Flour Tortillas

I hand-roll somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 flour tortillas and press around 200 corn tortillas per market week.  The recipe for the flour tortillas was created in collaboration with my Grandma Rose, who made them with love for her whole life – she didn’t have a written-down recipe, so when I wanted to take the recipe with me to college, I had to watch her make them, then scoop up each ingredient, measure it, and write it down. It took a few tweaks, but the recipe I use today is all her.  It takes me about 2 hours to make 100 tortillas, from start to finish.  I make 12.5 batches of 8 tortillas each per tortilla making day.  I have tried doubling and tripling the recipe to unacceptable results,

so I have stuck to a system of making 8-tortilla batches over and over again to ensure that each tortilla is perfect. I love the rhythm of making the 100 balls of dough, then smashing them flat and rolling them out, then hustling them over to the hot griddles, then over to cool on racks before we package them for sale. It is routine now, but every time I make them, I find I am a little better at making them round, and less like the shape of some South American country.  I have learned that that initial smash is crucial, and a technique that Grandma tried to teach me decades ago, but that I just really understood this week. I am amazed by the revelations I can still have making something so humble, simple and delicious as a warm flour tortilla.

Corn Tortillas

Corn tortillas are gluten free (we only cook them on days we don’t use any flour in the kitchen, so that they remain GF), and are made with corn masa or maseca (a contraction of masa - corn, and seca - dry). Maseca is created through a process called nixtamalization, derived from the Nahuatl word for taking dried corn kernels and treating them with slaked lime (alkali solution), making the hulls easy to remove, making the corn easier to grind, and making niacin available for nutritional purposes. I love working with maseca, as it is so easy to clean up, and I can double and triple the recipes to no detriment. Also, the house smells incredible as the little tortillas are toasting on our griddles. Nothing quite like the smell of toasty corn!  We use the corn tortillas exclusively for our enchiladas, which are made with Shelburne Farms cheddar and handmade rojo sauce. So simple, so delicious, so satisfying. Plus, you get to practice saying the word nixtamalization, which feels so cool on your tongue…

Chile Rojo

Every time I set out to make rojo sauce, I feel like I’m making something secretive. I have no written-down version of this recipe, I just simply know how to make it. This is one instance where I never second-guess amounts, ingredients, or the final product; because I know it will be delicious and perfect every time. The process to make rojo sauce is so specific and so hands-on. First, you must start by cleaning the pods – yes, that means hand-cleaning each one individually with a slightly moistened cloth to remove all traces of dust or soil. Next, you break each pod open, shake out all the seeds, and remove the stems.
 Then, you tear each pod into 1 inch pieces, then place them all on a baking sheet and preheat your oven broiler to low. When you have all your chiles cleaned, de-seeded, de-stemmed and torn on a baking sheet, you are ready to toast them. This is a very careful step and you must not be distracted while doing it, or in a matter of seconds the chiles will be scorched and all will be ruined. I really cannot tell you exactly when they are done – I just know they smell a certain way, and look slightly toasty and not at all burnt. The whole toasting process takes 90 seconds or less.

The human experience is so important here, you need to watch the chiles carefully, toss them when they are ready and smell them for that exact moment of doneness.

I am convinced machines will never be able to do this; the experience is so reliant on your senses.  When the chiles are all toasted, put them in a bowl with some minced garlic and salt, and cover with boiling water. Let sit until chiles are rehydrated and water is room temperature. The next step is a matter of some contention in my family.  Really this next step finds people in one of two camps: blender or  a mano (by hand). My dad swore that if you used the blender, you got bitter rojo. I happen to agree, but a mano takes. forever.  Making rojo sauce a mano requires you to massage the flesh of the chile from the skins and keep on massaging until all you have left is a handful of chile skins, which get discarded and bowl of delicious red sauce.

If you make rojo this way, you are also the proud owner of one warm, red hand. I leave the a mano technique for special small batches of eggs and fried potatoes, but for the 8 quart batch I make for market – you guys get a hybrid version of the two techniques, and a very happy medium, if I do say so myself: blender to simulate massaging of flesh from skin, then strain out the skins through a fine mesh tamis or sieve. This yields a great rojo, deep red and not bitter at all. Plus, I come away from the project with un-stained hands.  We use rojo sauce for our enchiladas, and also to add to the posole, a special hominy and beef stew, which is an ancient and religious experience.  I think of it as a Meso-American Pho – which really shines with that rojo sauce and all the condiments that top it; perfect with 2 warm flour tortillas.

Deep in the heart of winter, we are left with our own thoughts (hopefully in front of a fire), thinking about the things we love best – old family recipes, smells that warm your home and heart with memories, promise of dishes that satisfy, and hopefully new recipes that inspire and give you the gift of new words like nixtamalization. Happy New Year!

This year has even deeper symbolism to us here at Half Pint Farm. 2012 harkens 20 years that Spencer and I have been together, 15 years of marriage, 10 years of Half Pint Farm, 5 years of our Food Club, and year one of our prepared food business! Such milestones, it’s hard to not be a tiny bit reflective, marvel at the number 5, and wonder what the next 5 years have in store for us. An auspicious forecast…welcome 2012!

To that end, we grow hundreds of hot pepper plants at the farm, including, but not limited to chiles de arbol, hot paper lanterns, numex joe e. parkers, poblanos, bhut jolokia (yep, that’s the ghost pepper), rocotillo, aji, jalapeños, chiltepins, really anything you can think of.  It’s an obsession – and one that I am proud to share with anyone that will care to walk down that fiery path with me. I have often heard naysayers proclaim, “food that is too spicy is just not fun – I can’t enjoy the flavor of the food”. Ponder this: perhaps food that has anywhere from a sparkle to an inferno is really elevating the food to another level. It is worth trying again – you can start with just a dab.

Chile Garlic Paste

Makes ¼ cup

• 20 dried chiles de arbol pods (or other dried hot chile)
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. white vinegar
• ½ tsp. salt
• 1 T. water

1. De-stem and de-seed chile pods and place in a small bowl.
2. Cover pods with enough water to cover. Let re-hydrate for 20 minutes or so.
3. Drain chiles and add to a bullet blender
4. Add remaining ingredients and blend.
5. Spoon into jar that seals tight.

MARKET: Probably the thing that has been taking the bulk of our energy has been the new venture as prepared food vendors at the Burlington Winter Farmers’ Market.  We had our first market this past Saturday, and are happy to report that we had a great market on so many levels, not to mention selling out of nearly everything! It was so wonderful to see all of our customers again, and to feed them in an all-new way. The burritos were well-received, relieving my mind and heart of some intense nervousness of late.  As the date of the first winter farmers’ market grew nearer, I grew increasingly nervous about sharing food that is so near and dear to my heart. I know it’s good. I know it’s prepared with love and care. I know that the ingredients are the best I can find. I have generations to back me up on its authenticity, but I was so nervous about putting my heritage on a plate, and putting it out there to be judged. Luckily, everyone we spoke with seemed happy, nearly all plates came back empty, and the surprise hit of the day was my simple and elemental favorite: bowl of green chile with a side of 2 homemade tortillas. Well-done, people! You honed in on the prize, and my heart is better for it. Thank you! Can’t wait for the next one on November 19th!

WINDOWS: We have also during this crazy time of getting ready for market, been readying our home for winter by installing new windows! This was something we had set money aside for years ago, and have finally gotten around to it.  Luckily, this project coincided with Nancy & Garth’s visit (Spencer’s mom and stepdad) – these guys are our trusty sidekicks when it comes to big farm or house projects, and this was yet another one we decided to tackle together. It went smoothly, all in all, and (as always), it is the finishing that takes the longest – we’re almost done with the interior trim (which we decided to sand and re-varnish), but it should all be done in the next few days, and we’ll be ready for real winter to come!  I must say, it was immediately evident the second the windows went in how badly we needed them. We have no street noise now, the house temperature is staying regulated, and there is no eerie rattling of the panes. Nice.  Even though our visits with Nancy & Garth are normally project-focused, we did manage to go out and do some geo-caching, which introduced us to some new walking trails for the dogs, and to a new (to us) hobby. So fun!

FARM CLEAN-UP: To say that we have been unmotivated to do our normal clean-up regimen this year is a colossal understatement. Irene really left the farm a big dirty mess, and that silt persisted until now. There is so much to do still, but we’ll get to it. I’m allowing myself to just let it happen on my desire-clock, and to not force it. We did manage to take down the plastic from the Haygrove with little fanfare – and we decided what was ok to eat and what wasn’t. The tips of the kale are sweet and delicious, the carrots that are not rotten are absolutely scrumptious, ALL the beets, sweet potatoes, and turnips are the best they’ve ever been, and the jerusalem artichokes are – well – let’s just say I’m keeping their location to myself this year; they are stellar.  The deer have had their way with most of the roots and all of the chicories.  It’s just as well, really – somebody should be eating like kings, and I have decided that is going to be us, the deer and anyone that has a bucket, knife, gloves, some time, and a little space in their cellar to store some produce for winter.

For now, we are looking forward to the first snowfall, frost-sweetened greens, cozy meals with friends, and the delicious season of Thanksgiving, which is right around the corner. Feels good to sync back up with the season that is upon us.

Caldo Verde, serves 4

• 1# lacinato kale, mid-ribs removed and leaves chiffonaded
• ½# Spanish dry-cured chorizo, or linguiça sausage, about 1 package
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 T. olive oil
• 1 pound peeled, cubed russet potatoes
• 1 quart chicken stock
• 1 quart water
• salt and pepper to taste

Heat stock pot on medium heat with 1 T. olive oil, until it shimmers.
Add chorizo to oil and saute until it has released some of its
red oil into the olive oil, and become fragrant.
Using a slotted spoon, remove chorizo and set aside.

Add remaining 1 T. olive oil to pan (yes, add oil to the oil)
and saute the onions and garlic until transluscent.
Add ¼ tsp. each salt and pepper at this time.

Add chopped potatoes to oily onions and garlic, stir to coat.
Add chicken stock and bring up to boiling.
Simmer for 15-20 minutes or until potatoes are fork-tender.

Using a potato masher, mash approximately half the potatoes in the pan,
creating a creamy look to the soup.
Leave half the potatoes chunky.

Add chiffonaded kale to the pot, and stir to coat.
This will take 2 batches since the kale has so much volume.
Add water and chorizo to the pot (reserving a few chunks to
top when serving), and bring to a boil.
Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until you can’t stand it anymore.
Season to taste – it will need salt.

Serve topped with a few chunks reserved chorizo for crunchiness,
and with some hot crusty bread and butter for happiness.
Really nice with a pinot noir. Enjoy!

We are finally posting here on the blog to let you know that we have been very busy, not with farm clean up so much (yeah, we’ll get to that), but with working on our new seasonal venture that we will be bringing to you each winter. We are back at it, albeit in a new capacity, and will be at the Burlington Winter Farmers’ Market starting November 5th! We present to you: Half Pint Farm’s Table, the prepared foods arm of our little farm! We will be preparing and serving breakfast burritos and bean burritos from scratch, veggie and meat versions of both! Yes, we are making the tortillas by hand!

Why burritos? One thing that’s for sure is that when I feel down, stressed out, or am at a loss for something, I always turn to the comfort of cooking. I love the reassuring predictability of the process of combining certain ingredients to create a perfect result.  Flour + oil + baking powder + salt = warm fluffy tortillas.  Soaked new crop pinto beans + salt + water = pot o’ delicious beans.  Pork + green chile + tomatoes + garlic + onions = green chile stew.  Add a handful of cheese, shredded lettuce and onions… smothered burrito, comfort on a plate! Being from Colorado originally, we pine for the smothered burrito, and we will now be bringing this food that is near and dear to our hearts to you!

Truth be told, we’ve been thinking of bringing burritos to Burlington for a long time, but we were waiting for the perfect moment, which, thanks to Irene, has arrived! Due to a little foresight on our part, all of the green chiles, tomatoes, onions, garlic, herbs, and some of the red chile that will be in the burritos are also from the farm or from our home garden. We have sourced all other ingredients from farmers at the farmers’ market including pork, potatoes, eggs and cheese. There are two ingredients that we will not be sourcing locally. The iceberg lettuce for one, because let’s face it; burritos are just not the same without the crispy crunch of iceberg. That, and the pinto beans.  I have never enjoyed other beans in burritos, and (not without begging several farmers to grow them for me), no Vermont farmers grow them. So, I have partnered with a farm that my family has been getting beans and green chiles from for generations, my aunt Kathy and uncle Tom picked them up for me (200#!) and Spencer’s mom and stepdad drove them to Vermont for us! And now we get to share them with you!

We are very grateful for all the donations to us directly, and to the Intervale Farmers’ Recovery Fund in particular.  Humbled by all this generosity, we have been wanting to do something real, far-reaching and build our capacity in our chosen vocation.  And so, we have decided to take the donations and completely re-invest them back into Half Pint Farm and diversify our operation in a delicious way!

So, come join Half Pint Farm’s Table on November 5th at Memorial Auditorium and let us smother a burrito for you or serve you a bowl of comforting green chile made with our produce and some of those fluffy tortillas made by hand with the same amount of love we devote to farming!

Thanks again for all the support, and we can’t wait to see you at market!

• See us at the Burlington Farmers’ Market starting Saturday, November 5th, 10am – 2 pm at Memorial Auditorium.
• We are interested in doing limited catering this winter – email us at weltons@halfpintfarm.com if you are interested.
• All of these photos were beautifully crafted by the übertalented Jessica Bongard, excellent chef and artful food photographer. Check out her website and catering business at: plumpestpeach.com
• And now, I’m off to sort some beans!

I know, I know.  By the end of the summer we are all a little zucchini-d out, and can hardly think of anything else we’d like to do with it.  The usual repertoire of zucchini breads and all manner of grilled or roasted zucchinis have become tired and you are more than ready to call it a season where zucchini is concerned.

But wait! Don’t let summer pass you by without one last one-skillet dish that will have you wishing you had done this all summer long!  Let this be the dish that leaves you wanting more zucchini, and wishing your tired old squash plants have one more squash left in them.

Calabacitas

Serves 4 (or in my house, 2)

• 2 medium zucchinis and/or summer squashes, chopped into half-moons, ½ inch thick
• 6 anaheim chiles, roasted, peeled, chopped, or 2 small cans of chopped green chiles
• 1 clove garlic, minced into a paste
• 1 or 2 strips of bacon (optional), chopped
• 1 small onion, chopped
• corn kernels from 2 fresh ears of corn, or ½ c. frozen kernels
• 1-2 T. olive oil, if needed
• salt and pepper to taste

1. Roast, peel, chop your anaheim chiles (or empty cans into a bowl) and mix well with the garlic and some salt.  Set aside.
2. Cook bacon (if using) in a frying pan until crispy.  Using a slotted spoon, remove bacon and set aside.
3. Return frying pan to medium heat and add onion to bacon fat.  Sauté until fragrant and translucent, avoiding browning.
4. Add squashes to pan and raise heat to medium-high.  You may need to add some olive oil to coat squashes.  Stir at intervals that allow the squashes to brown slightly between stirrings.
5. When squashes are cooked through, and have released some of their water, add corn kernels and cook until heated through.
6. Add chile mixture to the pan and stir until heated through.
7. Add bacon (if using) back to pan and stir until heated through.
8. Add salt and pepper to taste.
9. Serve as an incredible side dish to anything, on its own, over eggs for breakfast, in a quesadilla with cheese.  Trust me.  You cannot go wrong.
10. Enjoy!

We wanted to thank everyone for the outpouring of kindness and well-wishes and offers to help this past week in the wake of Hurricane Irene.  We wanted to let everyone know that there will be much work to do in the clean-up process once we find out more about what we are allowed to harvest post-flood.  We will be contacting you and asking for your help in the very near future about physical labor assistance.  Thanks for being willing to help in any way!

At the moment, the best way to help is to consider making contributions to one of many relief funds.  There is a list below of Intervale Specific Funds to help you decide where to donate.  We are completely humbled  by your generosity, and cannot thank you enough.  We love farming, and fully expect to be back at it as soon as we can!  Thanks ever so much for your support!

• Stick a Fork In It! Chef-for-Farms Bacchanalia – THIS SUNDAY!
• Intervale Center Farmers Recovery Fund
• Burlington Farmers’ Market Silent Auction – every Saturday in September 8:30-2 City Hall Park
• City Market 1% of proceeds from now until September 16th go to the Intervale Center’s Fund!
• Kitchen Table Bistro in Richmond 434-8686, benefit dinner Wednesday, Sept. 7th and Thursday, Sept. 8th.
• Champlain College Presents Burlington Ensemble to benefit Intervale Farmers Recovery Fund, Saturday, Sept. 10th. 6-10 pm.
• Mary’s Inn at Baldwin Creek in Bristol 453-2432. Dinner this Saturday, Sept. 10th.  We will be doing one of their Table Talks, speaking about our farm, and our involvement with Slow Food.  Doug just informed us that a portion of the proceeds will go to the Intervale Farmers Recovery Fund.
• Dine to help Burlington’s Farms! Sunday, Sept. 25th. RSVPs only.  Local everything being served, including beer and wine.

Again, thank you so much for your support!

Your farmers, Mara & Spencer Welton

Spencer drove back to the barn complex with the van, returning with a tractor and wagon to ferry out us and all of our volunteers.  As we drove out of our field, we could see that we had indeed run out of time – our road was rapidly eroding with the rushing water, and the height of the water was rising faster than I imagined it could.  By the time we reached the barn, the water was significantly up the tractor tires.

We were greeted by Intervale Center staff that made the refrigerated truck available to the farmers to move produce from our collective cooler, which was in danger of getting flooded as well.  We bucket-brigaded all our produce from the cooler to the truck, then helped other farmers do the same with their produce to other cooler storage at the Calkins house.  With all of our produce safely in cool storage, there was nothing to do but watch the water rise and speculate.

There were dozens of volunteers that came out to help the collective farm saving effort.  We cannot thank enough Alyssa, Aaron, Kendra and Asa who came out to help us early in the morning to help us on our farm on this troubling day.  THANK YOU!

So.  What now? We still are unable to reach our farm fields, as the water is still feet deep in most areas, though it is receding and we are sure that we will be able to get out there tomorrow, even though it will probably be on foot due to severe road erosion.  As far as our season, we are hopeful as always. We may still have enough weeks of decent daylight to replant crops like arugula, salad, radishes, etc. Perhaps some crops will pull through after all…. perhaps the season is effectively over?  It is so hard to say at this point. We are really hoping to fulfill our responsibilities to our Food Club members (17 families) and our Senior Farm Share members (66 seniors) for their remaining weeks in their respective programs.  Of course our chefs, caterers and grocer are at the top of our minds at all times as well.  We will do our very best to continue to serve you to the best of our abilities, and hopefully, we’ll have a long autumn after this challenging and ever-shocking season!

We’ll keep posting updates here, so check back often. We will be at Farmers’ Market in the New North End on Thursday, and at the Burlington Farmers’ Market in City Hall Park on Saturday.  Come on down and stock up! We’d love to see you!

P.S. As we have had little time to prepare for this flood, I have been remiss in taking photos.  The placeholder photo on this blog post is from earlier floods in the season – not this flood.  I’m hoping to take pictures from the field tomorrow.

DATE: Sunday, August 21st, 2011
TIME: 4pm
PRICE: $60/adult, $25/child
BYOB
Directions to Half Pint Farm
RSVP at 802-434-8686

DINNER UPDATE 8/21: This event is sold out!! Thank you! We are excited for our dinner this evening! This event is rain or shine – we have a contingency plan for rain, so don’t worry about the weather.  We will be dining in one of our hoophouses this evening, which is spacious and covered.  Looking forward to seeing all of you!

~ Mara & Spencer