Grill Diaries

Dining in Berlin: Roberta kocht!

2010-11-20T12:41:00.008-06:00

There was a little restaurant on Zionskirchstrasse in Berlin where I used to go for great comfort food. Hoping to revisit this place, I rounded the corner only to discover that a different restaurant is now located in the space: Roberta kocht !. The menu looked appealing (plenty of traditional offerings), so I went inside.

It's a small room with only a few tables. Upon entering, I realized I was the only guest. Roberta (I'm assuming that's her name) invited me to come up and take a place near the kitchen. We had a nice conversation as she was whipping up some amazing Swabian style vittles.

She started me out with some homemade bread and a little saucer of olive oil with chunks of coarse salt added.

Meanwhile, a few more guests arrived.

Everything on the menu looked really tasty, and I couldn't decide. I asked her what she recommended, and without hesitation she replied "die Maultaschen!" The best way I can describe it is as Swabian lasagna. There's no tomato sauce but it's put together in a similar way - layers of homemade pasta/dumplings filled with vegetables, meat, and spices.

A little while later, after a pleasant chat about Berlin and the neighborhood, she placed something in front of me that may be one of the most beautiful meals I've ever seen.

Schwäbische Maultaschen served with lentils and warm potato salad.

It was a huge portion, but I don't get this kind of meal every day, so I parked myself there until I had finished the entire plate. Fortunately, I had a nice long walk home afterwards.

Dining in Berlin: Bötzow Privat

2010-11-12T15:17:00.076-06:00

Okay, the next few posts are not about grilling, but really this blog is about great food. So I'm delighted to share with you a few of the dining experiences I've been enjoying while in Berlin.

Whenever I'm in Deutschland, I love to eat traditional German food. The quality is amazing. You can stumble into virtually any restaurant that offers German cuisine, and you'll get a great meal.

My first dinner was at Bötzow Privat in Berlin-Mitte. The website describes the restaurant as "a modern inn located in the elegant environment of a typical 1920s Berlin pub." I ordered a Schnitzel and fried potatoes served with a big ol' glass of German beer. It was a bit dark, so the images are a little blurry, but this also conveys the dark coziness of the place.

I was first served a beautiful fresh salad with bread and half-liter of Bötzow beer.

Then came the main course: Schnitzel mit Rostkartoffeln - in my own regional speak "chicken fried steak with fried potatoes." But the best damn chicken fried steak you ever ate. Incredibly tender and flavorful. Dinner and two beers cost me about $20.

Here are some impressions of the interior:

More to come...

Steak and cod

2010-06-09T12:14:00.012-05:00

An old friend was in town visiting, so we decided it was time for a true indulgence: all-natural, grass-fed sirloins from Whole Foods. Never cheap but always outstanding.

For best results, remove the steaks from the refrigerator at least an hour before cooking to let them warm up to room temperature. Immediately unwrap them and coat with coarse granules of sea salt. This extracts moisture from the meat and locks in the flavor and natural juices.

After about an hour of dabbing off the moisture with a towel every few minutes, we wiped the excess salt from the steaks. I'd never tried this salting technique before my visiting friend suggested it. Of course, the quality of the meat was extraordinary, but the pre-salting made the meat exceptionally tasty and succulent.

I placed foil-wrapped potatoes (seasoned with olive oil, fresh garlic, salt, and cracked pepper) alongside skewered onions on the grill as the fire was still warming up. I've found that the longer the potatoes stay on the grill, the better they taste. And unless they are positioned over the hottest coals, you generally don't have to worry about them burning. Onions are best when cooked through and slightly caramelized.

I'm not concerned with serving the onions piping hot, so I remove them when they are done and set them aside until suppertime.

Steaks do best on a very hot fire. When you have to stay at least a foot away from the grill to avoid the heat, it's ready. I sprinkle them with cracked pepper, and we're off to the races!

We were six people on this particular evening, so we decided to pair the steaks with some North Atlantic cod that was on special at Central Market. They threw in a cedar grilling plank with the purchase. I'd never used such a plank before, and I was curious about it.

Following instructions printed on the plank, I soaked it in water for about an hour before placing it on the grill. This creates a cedar-flavored steam effect and also prevents the board from instantly bursting into flames.

Not only does fish not require the extreme heat that's best for steak, my 18.5" Weber grill didn't allow me enough space to place the cedar board directly on the grill. My solution was to stack the fish on top, supported by the potato packs - a perfect solution as it turns out.

I put the lid back on the grill. The smoke created from the steaks and indirect heat worked really well for the fish.

Yum yum. Steaks were done at this point - still nice and rare on the inside.

After removing the steaks, I placed the board directly on the grill. The underside instantly burned and turned black. This produced a lot of cedar smoke, which really penetrated the flavor of the fish.

Immediately wrapping the steaks in foil locks in the juicy flavor and allows the meat to relax for maximum tenderness. Ten minutes is usually about right. This also provided enough time for me to finish up the cod on the grill.

When the fish is flaky and brown around the edges, it's ready. A quick peek inside the foil packs reveals that the potatoes are ready as well.

The final product: perfectly rare and incredibly tender.

An impressionistic shot of the evening's dinner table.

What are your secret steak and fish tricks? Leave your comments below.

Barbecue chicken

2010-05-30T11:11:00.012-05:00

Cage-free, all-natural organic chickens were on sale, so I decided to try one on the grill.

After cutting the whole chicken into pieces, I marinated it in Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, fresh pressed garlic, cracked pepper, and coarse sea salt for about 3 hours in the refrigerator.

I concentrated a hot fire in the center of the grill, leaving plenty of room for a cooler perimeter. I placed a foil pack of chopped potatoes seasoned with fresh garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper directly over the hot coals - and chicken parts around the sides.

Within minutes, thick smoke was billowing out of the vent holes. A very good sign.

Since this was my first time grilling chicken, I kept a close eye on things. The fire was very hot, and I wanted to make sure nothing burned. After about 10 minutes, the parts were ready to be turned.

Because I can't easily do a visual check on the foil pack, I rely on my nose. When I begin to smell the aroma of potato and garlic, I know it's almost done and move it to the cooler perimeter with tongs.

A few minutes before the meat was done, I basted Stubb's BBQ sauce (spiked with plenty of Tabasco) onto the chicken parts with my brand new basting brush.

The experts say you shouldn't take any chances with poultry, so I checked the temperature with a thermometer. It should be a least 160ºF when done. I took the chicken off the grill at 165ºF.

The potatoes were also done. The olive oil gives them a crispy and flavorful texture.

The chicken turned out to be quite a treat - the spicy tang of barbecue sauce and a smokey flavor you only get with natural wood charcoal.

Is anyone grilling this weekend? I'd love to hear about your triumphs and tragedies. Use the comment form below.

...and the agony of the meat

2010-05-28T13:19:00.003-05:00

On the underside of my Weber grill, there's a lever for removing ash. Moving it back and forth causes ash to fall onto the aluminum tray below. The lever can also be used to stoke your fire by allowing more air to reach the coals from below. If your fire is beginning to dwindle, you can give it a couple of strokes to give your fire a jolt of heat.

Doing this in darkness however can be dangerous - as I found out.

We had been working in the garden earlier in the day, and the grill got moved a little. Later in the evening while grilling up some burgers, I reached down to move the lever. But it wasn't where I expected it to be. It was already dark, so I fumbled around for it when the inner side of my arm made contact with the grill basin. Ouch and a half - I can tell you...

The thrill of the grill during spring thunderstorms

2010-05-25T19:31:00.008-05:00

I knew it was probably going to rain. The question was when. Would that patch of blue sky open up and give me another 90 minutes of grill time, or would the dark clouds close in and unleash a thunderstorm in all its fury (with my all-natural, grass-fed hamburgers abandoned to their fate on the grill until I could attempt a rescue)?

I made a fateful decision to push ahead despite the odds. I lit the charcoal chimney just as foreboding, oversized raindrops began to pepper me. (You can see raindrops on the lawn chair.)

My window of hope was quickly swallowed up by the clouds. The intensity of the rain began to increase, and I placed the potatoes and fresh Brussels sprouts (seasoned with chopped fresh garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper, wrapped in foil) onto the grill, mostly in hopes of keeping my baby fire from being snuffed out by the rain. I didn't want to put the lid on the grill because I knew that would kill the delicate embers. My only hope was that the sprouts could block enough rain to allow my fragile fire to survive.

Did I mention I had used the last of my charcoal? Well, it's true. And the situation was truly critical. I didn't want to waste a pound and a half of premium beef.

I actually got pretty lucky, as it turns out. The storm just barely clipped us. It rained for about half an hour but never really unloaded like a spring thundershower can. My precious coals were indeed saved by the sprouts and potatoes. In no time I was back in business.

It was still raining (hence the wide-brimmed hat) but conditions were good enough to resume grilling activities. By this time, my coals were burning down. It was now or never.

I'm proud to report, I pulled one out of the hat. The burgers turned out perfect, and the sprouts were charred a little bit - just as I like 'em. We gobbled it all up moments after this photo was taken.

This one could have gone seriously awry - I got very lucky.

Camp grilling and improvising

2010-05-22T15:35:00.029-05:00

It's almost getting too hot for camping already, but we wanted to get one more trip in before the heat really takes hold. We headed west to the Texas Hill Country, where a friend of ours owns land with a natural spring. There was a chance of thunderstorms, but we decided to risk it anyway.

I would love to show you images of the beautiful sirloin that I grilled up. Steak on the grill is pretty straightforward - the better the meat, the better the result. Unfortunately, darkness and hunger set in before I could snap any decent pictures.

In addition to steaks, I did corn-on-the-cob-on-the-grill, some asparagus, and a potato pack. Because I have the Weber Lil Smokey - now known as the Smokey Joe - when camping, I have to cook the meal in shifts. First the veggies, then the steak. I placed the vegetables in the center and the corn (still in husk) around the perimeter.

Corn, asparagus, and potatoes on the grill - plenty of time for some strumming and singing.

Wouldn't it be nice to have a natural spring bubbling up in your back yard? Notice the twisted elm branches - tied down by Indians to mark watering holes.

The next morning we discovered that we'd forgotten the filter cone for coffee. I was able to puncture a hole in the bottom of a can that our vegetarian fellow campers had brought along. It worked pretty well.

There was wild garlic growing all over the place, so I decided to dig some up and take it home. I planted them in the back yard, and they seem to be doing well after a week. Can't wait to have homegrown garlic!

Luckily the thunderstorm missed us, but it cooled things down quite a bit which was great. I assure you the steak was delicious. We'll revisit that juicy topic in a subsequent post.

Our own domain!

2010-05-18T18:55:00.003-05:00

This blog is now available at grilldiaries.com. The site will remain available at grilldiaries.blogspot.com, albeit with limited functionality. Thanks for reading!

Sausages on the grill

2010-05-17T15:05:00.002-05:00

These are called "Bavarian-style sausages" at the supermarket. To me, they look and taste like Thüringer Bratwurst.

One of the easiest meals to prepare on the grill is sausages. There are no fancy moves necessary and only two things to know: be sure not to undercook, and don't burn them.

The critical aspect to grilling sausages is the sausage itself. This is obviously a broad category, encompassing everything from hotdog wieners and Braunschweiger to Irish bangers and breakfast patties. I think the best sausages for the grill are German-style Bratwursts, which are available in numerous flavor variations.

A lot of weird ingredients can get thrown into sausage recipes, so I buy only the all-natural, housemade variety with natural casings. I generally avoid precooked sausages because their ingredients read like a chemistry experiment. Two things definitely to avoid are artificial coloring and modosodium glutamate. I've even seen some that contain saccharine. Yuck!

Natural casings, you ask? Just another euphemism to distract you from what it really is. In fact, natural casings are the intestines of sheep, cows, and pigs, which are then stuffed with ground meat and spices. According to Wikipedia, the practice is documented as early as 589 BC.

Start the charcoal in your chimney about 20 minutes before you want to start cooking. For sausages, I use a smaller fire - i.e., a bit less charcoal - and allow for a cooler ring around the outer edge of the grill. This outer ring can be used to control cooking temperature through placement. If something is cooking up too quickly or beginning to burn, simply move it to the outer edge until everything else catches up.

Dumping the hot coals from the chimney into the grill basin.

Veggies positioned around the cooler, outer edge.

Before placing the uncooked sausages onto the grill, I use a practice I picked up in Germany. I take a sharp-pointed skewer and poke a few holes in each link. I usually poke them a few more times after they're on the grill. You'll see the fat draining out once the sausages get hot.

Poking holes in the sausage casing.

This allows fat to drain off, making the sausages less greasy. The fat dripping onto the hot coals also produces a lot of smoke, which then adds a nice smokey flavor to vegetables or whatever else you have on the grill. Caution here. If the dripping fat is causing large flames to kick up, place the lid on the grill until the flames die down. In this situation, it is also advisable to ensure your weenies are not turning black. If they are, immediately turn them over and move them to the cooler, outer ring of your grill.

Links nearing completion and moved away from the hot center of the fire.

Another trick I've learned now that I have the 18.5" Weber grill is rotating the grill to adjust the heat. My Lil Smokey didn't have them, but the bigger model has grips on the grilling grate that can be used for turning. Don't try this bare-handed.

Rotating the grill counter-clockwise to distribute heat.

In contrast to steak or porkchops, cooking sausages on the grill is a slower and cooler process. A good solution if your grilling event requires you to be the host as well as the cook. I've ruined quite a few steaks because I got distracted talking to someone instead of giving my undivided attention to the grill. Sausages are a little more forgiving.

The finished product.

I like to leave sausages on the grill as long as possible without burning them, usually at least 20 minutes. This allows the maximum amount of fat to burn off and ensures that they are thoroughly cooked. Serve them hotdog-style in buns with your favorite fixings. Or German-style: on a plate with potatoes, sauerkraut, sliced bread, and plenty of hot mustard.

Grilling equipment

2010-05-10T14:51:00.004-05:00

One of the great things about grilling is that is doesn't require a huge investment to achieve outstanding results. The photo above is of my well-used Weber Lil Smokey, which was about $30 new. This is my fourth Lil Smokey. They last about six years with heavy use. I keep this one around for camping trips. Apparently, manufacture of this model has gone offshore, and it's now known as the "Smokey Joe."

No iron deficiency in this household.

I swear by Weber grills. I've used others, but nothing else comes close in terms of practical design, durability, and value. An additional factor for me has been that Weber is traditionally an American-made product. However, I recently purchased a new Weber 18.5" grill, and I noticed the box says "Made in Mexico." After doing a little research, I was only able to establish that some models are now made outside the US, and some are still manufactured in Illinois. I suppose buying NAFTA is the next best thing to buying American.

New 18.5" model in foreground and two-legged precedessor leaning against the organic garden in the background.

Of course, another major consideration when grilling is fuel for your fire. Personally, I use only natural wood charcoal. I don't like propane or petroleum-based briquets. Yes, they are easier to cook with, but the results are not as tasty, and I just don't see the need for fossil fuels when using humanity's oldest cooking technique. Fortunately, it's gotten a lot easier to find real charcoal in recent years. This is a brand I get at the local supermarket, available in oak or mesquite:

Look for "100% natural" and "no additives" on the packaging. I have no idea what the hell "Texas Style" means. It's kind of a ubiquitous local patriotism thing down here in the Lone Star State, I reckon. I can't recall ever seeing "Oklahoma-style" for much of anything except maybe Shawnee cornbread mix. Anyhow, get the good stuff, stay away from anything that says "briquets" on the label.

Another indispensible item is the charcoal chimney pictured to the left. It's an ingenious design that liberates you forever from starter fluid. Simply stuff the bottom chamber full of newspaper, fill the top chamber with charcoal, and place it on the floor of your grill. Use a match to light the newspaper through holes near the bottom and you've got glowing coals in about 20 minutes. Dump them on the grill and add more charcoal if you're planning a big piece of meat like steak or pork chops. Otherwise, the amount of charcoal is sufficient for medium-heat grilling.

And last but not least, a pair of grill tongs is highly recommended. Using traditional kitchen implements when grilling is a sure-fire way to singe the hair right out of your nostrils. Temperatures get very hot, so you need something with a longer reach. These Chicago Cutlery tongs have been great.

What does your equipment setup look like?

Fajitas on the grill

2010-05-07T11:59:00.006-05:00

They had marinated fajita meat on sale at Central Market. It comes in a single slab, so I sliced it into strips. This was my first time doing fajitas, and I opted for a hot fire. I think it was the right choice. You get a nice crispy exterior without losing all the juices. But beware, working with a hot fire can be deceiving - things can burn up in a hurry. Read more...

A favorite side of mine when grilling is veggies on a skewer - in this case yellow squash, red onion, green pepper, and pineapple. I marinate the skewers with olive oil, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce. The best way to cook them is hot and fast. Leave them on too long, and they get a little soggy.

The next pictures are not so good, but you get an idea of the finished product. Mmm, everything was very yummy.

Fajita meat right off the grill.

Veggies right off the grill.

Fajitas in locally made corn tortillas with grilled veggies and homemade guacamole. Leftovers made for a quick and delicious lunch the next day.

Catfish on the grill

2010-05-06T17:23:00.004-05:00

Fish is definitely a challenge on the grill. Salmon or tuna steaks are probably the easiest. It's similar to grilling a piece of meat. You just have to pay a closer attention to the heat level. A medium-hot fire is sufficient.

White fish like cod or haddock is almost impossible to do without foil. I prefer to cook over a flame, so the foil option is less attractive to me.

Until last week, I'd never tried to grill catfish. The first attempt turned out pretty good I think. Catfish is actually pretty tough. It doesn't come apart nearly as easily as most white fish. It also has a good amount of fat, which is nice because it lends a smokey flavor to everything as it drips onto the coals. Read more...

The fish was seasoned with salt, pepper, olive oil, and fresh lemon juice, and then placed onto the grill over medium-hot coals. As sides, we wrapped up brussels sprouts and diced potatoes in foil. Both packs were seasoned with salt, pepper, olive oil, and fresh chopped garlic.

Fish usually cooks pretty fast on the grill. I was surprised at the staying power of the catfish. I left it on for nearly 20 minutes before all the fat was burned off. I was concerned about burning it, so I kept prying underneath with the spatula to check it. This was a mistake. Cat is tough but not nearly as robust as beef or pork. The fish began to flake apart somewhat as I messed with it. I also violated the cardinal rule of grilling fish: one turn only. If you try to turn it more than once, you'll be lucky to keep it intact.

Despite my flubs, all the eaters that evening were pleasantly surprised at how flavorful the cat was. The texture was also flaky and not too dry.

Sprouts and potatoes.

Next time I'll try to flip the fish only once and maybe brown those potatoes a little more, but all-in-all it was a moderate success.

Ciao for now... michael