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<title>Home Orchard Society Forums</title>
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<updated>2012-05-16T18:57:13-07:00</updated>

<author><name><![CDATA[Home Orchard Society Forums]]></name></author>
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<author><name><![CDATA[DonRicks]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-16T18:57:13-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-16T18:57:13-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5261&amp;p=12624#p12624</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5261&amp;p=12624#p12624" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Concord Grapes budding but not growing]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5261&amp;p=12624#p12624"><![CDATA[
Your pictures are good and you should be able to get an answer....if no one has an answer in the next day or two I will see if I can ask a viticulture friend of mine and see if he can answer it.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[DonRicks]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-16T18:47:54-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-16T18:47:54-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5263&amp;p=12623#p12623</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5263&amp;p=12623#p12623" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Kaolin Clay]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5263&amp;p=12623#p12623"><![CDATA[
I am guessing you are talking about protecting apples from codling moth, right?<br /><br />      There are several modes of action for kaolin.  One of them is that it triggers an excessive grooming response from the pest and distracts it.   Theoretically, it would seem that as long as there is kaolin on the surface of the fruit or the tree,   then it should have some effect because I don't think kaolin  would have a break-down  &quot;half-life&quot;  (like Spinosad) or a breakdown due to ultraviolet light.  Kaolin, is after all, only an inert clay particle.<br /><br />       Having said that, I know in Western Oregon you would have to spray kaolin on a regular basis if you wanted crop protection.<br /><br />       Eastern Oregon?  I would imagine you do not need to spray so often....but the truth is I don't know the answer and would like to know how often you need to spray.   Would you be willing to find out and report back to us?   Here's how I would go about finding out.   I would call the Umatilla affiliate for the Oregon State Extension service and ask who is the Extension agent who works with sustainable agriculture and with organic growers of  that area and see if you can talk to them.   There is a phone number on this link:<br /><br />       <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://extension.oregonstate.edu/umatilla/">http://extension.oregonstate.edu/umatilla/</a><!-- m --><br /><br />       There is an excellent chance that they would refer you to  a master gardener......Sometimes master gardeners are good at hunting down the answer and sometimes you simply wish they would connect you with a professional extension agent......<br /><br />        If you can't locate anyone with the Oregon State extension service you might try emailing Todd Murray who works in Hood River, Washington nearby  and see if he would be willing to field the question.  I met him in Seattle and while he isn't working in this field right now,  he might still field the question or at least know someone who would.<br /><br />         Todd Murray <!-- e --><a href="mailto:tmurray@wsu.edu">tmurray@wsu.edu</a><!-- e --> 509.427.3931<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[GordonHogenson]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-15T21:06:51-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-15T21:06:51-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12622#p12622</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12622#p12622" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Scions thicker than rootstock]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12622#p12622"><![CDATA[
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.  I already have some grafts from earlier this year starting to bud out.  Karmijn de Sonneville is definitely budding out.  I'm still waiting on most of the others.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[Galen]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-15T09:37:59-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-15T09:37:59-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12621#p12621</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12621#p12621" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Scions thicker than rootstock]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12621#p12621"><![CDATA[
Looks like I was one day too late, but FWIW in situations where the scion is larger than the rootstock you can still bench graft the two in all but extreme cases.  In doing this try to get a good cambium match on one side of the graft which will make the other side noticeably off.  They say it only takes one cell from the scion and stock to match for the graft to take.  I have had good success focusing on matching cambium on one rather than both sides of bench grafts.  <br /><br />No worries about bench grafting this late in the season, last year we didn't finish until the end of May.  I have also been told that the best time to graft is when you have a scion and a stock, so give it a try and if it fails you can always bud the stock in the summer or re-graft it next winter.<br /><br />Galen<br />Portland, OR<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[dan (or)]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-15T07:17:58-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-15T07:17:58-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5263&amp;p=12620#p12620</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5263&amp;p=12620#p12620" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Kaolin Clay]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5263&amp;p=12620#p12620"><![CDATA[
Anyone using this product,  Kaolin Clay?  I just started this year.  Sprayed the trees X3 and boy did they turn white!<br /><br />So I have a couple of questions....<br /><br />How often do you reapply Kaolin?   I have read after a rain... or irrigation in Eastern Oregon.    As long as the apples are covered they are protected, correct?<br /><br />How long can you spray ?   All summer?   do I stop at some point?<br /><br />Any other tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!<br /><br />Thanks in advance<br /><br /><br />dan or<br />Umatilla, oregon<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[PDXBrian]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-14T22:56:53-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-14T22:56:53-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5243&amp;p=12619#p12619</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5243&amp;p=12619#p12619" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Grape trellis frustration]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5243&amp;p=12619#p12619"><![CDATA[
Thanks for the replies.  Three of my grapes from cuttings growing good in pots for the moment - canadice, himrod, and concord.  I'll try to get my area done and put them in the ground in the fall.  Looking at galvanized fence posts - good tip - didn't know that stuff lasted that long.<br />Brian<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[Rooney]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-14T22:49:04-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-14T22:49:04-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5262&amp;p=12618#p12618</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5262&amp;p=12618#p12618" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Pawpaw pollinators?]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5262&amp;p=12618#p12618"><![CDATA[
I can tell it better if you would come by if your in the area to look at how I do things between my two pawpaws. That is 506 SE 102nd ave, Vancouver, but as you say it would have to be &quot;real&quot; soon while you can still see some of the still greenish flowers. <br /><br />I have flies but even though my two trees are right next to each other the production is less than half of if I was to help. I take a soldering flux paste brush &quot;acid brush&quot; and collect the loose pollen from the most fresh flowers. I transfer to about three other flowers to the other tree to which flowers have not loosened the pollen yet but that the pollen area has changed from green to yellow which is the color stage I believe to be most accurate for female reaction to the pollen you put in it. Frankly it is rather easy if you are accurate or have the experience and have such an acid brush as the bristles are just the right stiffness to collect most of the pollen out of one ripe flower. <br /><br />I have been doing this for about 6 years now and about a dozen trips back and forth yield me pawpaws forming like clusters of banana in those areas of the tree that I did and that the flies didn't do.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[GordonHogenson]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-14T11:47:54-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-14T11:47:54-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12617#p12617</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12617#p12617" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Scions thicker than rootstock]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12617#p12617"><![CDATA[
I ended up purchasing new MM106 apple rootstock for the larger scions, and Pyrus betulifolia for the remaining sections of pear scionwood that I still have to graft.  Might as well do it right!  I don't have a whole lot of experience in this, so my worry now is just doing bench grafting this late in the season.   I do have quite a few grafted trees already growing, and some seem to be starting to bud out.  Whatever happens, I'm learning a lot.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[sweepbjames]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-14T10:34:08-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-14T10:34:08-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5262&amp;p=12616#p12616</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5262&amp;p=12616#p12616" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Pawpaw pollinators?]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5262&amp;p=12616#p12616"><![CDATA[
Last evening prior to dusk, I went out to see the state of flowering on the pawpaws to determine how quickly I need to get my hand pollination mindset in order (right now!!).  A lot of, what I would describe as, fruit fly/ vinegar fly sized critters were milling around on the branches and exterior petals of the pawpaw flower. Seemed like two or three of these 'flys' were on many of the blossoms. Has anyone seen these guys as pollinators? <br /><br />Must be time to acquire a magnifying glass. <br /><br />This morning now in direct sun and warmed up- no evidence of any of last nights population.<br /><br />A few of the furthest out flowers on the branch have dropped their petals and the remaining parts seem to have some light greenish-bluish pollen. Is this old non-viable pollen or is this the working stuff. <br />After last years reading, I think I know that the flowers start out as pollen excepting and later become pollen generating. I am wondering if at this particular  point the pollen in these flowers is past use; or if by some happenstance these are the most readily available collection sites.<br /><br />John? any one  got thoughts / observations to share? <br />Thanks<br /><br />James<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[theengel]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-14T05:52:57-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-14T05:52:57-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5261&amp;p=12615#p12615</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5261&amp;p=12615#p12615" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Concord Grapes budding but not growing]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5261&amp;p=12615#p12615"><![CDATA[
I have a very old vine.  It has produced mass amounts of grapes, and covers a very large arbor.  <br /><br />Last year we got a very small harvest.  Actually, it didn't really give us enough to consider it a harvest at all.<br /><br />This year, we had plenty of blooms, and those all turned into small buds.  The buds made us hopeful, but now that they're growing, it looks like the same thing is happening.  Only a few buds on each bunch actually grow.  The others just drop off.  <br /><br />I'm posting a couple of pictures below to show you what I mean.  The first one shows a bunch that hasn't started growing yet.  The next one shows that a few of the grapes are growing and the rest of the buds just withered or disappeared.<br /><br /><img src="http://i49.tinypic.com/29wlpiv.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br /><img src="http://i45.tinypic.com/21aw95f.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Hopefully someone recognizes this and can tell me what to do about it.  I really appreciate anyone's thoughts.  Thanks.<br /><br />BTW--in case you haven't been able to tell from my post, I am not a gardener.  I have the world's brownest thumb.  But this vine was started by my dad and we always made grape jelly every year with the harvest.  I really want to save this plant.<br /><br />Thanks.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[joek]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-14T00:06:46-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-14T00:06:46-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5260&amp;p=12614#p12614</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5260&amp;p=12614#p12614" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: birdshot plum]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5260&amp;p=12614#p12614"><![CDATA[
I'm no expert, but this article may be of some help for you: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/problems/shot-hole-disease-fungus.htm">http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/problem ... fungus.htm</a><!-- m --><hr />
]]></content>
</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[Victor]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-13T09:51:35-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-13T09:51:35-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12613#p12613</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12613#p12613" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Satsuma Plum Drops Fruit]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12613#p12613"><![CDATA[
THanks for saving me 5 years of waiting!<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-11T22:11:43-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-11T22:11:43-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12612#p12612</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12612#p12612" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Satsuma Plum Drops Fruit]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12612#p12612"><![CDATA[
Yes, I have grown the purple leafed plums at both of my houses in the last 17 years and they do well in wet clay.  I have grafted onto both but only with Asian plums. Yes, long-term compatibility. You might get a few years out of them.  Maybe never any fruit, but just limbs that fall off after 5 years. Not my goal in grafting.<br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[gtrem]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-11T10:41:21-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-11T10:41:21-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5238&amp;p=12611#p12611</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5238&amp;p=12611#p12611" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Newly grafted trees still dormant, or...]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5238&amp;p=12611#p12611"><![CDATA[
I've been working on an old cider orchard in upstate NY.  I also have a small orchard in my yard.  Because there were some great old pear trees in the bigger orchard that weren't producing anything I thought I would graft scions from my smaller orchard onto them and some of the older trees onto my younger ones.  It's been really helpful to hear the word &quot;patience&quot;, because I thought it wasn't working, but yesterday I noticed some of the grafts were leafing out.  It's probably been 6 weeks or so since I performed the work, most of which was during a rare dry spell for the NE.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that some of the other grafts, both pear and apple work.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[Victor]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-11T09:06:48-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-11T09:06:48-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12610#p12610</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12610#p12610" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Satsuma Plum Drops Fruit]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12610#p12610"><![CDATA[
John,<br />Thanks for the warning. I already have a few Brooks grafts on the Satsuma from last year and this year. They seem to be doing very well -- lots of growth. Can you tell me a little more about what the compatability issues are? Do you mean long-term as in tree health and lifespan?<br /><br />We have very heavy, wet clay soil, so I treasure any rootstock that does not die in a few years. Yes, I elevate the trees as much as possible - 10 inches or so. I have noticed that the purple leaf landscaping plums do very well in this soil and was wonder if they would make a good rootstock.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[LKnapp]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-11T08:58:11-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-11T08:58:11-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5251&amp;p=12609#p12609</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5251&amp;p=12609#p12609" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: thinking about raspberries/blackberries]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5251&amp;p=12609#p12609"><![CDATA[
I'm glad you started this thread... I had some of the same questions about raspberries, especially as my neighbor keeps offering me suckers from his patch.   It makes me think of zucchini on the doorstep: those suckers that he needs to give to someone before he is overrun.  Being originally  from the Midwest, I'm always sort of afraid that our lack of hard freezes will create a monster out of some plant that I'm used to seeing as a small ornamental.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[debbiew]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-10T23:42:31-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-10T23:42:31-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5260&amp;p=12608#p12608</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5260&amp;p=12608#p12608" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • birdshot plum]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5260&amp;p=12608#p12608"><![CDATA[
Hi all, I just moved into an urban home in Portland last fall that has a big plum tree (trunk is perhaps 10 inches diameter and tree is 20 feet tall) that provides a screen between my backyard and a small apartment house.  I did notice that the leaves were dotted with tiny holes before they dropped for the fall.  During the winter I  pulled up the black plastic layers under the tree and replaced it with mulch.  In the spring, I pruned out dead wood, suckers, rubbing branches, and branches which headed inwards. I was told not to take more than 20% each year.  I hoped that the tree would be much happier and healthier, but alas, it seemed to have made little difference.  If the tree feels happier with this attention, it has not communicated it through greater health or productivity, although the spring bloom was pretty.  It once again has the tiny brown spots and pinholes in the leaves, which seem too thin and papery, and has only a very little amount of green fruit (which I understand may just mean it needs a pollinator).  It had plenty of blossoms.  Since it is close to my back neighbor's fourplex balconies and patios (in fact some of what I cut  out was actually intruding into one neighbor's balcony by several feet), I am hesitant to do a spray (especially here in Portland).   What else can I do to help revitalize my plum tree?  fertilizer? bt?  I inspected today and don't see aphids and don't know what else I should be looking for.  I had thought that because of its size, it should be able to fend for itself for nutrients, but maybe in its current condition I should try a fruit tree fertilizer.  Are the holes a fungus or some other disease?  I would think a chewing insect would notch the edges of the leaves more than make this little pinholes and this seems like it is the brown spots that are just maturing and dropping out, leaving the holes.   Can anyone give me advice as to what to do please?<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[GordonHogenson]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-10T22:44:25-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-10T22:44:25-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12607#p12607</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12607#p12607" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Scions thicker than rootstock]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5259&amp;p=12607#p12607"><![CDATA[
I mail-ordered apple and pear rootstocks but they are a bit small compared to some of my scionwood. Any suggestions on how to graft them, or should I try to find better-sized rootstocks?<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-10T21:53:13-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-10T21:53:13-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5234&amp;p=12606#p12606</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Satsuma Plum Drops Fruit]]></title>

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Don't graft Brooks Euro plum on Satsuma or Santa Rosa Asian plum.  OK to graft Asian onto Euro, not the other way around. Long -term compatibility issues.  Many plums will actually grow from cuttings.  Try it. I dare ya.<br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2012-05-10T21:51:01-07:00</updated>
<published>2012-05-10T21:51:01-07:00</published>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Coddling Moths on Asian Pears]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5257&amp;p=12605#p12605"><![CDATA[
I didn't get any at first. Then they got heavy. Also true with TLC farm in Lake O.<br />Nice to know that even the wealthy get stung by insects. <img src="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" title="Smile" /><br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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