H2Ohio

41 North Participates in Sustainability Summit

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 19:09:00 +0000

This week, approximately 500 business, civic, and community leaders are gathering in downtown Cleveland for the Sustainable Cleveland 2019 Summit. To goal is to develop a 10-year action plan that will support business growth and protect the environment. Among the participants is Jason Bristol, co-owner of 41 North Kayak Adventures, who hopes to stress the critical role clean water, healthy beaches, and an accessible Lakefront with opportunities for outdoor recreation can play in revitalizing city life.

For more information on Sustainable Cleveland 2019 check out the following links:

The Backcountry Barista

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 00:41:00 +0000

There's nothing quite like enjoying a cup of well-brewed coffee in the wilderness. For me, it's not a luxury, but a necessity for jumpstarting my morning. As with all my food choices for sea kayaking trips, I try to strike a balance between ease of preparation, weight savings, minimal clean-up, and taste.

Since I'm a stickler for a good cup 'o joe, I've tried just about every imaginable method for backcountry brew. Here's a quick run down on how to get the best caffeine fix on your next multi-day trip.

GSI Java Press

Even in civilization there are a large contingent of cafephiles that swear a French Press is the best way to brew coffee. So, it shouldn't be surprising that a lightweight Lexan press would result in a pretty good cup of brew.

GSI Outdoors--maker of all sorts of camp kitchen equipment--makes a Lexan Coffee press that comes in 10oz, 33oz, and 50oz sizes. Add a tbsp of coarsely ground coffee to the press. Pour boiled water (but allow it to rest a bit to come down in temperature) from your campstove over the grounds so they are completely saturated as you fill the press to the fill line. Let it sit a bit until a foamy "bloom" forms on the top. At that point, plunge the filter down slowly and steadily. Then pour your cups.

Drawbacks

You get great flavor, but there's a price to pay. First, is output. Even the 50oz size will only produce roughly 4 12oz cups of coffee. If you're in a group, you'll be serving in batches. Another problem is the waste generated. Grounds need to be scooped out, then packed out with your garbage. The Press itself doesn't weigh much, but does take up some space, an issue if you're low on storage space in your kayak.

Grade

Ease of Use = B
Flavor Factor = A
Quick Clean-Up = C-
Output to Effort Ratio = D

The Coffee Sock

This little contraption is basically a cotton or hemp filter with a drawstring closure that you soak in a pot of hot H20. The sock takes up little or no space and can be stored right with your coffee. Simply place a coffee sock with 1 tbsp of coffee per cup of water in the pot. Let sit and serve. You can produce a decent quantity with just one filter.

Drawbacks

Flavor tastes like coffee from a sock. Clean up is a pain, and you have to pack out your spent coffee grounds.

Grade

Ease of Use = A
Flavor Factor = D
Quick Clean-Up = C
Output to Effort Ratio = B

Single Cup Filters

Miniature filters that enable you to attempt to replicate a drip coffee machine right in your own mug. The include plastic and metal filter versions. If you drip in slowly, flavor can be alright. Clean up involves tapping out ground, then swishing with water.

Drawbacks

Better flavor than a coffee sock, but the single serving aspect means that unless everyone in your group has their own filter, there will be a queue of caffeine-deprived campers staring at you as you prepare your brew.

Grade

Ease of Use = A
Flavor Factor = B
Quick Clean-Up = C
Output to Effort Ratio = B

Brew Bags

Brew Bags are teabag style filters that can be purchased in the coffee aisle.
Just like tea, you simply boil water and jiggle the bag in the cup. One brew bag per cup.

Drawbacks

Flavor is terrible. This is partly because the method doesn't bring out the best in the coffee, but also because the companies that produce the stuff tend to make pretty flavorless coffee to start with. If you like watered-down coffee of the ilk that you get in the waiting rooms of your local tire store, then you'll be happy with this stuff.

Grade

Ease of Use = A
Flavor Factor = D
Quick Clean-Up = A-
Output to Effort = A

Cowboy Coffee

Forget filters. Simply pour coffee into a pot of boiled water and let sit. Methods for filtering out grounds range from dropping a little cold water over the top to force grounds to the bottom of the pot; "slinging" the coffee pot (this works only with a proper tea kettle with a lid and handle) in wide circles so that centrifugal force pushes the grounds to the bottom; or pouring through a bandanna.

Drawbacks

Tastes like boiled coffee, with the added joy of picking out grounds from your teeth for the duration of the morning. Clean-up and plenty of waste produced. Also, pouring off hot water, filtering through a bandanna, and especially "slinging" all come with the potential for second-degree burns. Blatant sexism: don't cowgirls drink coffee too?

Grade

Ease of Use = B
Flavor Factor = C-
Quick Clean-Up = D
Output to Effort = B

Instant Coffee: Mt. Hagen Organic v. Starbucks Via

Freeze-dried instant coffee is the obvious choice for simplicity, but up until recently the taste was so bad as to make it a last resort. More recently, a number of fuller bodied instant coffees have made their way to the market. Mt. Hagen makes an organic instant coffee that isn't too bad. But I was very impressed when I was able to try a sample of Starbuck's new Via Instant Coffee. Available only in Chicago, Seattle, and London at present, you can order online. The price is a little more than other instant coffee; the Mt. Hagen sells for around $8 a jar and produces 60 cups while Starbucks Via is $10 for 12 cups.

Method

Mt. Hagen, add a teaspoon to a cup of hot water and serve. Starbucks Via comes in single serve pouches.

Drawbacks

For Mt. Hagen, the flavor is better than every other method except the French Press. For Starbucks, the flavor--in my opinion--is better than all the other method; price is the only drawback. Each cup will cost you $0.83. Not bad compared to the $1.75 you'd pay for a cup at Starbucks, but still much higher than the $0.13 per cup for Mt. Hagen.

Grade

Ease of Use = A+
Flavor Factor = Mt. Hagen: B+ v. Starbucks: A
Quick Clean-Up = A+
Output to Effort = A

Conclusion

For my trips I'm now leaving the French Press behind and packing in Starbucks Via. With the weight and space I'm saving, I'll be able to have room for an extra bottle of wine...but that's a subject for a future blog.

Happy paddling!

noreply@blogger.com (j-man) — Wed, 10 Dec 2008 00:12:00 +0000

Thirty mile per hour current isn't that bad! Just don't get out of the boat...

Return from Pictured Rocks

noreply@blogger.com (John Tatro) — Sun, 10 Aug 2008 14:00:00 +0000

A group of seven paddlers from 41 North paddled Grand Island and Pictured Rocks for seven days. During this time the group experinced near perfect weather, were exposed to Bald Eagles, Loons, Herons, Ducks, and Bears.

For more read on.

The group left Munising Tourist Campground and began paddling around Grand Island on our way to Trout Bay.

While enroute to Trout Bay we passed the Light House across from Sand Point. The Government abandoned the house many years ago. Recently a private group purchased the lighthouse and has began to restore it.

As the group progress along Grand Island the cliffs began to rise.

Even on Grand Island the cliff faces began to show some of the coloring of the area.

As the day progressed and the temperatures rose we stopped to play in the falling water often.

We also got to cruise through a number of sea caves throughout the week.

Two happy paddlers after rock gardening.

There was time for play and rock/cliff jumping.

One of the many unique formations we encountered during the week.

A view through the arch at Lovers Leap.

A view of the Mosiquito river and Beach. We all discovered that camping at sites along Pictured rocks was very different than camping on Grand Isle.

View from the beach of our last night before returning to Munising.

I found it very difficult to do justice to a weeks worth of adventure in these paddling areas in a short blog. We took over a hundred pictures each worthy of being in this blog. I hope you would talk to one of us on the trip and ask questions as I know I was effected and improved by this trip and the people on it.

"Kink-Free" Skegs by P&H

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Fri, 08 Aug 2008 04:35:00 +0000

Last year, P&H launched their new "kink-free" skeg system. The system combines the best of both worlds: the ease of maintenance of a rope skeg with the precise trimming found in cable skegs. Moreover, the system is lightweight and fully field maintainable. While some kayak companies are making things more complicated (pneumatic skegs, for instance), I think the P&H approach of simple solutions for simple problems makes a great deal of sense.

Like anything new, however, there's a bit of a learning curve involved as people learn how the new technology functions. In my travels this summer, I've come across a few paddlers who've said they find the new skeg difficult to deploy. As it turns out, every one of those individuals was engaging the click slider on the skeg the wrong way. As soon as I showed them the correct technique (pushing forward to unlock the slider, not squeezing the trigger!), they were thrilled.

To get the word out, I put together this little video going over the system, how to deploy it, and how to adjust the tension on the skeg. Considering I was able to remove and replace the skeg system with one hand, while filming with my digital camera in the other, I'd say it's pretty easy...even for a guy with two left thumbs like me! Enjoy!

Thermoformed Kayaks Reviewed

noreply@blogger.com (j-man) — Sun, 27 Jul 2008 19:59:00 +0000

Thermoformed Kayaks: The new material to revolutionize paddle sports, or just white noise?

While there are a number of kayaks made from thermoformed plastic (e.g, Perception/Dagger's Airalite and Eddyline's Carbonlite 2000) the overall popularity of the boats for performance use appears to be limited and I, being one to always want to test things for myself, recently had the chance to paddle a number of these boats and after a little research have come up with a sort of pros and cons view on these kayaks.

I recently put thermoformed kayaks from Eddyline and Hurricane Kayaks to the test.

The Product(s): The first kayak I paddled was the new Eddyline Fathom LVand while I had my doubts about the boat before taking it out I was thoroughly impressed with the boat from start to finish. The first thing I noticed when I picked it up was how light it was. At 15 and a half feet the boat weighs only about 45 pounds. Unlike some of the earlier thermoform boats I had paddled in the past the Fathom had remarkably little of the flex that is normally associated with thermoformed boats. The other boats I paddled were the Eddyline Falcon (18' 50lbs) and Nighthawk 16 (16", 49 lbs), both of which I was equally pleased with, and a Hurricane Kayaks Tracer 16.5 (16'6", 46 lbs ) and Tracer 15.5.

The Pros: Thermoformed plastic seems to have hit the proverbial nail on the head as far as quality in initial product goes. Along with my testing of these boats I questioned seasoned paddlers about their own views and skepticism's of thermoformed boats and while a number of concerns were brought up the predominant flag was excessive flex in the boats' hulls. While thermoform boats do have more flex then a fiberglass or composite boat their overall strength is quite formidable. As testimony to the strength and durability of the material you will find that most new cars no longer have heavy steel bumpers but a thermoformed piece of plastic instead and if that isn't enough proof then feel free to watch this video of blatant abuse to the hull of an Delta Kayak:

Thermoformed kayaks in addition to being lightweight have the added attraction of being considerably less expensive (between 2400 and 2800 dollars for touring boats) than the typical fiberglass or composite boat which runs between 3000 and 4500 dollars. Also unlike the typical rotomolded polyethylene plastic kayak the thermoformed plastic kayak is much easier to repair once some substantial damage such as an actual hole is inflicted. Yet another lesser, but still beneficial feature is the UV fade protection included in many thermoformed plastics.

The Cons:Now to the bad news... while the benefits of the thermoformed boat are numerous and impressive the boats as a collective group have some considerable downfalls, the most notable being not all thermoformed boats are created equal. While companies like Eddyline have worked out nearly all of the problems with the material more recreation oriented companies like Hurricane Kayaks have produced less than top notch products ie: the Tracer 16.5 & 15.5 which I also paddled and found to have an unacceptable amount of flex throughout the entire boat, effecting its performance. This flex was also present in the thigh braces, making edging uncomfortable and unstable. The next downfall comes in the event of damage resulting in a leak. While the boats are easy to repair you will need to have a rep. make the repair in most cases and the more significant problem arises when water gets between the different layers of plastic allowing liquid to work its way to all parts of the boat and cause future problems.

The Breakdown:The bottom line is that these kayaks--with continued improvement--might revolutionize the kayaking world...but not just yet. Sorry if you were looking for decisiveness. The fact of the matter is these boats need work (some more than others, * cough cough*) in certain areas. However for the most part thermoformed boats should appeal to a wide variety of people such as those who are worried about weight for solo loading but don't want to put out the dough for a kevlar boat, or for those who need a boat that has some of the performance characteristics of a fiberglass boat but don't need the price attached to them. Overall I think thermoformed boats will gain prevalance in the upcoming years but for many hardcore/old-school paddlers fiberglass will remain the standard.

Product Pics & Links:

Eddyline Fathom LV:

http://www.eddyline.com/eddyline-kayaks-legendary-design-fathom-lv.php

Eddyline Nighthawk 16:

http://www.eddyline.com/eddyline-kayaks-legendary-design-nighthawk-16.php

Eddyline Falcon S18:

http://www.eddyline.com/eddyline-kayaks-legendary-design-falcon-s18.php

Hurricane Kayaks Tracer 16.5:

http://www.hurricaneaquasports.com/tracer-165.html

Human-Powered Cities!

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 15:07:00 +0000

Too much carbon monoxide for me to bear.
Car after bus after car after bus
after this my lungs will be so f***ed up.

-- Cake, "Carbon Monoxide"

This has nothing to do with kayaking, except in the sense that all human-powered vehicles share a certain kinship. Check out this short film about Bogota, Columbia's "Ciclovia." Each Sunday, the city closes 90km of roads to cars, and opens them up to cyclists, skaters, and walkers. I was struck by the way communities are transformed (re-formed?) when their residents aren't simply speeding past each other at 40mph. Cleveland gets a mention here for its own small steps in this direction, the "Walk and Roll Cleveland" movement...but this film shows what could be possible.

MLK Boulevard will be closed for cars on August 24th. Now if we can only close our Lakeshore to jet-skis every Sunday, that'd be some progress!

P&H Scorpio...First Reviews

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 17:05:00 +0000

P&H's newest model, the Scorpio, has landed in the US and the first reviews are coming in. Check out this comprehensive review by the owner of The River Connection in New York. I had a chance to test paddle this kayak while conducting a short day trip during the Door County Sea Kayak Symposium. Having extensively paddled the Cetus--the composite kayak on which the Scorpio is based--I was in a position to compare it's plastic cousin. The Scorpio is slightly shorter 16'11, and a bit more svelte at 22" on the beam. I found the dimensions made the boat a bit more playful on the water...especially so, since at 150lbs and carrying no gear, I was a bit underweight for this kayak and it rode high in the water.

Specs:
* 22" wide
* Max deck height - 13.7"
* Cockpit dimensions: 31" x 16.5"
* 3-layer polyethylene foam core construction.
* Swede form (the widest portion is behind the seat...this makes for great primary stability, and also allows for a cleaner catch and higher angle on your forward stroke, as the boat narrows in front of you).
* 4 hatches.
* Skeg
* MSRP $1999.00

Click "read more" for the rest of my review.

Outfitting
* P&H does a great job of paying attention to detail, and the outfitting in the boat is well thought out. As with all P&H polyethylene boats, the deck fittings are recessed and molded in using brass inserts, rather than bolted through the boat. Thigh braces are whitewater style and can be moved forward or backward to provide a better fit. The boat has the standard P&H seat with a removable seat pad. The back-band wraps around and is tightened by means of a webbing strap with brass D-rings. The D-rings lock tight. This replaces the old ratchet system, which didn't hold up as well to salt water.

* The boat comes standard with P&H's new kink-free skeg system. This was first put into production on the Cetus and is now standard on all the polyethelene boats as well.

* Like the Cetus, the Scorpio 3 bulkheads and four hatches: large compartments in the bow and stern, a cavernous day hatch behind the seat, and a small deck hatch in front of the cockpit. The deck hatch is large enough to store flares, electronics, snacks, or extra water and is easy to access. All have Kajaksport hatch covers. The deck hatch compartment is molded ABS plastic, riveted to the underside of the deck. When the Cetus first came out, I wondered if the deck hatch was too gimmicky, but after taking it on a week-long trip in Canada, found it be a wise use of some underutilized storage space.

* My sole complaint on outfitting was the use of rivets to secure the deck hatch. While these are undoubtedly strong enough for their intended use, they just looked a little funny to me from an aesthetic standpoint. But, that's just my opinion.

Performance
I had the boat out on a windy day (winds 15-20kn), but, since I was guiding beginners, only in small waves.

Hopping in the boat, it was apparent that there's plenty of room in this kayak. My immediate thought was that this boat fills a void in our instructional fleet...a man with size 13 shoes could fit in this boat, whereas a Capella RM would be a tighter squeeze. Since I have size 8 shoes, the boat was extremely roomy, although I still maintained good contact with the thigh braces and at the hips.

After a quick seal launch off a 3 foot dock, I immediately recognized the stability that I associated with the Cetus. The boat has a great deal of primary stability, making it a reassuring boat to paddle for novices. At the same time, the boat responded immediately to edged turns. The boat sits comfortably when edged, and I was able to maintain aggressive edging to effect 180-degree carved turns with no problem. I tried a few rolls and found the boat rolled with little effort..the forgiving stability and higher knee position made it pop around easily.

The boat was more playful than the Cetus, yet still has plenty of room for packing for trips, and enough volume to keep support paddler and gear without riding low and slow. Thus, it fits the bill as a good all-arounder.

Our route included a two-mile crossing with a beam wind, which gave me a chance to see how the Scorpio responded. With a 15-20knot beam wind, the Scorpio weather cocked as designed, but not excessively. This tendency was easily corrected by deploying the skeg about 1/4 of the way down...a benefit of the P&H system which combines the maintenance benefits of the rope/bungee skeg with the fine-tuning ability of a skeg-slider. Keeping in mind that I am on the light end for this kayak and given its relatively higher front deck, it appears that it is very manageable in wind.

The other performance aspect that struck me was how fast the boat was for a plastic kayak.

I didn't have the opportunity to paddle the Scorpio in waves, but gained another perspective: observing it being paddled in waves by Ben Lawry. Earlier in the week, Ben, Kelly Blades, and I took the boat for a test run in Rowley's Bay, WI. We paddled into a 15+ knot headwind, with small waves running very close together. Watching the Scorpio it was apparent that the boat was a dry ride...the ample volume in the bow rising up and over the waves, as opposed to plowing through them (as I was in much lower volume Vela). Of course, Ben's a machine, so he had the boat cruising quite nicely, although I tend to think that even if he was paddling a folding lawn chair and using a 2x4 as a paddle, he'd probably still beat me. On the return trip, Ben was off to the races, the Scorpio cruising with the following sea quite predictably.

I look forward to the arrival of one here so I can test it in conditions.

Conclusion

The Scorpio is a fast, maneuverable, and stable kayak capable of carrying enough gear for extended trips, but fun enough for day paddling and playing in surf.

At $1999.00, it's on the high-end for plastic boats, but the 3-layer construction and outfitting are top notch. This boat fills the gap for someone looking for a performance boat but doesn't want to pay for the cost of a composite, or who prefers a plastic kayak because of the locations they paddle (e.g., rock gardens, rocky coasts, etc.).

The folks at P&H have told me that the mold for the Scorpio LV is done, so there should a model that's a better fit for guys like me coming down the production pike soon! But I liked the standard Scorpio enough to order a couple for our fleet already.

DISCLOSURE: I paddle for P&H. I encourage you to test paddle this boat; I'm sure you'll reach the same conclusions I did!

Door County Sea Kayak Symposium

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:49:00 +0000

Here's a little wrap up I posted to the P&H blog from my week of coaching fun up at the Door County Sea Kayak Symposium. The DCKS is a wonderful event...laid back in a wonderful venue with great accommodations, terrific food, and a real sense of community. Every year I look forward to heading up to the Door for what has become a kind of "kayak family" reunion. It's also a chance to see how other instructors teach, which has been a huge benefit to me in my own development as a coach.

Read more about it here.

Or, check out Kelly Blades' pensive post about his week at Rowley's Bay.

Or Derrick Mayoleth's view of the symposium from a coach and guides' perspective.

Five Fingers Footwear

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:08:00 +0000

No, this isn't a case of extreme frostbite. It's me in a pair of Five Fingers sandals-shoes-slippers-thingys. I had a chance to test these out recently and found them to be quite comfortable. The neoprene uppers prevented rocks and sand from entering the shoe, and the Vibram soles, while flexible, were tough enough to make the shoes comfortable in the boat and on land.

They may look a bit silly, but they are an alternative for kayaking footwear, especially for playboaters who have a hard time getting their feet into their boats.

41 North: Media Darlings?

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 14:01:00 +0000

41 North has had its share of press coverage. People like kayaking, and every summer we field requests for interviews and stories. Since 2003, our little company has been the cover story of Friday Magazine, got a passing mention in the New York Times travel section, has been featured in an Ohio Department of Tourism Ad in Real Simple Magazine, was highlighted in Paddle Dealer Magazine, and was given Cleveland Magazine's coveted "Best of Cleveland" nod in 2006.

41 North was in the news again this week. This time one of series in which Cleveland Plain Dealer health and fitness reporter Zach Lewis tries new sports and writes about their health benefits.

Zach came down to our rental facility a few weeks ago for a quick introduction to the sport. After going through the gear, filming a little video, and taking him through a truncated 1 hr lesson, we paddled out the Lake. The reporter, who had been cruising along just fine in flatwater was a little less comfortable in the 1ft swell rolling, but managed just fine.

Click here to read the full article about Zach's experience on the Cleveland.com website.

Low Dock Landings

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 15:41:00 +0000

Every so often, a paddler needs to enter or exit their kayak from a low dock. A few simple steps will have you entering and exiting smoothly. Here's a quick video...click "read more" for detailed explanation complete with photos.

1) Maneuver your kayak parallel to the dock and release your sprayskirt.

2) Place the paddle shaft behind the seat to form a brace.

3) Be sure to grip the paddle shaft securely to the cockpit with the outside hand. Place your fingers on the inside of the cockpit and thumb over the paddle shaft, as seen in the photo below. This "bolts" the paddle to the kayak. If you don't do so, the boat can rotate freely and the stabilizing benefit of the paddle is lost! The dockside hand is placed on the paddle shaft on or near the dock.

4) Keeping your weight on the dockside hand, sit up on your back deck. As long as you're keeping your weight towards the dock, your boat will remain completely stable. Sitting on the back deck makes the last step much easier!

5) Swing your legs, then rear, to the dock, and you're home free!

Happy paddling!

STROKES DISCUSSION: Braces

noreply@blogger.com (Nick P) — Sat, 12 Jul 2008 15:55:00 +0000

MARK-HIGH BRACE

NICK- LOW BRACE

In the most basic sense of paddling one can break down strokes into component parts; forward, reverse, sweeps, draws, braces and etc. This is typically the way we teach these strokes as well. However, as you advance and begin to link strokes in real conditions the distinction between the component parts often becomes blurred, yet in each stroke there remains good fundamental skill. In these two images I aim to offer a quick critique on both the high brace and the low brace in real-time action as shown during a whitewater outing this past spring.

HIGH BRACE: When I teach the high brace I feel the most important part of the stroke is having your onwater elbow directly underneath the paddle shaft and having the hands in close to your body. Mark exemplifies this in the image. Although not completely clear because of some air in his drysuit, he has rotated from his waist towards the right side to extend the paddle out over the water. Knowing Mark is using a paddle set at 0 degree feather you can also see by the offwater blade that the onwater blade is placed flat on the surface of the water for maximum support.

LOW BRACE: Much like the high brace, hand/elbow positioning is very important. Nick is preparing his low brace on the right hand side as he works on keeping the right side of his boat edged up into the flow of a small rapid. You can see he has a strong paddlers box in position, that is to say the paddle shaft is parallel to his shoulders. He has brought the paddle in close to his body at the start of this brace so that by simply rotating his forearms down he can finish in a position where his onwater elbow is vertical above the shaft as he pushes off the water.

Recognizing that neither of these strokes are being used solely as braces, they have elements that do not quite look like the text book modeling you may be used to seeing. I have began a quick overview. I encourage you think about what you may have already learned or experienced in relation to these strokes. Please comment and critique on the elements that agree with the guidelines and also things that could be done differently.

For a reference to standards by which you can compare strokes you can see the ACA guideline (braces) or KAYAK PADDLING for some good illustrations.

Water Torture: How NOT to Reenter a Kayak

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:40:00 +0000

The Germans have a word for the enjoyment derived from watching someone else's misery: Schadenfreude. At the risk of entertaining this dark side of human nature, I stumbled upon this clip on YouTube of a man unsuccessfully attempting to reenter a kayak in CALM water.

Since we don't normally capsize in calm conditions several feet from a dock, it probably makes sense to learn to do things the right way, practice skills in a variety of settings, and to continue to educate yourself on safety techniques.

It may very well be that this waterlogged soul did take a class and learn at one point how to properly reenter his kayak using a paddle float and simply forgot some of the core principles necessary for a successful reentry.

So where did he go wrong?

In no particular order:

1) Don't use deck bungees to secure your paddle to your kayak. By design they stretch, which means the boat still turns. Keep your paddle in your hand and grip it to the cockpit coaming...that way, you're in control of your paddle.

2) Placing the paddle BEHIND the cockpit and entering over the back deck is the most stable position.

3) Be sure to secure your paddle float to the paddle shaft. Floats typically have a bit of webbing that can be wrapped around the paddle shaft and buckled or snapped into place. This will prevent the float from coming off the paddle blade.

4) Keep your weight over the paddle shaft and leaning toward the float at all times. I think it is a tremendous help to come into the cockpit on your side, looking at the float, rather than on your belly.

Imagine the scenario above if this had been a must re-enter situation...cold water, alone, and off-shore. Hypothermia is the number one cause of death for sea kayakers, and having a handle on how to reenter a kayak quickly and efficiently is critical.

I'll post a video of the "right way" to use a paddle float to reenter a kayak in a few days.

Buying a Kayak 101

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Sat, 17 May 2008 03:49:00 +0000

You're in the market for a new or used sea kayak. Now what? Unless you're an entirely impulsive person, buying your first kayak can be an overwhelming process.

I'm a strong believer that, if you're new to the sport, the best tactic is to educate yourself. One place to start is a retail shop that allows on-water demos. Test-driving a kayak is as important as test-driving a car! Taking a class from a reputable instructional school is another way to learn more about sea kayak designs, and will help you determine what features and designs are right for you.

A few common questions that new buyers agonize over:

- Should I buy plastic or fiberglass?
- What features should I look for?
- How do I know if a kayak is well made?
- What should I look out for if I'm buying a used boat?

PLASTIC OR FIBERGLASS?

Sea kayaks are made in a variety of materials: wood, canvas, plastic, fiberglass, kevlar, carbon-kevlar. Since plastic and fiberglass are the most common materials, I'll limit the discussion to those two.

Each has it's benefits and drawbacks. Plastic is relatively inexpensive, recyclable, and has tremendous impact resistance. On the other hand, its less stiff, deforms and weakens with exposure to heat and UV, is heavier, and is difficult to repair. Even all plastics are not made the same. Single-layer polyethylene boats tend to be less stiff. Several companies, including P&H and Valley Sea Kayaks make 3-layer polyethylene boats, which sandwich a foam core between two layers of plastic, resulting in a stiffer, lighter, and repairable boat. Most recently, thermoformed plastics are now being used for kayaks. These can be molded into more precise shapes, and are very lightweight but lack the impact resistance of polyethylene.

Many new paddlers shy away from fiberglass boats because they believe they're less durable than plastic. Spend a week with paddlers on the rocky coasts of Rhode Island or Maine and you'll see how false that is! Fiberglass boats can take a beating...but most importantly, they can be repaired easily and effectively with materials that are readily available to every boater. Composites are lighter, stiffer, and can be molded into finer entry lines than their plastic counterparts, which makes for a faster, more responsive kayak on the water.

8 FEATURES TO LOOK FOR

For a sea kayak, the following features are a must:

1) Good Bulkheads. At least two bulkheads (foam or fiberglass walls that divide the boat into compartments...this keeps the boat afloat after capsize and aids in draining the boat of water during rescues.) Bulkheads can be made of foam, welded plastic, or fiberglass.

2) Does it have a day hatch? The day hatch is a small third hatch accessible just behind the seat. As the name suggests, it's a place to store items that you might need quick access to, e.g., flares, first aid, GORP, or a camera. This is a feature that I have decided I can't live without!

3) Recessed deck fittings (RDFs). Deck fittings secure the deck lines and perimeter lines in place. These should be recessed into the deck, rather than protruding out from it.

4) No screw holes! One mark of a well made boat is that all the fittings are connected to molded brass inserts...there are no bolts coming through the kayak. Bolts can snag and tear dry bags. But they also can come loose, allowing water to enter your boat.

5) Skeg, Rudder, or None? This is the classic "less filling v. tastes great" debate of sea kayaking. Without getting into the relative merits of skegs and rudders, let me tell you that anyone who says that a rudder is necessary to turning doesn't know a thing about paddling! The truth is, both a rudder and a skeg are used for the same thing: to "trim" the kayak when paddling in a beam wind. This keeps the kayak on course. Turning is effected through proper paddle strokes and boat edging. Remember, 90% of the time, your skeg or rudder will not be deployed. With that in mind, it's up to you to determine whether during that 90% you'd prefer to have your stern end adorned with a sharp metal mechanical device rigged with steel cables or a nice skeg which won't slice and dice you like a tomato during rescues and surf landings! Any guess which side I'm on? ;)

6) Good hatch covers. This is what keeps the water out of your boat. If a hatch cover comes off too easily, that's not always a good thing. You don't want it popping off if a wave breaks on it, or if your scrambling up the side of your boat during a reentry. Kajaksport and Valley hatches are the best. See if pressure on the center causes the edges to pop off, or if you can accidentally pull the hatch off...if so, you may want to look at another boat. You can also check the seal buy putting water IN the hatch and tipping the boat upside down...if it leaks out, you've got a poorly fitting hatch.

7) Toggles. This seems simple enough, but this is one area where well-made boats stand out. Bow and stern toggles should run through the end of the bow and stern, rather than being bolted in with a fitting. A toggle running through solid plastic, or in the case of a fiberglass boat, solid resin block in the ends is less likely to fail. Toggles are used for hanging on to the boat during rescues, but they also end up being used for carrying the boat, tying off bow and stern lines, etc. You want a strong connection there.

8) Outfitting. You should feel like you're wearing your kayak, not sitting in it. To that end, thigh braces are a must. However, remember that outfitting (seat, thigh pads, etc.) can usually be adjusted to fit you or retrofitted with closed cell foam. Bolt-in (rather than molded in) seats can be removed to provide a lower center of gravity; back bands can be swapped out; hip pads added in. In other words, buy a kayak based on its hull, not how cushy the seat is. This is the least important part of your decision making!

USED BOATS: BUYER BEWARE

Buying a used boat can be a great cost saver. A kayak is a pretty simple machine...there's not a lot that can go wrong with it. However, there are some things to keep an eye out for.

Plastic boats
1) Look for deep gouges and excessive wear on the hull.
2) Examine all the bulkheads. If it's a foam bulkhead, it can easily be resealed with marine-grade silicon caulk.
3) Check for "oil-canning." These are permanent bulges on the hull of the kayak, usually from years spent cranked down on a rack.

Fiberglass or composite boats
1) Shine a flash light through the hull to look for thin spots or evidence of repairs.
2) Check the seam (where the deck and hull are connected by a piece of 2" fiberglass tape) to make sure it's intact.
3) Check the gel coat for chips, gouges, and cracks. Spider(star-shaped cracks) and hairline cracks are common in the gelcoat of fiberglass boats. This occurs when the boat flexes under stress (from loading, surf, or the weight of a paddler doing a jig on the back deck) and the gelcoat, which is less flexible than the fiberglass under it, gives. This is common over the bulkheads. However, a spider crack in the middle of the freeboard may suggest a collision, so be sure to inspect the glass behind it.
4) Check to make sure the bulkhead glass is intact.

All boats
1) Check the hatch covers. Rubber hatches should be pliable and fit tightly on the rims. If they appear cracked or are very loose, they are UV damaged and need to be replaced. If so, be sure the hatches are still available for that model. Most British boats use standard covers from Valley or Kajaksport, so that's easy. Many American manufacturers make their own hatches, so that could be tricky.
2) Check all lines for fraying. Deck elastics should snap tightly against the boat. Lines and elastics can easily be replaced.
3) If the boat is equipped with a skeg, make sure it deploys fully. If it has a wire skeg, examine the skeg cable both at the slider and at the skeg for evidence of past kinking. If it has kinked once, it's bound to do it again in the same location.

Spring Cleaning

noreply@blogger.com (John Tatro) — Sat, 10 May 2008 10:13:00 +0000

I hope all of you have been out paddling by now. I also hope all of you have also taken time to critically look at your paddling gear to make sure it is ready for another year of paddling. If not let's go through the most important pieces starting with your PFD.

Make sure it has no tears or parts that have become unstiched. Check to make sure all the zippers, snaps, and adjusting buckles still operate. Check the fabric, adjusting straps and buckles to ensure they still have there orignal strength. Remember your PFD is exposed to the same UV radation that we are but does have the benefit of sunscreen so over time it degrades loosing its structural integrity. Usually this can be seen as the color of the vest isn't as bright, but be sure to pull and tug on the fabric to ensure its strength is still there. Having your vest coming apart in the water would not be the best way to test your vest.

Next your let's take time to examine your spray skirt. Begin on the top surface looking for worn spots, holes, and tears. Also look at the tunnel area (the part that goes around your chest area) for damage. Remember that dirt acts as a grinding agent that slowly destroys your skirt, so a clean skirt will last longer. Flip the skirt over and look at the underside for worn areas, holes, and tears. Be especially mindful of the area that attaches to coaming of your kayak as this area experiences the most stress and wear. Finally check to see that it has the correct tension when pulled over your cockpit. To loose and it won't be able to stay on in choppy and rougher water. To tight and you may struggle trying to get it on and off.

Take time to look at your paddles, both primary and spare. Begin at a blade on one end looking for cracks, chips, anything unusual. Work your way down the blade to were it joins the shaft. Make sure it is still firmly attached, again checking for cracks, splits anything that looks unusual probably needs closer examination. Continue up the shaft looking for the same thing, and continue until you reach the end of the other blade.

Finally take the time to give your kayak a good wash both inside and out. This is the time to check for cracks, dents, God forbid holes. Afterwards start at the bow or stern and slowly work your way to the other end. Check the toggles for wear, ensure the hatchs still seat properly. Look inside each hatch compartment to ensure the bulkheads are still in place and firmily mounted. Check all the deck lines and bungees for wear and replace anything that is worn. Take plenty of time in the cockpit. Check the back band, seat, footbraces, and thigh braces for wear, broken parts. Again TAKE YOUR TIME, this is where you work and play, make sure its functioning properly. This is also a good time to add any padding to make it more comfortable or make it fit better.

Most of this can be done down the basement or in your garage on one of the many rainy days that have been occurring. One of my favorite passages "The sea favors the prepared" comes into mind when I'm examining my gear. Well today is suppose to be sunny and cool but I can't think of a better day to be on the water. Hope to see you there.

Whitewater Fun on the Yougiogheny

noreply@blogger.com (John Tatro) — Thu, 08 May 2008 12:10:00 +0000

On a late weekend in April the 41 North crew, Marc, Marius, Nic, Josh, John, & Wendy along with Sarah, Damon, & Scott from Riverside Kayak and of course Kelly Blades (BCU regional training coordinator)met to whitewater the Yough.
This is the Ohiopyle falls just above where we put in to go down river.

Here's all of the crew gathered together for some final suggestions before we go down river and a motivational speech for those who are anxious at their first attempt at class III/IV river.

Nic at the bottom of Cucumber falls

Nick making an eddy turn after a good ride on a standing wave.

Marius playing and showing some of his moves.

Mark and Marius waiting in line to play in the waves.

Mark and Marius on the same wave, making it look easy.

Smiles from Josh (j man) after riding some waves.

I know we all had a good time paddling that weekend. For most of us it was a new paddling venue that allowed us to practice existing skills in a new environment. Some of us swam and some didn't. Josh experienced being pinned to rock by the current, and I glad to say he was no worse for the experience. The area was beautiful and being in the gorge was amazing. Hope you are all out paddling and we are looking forward to seeing you this summer.

noreply@blogger.com (John Tatro) — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 12:55:00 +0000

There is Hope of SPRING!

Just returned from 10 days in Georgia paddling and I know spring is on its way. They say a picture is worth a thousand words and this for me is one of those pictures. For more just read on.

Do to calm conditions, did a little sight seeing. Tybee Lighthouse was interesting. It is in the process of being restored.

It's easy to see there conditions were fairly flat at Tybee on my first day. Next day there were 2 to 3 footers in the Triangle and I had a good time. Forgot to take the camera that day, so just imagine fun in small surf conditions.

Launch day at Crooked River State Park, on our way to Cumberland Island. The island is a National Park. It is one of many barrier Islands protecting the East Coast.

Picture of Harris (he is from Lithuania) on our way down the Crooked River. Tide was on ebb and moving about 2.5 knots

This was our first stop (Plum Orchard) on Cumberland Island. There is a Mansion here formerly the Island was owned by the Carnegie's.

This mansion was built for there son and is quite beautiful both inside and on the grounds.

Early morning shot going through Christmas Creek on the flood tide. Its about 6:30 am left Brickhill Bluff at about 5:00 am. Paddling in salt water in the dark leaves a bio-luminescent trail in the water which has to be seen to be believed.

Landing just beyond the mouth of Christmas Creek after playing in 2 to 4 footers in the shoal off the creek. Wind was from the east and building. Later in the day waves/swells were running 3 to 5 feet making the day much better for playing.

On the third day the waves were 3 to 5 foot with winds from the East 10 to 15 knots and the seas was building to 4 to 6 feet. I had to learn how to get through dumping waves and learn the concept of timing to get out without getting trashed in the process.

This was our home for the 2nd and 3rd night out. The oaks are bent over forming an arch to camp under. Spanish moss was hanging from all the trees and it was warm!!!!! Mid to high 70's in the day and Mid 50's to low 60's at night. Just great weather no rain or especially no snow.

This is just one of the many visitors in our campsite. It's not every day you get to see and armadillo wandering thru.

This was the only night we had a campfire as there are only two campgrounds were its allowed, but it was a great ending before leaving on the last leg of our trip.

The next day we packed up and punched thru solid 5 to 6 foot dumping waves. The surf zone was nearly a football field long with 3 different break zones to get thru. The seas on the outside of the zone were running between 6 to 8 foot swells winds began from the East and then shifted to the South 22 to 25 knots creating waves from the East and South making paddling very interesting. We ended up beaching because we could not make progress into the winds and of course we were heading South to the St. Mary's river. Slogged along the shore until we reached the river, portaged around the jetty and up the River to St. Mary's. There was some hard paddling on this trip but I learned a lot about myself and gained a greater understanding of the sea, tides and currents.

Werner Paddles

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 03:15:00 +0000

Just a bit of shameless product promotion. Admittedly, I've drunk the Kool-Aid when it comes to Werner's line of foam-core carbon fiber paddles. They're super light, super buoyant (which means less fatigue over time), and--as this little vid that's been making the rounds on the net illustrates--super strong!

Recycling Fuel Canisters

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Mon, 17 Mar 2008 22:59:00 +0000

For multi-day trips, I opt to use a white gas stove. White gas is easy to find, and white gas canisters are refillable. Some people aren't comfortable with the priming process, but in reality, white gas stoves are safe and easy to operate. Maintenance includes periodic cleaning to keep the fuel lines and burner jets free of deposits.

I also carry a MSR Pocket Rocket canister stove. This operates using a pressurized fuel canister which contains Iso-Propane fuel. These are easy to operate (just turn them on and light), which is ideal for that getting the coffee going in the morning when you're cold and groggy. One drawback to these stoves is the fact that the canisters lose pressure as they draw down, so the BTU output reduces over time...they also lose pressure in cold temperatures. In addition, the canisters aren't refillable, however they are recyclable.

How to Recycle a Spent Fuel Canister

>Simply empty your canister of all fuel, then puncture it with a tool (Snowpeak makes a handy one, but a big rock works too!), then put the canister in with your alumnium recyclables.

Check with your municipal works department to determine just what the requirements are for recycling canisters in your area...some will take empty (marked EMPTY with a sharpie), but un-punctured canisters.

Happy paddling!

Equipment: VHF

noreply@blogger.com (Nick P) — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 21:04:00 +0000

I believe too often we stereotype equipment into broad categories and never think outside of the box enough to realize the full potential of a piece of gear.

As an exercise think of all the things you can use your paddle for other than propelling your kayak. Another piece of gear placed in the proverbial box is the VHF radio. This piece of equipment is meant for more than bouncing around in your boat waiting for the unfortunate day when you may need to call for somebody to pluck you out of the raging ocean with a helicopter. Lets take the VHF out of its box and look at some of its versatile features and also how to communicate appropriately using it.

If you do not already own a handheld VHF the following are what I feel a few key features to look for when purchasing such equipment.

Battery: with any electronic device that I purchase, one of the most important features I look for is what type battery the unit uses. There are two reasons for this. The first is how long it is going to last in the backcountry and how am I going to recharge it. The second is can I use this battery in another device or in this case more importantly, can I steal the batteries from a non-critical device (camera) to keep my means of potential emergency communication functional. In many VHFs you can purchase aftermarket battery trays that accept common AA or AAAs that replace the factory provided battery.

Size:as is the case with all of our gear we need to consider the volume that a piece of equipment is going to displace.

Dual band: this is a typical feature on most –if not all modern VHFs, and is extremely helpful. It allows the user to set the unit on one channel for casual conversation while also monitoring another channel (say 16).

Weather: I use the weather band of my VHF perhaps more than any other feature. Because NOAA continually broadcasts local forecasts I can quickly tune into local marine forecasts. This is much more beneficial than the regional forecasts perhaps picked up on standard AM/FM stations.

Waterproof: while it may seem intuitive, there is a drastic and potentially devastating difference between waterproof and water resistant. Waterproof implies that the unit is submersible to some degree; water resistant simply refers to the ability of the unit to handle light splashes. While not standardized, most manufactures rate the waterproofness of their units using the government standard for durability (JIS). Higher numbers usually imply the unit can endure more intense environmental exposure. Look for at least a JIS 7 rating (waterproof up to 1meter for 30min). Even though your unit may be waterproof it is still a good idea to use some sort of drybag made for VHFs that allows full functionality while in the bag.

Communication by VHF

While I feel there are frequently better means of group communication (e.g. visual signals) the VHF radio can, in many situations be a desirable and vital means of getting in touch with somebody while on the water. A couple hints on communicating with the VHF.

First, remember the VHF was never meant to be a cell phone. You cannot chat with your paddling partner like a 13year old girl on the way to a Justin Timberlake concert, even if you sang SexyBack on the way to the water. When you begin a conversation announce who you are and who you are calling, for example “Orange Kayak this is Green Kayak come in.” Wait for an acknowledgement and then begin your conversation. Remember your purpose should be to obtain or give information which is pertinent to a specific condition. If you are planning on hailing somebody outside your party there are three technical introductions which need to be used each in relation to the nature of the call. They are:

Urgent Emergency: MAYDAY…MAYDAY…MAYDAY

Potentially developing problem: PAN…PAN…PAN (pronounced pahn)

Common safety notification: SECURITE… SECURITE … SECURITE (pronounced Su-cure-uh-tay)

When you are finished with your call announce it by saying either OVER (if awaiting further communication) or OUT (if ending all transmission), using both is redundant.

E.g., If I were crossing a channel I may announce “SECURITE (3x), this is Kayak 1, beginning crossing of channel near big blue light. OVER”

Second hint tip, it would behoove you and your group to designate a “working” channel for common chatter (68, 69, 71, and 78A are all open channels -- click here for a full list of VHF channel designations in the US). You'll get a firm reprimand from local authorities for using 16 to discuss where stop for lunch.

Other Tips

Become familiar with the function of your VHF, practice using it in your group. You will quickly learn how to maximize its usefulness as a verbal communication tool.

Keep your VHF close to you; it does little good tucked away in a day hatch underneath your lunch, spare clothes, water and first aid kit. I made a simple modification (see photo above) to my PFD using a piece of bungee and two brass grommets from the fabric store. When I am in a situation where I may use my VHF I keep it fastened to my PFD, I can quickly grab the unit, pull it free of the bungee and have full access for communication. Because it is tethered by the cord I can also let go of it and be ready to paddle in an instant.

Pack and transport your VHF in a way that ensures the unit is not accidentally turned on while traveling. I do this placing it and my other electronics in a plastic case. This will help you avoid the sinking feeling of putting on your gear and finding the batteries in your VHF have gone dead.

Summary

To recap, with your VHF you can: get the weather forecast, use the removable antenna as a finger splint, actively communicate with your group, communicate with other boat traffic, turn it up really loud and wake up a whole camp, make EMERGENCY calls.

Campstove Cuisine: Pad Thai

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Sun, 09 Mar 2008 14:29:00 +0000

Cooking in the wilderness has its challenges. Limited storage space, lack of refrigeration, and a finite amount of cooking fuel all limit your choices in menu planning. However, meals in the back country don't have to be boring or repetitive.

Each month, we'll bring you a new field-tested recipe to add to your repertoire. My principles for backcountry cuisine: any meal should be simple to prepare, lightweight, nutritionally balanced, take little space*, require a minimum of stove fuel, and should result in a little waste. And most importantly, it should taste good!

This month's recipe: Pad Thai. This Thai rice noodle dish is flavorful, contains plenty of protein, and is wheat and gluten free.

Ingredients

Main dish
- 8 oz. package Pad Thai (wide rice) noodles
- 4 tbsp. vegetable oil
- 1 package extra-firm tofu (in non-perishable, aseptic packaging)
- 2 cloves garlic - minced
- 4-6 scallions - thinly sliced and the green ends reserved.
- 1/2 cup crushed peanuts

Sauce
- 1 lime
- 3 to 4 tbsp fish sauce (available at Asian foods markets & most grocery stores)
- 3 tbsp sugar (or 4 packets sugar in the raw)
- 1 to 2 pinches red pepper flakes.
- 2 tbsp. cilantro (from tube)

Directions:

- Bring 1.5 liters (that's 1-1/2 Nalgene bottles, or 48 oz) of water to a boil. Remove from heat and add 8 oz. package of rice noodles. Soak noodles for 7 minutes, then drain and set aside.

- While noodles are soaking, make the Pad Thai sauce by combining fish sauce, sugar, lime juice, red pepper flakes, and cilantro. Stir and set aside.

- Heat tofu on a non-stick frying pan to draw water out and toughen the proteins. After browning on both sides, slice the tofu into 1/2" cubes.

- Heat approximately 2 tbsp of vegetable oil to the pan. Add minced garlic and scallions and sautee with the tofu. Toss well.

- Reduce heat to low, then add noodles, sauce, and half of the peanuts and toss well with tongs. Cook for approximately 2 minutes over low heat.

- Garnish with remaining peanuts and chopped greens from the scallions.

Serves 3-4 (or 2 really hungry guys!). A good side dish for this meal is an iceberg lettuce and cucumber salad, tossed with rice vinegar.

Notes:

I keep a "kitchen" pantry of spices, oils, and other cooking condiments. Pre-package liquids (oil, fish sauce, vinegars, etc.) in Nalgene bottles (stored in a ziploc bag for extra leak security). I bring packets of sugar in the raw.

Minced herbs are now available minced and packaged in tubes...these make for easy dispensing, last longer than fresh herbs, and taste much better than dried herbs.

Do as much pre-packaging as you can. This will save time and waste. Remember, whatever you pack in has to be packed out.

On trips I carry a small soft cooler with vegetables. In cold water climates, the bottom of your kayak will remain cold and keep vegetables and other perishables cool. However, you need to time your trips to make certain that perishable items are being used.

* When I say "take little space," I generally aim to fit all the contents for a meal for 4 adults into one quart-sized Ziploc bag.

How Stuff's Made: Plastic Kayaks

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Thu, 06 Mar 2008 03:48:00 +0000

If you've ever wondered how exactly a plastic kayak is made, here's a short video showing the production of an Easky 15 kayak at the Pyranha / Venture / P&H Sea Kayaks production facility in the U.K.

How about the new lime color for 2008!

Part II: Seats, decklines, etc...

Winter Dreaming of Paddling

noreply@blogger.com (John Tatro) — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 23:29:00 +0000

Well it's snowing and freezing rain today, and I'm dreaming and making plans of paddling shortly. I thought I would share a few photo's from paddling the Pictured Rocks area from the past few years.

View of Miners Castle from overlook and from the water. Miner's Castle lost a turret this last year forever changing its appearance. Remember these formation are all sandstone of various densities and are eroding continuously.

View of Mosquito Beach. It is a flat sandstone shelf, which is fun to time waves so you can be set down of it without getting out of your boat. It also has great campsites.

Josh framed by Lover's Leap Arch.

Paddling just North of Sand Point on our way to Miners Castle.

Chapel Rock just past Chapel Beach.

Battleship row, lots of refracting waves to play in.

Chief's Head

Looking at these helps remind me that summer is coming, just not fast enough! I'm looking forward to two weeks in Georgia paddling at Tybee Island and then circumnavigating Cumberland Island for a week. Until I see you on the water keeping paddling or dreaming.

"Dunking" a Basketball

noreply@blogger.com (Mark Pecot) — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 00:00:00 +0000

Playing around in the pool is a perfect way to keep your skills sharp. Since a pool isn't exactly a dynamic environment, break up the monotony by learning different rolls--anything to break up the routine! One thing you do not want to do is practice every roll with a nice set-up, nose plugs in, etc.. Remember, your practicing to learn how to roll in real conditions; not flat, clear, chlorinated, and warm water. Try rolling with a swamped boat, from a variety of starting positions, swimming to your paddle. I'd also recommend trying to roll with whatever you can get your hands on. Not only will it improve your confidence and comfort, but practice like this helps you develop muscle memory and improve your rolling ability. And, besides you never know when you might find yourself capsizing with a basketball.

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