red Osier. In fact, those three can even grow in a certain amount of standing water.

Winterberry, some varieties of Viburnum, Fothergilla and Red Chokeberry are also options, as is Bordeaux yaopon holly, which has the charming scientific name Ilex vomitoria Bordeaux!

There’s an excellent Web site, hosted by North Carolina State University that provides a comprehensive list of wetland-loving plants. Click on each listing and you can see descriptions, details, growing tips and (in most cases) photos. Well worth a visit if you’re dealing with soggy soil! You can find it at www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/quickref/shrubs/shrubs-wetareas.html
As that is a long address, you might prefer to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org where you can click on a hot link.

A bog garden turns wet area into beautiful feature

2008-11-06T10:21:00.000-08:00

Unless we are very lucky, most of us have issues with at least part of our landscape. An area that is nothing but heavy clay that won’t drain, a deeply shaded section that receives little or no sunlight, or an area baked by the sun all day, for example.

It’s tempting to give up on that area and assume that nothing can be done. But quite often a solution can be found, if you are creative and tenacious like this reader…

“Dear Steve: Thank you for addressing the issue of soggy, boggy lawns, and thanks for your link to Brooklyn Botanic Garden [in a recent Plant Man column].

“I live in Washington State, adjacent to a slope which apparently developed a natural spring which flooded a part of the hill and spread into our lawn this summer. Since our soil is mostly compacted clay, my solution was to transplant about 3 feet of the lawn, break up the clay and mix some topsoil and peat moss to about 10" deep. I have planted Louisiana iris, plus some evergreen plants (sword ferns and Ogon) for winter interest. It solved my problem and looks lovely!

“I admit this was hard work, but simpler than the complicated instructions suggested by Brooklyn Botanic Garden. I'm not really into hard labor. I think my bog garden will work as well as theirs with about half the work. Just a thought for your readers ...” – Anne Botwin

Well, Anne, I’m glad this column inspired you to make lemonade out of lemons… or in your case, a bog garden out of a “soggy, boggy lawn”.

When you’re dealing with a sizable area of heavy clay soil, there’s no getting around the sweat equity involved, unless you have some strong, young friends who owe you a favor and are willing to donate a few hours of hard labor. But the results are definitely worth the effort. When you’re done, you have a thing of beauty where once was an eyesore.

Other readers might want to check out the link to the article at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden Web site: http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/handbooks/watergarden/8.html

As that’s a long URL, you might prefer to find this Plant Man column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org, where you can click on a hot link to the article.

In fact, the article is an excerpt from a book that is the ideal reference for anyone looking for help with creating a bog garden. Titled “Water Gardens: Pools, Ponds, Marshes and Bogs for Backyards Everywhere,” it is a collection of highly detailed how-to articles by several acknowledged experts and is part of the Brooklyn Botanic Garden 21st Century Gardening Series.

Another benefit of this book is that different chapters address specific geographic regions with chapter headings such as “Wetland Plants for the Southeast & Deep South” and “Wetland Plants for Western Mountains & Pacific Northwest” so that readers anywhere in the United States will know what will or will not work well in their location.

For example, Anne mentions that she planted sword ferns (Polystichum munitum) in her new bog garden. An excellent choice for her northwestern locale, but I would certainly not recommend it for a bog garden in, say, the southeast. Sword ferns’ natural habitat is the very moist understory of coniferous forests found in low elevations in the northwest. Sword ferns are difficult, if not impossible, to grow in eastern areas.

With bog gardens, as with any garden project, your best bet is to stick with plants that are native to your geographic area, rather than opting for plants that would thrive elsewhere but are unlikely to work in your garden.

Anne used the Botanic Garden article as a starting point but then decided to adapt the guidelines to suit her own preferences. Cheryl and I do exactly the same thing. When necessary we’ll call on experts, such as landscape architects, but we don’t feel obliged to follow everything slavishly. Ask experts, read articles and then personalize with your own creativity!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org