Greg's Exotic Inverts

Discoids Feeding

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sun, 15 Aug 2010 07:28:00 +0000

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I was feeding and watering and though I would do an update feeding video of my Blaberus discoidalis roaches. Discoids make a good alternative feeder to B. dubia roaches. Discoids are a little larger, more meat for size. They breed pretty good in large numbers. Discoids have a bit more defensive odor than B. dubia, but nothing overwhelming and nothing like the stench of crickets. If your looking for a good alternative feeder, discoids well suffice. Checkout my website for availability and pricing.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Jousting Male Hissers

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sun, 15 Aug 2010 07:00:00 +0000

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I was separating one of my G. potentosa roach bins and managed to catch some males left in the bottom fighting, or as I call it, jousting for territory. Cheap entertainment and hilarious to watch. I have probably around 50 or so extra males housed together and they can make quite a ruckus at night between all the jousting going on. They move the egg flats and there food dish around the bin.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Setting Up A Feeder Roach Enclosure

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:28:00 +0000

Setting up your feeder roach bin is pretty straight forward (will add photos as time permits). Scroll down to see items you will need to successfully setup you first roach bin. If you live in a dry climate, less ventilation to hold humidity in. More humid climate, more ventilation. Proper ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels right and to prevent mold and bacteria from growing. Also try to avoid glass tanks as they don't hold heat and humidity well.

Roaches are nocturnal, so most will suggest you use a dark colored container. Although this works for the majority of people, we simply use clear Sterilite plastic bins. In our experience, the light doesn't bother them. Our roaches produce very well even in clear containers.

Most people willuse either Rubbermaid or Sterilite plastic containers. We've used both and have switched to Sterilite brand. Reason is it is smoother plastic. We found that newborn B. dubia could scale the sides of certain Rubermaid bins.

After you have the appropriate housing container, you'll need to add ventilation. Take your lid and cut a single hole of around 8x9 inch out. Get some metal screen mesh (window screen) and hot glue it or silicone, whichever you have will work. Hot glue is quicker, silicone needs to cure 24 hours.

Now your ready for egg flats, egg cartons (cardboard, not plastic), cardboard tunes, etc. Something for your roaches to hide in and feel more safe and secure. Setup your egg flats vertically on one end of your roach bin. Roaches will hide in between them.

Add a food and water dish, preferably shallow. Remember, B. dubia cannot climb smooth plastic. If you don't have a shallow dish, lid, etc... you can take sandpaper and rough up the inside and outside of dishes your using.

Add food source! Roaches in general will eat just about anything. A high protein diet is recommend to maintain a thriving colony. You can get our special blend of roach chow, or use dog food, cereals, oats, etc. Also be sure to give your roaches fruits and veggie scraps each week for variety.

Add a water source! Roaches require a source of water continually to avoid dehydration and ultimately death. One of the best ways to provide water to your roaches, is to use water gel. Water gel is made from water crystals, which absorb up to 400 times there mass. Water gel is a safe alternative to plain water, sponges, etc. Unlike water, your roaches can walk on the water gel without drowning. Avoid using sponges, as they can harbor bacteria, mold and fungus, which can be harmful, even fatal to your feeders.

Next, a heat source (for breeding or cooler climates). There are many mays to heat your roach bin. Be sure to use safety precautions when using a heating device with plastic to avoid any kind of fire hazard. People use heating pads (human), UTH (Under Tank Heater), heat tape, heat cables, heat lamp (not recommended). One way we have heated our roach bins was place a heating pad underneath one end of the roach bin. Plug the heating pad into a thermostat to control temps.

Read our care sheet on B. dubia or our FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for more details on maintaining your roaches. The essential items below can also be purchased from the dry goods page.

Supplies Needed:

*Plastic tub/bin (shoe box size up to 73 qt is adequate for most).
*Metal screen mesh (ventilation).
*Egg flats / cartons, paper towel / toilet paper rolls or similar (hiding & breeding).
*Food and water bowls (deli cups, shallow bowls, lids, etc. work well).
*Razor to cut ventilation hole(s).
*Scissors / razor to cut metal screen mesh.
*Hot glue gun & hot glue sticks for gluing metal screen to lid / bin.
*Roach chow for feeding your feeders (high protein dog food works or our special blend).
*Water crystals to make water gel to hydrate & provide humidity for your feeders.
*Roach barrier to prevent climbing of some species & small nymphs (packing tape, Vaseline, etc.).
*Last, but not least, feeder roaches (purchase here).

Rosie Molted no Babies!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:09:00 +0000

A quick update to those who have been following the progress of my G. rosea breeding project.

I bred her last November 09'. She was getting larger and larger and was due this month! I checked today and she had freshly molted. So it appears I won't be getting an egg sac after all. Instead I get a fresh molt, what a trade off.

She is gorgeous though. It's probably a good thing she molted. Since I had bred her, my roach production and business has skyrocketed. So I wouldn't of had much time now anyhow, so all is good.

Incubating Bearded Dragon Eggs!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 19:08:00 +0000

When I was breeding my dragons, I would keep the temps inside the incubator at 84F with humidity at around 80%-90%. I no longer keep or breed bearded dragons. They are in my opinion one of the most awesome species of lizards out there. If your new to the hobby and are thinking of breeding your bearded dragons, follow these simple steps for incubating and you too could have 100% hatchouts.

First, when you know your female is ready to deposit her eggs, get your incubator setup. Weather its homemade or commercial, you need to have the temps and humidity ready for the new eggs. Incubating the eggs is simple, the hard part is the long wait and anticipation to hatching.

Okay, after you have your incubator setup and ready to go, your waiting for your female to drop those eggs. In the meantime take a plastic container with a lid about the size of a sandwich holder or larger, but small enough to fit in the incubator. Add vent holes on the side, then fill half way with damp vermiculite (Walmart). I would use vermiculite cause it is bacteria free, doesn't promote mold or fungus and is better for the eggs.

Now, your females has deposited her eggs and your ancious to dig them up. Don't dig them up in front of her, place her back into her enclosure or separate container out of site of her eggs. Locate and uncover the eggs very carefully. Use a spoon to pickup the eggs one by one and gently set the eggs on top of the vermiculite in the same position the mother deposited them.

Gently mist or squirt water over the eggs to wash them off. Place the lid on container firmly, date and set in incubator. Periodically check to make sure your temps and humidity are good and also do a visual on the eggs to make sure there still good. When you first put the eggs in, they may collapse slightly, this is normal and they will fill out again after a few days.

If the eggs are good, you'll see them grow slightly over the 2 month period of waiting. Bad eggs turn yellowish brown, remove if you see these. When its time to hatch, they all should hatch out within a 3 day period. They generally won't start to eat until there 3rd or 4th day of life. Once they start eating, you better have plenty of food.

I fed baby roaches, both B. dubia and B. lateralis nymphs. If your feeding crickits, you'll need 2 week old crickets (1/4"). My newborn beardies would eat upwards of 5-10+ roaches a day each plus there mustard greens. They would grow an average of 1/2" a week on roaches. In six weeks they would be ready to sale at 6"+. If your thinking of selling them, wait till at least 6 weeks of age. At this age there stong enough to handle shipping overnight. Following the info mentioned above and you should have healthy baby dragons.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens "GBB" Update!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 19:02:00 +0000

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A brief update on my Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens. (GBB) that I purchased back in August 09. They were half inch then and now 3"+. They have molted around 4 times now in my care. They'll take down adult male B. dubia without a problem. Quite a move up from the B. lateralis they were eating.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Packing Tarantulas for Shipping!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 18:46:00 +0000

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A brief tutorial of how I pack my tarantulas safely for shipping. Always use appropriate size container for tarantula being shipped. Line bottom, sides and top with tissue, napkin or similar. You want to mimic a burrow for the tarantula so it feels at home and also the tissue helps protect the tarantula during shipment.

After adding tissue linning, moisten slightly to help keep tarantula hydrated during its trip. Once you coax the tarantula into the container, cover with cap and place in insulated box with heat or cold pack. depending on season along with packing material to keep tarantula safe and stable during transit. This is how I pack and ship, with great success.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Before you Buy your Feeders Roaches!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:08:00 +0000

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Watch more videos here!

Setting up your feeder roaches!
The video shows one variation of how a typical setup would be for your B. dubia / B. lateralis and various other feeder roaches. Items you may need are listed below. If you live in a dry climate, less ventilation to hold humidity in. More humid climate, more ventilation. Proper ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels right and to prevent mold and bacteria from growing. Also try to avoid glass tanks as they don't hold heat and humidity well. The essential items below can also be purchased from our website.

Supplies Needed:

Plastic tub/bin (shoe box size up to 73 qt is adequate for most).
Metal screen mesh (ventilation).
Egg flats / cartons, paper towel / toilet paper rolls or similar (hiding & breeding).
Food and water bowls (deli cups, shallow bowls, lids, etc. work well).
Razor to cut ventilation hole(s).
Scissors / razor to cut metal screen mesh.
Hot glue gun & hot glue sticks for gluing metal screen to lid / bin.
Roach chow for feeding your feeders (high protein dog food works or our special blend).
Water crystals to make water gel to hydrate & provide humidity for your feeders.
Roach barrier to prevent climbing of some species & small nymphs (packing tape, Vaseline, etc.).
Last, but not least, feeder roaches (purchase here).

Shoe box size containers work great if you just need a small colony to feed a couple or a few tarantulas, etc. If you have larger reptiles or need a larger colony, then step up to a larger tub / bin. If all you can find are clear tubs / bins, thats fine too. Roaches are nocturnal for the most part and prefer it dark. Take some black or dark colored paper and mask around your roach bin to give the roaches the darkness they desire. Personally, we use clear bins and the roaches continue to breed without a problem.

Before you begin preparing your roach bin, make some water gel from the water crystals you may of gotten with your roaches. Water crysals are a safe alternative to keeping your roaches hydrated without the risk of drowning. Takes a few hours to make, so now is a good time to start.

Use scissors / razor to cut a hole out of your lid anywhere from a quater the length to full, depending on where you live. If its dry in your area, smaller hole to keep humidity in. If its more humid where you live, more ventilation to keep condensation from building. Use a hot glue gun or similar to glue / secure a piece of metal screen mesh over the hole you cut.

Even though most feeder roaches are non-climbing, the newborn baby nymphs can generally climb because there so small and light. So as a precaution, use clear packing tape, roach barrier or similar along the inside top portion of your roach bin. A good 2"-3" strip will usually kreep them in.

Now add a few egg flats / cartons, placing them vertically close together. Helps the roaches feel more secure and comfortable allowing them to hide and breed better. Leave room to add a food and water container as well. Any shallow bowl or lid will work just fine. Add some high protein roach chow, dog food or similar to one of the bowls and water gel to the other.

Most feeder roaches don't require any substrate, so none is needed. It just makes it more difficult to cull your coloony for new nymphs as most like to burrow first chance they get. Well now your reeady to add your roaches. If you bought them from Greg's Exotic Inverts, they'll be in a small video size box or similar. Take the box of feeders and open it over your roach bin. Using your fingers, tongs or similar, pull the piece of egg flat out with roaches atatched. Either shake feeders loose or set piece of egg flat in bin and remove latert. Dump / shake remaining feeders into bin and your setup.

Roaches are very easy to keep, breed and maintain. I sugest you use 3 tubs / bins. One for breeders, one for feeders and a spare for containing feeders while cleaning. Happy roaching!!!!

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Culling B. lateralis Nymphs!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 08:23:00 +0000

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I was changing out and upgrading my B. fusca roaches and figured it would be a great time to do an update and show there progress. Back in May/June 2009, I had discovered 2 adult B. fusca in my B. dubia roach bin. Turned out to be male and female. Shortly there after, the female started producing. She has had 3 clutches of baby nymphs to date, I counted 31 roaches, including the adults. A few of the 1st generation nymphs are now subadults. Won't be to much longer and they'll be adults too.

Blaberus fusca (Dwarf Cave Roach) comes from South America. This species ranges in size from 2"-2.75" (55-70mm). B. fusca is identified by a black band across its mid-section. Although not as long as the B. giganteus, this roach tends to weigh more as its much bulkier. This species seems to breed well. These roaches usually mature in 3-5 months and live another 8-12 months. Both males and females have wings. This species are very reclusive and fast to move at first disturbance. This is a non-climbing/flying species and also used as feeders. This species of roach also makes a great display pet because of there size and beauty.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Nauphoeta cinerea Colony

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sat, 06 Feb 2010 19:25:00 +0000

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A short video on my Nauphoeta cinerea (Lobster Roach) colony. Tropical species found in the Carribean.

These roaches are slightly larger than B. lateralis and fast. Prolific breeders and multiply readily even with minimal care, females give live birth. Both males and females are winged. As with most of your common feeder roaches, a plastic bin or tote will work to contain them

This species climbs, so you'll need a barrier of some kind like Vaseline or similar to keep them in. You can purchase slick roach barrier that I use from my website. The roach barrier we use withstands high temps and won't run like Vaseline when the weather warms up. To keep roaches in, just smear a thin 2-3 inch layer around the top inside edge of your container. From what Ii have seen, they seem to want to stay in, more than climb out.

Use egg flats or similar to provide hiding areas for your N. cinerea. As you can see in the video, we're using carboard cell partions instead egg flats. The adsvantage is they have more surface area to hang around and breed. The bin has better ventilation to prevent unwanted gases, etc. to build up. Much easier to clean and maintain.

Some people use substrate in there roach bins, such as bran, coco fiber, etc., but that makes it harder to keep the roach enclosure clean. It also difficult to get the baby N. cinerea roaches out of the bedding as they will hide in it.

N. cinerea roaches mature in about about 3-4 months from newborn to adult. Once females are gravid, they will carry young for approximately one month and give live birth to 30-40 nymphs every month or so. The nymphs are very small, about 3/16", but grow quickly. As with most feeder roaches, a high protein diet, plus a good moisture source, like water gel, and your colony will be thriving in no time. It is best to allow your N. cinerea roach colony to become fully established before feeding heavily out of it. Six months is a good time to allow the colony to establish before feeding them off. The more adult breeders there are, the more young are produced.

Important note: Once your N. cinerea colony becomes sizeable, it is best to split them up. If you don't, be prepared, sooner or later the the colony will literally explode. Roaches can produce a toxic gas that can and may kill your entire colony unless it is well ventilated. I had this experience with B. lateralis species. Lost 1000's because I kept putting off the culling process. Once your colony is established, you'll have plenty of different size feeders for your pets.

I should have N. cinerea for sale in a few months. I will do another update around May to show how the colony has grown.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

New Roaches

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 04:55:00 +0000

I recently added 3 new species of roaches to my collection. This bring my collection up to 8 species now.

Recently added:
Blaberus craniifer (True Death Head Roach) Black wings
B. craniifer comes from Central America, Mexico, and Florida. This species ranges in size from 1.5"-2"+ (40-55mm) in length. It gets its name "Death’s Head Roach" from the pattern on its pronotum (behind head) that looks like a skull. Personally I think it looks like a bear face. This species is still highly sought after by roach enthusiasts and one of the hardest to find in the hobby. True B. craniifer are very light almost white around the pronotum and have jet-black wings. These roaches usually mature in 3-5 months and then live another 6-18 months. Both males and females have wings. This is a non-climbing/flying species and also used as feeders.

Gromphadorhina portentosa (Madagascar hissing cockroach) Normal Hisser
The Gromphadorhina Portentosa, (Madagascan Hissing Cockroach) comon hissier is brown, with orange markings on its abdomen. Hissers don't have wings or wings pads at any stage in its life. G. Portentosa has small holes (spiracles) for breathing along its back. If the hissing cockroach forces air out quickly, it makes a hissing sound similar to snake. It makes a hissing sound when threatened or to establish dominance between males. G. Portentosa are nocturnal and generally active at night. When fully grown, the male and female cockroaches look different. G. Portentosa can climb smooth surfaces. A thin coat of petrolium jelly or similar around the top portion of the enclosure, about a 2 inch strip will work just fine. You can also keep them in with a screened lid.

Males of this species are very territorial and need there space for successful breeding. G. Portentosa are live bearers and reproduce fairly slowly, about evey 60 days compared to B. dubia, which is about every 30 days. G. Portentosa can be used as feeders when the roaches are in thier growth stage as young nymphs, before adults when there shell get to hard for most reptiles to digest. This species of roach gets very big, about 3.5+" and quite heavy. G. Portentosa make for a great diplay pets, weather it be in a classroom or at home.

These roaches can be quite comical to watch when the males joust with the big spikes on the thorax. There very handlable. At first they'll seem to want to get away, but calm down shortly after then remain calm and very docile.

Blaberus giganteus (Giant Cave Roach)
B. giganteus comes from the West Indies and throughout Central and South America. This species ranges in size from 2.75"-3.5"+. This is one of the larger species of roaches. B. giganteus roaches take 9-12 months to reach adulthood, considerably longer, then most blaberus species. They live another 3-15 months after maturing into adults. This is a non-climbing species of smooth glass and plastic. Both males and females get large wings (wing spans may be up to 5”). Females are to heavy to fly after final molt, but lighter males will attempt to fly. Although the males can't sustain flight very long, they can often jump a couple of feet high, so a screen top or similir is a must. Males can be seen jumping around when they are fighting with other males. This species is generally kept as display pets, but can also be used as feeders for various reptiles and inverts. Beautiful roach as adults.

I will be doing video updates later on all these species.

Update:
My Blaberus fusca (Dwarf Cave Roach) are now upwards of 20 or so and doing well. Started with just the mal and female back in May of 2009. She has produced 3 ootheca so far. The first ones to hatch are now about the size of a quarter.

DISCLAIMER: Information contained herein represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Video Review!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 00:54:00 +0000

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Feeders: B. dubia roaches.
These are great feeders for various reptiles and inverts of all sizes. The video review above was done by tomcatpilot13, another satisfied customer who had purchased some large B. dubia nymphs for his bearded dragons.

DISCLAIMER: Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Handling Your T Safely!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:54:00 +0000

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WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you’re experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc…before handling these wonderful creatures.

Thought I would do a tarantula handling video for a client who had asked me how to safely handle her new B. smithi as it grows. While doing another breeding attempt with my G. rosea's, I had the male in my hands and thought "handling video". He cooperated really well.

Before attempting to hold your tarantula, test to make sure it is safe. You should never just reach in and grab your tarantula. You risk getting bit. If your tarantula is hungry, it could easily mistake your finger for a giant roach. Take a paint brush, or a pair of tongs or similar nd gently nudge the tarantulas back end. If it flicks urticating hairs, or worse yet, turns around rapidly and bites whatever your using to probe, then its not a good time to handle.

If however your tarantula scrolls up the side after nudging, then gently hold your hand at the edge for it to crawl onto. When handling your tarantula, never hold hi above the floor. Tarantulas bodies are very delicate. If it should fall from a couple of feet or more, it could severally injure or be fatal. So always take precautions and handle over a table, counter, bed or on the floor.

When handling your tarantula, they generally will walk forward in your hands. As your tarantula moves forward, move your free hand under and forward of your other hand so the tarantula has a consistant path to walk. While handling, never breathe or blow directly the tarantula. Doing so could startle it and cause it to become nervous and run off your hands.

Always place your hand in front when attempting to pickup. Only advanced keepers should attempt grabbing from above or behind. When done handling, just place your hand palm up inside the tarantulas enclosure and let it walk off gradually. Now you can safely handle your tarantula without to many concerns.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Brachypelma vagans Slings

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:35:00 +0000

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Picked up some Brachypelma vagans (Mexican Red-Rump) slings locally from a breeder. The slings are captive bred (cb) and about 0.3" - 0.5" in legspan. There eating well. I have been feeding newborn B. lateralis nymphs twice a week. Fascinating to watch something so small catch its prey. I have plenty available for those interested. Click the link above to get started!

Brachypelma vagans (Mexican Red-Rump) are native of Mexico, and frequently found in Belize, El Salvador and Guatemala in deep burrows. This is a very beautiful New World Terrestrial species of tarantula, with very distinctive jet black legs and abdomen. As they mature, the abdomen is covered with fine red hairs (hense the common name Red-Rump). The carapace is edged with cream and has thin radiating lines of cream coloring. They are typically docile, though they can appear aggressive, are a bit skittish and are prone to kicking urticating hairs, so not recomended for handling. If handling, use caution! They can move very quickly when startled! They reach a legspan of around 5 inches with males generally a little smaller. Females can live up to 15 years.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Aphonopelma chalcodes Care Sheet

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 06:44:00 +0000

Scientific Name: Aphonopelma chalcodes

Common Name: Desert Blonde Tarantula

Geographic Range: Southwestern United States, especially Arizona, New Mexico, and Southern California

Habitat/Species type: Terrestrial, New World

Terrestrial refers to ground dweller, burrower.

Arboreal refers to tree dwellers.

New World species found in the Americas tend to be more docile, less venomous, kick urticating hairs for defense.

Old World species found throughout the rest of the world, like Asia, Africa, Europe, etc... generally more aggressive, stronger venom, more apt to bite.

Temperature: 72°F-85°F Humidity: Moderate/High

Growth/Size: Fast / 6" legspan Experience Level: Beginner

Temperament: Little aggressive
Tarantulas vary from docile to very aggressive, skittish, nervous, urticating hair flicker. Read "WARNING" at the end of this care sheet!

Food: Crickets and feeder roaches are most common in captivity. You can also offer mealworms, superworms, etc... DO NOT USE wild caught insects due to insecticides/pesticides and parasites threat.

Water: It is IMPORTANT to always keep an open water dish, full of water in your tarantulas enclosure at all times. This keeps them hydrated and helps keep humidity up! For slings, keep substrate moist. For juveniles and adults, water dish should be non-toxic, shallow and no wider than the body length of your tarantula. NEVER USE cotton balls or sponges to supply water or moisture, may promote mold and harmful bacteria that could be harmful to your tarantula and/or it's enclosure.

Substrate: Peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite. Kept on the damp side.
Provide 4"-12" of substrate packed down for burrowers. Tarantulas that require low-moderate humidity should be kept on a dry substrate.

Enclosure/Cage: 5 gal tank, showbox size sterile plastic container, etc. is adequate.
Rule of thumb for enclosures is about 1½-2 times the width and length of your tarantula for terrestrial along with 3"-8" of substrate packed for burrowers. For arboreals, they need more height then ground space, 1"-2" of substrate. Provide long pieces of cork bard, branches, etc. to climb on for aboreals. You may provide a hide for a quick retreat if it is startled or feels threatened..

Longevity: 8 to 10 years for males and females to mature and Females live (up to 20 years).

Description:
Aphonopelma chalcodes cepholothorax is gray to dark brown and the abdomen is dark brown to black. Aphonopelma chalcodes often resides in burrows in the desert soil. It makes its burrows by digging itself under stones or by utilizing burrows discarded by rodents or other animals. It may live in the same burrow for decades. Males come out when mature after 10-12 years and search for a mate. Since it lives in the desert, Aphonopelma chalcodes is acclimated to harsh weather conditions. It does not require much water to survive, and can therefore survive in the extreme heat of the desert.

Keeping in captivity as pets:
Use medium to large Kritter Keepers, 5 gal tanks, etc... for juveniles, up to adults. This species prefers dry substrate, so moderate/high humidity levels will work and temps between 72F-85F work. Substrate can be peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite mixture and should be at least 2"-4" deep to provide adequate burrowing for slings and juveniles. Aphonopelma chalcodes can be a little more aggressive then other beginner species.

WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you're experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc...before handling these wonderful creatures.

DISCLAIMER: Information contained herein represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. There are still allot unknown about certain species, so if you feel this article needs correcting/clarification, please comment below and I will make adjustments where necessary. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn

Aphonopelma hentzi Drinking!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:48:00 +0000

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While down in the city picking up some B. vagans slings, the seller gave me a free Aphonopelma hentzi (Oklahoma Brown). She was in a yogurt cup and needed to be transfered to a new container. As soon as I put her in her new home, she went sraight for the water, so I thought I would film it.

Its important to keep water in with all your tarantulas and scorpions regardless of size. I use little ink caps for my slings, they work well. This species will get a legspan of about 4"-5" and make a great beginner tarantula. Takes 8-10 to mature after which females have been know to live up to 35 years and males up to 12.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Grammostola pulchripes Care Sheet

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Scientific Name: Grammostola pulchripes - formerly Grammostola aureostriata

Common Name: Chaco Golden Knee

Geographic Range: Paraguay, Argentina

Habitat/Species type: Terrestrial / New World

Terrestrial refers to ground dweller, burrower.

Arboreal refers to tree dwellers.

New World species found in the Americas tend to be more docile, less venemous, kick urticating hairs for defense.

Old World species found throughout the rest of the world, like Asia, Africa, Europe, etc... generally more aggressive, stronger venom, more apt to bite.

Temperature: 70*F-85*F Humidity: Low-Moderate

Growth Size: Fast / Up to 8.5" legspan Experience Level: Beginner

Temperament: Docile, urticating hairs
Tarantulas vary from docile to very aggressive, skittish, nervous, urticating hair flicker. Read "WARNING" at the end of this care sheet!

Food: Crickets and roaches are most common in captivity. You can also offer mealworms, superworms, etc... DO NOT USE wild caught insects due to insecticides/pesticides and parasites threat.

Water: It is IMPORTANT to always keep an open water dish, full of water in your tarantulas enclosure at all times. This keeps them hydrated and helps keep humidity up! For slings, keep substrate moist. For juveniles and adults, water dish should be non-toxic, shallow and no wider than the body length of your tarantula. NEVER USE cotton balls or sponges to supply water or moisture, may promote mold and harmful bacteria that could be harmful to your tarantula and/or it's enclosure.

Substrate: Peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite.
Provide 4"-12" of substrate packed down for burrowers. Tarantulas that require low-moderate humidity should be kept on a dry substrate.

Enclosure/Cage: Up to a 20 gal. tank.
Rule of thumb for enclosures is about 1½-2 times the width and length of your tarantula for terrestrial. For arboreal, they need more height then ground space, 1"-2" of substrate. Provide long pieces of cork bard, branches, etc. to climb on for arboreal. You may provide a hide for a quick retreat if it is startled or feels threatened..

Longevity: ?

Description:
Grammostola pulchripes tends to be one of the more docile and calm species of tarantula and therefore makes a great first pet. Grammostola pulchripes is an opportunistic burrowing terrestrial tarantula. They tend to burrow when younger and adopt a pre-existing hide as its home when it begins to mature. It is quite flashy in appearance, bearing long light-colored hairs all over its body and gold stripes on its legs, particularly at the "knees", hence "Golden Knee".

Keeping in captivity as pets:
You can use medium to large Kritter Keepers, 5 gal tanks, etc... for juveniles, up to 20 gal. tank for adults. This species prefers the dry side, so moderate humidity levels will work and temps between 72*F-85*F work. Substrate can be peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite mixture and should be at least 2"-4" deep to provide adequate burrowing for slings and juveniles. Grammostola pulchripes makes a great display tarantula, they are very docile and perfect for any beginner. Care is very similar to the Grammostola rosea, except this species will eat more and grow much faster.

WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you're experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc...before handling these wonderful creatures.

DISCLAIMER: Information contained herin represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Comments on/about/experience are all welcome. There are still allot unknown about certain species, so if you feel this article needs correcting/clarification, please comment below and I will make adjustments where necessary. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Ephebopus uatuman Care Sheet

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 23:02:00 +0000

Scientific Name: Ephebopus uatuman

Common Name: Emerald Skeleton

Geographic Range: Brazil

Habitat/Species type: Terrestrial, New World

Terrestrial refers to ground dweller, burrower.

Arboreal refers to tree dwellers.

New World species found in the Americas tend to be more docile, less venemous, kick urticating hairs for defense.

Old World species found throughout the rest of the world, like Asia, Africa, Europe, etc... generally more aggressive, stronger venom, more apt to bite.

Temperature: 72*F-85*F Humidity: Moderate/High

Growth Size: Fast / 3" - 4" legspan Experience Level: Beginner

Temperament: Skittish, nervous, defensive
Tarantulas vary from docile to very aggressive, skittish, nervous, urticating hair flicker. Read "WARNING" at the end of this care sheet!

Food: Crickets and feeder roaches are most common in captivity. You can also offer mealworms, superworms, etc... DO NOT USE wild caught insects due to insecticides/pesticides and parasites threat.

Water: It is IMPORTANT to always keep an open water dish, full of water in your tarantulas enclosure at all times. This keeps them hydrated and helps keep humidity up! For slings, keep substrate moist. For juveniles and adults, water dish should be non-toxic, shallow and no wider than the body length of your tarantula. NEVER USE cotton balls or sponges to supply water or moisture, may promote mold and harmful bacteria that could be harmful to your tarantula and/or it's enclosure.

Substrate: Peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite. Kept on the damp side.
Provide 4"-12" of substrate packed down for burrowers. Tarantulas that require low-moderate humidity should be kept on a dry substrate.

Enclosure/Cage: 5 gal tank, showbox size sterile plastic container, etc. is adequate.
Rule of thumb for enclosures is about 1½-2 times the width and length of your tarantula for terrestrial along with 3"-8" of substrate packed for burrowers. For arboreals, they need more height then ground space, 1"-2" of substrate. Provide long pieces of cork bard, branches, etc. to climb on for aboreals. You may provide a hide for a quick retreat if it is startled or feels threatened..

Longevity: ?

Description:
Ephebopus uatuman tarantulas have a somewhat inappropriate "Common Name", as the emerald sheen about the carapace and the greenish tint to the anterior dorsal side of the abdomen fade quickly after a molt, generally within a month. The "Skeleton" stripes on the legs are barely evident. Most of the time, they are generally a khaki to olive in color. After a fresh molt, the green hues are usually more evident, and the inside of legs have a more purple/blue tone to them. So to enjoy the full beauty of Ephebopus uatuman, you need to observe write after a molt, cause it won't last long. Mature males are richer in color than there counterparts.

Keeping in captivity as pets:
Use medium to large Kritter Keepers, 5 gal tanks, etc... for juveniles, up to adults. This species prefers damp substrate, so moderate/high humidity levels will work and temps between 72F-85F work. Spritz substrate about once a week to help maintain a higher humidity. Substrate can be peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite mixture and should be at least 2"-4" deep to provide adequate burrowing for slings and juveniles. Ephebopus uatuman can be somewhat defensive species, not recommended for handling, due to they masy bite if they feel threatened. They tend to be skittish to nervouse in behavior.

WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you're experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc...before handling these wonderful creatures.

DISCLAIMER: Information contained herin represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Comments on/about/experience are all welcome. There are still allot unknown about certain species, so if you feel this article needs correcting/clarification, please comment below and I will make adjustments where necessary. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Brachypelma smithi Care Sheet

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:21:00 +0000

Scientific Name: Brachypelma smithi

Common Name: Mexican Red-Knee

Geographic Range: Mexico

Habitat/Species type: Terrestrial, New World

Terrestrial refers to ground dweller, burrower.

Arboreal refers to tree dwellers.

New World species found in the Americas tend to be more docile, less venemous, kick urticating hairs for defense.

Old World species found throughout the rest of the world, like Asia, Africa, Europe, etc... generally more aggressive, stronger venom, more apt to bite.

Temperature: 72*F-85*F Humidity: Moderate

Growth Size: Slow / 5.5" - 6.5" legspan Experience Level: Beginner

Temperament: Considered docile, but may be skittish too.
Tarantulas vary from docile to very aggressive, skittish, nervous, urticating hair flicker. Read "WARNING" at the end of this care sheet!

Food: Crickets and feeder roaches are most common in captivity. You can also offer mealworms, superworms, etc... DO NOT USE wild caught insects due to insecticides/pesticides and parasites threat.

Water: It is IMPORTANT to always keep an open water dish, full of water in your tarantulas enclosure at all times. This keeps them hydrated and helps keep humidity up! For slings, keep substrate moist. For juveniles and adults, water dish should be non-toxic, shallow and no wider than the body length of your tarantula. NEVER USE cotton balls or sponges to supply water or moisture, may promote mold and harmfull bacteria that could be harmfull to your tarantula and/or it's enclosure.

Substrate: Peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite. Kept on the dry side.
Provide 4"-12" of substrate packed down for burrowers. Tarantulas that require low-moderate humidity should be kept on a dry substrate.

Enclosure/Cage: 5 - 10 gal tank, double showbox size sterile plastic container, etc. is adequate.
Rule of thumb for enclosures is about 1½-2 times the width and length of your tarantula for terrestrial along with 3"-8" of substrate packed for burrowers. For arboreals, they need more height then ground space, 1"-2" of substrate. Provide long pieces of cork bard, branches, etc. to climb on for aboreals. You may provide a hide for a quick retreat if it is startled or feels threatened..

Longevity: 5-7 years to maturity and Females (up to 20 years).

Description:
Brachypelma smithi originates from Mexico and Panama where it lives in semi-desert scrubland. The abdomen is usually jet black in color. The legs are black with stripes of orange/tan/cream variations. The carapace is usually creamy/beige with a distinctive black patch. Brachypelma smithi is a suitable starter tarantula, due to it's forgiving nature and relatively easy temperament. Be warned as it can be a bit of a hair-flicker and tends to be a little skittish. Overall a great tarantula have as a display specimen.

Keeping in captivity as pets:
For adults you can use medium to large Kritter Keepers, 5 gal tanks, etc... for juveniles, up to 10 gal. tank for adults. This species prefers the dry side, so moderate humidity levels will work and temps between 72F-85F work. Substrate can be peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite mixture and should be at least 2"-4" deep to provide adequate burrowing for slings and juveniles. Young Brachypelma smithi may burrow, but once they become adults (5-7 years), they tend to just sit around on the surface. I refer to these as "Pet Rocks". Brachypelma smithi are considered the ideal starter Tarantula, due there forgiving nature and easy temperament. Brachypelma smithi are generally considered a docile species, certainly handling is possible, but not considered, due to their urticating hairs.

WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you're experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc...before handling these wonderful creatures.

DISCLAIMER: Information contained herin represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Comments on/about/experience are all welcome. There are still allot unknown about certain species, so if you feel this article needs correcting/clarification, please comment below and I will make adjustments where necessary. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

G. rosea 1st Pairing!

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:25:00 +0000

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Short breeding video of my Grammostola rosea's (Chilean Rose Hair). It looked like it may of been successful. Hard to tell, my son was filming and got excited and lowered the camera below view of possible insertion. I have tried two more attempts to be sure, but the male refuses to get close. Once he detects the female, he is outta of there, up and over the edge running. Time well tell. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Nhandu coloratovillosus Slings 2i

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:07:00 +0000

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Nhandu coloratovillosus (Brazilian Black and White) slings. These things are tiny, about 1/4 inch and I think there 2i. They are eating and starting to web a little. N. coloratovillosus are somewhat fast growers reaching a legspan of around 7 inches. These new world terrestrial species likes moderate to high humidity. There semi aggressive and probably shouldn't be handled. Updates to follow as they progress.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

3 Post Molts

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:00:00 +0000

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Had a few Ts molt in the past few days, thought I would share there progress.

Brachypelma smithi 1"
(Mexica Red Knee)

Phormictopus cancerides ¾"
(Hatian Brown)

Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens 1½"
(Green Bottle Blue)

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

New Hisser Colony

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 22:10:00 +0000

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Thought I would share my ne Gromphadorhina portentosa (Madagascar Hissing Cockroach) colony. These roaches are huge, 3 inches plus. These types of roaches make good pets for some. Adult Hissers have been know to live up to 5 years in captivity. They can also be used as feeders for large lizards and tarantulas. As adults, they have a hard exoskeleton for protection. I weigh an adult female and it weighed 11g.

Both males and females are wingless. Males are identified by prominent protrusions called pronatal humps on there thorax that appear to look like horns. Males are also territorial. They will buck heads and push around any male that tries to enter his territory. Males without a territory don't usually breed. So make sure you give your colony plenty of floor space Females give live birth after about 60 days to anywhere from 15-40 nymphs. These things hiss when disturbed or to ward of predators.

Humidity levels need to be high for this species. High humidity and temps promotes good healthy molts and good breeding. Hissers eat just about any kind of vegetables. Carrot is said to be one of there favorites. They also need a high protein diet to prevent adult males from eating others. Substrate isn't needed, but if you decide to use it, red wheat bran is said to work best.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens "GBB" Sling Feeding

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 21:42:00 +0000

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Feeding video of my little 1 inch+ Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens "Green Bottle Blue" slings. There eating B. lateralis roaches. These C. cyaneopubescens have more than doubled there size in the last few weeks. They have been feeding really well and growing like weeds. Looking forward to there adult colorations

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Brachypelma smithi Sling Feeding Video 3

noreply@blogger.com (Greg's Inverts Inverts) — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 21:31:00 +0000

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Feeding video of my little 1 inch+ Brachypelma smithi slings. I managed to catch 4/7 catch there B. lateralis roaches. The others that didn't eat either recently molted or were in pre-molt. Some pretty good tags. There starting to show there adult colors. Another molt or two and they'll be looking good.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc... will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn't violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.