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<title>Home Orchard Society Forums</title>
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<updated>2013-05-22T23:39:14-07:00</updated>

<author><name><![CDATA[Home Orchard Society Forums]]></name></author>
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<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-22T23:39:14-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-22T23:39:14-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8665&amp;p=17014#p17014</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Caught them in the act!]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8665&amp;p=17014#p17014"><![CDATA[
I think they were tent caterpillars. Nice job dudes.  I have seen a few, but not too many codling moth bites.<br /><br />I also found a huge green caterpillar trying to destroy my baby arctic kiwi, which I promptly killed (the caterpillar, not the kiwi.)<br /><br />Glad I was able to get the bags on almost all the apples and Asian pears already. Many fruit sox have fallen off, with or without the fruit. Maybe with all this extreme rain, we'll have a little break so people can get the bags on the apples before the codling moth gets there.<br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[davem]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-22T16:08:14-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-22T16:08:14-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8665&amp;p=17013#p17013</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Caught them in the act!]]></title>

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I usually see tent caterpillars at the end of summer, not at the beginning.  I have seen yellowjackets/wasps killing tent caterpillars.   They actually carried them off, I was pretty amazed by that.  The wasps had a hard time getting into the tent but I used a stick to open the tent for them <img src="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":-)" title="Smile" /><hr />
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<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[DonRicks]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-22T14:57:34-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-22T14:57:34-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8665&amp;p=17012#p17012</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Caught them in the act!]]></title>

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I don't know if we are talking about the same thing.....<br /><br />     but last year and this year some fruit growers have noticed an unusual number of tent leaf caterpillars.<br /><br />     <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;site=imghp&amp;tbm=isch&amp;source=hp&amp;biw=1024&amp;bih=623&amp;q=western+tent+leaf+caterpillar&amp;oq=western+tent+leaf+caterpillar&amp;gs_l=img.3...2566.8372.0.8548.29.11.0.18.18.0.59.442.11.11.0...0.0...1ac.1.14.img.WP5gVOslXDA#imgrc=dATN46vynWqOfM%3A%3BS3dLEJvkDDmWuM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmedia.bellinghamherald.com%252Fsmedia%252F2013%252F05%252F08%252F14%252F11%252F16zc92.AuSt.39.JPG%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.bellinghamherald.com%252F2013%252F05%252F09%252F3002930%252Fwestern-tent-caterpillars-back.html%3B620%3B485">http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;site ... B620%3B485</a><!-- m --><hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-20T22:39:42-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-20T22:39:42-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8665&amp;p=17011#p17011</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Caught them in the act!]]></title>

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I was putting fruit sox and ziplocs on my apples today. I found leaves that had been eaten so that only the transparent inner fiber was left-no green.  OPening up the cottony white threads, I found small black caterpillars in a few locations. they were pretty speedy and tried to escape. Lots of tiny black dots too. I killed them. Call me a murderer.  I noticed not very much other damage, although I did find some amazingly creepy yellow striped bugs on my Chinese chestnut tree. Killed them too of course. They tried to escape.  Hopefully this means I'm getting them mostly on time.  I have seen some telltale bugbite marks on fruit and of course, I choose to thin those.  If they were just bitten and inserted with eggs, my assumption is that you would not see them.  Of course, when you assume,......<br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[jafarj]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-20T11:07:51-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-20T11:07:51-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5392&amp;p=17008#p17008</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: New Seedling Apple - Miss Jessamine]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5392&amp;p=17008#p17008"><![CDATA[
I grafted mine pretty late.  All 5 or 6 took and look happy.  I'll be interested to see if they are as disease and codling moth free as the ones from the mother tree last year.<hr />
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<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[davem]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-18T23:04:55-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-18T23:04:55-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5392&amp;p=17007#p17007</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: New Seedling Apple - Miss Jessamine]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5392&amp;p=17007#p17007"><![CDATA[
And here is the last blossom, taken 5/5/2013.  So the bloom period this year was 4/23 to 5/5.<br /><br /><img src="http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz238/behindthewaterfall/Apple%20-%20Miss%20Jessamine/DSC_0002_zps34a22219.jpg?t=1368943248" alt="Image" /><hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[sohoppy]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-14T21:01:51-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-14T21:01:51-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8662&amp;p=17006#p17006</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: yellowing of new shoots on plums]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8662&amp;p=17006#p17006"><![CDATA[
Haha, that is probably one of the strangest, yet best suggestions I've ever heard. I don't doubt it one bit though. I have plenty of fertilizer (10-10-10 I think) and more than a healthy supply of urine. Thanks, John.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[Victor]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-13T11:07:07-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-13T11:07:07-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=17005#p17005</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Persimmon Grafting Help]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=17005#p17005"><![CDATA[
Thanks John,<br /><br />This is an established rootstock, since it is left over from last year's failed grafting. It had branched out, so I used some of the branches for grafts and left several to keep the tree going if the grafts failed. This year I did the grafting at the end of March, which may have been too early, as you say. I did another graft on a remaining branch about 3 weeks ago, which did seem like a better time for persimmon grafting (leaves just coming out). So maybe I'll see some action soon.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T21:50:43-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T21:50:43-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=17004#p17004</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Persimmon Grafting Help]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=17004#p17004"><![CDATA[
Hi  Victor,<br />I agree with Viron and Rooney.<br /><br />Don't graft on a newly planted Persimmon. Wait until it has been established from the previous year.  Don't graft it until it has opened a complete leaf- the first one.  In the PNW, this will likely be in May.  Don't let any other branches out compete it, especially on American persimmon.  Also don't let any growth from under the scion grow of course.  Keep it watered on these hot dry days, especially when it's young. I have lost some  from just a couple of days of dry heat. Remember, since we have to wait until it's hot to graft, the sun is much hotter in May than in March, and it can get burned easily. In it's native range, it is hot and rainy in the summer and spring. I think the graft take is actually not any harder than apples, but the other details are crucial.  They do take slowly typically. <br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T21:42:35-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T21:42:35-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8651&amp;p=17003#p17003</id>
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<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: ahhh.....spring time]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8651&amp;p=17003#p17003"><![CDATA[
I just finished my fruit sox for codling moth on my Asian pear tree a few days ago and I noticed many worms and affected leaves.  They didn't have many of the normal bites into the fruit yet, but get going! This rain may slow it a bit, but they're no good after they already have the eggs inside.<br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T21:39:14-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T21:39:14-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8662&amp;p=17002#p17002</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8662&amp;p=17002#p17002" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: yellowing of new shoots on plums]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8662&amp;p=17002#p17002"><![CDATA[
Disease can be strengthened by a lack of balance of what it needs. Yellow foliage is often a sign of lack of nitrogen, and Asian plums have about the highest need for nitrogen of any of the fruit trees. My advice would be to pee on it at the dripline. It;s what I usually do with foliage that is too yellowish green, and it almost always helps.  Many fertilizer lists mention to add &quot;urea&quot; and my thought is that I have a convenient and free source of that nutrient.<br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[John S]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T21:35:32-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T21:35:32-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8660&amp;p=17001#p17001</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8660&amp;p=17001#p17001" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Cold storage of fruit indoors and outdoors]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8660&amp;p=17001#p17001"><![CDATA[
Nice strategy redberry.  I find Don Bae Korean Giant Asian Pear to be an outstanding keeper. I picked them up off the ground when they broke the branch and cold stored them until April or May.  I agree that they arent' the best flavored, but when they keep that well, that can be their niche.  I may make some sauce this year. One mistake I made with the Asian pears last year was to collect them only when they fell, so none lasted very well and many rotted.  I need to get a bit earlier on them this year.<br />John S<br />PDX OR<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[Victor]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T18:17:08-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T18:17:08-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=17000#p17000</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=17000#p17000" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Persimmon Grafting Help]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=17000#p17000"><![CDATA[
Thanks Viron and Rooney!<br /><br />I just posted a reply message and it disappeared somewhere, so am trying again. I'll give these persimmon graft some more time, as you suggest. There is still hope.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[Rooney]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T17:59:11-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T17:59:11-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=16999#p16999</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=16999#p16999" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Persimmon Grafting Help]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=16999#p16999"><![CDATA[
So I'll jump on since it's been two days &quot;deferring&quot; and waiting on the more experienced. <br /><br />J. Lehman is another experienced hand that has over 10 acres of persimmons. You won't find him on this forum and he wrote me so I have to share his experiences about persimmon grafting. Just wait until the bark is &quot;well into the slip&quot;, and Viron is completely right.  <br /><br />So that early like March I think I would be waiting to store scions in the fridge first. Secondly I would use parafilm on the whole scion. Some members including myself have used yellow doc farewells on the whole scion but I will do this no more! <br /><br />What I find is the yellow layer to be very tricky about softening up again to let growth through, and something to be more concerned when bud is not swelling or bursting soon enough. Next year again, I am only using the product for it's intended use of covering only the grafted portion.<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[redberry]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T07:46:32-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T07:46:32-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8657&amp;p=16998#p16998</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8657&amp;p=16998#p16998" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: codling moth 2013]]></title>

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<div class="quotewrapper"><div class="quotetitle">John S wrote:</div><div class="quotecontent"><br />Thanks Don,<br />I normally start putting on my fruit sox and ziplocs during the first week in May. Asian pears are the first ones I do, because they get nailed if you do nothing, and they have the largest fruits first. Good to hear about the correlation between the scientifically measured time and the old school &quot;marble sized&quot; method I use.<br />John S<br />PDX OR<br /></div></div><br /><br />I follow similar timing.  In the past, it was also driven by when I had time due to work and when it wasn't raining!<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[redberry]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T07:30:09-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T07:30:09-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8651&amp;p=16997#p16997</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8651&amp;p=16997#p16997" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: ahhh.....spring time]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8651&amp;p=16997#p16997"><![CDATA[
<div class="quotewrapper"><div class="quotetitle">DonRicks wrote:</div><div class="quotecontent"><br />okay....an update on the weather since I last wrote.....the first couple weeks of May could be unusually dry.....good for pollenation but not for those hating the spotted wing drosophilia fly.<br /><br />    Here is what Rufus says:<br /><br />     &quot;Farm Points: For now, the key issues for growers are, 1) early irrigation, at least during the first half of May and 2) if your operation is fruit based, an SWD program that will need to be up &amp; running to protect early season fruit, should the warm weather extend into late May/June. &gt;&gt; This will be the first truly warm spring weather since the invasive species arrived in 2009, which may set up SWD impacts early in the summer that, frankly, we haven't yet experienced.&quot;<br /><br />        My note:   This could also hasten the time of the arrival of the codling moth this month....more on that later.<br /></div></div><br /><br />Yes, I have thought that the warmer temperatures would be &quot;helpful&quot; to the SWD.  I have noticed that my raspberry canes are quite thick this year and I had meant to transplant some to another area to thin them out to have better access for applying my netted bags.  I also ran out of bags last year and bought material to make more but I haven't done that either!<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[redberry]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-12T07:22:48-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-12T07:22:48-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8660&amp;p=16996#p16996</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8660&amp;p=16996#p16996" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Cold storage of fruit indoors and outdoors]]></title>

<content type="html" xml:base="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8660&amp;p=16996#p16996"><![CDATA[
Last year I had so many Asian Pears and apples (GoldRush and Rubinette) to store that I ended up doing a variety of storage techniques.  I cook and freeze some Asian pears with cinnamon/brown sugar for later consumption.  However, I also try to store as much as possible in the fridge either the everyday kitchen fridge or a small spare one in the basement.  I also stored additional Asian pears (and maybe some of the greener GoldRush apples??)  in cardboard boxes in the basement though I would rotate them into the smaller fridge as space became available.  The basement stays around 50F during the winter.  I focused on consuming the Rubinette apples and Shinseki and Chojuro Asian pears first.  The GoldRush apples and Olympic Asian pears definitely need some cold storage time to enhance flavor.  This year I definitely lost some to rot (mostly Asian pears) by January since I was not eating them fast enough.  Eventually, I shut down the small fridge (saves energy!) and put the remaining GoldRush apples in a bucket and stored them outside under a covered patio since it didn't seem like we'd have hard/long freezes.  This also allowed them to ripen up since they were green ones.  I am now using up the frozen Asian pear &quot;sauce&quot; but I have resorted to buying grocery store fruit.  Otherwise, I went most of the winter w/o needing to buy fruit!<hr />
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</entry>
<entry>
<author><name><![CDATA[Viron]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-10T18:05:13-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-10T18:05:13-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=16995#p16995</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=16995#p16995" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Re: Persimmon Grafting Help]]></title>

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Hi Victor, it’s been awhile since I grafted persimmons, but they were <span style="font-style: italic">Asian persimmons</span> grafted to rootstock provided by our society, which I presumed were <span style="font-style: italic">American seedlings</span>.<br /><br />They were whip &amp; tongue grafts, three trees, and done at what I thought was the optimum time (when I’d acquired both parts after our Spring Exchange).  It may have been four months after I grafted them before they shown any growth!  I’d actually written them off as ‘dead’ and neglected caring for them in a garden bed where grass had nearly choked them out.  Just as I approached with a roto-tiller, ready to churn them under …I noticed some glossy leaves had sprouted – and each one of them lived - two of them now …25 year old producing trees!<br /><br />Once established, they appear to leaf out around the time of our local oaks and are quite ‘conservative’ in comparison to apples.  <span style="font-style: italic">Heat</span> may also have been a factor, and I hadn’t neglected them until I’d given up hope …likely a couple of months after ‘apples’ would have pushed new growth.  But they did it – and I vaguely recall (being a much younger member at the time) describing this to some of our senior members then watching them smile as they told me something like, “They’ll take … you just have to give them time.”<br /><br />So I wouldn’t give up just yet ~  But I’ve also come to feel nearly every deciduous fruit tree has better odds of success when budded.  …you don’t see commercial nurseries messing around with whip &amp; tongue grafts..   But often the timing works best for us; dormant rootstock and available scions.  Now any more, I’m ready and willing to defer to several other members whose grafting experience beyond ‘the usual suspects’ exceeds my own – so keep a lookout for their answers.<hr />
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<author><name><![CDATA[sohoppy]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-09T17:18:25-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-09T17:18:25-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8662&amp;p=16994#p16994</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8662&amp;p=16994#p16994" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • yellowing of new shoots on plums]]></title>

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I have 2 Japanese plum trees, one is a Santa Rosa and the other is unknown, but probably either Satsuma or Santa Rosa. Basically all the new growth has started to turn yellow and wilt. It hasn't started to affect older growth yet though. I've had a fairly wet spring and I haven't needed to do any supplemental watering. I also have clay soil, although it drains pretty well. My only guesses are either brown rot (but I see no brown spores on the declining foliage) or phytophthora root rot. I can probably post some pictures tomorrow, but just based on that description can anyone say what this problem likely is?<hr />
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<author><name><![CDATA[Victor]]></name></author>
<updated>2013-05-08T09:48:35-07:00</updated>
<published>2013-05-08T09:48:35-07:00</published>
<id>http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=16993#p16993</id>
<link href="http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8661&amp;p=16993#p16993" />
<title type="html"><![CDATA[General Forum • Persimmon Grafting Help]]></title>

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While I have had pretty close to 100% success grafting apples and plums, my persimmon grafts have all failed. Do persimmons require some special grafting techniques? I found one source online that recommended chip grafting persimmons. I have tried chip budding along with whip &amp; tongue grafts in early spring with dormant scions. Is here a better way or time? It seems like persimmon scion wood tends to deteriorate pretty fast, so that could be a factor too.<br /><br />Any suggestions would be appreciated!<hr />
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