As an unwritten rule, porteños tend to arrive at a bar, pub, or lounge around 10 p.m. and stay well into the early hours or until someone suggests moving on to a nightclub. Daytime drinking hasn’t quite caught on yet, although after-work drinking has, and many venues offer happy-hour drinks between 6 p.m. and midnight, depending on the generosity of the owner.

Great Bars to Meet Locals

A Palermo Hollywood classic is the ever-busy Sonoman (Fitzroy 1655, Palermo Hollywood). Ignore the bar at the front and head straight for the breezy garden. The well-priced drinks, decent cocktail menu, good music and sociable crowd make for memorable, long summer nights. If you casually raise your voice in your native tongue you may just attract some interest. Just around the corner is Ferona Social Club (Humboldt 1445, Palermo Hollywood), which takes on more of an underground house party philosophy. Ring the bell and wait to be let in, then join the crowds in the dimly lit living room or head to the rooftop terrace. It can get busy on weekends, so try to arrive before 2 a.m.

While the rest of Palermo Chico is lacking in nightlife, MULA (Cerviño 3178, Palermo Chico) takes center stage. Set up in lounge-club style, it’s a great place to sip cocktails and mix with a well-heeled and stylish crowd – you won’t find pub crawlers and foreign exchange students here. The music is a mix of live bands and local DJs, and on select evenings there are art exhibitions. The club is open from Wednesday to Saturday.

Tucked behind a concealed door and staircase on Avenida Córdoba is El Especial (Córdoba 4391, Palermo Viejo). The drinks are cheap, the vibe is unassuming and the only foreigners you’ll find here are the ones who are really in the know. Split your time between the stage area, where local rock bands perform, and the bar, where you can relive your youth by playing the likes of Pac-Man and Space Invaders. A short walk from here is Club Cultural Matienzo (ccmatienzo.com.ar, Pringles 1249, Villa Crespo), another easy-going spot that attracts a local, artsy crowd. It’s a big venue, spread over three floors with three bars, an events salon and terrace. As a cultural center, it has a busy agenda of events, from poetry recitals and concerts to movie nights and VJ parties.

Great Bars for Live Music

Argentines love their music, something evident in their ability to snap up every possible ticket for seemingly every possible concert. Buenos Aires also has some great places to listen to and discover great national bands. Two good spots are in San Telmo, Plasma (sitioplasma.com.ar, Piedras 1856, San Telmo) and Kirie Music Club (facebook.com/kirieclub, Bolívar 813, San Telmo). Plasma is a two-story bohemian cultural center that showcases local rock, pop and electropop. After the bands finish, VJs and vinyl DJs turn the venue into an informal nightclub. Kirie is a music venue, Mediterranean restaurant and whiskey bar. Music ranges from tribute acts and alternative rock to folk and new wave. Check their respective websites for a schedule of events, the majority of which are free.

If you’re in Almagro, visit Imaginario Cultural (Guardia Vieja 3799, Almagro). Upstairs is a firm favorite with big groups of friends; it’s open late, and it serves good cocktails, liter bottles of Quilmes and a menu of pizzas and burgers. The basement almost always hosts live music, and you’ll see the event host moving between the bar’s tables to promote his or her band. For a solid night of rock, you can’t beat Salón Pueyrredón (salonpueyrredon.com.ar, Santa Fe 4560, Palermo), located a few blocks from Palermo train station. It’s busy, boisterous and attracts a clientele that loves to bounce around. Another popular spot with rock ‘n’ roll lovers is The Roxy Live! (theroxybar.com.ar, Niceto Vega 5542, Palermo Hollywood). The main room is for live bands, usually rock or reggae and often Stones, Ramones and Zeppelin covers. In the side room, DJs spin a mix of dance, glam rock, funk and soul.

If you like jazz, there are two spots worth checking out in the Palermo Viejo area. One is the cool, dimly lit Thelonious Club (thelonious.com.ar, Salguero 1884, Palermo Viejo). Inside is a long bar, tables set against tall windows and leather sofas in front of the stage. Both local and international bands play here. The other venue is Virasoro Bar (virasorobar.com.ar, Guatemala 4328, Palermo Viejo), an intimate and welcoming bar that was once a revered meeting place of local jazz musicians. From Wednesday to Saturday, it hosts Argentine soloists and bands.

Great Bars for Music Fans

At Liverpool Bar (facebook.com/LIVERPOOLBARPALERMO, Arévalo 1376, Palermo Hollywood) there’s a huge appreciation for British music. So much so that the bar puts on regular Beatles, Oasis, Madchester and Brit Pop parties. Other nights are dedicated to glam rock, ’80s pop, ’60s and ’70s rock and even a sprinkling of Argentine music. Expect a hip crowd, t-shirts adorned with band names, skinny jeans and music-idol lookalikes. Over in San Telmo, DeBar (facebook.com/debar.buenosaires, Defensa 502, San Telmo) puts on similar events to Liverpool Bar. Enjoy nights dedicated to The Doors and Pink Floyd, Foo Fighters and Pearl Jam, The Police and Genesis and the ubiquitous Stones and Beatles. VJs spin the tunes and play videos on a huge screen for all to see.

Another notable spot is You Know My Name (youknowmyname.com.ar, Marcelo T de Alvear 1540, Recoleta). Formerly known as El Living, this lounge and restaurant-cum-nightclub is a must for any music guru. From Thursday to Saturday, two VJs battle for music-video supremacy by playing everything from Depeche Mode and Human League to The Smiths and Oasis. The party starts around 1 a.m., with lines likely, although you can arrive early for dinner and guarantee yourself a prime spot. Back in Palermo, Makena Cantina Club (Fitz Roy 1519, Palermo Hollywood) is the place to be for soul and funk. It’s open Tuesday through Sunday, and most nights start with a live band and continue into the early hours with DJs.

Great Bars for Beer-Drinkers

While Argentina is recognized the world over for its wine, Argentines themselves are progressively developing a taste for beer, and not ice-cold bottles of Quilmes and Brahma. More and more microbreweries are opening, with many providing their brews to the city’s pubs. One of the longest-running microbreweries is Antares, which originated in Mar del Plata in the late ’90s. Today Antares has bars in Palermo, Las Cañitas, San Telmo and various other cities across the country. The B.A. bars are all welcoming and similar in design (Antares is now a franchise). The beer menu includes honey beer, IPA, scotch and stout, among others. Arrive when the doors open to enjoy a genuine two-for-one happy hour. New on the beer scene is NOLA Gastro Pub (nolabuenosaires.com, Gorriti 4389, Palermo Viejo). It’s run by the stalwart closed-door chef Liza Puglia. On the menu are local craft beers, artisanal wines and superb Cajun cuisine.

The next three pubs are all under the same ownership and take on the style of a British pub. In San Telmo is Gibraltar (thegibraltarbar.com, Peru 895, San Telmo). The cozy atmosphere and sit-at bar attract homesick expats and backpackers, notably those who go to enjoy pints of Antares and Gambrinus beer. The food menu is good, too, and includes a mix of British pub grub, curries and burgers. Gibraltar is one of the few pubs that opens early, making it popular with daytime drinkers and Premier League football fans. Expect to line up on weekends after 10 p.m. Bangalore (thebangalorebar.com, Humboldt 1416, Palermo Hollywood) is hard to beat for straight-up beer drinking. This small pub packs in a good mix of locals, expats and tourists every night of the week. On offer are a good selection of beers and cider (again, Antares and Gambrinus), tempting jugs of gin and tonic, and a menu of curries and Indian tapas. Pop upstairs to the restaurant area for a quieter dining experience. The third in this collection is the Shanghai Dragon (facebook.com/Theshanghaidragon, Aráoz 1199, Palermo Viejo). This Chinese-inspired bar and restaurant is adorned with red carpet and dark-wood furnishings that lend it the warmth of a British pub. The beer is excellent, too. Enjoy a pint of IPA, golden ale or stout, and complement your selection with affordable plates of spring rolls, dumplings and rice and dim sum.

For a quieter venue and great beer in San Telmo, try Breoghan Brew Bar (Bolívar 860, San Telmo). The beers, ranging from lagers to ales to stouts, are top quality and brewed onsite. The bar also has around 50 national and imported beers by the bottle. Soak up the beer with a homemade burger, a plate of papas bravas or fish and chips. Best of all, the bar rarely gets overcrowded. Few people make it to Boedo but if you do, check out Cossab (pubcossab.com.ar, Carlos Calvo 4199, Boedo). Dim lighting, wooden furniture, exposed-brick walls and a sit-down bar make it a welcome addition to B.A.’s watering holes. Sip pints of stout, scotch, honey beer and IPA. Soak up the beer with hearty sandwiches, beer-marinated pork chops, picadas and other pub grub.

Still thirsty? There are a couple of other options. A few blocks from Plaza Serrano is Bodega Cervecera (bodegacervecera.com.ar, Thames 1759, Palermo Soho), a bar-cum-bottle-shop that has a huge selection of uncommon national and imported beers. It’s a good place to try Patagonian beers, such as Beagle and Berliner. Finally, amid the sleepy streets of Colegiales is the Buena Birra Social Club (buenabirrasocialclub.com, Zapiola 1353, Colegiales). Once a closed-door restaurant, this converted house now functions as a bar and serves six varieties of artisanal beer.

The post Best Bars in Buenos Aires: The Ultimate Guide first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

As you browse the supermarket shelves and restaurant menus, you’ll notice that Argentine wines have an excellent price-to-quality ratio: You can pick up a decent bottle from the supermarket for the bargain price of AR$30 to AR$40. If you move on to the AR$50 to AR$70 price range, you’ll be sampling something that verges on the outstanding. It’s rare that you’d need to spend AR$100-plus on a good bottle, but if you feel like splurging then you’ll reap the rewards. But why and how is this possible, and when did it all start? Like local cuisine, wine in Argentina has close ties with the Spanish colonial years. During the mid-1500s, grapevines were brought to and planted in Santiago del Estero, a province in the north-central region of Argentina. The culture of winemaking soon spread to neighboring provinces, most notably those set on the western edge of the country, and in the valley of the Andes Mountains. A combination of geography (high altitude) and climate (low humidity) has created near-perfect winemaking conditions. The nation’s vineyards seldom suffer from the grape diseases that affect other major winemaking countries, allowing for mass cultivation and production.

The Grapes

Argentine wine is almost always associated with the Malbec grape. It’s the flagship and quintessential grape of the nation, the one used to produce the red wines that have put Argentina on the world’s wine map. Brought to Argentina by the French, the Malbec produces a full-bodied wine characterized by cherry and blueberry flavors. It’s a superb accompaniment to that other great facet of Argentine food and drink, the steak. The other grape that is strongly associated with Argentina is Torrontés. This is the nation’s emblematic white-wine variety, characterized by fresh, aromatic and floral flavors and a slightly acidic and smooth texture. While Malbec is the most well-known, Torrontés is unique in that it’s currently grown only on Argentine soil.

Just as there’s much more to this country than Buenos Aires, there’s much more to its wine culture than Malbec and Torrontés. There’s an overriding emphasis on red wines, and Bonarda is the second-most-grown red grape. For many years, this grape was solely used to produce cheap table wine, but today it’s witnessing a renaissance. The grape produces wines with notes of dark-red fruit (strawberries and cherries) and smoky features. A grape grown here – and all over the world – is Cabernet Sauvignon, which produces bold and assertive red wines. This varietal grows well from Patagonia all the way up to Salta. Other red-grape varieties to look out for include Syrah, Merlot, Tempranillo, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Tannat, which is the flagship wine of Uruguay. Of these, Merlot is frequently blended with Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot grapes yield softer and fresher characteristics, similar to Bordeaux wines.

Because the hot, dry climate of Argentina’s traditional wine-producing regions is more favorable to growing red grapes, more than 50 percent of the country’s vineyards are dedicated to these varietals. The rest are split between white and rosé grapes, including Chardonnay, Chenin, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Viognier. As winemakers move farther south, however, a boom in the production of white wines is becoming more likely.

Wine Regions & Wineries

Argentina’s main wine regions sit in the foothills of the Andes. The most important of them all is Mendoza, a province that is responsible for around 80 percent of the country’s wine production. It’s the go-to place for wine tourism, and the arid, sunny and almost rain-free climate makes it the ideal place for growing Malbec grapes. Within the province are four distinct regions: Eastern Mendoza, Luján de Cuyo, Uco Valley and Maipú. In March, the provincial capital, Mendoza, hosts Argentina’s biggest wine festival, Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia. Unsurprisingly, there are abundant wineries to choose from in this province, such as Bodega Dolium (Luján de Cuyo), Luigi Bosca (Luyán de Cuyo), Finca Flichman (Maipú) and Bodega Navarro Correas (Mendoza). All offer tours of picturesque vineyards in addition to tastings of varying descriptions. An alternative way to visit the wineries is with Bikes and Wines in Maipú, which arranges tours to boutique, family and mass-market bodegas.

Second to Mendoza in terms of production is San Juan, a province situated immediately north of Mendoza. The climate in this region is markedly hotter than in Mendoza, making it ideal for growing Bonarda and Syrah grapes in addition to those used for the production of brandy, sherry and vermouth. Wine production in San Juan is concentrated in the departments of Calingasta, Ullum, Zonda and Tulum Valley. Bodegas to check out include Bodegas La Guarda (San Juan) and Viñas de Segisa (La Rinconada). North of San Juan is the province of La Rioja, a region known for growing Torrontés and Muscat of Alexandria, a white grape used to make sweet Muscat wines. Although La Rioja is one of Argentina’s oldest wine-producing regions, its severe lack of water has hampered development of the industry. If you’re in the area, stop by Bodegas La Riojana (Chilecito).

In Northwest Argentina, the provinces of Catamarca, Jujuy and Salta have earned recent fame in international winemaking. The wineries here are some of the highest in the world – many planted at 4,900 feet (1,500 meters) above sea level or higher – and are famous for producing intense white wines and heavily fruited Tannats and Cabernet Sauvignons. Perhaps the best place to visit is the scenic town of Cafayate, 117 miles (189 kilometers) south of Salta city. Here you’ll find Argentina’s best Torrontés and a plethora of closely grouped bodegas, including Bodega El Esteco, Bodegas Etchart and Vasija Secreta.

If you like to explore up-and-coming areas of wine tourism, make your way to the south of Argentina and the Patagonia regions of Río Negro and Neuquén. The cooler climate makes for good conditions in growing grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sémillon and Torrontés. The region is also perfect for growing grapes used in the production of sparkling wine, and a number of bodegas here offer tours and tastings. Bodega Humberto Canale (General Roca, Río Negro), Bodega Agrestis (General Roca, Río Negro) and Bodega Familia Schroeder (San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén) are but a few examples.

Great Wine Bars in Buenos Aires

True to its drinking and nightlife culture, Palermo is home to a number of wine bars. In Palermo Soho, two blocks from Plaza Serrano, is Pain et Vin (Gorriti 5132, Palermo Soho). The project of an Argentine sommelier and her Israeli-chef husband, it’s a relaxed and welcoming place that eludes any wine snobbery. A sign saying “There’s Always Time for a Glass of Wine” greets you as you enter, followed by a large shelf of handpicked wines. Accompanying the wines is a commendable selection of home-baked breads and delicious cheeses, making it the perfect stop for a pre-dinner drink and snack. The menu is short, consisting of a handful of sandwiches, salads and desserts, and the wines are available to take away. Keep an eye on Pain et Vin’s Facebook page for wine tasting events.

In one of the quieter spots of Palermo Hollywood is Bar du Marché (bardumarchepalermo.com, Nicaragua 5946, Palermo Hollywood). This is as Parisian as you’ll find in Buenos Aires and, with more than 50 wines to choose from, you’ll be coming back time and again. The wines are available by the glass and by the bottle. Moreover, the bar specializes in both local and New World wines, some from as far away as Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. Bar du Marché also has a closed-door Japanese restaurant on the upper floor, just in case you’re craving a five-course sushi dinner. A new arrival on the scene is Trova: Bar de Vinos (facebook.com/TrovaBar, Honduras 5903, Palermo Hollywood), offering more than 25 local wines by the glass plus a great selection of charcuterie, cheese and tapas. Tastings take place on Tuesday and Thursday, at 3 p.m. and 7 p.m., while the first Wednesday of the month is Ladies Night. The bar opened at the end of May 2014, so it’s still building its reputation and clientele.

Away from Palermo, Villa Crespo is home to one of the city’s best wine bars, La Cava de Jufré (lacavajufre.com.ar, Jufré 201, Villa Crespo). Once the Café de los Músicos, La Cava de Jufré now strives to offer a place to enjoy great wine accompanied by regularly scheduled art expositions and live music. It’s a welcoming spot, complete with large windows, a sit-down bar, exposed-brick walls and outdoor seating. Ask to visit the cellar, which is stocked with hundreds of bottles of wine. Closer to Buenos Aires’ city center, in Monserrat, is the superb Aldo’s Vinoteca & Restorán (facebook.com/AldosVinoteca, Moreno 364, Monserrat). Wine is king here, with almost 600 labels. In every direction, there are bottles of wine gracing the shelves. If you try one you like, you can buy a bottle or a case to take home. In addition to a daily happy hour (5 p.m. to 9 p.m.), Aldo’s has plenty of events and specials throughout the week. These include a five-course, five-wine tasting menu on Thursday, and a Saturday brunch. In the basement, there’s an intimate jazz bar, BeBop Club, which showcases the best in local jazz and blues.

Great Wine Tastings in Buenos Aires

In a city with innumerable vinotecas (wine shops), it’s a wonder so few of them offer single tastings or events. One that does fit the bill, however, is Lo de Joaquín Alberdi (lodejoaquinalberdi.com, Jorge Luis Borges 1772, Palermo Soho), situated in the heart of Palermo Soho. Every Thursday and Friday there’s a wine-tasting evening, and each event is sponsored by a different winery. Check before booking to find out if the event will be in English, Spanish or both. During the rest of the week, feel free to drop by the shop to check out the themed rooms, which range from Trapiche and Chandon to lesser-known brands.

Another great way to sample Argentine wines is with Anuva Wines (anuvawines.com, Palermo Soho). It’s designed specifically for non-Spanish-speaking tourists and takes place in a loft in Palermo Soho, the location of which is only disclosed after you’ve made a reservation. A tasting at Anuva includes generous samples of five exclusive local wines (that aren’t available in the U.S.A.) accompanied by five Argentine tapas plates. Tastings take place from Monday to Thursday (3 p.m. and 6 p.m.) and on Friday and Saturday (2 p.m. and 5 p.m.). The current price (July 2014) is US$52 per person. If you wish to buy a particular wine in bulk, Anuva can help you ship it back to the U.K. or U.S.

The post Wine in Buenos Aires, Argentina: The Ultimate Guide first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

Cucina Paradiso (cucinaparadisodeli.com, Castañeda 1873, Belgrano/Arévalo 1538, Palermo Hollywood). This cafe-bistro-shop is the brainchild of celebrity chef Donato de Santis (you’ll find him dominating the airtime of the Gourmet channel). The vibe is laid-back and Donato is often present, making fresh pasta and filling ravioli at the bar. The menu is small, with about half a dozen each of pasta dishes, antipasti and panini, but made fresh. There’s always a day’s special plus a tempting selection of sweets and pastries. If you’re in B.A. long-term, you may want to sign up for a workshop hosted by Donato.

Fornería Cantina Bar (forneria.com.ar, Malabia 1825, Palermo Soho). From milanesa to panini, pasta to risotto, pizza to cheese boards, this quaint Soho cantina covers all Italian flavors. You’ll find a great selection of desserts, too, plus Italian liquors to finish off your meal. It’s notably popular on weekends for its three-course brunch with your choice of champagne or cocktail. The easy-going, chatty environment makes it a good place to go with a group of friends.

Guido Restaurant (guidorestaurant.com.ar, Cerviño 3943, Palermo Botanico). Sitting quietly on the elegant Cerviño Boulevard, Guido is a great option for honest, healthy Italian cuisine. The menu is packed with pastas and pizzas, all coming with creative sauces and innovative toppings. Meanwhile, the bar is stocked with imported wines, premium beers and the ubiquitous Campari- and Cinzano-based drinks. The checkered tablecloths and photos of popular Italian icons aid in pulling the ambience together. Stop by around 7.30 p.m. for the tapas happy hour.

La Parolaccia (laparolaccia.com, Various locations). This chain of Italian restaurants serves up excellent Italian fare amid classic Italian décor. The lunch menu is one of the restaurant’s best options and includes an antipasti, main and dessert, plus a glass of wine or champagne. Tell the waiter it’s your birthday to receive a complimentary cake and a round of limoncello for your table.

II Ballo del Mattone (facebook.com/ballodelmattone, Gorriti 5737, Palermo Hollywood).  A hardworking kitchen whips up the kind of pasta dishes you’d expect from a Sicilian grandmother. Check out the chalkboard menus for the day’s specials, which could be anything from conchiglioni to fusilli a la scarparo. The restaurant also hosts art exhibitions and the occasional movie screening.

Altura Crucero (facebook.com/AlturaCrucero, Carranza 1601, Palermo Hollywood).  Altura Crucero is a traditional trattoria with tightly grouped tables, boundless bottles of wine and live accordion players. The outdoor seating area is great on a warm day.

Trattoria Olivetti (facebook.com/TrattoriaOlivetti, Cerviño 3800, Palermo Botaníco).  Trattoria Olivetti is one of several recommendable Italian restaurants in the Palermo Botaníco area. The menu changes according to the season and is often prix-fixe. The rooftop terrace – shaded in summer and heated in winter – is perfect all year-round.

La Locando (facebook.com/lalocandaristoranteitaliano, José León Pagano 2697, Recoleta). Hidden away behind the Automóvil Club Argentino, La Locando is  a cozy Italian restaurant that specializes in Sardinian food. On the menu you’ll find plenty of homemade pastas, seafood and risottos.

La Cantina Pierino (lacantinadepierino.com.ar, Lavalle 3499, Almagro). A historic spot in Almagro, La Cantina Pierino is over 100 years old. Stop in for their homemade fusilli and ravioli, and reputedly the world’s best tiramisu.

U Comodo Vostro (Jorge Newberry 3540, Chacarita). On the menu are tempting dishes such as mushroom bruschetta with brie, and homemade ravioli with ragù sauce. Set lunch menus are a good option and include a main, dessert and drink.

The post The Best Italian Restaurants in Buenos Aires first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

Dadá Bistro (San Martín 941, Microcentro). Dadá is one of those great places you stumble upon when looking for something else, then end up returning to again and again. The menu is short but tempting, with excellent variations on bife de lomo and ojo de bife. Decked out in funky poster art and featuring a small sit-down bar, it’s a great place to converse with talented barmen while sampling bistro-style cuisine and new cocktail creations. Arrive early to find a seat, as it’s always busy – which isn’t a bad thing.

Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán (facebook.com/AldosVinoteca, Moreno 372, Monserrat). Wine is the star here, and all 600 bottles were painstakingly chosen by renowned sommelier Aldo Graziani. The menu offers gourmet takes on Argentine classics: steak, milanesa and homemade pasta. The starters are particularly impressive, from the lamb tartare and the oysters to the charcuterie and the goat cheese with figs. Downstairs, an intimate jazz-and-blues bar showcases local and international acts. Check the website for events.

El Baqueano (facebook.com/elbaqueanorestaurante, Chile 495, San Telmo). Think meat but not your standard Argentine beef. Instead, you’ll find rarities here such as alligator, chinchilla, llama and rhea (an ostrich-like flightless bird). The setting is laid-back, and you can sit at the bar or at one of a half-dozen tables. On offer are à la carte sharing dishes and a superb seven-course tasting menu. Come prepared to partake in a gourmet safari!

I Central Market (icentralmarket.com.ar, Boulevard Macacha Güemes, Puerto Madero). You’d be forgiven for being confused when entering this spot overlooking Dock 3 of Puerto Madero. It’s a fusion of restaurant and cafe, deli and bakery, cheese store, wine bar and florist. Whether for an organic breakfast or a cheeky afternoon cake, a three-course dinner, takeout smoothie or homemade soup, you’ll find what you’re looking for at I Central Market. Grab a seat outside and enjoy views of the Puente de la Mujer (Women’s Bridge), an icon of Puerto Madero.

El Mercado (Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero). Designed by Philip Starck and fit for a palace, this restaurant at the Faena Hotel offers stylish Argentine cuisine. Glimpse inside the open kitchen while you await an exquisite rib-eye or tenderloin steak. Alternatively, sit in the courtyard around the open fire.

Crizia Restaurant Grill Bar (crizia.com.ar, Gorriti 5143, Palermo Soho). The high ceilings and contemporary décor give this Soho spot a New York vibe, while the mood lighting is perfect for a romantic date. The menu flirts with traditional Argentine cuisine fused with Asian, Mediterranean and Peruvian flavors. The oyster bar is revered as the best in the city. After dinner, sit back and sip a cognac, grappa or single malt and admire the local art or listen to the smooth sounds of the resident DJ.

Paraje Arévalo (parajearevalo.com, Arévalo 1502, Palermo Hollywood). This small bistro-restaurant on a picturesque Hollywood corner turns out mouthwatering prix-fixe menus featuring variations on your favorite, or often overlooked, Argentine ingredients. The menu changes monthly but you can expect delights such as kadaif de mollejas (sweetbread wrapped in noodles) and sirloin steak cooked in pepper and coriander. The menu often includes fish and seafood, making it great for a break from meat and more meat.

Las Pizarras Bistro (laspizarrasbistro.com, Thames 2296, Palermo Soho). Billed as “market cuisine,” the delicately presented dishes at Las Pizarras are made with fresh and simple ingredients. Check out the blackboards for the regularly changing and eclectic menus, which skew toward French-Argentine cuisine. The chef prides himself on using whatever he’s found at the market that day. There’s an equally eclectic wine list to keep discerning palates satisfied.

Tegui (tegui.com.ar, Costa Rica 5852, Palermo Hollywood): Tegui is a pioneer of B.A.’s closed-door restaurant scene (although now it’s open to all), and behind its unassuming entrance is a culinary journey like no other in the city. There’s an ever-changing menu, but you can expect to be tucking into a seven-course feast of the highest gourmet order. The wine pairings are innovative and painstakingly selected, and there’s an open kitchen that allows diners to peer inside and watch the chefs at work.

Sucre Restaurant Bar Grill (sucrerestaurant.com.ar, Sucre 676, Belgrano). Local chef Fernando Trocca opened this restaurant in 2002 with the vision of combining his love for native cuisine with Japanese, Italian, Peruvian and Spanish influences. Trocca uses lesser-known cuts of meat in a bid to offer affordable dishes, and he prides himself on using fresh, seasonal products. The Patagonian lamb and osso buco risotto are certainly worth trying. Check out the bodega, which stores around 5,000 bottles of wine from some 400 labels.

Astor (astorbistro.com, Ciudad de la Paz 353, Colegiales). A small, modest location with a wide-open kitchen lures diners at Astor. The menu features light and simple bistro-style cuisine made with seasonal ingredients. The more demanding palate may crave more flavor/spice, but what’s on offer is worth trying. The tasty breads come served in a brown paper bag as if just bought from a bakery.

Aramburu (arambururesto.com.ar, Salta 1050, Constitución). This is a restaurant you certainly wouldn’t expect to stumble upon walking the streets of Constitución, and unless you have the address you definitely won’t find it. Tucked away behind an unassuming graffiti covered door, Aramburu presents a romantic eight table restaurant where diners are spoilt with a 10-course tasting menu accompanied by generous wine pairings. Make a reservation and arrive and depart by taxi.

The post Modern Argentine Food in Buenos Aires first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

At the top of most people’s shopping lists when they come to Argentina is leather. And for good reason. As one the world’s biggest producers of meat, Argentina has also got its fair share of top-notch leather and Buenos Aires is a leather shopping mecca. But with an overwhelming number of leather shops at your fingertips, it’s hard to know where to go to get the best hide for your money. Here’s my top ten tips for buying leather in Buenos Aires.

1. Quality Control

A lot of Argentina’s best leather is unfortunately exported overseas so you do need to exercise a bit of quality control and be selective when shopping for leather in Buenos Aires to ensure you’re getting first-grade leather for your buck.  Check the stitching and seams on all of your leather goods: if they are a different color than the actual item then the leather might only be surface-dyed and the color may fade pretty quickly. If the leather feels very stiff and rough then it’s likely been treated and coated to hide the imperfections. While all leather contains natural marks, there shouldn’t be any large blemishes on first-grade leather and it should feel soft and smooth to the touch. Leather should also smell like leather so if you can detect a hint of chemicals, put that leather item back where you found it and keep on shopping.

2. Leather on a budget 

A lot of Buenos Aires travel guides will recommend Murillo street as the place to go for leather shopping. While the street is lined with outlet stores selling a colourful  array of leather jackets, bags, shoes, belts and other leather accessories, some of the styles and designs are a little outdated and the quality of leather varies greatly. Hunt around and you can find some good deals but this isn’t the place for on-trend leather goods or that much-sought-after buttery soft leather.

3. The perfect leather jacket

A leather jacket has become a timeless wardrobe staple for its versatility and ability to carry you through all four seasons and so it’s an item worth investing in. Your best bet would be to go down the made-to-measure road and get a tailored leather jacket (or indeed any other leather garment) from one of the city’s talented leather tailors such as Bettina Rizzi who will measure you up and turn around a leather garment that fits like a glove in the style of your choice within 24 to 36 hours. You’ll find prices on a par with or even cheaper than an off-the-rack jacket from one of the leather boutiques around Recoleta or Palermo.  Otherwise, Rossi & Caruso has a good selection of classic leather jackets for men and women while Doma and House of Matching Colours offer more edgy styles, the latter’s fringed biker jackets are currently highly coveted by the city’s fashionsitas.

4. Know your leathers 

When shopping for leather jackets, it’s important to know your leathers. Calf skin is the most common and economical leather. It’s durable and works best for structured, casual jackets. One up from that is baby calf which is slightly more lightweight and softer to the touch. Smarter, more expensive jackets are usually made from lambskin, which is softer still and more lightweight and supple. It’s finely grained in appearance and moulds well so it will fit, flow and drape in all the right places. Then comes goatskin, which is generally the most expensive, thinnest and softest of the skins.

5. Carpincho: the Gaucho’s leather

Argentina also boasts a very special kind of leather which has a more rustic, traditional appeal. It’s known as carpincho leather and it’s the leather of choice for the gauchos. This signature Argentine leather doesn’t actually come from a cow but the world’s largest rodent, the capybara, that resembles a giant mouse and is native to Argentina. The skin resembles a soft-grained, brown speckled suede and often features natural markings and scars from fights between capybaras.

6. Handbag heaven behind closed doors 

Much like the closed-door dining scene, Buenos Aires also has a popular closed-door shopping scene and it’s currently the in thing for smaller brands and up and coming designers to sell their collections out of private studio spaces or their apartments rather than shop spaces. Appointments are often required to visit these showrooms so check ahead of time. B:Lit Bags tucked away in an apartment building in Palermo Soho has a solid collection of affordable handbags in all shapes, colors and styles.

7. A one-stop leather shop

Prune is Argentina’s biggest-name leather goods brand and it’s the choice arm candy for many an Argentine woman, offering a wide selection of fashionable handbags, wallets, shoes, jackets and other leather accessories in the colours of the season. You’ll find a Prune store in pretty much every mall around the city. Just beware that Prune also offers a synthetic leather line so don’t make the mistake of picking up a bag from the wrong section (the price tag should be a giveaway of what’s real and what’s not). If you don’t care about purchasing items from seasons past, pay a visit to the Prune outlet in Villa Crespo’s outlet district where you’ll find some great deals.

8. Shoes made for walking

After wandering the streets of BA for a few hours, you’ll quickly notice that the trend in womens’ footwear is for large, clumpy platform shoes. If that floats your boat, you shouldn’t have too much trouble shoe shopping as a woman. For men, the choice is wide-ranging. The focus is always on handmade leather shoes but beware as the handmade prefix doesn’t always mean good quality. There are also a number of workshops and showrooms offering bespoke leather boots and shoes, including the must-have customizable polo and riding boots at La Casa de Las Botas.

9. Cowhide for the home 

Cowhide rugs are another leather must-have in Buenos Aires if you have room in your suitcase. Try the Feria de San Telmo on Sundays or Calma Chicha. The latter will vacuum pack your rug for easier packing and transport.

10. Tax Free Shopping

If you’re shopping for leather in the boutiques and malls, look out for the Global Blue Tax Free sticker in the window as that allows you to claim your 14% tax back on your leather goods purchases.

[x_prompt type=”center” title=”Want More Buenos Aires Insider Shopping Secrets?” message=”Personal shopper and Shop Hop BA founder Sophie Lloyd worked in Shanghai for five years as a fashion writer, editor and costume stylist before moving to Argentina in 2010. She set up and established Shop Hop BA later that year, striving to deliver a relaxed customised shopping experience in Buenos Aires and provide insight into the local shopping culture, Argentine designers and artisans.

Sophie extensively researches shops and vendors to find the best quality products, services and shops in Buenos Aires.

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The post Top Ten Tips for Shopping for Leather in Buenos Aires first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

So what about the boliches (nightclubs)? First of all, don’t even think about arriving at your chosen venue before 2 a.m.; this is when most clubs are opening their doors. Any time prior to this is reserved for hitting a bar or la previa, which is pre-game drinking at your or a friend’s house. Once open, the boliches amuse and entertain their clientele well into the early hours, often as late (or early) as 7 a.m. You’ll find all styles of nightclub too, from electronic and dance clubs to rock clubs and celebrity hangouts. As a general rule, although exceptions do exist, clubs in Buenos Aires throw all pretension out the window and focus on good old-fashioned fun. Porteños aren’t huge boozers, either, so you’ll rarely see the stumbling, mumbling drunks often seen in Northern European and American clubs. This, among other theories, explains their ability to keep the party going until the early morning.

Whether you do it once or every weekend, partaking in a night of dancing until sunrise is a must-do in Buenos Aires. To help you on your way we’ve handpicked a selection of the city’s best nightclub experiences. (Note that our choices aren’t just confined to the weekends.) Be brave and attempt the ultimate challenge: Hit a club on a Tuesday night and make it to your 9 a.m. walking tour on Wednesday morning.

Great Boliches in Buenos Aires

House/electronic music is huge in Buenos Aires and big-name international DJs are constantly landing on Argentine shores to entertain adoring fans with hours-long sets. One of the most popular nightclubs on the scene is Pacha (pachabuenosaires.com, corner of Rafael Obligado and La Pampa, Costanera Norte), which faces the river on the Costanera Norte. It’s from the same brand as the world-famous clubs in Ibiza, London and New York. There’s a huge dance floor, several bars and the latest in sound and lighting technology, while the open-air terrace is the place to be to watch the sunrise. Pacha opens on Friday, Saturday and public holidays and welcomes DJs such as John Digweed, Nick Warren and Fatboy Slim. Another favorite for well-known DJs is Alsina (palacioalsina.net, Alsina 940, Monserrat), just a short walk from Plaza de Mayo. It’s the host of two big electronic events – State on Friday and Big One on Saturday – and can hold up to 3,000 guests. There’s also a Sunday daytime party that starts at 3 p.m., which gives you enough time to nip home for a siesta before finishing the weekend in style. For more famous names in the DJing world, head to Crobar (crobar.com.ar, Libertador 3886, Palermo Parks), set beneath a railway bridge on the edge of El Rosedal in Palermo. Friday’s Be Techno event hosts local and international DJs, while Saturday is popular with the LGBT crowd. At Crobar you’re invited to arrive early for dinner, then stay on to mingle with the latecomers.

In the city center there are two clubs that take care of your house/electronic/funk musical desires. One is Bahrein (bahreinba.com, Lavalle 345, San Nicolás), a three-story nightclub that opens on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Chill out in the cocktail lounge; boogie to soul, funk, ’80s and ’90s pop in the Funky Room; or hit the no-holds-barred basement dance floor. If you take your partying seriously, make sure to spend a night at Cocoliche (facebook.com/Cocoliche, Rivadavia 878, Monserrat). Although it’s well known, it still manages to maintain an underground vibe. Go straight to the gritty basement, which impresses with its sound system and DJs, who spin techno, minimal house, drum ‘n’ bass and more. Cocoliche opens on weekends only.

For a bit of everything – DJs, live music, drag shows – head over to Palermo Hollywood’s Niceto Club (nicetoclub.com, Niceto Vega 5510, Palermo Hollywood). It’s a stalwart on the BA nightlife scene and consistently puts on excellent nights. The most famous is Thursday’s Club 69, an eclectic evening of baroque cabaret, transvestite strippers, break-dancers and booming techno music. It may sound bizarre but it’s definitely worth experiencing. Friday and Saturday nights are reserved for indie rock and electro and are popular nights with the city’s hipsters. Nightclub events kick off after midnight, before which the venue hosts live music performances by local and international artists. If you like nightclubs with live music, La Capilla (facebook.com/lacapilla.delrock, Suipacha 842, Retiro) in Retiro should be on your to-visit list. The big night is Friday’s Fiesta de la Flor. You’ll hear live music that covers everything from cumbia and Balkan to ska, hip-hop and dancehall. Bands start around 10 p.m. and resident DJs will take you into the early hours of Saturday.

[image type=”rounded” float=”none” src=”http://www.gringoinbuenosaires.com/wp-content/uploads/niceto2.jpg” info=”popover” info_place=”top” info_trigger=”hover” info_content=”Waiting outside Niceto Club.”]

If an all-round good time is your priority, make your way to Podestá (podestafotos.com, Armenia 1740, Palermo Soho), smack in the heart of Palermo Soho. It opens as a bar at 10 p.m. – happy hour runs from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m. – and turns into a club with a good mix of locals, expats and students. Downstairs, the DJs spin rock and pop classics while upstairs is more of a dance/electro scene. The club opens from Thursday to Saturday. On trend in Palermo Hollywood is the Scandinavian-owned Unicorn Huset (unicornhuset.com, Honduras 5730, Palermo Hollywood). It’s open from Wednesday to Saturday, which makes it good for midweek partying as well as weekend fun. In true Scandinavian style, the vibe here is about drinking and letting your hair down, which leads to an ultimately young, fashionable and good-looking crowd. Unicorn opens at 9 p.m., and on a warm night it’s worth arriving early to grab a table in the garden. Should you have an urge for a midweek party, stop by Boutique (facebook.com/after.boutique, Perú 535, Monserrat). Previously called Museum, this Monserrat club is the king of after-work drinks. Every Wednesday from 7 p.m., suited workers go for what starts out as a quiet pint but turns into a booze-fueled meat market. DJs spin ’80s and ’90s pop to keep the atmosphere a happy one.

A city’s nightlife wouldn’t be the same if it didn’t have the see-and-be-seen venues that fill up with A- and B-list celebrities, plus a healthy amount of wannabes. Two such places – Jet (jet.com.ar, Rafael Obligado 4801, Costanera Norte) and Tequila (corner of Rafael Obligado and La Pampa, Costanera Norte) – can be found on the Costanera Norte. Jet is a small club that has made a name for itself by hosting exclusive fashion parties and music events. Open from Thursday to Saturday, it takes the form of a swanky lounge club where the clientele are expected to dress to impress in order to mingle with the cool and beautiful crowd. Tequila is about 500 meters down the road and is revered for bringing in the city’s most attractive women. Getting in is often all about who you know and not how many pesos you have in your pocket. That or you’ll need to be overwhelmingly good-looking or have the ability to charm the skin off a snake. Like Jet, Tequila is open from Thursday to Saturday.

Alternative clubbing options include Asia de Cuba (asiadecuba.com.ar, Olga Cossettini 751, Puerto Madero) in Puerto Madero. A restaurant by day, it becomes a chic, upmarket lounge club after midnight, attracting well-heeled tourists and Puerto Madero’s wealthy residents. Don’t bother with the restaurant; instead show up after 1 a.m., when the dance floor begins to fill up. Stroll along Avenida Juan B. Justo after midnight on a Friday or Saturday and you’ll spot clubbers milling around the doors of numerous nightclubs. In this vicinity is Rosebar (rosebar.com.ar, Honduras 5445, Palermo Soho), a warehouse-style nightclub with a huge dance floor, innumerable disco balls and groups of 20- and 30-something revelers. On Thursday, Rosebar hosts a busy after-office party from 7 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday, it’s a standard porteño nightclub party, but be prepared to confront the fashion police at the door.

One final club worth mentioning is Buenos Aires’ most-famous LGBT nightclub, Amerika (ameri-k.com.ar, Gascón 1040, Almagro). Although billed as a gay club, everyone is welcome and the varied clientele aid in creating a flamboyant and boisterous party. The club spreads over three floors and has a capacity of almost 2,000, which is made up of gay fellas, Lady Gaga wannabes, straight girls and hipsters. Amerika opens at midnight on Thursday, Friday and Saturday and also puts on a popular Sunday party. On Friday and Saturday the admission fee includes an open bar.

Seven Days of Boliches

Monday @ Club Severino: Start your week off in style at this ever-popular event, which takes place at Bahrein. There’s a different theme each week, but in general the music mixes rock and pop, hip-hop and electro, cumbia and reggaeton. Enjoy free admission before 1 a.m. when you sign up for the guest list.

Tuesday @ Kika Club: For a few years now Kika’s Hype party has been the dominant event of Buenos Aires’ Tuesday nightclub scene. Positives are that the music – often played by international DJs – ranges from electro and drum ‘n’ bass to dubstep and deep house. Negatives are that it’s overcrowded; it’s full of tourists, expats and young students; and drinks are expensive. Until something else comes along, this is the place to be on Tuesday. Check it out but don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Wednesday @ Asia de Cuba: Join the in-crowd at Puerto Madero for one of Asia de Cuba’s biggest nights of the week, the Link Up Party Coolest Connection. It attracts a crowd of regulars who show up around 1 a.m. The club isn’t cheap, so remember to bring plenty of pesos. Ladies enjoy free admission until 3 a.m.

Thursday @ Niceto Club: A fun night is guaranteed at the extravagant Club 69 event. Dance the night away to electro beats while sharing the dance floor with drag queens, transvestites, Village People lookalikes and B-boys. Due to its popularity, Club 69 draws many tourists. Still, you should check it out at least once. The affair kicks off at midnight and there’s an AR$100 cover charge. Girls go free from midnight to 2 a.m. when signing up for the guest list.

Friday @ Crobar: The BeTechno night at Crobar epitomizes the nightclubbing scene of Buenos Aires; great house music, international DJs, party-loving porteños and zero snobbishness. Previous performers include Marc Houle, Marcel Dettmann and Ben Klock, for those in the know. The cover charge is around AR$100 and doors open at 10 p.m.

Saturday @ Jet: Dig out your funkiest pair of pants and iron your favorite shirt: Saturday night is a time to mingle with the beautiful people at Jet. The door policy is notoriously strict, so plan your night carefully. Make prior inquiries about getting on the guest list or, if you have money to splash, consider reserving a VIP booth. If all else fails, stroll 500 meters down the road to Pacha.

Sunday @ Amerika: Continue your weekend’s exploits or dance away the Monday blues at this legendary anything-goes Sunday event. It’s predominately gay but is also a safe haven for all open-minded clubbers. Hard-hitting techno gets partiers on the main dance floor, with the last DJs starting their sets at 4:30 a.m. On the laid-back second floor, DJs spin Latin, pop and retro tunes. The cover charge is AR$100, and from midnight to 2 a.m. there’s a two-for-one drink special.

To avoid waiting in long lines and trying to convince ruthless doormen that you are cool enough to get into a club, do some preparation. The vast majority of clubs offer the chance to register on their guest list, which guarantees entrance up to a specified time. Simply go to their respective websites and send an email. Naturally, there’s no limit to how many guest lists you can be on. If you aren’t 100-percent sure of your final destination, register on as many lists as you possibly can.

At big-name DJ clubs, such as Alsina, Crobar and Pacha, you have the option of purchasing tickets in advance. This can be done in several ways: by contacting the club directly; via ticketing websites such as Ticketek; or at backpacker hostels.

The post Buenos Aires Boliches: Nightlife in BA first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

Summers in Buenos Aires are long, hot and humid. Many porteños pack up and head to the beaches of Mar del Plata and Punta del Este. However, scores remain, painstakingly sweating their way through the blazing temperatures in search of an air-conditioned refuge. While a cold beer can help to beat the heat, there is nothing quite like a scoop, or bowl, of Argentine ice cream to cool you down.

Ice cream is fundamental to Argentine culture and credits its existence to Italian immigration during the 19th century. The Italians brought with them two aspects of ice cream culture: 1) gelato, and 2) the ice cream parlor, locally known as the heladería. Over the years, family descendants have tinkered with recipes and created their own unique style of ice cream, the helado. Its thick yet light consistency falls somewhere between a traditional gelato and hard-frozen ice cream.

Similar to the parrilla, there is an heladería on seemingly every corner in Buenos Aires. And, even if you don’t consider yourself an ice cream fan, it won’t be long before you find yourself popping down to your local shop at 11 p.m. on a Tuesday night or phoning for delivery after a dinner party.

Classic Argentine Ice Cream Flavors

When setting foot inside any heladería in Argentina, you’ll notice a common theme: plenty of chocolate and abundant dulce de leche (similar to caramel). Argentines can’t seem to live without either when it comes to ice cream, and it’s not uncommon for them to berate those who opt for a traditional vanilla.

The classics are chocolate con almendras (almonds), chocolate suiza (chocolate chip with dulce de leche), mousse de chocolate, chocolate amargo (bitter), dulce de leche con almendras and dulce de leche con brownie. Then there are fruits such as cherry, lemon, mango, melon, pineapple and strawberry. You’ll also encounter shop specialties, which can be anything from banana split to Malbec y frutos rojos (Malbec and berries) to queso mascarpone con frutos rojos (mascarpone cheese and berries).

Best Places to Eat Ice Cream

Everybody has an opinion of the city’s best heladería, so it’s your job to go out and investigate until you find the one for you. Two chains – Freddo (freddo.com.ar) and Persicco (facebook.com/heladeriapersicco) – dominate the ice cream scene, both of which offer top-quality products, including specialist kosher and gluten-free ice cream. Freddo is the bigger of the two and has around 30 branches, varying from hole-in-the-wall takeout spots to shopping mall stands and bright cafes. Freddo offers a dozen chocolate flavors, several varieties of dulce de leche and unusual options such as maracuyá cheesecake (passion fruit) and berries with Malbec. Persicco is a family-run company whose parlors are stylishly decorated. You’ll find all of your classic flavors plus soy-based ice cream. Persicco is your friend on weekends, as it provides a delivery service until 4 a.m. Another chain is Un’Altra Volta, which is similar to Persicco though slightly more upmarket.

If you’re more of a traditionalist, check out Cadore (heladeriacadore.com.ar, Corrientes 1695). This family-run business began in northern Italy back in 1881 and set up shop in Buenos Aires in 1957. There are almost 50 flavors to choose from, so take your time and be sure to ask for tasters (and don’t miss out on the famed dulce de leche). Because it’s situated in the heart of the theater district, Cadore is a popular post-theater location. Also historic is AM Scannapieco (Nazca 5274), which opened in Palermo in 1938 and recently relocated to Villa Pueyrredón. It’s a bit far from the tourist trail but worth the trip to taste ice cream made using the same machines and recipes that were used the day it opened.

For anyone who finds themselves in the Belgrano area, Furchi (Cabildo 1508) competes for the title of the barrio’s best. This friendly parlor opened in 1959 and prides itself on low-fat ice cream (just 6-10%, for you statisticians). Choose from more than 60 flavors, including the unusual ananá con perejil (pineapple with parsley) and fresco y batata (mascarpone cheese and sweet potato). While the chains mentioned above are all over Palermo, Fratello (heladeriafratello.com, Coronel Díaz 1521) offers something different. It’s a cozy barrio parlor with a pleasant, and covered, outdoor seating area. Indulge in a gluttonous Tramontana: thick cream, dulce de leche and chocolate-dipped biscuits – one of more than 50 flavors. There’s another location a few blocks away on Plaza Güemes.

Finally, if you’re ever in the Palermo Chico area, go to Jauja (heladosjauja.com.ar, Cerviño 3901), an artisanal parlor from El Bolsón, Patagonia. Worth trying are the chocolate arabé (almonds, walnuts, peanut praline, raisins and rum) and the maqui, which is a native Patagonian fruit. Be warned, though: Jauja is famous for being extremely sweet.

The post The Best Ice Cream in Buenos Aires first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

Each month we ask a Porteño (Buenos Aires Native) the same 15 questions with the goal of getting a unique perspective on Buenos Aires that visitors and expats alike can learn from. In this month’s edition we meet up with Matías Serrano, an Internet Publisher.

Matías Serrano: Age 35. Originally from Quilmes, Lives in Palermo. Works in Internet Publishing.

1. Describe a perfect day in Buenos Aires for you?
Sunny Sunday, or sometime during summer vacations, when there are fewer cars on the street, and you can actually enjoy a less stressed-out city. BA is awesome without cars and busses!

2. Where would you bring someone who is visiting Buenos Aires for the first time?
It could depend on the person, what they like and what they’re looking for. But in general, I’d just take ‘em to wherever I’d enjoy going at the moment. So if I’m big on going to eat outside, and want to have, say, a great bife de chorizo, I’d probably go to dinner at Happening (Av. Rafael Obligado 7030 between La Pampa y R. Obligado in Costanera Norte). This place used to be a “carrito” (in fact all of those fancy restaurants at Costanera Norte used to be carritos, that’s why the saying is “Vamos a comer a los carritos” when you’re going to these venues). And for going out at night, anywhere around Palermo would do. But again, it depends who I’m entertaining.

3. Do you have any preferences on where to go shopping or any secrets?
For cheap, fairly good stuff, probably the outlet zone in Palermo/Villa Crespo. For even cheaper stuff, not that good quality: Barrio de Once. If super low prices is not a must, any local mall would be a good option for someone earning any other currency but pesos.

4. What is your favorite restaurant and why?
As I said earlier: Happening in Costanera Norte. The quality of the food is top notch, great service, great view of the river, great terrace… Although nowadays it has become quite pricy.
For a lower budget: Juana M. (Carlos Pellegrini 1535 ). It has a cool ambiance, more informal. They haven’t done any publicity, just word of mouth. And it’s pretty hidden visually, although locals have managed to make it a success.

5. What is your favorite Parrilla and why?
Happening in Costanera Norte is a parrilla. Other than that, again on the lower budget spectrum I’d choose the “Cumaná” branch of restaurants (Las Cholas, Las Cabras, Las Cabritas, la Cholita y El Ñandú). Great food in quality and quantity for low prices (approved by local demand).

6. What place has the best empanadas and why?
Best empanadas I’ve ever eaten were from a restaurant which is now closed: Hoyo 19, it was located at 1000 Callao st., same quality of empanadas: El Mangrullo, a place in Quilmes (Gran Buenos Aires). Sadly, closed as well. I haven’t found any quality of empanadas even close to those. But as a rule of thumb, good pizzerias will usually have good empanadas. One that comes to mind is Cümen Cümen, in Palermo, good quality and variety, but I repeat: nothing comes even close to the prior. (I’ll let you know if I ever find something similar… we should contact those guys and make a fortune selling empanadas).

7. What is your favorite Pizzeria?
My favorite is a bit outside of Buenos Aires City: Pizzería Los Maestros (Mitre 609), in Quilmes. In Buenos Aires City, for pizza “al molde” I’d choose Las Cuartetas (Corrientes 838) and Guerrín (Corrientes 1368). For pizza a la piedra I’d probably go with Pascana (Paraguay 5100).

8. Besides meat and empanadas, what is an Argentine food that everyone has to try?
Charque (which is dry meat, but something no one tries when they come to Argentina); locro, puchero, Mbaypú. Old argentine meals, very caloric, people would eat in the campos after a long day of work. For the sweet tooth: arroz con leche (with cinnamon), and Dulce de leche Chimbote.

9. What is your favorite bar/club?
Right now I’d say Rosebar. But it depends what are your tastes and goals for the night.

10. What do you love about Buenos Aires?
The amount of options you have at any time of the day.

11. What do you hate about Buenos Aires?
Traffic and anything derived from government, ie: poverty.

12. If a tourist wants to spend time in Buenos Aires like a local, what should they do, where should they go?
Get a job, live off a peso based salary… They’d probably flee the country in no time, lol.

13. What is an authentic cultural experience in Buenos Aires where there are no tourists?
I’d go to a library, say Biblioteca Sarmiento, inside the Palacio Pizzurno (Pizzurno 935), and just spend some time there, pick a book and read. You’ll be next to local students pushing to get ahead intellectually, and it’s a great place to meet interesting, curious, people when you take a break.

14. What is your favorite Neighborhood? Why?
If you are young: Palermo
If you are in your second youth: Recoleta

15. What is your favorite destination in Argentina outside of Buenos Aires to travel to? Why?
In winter, the snowed mountains: Bariloche (also, or more, beautiful in fall and summer), San Martin de los Andes…
In summer, the beach: Mar de las Pampas, Cariló, Pinamar, Mar del Plata…
(But this is from someone who loves skiing –although it’s very pricy for locals nowadays- and bodyboarding).

The post Ask A Porteño: 15 Questions With Buenos Aires Native Matías Serrano first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

Each month we ask a Porteño (Buenos Aires Native) the same 15 questions with the goal of getting a unique perspective on Buenos Aires that visitors and expats alike can learn from. In this month’s edition we meet up with Juan Schmidt, a filmmaker and video producer.

Juan is a graduate of Image and Sound Design from the University of Buenos Aires. He has worked as video store clerk, in film societies, and as a film critic. His current profession is editing and doing camerawork for a wide range of clients that include anything from TV shows to Evangelical conferences. In 2013 he showed his first full length movie, POLVAREDA, at the Mar del Plata International Film Fest and other places. In the meantime, he is releasing his first documentary: LOS MONSTRUOS (The Monsters).

Juan Schmidt: Age 35. Lives in Chacarita. Filmmaker and Video Producer.

1. Describe a perfect day in Buenos Aires for you?
In the morning I would ride my bike. Buenos Aires has a lot of bicycle paths, and beautiful places to ride (like Palermo, Agronomía or San Isidro and Tigre in the north suburbs). Then I would eat lunch in a parrilla with a good wine (specifically a malbec from Cafayate-Salta). Later I would play soccer with friends. And at night I would go from bar to bar: a tour, something that me and my friends call “mogotour” around Palermo or Almagro (where the most milongas or tango clubs are). Then, to a church to confess our sins.

2. Where would you bring someone who is visiting Buenos Aires for the first time?
Neither Puerto Madero or the city center with its ridiculous obelisk. To make the thing a bit typical: I would take them to visit a stadium to see a football match. Or a true tango club, like The Cathedral of Tango. In those places you can meet the true Argentine folklore.

3. Do you have any preferences on where to go shopping or any secrets?
I think one cool thing about Buenos Aires are the fairs (ferias) or markets. You can find anything there; from old and strange things (like an “Ovni Caller” -literally- manufactured in Argentina in the 60´s to contact UFO’s) to imported products from China. One of the best is the fair in Parque Centenario on the weekends. And the people always talk about the famous La Salada Market.

4. What is your favorite restaurant and why?
We have a lot to offer in terms of restaurants. It all depends on what you want to eat. Currently I like going to Le Ble –yes, is a bit frenchy- but they have great vibe, food and a few different locations.

The Trailer for Juan’s new film POLVAREDA (with English subtitles)

5. What is your favorite Parrilla and why?
I don´t have any. In Buenos Aires there are a lot. My secret is to visit small parrillas around Buenos Aires. I think that the more dust on the floor a parrilla has, the better you can eat. An example of a good neighborhood parrilla is Lo de Charly, in Villa Urquiza (Alvarez Thomas 2101), open 24 hours. Don´t forget to eat the molleja, chinchulin and the popular bondipan (a sandwich of swine meat).

6. What place has the best empanadas and why?
The most characteristic tastes or types of “empanadas” are meat, chicken, and cheese and ham. In my opinion the best empanadas of those flavors are from El Imperio (Av. Corrientes 6895) in Chacarita. There is a guy there specialized in empanada preparation. The chicken empanada from there is the best in Argentina and also is the best in the universe.

7. What is your favorite Pizzeria?
We must go back to Av Corrientes where all the best pizzerias are located. Guerrin, On Av. Corrientes 1368 near the city center, is my favorite. Its pizza not only is delicious, it comforts the spirit as well. I recommend to eat it without sitting: the pizza from Guerrin tastes better if you eat it standing on foot, between the taxi drivers.

8. Besides meat and empanadas, what is an Argentine food that everyone has to try?
I think a Milanesa napolitana. Is one of my favorites. And a strange thing: you will not find it in Naples, Italy.

9. What is your favorite bar/club?
At this moment, my favorite bar is Sonoman (Fitz Roy 1655). Great music, not expensive drinks and free entrance. And if you are bored there, you got a lot of good bars near: Carnal, Ferona, Makena. And if you don´t like these others, you can come to my home: it is close by and plays the best music.

An interview with Juan about his new film POLVAREDA (In Spanish)

10. What do you love about Buenos Aires?
The people. We are very social, passionate, interesting… yes, we are the coolest in the world!

11. What do you hate about Buenos Aires?
Its chaos, but at the same time, it is a paradox, it is one of the aspects that make the city so funny. Anything can happen in Buenos Aires.

12. If a tourist wants to spend time in Buenos Aires like a local, what should they do, where should they go?
Don´t end your days in a hostel in San Telmo or Palermo. Rent a room or a flat in a true Porteño neighborhood! Like La Paternal, Almagro or Chacarita. Walk around the streets, talk with the people and drink a beer with the guys on the corner.

13. What is an authentic cultural experience in Buenos Aires where there are no tourists?
The cultural fairs of Parque Centenario and Parque Rivadavia. You will find everything there: books, movies, albums, etc. A few years ago, I saw Thurnston Moore from the band Sonic Youth looking for music in the Parque Rivadavia.

14. What is your favorite Neighborhood? Why?
Villa Devoto. But you must take a bus, the subway doesn’t go there. It is a very nice, quiet neighborhood. I will live there when i am in my 60’s, with a hairy dog and a twenty year old girlfriend.

15. What is your favorite destination in Argentina outside of Buenos Aires to travel to? Why?
The north. Not the south. Start in Tucuman and go up to Salta, Jujuy, the infinite and beyond!

The post Ask A Porteño: 15 Questions With Buenos Aires Native Juan Schmidt first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

What this guide is and isn’t

This guide is designed to give you a great overview of the places you will most likely visit on your trip to Argentina. Planning a trip can be daunting, so we have broken down the country to the most likely places you will visit and have provided actionable information on how to make the most of your time in said places. What we have done with this guide is gutted out all the fat, making it easier to focus on the most common places to visit in Argentina and get the most out of them. Lets face it, most people will have two weeks at most to travel around Argentina leaving them with only a few place to visit. We cover the must visit places, breaking it down to give you great options to choose from in your travel preparations.

Who this guide is for and who it isn’t for

This guide is designed for someone coming to Argentina for their first time on a trip of around 2 weeks. It provides great information to help in the planning of a trip and also actionable information while in Argentina.

This guide is not designed for someone who plans on traveling Argentina for an extended period. We are honest when we say a Lonely Planet or Fodor’s would be a better bet for a backpacker traveling around, who needs to know about hostels in a middle of nowhere town in Entre Rios Province.

In this guide you will find great information on where to stay, where to eat and what to do in the following Argentina destinations:

• Mendoza Province
• Salta and Jujuy Region
• Bariloche and the Lake District
• El Calafate and El Chaltén Region
• Iguazú Falls
• Puerto Madryn
• The Atlantic Coast
• Tierra del Fuego
• Cordoba Province
• Rosario
• Buenos Aires

A European-influenced capital city and busy Atlantic coast beach resorts, tropical rainforests and towering glaciers, rolling mountains and vast savannahs, wine lands and rivers. Argentina’s attractions are varied and celebrated in style. Argentina stretches from the southernmost point of Bolivia to literally the end of the world and is both one of the longest and most assorted destinations on the planet. Whatever your pleasure, you are certain to find it here, from adrenalin-induced adventure sports to wine and culinary tours, political lessons to historical trails.

You will already have heard about the capital city, Buenos Aires, with its confident swagger, relentless party lifestyle and Tango culture. Yet, what about the rest of the world’s eighth-largest country? Take time to explore the towns and cities of its most celebrated provinces. Take a wine tasting tour of the Mendoza vineyards or join a trek of Aconcagua, the America’s tallest mountain. Explore the colonial towns of Salta, take a train ride through the clouds and marvel at a seven-colored hill in Purmamarca, Jujuy.

Head to Bariloche and discover vast placid lakes, and Swiss architecture and chocolate. Gaze in awe at the thundering waters of Iguazú Falls or visit Ushuaia, the city at the end of the world. In Puerto Madryn you can spot penguins and southern right whales whilst in El Calafate you can walk atop a giant ice glacier. Join Argentines at their treasured Atlantic beach resorts, such as Mar del Plata and Pinamar. Go to a German beer festival in Villa General Belgrano, Córdoba, or visit Rosario, which is the birthplace of local hero and revolutionist Che Guevara.

It is all included in this preparation guide to Argentina!

Pick up The Argentina Prep Guide: Prepare For Your Trip to Argentina for only $6.47 now!

The post The Argentina Prep Guide: Prepare for Your Trip to Argentina first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

Article updated on February 11, 2014.

After the Argentine peso was de-pegged from the dollar following the financial crisis of 2001/2002, people visiting Buenos Aires with dollars found that the country was incredibly inexpensive. As the years rolled on, Argentina experienced annual inflation around 25% to 30%, resulting in prices even in dollar terms to rise. The official exchange rate didn’t devalue in relation to the dollar fast enough for prices in dollar terms to absorb the rising consumer prices in pesos. So for many tourists and expats exchanging their dollars for pesos every month, things actually started to seem expensive in Argentina.

After the end of 2011 when the government imposed restrictions on the amount of dollars Argentine citizens could buy for savings or travel (basically banning the purchase of foreign currency), the black market for dollars picked up steam, creating a parallel exchange rate which at some moments was 60-70% more expensive (this alternative exchange rate is called the “blue rate”). This was not good news for Argentines, but for tourists or expats with dollars, this meant they could buy more pesos for the same amount of dollars, increasing their purchasing power dramatically and making Argentina seem cheap again.

How cheap or how expensive Argentina is depends on what rate you change your dollars at. Before Argentina officially devalued its peso in mid January 2014, if you were to exchange dollars on January 1st at the official rate of 6.5 pesos/dollar, prices would have been pretty expensive for you even compared to other countries. But if you would have exchanged dollars at the blue rate of 10.2 pesos/dollar, you would have received 57% more pesos. A cocktail that cost 50 pesos would have cost you around $4.90 dollars instead of around $7.60 dollars. Argentina then devalued its currency to 8 pesos/dollar at the official rate, sending the blue rate to over 13 pesos/dollar. Within just a month those changing their dollars at the blue rate saw around a 30% increase in their purchasing power (and those whose only option is to change at the official rate benefited as well). Granted, many places raised their prices in pesos as a result of the devaluation, especially those who sell imported goods like electronics, but this recent increase in purchasing power has benefited those with greenbacks.

The point of all this is that for those with dollars, Argentina varies monthly, weekly or even daily in terms of how cheap it seems. Sometimes the increases in the official or blue rate don’t make up for the inflation in pesos prices. Other times the blue rate sky rockets and the same dinner eaten the week before costs less. As of this writing on February 11, 2014, the official rate has cooled down from its high of over 8 pesos/dollar a couple weeks ago to 7.82 pesos/dollar. The blue rate is down from its high of over 13 to 11.7 pesos/dollar.

Regardless of these fluctuations, it very clear that we want to be exchanging our dollars at the blue rate or as close to it as we can. The following are some general guidelines to follow to get the best rate.

1. DO NOT Change your dollars at the airport!!
Do not under any circumstances change your dollars at the airport. The exchange houses here give rates that are less that the official rate! If you absolutely need pesos when you arrive to the airport, an ATM will give you the official exchange rate, minus whatever fees.

2. Bring physical dollars or euros to exchange.
Unlike travel to other countries, unless you want things to be a lot more expensive, don’t just rely on taking out money from an ATM to get the local currency. You will need to bring physical dollars or euros to exchange and it is not possible to withdraw physical dollars from ATMs in Argentina.

3. Underground exchange houses offer the best rate, but be careful.
In order to get the blue rate, you need to go to an underground “cueva” exchange house to change your dollars to pesos. These places operate in a legal grey area. Although technically illegal, they are allowed to operate. In the downtown of Buenos Aires along the walking streets of Lavalle and Florida, you will find literally hundreds of people shouting “cambio, cambio” (change, change). It should be no problem to exchange with one of these guys, but if you don’t speak Spanish and look like an easy tourist to take advantage of, they could try to scam you in some way. The point is to stay street smart. If something seems fishy, walk away.

4. Ask your hotel, school, or any friendly local for a trustworthy money changer.
To build on point #3, if you are uncomfortable going up to a random money changer, ask around to find a trustworthy one. Most hotels can probably point you in the right direction or even change the money for you. If you are studying Spanish or in school, ask around at your school.

5. See if a local you know wants to buy dollars.
If you are just arriving to Argentina for vacation you might not know anyone, but depending on your contacts in the country, see if anyone you know wants to buy dollars. Most would be interested in exchanging dollars with you at the blue rate.

6. Ask retail stores you shop at if they accept dollars.
Many retail stores will accept dollars as payment at around the blue rate. If you are looking to buy some clothes, gifts, jewelry, etc., ditch the credit card and ask to pay in cash. This is especially useful if you are just visiting on vacation for a week. If you pay with a credit card, you will be stuck paying with the official rate.

7. You can withdraw physical dollars from ATMs in Uruguay.
If you have been in Buenos Aires or Argentina for a while and want to refill on physical dollars without having to return to your home country, consider a trip to Uruguay. It is an easy ferry ride from Buenos Aires and you can be back the same day.

8. Use Xoom.com to transfer money from your USA bank account to Argentina at close to the blue rate.
Xoom is an online international money transfer service. Xoom partners with select money transfer services in countries around the world and allows you to send money from your bank account in the United States directly into an Argentine bank account or for cash pick up at More Argentina (Xoom’s money transfer service in Argentina) using only the internet.

You won’t get the blue rate, but you will be close and still way better off than exchanging at the official rate. As of February 11, 2014 the blue rate is 11.7 and the XOOM rate is 10.6.

For expats living in Buenos Aires who have bank accounts in Argentina and earn dollars overseas, using Xoom to convert their dollars to pesos is an easy way to do it.

For travelers coming to Buenos Aires who don’t have bank accounts in Argentina, it is still possible to use the Xoom money pick up feature. You can transfer the money online after you set up your xoom account and then pick up your pesos at the More Argentina branch located in Recoleta at Libertad 1057.

Unfortunately Xoom is only available to people with bank accounts in the USA.

9. Although you should bring physical dollars to Argentina, don’t forgot to bring an ATM card just in case.
It is always a good idea to make sure you bring an ATM card with you for emergencies. You may only be getting the official rate, but with the recent devaluation it is not that bad. The best ATM card to have in Buenos Aires is the Charles Schwab high yield investor checking account. It charges no international fees and refunds any ATM service charges. The maximum amount of pesos you can withdrawal in one ATM session is 1000, but it is possible to do multiple withdrawals of 1000 pesos in a single day by taking your card out and starting a new transaction.

10. If you are in Argentina or Buenos Aires taking dance classes, yoga, martial arts, private spanish classes, etc., ask if you can pay in dollars.
It obviously makes more sense to try and hold onto your dollars and spend your pesos. You will most likely be able to change your dollars in the future at a better rate for more pesos. But in certain cases it might make more sense to pay for things in dollars. For example, lets say you take yoga classes. In order to pay for those classes, you will at some point need to change your dollars into pesos. It can become a nuisance to have to go to a sketchy cueva to exchange your dollars every week or month. You could propose to your yoga teacher to accept a certain amount of dollars for each class or for a month’s worth of classes, possibly saving you more money than if you would convert those same dollars to pesos. It all depends on what deal you can work out with your teacher, but it is an idea worth exploring.

[x_alert type=”info”]These are some great ideas that you can use to increase your purchasing power in Argentina if you have dollars. Does anyone else have any good advice about exchanging money in Argentina? Please let us know in the comments.[/x_alert]

Disclaimer: This post is for educational purposes only. This post should not be mistaken for direct advice. Use anything you read at your own risk.

The post How To Get The Best Exchange Rate When Traveling To Argentina first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

EAT & DRINK

Pick Up The Fork
For the best web resource on all things food, drinks and restaurants, look no further than www.pickupthefork.com. Pick Up The Fork is the go to guide for figuring out what restaurant or bar to go to. Amazing lists, heavily researched and good wit, you don’t need any other site for all your food needs.

Anuva Wines
If you are looking to dive into the world of Argentine Wine, you can’t go wrong with attending a wine tasting at Anuva Wines.

The Argentine Experience
For a great overview of Argentine cuisine, check out The Argentine Experience. In a newly renovated building in Palermo Hollywood, at The Argentine Experience you will learn how to make your own empanadas, prepare mate, eat amazing steak, sample incredible Argentine wine and make Argentine style desserts.

Parrilla Tour
Want to explore the best “off the beaten path” restaurants and cuisines in Buenos Aires? Book a spot on the Parrilla Tour. The Parrilla Tour will take you around to visit some of the cities best “hole in the wall” parrillas to try meats and empanadas, visiting places that tourists would never know of.

Book Recommendation: Don’t Fry for Me Argentina
Written by chef Dan Perlman of the popular closed door restaurant Casa Salt Shaker and the great food blog Saltshaker, Don’t Fry for Me Argentina is a great collection of stories about life in Buenos Aires mixed with anecdotes about food.

EXPLORE: TOURS & ACTIVITIES

Landing Pad BA
For all your tour and activity needs, www.landingpadba.com is the place to find the right one for you. Landing Pad BA is a trustworthy, convenient place to book all the best tours and activities in Buenos Aires. It is also the best place to get tickets to football matches at good prices which can be very sketchy going through other channels. Learn how to play Polo, go on food tours, book airport transportation, learn or watch tango and explore the city with trusted guides. It is all there!

Buenos Aires Cultural Concierge
Looking to have personal customization of your stay in Buenos Aires? Buenos Aires Culture Concierge can design itineraries based on your needs. For those who feel more secure being guided by a trustworthy host, BACC will be with your every step of the way.

Buenos Tours
A consistent winner of TripAdvisor’s “Certificate of Excellence”, Buenos Tours offers private walking tours to explore Buenos Aires. Walking is one of the best ways to gain a sense of the overall “vibe” of Buenos Aires and if you are new to the city one of the best ways to do it is with a custom guide who knows the best places to go.

NEWS & CURRENT EVENTS

The Argentina Independent
To stay on top of Buenos Aires and Argentine current events, news and social issues, the best English language resource out there is www.argentinaindependent.com.

Buenos Aires Herald
The oldest English newspaper in Argentina, The Buenos Aires Herald provides a good daily overview of the news.

MercoPress
The Argentina section of MercoPress is a great English resources to stay on top of economic issues related to Argentina. Stay on top of all the “dollar Blue” mania here.

The Bubble
“The Bubble is a news aggregator website and op-ed platform that dissects what is happening in Argentina, covering current events and analyzing pop and media culture.”

LEARN SPANISH

PRIVATE LESSONS: Speak Spanish BA
Speak Spanish BA is the professional name for private Spanish teacher Cynthia Vilaplana, recently featured in our “Ask a Porteño” series. Cynthia has been giving private Spanish lessons for the past 6 years to students all over the world and comes highly recommended.

GROUP LESSONS: Expanish
If you are looking to take group lessons, EXPANISH is the best Spanish school in Buenos Aires. Class sizes are small and you will meet people from all over the world. Activities and dinners are available all through the week as well.

USE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

Como Viajo
Como Viajo is an easy tool to figure out how to get from one specific address to another in Buenos Aires using public transportation. Just enter your starting address and your final address and it will give you several different options of how to arrive by subway or bus.

MAPA BUENOS AIRES
The same tool as Como Viajo but the city government’s version. Many find this site easier to use than Como Viajo and with better functionality. They are both worth visiting to figure out which one you like best.

FIND A PLACE TO STAY OR LIVE

Airbnb
Airbnb is a great place to find an apartment to stay in if you are coming to Buenos Aires for a couple days, a week or a few months. Before AirBnB there were an overabundance of apartment rental websites to choose from, but now most of them have their apartments listed on AirBnB.

ArgenProp
If you are looking for a long term rental or a place to buy, check out ArgenProp. It has thousands of apartments to rent or buy listed. (Website in Spanish).

Craigslist
The Buenos Aires version of Craigslist is not a bad place to try and find an apartment. It is especially good for finding cheap accommodation. You will have to dig a little, but ever once an a while a great opportunity comes up for a cheap room.

GENERAL BUENOS AIRES INFORMATION

Looking for more blogs and websites that provide valuable Buenos Aires information like Gringo In BA? The following are a list of websites and blogs that provide high value Buenos Aires tidbits from a different perspective.

Wander Argentina
Wander Argentina is a great website with a multitude of wonderful information on Buenos Aires and Argentina in general.

BA Expats
BA Expats is the most active “expat” forum for expats and visitors in Buenos Aires. It is a good place to go if you have a specific question or are looking for a specific thing in Buenos Aires. Just don’t spend a lot of time browsing the forums as it consists of a lot of people complaining and will taint the perspective of your own specific experience of Buenos Aires.

Discover Buenos Aires
Discover Buenos Aires provides very specific, actionable advice regarding living in Buenos Aires from the expat point of view. The tips, suggestions, contacts are all highly valuable.

My Buenos Aires Travel Guide
My Buenos Aires Travel Guide provides a good up to date overview of all the happenings and activities that occur monthly in Buenos Aires.

The post The Buenos Aires Survival Guide: Resources For Making The Most Of Your Time Here first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

Each month we ask a Porteño (Buenos Aires Native) the same 15 questions with the goal of getting a unique perspective on Buenos Aires that visitors and expats alike can learn from. In this month’s inaugural edition we meet up with Cynthia Vilaplana, A Spanish Teacher and Journalist.

Cynthia Vilaplana: Age 33. Lives in Almagro. Born in Flores. Private Spanish Teacher at Speak Spanish BA.

1. Describe a perfect day in Buenos Aires for you?
My favorite day is Saturday because you can sleep in and enjoy breakfast. In the afternoon I like to meet up with my friends, ride bikes, check out a market and drink mate. At night eat something tasty, preferably delivery and afterwards go out to a bar or watch a movie at home.

2. Where would you bring someone who is visiting Buenos Aires for the first time?
I would take them to the San Telmo Market if it is Sunday, a parrilla and a milonga. The most important thing is that they experience the culture, so I would bring them somewhere where I go with my friends.

3. Do you have any preferences on where to go shopping or any secrets?
I like to shop for cheap things, haha, so in that regard it is best to head to Once or Calle Avellaneda. On the weekends the bars and nightclubs of Palermo around Plaza Serrano turn into a clothing fair where you can buy fashionable clothes at a good price.

4. What is your favorite restaurant and why?
I will tell you two. One expensive and one with average prices. My favorite expensive restaurant is Osaka, which is a fusion of japonese and peruvian food. The sushi and ceviche are delicious. The other is Las Cabras (o La Cholita same restaurant and owner, different name and location) because you can eat Argentine food at a great price. I love the Humita en Chala and the empanadas from there.

5. What is your favorite Parrilla and why?
El 22, because I find it to be a good average between price and quality.

6. What place has the best empanadas and why?
El Gourmet which is only delivery makes tasty, well filled empanadas and has a lot of variety. A great hole in the wall place is La Simona (Acuña de Figueroa 1317) in Palermo Viejo. From a sit-down restaurant, I would say that the empanadas from 1810 (3 locations, Palermo, Belgrano, Microcentro) are great.

7. What is your favorite empanada flavor?
Humita, which is corn in a white sauce. I also love carne picante and carne dulce.

8. Besides meat and empanadas, what is an Argentine food that everyone has to try?
Locro is a classic, pastel de papas and el choripán. For something sweet, alfajores and facturas with dulce de leche.

9. What is your favorite bar/club?
You Know my Name, it has a good crowd (around my age) and the music is great.

10. What do you love about Buenos Aires?
There is always something to do: an event, a fair or market, a tasting, an exhibition, etc.

11. What do you hate about Buenos Aires?
There is a lot of trash, the dog poop in the streets, like every big city it is noisy and the traffic can be horrible and caotic.

12. If a tourist wants to spend time in Buenos Aires like a local, what should they do, where should they go?
They should live with a Porteña family, try to meet people from Buenos Aires, you could do this for example in a Peña. They could rent a bike and go the first sunday of every month to La Masa Crítica.

13. What is an authentic cultural experience in Buenos Aires where there are no tourists?
I would say a Peña more than a Milonga, but there are tourists everywhere. They could go and eat at Bellagamba (there are a lot).

14. What is your favorite Neighborhood? Why?
I am from Flores, I like it, it is a relaxing place. I also like Almagro because it is up and coming with lovely bars and restaurants.

15. What is your favorite destination in Argentina outside of Buenos Aires to travel to? Why?
My favorite place to visit would be Villa Angostura. It is a small little village near Bariloche in the province of Neuquén. I love it because it is very relaxing and in the middle of nowhere, looks like Switzerland and all the buildings are made of wood.

Cynthia Vilaplana has been giving private Spanish lessons to students from all over the world for the last 6 years. If you are interested in private lessons with her, contact here at {speakspanishba}{@}{gmail}{dot}{com} or on her website.

The post Ask A Porteño: 15 Questions With Buenos Aires Native Cynthia Vilaplana first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

Situated in the north easternmost corner of Argentina in the province of Misiones and spilling across the border to Brazil is the spectacular Iguazú Falls. Also known as Iguassu Falls and Iguacu Falls, no matter what you decide to call it, there is no denying that this is one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls. To put it into some kind of perspective, Iguazú Falls is four times as wide as Canada’s Niagara Falls. Making it so special is the fact that it is not just one waterfall but a collection of 275 individual cascades that line a 1.7 mile (2.7 kilometer) wide horseshoe-shaped gorge.

Spanish explorer Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca became the first European to find the falls. He arrived in 1541, during his quest to reinstate the then settlement of Buenos Aires. The first inhabitants of the region were the Caingangue people, a native group that resided in the southern provinces of Brazil. Then came the Tupi-Guaraní people. A tribal legend states that when a woman and her lover tried to escape along the river a god cut the river in half thus forming the falls and punishing the lovers. The name Iguazú comes from the Guaraní word for big or great water.

Iguazú Falls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and in 2011 it became part of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. It is part of protected rainforest ecosystem and split into two national parks: Parque Nacional Iguazú (Argentina) and Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (Brazil). Experiencing the noise of the rushing water and admiring the sheer drops of up to 80 meters (262 feet) high are obvious highlights. However, the falls and park are also home to over 2,000 plant species, around 450 bird species and abundant mammals. In fact, the region provides a natural habitat for half of Argentina’s birds, including parrots and toucans. Some say that it is possible to see jaguars and pumas but you’d need to be extremely lucky. Nevertheless, sightings of crocodiles, otters, raccoons and monkeys are common.

Iguazú Falls and its surrounding region has a subtropical climate, which produces high year-round temperatures. Arguably the best time to visit is in spring or fall. The months of September to November are a particularly good time as they offer comfortable temperatures, especially if you plan to walk a lot. From mid-December to February temperatures are extremely hot and humid. This is also when Argentines and Brazilians take their holidays so the region gets overcrowded and accommodation prices increase. During the southern hemisphere’s winter months water levels are traditionally lower. If you do come at this time you’ll benefit from fewer tourists and lower temperatures. Barring a severe drought, there is never really a bad time to come.

Whether arriving from Argentina or Brazil, getting to Iguazú Falls is easy. Both Puerto Iguazú in Argentina and Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil are tourist friendly and set up to accommodate the thousands of annual visitors. Due to its position on the Argentine-Brazilian border, the falls are often either the first or last point of call for travelers in Argentina. This makes for a lasting impression regardless of whether you are starting or finishing your discovery of the country.

Buses from Buenos Aires depart regularly from Retiro station with a journey time of around 18 hours. A result of the falls’ popularity is that these buses are some of the most comfortable available in the country. If you are pushed for time then you can fly to airports on both sides of the waterfalls. The flight time is around two hours.

Visiting the Waterfalls

It is important to remember that the Parque Nacional Iguazú sits on both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of the Iguazú River. Allow at least two days to visit the waterfalls and try to visit both sides because each offers a different perspective of the natural wonder. On the Argentine side you can explore walking trails that weave between the park’s tropical rainforest and experience the full power of the rushing waters. The Brazilian side offers panoramic and full frontal views of the various waterfalls.

Argentine Side

Upon entering the park you will find the Centro de Interpretacion, or Visitor Center. Pick up maps of walking trails and take time to read the displays that tell about the history, climate and geology of the waterfalls. The best way to discover the falls and park is on foot and a guide is not necessary. However, English-speaking guides are available at the Visitor Center for both individual and group tours.

Jump on the Jungle Train to the Falls Station, which marks the beginning of two walking trails: Lower Circuit and Upper Circuit. The park entrance fee includes unlimited rides on the train. If you prefer to walk then take the Sendero Verde footpath that leads to the circuits from the Visitor Center. The Lower Circuit offers the best views of the waterfalls via eight designated lookouts, including the Dos Hermanos (Two Brothers) and Tres Mosqueteros (Three Musketeers) falls. The circuit is just over one mile and takes around two hours to complete. Extend the walk by climbing down a staircase at Salto Bossetti falls to a small pier. From here, catch a free ferry to San Martin Island. Enjoy panoramic views, sunbathe on the beach or swim in the river. Don’t miss the chance to ride in a speed boat directly beneath one of the falls. Trips depart from the pier and incur an additional fee.

The Upper Circuit is only half a mile long and takes just over an hour to walk. It crosses the top of the canyon and allows you to look down over the edge of the falls, some of which are 60 meters (197 feet) tall. You’ll also get the chance to discover the park’s flora, including cacti and orchids. The circuit is best in the morning or close to sunset, when rainbows appear over the river.

After exploring the circuits, continue walking or catch the train to the Devil’s Throat Station. From here it is a 1,200 meter walk to the biggest attraction on Iguazú Falls, La Garganta del Diablo (or Devil’s Throat). A lookout area grants the opportunity to watch the water rush from the river and down an 80 meter (262 feet) high sheer drop. En route to the fall, keep an eye out for birds and crocodiles resting in the river below the walkway.

Located adjacent to the Visitor Center and Falls Station are cafés and snack shops so you’ll be able to purchase food and drink. Alternatively, bring your own packed lunch and enjoy a picturesque picnic.

If you have the time to return to the Argentine side for a second day be sure to walk the Sendero Macuco (Macuco Nature Trail). This 3.75 mile (6 kilometer) round trip puts you in direct contact with the park’s flora and fauna. It is far quieter than the Upper and Lower Circuits and if you stand silent you’ll be able to hear the call of over 450 species of birds. The trail runs from Central Station to a waterfall on the Arrechea stream. You can swim in a pool at the waterfall so remember to pack a towel and swimsuit. There are no shops on the route so bring your own water and snacks.

When visiting for a second day, ask at the Visitors Center about discounted admission fees.

Iguazú Jungle is a tour agency operating from inside the park. It offers 4X4 drives, speed boat trips and walks.

This side of the park is open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Check the official Iguazú Argentina website for admission fees and the train departure times.

With money to burn, a night in the Sheraton Iguazú Resort and Spa offers rooms with falls’ views, a rooftop terrace and private access to the park. However, one night here could be the equivalent of a one week’s living expense for a backpacker.

Brazilian Side

Catch a bus from Puerto Iguazú station to visit the Brazilian side of the falls. Buses stop at the Argentine border checkpoint and will wait whilst your passport is stamped. Buses then continue to the Brazilian checkpoint but don’t stop automatically. Make sure to tell the driver that you need to get off. If the bus has already left, just walk to the main road where you can jump on a bus to the park entrance. If you are an Australian, Canadian, or US citizen then you might have to pay a reciprocal visa fee when entering or re-entering Argentina. Check the current situation with your foreign office or embassy before traveling.

Whereas the Argentine side is all about getting up close and personal with the falls, on the Brazilian side you can benefit from full frontal and panoramic views of the cascades. Catch the bus from the Visitor Center to the Path of the Falls. The 1,200 meter trail brings you face-to-face with the 80 meter (262 feet) drop of Devil’s Throat. This is an ideal time for taking photos. There’s also a lift that presents an aerial view of Iguazú Falls in its entirety.

As on the Argentine side, you can bring a packed lunch or dine in the food court. Just beware of the groups of coati – a member of the racoon family – that will happily steal your food whilst you enjoy the views.

If you are still feeling energetic then the Poço Preto Trail is a 5.5 mile (9 kilometer) walk that leads through the forest to the riverbanks. Ask for a map at the Visitor Center. You can also join a Macuco Safari excursion, which range from boat rides and walks to rafting and fishing trips.

Helicopter flights over the park and falls depart from the Visitor Center. It might blow your budget and last for only 10 minutes but it might also be the most spectacular, or only, helicopter ride that you’ll ever make. Find more information on the Helisul website or ask at the tourist information desk.

This side of Iguazú Falls is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Check the official Cataratas do Iguacu website for admission fees.

The only hotel situated inside the Brazilian side of the fall is the Hotel dos Cataratas. Rooms are set in a colonial mansion and it is possible to see and hear the waterfalls from the restaurants and gardens. For all its beauty, this is not for the budget traveler.

Puerto Iguazú

Overshadowed by the nearby waterfalls, Puerto Iguazú is a quiet town situated about 11 miles (18 kilometers) from the falls. It is the main transport hub for visitors to Iguazú Falls. Buses from Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Corrientes and Santa Fe, among other destinations, arrive and depart at the town center bus station. For those not splashing out on a room inside the falls’ park, this is also where you’ll find a reasonable concentration of hotels and hostels.

The town itself is a neat collection of small streets that spread out from the main thoroughfare of Avenida Victoria Aguirre. To the north of town is the Rio Iguazú, which marks the Argentina-Brazil border, and to the west is the Rio Parana, which marks the Argentina-Paraguay border. At the confluence of the two rivers is the Hito Argentino (Avenida Tres Fronteras). It is worth visiting this monument to say that you have stood at the meeting point of three countries.

Should time allow outside of your visit to the waterfalls then there are a couple of interesting sights in Puerto Iguazú. Visit the Mborore Museum (corner of Avenida Brasil and Avenida Misiones) to find a collection of artifacts, including sculptures and coins, relating to the Guaraní Indians. Just southwest of the town center is Güira Oga (Ruta 12 Km 5), a wildlife refuge for rescued animals. Take a guided tour to learn about the rehabilitation of toucan, caiman and birds of prey as well as Capuchin monkeys.

After visiting Güira Oga, stop by the Plastic Bottle House (Ruta 12 Km 5), which is a house built using recycled materials. It is a short walk from La Aripuca (Ruta 12 Km 4.5), a house constructed from tree trunks. A small craft market takes place here every day.

You’ll find affordable accommodation within a few blocks of the bus station. As it’s hot, most places have swimming pools and provide transport to/from the falls. If there is no transport then simply catch a bus from the main station. Hostel Bambu Mini, Garden Stone and Timbo Posada are all hostels offering dorm rooms from around USD 15 (GBP 10) per night. For additional comfort try Boutique Hotel de la Fonte, Casa Yaguarete or Secret Garden Iguazú.

Outdoor Pursuits

Whilst Iguazú Falls takes top billing, the Misiones countryside surrounding Puerto Iguazú is ideal for outdoor activities. At La Aldea de la Selva Lodge you can tackle the Paseo Jungle (or Jungle Fly), a canopy and zip lining tour through the jungle. Meanwhile, Iguazú Forest organizes combined hiking and bird-spotting trips, and waterfall climbing excursions.

If you like to explore on horseback then Cabalgatas Ecologicas arranges three-hour guided rides that pass through the jungle. Similarly, Iguazú Bike Tours will take you deep into the Iryapu forest for wildlife spotting and the chance to learn about the Guaraní culture.

Further Afield 

Depending on your schedule, you might want to combine a visit to the falls with a trip to San Ignacio Miní. It is home to the ruins of a 17th century Jesuit mission. At its height it was one of the most prosperous missions of the Misiones province. San Ignacio is about 150 miles (243 kilometers) south of Puerto Iguazú. Buses traveling between Posadas and Puerto Iguazú stop on the outskirts of San Ignacio. Travel agencies in Puerto Iguazú operate tours to the ruins that often include a visit to the Wanda, a village famed for its precious gemstone mines.

The post Iguazú Falls, Argentina: The Ultimate Guide first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.

The other week I had the pleasure of attending Bröeders Beer Night at NOLA. NOLA, a closed door restaurant which serves Creole dishes, is the creation of Liza Puglia, a chef from New Orleans. NOLA has quickly become one of the most popular closed doors restaurants in Buenos Aires.

Recently, Liza has teamed up with Francisco & Marcelo Terren of Bröeders Artesanal Beer to create a special night every Thursday at NOLA which combines multiple beers tastings with a 3 course Southern dinner prepared by Liza.

Liza Puglia aka NOLAchef

Before getting into the details of Bröders Beer Night at NOLA, first some details on Bröeders Artesanal. What started out as some brewing experimentation in their mother’s kitchen a little over a year ago, brothers Francisco & Marcelo Terren now produce over 320 liters per month of Indian Pale Ales, Porter, Scottish Ale and Honey Beer in a makeshift brewery on the roof of the same home that houses NOLA. While their micro-brewery is no bigger than a large closet, I was extremely surprised by the high quality of their beers. As a two man team, the amount of dedication, love and commitment really shines through in the quality flavors of their beer.

Bröeders Beer Night

Situated in an ultra-hip home in Palermo Viejo, the night starts out with a welcome Indian Pale Ale Beer which is enjoyed with some chile and lime salted peanuts. The IPA is a great start to the night. It has a fruitiness to it and a great golden body. Ample time is provided to mingle with other guests before the brothers take the group upstairs to show off their micro-brewery. Interesting details are provided about the brewing process and any questions are answered. The upstairs of the house where the brewery is located is an amazing terrance, making for a great place to sip a quality beer on a nice night.

Little by little guests are seated in the dining area and the first course of the meal is served by Liza aka NOLAchef. The first dish was chicken wings covered in a Creole mustard, soy, & sesame sauce. These were delicious and by the end I was eating them with my hands (like chicken wings should be) even though my manners might of been a bit out of place. The chicken wings were served with a tasty Golden Ale . I continued to be surprised by the quality of beer especially after seeing the brother’s tiny brewery (it goes to show that fancy machines and a brewery designed for tours is not needed to produce high quality beer).

The next dish was a pulled pork sandwich on homemade brioche buns with slaw & pickled vegetables. This was possibly the best pork sandwich I have had in my life and I let Liza know. It was definitely unexpected and tasted even better being washed down by the next beer served, a Scottish Ale which had a great malty taste. When each beer is served, the Terren brothers give an explanation of the beer how it is made, its qualities and complexeties and alcohol content.

Pulled Pork Sammie, Amazing

Finally for dessert, a Lemon Pie with a honey peanut crust was served accompanied by a Honey beer.

The amount of beer served is just about right for the whole evening. Depending on the size and tolerance of a person, about 4 large draft beers over a couple hours should leave one feeling happy and merry. Personally I was hoping that there was going to be one more dish served before the dessert, but I realized that 3 dishes is just right for the amount of beer being served (I was also secretly hoping for fried chicken, which I had heard is served on select nights). After all the night is mainly about beer. Beer fills one up quite fast, so serving too much food would not leave any room for trying all the beers.

For fans of beer, Bröeders Beer Night at NOLA is not to be missed. There are not a lot of quality microbrews in Buenos Aires or Argentina in general, so it is great to see highly energetic, committed individuals dedicated to crafting the best beer possible. For a cherry on top, the food from NOLAchef to accompany the beer is top notch.

Brothers Francisco & Marcelo Terren of Bröeders Artesanal

Event Info

Bröeders Beer Night at NOLA

-every Thursday at 9:30, capacity 17 people

-communal and private tables available

-4 different BROEDERS Artesanal Cervezas are showcased each week, totaling 3 pints per person

-3 course dinner, rotates weekly depending on select beers

-reservation only, $200 pesos a person

– Location address is provided after reservation is made

-twitter- @BROEDERSba
-contact-  NOLAbuenosaires@gmail.com
-facebook-  https://www.facebook.com/BroedersBeerNight?fref=ts

The post Bröeders Beer Night at NOLA: Amazing Beer & Food in Buenos Aires first appeared on Gringo in Buenos Aires.