H-Town Chow Down | Houston | The Woodlands | Restaurant Blog

First Look at Uchi Houston

2012-01-30T22:08:00.000-06:00

Lately Houston has been the recipient of some notable Austin imports. On the moderate end, the insanely popular Torchy's Tacos opened their first Houston location to rave reports from diners. Today we were fortunate enough to take a look at an even more exciting Austin import.

Uchi, the modern Japanese restaurant building a national reputation for its innovative takes on sushi and other Japanese dishes, has opened a Houston outpost. Located in the old Felix Mexican Restaurant location on inner Westheimer, the team from Uchi has converted a revered house of Tex-Mex into a lovely and serene Japanese dining experience. How does the innovative cuisine of chef Tyson Cole survive the trip down Highway 290? We wanted to find out.

We were invited us to sample several of their dishes at a recent media dinner, and while this isn't a formal review, we wanted to share our impressions.

Approaching the building, we noticed how the new building doesn't eradicate the old architecture of Felix's, but rather pays homage to it. The iconic curved windows remain, and their shape is echoed in the striking new entryway. The result is urban and modern, but with respect for the past, a theme that was echoed throughout the evening.

Entering the restaurant, we were startled at the transformation. Gone was the Felix experience, and in its place was a stylishly rustic Japanese setting, with clever details everywhere we looked. One of our favorites was a large communal table, handmade in Austin and lovingly assembled.

With this much attention and respect paid to the setting, we couldn't wait to sample Tyson Cole's food. Before being served, we browsed the traditional preparation area, and took in the mouth-watering displays of fresh fish and other ingredients, all under the watchful eye of Uchi's kitchen staff.

Watching these masters wield their tako hiki and santoku was like watching surgeons at work. The speed and precision evident in their work was remarkable.

For this media dinner, small plates were passed by the attentive but unobtrusive staff, who were happy to answer any questions. Chef Cole circulated from time to time, delivering food himself and anxious to hear feedback from patrons.

First up was a cooked dish - bacon sen. Consisting of grilled pork belly, green onion, fish caramel, and bonito flakes, the result was a very restrained take on pork belly. Instead of the often overwhelming richness from this fatty cut of pork, the dish had a solid pork flavor, still rich but balanced by the sweetness of the caramel and the subtle crunch of the bonito flakes.

Next was our first bite of Chef Cole's sushi. Called machi cure, it begins with smoked baby yellowtail, presented on a small plank of edible yucca crisp, asian pear, marcona almond, and accented with garlic brittle. This dish was genius. The essence of the sea brought forth by the impeccably fresh yellowtail was firm without being chewy, and offset by the crunch of the yucca and the subtle snap of the almond. The flavors danced on the tongue - the rich tuna, the sharp garlic, the tang of the pear, the earthiness of the almond. The result was spectacular, and speaks to Cole's ability to balance flavor and texture while not compromising on the jewel-like presentation.

Another highlight was the playfully named Jar Jar Duck. Presented in a lever-sealed Mason jar, opening this clever package released a waft of rosemary-infused smoky duck essence. Digging into the jar revealed thinly sliced sweet kumquats, pickled endives, thinly sliced bits of roast duck, and crunchy duck cracklins. Again, the attention to detail is remarkable: The duck is layered so that the milder white meat is below the richer dark meat, so the heavy, flavorful juices marinate the breast meat. This dish evokes the cleverness of Grant Achatz at his best while leaving behind the fussiness that turns food into performance art. Again, it's about balance, and Tyson Cole pulls it off masterfully.

We sampled several other dishes that we thoroughly enjoyed, with interesting ingredients like flash-fried kale, toasted milk, and espelette, a mild French pepper not typically associated with Japanese cooking. This medling of ingredients brings a distinctively modern feel to Cole's Japanese cuisine. The respect for the past is evident, but the vision is through a distinctively modern lens. We're excited about Uchi, and we look forward to seeing what other delights Tyson Cole and his talented staff have in store.

Uchi | 904 Westheimer | Houston 77006 | 713-522-4808 | uchihouston.com

Win Dinner for Two at Chama Gaucha Brazilian Steakhouse

2012-01-18T16:22:00.005-06:00

Want to win Dinner for Two at Chama Gaucha, the hot Brazilian steakhouse on Westheimer? Simply "Like" H-Town Chow Down on Facebook, and add a comment to the Chauma Gaucha post.

We're giving away dinner for two to five lucky winners. No purchase necessary. Terms and conditions apply.

You can follow this link to Facebook to get started.

Top Ten Least Popular Family-Themed Restaurants

2012-01-03T12:39:00.001-06:00

For our first post of 2012, we turn to contributing editor Chuck Pena (@cpenahouston on Twitter) for his Top Ten Least Popular Family-Themed Restaurants:

10. Chucked-Up-Cheeses
09. Dead Robin
08. Golden Colonic
07. Chili's
06. Substandard
05. Whattamaggot
04. South of the Drug War
03. Joe's Crab Affliction
02. The Fruitcake Factory

And the number one least popular family themed restaurant:

01. Taco Cadaver

We can assure you that no reviews of them are forthcoming.

(Apologies to David Letterman, and anyone who has good taste.)

Quick Take: Brisket and Pulled Pork from Corkscrew BBQ

2011-12-30T20:05:00.003-06:00

We brought home brisket and pulled pork from Corkscrew BBQ tonight - first time I'd done carryout from them. Very well packaged, arrived in Indian Springs hot and moist. Loved that the pulled pork had its own vinegar-based sauce, a rarity in Texas. Brisket was superb as always.

Whataburger introduces Spicy Ketchup

2011-12-29T22:28:00.003-06:00

As Texans, we profess our love of Whataburger, the state's home-grown burger chain. Founded in 1950 by Harmon Dobson in Corpus Christi, Whataburger is known for its very good burgers, its fantastic customization options, and last but not least, it's delicious Fancy Ketchup.

But 2012 is a time of change (just ask the Mayans) and in honor of the end of the Long Count (ok, not really) Whataburger is introducing its new Spicy Ketchup. Taking the legendary sweet/savory combination of Fancy Ketchup one step further, Corpus Christi turns to the Valley to turn up the heat, adding real jalapeño pepper paste to their established formula.

We'll be waiting on January 2 to check out Spicy Ketchup for ourselves. (On the fries. Not on the burger.) Watch this space for an update. And if when you try it, let us know what you think.

Holiday Meals without the Work? Hubbell & Hudson's Holiday Catering

2011-12-20T00:02:00.001-06:00

What's the best part about this time of year? For us, it's a delicious holiday meal, enjoyed with family and friends. Wonderful food, great conversation, more food, relaxation. Well, relaxation for almost everyone. Not so relaxing for the home chef whose hard work makes the great meal take place: Creating a menu. Compiling recipes. Shopping for ingredients. Preparation. Hours of cooking. Collapsing in exhaustion while everyone eats. And the worst travesty of all: Not enough time to watch football.

Being a big fan of both great food and not working too hard, we were wondering if it is possible to use that 21st century concept of outsourcing to allow everyone to enjoy a relaxing holiday meal... even the home chef. A discussion about this very topic with a friend revealed two opinions: He was sure that no "take out" meal could compare to homemade, and I opined that a professional chef working in a commercial kitchen could prepare a meal that was easily superior to what even an advanced home chef could create.

Always up to a challenge, our friends at Hubbell & Hudson generously offered to send over one of their popular holiday dinners to see how it measured up to homemade. Since we're willing to make sacrifices and research this tasty quandry for our readers, we took 'em up on their offer and received two well-packed boxes filled with ready-to-heat components of a complete holiday meal for a big family.

Well packaged dishes

We opened the boxes, and found all of the courses expertly packed and in perfect condition. We followed the dead simple heating instructions (also available on the website if you misplace the included paper... don't ask me how I know this.) Once we were done, we spread them out and invited the assembled omnivores to dig in.

Hubbell & Hudson's Holiday Ho-Ka Turkey Dinner

First to be attacked were the side dishes. A container of whipped sweet potatoes was pure in its simplicity - we detected nothing other than sweet potatoes in the dish. I think this is a wise choice; you can complement it with caramel syrup and marshmallows if you want something extremely sweet, or with a simple bit of butter and nutmeg if you want something more savory.

Next up were the green beans. The fresh, lightly cooked beans were topped with sliced almonds and gently seasoned, and the result was light and refreshing. Our teenagers, not normally drawn to vegetables, made sure that we had no leftovers.

Green Beans that appealed to our teenagers. Remarkable.

No turkey dinner is complete without dressing, and here we found the only misstep. Hubbell & Hudson used sweet cornbread in its dressing, and we felt that the sweetness of the bread was slightly overpowering. A more neutral cornbread recipe would have resulted in a dish skewed more toward the savory, and that would have made us happier.

The centerpiece of the meal was the whole roasted turkey. A free-range, naturally brined Howard Kaufman Farms turkey is roasted in-house at Hubbel & Hudson after receiving a savory, herbal house rub. The result is a delightfully juicy bird that has a rich, savory flavor throughout. Dark meat was deliciously flavorful, and the white breast meat (often dry when you buy a turkey and prepare it at home) was moist, subtly herbal, and in short, delicious.

We can't eat turkey without cranberry sauce, and Hubbell's was remarkable. Whole cranberries are seasoned with plenty of rosemary and a hint of orange, and the sauce was actually more of a relish - one that was fruity, complex, and utterly captivating. We wouldn't hesitate to spread this on a cracker and enjoy it even without the turkey.

For dessert, two pies were included. First up is the classic Texas Pecan Pie. After sampling this pie, no one can call Hubbell & Hudson stingy with the pecans; the pie was chock full of huge pecan pieces, with only a tiny bit of the sweet syrupy binder that holds the pecans together. The result is a pie rich in the flavor of roasted pecans, and not overpoweringly sweet.

Pecan Pie

Next is the Hubbell & Hudson pumpkin pie. This rich, dense pie isn't your mother's pumpkin pie - the fresh pumpkin flavor is complemented by the complexity of significant spicy tones, most promiently ginger. Picking up a slice I was surprised by its weight - I can't ever remember seeing a more lush pumpkin pie.

Trying to fight off the impending coma caused by consuming this epic meal, I have to conclude that my original opinion was confirmed: The pros at Hubbell & Hudson could create something that I could never hope to duplicate on my own. It's going to be tough next year to hunt down all the ingredients, slave away over the hot stove for hours, and end up with a result that doesn't measure up to this meal.

On the other hand, I can always call Hubbell & Hudson next time. That would leave more time for watching football...

Hubbell & Hudson | Catering Information | 281-203-5600

Fine Tuning the Formula at Coal Burger

2011-12-03T13:52:00.001-06:00

We're fans of Coal Burger, the Arizona-based burger chain from the Grimaldi's Pizza folks. Their Woodlands Waterway location is the first store outside of Arizona, and we think they serve an excellent burger.

But we've heard reports of some less-than-spectacular burgers being served. The culprit is overcooked beef. But the mastermind behind Coal Burger, Chef Bradford Thompson, has devised a simple solution to the problem.

The original Coal Burger was architected around a quarter-pound patty. The half-pound burger was simply two of these patties, stacked up. The good news is that there is plenty of exposed surface to hold an aggressive char. The downside is that the interior of the burger gets hot quickly, and unless the cooking is perfectly timed, all the juices evaporate in the intense heat of the coal-fired oven (over 1000 degrees.) A juicy Coal Burger is a superlative burger, a dry one loses a good deal of its appeal. So how do you keep the patty from drying out as it cooks and develops that wonderful char?

The solution is an elegantly simple one: Enlarge the patty. The petite quarter-pound patty is now a thicker third-pound patty, and the larger mass of beef holds up better to the intense heat, holding in the juices with aplomb. Patrons preferring a larger burger now get their half-pound of beef in a single patty.

The new third-pound Coal Burger

After learning about this clever solution, we wanted to grab a table and sample the result. This led to discovering the other big change at Coal Burger - table service in the evenings. A hostess, plenty of waiters and tables dressed with silverware and cloth napkins contribute to the decidedly upscale atmosphere; the view overlooking the sparkling lights of Waterway Square completes the setting.

Table service at night, and a beautiful view

We found the idea of table service to be pretty unique for a burger joint, albeit a high-end one occupying prime real estate in the Woodlands. Coal Burger's staff made it work well; waiters are friendly, service is good, and the result makes for a great date night experience.

So how was the burger? In short, it's the bacon cheeseburger of backyard dreams, but now with a thicker, beefier, jucier patty. High quality cheese (American for us.) Thick cut, smoky bacon. Fresh veggies. And that's a win in my book.

We like the changes at Coal Burger, and applaud the attention of Chef Bradford and his staff to refining a great burger experience and making it even better.

Why Burgers Look Great in Commercials

2011-12-02T17:24:00.001-06:00

Have you ever wondered why the spectacularly lovely burger you see in a fast food commercial actually looks like a sad, dreary shadow of its buffed-up self when it is served to you?

Our friends at Snotr (we just link to 'em, we didn't name 'em) have an answer.

WARNING: Turn down the sound before you press play. This video is LOUD.

Hubbell & Hudson's Wagyu Burger

2011-11-30T12:01:00.001-06:00

One of this burger lover's saddest days of 2010 was the day that Tesar's Modern Steakhouse closed in the Woodlands. Tesar's Magic burger had become the thing of local legend; to this day I've been searching for a burger that comes close to that remarkable creation.

But good things have followed for those involved with Tesar's. Chef Jeromy Robison landed the exec spot at La Colombe d'Or's popular new CINQ restaurant, and has been on everyone's short list of talented young chefs.

The other member of the dynamic duo, Chef Austin Simmons, was recently promoted to Executive Chef at Hubbel & Hudson, the hot gourmet market and bistro in the Woodlands. Austin and I talked burgers on numerous occasions at Tesar's, and I was excited to see how he'd influence the already excellent burgers at H & H.

So I was pleasantly surprised not only to learn of Chef Austin's promotion, but to be invited to sample some of his new dishes on the winter Hubbell & Hudson menu. And I was hoping a burger would be one of the offerings.

After rolling out several new dishes (which will be written about soon) a burger appeared.

Wagyu Burger at Hubbell & Hudson

I smiled when I noticed that instead of one of H & H's excellent buns, Chef Austin had selected an English Muffin as the foundation for his burger. The half-pound patty was hand-formed Wagyu beef, from an American breed of cattle that produces Kobe beef in Japan. Instead of bacon, crispy prosciutto di Parma was artfully arranged. Fresh arugula and a unique tomato remoulade were piled atop a sunny-side-up egg. No ordinary condiments were to be found. These prime ingredients do not result in a bargain burger - served with the excellent house cut double dip frites, the cost of the burger is $25, not an insubstantial sum.

(I hate to second-guess a chef, but I'm not an egg-on-a-burger guy. When I mentioned this, the burger was whisked into the kitchen, and reemerged in short order without the egg.)

I bit into the burger, and it was a revelation. Front and center was the lush, beefy flavor. The wagyu had been expertly ground; so many times super premium beef doesn't stand up well to grinding, but in this case it had been handled expertly and cooked to a perfect medium rare. The juicy ooze was in full force; this was a rare case where wagyu beef delivered fully on its promise.

The tang of the tomato chutney was a delicious counterpoint to the swaggeringly rich beefy flavor, and this is coming from someone who typically doesn't like tomatoes on a burger. The smooth, almost sweet flavor of the cured prosciutto provided balance, and the subtle crunch added textural interest.

This could very well be the best burger I've ever tasted.

Chef Austin is still fine tuning the burger. He's contemplating a version replacing the egg with one of Hubbell & Hudson's artisan cheeses.

I shudder to think about the difficulty in resisting the result.

Hubbell & Hudson Bistro | 24 Waterway Ave, Suite 125 | The Woodlands, Texas 77380
281-203-5641 | hubbellandhudson.com

Great deal at El Real - for selected people

2011-11-28T18:13:00.001-06:00

I just saw a very curious tweet from El Real Tex-Mex, the hot new Montrose-area restaurant:

@ElRealTexMex tweets:
"Come one, come all. Montrosians eat half-priced with TDL @elrealtexmex for Montrose Mondays!"

While I applaud the idea of a great deal on a slow night, I'm more than a little put off by the exclusionary nature of the offer. If you don't live in the right neighborhood, you don't get the deal.

To me, this smacks of the worst sort of price discrimination. If you aren't fortunate enough to live in the right upscale neighborhood, you pay a higher price on Monday nights.

Folks who don't live in Montrose: How do you feel about this sort of offer, where you're excluded because you live in the wrong zip code?

How to Carve a Thanksgiving Turkey

2011-11-22T11:14:00.001-06:00

It's a nightmare scenario:

Family and friends gathered around the festive Thanksgiving table. An assortment of dishes heaping with delicious side dishes. The golden turkey appears atop its platter, steaming hot, filling the room with the rich aroma of Thanksgiving.

Then you get a cold chill up your spine as you are handed the carving tools, and asked to "Do the Honors".

It doesn't matter whether the meal was prepared at home, or whether you enlisted the help of a professional kitchen - once the bird is on your table, someone has to do the carving.

Fear not, loyal H-Town Chow Down fans. We've brought you instructions on how to properly carve that ominous Thanksgiving turkey. Special thanks to our friends at the Food Network who created this video.

Last Minute Ideas for a Great Thanksgiving

2011-11-21T14:36:00.001-06:00

Thanksgiving is this week, and I'll bet that many of our readers have yet to finalize their plans for the traditional holiday meal. While we're fans of a home-cooked extravaganza, we realize that busy schedules often make this impossible. Heck, out here in the Woodlands, football playoffs have resulted in practice on Thanksgiving Day, further complicating plans.

Our solution? Let a pro take care of the food. We've complied a list of Houston-area spots that are on call to take the fuss out of Thanksgiving dinner, delivering great results without breaking the bank.

Hubbell & Hudson's Ho-Ka Roasted Turkey Dinner

Hubbell & Hudson

First up is Hubbell & Hudson, the Woodlands' own epicurean market and bistro. Under new executive chef Austin Simmons, Hubbel & Hudson is offering a full slate of Holiday offerings. Chef Austin is particularly proud of the Ho-Ka House Roasted Turkey Dinner, featuring a free-range, all-natural brined turkey, madeira giblet gravy, housemade side dishes and one of the superb Hubbell & Hudson pies to top it off. $199, feeds six to eight. 281-203-5600

HEB Central Market

Folks inside the loop might scoff at driving to the Woodlands, so we contacted HEB Central Market to peruse their offerings. We were impressed by their Naturally Gluten-Free Turkey Dinner, featuring a free-range oven-roasted turkey, gluten-free gravy, rustic Italian gluten-free rolls, and traditional sides, all gluten free. $140, feeds six to eight. 713-386-1700

Kenny & Ziggy's

A New York-style deli isn't an obvious choice for Thanksgiving, but Ziggy Gruber's crew has put together a nice lineup of traditional and unexpected dishes that will make your meal memorable. Their 20 lb whole roasted turkey, chestnut stuffing, and homemade gravy is the traditionalist's choice, but we suggest moving outside the expected with the superb glazed corn beef. $ Prices vary. 713-871-8883

Corkscrew BBQ - A BBQ Truck in The Woodlands ?!?

2011-11-15T17:48:00.001-06:00

As the Woodlands has grown, we've seen explosive growth in the local restaurant market. Newcomers open every month, anxious to tap into the thriving economy by feeding hungry residents. Some succeed. Some fail. But all help the dining scene change and evolve into something more interesting.

Once thing we've bemoaned repeatedly is the lack of good BBQ in the Woodlands. While there are a smattering of BBQ joints, we've yet to run across a place that serves the kind of 'Q that we crave. Heck, most of the time when we're in the mood for BBQ, we hike down I-45 to Louetta and give Rudy's, the San Antonio import, our business.

So we were excited to hear from one of our Twitter followers about a new BBQ place opening up off Sawdust road. Called Corkscrew BBQ, it is an oversized BBQ truck/trailer semi-permanently located on Budde road, half a block south of Sawdust. Painted black with a bright pink roof, you won't miss the trailer when you drive down Budde Road, perhaps on the way to an Orwall little league game.

The Corkscrew BBQ Truck

Corkscrew BBQ is new to the Woodlands, but the people behind it are not new to BBQ. Will and Nichole Buckman are the owners, and they have operated a successful catering business on the north side for years. Corkscrew BBQ is the result of their desire to serve a bigger market on a daily basis, applying their hard-won expertise in the catering field.

So how is the BBQ? As every real Texan knows, BBQ is all about slow-cooking meat with plenty of honest-to-Robb wood smoke. Corkscrew's wood of choice is oak, and they use plenty of it.

Native Texas Oak is the source of fire and smoke in Corkscrew BBQ's pit

Unlike many urban BBQ places, Corkscrew's pit runs exclusively on wood - there's no gas involved at all. Oak was selected because it's a fairly hot-burning wood, and Will Buckman prefers not to overpower the flavor of the meat with the flavor of smoke, and a hotter fire shifts the balance in favor of the meat flavor.

The pit itself is a good-sized rotary shelf unit, with individual meats wrapped in foil to retain their juices.

The pit at Corkscrew BBQ

Corkscrew smokes the traditional brisket, ribs and sausage, and also plans to go beyond the standards with occasional daily specials. On our first visit, we were in a bit of a hurry, and sampled only the chopped beef sandwich.

Chopped Beef at Corkscrew BBQ

Chopped beef can tell you a lot about the philosophy of a BBQ joint. Some places use the least desirable scraps, hiding the poor quality behind too much strong sauce. Corkscrew's approach is one we prefer: Freshly chopped brisket, mixed with just enough sauce, topped with veggies. Crunchy sliced onions and pickles (and jalapeños, if you'd like) complete the sandwich, and we liked the not-overly-sweet tang of the housemade sauce.

We returned two days later, and talked with Will Buckman about how their first weekend went. They were very busy - apparently we weren't the only ones in the Woodlands who were hungry for a new BBQ spot. Will insisted that we try his brisket, and hauled out a slab.

Brisket at Corkscrew BBQ

The brisket had a beautiful dark bark, and the grit of the house rub was plainly visible. A cut revealed a quarter-inch smoke ring in a nice, dark pink.

He sliced off a sample (an outside cut from the fatty end) and we dug in. The smoky flavor was subtle, but certainly present. We've had BBQ where the smoke totally overpowered the flavor of the beef, but that wasn't a problem at Corkscrew. The 'Q was slightly drier than we prefer, but a dash of the tangy housemade sauce addressed that problem, and added a nice bite to the flavor.

Brisket at Corkscrew BBQ

Bottom line: Corkscrew's brisket is easily among the best to be had in the Woodlands.

Will had an enigmatic smile on his face, and handed me a small container. "It's our cobbler. Today's is apple." Never being one to insult a man with a hot pit and sharp knives, I opened the container and sampled the warm cobbler.

Apple Cobbler at Corkscrew BBQ

Corkscrew's cobbler is superb. A soft, flaky, buttery crust balanced with the zest of the spicy apples, sweet but not cloyingly so. We're anxious to return and sample the other cobblers, including peach and seasonal berries.

The Woodlands has been in need of a serious BBQ joint ever since I've moved here, and Corkscrew BBQ is already filling that void. Between the tasty brisket and superb cobbler, we'll be back, and often. If you love BBQ, you will, too.

Corkscrew BBQ | Budde Road just south of Sawdust | The Woodlands, TX 77380
832-592-1184 | www.CorkscrewBBQ.com | Twitter: @CorkscrewBBQ

Texas Tamale Co Delivers Tamales and More

2011-11-08T21:15:00.001-06:00

Recently, Marco Torres, a photographer for the Houston Press, announced that he was going to attempt to go a month without eating Mexican food. We'd rather not even think about this, because Houston is home to some of the country's best Mexican food, and it makes up a regular part of our diet. Folks in other parts of the nation aren't so lucky, having to make do with the offerings of national chains such as Taco Bell.

We'd been hearing good things about Texas Tamale Company, a Houston-based group that will make and send fresh tamales straight to your door, so we were excited when we were contacted by representatives of the company who generously dropped off a cooler full of their offerings for us to sample. Is this the Mexican food solution for folks stuck far from Texas? We were looking forward to finding out.

Our care package arrived before lunchtime, so the first order of business was to sample the breakfast tacos that they had included in our sampler.

Breakfast Tacos from Texas Tamale Co.

Included were a variety of tacos: Egg and potato, egg and chorizo, egg and ham, and our favorite, the egg and bacon. The generous portion of scrambled egg and smoky thick cut bacon chunks was cradled on a fluffy, slightly chewy homemade tortilla - a tortilla we really like. We enjoyed the breakfast tacos, and within a few minutes all that remained were the foil wrappers in which they arrived.

Later it was time to sample the tamales. We heated up samples of their beef, chicken and the unusual spinach tamales, and plated them with the refried beans and spanish rice that TTC had included in our care package.

Tamales from Texas Tamale Co.

We started with the chicken tamale, which was very mild. The chicken flavor was present, but unfortunately so were a few quarter-sized chicken bones. Even without the bones these were our least-favorite tamales.

Next up were the beef tamales. The fat content of the beef created a rich, smooth texture, offsetting the coarseness of the masa, and generating the characteristic sheen seen on fresh tamales when you remove them from the husks. These tamales had a bit more bite, but it was more savory and spicy as opposed to any actual heat. Those who wish a more caliente experience could certainly add some salsa or hot sauce, but we found these tamales to be very good.

Our favorites were a big surprise. We'd never heard of spinach tamales before, but when we bit into one we were hooked. Dense, herbal notes that really didn't scream spinach was our first take, and the counterpoint of this rich flavor and a light texture made this a delightful change from an ordinary tamale. We'd order these again in a heartbeat.

According to the company, all these tamales are gluten-free.

Texas Tamale Company also offers their own special beef and pork sausage, chili, queso, and a variety of salsas, jellies, and mixers that can be delivered right alongside their homemade tamales. This would make a great holiday gift for anyone unfortunate enough to be away from Texas for the holidays.

For those in Houston, "The Mexican Deli" is on Fountainview near the Galleria, serving tamales, fajitas, tacos, and a variety of other Mexican favorites. Stop by for lunch, and you can take gift packs home with you.

Texas Tamale Company | 3340 Fountainview | Houston Texas 77057 | 800-T-TAMALE

www.TexasTamale.com

Does Wendy's Deliver? We Review Dave's Hot 'n Juicy Cheeseburger

2011-09-27T21:41:00.004-05:00

As a high school student, one of my favorite hamburgers was a Wendy's double. From the iconic square patty to the much-better-than-McD's toppings, Dave Thomas's chain served the first burger that caught my attention. But over the years new competitors appeared on the scenes, and Wendy's never really made improvements. The awesome burger of my youth became one I would only order in an emergency.

But now there's something different. Wendy's is upping their game.

Called "Dave's Hot 'n Juicy Cheeseburger", it is the first upgrade to Wendy's hamburger offerings in several decades. From thicker patties to better quality toppings to a new toasted, buttered bun, Wendy's has responded to both the Better Burger competitors like Five Guys and SmashBurger, and to the higher-end burgers rolled out by McDonalds. The advertising photos look very promising.

Dave's Hot 'n Juicy Cheeseburger - The Promise

I was anxiously anticipating sampling this big deal that Wendy's just released, so I stopped by a local Woodlands-area Wendy's to see whether it lives up to the hype. I was immediately put off by the rather dated look of the store - other than new signage, this restaurant could be a Wendy's from 1990. But I'm here for the food, not the atmosphere, so I ordered my benchmark double, and waited for its appearance.

What greeted me on the tray was this:

Dave's Hot 'n Juicy Cheeseburger - The Reality

The new Wendy's "masterpiece" was visually unimpressive. The machine-formed patties were slightly thicker than I remembered, but they were extremely dry and totally ooze free. My guess is that the patties were cooked a while ago, and had been sitting under a not-too-effective heat lamp. So much for the "juicy". And the patties weren't warm enough to melt the cheese. So much for the "hot". The vegetables were of higher quality than I remembered, but the bun was impressive in its ordinariness - Wendy's has offered better buns in the past.

And the flavor was... bland. It was a generic mass-market, fast food burger, with slightly fresher veggies on top. This is what Wendy's is excited about?

I was completely underwhelmed with Dave's Hot 'n Juicy Cheeseburger. It was neither hot nor juicy. It didn't approach the quality of the newest McDonald's offerings, much less that of fast food burgers from What-a-burger or Culver's. To compare it to Five Guys or SmashBurger would be ludicrous.

I admire the intentions behind Dave's Hot 'n Juicy Cheeseburger. But intentions alone do not make a great hamburger, or in this case, even a good one.

Back to the drawing board, Wendy.

Where to Eat Now in The Woodlands

2011-09-21T15:16:00.000-05:00

Updated Nov 30, 2011

The dining scene in the Woodlands is never still. Restaurants open and close on a regular basis as they try to find the perfect balance of food, service, and atmosphere that will keep notoriously fickle Woodlands patrons coming back.

The Woodlands Market Street (photo credit: The Woodlands Development Co.)

Most suburbs have the reputation of being filled with chain restaurants, and the Woodlands certainly has its share. But the Woodlands has also attracted more than its share of independent restaurants. We don't discriminate - we enjoy good food no matter who owns the kitchen.

Here are the best restaurants in The Woodlands right now (May 2011). In alphabetical order:

The Black Walnut - This locally grown casual cafe has toned down the quirky factor, but it's still like going to a restaurant that's run by your crazy cousin Louie... if Louie could cook. Breakfasts are very good here, as are the unique sandwiches and salads. And be sure to save room for dessert; seasonal gelato offerings are rich and enticing.

Capri - The secret is out about this small, family-run Italian cafe. Barbara Coglianese's kitchen turns out exquisitely handcrafted pastas, and entrees, both featuring sauces made from family recipes brought over from Bologna. An enthusiastic cadre of very happy regulars calls Capri the best Italian spot in the Woodlands, and one of the best in the Houston area. This isn't the Olive Garden; it's more a place for foodies in search of authentic, handmade cuisine than for those wanting overly Americanized versions of Italian classics.

Capri

Chuy's - The Woodlands is home to plenty of UT alums, and when they want Mexican food, they often choose to visit this Austin export. You'll find offbeat wait staff, Mexican food that trends as much toward New Mex-Mex as Tex-Mex, and some of the best margaritas anywhere. Texas Exes will insist on asking for the complimentary creamy jalapeno sauce alongside the light, citrusy salsa.

Chuy's in the Woodlands

Crust Pizza - This new locally-run pizza parlor has been garnering great reviews from everyone who's tried it. The owners are on-site, the pizza dough is handmade and never even refrigerated, and the creative toppings give pizza aficionados reason to order outside their comfort zones. We're usually pepperoni traditionalists, but the jerk chicken pizza is something we can't stop ordering. Crust has proven to us that great pizza isn't about a special oven, it's about massaging all the variables until the result speaks for itself.

Jerk chicken pizza at Crust Pizza

Corkscrew BBQ - This new Woodlands food truck is backed by an experienced BBQ team, and the results speak for themselves. Delicious brisket, buzzworthy pulled pork, and perhaps the best cobbler we've tasted in years. Daily specials, too.

Brisket at Corkscrew BBQ

Eden Cafe - Located in Egypt (literally, it's the name of the area just behind the northwest border of the Woodlands) this family-run cafe surprised and impressed us with its well edited menu and daily specials. The talented kitchen turns out excellent work in a variety of cuisines (we're particularly fond of their chicken entrees), but their Cuban dishes stand out among the best in the Houston area.

The Goose's Acre - This pub, located on the Woodlands Waterway, features a beautiful deck perfect for al fresco dining on the water. The kitchen turns out considerably better-than-average pub food; can't miss items include the half-pound burgers, creative salads, and well executed pub favorites. A spirited weekend crowd keeps the parting going.

Grimaldi's - The second Houston-area outpost of this iconic Brooklyn pizzaria calls the Woodlands Waterway its home, and locals are raving about the coal-fired NY-style pizzas. We're fans of the savory Italian sausage, rich with fennel.

New York-style pizza at Grimaldi's

Hubbell & Hudson Bistro - This upscale American bistro is attached to the Woodlands' largest gourmet market, guaranteeing access to some amazing ingredients. And Executive Chef Austin Simmons makes the best of them, turning out impressive seafood dishes, entree salads, and a variety of design-your-own steak dishes designed to please the pickiest Texan. He's even added an epic Wagyu Burger to the menu, and it blew us away.

Wagyu Burger at Hubbell & Hudson

Hubble & Hudson Kitchen - The more casual cousin to Hubble & Hudson has been packing them in since the day they opened. Patrons wait in line to order superb burgers and outstanding sandwiches, and the brunch offerings on weekends are among the best in the Houston area. Thank goodness for the outdoor patio, because the dining room can be packed during peak hours. Hubble & Hudson Kitchen combines perhaps the best fast casual concept we've experienced with a small gourmet market, giving home cooks the perfect place to stop for ingredients, inspiration, and a delicious quick meal.

Burger at Hubble & Hudson Kitchen

Jasper's - Upscale backyard cuisine is how this Dallas export describes its fare, and we think that fits it to a T. This is Texas cuisine as imagined by Kent Rathbun, an Iron Chef contestant who's known for his innovative takes on hearty food. Great bets include the prime steaks, excellent pork loin, and half-pound burgers. We're always impressed with the care that goes into the excellent side dishes, and their desserts are some of the best in the Woodlands. But you simply cannot miss the housemade potato chips with Maytag bleu cheese. Addictive.

Maytag bleu cheese-topped potato chips at Jasper's

The Olive Oil - Suburbs aren't know for their ethnic food, so we were pleasantly surprised to find an excellent Greek restaurant in a nondescript strip center location along Sawdust road. All the Greek standards are well represented on the menu; the gyro is one of the best we've enjoyed anywhere. The restaurant turns into a party on weekend evenings, with belly dancers, Greek dancers, and live music, so be sure to make a reservation to guarantee a table with a view of the festivities.

Perry's Steakhouse - There are plenty of steakhouses in the Woodlands, but Perry's stands apart for three reasons. First, it's located away from the "downtown" area, making parking a breeze. Second, it's a local business, albeit one with several locations. And most importantly, the grilled meats are very satisfying, and handled with an expert touch. Those in the know go for the absurdly thick pork chop, which is perfectly prepared and rubbed with seasonings that really bring out the flavor.

Rico's - Tex-Mex in the Woodlands is popular, and it seems that every second Tex-Mex place is now a Rico's. This local empire has been growing rapidly thanks to its deft handling of traditional Tex-Mex favorites. The fajitas are very good and offered with some tasty embellishments (melted oxaca cheese and chunky bacon are our pick) and the margaritas are strong and tasty.

Schilleci's - The Houston area has become the home to many New Orleans expatriates, and the Woodlands is lucky to be the new home of the Schilleci family's eponymous restaurant. This New Orleans-style restaurant serves up outstanding etoufee and gumbo, and the authentic po boys are as good as you'll find outside of the Crescent City. The secret? The Schillecis import bread from New Orleans for that authentic chewy crunch.

Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen

There you have it. Our favorite places to eat in the Woodlands. If we've missed yours, tell us about it in the comments.

What kind of pasta is that?

2011-09-12T16:19:00.000-05:00

If you have trouble identifying a specific pasta, our friends at CharmingItaly.com have a handy guide that will help identify it for you. (You can click on the image to zoom in)

What kind of pasta is on your plate? by Charming Italy

Cadillac Culinary Challenge this weekend at the Galleria

2011-09-09T16:26:00.000-05:00

Houston foodies, you won't want to miss this event. Cadillac is presenting its culinary challenge event this weekend (Sept 10-11) at the Galleria. Events each day are at 11:30am, 2pm, and 4pm.

Chef Geoffrey Zakarian of The Lambs Club will be competing against Houston's chef Karl Benko, of Del Frisco's steakhouse. In addition Cadillac's line of vehicles will be on hand for comparison with BMW, Lexus and Mercedes - test drives will be available.

If you're into fine food or fine automobiles, it promises to be a great event. I'll be judging the culinary challenge Saturday at 2pm - all H-Town Chow Down readers are encouraged to drop by and say hello.

For more information, check out the website, or the Facebook page.

Soft Opening of The Counter in the Woodlands

2011-08-22T21:32:00.003-05:00

The Counter is a left-coast burger chain that specializes in offering the customer a chance to create his own custom-built burger. While many restaurants will let you customize a burger, the array of options at The Counter is truly staggering - there are 20 different sauces, and a dozen cheese options, for example. If you like to create your own signature burger, you won't be lacking for options at The Counter.

We were excited to hear that The Counter was opening in the Woodlands, on Market Street. We received an invitation to the soft opening, and trekked "downtown" to check out what The Counter had brought to the community.

When we pulled up to the new Market Street store (located on the west end of Market Street, across from the Avia Hotel) we weren't surprised to see a lot of folks milling around. The place was packed with patrons for this invitation-only event. We overheard the harried hostess turning away those without invitations - they'll be invited back tomorrow, when the store officially opens.

The interior of The Counter is bright and airy. A bar (!) occupies a prominent position to the left of the room, serving beer and wine. Local photography decorates the walls, and the total effect certainly fits in to the Woodlands -- it is far less jarring than the faux-50's decor that the late-and-not-lamented Johnny Rockets brought to Market Street. All in all, a very pleasant setting.

We were seated fairly promptly, and placed our order. Between the soft opening and the packed house, we didn't expect our food to come out quickly... and we weren't surprised. But after a bit of a wait, the first to come out was the "Fifty-Fifty", in this case, half sweet potato fries and half parmesan fries.

The parmesan fries were covered with parmesan, rosemary, and garlic aoili. We didn't think the garlic aoili added to the dish - it tasted like weak mayonaise, and caused the melted cheese to slip off of the fries, leaving only the mayonaise-y flavor. The sweet potato fries were fine (if generic) and served with a horseradish mayonaise dipping sauce... not the first choice we'd have for sweet potato fries. Apparently someone at The Counter really likes the flavor of mayonaise.

After a bit more time, the burgers arrived. I ordered a third-pound (after cooking weight) burger with Gruyere cheese, grilled onions, and their lettuce blend, on an English muffin. (The late, lamented, Tesar's taught me the magic of the English muffin for the foundation of a burger, so I was pleased to see it offered as an option.) I had high hopes.

What arrived was... interesting. First, there were a LOT of onions. Easily 4x what would have been a generous helping. After removing the lion's share of the onions, I assembled the burger and bit in. The overwhelming sensation was odd. Front and center was the onion flavor, but these weren't any onions I'd tasted before on a burger. I don't know the variety, but the flavor profile was very different than a typical burger onion. The consistency was wet and slippery, and they tended to slide out of the bun. The beefy flavor was completely absent, so to remedy this, I removed even more onions, leaving only one or two slices, which was still enough. Finally I could taste the beef, and it was very mild and underseasoned, albeit extremely tender. The gruyere was lost in the mix as well. Perhaps this was just opening-night jitters, but the grill cook should consider visiting Samba Grille or The Burger Guys to learn how to season a hamburger patty. Without skilled seasoning, even the best meat won't shine.

I think that The Counter has an excellent concept, but some fine tuning is needed to the product's flavor. Perhaps the California palate is different from that of a Houstonian, but now I understand why The Counter has been getting mixed reviews. The burger is simply unlike any other premium burger I've experienced in Houston, and to my taste, not in a good way.

But if you've been searching for the burger of your dreams, and you've yet to come close, give The Counter a try. I have no doubt that they'll surprise you. Whether it's in a good way depends on you.

The Counter | Market Street | The Woodlands, Texas 77380 | 281-231-2147

Food for Thought: Malcolm Gladwell on Spaghetti Sauce

2011-07-22T16:59:00.001-05:00

Tipping Point author Malcolm Gladwell gets inside the food industry's pursuit of the perfect spaghetti sauce -- and makes a larger argument about the nature of choice and happiness.

Discovering the Secret Behind Coal Burger

2011-07-21T16:50:00.009-05:00

I returned to Coal Burger on Thursday. After eating a superlative burger, I was eager to sample more from the menu. Unfortunately they were closed; problems with the ventilation system meant that the restaurant was too smoky when the coal-fired oven was operating.

But I did have the pleasure of meeting more of the people behind the restaurant, including one big surprise that explained a lot of things.

Chef Bradford Thompson is the corporate chef at the Grimaldi's organization, working behind the scenes on the food at Coal Burger.

Chef Bradford Thompson
(Photo courtesy Culinary Vegetable Institute)

Chef Thompson is the James Beard Award-winning chef who has numerous other accolades to his credit, including a AAA Five Diamond Award (at Mary Elaine's in Scottsdale), A Wine Spectator Grand Award, and multiple recognitions by Food and Wine Magazine.

Thompson also worked with the legendary Chef Daniel Boulud in Manhattan, helping plan and develop both Cafe Boulud and DB Bistro Moderne. Chef Thompson also was in charge of private dining at New York's famed Restaurant Daniel.

What is a chef of this stature doing working for a small burger chain? Developing the menu. I spoke with Chef Thompson about his participation, and his enthusiasm was palpable. Here is a man who has built a superb French kitchen in Manhattan, but he is pouring his heart into creating a superlative burger concept, one that can both deliver a $4 burger and be run in a socially responsible manner.

Listening to the chef talk about why the burger was designed as it was, and the other myriad decisions that went into creating Coal Burger was like taking a master class in designing a burger joint. Clearly, Chef Thompson knows his burgers, and those of us who eat at Coal Burger are the happy beneficiaries of his knowledge and skill.

The chef spoke in detail about why the burger features quarter-pound patties instead of the larger ones favored by many steak houses. (It's all about the multiple layers of char.) He detailed the benefits of Niman Ranch beef and the other ingredients he selected. He even talked about the decision to make Coal Burger an environmentally conscious restaurant, but not to overwhelm the customer with a "green" message.

Clearly, the vision of a world-class chef has resulted in a very impressive product. But his knowledge of the entire restaurant business is shaping Coal Burger to be considerably different than its competitors in the burger arena. His culinary knowledge is a formidable secret weapon.

Unfortunately, Chef Thompson isn't going to be overseeing the Woodlands Coal Burger on a daily basis. He'll be back in Manhattan, at the helm of his West Village Jamaican restaurant, Miss Lily's Favourite Cakes, and no doubt continuing his contributions to Food and Wine, Gourmet, Art Culinare, and the New York Times.

First Look Review - Coal Burger in the Woodlands

2011-07-19T14:22:00.005-05:00

We're always skeptical when a successful restaurant group branches out into a new type of restaurant. Too often we've seen incredibly successful organizations stumble when they try to translate their successful formula to an entirely different cuisine.

So we greeted the news of Coal Burger with a good deal of skepticism. This small restaurant chain (the Woodlands location is their third store, and their first outside of Arizona) is owned by the same group as Grimaldi's Pizza, the iconic Brooklyn pizza joint that has branched out into locations all over the nation (and not coincidentally, right next door to Coal Burger.) Would success in the pizza field translate into the highly competitive burger arena?

Half-pound Coal Burger, with cheese and bacon

We aren't sure. But we love a good burger, and have a great deal of respect for the Grimaldi's organization, so we visited Coal Burger today, on its opening day, to see just what they are all about. It was a rainy Tuesday, so we headed down to Waterway Square in the Woodlands, and managed to snag a nearby parking spot. We zipped through a building to avoid the rain, and came out across the street from the Coal Burger location. There is no sign, but it is located on the back side of the same building that houses Grimaldi's.

Coal Burger in the Woodlands. That's the entrance at the right

We crossed the street and entered the bright, airy restaurant. We saw plenty of green-shirted staff members being trained on opening day. Everyone was bright and friendly, and we learned quite a bit about the philosophy behind Coal Burger before we even ordered.

Coal Burger isn't an ordinary burger joint. There is a great focus on sustainable, high quality, healthy ingredients. The organization is green, but it's not pushed in the customer's face as a self-conscious selling point. We noticed that the disposable drink containers were compostable, the ingredients are from responsible sources like Niman Ranch, and little touches like LED light fixtures point to a thoughtful focus on the environment. We applaud this approach.

Orders are placed at the counter, so we walked up and gave them ours.

The woman at the counter was very friendly, and in short order we were headed to the table to await our Coal Burgers. On the way we grabbed a soda - no Coca-Cola or Pepsi products here, but rather a selection of Boylan sodas, all sweetened with real cane sugar. So we had to skip our beloved Dr Pepper, and instead chose Boylan Ginger Ale. A sip confirmed that real ginger is a prominent ingredient in this beverage.

After a short wait, the burger appeared, wrapped neatly in paper. Ours was a half-pound of all-natural Niman Ranch Beef, hand-formed into two patties, topped with American cheese, beautiful thick-cut bacon, shredded lettuce, and crisp sliced pickles. Only the bun seemed pedestrian, but we later learned that a Brioche bun is available upon request.

A half-pound burger at Coal Burger

Biting into this tall, narrow burger was delightful. The first sensation was the crispness of the sliced pickles, which was quickly followed by a rich, charry, beefy burst of flavor. Following the Grimaldi's tradition, the burger patties are grilled in a coal-fired oven.

Coal Burger's coal-fired oven

This magical device imparts a delightful char to the high quality beef. And it does so quickly, leaving a nice juicy ooze and a pinkish center to contrast to the dark brown exterior char.

The American cheese we selected was thickly sliced and high quality. The bacon had a slightly sweet, smoky bite. The result was a superb rendition of a backyard burger, typically grilled over charcoal. But this one was grilled over real coal, and the result was how one would dream a backyard burger would taste - no home cooked burger we've sampled has sported such an aggressive char and rich, complex flavor.

We realize that it's unfair to judge a restaurant on its opening day, but we were very impressed by the burger at Coal Burger. We were also happy to talk with Darien, the manager, and to see that he and his staff are very interested in feedback and focused on making the Coal Burger experience a good one.

We'll be back. Soon.

UPDATE: We learn the secret behind Coal Burger

Coal Burger | 20 Waterway Ave | The Woodlands, TX 77380 | 281-292-6385
coalburger.com

Summer Surprise in Spring - Alicia's Mexican Grille

2011-07-15T14:00:00.002-05:00

The Woodlands area is not lacking for choices when you're in the mood for Tex-Mex. From Chuy's to Los Cucos to the Rico's empire, there's a Tex-Mex spot on just about any corner.

So you can imagine my indifference when I learned that the large restaurant being built at the intersection of 2920 and Kuykendahl was going to be another Tex-Mex spot. I enjoy the cuisine, but feel that the area would be better served by just about any other type of restaurant.

Nevertheless, a recent weekend found us shopping at Lowe's (across the big parking lot) and hungry. Alicia's building was inviting, so we walked over and entered.

We were immediately impressed by the beautiful setting and attractive decor. The proprietor had clearly invested some money in his new establishment, and the result was impressive. Dining areas were in different rooms (we tire of the single, huge cavern that seems to be popular with many restaurant designers) and an inviting bar was off to the side.

One of the dining rooms at Alicias (Unused at the time)

We were led to our table, and fresh housemade chips and salsa were quickly brought. Chips and salsa are one's first impression of a Tex-Mex spot's cuisine, and we think they're very important. Alicia's did not disappoint - the chips were thin and crisp, glowing with a thin sheen of oil that didn't result in a heavy taste. The salsa was light, fresh, and had the bite of citrus, an excellent choice for a hot Texas summer.

Perusing the menu, we saw all the traditional Tex-Mex favorites, plus an emphasis on grilled meats. My eye was drawn to one of their combinations. Called simply "Cowboy Steak", it featured a 6 oz. black Angus outside cut of skirt steak, grilled and topped with three chipotle shrimp. A pair of cheese enchiladas, and the de rigueur rice and beans completed the dish.

Cowboy Steak at Alicia's Mexican Grille

What came out was impressive. An aggressively-charred, lime-marianated slab of honest-to-Robb skirt steak, topped with larger-than-expected, perfectly grilled shrimp. The chipotle sauce provided a nice, smoky counterpoint to both the skirt steak and the shrimp, forming a delightful Gulf Coast / Border version of central Texas BBQ. It was a fusion that worked.

Perhaps even more remarkable were the cheese enchiladas. I consider this dish to be another benchmark for measuring a Tex-Mex spot, and Alicia's did not disappoint. Fresh tortillas rolled around melted, oozing yellow cheese, topped with a very nice housemade chili gravy. None of the mystery red sauce that some places substitute... a revelation. These may be the best cheese enchiladas in the Houston area.

We're looking forward to returning to Alicia's in the very near future. But it's going to be tough to order anything else on the menu.

Martin Burgers - A Recipe by Dean Martin

2011-07-11T20:50:00.001-05:00

The man had more cool in his pinky than four dozen hipsters have in their entire bodies ...

(Via @LettersOfNote)

Americans Are Eating More Burgers... and Better Ones

2011-07-08T17:52:00.002-05:00

OK, I feel better. It's not just me.

Hubbell & Hudson's Bleu Cheese Burger

A new report released by food industry consultants Technomic revealed that Americans are eating more burgers, and better ones. Nearly half of the Americans surveyed now eat burgers at least once a week.

(I think that they're all in line at Hubcap Grill when I stop by.) That's up from 38% in 2009.

Another encouraging trend - consumers are willing to spend more for better burgers. Taste and convenience were ranked ahead of price when choosing which burger to enjoy. This bodes well for Houston's wide variety of better burger joints, from burger boutiques like Burger Guys to local success story / superlative burger chain Beck's Prime.

A fact that surprises some but doesn't surprise us: 99% of Americans surveyed say that they eat some kind of burger, even if only occasionally.

Source: Huffington Post.