Hamsterology

Facts About Baby Hamster

2021-06-17T09:34:00.001-04:00

Did your hamster get pregnant? If you are preparing for baby hamsters, it’s important to know what’s to come and what you should do, so your hamster doesn’t get pregnant again (or the baby hamsters!).

If your hamster is pregnant and you know the arrival should be any day now, you may be wondering what you are in for and what you should plan on doing to ensure everything goes smoothly.

We spoke with Erin Ramsey, breeder and co-founder of the California Hamster Association, and Dr. Micah Kohles, DVM, MPA, a co-founder of Flatwater Veterinary Group and the VP of technical services and research for Oxbow Animal Health in Omaha, Nebraska, and got 23 facts about baby hamsters.

Hamster babies, called pups, grow very rapidly.
All hamsters are born naked and blind.
When hamsters are about a week old, their teeth emerge from their gums and their hair become visible. After about five days of being born, the pigmentation on their skin begins to show, Ramsey says.
Between 10 and 14 days, hamster pups voluntarily become mobile.
Hamsters can start to eat solids at 10 days old, Ramsey says. At around 14 to 15 days, hamsters should still be nursing from their mother, but they can experiment with different foods, like small amounts of fruit, veggies, seeds and their adults’ food, explains Kohles.
14 days of age is “the ideal time to begin to familiarize your young hamster with being handled,” says Kohles. This should be a thoughtful process where you can help desensitize them to handling to minimize the stress of the baby hamsters. Don’t just go right in and pick up the hamster right away, he says.
At around 14 to 17 days of age, their eyes begin to open. “Hamsters don’t see well and are color blind, but they are able to see,” says Kohles.
At around 17 to 18 days old, Ramsey says that a baby hamster’s ears will pop up.
At around 3 to 4 weeks of age, hamsters resemble miniature adults.
It’s not uncommon for Syrian hamsters to continue to nurse from their mother until the 26th to 28th day after they were born.
Dwarf hamsters are weaned by their mother earlier than Syrians, at about three weeks, but a dwarf mother may tolerate her pups a little longer than a Syrian mother.
At about 4 weeks old, all hamster babies should be split from the mother into two cages—one for each sex. Some hamster mothers might allow the females to stay for a day or two more. “It is natural behavior in the wild for the mother to push the pups out into the wild. Our goal is to emulate natural behavior/environment in everything we do,” says Kohles.
If the dwarf father remained in the cage, mating will likely occur soon after birth—as little as three to four days, so a new litter of hamsters could appear when the first litter is about 3 weeks old. To avoid unintended pregnancies, it is suggested to remove the father hamster from the cage. This isn’t a concern with the Syrian species because they’re solitary and shouldn’t share a cage.
Male dwarfs (if the female allows him into the nest) may make excellent fathers and help with baby-sitting duties. Siblings from the previous litter will also help if the mother hamster allows them to remain in her cage. Remember to remove the first litter from the cage by the time they are 4 weeks old to avoid any more unplanned pregnancies!
At 4 to 5 weeks, all hamster species are fully weaned and capable of fending for themselves.
Hamsters of the Syrian species are normally sexually mature as early as 4 weeks of age—a female Syrian hamster can conceive, and a male Syrian hamster can father a litter. If you don’t separate the sexes in time, get ready for more litters!
You can house same sex Syrians together from for their first four to six weeks of life, says Ramsey. Having them live with siblings up until six weeks is important so they can learn what pain is by playing and wrestling with their siblings, she says.
By 5 to 7 weeks of age, the fur on Syrian longhaired males (if going to develop a good “skirt”) will be much longer than the fur of longhaired females of the same age. Groom a longhaired male hamster with a soft brush or small comb when it’s young to get it used to the process of removing mats and tangles. The task of grooming will then be easier when the hamster reaches old age.
Dwarf hamsters appear to mature sexually later than Syrians if paired with a mate of the same age — usually at about 3 to 4 months of age. However, there are exceptions. Litters are conceived when the female is around 8 to 9 weeks old, so there isn’t the same urgency to split the sexes as with Syrian hamsters. If a female dwarf is paired with an older male, however, conception can take place.
Unlike the territorial Syrian, dwarf hamsters can live together in single-sexed pairings or colonies. Once they mature at around 12 weeks of age, however, fights can occur that may cause serious injury. In such a case, you must split the pair into separate cages or, in the case of a colony, remove the one being bullied to a separate cage.
At 12 weeks of age, Syrian hamsters can be six to eight inches long, so some of them may outgrow the exercise wheel you first purchased. Small wheels can force a hamster to arch its back too far and may cause injury. Purchase a larger wheel immediately if you notice your hamster arching its back while running in the wheel.
Never use a wire wheel for Syrians. If you don’t use the proper wheel, a Syrian hamster’s long hair could get caught in the spindle and be pulled or painfully trap the hamster. Syrians need a nine inch or larger wheel. They also have saucers that can be used that are chinchilla sized. Never take away a wheel unless they are sick or have an injury.
As far as housing goes, the bigger the cage, the better. “The California Hamster Association along with many online hamster groups recommend a minimum of 450 square inches of unbroken space,” Ramsey says.

Children and Pets - Very Important Lessons

2016-03-22T22:38:00.000-04:00

Your child's furry friend is so cute and cuddly. But there is so much more to caring for a hamster than enjoying the cuteness. Based on our family's experiences, there are many important life lessons kids can learn from hamster care. While this wasn't our intention when the kids began rescuing hamsters, we quickly learned that hamsters can teach kids a thing or two. This contributed to the decision to continue hamster rescues whenever we have room.

Firmly drive home the 'be gentle' lesson.This is a lesson parents try to instill in their kids from the start. Being gentle with people, objects, and animals is such an important life lesson. Caring for a hamster really shows the kids firsthand that it's important to be gentle. Because hamsters are so small, it is easier for a child to understand exactly why being gentle is important. You would think that the gentle lesson would end with the hamsters. But that's not the case at all in our house. Once the kids started caring for hamsters, they became more gentle in other situations as well.

Animals have feelings, too. Before caring for a pet, many kids don't automatically assume or realize just how much a pet can feel. The first hamster my kids adopted taught this lesson very well. He came from a home where he was abused and neglected. Because of this, he was very sad and aggressive. My kids learned that with lots of love and attention, even the most vulnerable animals (and people) can change. Animals have feelings just like we do and when you don't acknowledge that, things can go very wrong very quickly.

Cleanliness matters. Because hamster cages must be cleaned at least once or twice per week, kids will quickly learn that cleanliness is key. Not only will the cage look and smell bad, but hamsters are not very happy when they have dirty cages. Cleaning the hamster cage consistently made my kids think deeper about cleaning their own spaces. I noticed them cleaning more often than usual without me asking once they started cleaning up after the hamsters.

Timing is everything. If you don't feed a hamster, clean the cage, and give fresh water on schedule, you're going to have a very tired, hungry, dirty (and possibly worse) hamster on your hands. My kids knew from the very beginning that these things and other routine care were a must. Staying on track with the hamster care has taught my kids to stay on track with other things as well.

Budgeting makes a difference. When the kids are made to track just how much a pet hamster eats, as well as what resources are used, it gets them thinking. I let my kids add up exactly how much food, bedding, treats, toys, and other necessities cost each month. Each child knows how much it costs to take care of their pet. We have a limit as to how many animals are allowed. The kids also know that the amount needed for pet care is a must in each month's budget. Once they reach a certain age, this amount (and any other hamster care fees necessary) will be their responsibility and they are aware of this. Not only does this help teach kids responsibility, but budgeting is a lesson they will need for survival.

Hamster Health - Part 2

2015-01-21T14:28:00.003-05:00

itching (Pruritus)
An itchy hamster will scratch and even damage its skin (self-trauma). This makes the irritation worse and an itch-scratch cycle may develop.

Demodex hamster mites are by far the most common cause of pruritus and self-trauma in hamsters. All hamsters carry a few mites in their skin, just as we all carry Demodex human mites. This has nothing to do with poor care or hygiene, and hamster mites will not infect people. Only when a hamster is old, ill, stressed or immunocompromised do the mites multiply and produce an infestation (called demodicosis) with signs including scratching, flaky or scabby skin and hair loss.

You cannot prevent hamsters from acquiring mites because they pick them up from their mothers during suckling. Infestation can occur later, however, when the hamster is ill, old or suffers any weakening of its immune system — only then will you notice a problem.

Your veterinarian can easily treat mites using prescribed oral, injectable or “spot-on” drugs. Often, elderly hamsters get a minor mite problem and this can be kept at bay with regular treatment. The underlying cause will not go away, however, and if treatment is discontinued the infestation may recur and spread or worsen. Ask your vet about retreating at home. Never use a treatment designed for dogs and cats on your hamster because it could kill your pet.

Occasionally, hamsters pick up other parasites such as sarcoptid mites, tropical rat mites, cat fleas or lice. These respond to the same treatment as Demodex, but ask your veterinarian to identify which parasite is involved, because other animals in your household may also need treatment.

Bacterial skin infections can also cause pruritus and skin problems. Prescription antibiotics from your vet clear up such ailments.

Allergies occasionally cause scratching and self-trauma, but identifying the cause can be tricky. Try changing bedding to unbleached, shredded toilet paper and watch for a reduction in scratching. Other causes may be dyes in hamster food, aerosols and cage-cleaning chemicals, so these should be investigated. Avoid cedar bedding, any type of aerosol spray and ask your veterinarian about safe cage disinfectants.

Malnutrition
A hamster’s proper diet varies a bit by species. If a hamster is allowed to select out its favored treats and isn’t forced to eat a balanced diet, or if it isn’t offered a proper diet, it will develop nutritional deficiencies. Obesity is a common condition, and it results from hamsters that eat too many seeds and high carbohydrate treats and not enough grass, hays and other high-fiber foods. As a general rule, seeds are low in protein, vitamin A and vitamin E, and high in sugars and fats. Some hamsters, such as Roborovski hamsters, are more prone to protein deficiencies on a high-seed diet than other species, and show this with poor hair coat, poor fertility, poor growth and aggression. In all hamsters, vitamin A deficiency can cause dry skin and poor fertility and growth. A lack of vitamin E may lead to lameness, muscle weakness, heart disease, poor fertility and sudden death.

Follow the nutritional guidelines appropriate for your hamster’s species. Remember, hamsters are omnivores and need high-quality protein in their diet.

Malocclusion
Hamster incisors (front teeth) grow continuously and sometimes overgrow and require trimming. The rate of growth varies by individual, age and angle of the teeth. Check the teeth daily for overgrowth. Trimming is usually only required every two weeks, if needed.

Ask your vet to explain the normal appearance of the incisors. Most pet owners have a veterinarian trim overgrown teeth.

Hamster teeth are normally curved, yellow to orange and don’t extend into the gums. A pair of incisors grow down from the upper jaw and a pair grow up from the lower jaw. The upper pair is longer. Hamsters have three molars and no premolars.

For general tooth health, avoid giving sugary snacks (hamsters are prone to tooth decay), ensure babies get enough calcium by using a hamster-specific food and keep checking the teeth! Offer dog biscuits or nuts in shells to wear down your hamster’s teeth if its normal food isn’t rough enough.

Mange, demodecosis

This hamster has hair loss on its nose from an infestation of mites.
Click image to enlarge.

A hamster may develop hair loss due to an infestation of mites belonging to the genus Demodex. These mites are normally found in the skin of healthy hamsters. If a hamster is stressed or debilitated from another illness, it may suddenly develop hair loss and crusty skin because the mites start to grow their population unchecked by the hamster’s immune system. The hair loss and crust is most often seen along the hind legs, but demodecosis may cause similar lesions anywhere on the body.

A veterinarian may diagnose demodecosis by scraping the skin, smearing the crust and hair onto a glass microscope slide, and examining it at high magnification (100 to 400x). Sometimes it may take multiple scrapings to find the cigar-shaped Demodexmites. As a general rule, if they are easy to find, they are likely contributing to the hair loss. If there are no mites found, or if only one or two are found, there may be something else wrong with your hamster.

Demodecosis responds well to daily or weekly treatments of oral ivermectin. Other medications have been used, such as selamectin and amitraz. Your veterinarian may suggest other diagnostic tests or treatments, because demodecosis usually is associated with other health problems.

Physical Trauma (Bites, Falls)

Trauma includes bite wounds suffered from a hamster's cagemate.
Click image to enlarge.

Syrian hamsters will attack each other and should never be housed together as adults. Even the sociable dwarf hamsters can have quarrels. These may cause bite injuries, superficial or severe. The first bites are usually sustained on the belly as the less dominant hamster rolls over to display submission. Young hamsters usually nibble at ears in a fight. Youngsters also suffer nonspecific trauma to their ears. Bites are also commonly seen on the scrotums of competing males, which generally target the torso in a fight.

Separating the hamsters is the only way to prevent trauma from a fight. More space and lower light intensity can prevent aggression in some cases (dwarf hamster species only).

Minor bites that merely graze the skin and are not bleeding severely can be washed to prevent infection. Add a tablespoon of salt to a liter of water and bring this to a boil, then allow it to cool completely while covered with cling wrap. With a cotton ball, dab the salt water on the bites, trying not to wet the surrounding skin. This may sting, so be prepared in case your hamster jumps, nips or wriggles. Check the skin daily for signs of redness or swelling, and see your vet if these develop.

For more severe bites or scratches, see your veterinarian. Let common sense be your guide. If the wound continues to bleed, bleeds excessively, develops an inflammation or gets larger, it’s definitely time to visit the vet. He or she can also suggest suitable antiseptic preparations as alternatives to salt water. Do not use anything else on hamster skin without veterinary advice.

Fighting isn’t the only way hamsters can hurt themselves. They do not appear to understand the concept of height and will cheerfully walk off the edge of any surface. This probably relates to their limited sight (the distance from the bed to the floor is much greater than they think) and their flat natural habitat.

A long drop can fracture a hamster’s limb, an injury that requires veterinary care. Fractures can be dressed and splinted for optimum healing, but your hamster may repeatedly remove the dressing and splint. Do not despair, however, because most unsplinted fractures will heal completely, if slightly crooked. Open fractures (when the skin is broken) are more serious. After your veterinarian treats an open fracture, try to keep any dressing or splint on as long as possible and remove exercise wheels until your vet advises otherwise.

To prevent this type of injury, always handle hamsters close to a surface so they cannot fall far if you drop them. Do not let small children hold hamsters unattended and never leave a hamster alone when out of its cage or in a ball.

Wheel wounds and footpad sores should be rare if solid-surface wheels are provided. Should one of these injuries occur, treatment would depend on the type of wound. To reduce the risk to unweaned pups, remove the wheel from the cage until they are weaned.

Pinworms
A hamster often has low levels of pinworms (Syphacia mesocriceti and possibly others) without showing outward signs of illness. However, research on laboratory mice documents changes in immune system function with pinworm infestation, so a finding of pinworms along with diarrhea, weight loss, unthriftiness or other illness merits treatment. Some hamsters with pinworm are intensely pruritic (itchy), particularly around the tail and lower back.

Pinworms may sometimes be detected through a direct or float fecal parasite examination. A more consistent method of detection uses clear tape placed on the fur and skin along the perineal region (i.e., around the anus). The clear tape is then placed on a glass microscope slide and examined under 100x or higher magnification. The ova of pinworms are unmistakable, sharply pointed football-shaped objects. Occasionally adult worms may be found in the feces or on the tape.

Ivermectin, fenbendazole or pyrantel palmoate may reduce pinworm levels, but it is often difficult to completely eliminate them due to their direct life cycle. A weekly or every other week treatment may be needed to clear a hamster of pinworms, and it may take one to three months to do so. It’s important to treat all of the hamsters in the home so that one doesn’t serve as a source of reinfection. In some cases, it may take higher doses than normal and longer treatment periods.

Since pinworm ovas are passed in the feces, hamsters may reinfect themselves as a result of their normal behavior of eating their own feces. It may also pass from hamster to hamster, and the eggs in the environment may reinfect a hamster that was already treated. You must spot clean the cage to remove feces daily and do a thorough cleaning every three to five days during treatment. Dump out all bedding, wash all cage furnishings in warm soapy water, then rinse well. Dilute chlorine bleach should be applied to all cage furnishings and allowed to sit for 15 to 30 minutes before being rinsed well with hot water. Don’t forget to disinfect your hamster’s holding cage and exercise balls or other outside-the-cage toys and play areas.

Reproductive Issues (Pyometra, Neutering, Polycystic Ovaries)

Excessive yellow or stinky discharge from a female hamster's vulva is a sign of illness.
Click image to enlarge.

All species of mature female hamsters usually come into estrus (heat) every four days and may then be hyperactive or irritable. Slight behavioral differences can be seen between the species at this time. Some Syrian females give off a musky, unmistakable odor during estrus and have a slight, milky vaginal discharge. Anecdotal evidence also indicates that it’s normal for some female Syrian hamsters to occasionally have a very small spot of blood in the genital area during estrus.

If you notice excessive yellow or unpleasant-smelling vaginal discharge, your hamster may have developed a pyometra (an accumulation of pus in the uterus caused by infection). A hamster with a pyometra will usually feel and look very ill, exhibiting one or more symptoms associated with a sick hamster. Veterinary treatment is essential. If your vet is not experienced at hamster surgery, ask for a referral. Pyometra is life-threatening but can be treated with prescribed antibiotics and ovariohysterectomy (surgery to remove the uterus and ovaries). Many vets routinely operate successfully on dwarf and Syrian hamsters.

Elective surgical neutering of male and female hamsters can be done. When not done by choice, these operations are usually performed to remove a pyometra or other reproductive tract problem.

Female hamsters occasionally get the hereditary condition called polycystic ovaries. This can make the abdomen bulge considerably and the hamster could double in weight. The ovaries can be completely removed by ovariohysterectomy.

Respiratory Infections (Pneumonia, Colds, Sniffles)
Respiratory infections in hamsters can develop rapidly. Signs include watery eyes, rapid or noisy breathing and sniffles. These infections can be caused by bacteria, viruses, inhalation of food or water, hypothermia and getting wet.

Respiratory infections can be fatal and always require urgent veterinary attention. Treatment depends on the cause. Veterinarians usually give antibiotics in case the illness is bacterial and to prevent secondary bacterial colonization. Antibiotics may not work, however, if the main agent isn’t bacterial or if treatment begins too late.

To avoid respiratory infection, house your hamsters at a constant, normal room temperature and out of drafts or direct sunlight. Avoid excessive humidity and overcrowding. Use hanging drinking bottles, not water bowls, and never bathe your hamster in water, unless your vet specifically instructs you to do so.

Keep sick hamsters away from well hamsters, and if you have a cold try not to breathe or sneeze on your animals.

Scent Gland Irregularities
All hamsters have scent glands. These glands communicate presence, territory and sexual status to other hamsters. Syrian’s have one on each flank, and these may be pigmented and slightly greasy. Dwarf hamsters have a single gland on the middle of their belly, near the navel. This is not usually pigmented, but is often very prominent and usually greasy, yellowed or even wet looking.

In all species, the male scent glands tend to be larger than those of the female. They may emit a musky scent that varies between individuals but should not be unpleasant, just unusual.

Hamsters rarely get infections or tumors of their scent glands. Each hamster’s glands look different. The daily health check will familiarize you with their normal appearance. If you notice any changes such as reddening, swelling, discharge, bleeding or crusting, consult your veterinarian.

Scent gland infections can be treated, but tumors are usually malignant (cancerous). Discuss treatment options and the prognosis with your vet.

Tapeworms

This view through a microscope shows a single tapeworm egg. A tapeworm infestation can cause mild to severe or even deadly gastrointestinal problems.
Click image to enlarge.

There are two tapeworms that are associated with diarrhea and gastroenteritis in hamsters, Hymenolepsis nana andHymenolepsis diminuata. Tapeworms may build up to such high levels that they may obstruct the intestine and cause constipation, bloating, poor growth, weight loss and death.

H. nana is a proven zoonotic, meaning that it can be transmitted to people. For this reason it is very important for your veterinarian to look for the parasite. Very fresh fecal samples are needed to detect tapeworms, and it may take multiple samples being evaluated over the course of a few days to find the tapeworm proglottids (egg cases) or ova (which may be free-floating if the proglottid has ruptured). You should notify your medical doctor of tapeworm exposure so you can assess if you are more at risk of contracting the tapeworm. Although proper hygiene like hand-washing is important when handling any small pet like a hamster, it is especially important to do so when a zoonotic disease is detected.

Praziquantel is an effective tapeworm treatment. All hamsters in the home should be treated at the same time to be sure there are no tapeworm carriers that could reinfect the home. A weekly treatment that is repeated for three to six weeks may be needed to clear a hamster of tapeworms. In some cases, it may take higher doses than normal and longer treatment periods. Because tapeworms can cause illness in people, once they have been diagnosed it is very important to do multiple fecal parasite examinations after treatment to ensure that they have been eliminated.

Tapeworm proglottids are passed in the feces, so hamsters may reinfect themselves as a result of their normal behavior of eating their own feces. It may also pass from hamster to hamster, and the eggs in the environment may reinfect a hamster that was already treated. You must spot clean the cage to remove feces daily and do a thorough cleaning every three to five days during treatment. Dump out all bedding, wash all cage furnishings in warm soapy water, then rinse well. Dilute chlorine bleach should be applied to all cage furnishings and allowed to sit for 15 to 30 minutes before being rinsed well with hot water. Don’t forget to disinfect your hamster’s holding cage and exercise balls or other outside-the-cage toys and play areas.

If the tapeworms are causing constipation or bloating, or if the tapeworm-infested hamster is dehydrated or passing mucus or blood with the diarrhea, the outlook is uncertain. Your hamster may need additional fluids by mouth or by injection beneath the skin, other antibiotics, pain relievers and assist-feeding. The more quickly a hamster is diagnosed and treated, the more likely it is to survive.

Tritrichomonas sp.
Hamsters with diarrhea may be infected with a number of parasites, such as the one-celled protozoanTritrichomonas. As with Giardia specie, this parasite may be found at low levels in the feces of seemingly healthy hamsters. At higher levels, it is often associated with gastroenteritis. We are not sure what makes some hamsters break with diarrhea while others are unaffected. Tritrichomonas may be detected from fresh feces observed through a direct fecal parasite examination under a microscope. These flagellated protozoa bounce around the fluid on the slide and are easily detected. As a general rule, if more than three are seen per high power field of a light microscope (about 400x), it is contributing to the diarrhea. If the feces are dry or have been room temperature for a while, the flagellated protozoa may encyst, making them much more difficult to identify and often requiring the techniques of a specialized lab. The best samples are collected straight from the hamster at the veterinarian’s office.

Tritrichomonas and most other flagellated protozoan parasites may be treated with albendazole or metronidazole, but all affected hamsters must be treated at the same time. Because the protozoan parasite is passed in the feces, hamsters may reinfect themselves as a result of their normal behavior of eating their own feces. It may also pass from hamster to hamster, and cysts in the environment may reinfect a hamster that was already treated. You must spot clean the cage to remove feces daily and do a thorough cleaning every three to five days during treatment. Dump out all bedding, wash all cage furnishings in warm soapy water, then rinse well. Dilute chlorine bleach should be applied to all cage furnishings and allowed to sit for 15 to 30 minutes before being rinsed well with hot water. Don’t forget to disinfect your hamster’s holding cage and exercise balls or other outside-the-cage toys and play areas.

If the diarrhea is causing dehydration, mucus or blood, the outlook is uncertain. Your hamster may need additional fluids by mouth or by injection beneath the skin, other antibiotics, pain relievers and assist-feeding. The more quickly a hamster is diagnosed and treated, the more likely it is to survive.

Tumors (Lymphosarcoma, Hamster Polyomavirus And Others)
Older hamsters often develop tumors of some kind. The probability for tumors increases from birth. After one year, many hamsters have silent, internal tumors. These can be benign and totally harmless. Malignant (cancerous) tumors may grow, however, and cause pain, weight loss and death. The age when a tumor might become a health issue differs for each animal.

Have your veterinarian check any new lumps or bumps you discover during your daily health check. Many older hamsters have tumors called lymphomas on their internal organs and under the skin. These are common and probably will not affect your hamster. If a lymphoma is malignant (cancerous), it is called a lymphosarcoma and it may cause illness.

Tumors can’t be prevented. Treatment depends on a tumor’s size, site, biopsy result and differentiation/malignancy. The experience and preference of the veterinarian, and owner’s finances also affect treatment of a hamster with a tumor, which normally involves surgery.

During the health check, also notice your hamster’s weight. Cancer is a common cause of unexplained weight loss, so if you notice this happening, see your vet immediately.

Some Syrian hamsters develop benign skin tumors called trichoepitheliomas when infected by a virus known as hamster polyomavirus (HaPV). This is rare, but contagious to other Syrians. If your hamster develops wart-like lumps on its skin, ask your vet about HaPV, which can be diagnosed with a biopsy. No cure or treatments exist for HaPV.

Tyzzer's Disease
Clostridium piliforme is one of the many bacteria and other organisms that cause diarrhea in hamsters, often grouped under the term “wet tail.” This bacteria is anaerobic, meaning it lives without oxygen, and may increase to dangerous levels in the large intestine and cecum of a hamster that is stressed, particularly young hamsters that are being moved from one location to another. The bacterial spores contaminate the environment to infect other hamsters, quickly leading to a widespread outbreak.

It is not easy to confirm Tyzzer’s disease in a hamster with wet tail. A fecal sample may be sent to a lab to try and identify the bacteria, but the results may take several days. Many veterinarians start wet tail hamsters on the antibiotic metronidazole, which often helps eliminate Clostridium and certain parasites, such as flagellated protozoa. Other antibiotics may be needed, and fluids may need to be given orally or beneath the skin to treat dehydration. Some hamsters may need pain relieving medications and a liquid diet until they are improving. Other hamsters may be in severe pain that does not respond to treatment, develop a rectal prolapse, or develop other conditions where euthanasia needs to be considered. All hamsters that were exposed to the sick one should be closely watched and treated at the first sign of soft stool or a hunched posture suggesting abdominal pain.

Proper hygiene is needed to prevent spread of Tyzzer’s disease. Daily removal of soiled bedding coupled with hand-washing and washing all cage furniture and the cage in hot, soapy water is needed.

Hamster Health - Part 1

2015-01-20T17:20:00.000-05:00

Hamsters sometimes get sick or injured. It can happen to hamsters given the best of care. Veterinary care for sick hamsters or injured hamsters has come a long way. Want to know all about hamster health concerns? Check out the following list of hamster illnesses and injuries to learn more about some common hamster health concerns before your hamster gets sick. If your hamster is currently sick or injured, immediately contact a veterinarian experienced in caring for hamsters.

Amyloidosis is a poorly understood disease that can cause debilitating illness in hamsters and other animals. Amyloid is a protein that is formed when a hamster’s immune system is over-stimulated. Often this is the result of an infection that has been left untreated, such as a bladder infection or tooth root abscess. It is more common in older female hamsters, particularly intact females that have developed ovarian or uterine disease. This abnormal immune response causes amyloid to accumulate in internal organs like the heart, liver and kidneys. Over time, these organs no longer function normally. A hamster may lose its appetite and develop a swollen, fluid-filled abdomen. The hamster may have trouble breathing due to the fluid pressing on its diaphragm.

If the kidneys are affected, your veterinarian may find that the urine has abnormal levels of protein and a low concentration of salts (i.e., a low specific gravity). The urine may also show signs of infection with white blood cells and casts. A blood sample may show low albumin, which happens with liver and kidney amyloidosis. An ultrasound may reveal abnormal liver and kidneys, as well as an abnormal heart.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for amyloidosis. Short-term medical care may include diuretics to help move fluid out of the abdomen, but this is not effective if the kidneys are failing. Some medications may help increase the affected heart’s strength temporarily. Euthanasia should be considered for those hamsters with a poor quality of life.

Anal Atresia
This congenital condition occurs in newborn hamsters but is rare. Symptoms can include a lack of bowel movements or any of the usual signs of illness. With this condition, incomplete bowel development prevents the hamster from defecating. Bloating of the abdomen follows and, if left untreated, death ensues. Some cases can be repaired surgically, if identified quickly.

Atrial Thrombosis
Hamsters are prone to heart disease. Atrial thrombosis occurs when a clot forms in one of the large, thin-walled chambers of the heart, individually known as atrium and collectively as atria. It occurs most commonly in the left atrium, where oxygen-rich blood from the lungs returns to the heart and is passed to the left ventricle, where it is pumped out to the body. This is the most common cause of spontaneous death in hamsters between 1 and 2 years old. There is no known preventive. It is rarely diagnosed in a living hamster, and no known treatments have been published.

Behaviorial Abnormalities
Occasionally hamsters are born with behavioral abnormalities such as repetitive, compulsive circling or back-flipping. These conditions are not well understood, but are probably caused by incorrect neurological development and may be genetic. These conditions seem to be more prevalent in dwarf hamsters than Syrian hamsters.

There is no cure for these problems. Affected hamsters may be untamable, aggressive or have reduced life expectancy. Others, however, are normal in all other respects. Regardless of the severity, affected hamsters should never be bred.

Cardiomyopathy
Cardiomyopathy is a condition where the heart’s chambers may become very thin-walled and floppy or extremely thick-walled and rigid. In Syrian hamsters, the thin-walled form called dilated cardiomyopathy has been extensively studied and the gene responsible has been isolated. The affected hamster heart cannot pump effectively and leads to poor circulation, which in turn causes difficulty breathing from fluid build-up in the lungs, weakness due to reduced levels of oxygen in the blood, and rapid tiring during normal activities, such as walking or even eating.

An echocardiogram, or ultrasound, of the hamster’s heart may diagnose this condition, but often the diagnosis rests on a combination of signs and findings of a heart murmur and enlarged heart on radiographs.

Management may include diuretics such as furosemide to help move fluid out of the lungs and abdomen, certain medications that increase the strength of the heart’s contractions and supplemental oxygen in a home-made oxygen chamber as needed. Even with these efforts, a hamster may only live a few days to a few weeks following diagnosis. Survival for more than three months is extremely rare.

Experimental gene therapy has extended the lives of hamsters with genetically caused cardiomyopathy, but this is not an option for pet hamsters.

Cataracts
Elderly hamsters of all species can develop cataracts, which appear as a developing “milkiness” of the eye. Eyesight gradually fades, but hamsters are otherwise unaffected and no treatment is required.

Cheek-Pouch Problems
Normal hamster behavior includes carrying food around in engorged cheek pouches. When full, these can extend back beyond the shoulders and look extremely large and ungainly. Sharp or inappropriate food, including sweet or sticky substances, can scratch or stick in cheek pouches, causing an infection and interfering with eating.

It’s easy to miss the symptoms of cheek-pouch infection. The history of care — how and what the hamster was fed, if inappropriate bedding was used — usually provides the best clues. Physical signs include asymmetrical swelling, a change in appearance of the pouches, loss of appetite or any general signs of illness — each could indicate a cheek-pouch problem.

If you think your hamster’s pouches are unusually swollen or damaged, take it to the vet. He or she can flush out the pouches and treat any damage or infection. To help avoid this condition, never give hamsters sweets, chocolate or sharp hay and bedding.

Collapse
If you find your hamster collapsed or unresponsive, take it to your vet immediately. Describe anything unusual you may have noticed. This emergency can have several causes including heatstroke, hypothermia, infection, shock, poisoning, heart attack, stroke or epilepsy. Your veterinarian will know how to treat these.

If the ambient temperature drops severely (below 40 degrees Fahrenheit), all hamster species are capable of going into hibernation. This isn’t a collapse, but a natural physiological response. Indoor hamsters kept at regular room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit) won’t hibernate. To waken a hibernating hamster, gradually warm the air to regular room temperature.

Congestive Heart Failure
A hamster’s heart may not pump normally for a variety of reasons including a birth defect, an injury or infection, or conditions like amyloidosis and cardiomyopathy. When this happens, fluid leaks out of the blood and into the surrounding tissues causing edema, fluid in the lung and ascites (fluid in the abdomen), and it is termed congestive heart failure (CHF). This in turn creates difficulty breathing and moving oxygen throughout the body. Signs of heart disease include coughing, difficulty breathing, weakness, sleepiness, a swollen pendulous abdomen, and rapid tiring out from normal activities. Sometimes the tongue and gums may look slightly gray or blue instead of a bright pink.

As with dilated cardiomyopathy, a diagnosis of CHF requires a radiograph and often an echocardiogram, or ultrasound of the hamster’s heart. An enlarged heart, especially where the lungs and abdomen show signs of fluid, support the diagnosis of congestive heart failure. Many conditions cause CHF, so a confirmed diagnosis is often only obtained by a pathologist examining the heart tissue during a necropsy of a deceased hamster.

Management of CHF may include diuretics such as furosemide to help move fluid out of the lungs and abdomen, certain medications that increase the strength of the heart’s contractions and supplemental oxygen in a home-made oxygen chamber as needed. Even with these efforts, a hamster may only live a few days to a few weeks following diagnosis. Survival for more than three months is extremely rare.

Conjunctivitis
A hamster may start to squint in one or both eyes as a result of an infection of the lining of the eyelids and tissues surrounding the eyeball. This infection, known as conjunctivitis, may result from viruses, chlamydophila, bacteria and many other kinds of infectious micro-organisms. It sometimes happens from dust or foreign objects irritating the eye, and sometimes it is the result of fighting. It may also be caused by a tooth root infection.

Sometimes the tissue surrounding the eye gets swollen and red, a condition often known as “pink eye.” You may notice a thick discharge or crust around the eye and the hamster may be unable to open one or both eyes. Some hamsters may also sneeze and have a nasal discharge, and may go on to develop an upper respiratory infection.

Your veterinarian may do some tests to make sure there is not an injury to the surface of the eye (such as a corneal ulcer) or other condition that mimics conjunctivitis. Sometimes the eye crust and closed eyes are signs of dehydration and not true conjunctivitis.

Conjunctitivis can spread to other hamsters, so make sure the affected hamster is isolated from others if it is a social species, such as one of the dwarf hamster species like Roborovskis, Campbell’s or Winter Whites. Practice proper hand-washing after handling the hamster. Watch other hamsters closely for squinting or crusty eyes.

Conjunctivitis often responds well to eye medications but some forms of it, such as that caused by chlamydophila, may need oral antibiotics for a few weeks for successful treatment. Gently clean away any discharge as needed with a warm, wet cottonball. Some hamsters need pain-relieving medications, either eyedrops such as flurbiprofen or oral medications like meloxicam, to feel better quickly. Some hamsters may need syringe-feeding and drinking until their eyes are open and they can find these on their own.

Cutaneous Abscess
A hamster may develop a pocket of pus in the skin, which is called cutaneous abscess. These bacterial infections are often the result of fighting but sometimes may be secondary to a piece of shavings or other foreign object sticking into the hamster’s skin. Sometimes sharp seeds, such as sunflower seeds, may injure the lining of the cheek pouch and lead to an abscess. Sometimes an abscess can be the result of a behavioral condition, such as excessive scratching. Occasionally, some of the scent glands on a hamster may become abscessed.

An abscess may need to be surgically drained and cleaned in order to heal. Your veterinarian may have you clean the wound with dilute povidone iodine in warm water. Antibiotics and something to relieve pain and swelling, like meloxicam, may be prescribed. Never use Neosporin or other antibiotic ointments containing neomycin on a hamster’s abscess, as this can cause a life-threatening diarrhea.

Death and Euthanasia
Sometimes a hamster will have an incurable condition or injury that severely reduces its quality of life or causes it pain. In this difficult situation, some people may choose to have their vet painlessly put their pet to sleep.

This is never an easy decision and it should be made in your own time, after discussion with your vet. You need to feel good about the decision you make, so raise any questions or concerns that trouble you. If you lose a pet, your vet can explain the grieving process to you to help you cope with normal feelings of guilt and loss.

Diabetes and Kidney Disease
Diabetes in hamsters is usually hereditary, but it’s suspected that an unknown environmental element may sometimes be a cause. Kidney disease in hamsters can have many causes, such as genetics, diet or infection. Both conditions can also be age-related. Complex research into this is ongoing.

Excessive drinking and increased urination can be signs of diabetes or kidney disease in hamsters. Some Campbell’s hamsters seem prone to diabetes, which comes on after a few months of life. Kidney problems are more common in elderly hamsters of any species.

You may initially notice that your hamster’s cage bedding is wetter than normal, and the urine may smell. The smell may be sweet, pungent or the same as usual. Your vet can test your hamster’s urine and blood to determine what is wrong. Diabetes and kidney disease can be fatal if not treated, but some hamsters respond very well to low-sugar or low-protein diets offered under expert guidance.

Exophthalmos

Hamster eyes bulge slightly, but exophthalmos caused the right eye of this hamster to bulge too much.
Click image to enlarge.

Hamsters sometimes develop bulging eyes, sometimes only on one side but often involving both eyes. Exophthalmos involving both eyes often results from a hamster that is held too tightly or has a head injury. Exophthalmos involving only one eye is commonly due to an infection of the eye, an infection behind the eye, known as a periorbital abscess, or a tooth-root abscess. Other possible causes include tumors, glaucoma and high blood pressure.

If you think your hamster has exophthalmos, make sure the eye stays moist until you can get to a veterinarian. Artificial tears or eye lubricants safe for people are available over-the-counter, and may be applied every few hours. Your veterinarian may need to sedate or anesthetize your hamster to better assess its condition. Some infections and abscesses respond well to oral and ophthalmic antibiotics and oral meloxicam (a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory that relieves pain and swelling) while other infections may need surgery to remove the pus or infected tooth. Some tumors respond to corticosteroids and oral chemotherapy drugs like cyclophosphamide. Glaucoma may be managed with drops. Sometimes an exophthalmic eye must be removed.
Make sure anyone who handles your hamster knows how to do so safely to prevent exophthalmos and other injuries.

Gastroenteritis (Diarrhea, Wet Tail, Bloating)

This hamster is suffering from severe diarrhea, also known as wet tail.
Click image to enlarge.

Hamsters are hind-gut fermenters and rely on their natural gut bacteria being balanced for health. Gastroenteritis and diarrhea are often caused by disruption of these natural bacteria or infection by foreign material.

Wet-tail is not a medical term, but describes one sign of watery diarrhea. It refers to a condition usually seen in young hamsters after weaning or re-homing. Wet-tail and other forms of diarrhea can be fatal and always require urgent veterinary attention.

Many different types of bacteria can cause gastroenteritis in hamsters. It is not necessary to know them, only to act quickly if you see diarrhea. Your vet may prescribe antibiotics, fluids and probiotics. Stress, re-homing, sudden diet changes and too much fruit or vegetables can bring on diarrhea.

Always introduce a new food slowly so your hamster’s gut can adjust. The bacterial population in a hamster’s gut adjusts to each diet to perform digestion. Sudden food changes cause digestive upset (diarrhea or bloating) because the bacterial population doesn’t have time to change.

The time frame for introducing new foods depends on the type of food and age of the hamster. In general, introduce wet food during at least a week in pieces no bigger than pecan size. For young hamsters, offer the new food every other day. You can be a bit less cautious with dry food — changing over to it in about five days.

Gastroenteritis can be infectious, so isolate any affected hamster from other animals as a precaution. Whether a sick hamster might infect another animal depends on the agent causing the gastroenteritis. Of the many bacteria that cause hamster diarrhea, only a very few can infect humans — although it is important to be aware of this possibility.

Giardia sp.
Hamsters with diarrhea may be infected with a number of parasites, such as the one-celled protozoanGiardia. While this parasite may be found at low levels in the feces of seemingly healthy hamsters, it is often associated with gastroenteritis. It’s unclear why some hamsters tolerate the parasite and others develop a problem. The parasite may be detected through a direct fecal parasite examination under a microscope. A skilled examiner may detect the characteristic “owl eye” cysts of Giardia species, but this is a crude measure and only detects moderate to high levels of infection. It is a great rapid screening test that can be done by a veterinarian within 15 minutes. A much more sensitive PCR test detects the DNA of Giardia species in a fecal pellet. This test is run by specialized laboratories and may take several days to confirm the infection.

Giardia responds well to albendazole or metronidazole but all affected hamsters must be treated at the same time. Because the protozoan parasite is passed in the feces, hamsters may reinfect themselves as a result of their normal behavior of eating their own feces. It may also pass from hamster to hamster, and cysts in the environment may reinfect a hamster that was already treated.

To combat Giardia in the environment, you must spot clean the cage to remove feces daily and do a thorough cleaning every three to five days during treatment. Dump out all bedding, wash all cage furnishings in warm soapy water, then rinse well. Dilute chlorine bleach should be applied to all cage furnishings and allowed to sit for 15 to 30 minutes before being rinsed well with hot water. Don’t forget to disinfect your hamster’s holding cage and exercise balls or other outside-the-cage toys and play areas.

If the diarrhea is causing dehydration, mucus or blood, the outlook is uncertain. Your hamster may need additional fluids by mouth or by injection beneath the skin, other antibiotics, pain relievers and assist-feeding. The more quickly a hamster with Giardia is diagnosed and treated, the more likely it is to survive.

Glaucoma
Some dwarf hamsters can develop an eye condition known as glaucoma. The main sign of this is a strong aversion to light and the eyeballs may bulge.

All mammals can develop glaucoma, but in hamsters it’s more prevalent in dwarfs than Syrians. This condition causes the pressure of fluid inside the eyeball to gradually increase, and eyesight deteriorates as the retina is damaged. Hamsters of any age can develop glaucoma, however, the incidence rises in hamsters older than 1 1/2 years.

Your vet can treat glaucoma with various drugs or eye enucleation (surgical removal of the eyeball). The latter sounds unpleasant but is relatively simple and will not adversely affect the quality of your hamster’s life. If left untreated, glaucoma leads to blindness and severe pain, so veterinary attention is a must.

Hair Loss, Hair Thinning (alopecia)

Hair loss on hamsters can be symmetrical (shown) or on one spot like the nose.
Click image to enlarge.

Hair thinning and loss is normal in elderly hamsters, particularly on the belly. Hair loss varies, but is often more obvious in females.

If hair loss is severe, sudden and spreading, it may be a hormonal problem. This is usually, but not always, symmetrical. The exposed skin may look normal or pigmented, smooth and thin. Hormonal disorders can be associated with old age and tumors. These are difficult to treat, but may not affect quality or length of life. Slight behavioral changes may occur, which you can discuss with your vet.
Alopecia can be secondary to self-trauma caused by itching. This occurs if a hamster scratches itself enough to cause hair loss.

Hyperadrenocortism

Head tilt is a neurological sign of illness in hamsters. This hamster is suffering from head tilt and dehydration.
Click image to enlarge.

A hamster that has hair loss and an enlarged swollen abdomen may have a disorder of its endocrine system known as hyperadrenocortism or Cushing’s disease. In hamsters, this is often caused by a tumor of the pituitary gland, which is found near the center of the brain. This tumor puts out hormones that cause the adrenal glands, which are found in the abdomen near the kidneys, to put out too many hormones, particularly ones called glucocorticosteroids. Some hamsters develop hyperadrenocotism due to a tumor or excessive growth of the adrenal glands themselves.

Over time, overproduction of adrenal hormones cause hair loss, thinning of the skin and thinning of the muscles, as well as increased drinking and a sometimes insatiable hunger. An afflicted hamster may be nearly bald, with only small patches of fuzzy fur on its head and face and paws, and may have an abdomen that is about twice its normal size as a result of stretching of the belly muscles.

One medication, cabergoline, has been effective in extending the lives of rats with pituitary tumors, but its effectiveness in hamsters hasn’t been demonstrated. Trilostane has helped hamsters with adrenal hypertrophy and tumors, but may not help decrease the signs caused by pituitary-based tumors. It may take weeks for a hamster to regrow its fur if the medication is helping.

As the condition worsens, a hamster may develop sores on its skin that don’t heal. It may have trouble walking around, either due to the enlarged abdomen and weak leg muscles, or as a result of brain damage from a growing pituitary tumor. Neurological signs like a head tilt, seizures or exophthalmos indicate a hamster is nearing the end. Euthanasia should be considered when a hamster has any of these serious problems that no longer respond to treatment.

Hypothermia
Wild hamsters live in burrows that are insulated with thick layers of soil and rock that protect them from excessive heat and cold. Our substitutes are often plastic or cardboard, and the only insulation is from the bedding they pull into their hide boxes. In an unheated winter room that drops below 68 degrees Fahrenheit, a Syrian hamster may be so cold that it starts to shiver. If it can’t find a small insulated area that allows it to warm up, it can quickly develop a life-threatening low body temperature (hypothermia). Once this happens, the hamster falls into a coma. A hypothermic hamster should be slowly warmed back to normal body temperature, such as being cupped in warm hands or wrapped in warm towels right from the dryer that are hot but not too warm to hold.

Prevent hypothermia by providing plenty of thick bedding and a selection of hide boxes of different sizes so your hamster can pick the one that keeps it warm and comfortable. Better yet, keep your hamster in a room that feels comfortable to you, one that is at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit at all times.

Hamster Body Language - What your Hamster is Telling You

2014-12-14T11:42:00.007-05:00

Hamsters can’t talk, but they can tell us a lot about what they’re feeling through their body language and vocalizations. If you’re observant, it’s easy to learn what a hamster is trying to tell you.

Here are some examples of hamster body language and sounds and what they mean.

Chewing on cage bars: “I’m bored; please get me some new toys to chew on or put me in a bigger cage so I have more room to run and play.”

Eyes barely open, ears laid back: “I’m sleepy; give me a little more time to wake up or I might bite.”

Grooming: “I need to clean up after play or naptime.”

Running, interspersed with grooming: “I’m agitated, confused or excited.”

Sitting up, ears forward, without moving: “I see something interesting.”

Squeaking: “I’m not happy and I might not feel good. Put me back in my cage.”

Yawning or stretching: “I feel great; I’ve just had a good day’s sleep.”

Like every animal, a hamster needs a safe, comfortable environment to remain free of stress and anxiety, which can lead to health and behavior problems. Hamsters indicate stress by biting, squeaking and overeating.

If your hamster appears to be stressed, take a look at its living quarters to see if changes can improve the environment. Keep the cage and bedding clean, avoid waking the hamster during the day, cage Syrian hamsters or dwarf species that fight with each other separately, provide a running wheel, tunnels and chew toys, place the cage in an area where it’s not exposed to drafts or high temperatures, and provide plenty of food and nesting material for a mother with babies.

12 Common Hamster Behaviors

2014-12-13T16:03:00.000-05:00

There’s a reason why hamsters are popular family pets: they are cute, require less space than most other pets and they have personality that transcends well beyond their diminutive size. Here are some common hamster behaviors:

1. Sniffing things out: When you welcome a hamster into your home, expect to see him wiggling his little nose … a lot. Hamsters don’t have great eyesight, but what they lack in visual acuity, they make up for in an extra-keen sense of smell. Sniffing is often accompanied by standing up on the hind legs, which your hamster might do if he feels the need to investigate things further and/or to better sniff out any nearby perceived threats. Your hamster might also take to a standing position if he catches a whiff of a tasty treat.

2. Exploring: A hamster will spend a good amount of time navigating around his environment and memorizing the layout. This is where his whiskers come in handy; they literally help him get a better feel for his environment.

3. Stuffing those cheeks: If you see your hamster’s cheeks suddenly bulging to the brim, don’t fret; it’s not a case of hamster mumps. Just like squirrels, hamsters can be real food hoarders, stuffing food into their cheeks (in some instances, expanding them to the point of almost doubling their head size!) so they can move large quantities of food to their special, self-designated hiding spots located in tunnels hidden throughout their bedding or in other areas of their housing environment.

4. Busy burrowing: You might see a lot of wiggling going on underneath your hamster’s litter/bedding. This is your little furball burrowing to create covered areas he can retreat to or hide his extra stashes of food in. Expect to see some burrowing after you change your hamster’s bedding material; after all, he has to start all over again!

5. Making himself disappear: You might find yourself wondering where your hamster is. Hamsters like hideouts; whether they are spots in their bedding, in a hamster-size igloo or burrowed under a toy. Allow your hamster a little privacy — hamsters are prey animals after all, and keeping out of sight is their best defense in the wild.

6. Pulling an all-nighter: Don’t expect your hamster to go to bed when you turn out the lights at night. Hamsters are nocturnal and can be little busybodies during the night. If you can’t sleep with the sound of your hamster working out on his exercise wheel, consider moving the cage.

7. Sleeping while you’re awake: If you hadn’t noticed that your hamster is most active at night, you might be a bit bewildered as to why your little hammy sleeps all day. Don’t worry, your hamster is not unwell; he’s just on a different sleep schedule than you. And if your home drops below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, don’t be surprised if your hamster undergoes a mini hibernation and sleeps a little longer than usual.

8. Chewing like crazy: A hamster’s teeth continuously grow, so your pet will seek out items to chew to keep his teeth in check. Give your hamster appropriate items to chew, such as a hay or a wood block, and sit back and enjoy watching him hold it in his little hands as he chomps away.

9. Leaving a mark: You might notice your hamster hitting his flanks (hips) against things. He’s not uncoordinated; he’s claiming the item/spot as his own! Hamsters have scent glands (which other hamsters can smell) but the exact location varies depending on the species of hamster. Syrians have a scent gland on each hip, while dwarf hamsters have a single scent gland on their underside, just below where you would imagine their belly button to be.

10. Squeaking or hissing: A hamster making an audible noise is generally not a happy hamster. An annoyed or frightened hamster might squeak or resort to hissing to further get his point across that he is quite angry.

11. Laying back: Some hamsters prefer to lie on their backs when sleeping or just to relax. Let your hammy chill out while in this favored pose and wait until he’s back up on his feet before attempting to pick him up.

12. Grooming: Hamsters have a reputation for extreme cuteness to uphold, and nothing is cuter than a hamster combing his fur down, much like when we run our fingers or hand through our hair to keep it in check.

Hamster Health and Illness

2014-10-03T22:37:00.001-04:00

A healthy hamster is a happy pet and everyone wants a happy pet. Luckily it is quite easy to make sure your cute friend lives a long and healthy life. A proper diet, fresh water, and a nice, clean habitat, go a long way in preventing illness and injury. You want to make sure his home avoids drafts, excessive heat and dampness, as well as provides exercise and suitable hiding places. Protecting your hamster by carefully handling him and preventing a nasty fall will also keep your pet safe.

Even with quality care, a proper diet, and a wonderful habitat, injuries and illness can occur. In the event of one of these unfortunate occurrences, contacting your veterinarian is always recommended. Signs of illness may be weight loss, loss of appetite, and behavioral changes. Below is a list of the more common issues that can affect a hamster’s health.

Broken bones
For broken bones, isolate your pet and keep him in a cage without a wheel. Do not handle him and make sure you feed him a good diet with a calcium supplement. The break should hopefully heal nicely within two weeks.

Bites
Hamsters do fight with each other and a bite can be one outcome. If a bite does occur, clean the wounded area with peroxide and if the injury leads to infection, contact your veterinarian.

Cheek Pouch Injuries
These injuries can occur during a fight or your hamster may find a sharp object in the cage and cut its cheek pouch.

Abscesses
An abscess can happen when a wound heals over before the infection inside is gone. It can look like a swollen area and will be very tender to the touch. There can be redness of the skin and your hamster may scratch at or around the area.

Teeth
A hamster’s front incisors are designed to rub against each other while nibbling and are suppose to wear evenly, but this doesn’t always happen. The unmatched teeth can hinder eating and may grow into the roof of the mouth or cheek pouch.

Eyes
Hamsters do develop eye problems in response to eye injuries or infections. They can also develop cataracts.

Respiratory Infections
Symptoms of respiratory infections are labored breathing, discharge from the nose and eyes, loss of appetite and weight loss.

Gastrointestinal Infections
Symptoms of gastrointestinal infections are a stained tail, diarrhea, lethargy, failure to eat or drink, irritability and ruffled hair.

Fungal Infections
Fungal infections are caused by damp, dirty, housing and inadequate diets.

Heatstroke
Symptoms of heatstroke are heavy breathing and the animal laying on it’s belly. A hamster can die quickly if you don’t take immediate action. Move the cage to a cool spot. Take him out of the cage and run cool water, not cold, over it’s body until it is alert and breathing has slowed. Dry it off gently and place it in a clean dry cage away from any heat to rest. To rehydrate your pet you can use an eyedropper to offer your him water or Pedialyte. Never leave your hamster’s cage by a sunny window, in your car, or an unventilated room.

Will Pet Hamsters Released Into The Wild Survive?

2013-06-11T19:32:00.001-04:00

Pet hamsters released into the wild will most definitely not survive. Your hamsters were reared as pets by a mother that was a pet herself. That's your hamsters’ only scope of reference. For hundreds of generations, hamsters have been selected for characteristics that make them good domestic pets, not survivors in the wild.

Death for a domestic hamster outdoors would probably be slow and painful. Rescued hamsters found outside are often near death from exposure or malnutrition. In the wild, your hamsters could become prey to animals that live their lives outdoors finding their own food. Your hamsters would likely pick up parasites for which they have no natural resistance. The terrain is very different than the cage bedding they’ve known, meaning they wouldn’t be able to dig for warmth or safety.

Releasing hamsters into the wild is likely illegal, as well. Animal cruelty laws protect pets from such treatment. Environmental laws protect native plant and animal species from the threat posed by the release of nonnative species.

Many animal shelters help in situations like yours by accepting small animals — call first or check out their acceptance guidelines on the agency’s website. There are several hamster and small animal rescue groups that can assist you, as well. Do an online search using “hamster rescue” to find these.

All About Older Hamsters

2013-06-11T19:22:00.002-04:00

At the age of 2, your hamster is reaching the end of its life span and can be called a senior. By this time dietary needs and behavior may have changed. Older hamsters obviously are not as active as they once were. They sleep more and do not respond as quickly to being called. Older hamsters still enjoy outings in a playbox but move more slowly.

Many old hamsters put hard food from their dry hamster mix into their milky porridge or soft food to soften it. Soft foods such as porridge provide hamsters with easily digestible gluten from the oats. Your senior hamster will enjoy unseasoned, cooked foods such as boiled rice, boiled potato or pasta because they’re soft and easier to digest.

Another side effect of a hamster turning 2 years old is that its fur may begin to thin. Longhaired Syrian males might need to have their hair trimmed, especially if they lose interest in grooming themselves. You might say the hamsters have become lazy!

Older hamsters benefit from having extra bedding in their cages to act as insulation, especially if their fur is thinning or if bald patches are developing. If a hamster’s eyes do not open readily or appear “gummed up,” they can be eased by gentle bathing with warm water.

The life expectancy of a hamster is around 2 years. As with their human counterparts, some will live to a ripe old age while others will die before their time

Can I change my hamster's sleep schedule?

2013-05-11T16:30:00.004-04:00

It is possible to change a hamster's sleep schedule. It's not easy, and it may not be permanent, but it's possible. We're speaking here about Syrian hamsters, which must be kept in cages by themselves. Dwarf hamsters will respond similarly, but their behavior may be affected by their cagemates, and thus may not be as readily changed.

A hamster's behavior is mostly determined by the environment and repetition. The Syrian hamster has been kept as a pet for less than one hundred years. For perhaps tens of thousands of years prior to that they each lived in desert burrows, alone, responding only to their personal survival needs and the weather, which, being on a desert plain, hardly changes. So when a Syrian hamster enters your home, he or she is carrying on the kind of activity that's written into its DNA. That's the long way of saying hamsters are truly "creatures of habit."

The key, then, to changing a hamster's wake/sleep schedule is to create a gentle transition in the way their day goes. Remember that "personal survival needs" mainly involve getting food. In the wild this activity is initiated by the hamster, which has a sense that it should go out every day and gather things. But in your home, you're the food source, so you must create a pattern to imitate nature.

To do this, toss away the food in your hamster's dish and replace it at a set time daily. There's a side note here: Your hamster’s diet is a separate subject altogether, but in short, it's not a good idea to limit it to a store-bought mix, and to simply refill the supply when it gets low. First, the hamster will eat what it wants, and leave what it doesn't, which may lead to malnutrition. Second, grains oxidize and lose their nutritional value, and the oils become rancid. Finally, fresh foods provide a wide variety of active nutrients, and hamsters like them, so they offer a good incentive for training.

With that said, back to "time-shifting your hamster": Take note of when your hamster typically rises in the evening, and set out a dish of food around then. The dish should include some fresh items for the reasons above, and because these send an aroma signal to the hamster that reminds it of its need to "go out and gather." Set the dish near the cage if your hamster is sleeping soundly so the smells can trigger your hamster’s wake-up call instead of startling it by placing it in the cage. Your hamster will see this as a focal point of the day, and it will begin to order its activities around it — eating, running, grooming, napping and so on. It's like a delicious, life-enhancing alarm clock!

If you're truly consistent, meaning that you perform this food change at exactly the same time every day, it will take most hamsters only a week to get a fix on it and react consistently as well. Then the process is simple. Just move the time you do this up or down by 15 minutes every five days or so. Again, you're going to have to be very, very regular about it. This method has been known to change a hamster's sleeping and waking time by as much as an hour over the course of a month.

Please note that when we change our clocks for daylight saving time, if that applies to you, we're sort of doing the same thing to ourselves. Our hamsters, in turn, will react to changes in our activity, light and dark, noise level, and so on. That will also alter their waking and sleeping patterns.

Eventually your hamster may just wander off the schedule for reasons that can't be explained except to say that occasionally doing the unexpected is one reason we love hamsters so much

Hamsters ready to return for new batch of KIA Soul ads

2012-08-02T21:05:00.003-04:00

We certainly hope you like seeing hamsters during your commercial breaks. Kia is readying a new volley of ads for the 2013 Soul featuring the fuzzy little rodents doing what they do best, according to Automotive News.

This will mark the fourth generation of Kia hamster ads, and the clever spots have been big for both the budget hatchback and the automaker in general. While speaking at the Small Agency Conference hosted byAd Age, Michael Sprague, the executive vice president of marketing and communications for Kia, said the manufacturer's sales have jumped by 78 percent since 2008. At least a portion of that increase can be attributed to the success of the hamster campaign.

Sprague also revealed the hamsters were almost edged out by other members of the animal kingdom, including backpack-wearing boars. So, what's behind Kia's marketing success beyond a handful of anthropomorphic rodents? Sprague says Kia can thank its success to the company paired-down, bureaucracy-free management system. When it comes to pitching marketing ideas, the only person he has to answer to is the company's CEO.

When your hamster has babies......

2012-07-28T11:41:00.000-04:00

Hamsters are lively, adventurous pets and give their owners hours of enjoyment. If an owner has two or more hamsters they may find themselves in a situation of mistaken gender identity. Hamsters can reproduce at an early age of 6 to 8 weeks. Once pregnant, a female hamster's gestation period is only 2 weeks (14 days). If you are lucky enough to know your hamster is pregnant, you'll want to be sure to separate her from any other hamsters and give her a quiet area. Make sure she is eating a healthy diet. Hamsters love carrots and other raw vegetables as well as the normal hamster diet you can get from any pet or retail store. Remember to provide your hamster with plenty of water.

A clean, dry cage is a happy home! Be sure you provide a spacious, clean, dry cage. Cedar litter and shredded newspaper are favorites of hamsters. Hamsters are very efficient at making comfortable nests to sleep or bury themselves in, so be sure you offer plenty of bedding material for them to work with. The bedding material will also provide a hiding place and privacy for the mother and babies. Even though she has babies, your female hamster may decide to go exploring while the babies are asleep. Hamsters love to climb and explore and are very good at it! Remember that hamsters are escape artists, so make sure the cage is escape proof and deep! Keep your hamster happy with an exercise wheel and hide treats throughout her cage to keep her active. Chew sticks will allow her to keep her teeth trimmed and relieve any anxieties she may have. Try not to hold or disturb your female hamster when she is pregnant.

Hamster babies are born bald and pink and are about the size of jellybeans. Their eyes are tightly closed. Within 3 to 5 days their fur starts to grow in. Once the babies are born it is alright to offer your female hamster some extra nourishment. I gave my hamster small amounts of diluted canned milk or full 2% milk along with her water while she was nursing. It is necessary to clean your hamster's cage once a week, so you will have the opportunity to hold the little ones often. If your hamster is used to your presence and being held, she should have no problems with you gently removing the babies and her to clean the cage. I held my hamster's babies when they were able to crawl around with no problems from their mother. You can separate the babies from their mother around 3 to 4 weeks of age. Hamsters are prolific like other rodents, so make sure you separate the sexes as soon as they stop nursing.

A clean, well-fed, exercising mother hamster is a happy one. Hamsters make excellent mothers if you give them the right care, diet and materials to raise their family.

Hamster plays dead

2012-05-31T12:39:00.000-04:00

Medicines that Hamsters are alergic to

2012-03-30T20:46:00.000-04:00

Here is a list of what type of medicines hamsters are alergic to: Only give these medicines on the advice and perscription for a veterinarian.

Streptomycin
Dihydrostreptomycin
All penicillins
Lincomycin
Clindamycin
Erythromycin
Tylosin
Some Cephalosporins
Ampicillin
Amoxycillin
Tetracycline

Recipe for Meat Loaf for your hamster

2012-02-27T20:42:00.001-05:00

This recipe is great for pregnant females, nursing females, babies, sick/weak hamsters, and elderly hamsters, or as an occasional treat for any hamster.

You can alter the ingredients, add ingredients, and/or change the measurments as desired. You can also freeze or refrigerate the recipe for extended use.)

1 tbsp of plain Oats
1/2 tbsp of low/fat free milk
1/2 tbsp of quality canned puppy or kitten food (I use canned Science Diet Chicken Recipe Puppy Growth)
1-2 drops of liquid vitamins specific for hamsters
1/2 tbsp of shredded carrots and/or broccoli (or any other safe veggie)
a pinch of wheat germ
add some clear unflavored Pedialyte for additional hydration if desired

What can your hamster eat, and not eat

2012-02-27T20:31:00.000-05:00

Here is a list of foods that are safe for your hamster to eat. Remember that sugar should be avoided with Campbell dwarfes. They are prone to diabetes. So no fruits, corn, peas or carrots for them or anything containing alot of sugars. All new foods should be introduced slowly to avoid upsetting the hamster's stomach and/or causing diarrhea. A good way to introduce them is to give a piece of fruit/veggie one day skip a day or two then give them another piece of fruit/veggie skip a day or two etc. Once their systems get used to that amount you can slowly add on more days. Don't go overboard with it probably two a day would be the maximum. The 2 daily being one fruit/veggie and one protein/other food. Make sure to rinse the fruits and vegetables off with water and let them sit at room temp for a min or two before giving them to the hamster(s). If you get any fruits or veggies from outside you need to be sure that there are no pesticides on or around it. So if you are not sure, it's best to stay away from wild plants, veggies and fruits.

FRUITS

Apple (seedless)
Banana
Blackberries
Blueberries
Cantaloupe.
Cherries
Cranberries
Grapes(seedless)
Lychee
Mango
Melon
Peaches (no stone)
Plums (no pits)
Raspberries
Raspberry Leaves (helpful for diarrhea)
Strawberries

VEGGIES

Asparagus
Bean Sprouts
Bok Choy
Broccoli
Cabbage (Limited amounts)
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery
Chard
Chestnuts
Chickweed
Chicory
Clover
Corn on the Cob
Cucumbers
Dandelion Leaves
Endive
Green Beans
Kale
Parsnips
Peas
Radicchio
Romaine Lettuce
Spinach
Squash
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet bell Peppers
Swiss Chard
Turnip
Water Chestnuts
Water Cress
Zucchini

MEATS AND PROTEINS FOODS

Cooked Ground Beef (Rinse well in hot water to remove any grease)
Cooked Chicken or Turkey (Steamed or baked)
Low Fat Cottage Cheese
Fish Cod (Cooked removing bones and skin)
Grasshoppers (Pet Shop)
Mealworms (Pet Shop)
Crickets (Pet Shop)
Bread(whole grain no white bread) soaked in milk ( Low Fat, Skim, Soy)
Eggs ( boiled or scrambled)
Plain Tofu
Plain Low Fat Yogurt
Dog Biscuits (No Garlic, onion, or onion powder)
Monkey Chow
Lab Blocks

OTHER FOODS

Buckwheat
Baby Food(low sugar and no onion or garlic)
Cheese (mild cheeses in moderation)
Cooked Plain Brown Rice
Cooked Pasta(Wheat or Spinach would be better)
Dry toast(Also helpful for diarrhea
Flax seed
Low or Sugarless Cereals
Pumpkin Seeds - unsalted
Nuts (No almonds)
Sesame Seeds
Soybeans(Roasted no salt)
Squash seeds
Lentils
Oatmeal(dry or soaked in skim or lowfat milk)
Nutritional Yeast
Bran and Wheat Germ (Refrigerated goes bad fast)
Peanuts (unsalted)
Alfafa
Unsalted Popcorn (no butter)

FOODS TO AVOID

Almonds (Contains Cyanic Acid)
Apple Seeds
Canned food
Chocolate
Candies
Chips and Junk food
Pork Products
Potatoes (Raw)
Raw Kidney Beans
Eggplant
Fool's Parsley
Grape Seeds
Avocado (Contains Cardiac Glycosides)
Raw Rhubarb
Tomato leaves
Oranges or Tangerines(no citrus fruits)
No watermelon (the water content is high causes diarrhea)
Cherry Stone
Peach Stone & Leaves
Apricot Stone
Lemon or Lime
Jams and jellies
Spices
Garlic
Onions
Leeks
Scallions
Chives
Pickles

How to Litter Box train your Hamster

2012-02-27T19:46:00.000-05:00

As many hamster owners know, a hamster's cage can get dirty very quickly and require frequent cleaning. What many hamster owners don't know, however, is that a hamster can be easily trained to use a small litter box that is placed in his or her cage. When you train your hamster to use a litter box, you just have to clean the litter box regularly and you don't have to clean the whole hamster cage as often. This will save you a lot of time, frustration, and money on fresh bedding. Plus, the less hamster bedding you use the better it is for the environment. Luckily, because hamsters have a natural instinct to always go to the bathroom in the same spot, it is easy to train them to use a litter box.

To get started, you will need to head to the pet store and buy a small plastic dish to hold the litter, along with a box of special "hamster litter" pellets. It is very important that you don't use cat litter as it contains fine particles that will irritate your hamster's respiratory system. Major pet store chains like Petco and PetSmart carry the special hamster litter, or you can find it online at websites like Amazon. Once you have the litter dish and hamster litter, you are ready to go. Just put about an inch of hamster litter in the plastic dish, and use a spoon or scoop to place a small amount of soiled bedding from your hamster's cage into the litter. Now, place the litter dish in the exact same corner of the cage that your hamster currently uses to go to the bathroom. Make sure to "bury" it a little bit so it is the same level as the rest of the bedding in the cage.

Almost immediately, you will notice that your hamster smells his new bathroom spot and begins using it for elimination. While most hamsters will begin using the litter box immediately, other hamsters may take a few days to adjust. Adding more soiled bedding to the hamster litter box can make the scent stronger, encouraging your hamster to go to the bathroom there. Don't be alarmed if your hamster eats a few of the litter pellets. They are non-toxic and will not harm your hamster. Your hamster will quickly learn that the litter pellets are not food. By litter training your hamster, you'll create a cleaner and healthier cage for them and a lot less cleaning for yourself!

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2012

2012-01-01T18:02:00.002-05:00

TIMES SQUARE, NEW YORK. HAPPY NEW YEAR - 2012

What to Do If Your Hamster Gives Birth and Then Dies

2011-11-30T16:18:00.002-05:00

One of the sweetest things you will ever see is a mother hamster and her newborn babies (pups). Hamster pups are born hairless, vulnerable and with their eyes closed. They rely on their mother for everything, including warmth, food, and safety. If the mother hamster dies suddenly before the pups are weaned, there is a chance they will die too.

If the pups are at least 10 days old they have a better chance of making it, but if they are only a day or two old they might not make it no matter how much you try or what you do. If you have another hamster (of the same breed) who has recently given birth, you can try to introduce the pups to the surrogate mother. Before putting the pups into the new mother's cage you must first wash the smell of their birth mother off of them. You have to be extra careful when doing this while making sure all the original scent is gone. First thing you need to do is gather a handful of the surrogate mothers bedding, close to her own pups nest and set it aside in a shoe box. You want the bedding material to smell like her babies.

Wet a paper towel with warm water and sponge the pups off one by one. When they are cleaned of their original scent, gently place them into the surrogate mothers bedding you gathered up. Because you stimulated them while bathing, they should be wriggling around when you set them into the bedding. This will help get the new scent on them and aid in the new mother accepting them into her nest.

Place the surrogate mothers cage in a quiet place and tempt her out of her nest with her favorite treat. Try to keep the mother busy at one end of the cage, if she starts to run right back to her nest with her treat, gently block her way unless she starts getting upset. If she is easily handled and lets you take her out of the cage while she eats her treat, that would be best.

While mom is eating her treat, gently scoop up the pups and bedding into a large plastic spoon and place the pups and bedding into the surrogate mothers nest and let the new pups wriggle around with the other babies. Try not to get your human smell on the pups or the bedding if you can help it, wearing gloves can help with this. The goal is for the new babies to end up smelling just like the babies that were originally in the nest.

Place the mother back into the cage and let her go to her nest. Do not bother her or the cage again for at least a day. If this works, the next time you look into the cage all the babies will be squirming around the mother. If she rejects the orphans, she may wind up eating them. This is normal hamster behavior and is to be expected even with her own brood of babies if she detects they are sick or she gets upset or nervous.

Things are quite different if you find yourself having to hand raise the orphaned pups yourself. If the mother has died, you need to remove her from the cage and dispose of the body. Most hamster lovers find that burying their beloved pets helps with the grieving process.

The pups will be cold since they no longer have their mothers' warmth. You will need to get them warm as soon as possible by placing them in a warm room in a shoe box or something similar, filled with shredded toilet paper or paper towels, until you clean out their cage.

Clean and dry their cage really well and then place them back inside along with the shredded bedding. Get a heating pad and place a towel on top of it, now sit the cage on top of that and set the heating pad to the lowest setting. This will help keep the pups warm without allowing them to get overheated from the heating pad.

Newborn pups need to be fed every hour for the first 10 days. Then every two hours until they are 15 days old and every three hours until they are approximately 20 days old. There are several types of milk you can feed to hamsters. You can get kitten formula from a veterinarian or pet store, baby formula or even a mix of equal parts evaporated milk and warm water.

Newborn pups need between two and three drops of formula every hour. Feeding the pups with an eye dropper is the easiest, but while you want them to drink the formula you also have to make sure they don't inhale it into their lungs. Do not force the formula into their mouths; let them slowly lick it off the eye dropper. After each feeding you will need to stimulate each pup to urinate and defecate the same way the mother would do if she were around. The easiest way to do this is to rub the genital and anal area with a soft, warm, moist cloth or you can also use a wet Q-tip. If you don't do this the pups are likely to have urinary and bowel problems or obstructions and die.

When they are walking around a little you can fill the water bottle up with a mixture of one half children's pedialyte and one half water. The pedialyte will help them from getting dehydrated. Make sure to keep their food dish full of normal food. Bread soaked with milk is another thing they will eat, just put it on a small lid and remove it and wash the lid each night. You can also add small amounts of boiled egg, vegetables, apples, canned dog food and wheat germ. Each day you will need to remove any uneaten soft foods. If you let the foods stay too long they will spoil and can cause death to the hamsters. When the hamsters are about 20 days old, they should be weaned enough that you can stop feeding them the formula.

Although you may have done everything right and taken the time to feed, love and care for the pups over days or even weeks, there is still a chance they may not make it. No matter what happens you should be proud of yourself for trying.

All About Hamster Cages

2011-10-28T15:39:00.001-04:00

Hamster cages come in a great variety of materials, shapes and sizes. There are metal cages, solid tanks and expandable cages available for sale or you could just build your own. It is easy to design a unique cage for your hamster.

What are the basic requirements of a hamster cage?

The cage needs to be strong enough to contain the hamster and also keep other pets out. It should be easy to clean and a good flow of air for ventilation. These animals can be messy, so there must be separate places to keep fresh water and food clean. They will need an enclosed area for sleeping that is warm and free from drafts. Hamsters are very active and will need toys to give them exercise and keep them amused.

Advantages of different types of cages.

Wire cages are the most popular because they are pretty inexpensive and are almost always available. They provide a good flow of air for ventilation and usually have an enclosed sleeping area. They are available in various sizes and have a removable plastic tray for easy cleaning to provide good hygiene. Hamsters will climb the bars of a wire cage for exercise and fun. The wire will hold a water dripper bottle to keep the drinking water clean and food dishes may hang from the wire also. Lots of other accessories are available to attach to a wire hamster cage, to personalize it and give a good variety for your hamster.

Plastic tank type hamster cages are available - these are easy to clean but do not allow for good ventilation for the hamster. Children can see the animal but cannot interact so well with it because of the solid structure of the tank. Their main advantage is that they allow the surrounding area to be kept cleaner.

Novelty hamster cages in fancy shapes are now available which are set up in themes, with the toys and furniture in keeping with that theme. They are fun for children to own, but make sure there is good ventilation. Some cages are expandable by adding compartments or rooms that clip on to your original cage to add extra space or interest. These come in a large range of shapes and sizes and tubes can connect the different areas and hamsters love to run through them. You can build a hamster cage to any design you want using this method.

It is possible to build your own cage. A handyman can easily make a hamster cage from wood and wire. Blueprints are available on the internet. This allows you to make a cage that has a unique design that will be different from other cages that you would find in the stores.

What do hamsters need?

* It is important to provide fresh water every day. Clean out the water bottle daily and then refill it. Food should be in a container that the hamster can reach into but not sit in, and this should also be cleaned and replaced every day.

* The cage will need cleaning every week, more often if you have many hamsters. The animals will get sick if it has to live in unclean conditions.

* Hamsters are active animals and will need some toys to keep fit and amused. They are really fun to watch as they run on wheels, through tubes and tunnels and climb ladders. There is a variety of hamster toys available. Just make sure not to clutter the cage with too many things. It is better to keep some out and have a change of toys occasionally to prevent them from getting bored.

Can we learn important lessons from Hamsters.....

2011-10-20T14:19:00.003-04:00

When a family adopts their first hamster, they learn a few things. You would think it would be more along the lines of hamster care and responsibility. Throughout your time in caring for various hamsters, you will actually learned quite a bit more. Humans can actually learn many important lessons from hamsters. Here are what I feel are the most important things hamsters teach people.

Store food for later use. If you've ever had a pet hamster, you likely noticed that they'll take their food from the dish and find a place in their cage to store it. Each time a hamster is fed, they will move some or most of the food into this storage area. Some people store up extra food for emergencies. Yet others do not. What will you do if there is an emergency, such as a natural disaster? What if your family suddenly loses a main income source? Are you storing food for later use? If not, take a lesson from the hamster and start building up your food supply. Stockpiling can be squeezed into any budget.

Exercise often. Say for instance you have three hamsters. They all exercise several times per day. I don't know how on earth they run on the wheel so fast for so long. But they do it. Hamsters also like to climb the cage, run around the cage, climb on people, run through obstacle courses, and so much more. Each moment they are awake, the hamsters will be doing something active. Leading an active lifestyle is good for a hamster's health. Staying active is also healthy for you. So take another lesson from hamsters and stay active. Spend less time on your couch and more time doing activities that get you moving. From yoga, to racing around the backyard, to hitting the nature trails, swimming at the local pool, and more, there are plenty of ways to stay active.

Sleep is important. Hamsters like to sleep. They sleep a good portion of time throughout the day. While they are extremely active during their waking hours, hamsters sure know how to nap. Although hamsters are classified as nocturnal, they also have some diurnal tendencies. We often rescue hamsters when we have room and have had experience with several. One thing I noticed with all of the hamsters right away is their sleep pattern. Every hamster that I have seen breaks up their days and night into sections. They're usually active for two to three hours. Then, they'll sleep for about the same amount of time or longer. This cycle repeats itself throughout the day. While most people cannot follow that exact schedule, it;s important to take a lesson from hamsters about how important sleep is. Refresh your body each time you do something strenuous. If you work hard, you need to get proper rest afterward.

Why do Hamsters fight with one another

2011-09-29T19:52:00.002-04:00

There are several types of hamsters and most are not social. Dwarf hamsters are the only hamsters that can be raised and housed together when they are adults. Syrian hamsters on the other hand will fight all the time if housed together as adults, even if they are siblings. Syrian hamsters or Teddy bear hamsters as they are sometimes called, should always be housed in their own cage. You should remember one hamster per cage in most cases.

Even though dwarf hamsters can be housed together in the same cage, if fighting amongst them starts and gets bad you should get another cage and house each of the separately. Sometimes they will live together and get along wonderfully, and other times there will be nonstop fighting. Dwarf hamster will play fight when they are awake. You can tell it's play fighting when you hear the squeaking and they look like they are tackling one another, but neither hamster is seriously getting hurt. This is totally normal behavior.

Female dwarf hamsters are more likely to fight with one another if one is more dominate than the other or if one is larger than the other one. They will also fight if one is pregnant. If you buy two dwarf hamsters from a pet store and they start fighting when you get them home, you should separate them into their own cages.

Always closely watch new female hamsters for signs they are pregnant. If you notice your female hamster is more aggressive, making a nest, or has a swollen belly she may be pregnant. You should make an appointment with a Veterinarian to make sure her and her babies are healthy.

If you want to breed your Syrian hamsters you will need to bring the female and the males together in a neutral place when she is in heat. When they are finished doing their business put both of them back in their own cage. Even though they may have babies together, they can't live together. Syrian hamsters like to have their homes all to themselves. Syrian hamsters can inflict serious damage to each other when fighting, so make sure you do everything you can to prevent fights from breaking out.

If you keep several dwarf hamsters in the same cage, you should take all of them out to play with you at the same time. Hamsters are forgetful and if kept apart from their cage mates for too long may fight because they may lose the group scent that tells them they are friends. Hamster will groom each other and sometimes if they get too rough you will hear a little squeaking noise. They are letting the other hamster know they are being too rough and in most cases the hamster will stop.

Make sure you give your hamsters lots to do in their cage so they don't get bored and frustrated and fight with their cage mates. The more toys they have to play with the better for their health and it keeps them happy.

You should only keep one breed of hamster housed together; never try caging a Syrian and a Dwarf hamster in the same cage. They may fight to the end and it may cause them to die from being stressed out.

France reprimanded for not protecting dwindling wild Hamsters

2011-09-29T19:43:00.000-04:00

The European Court of Justice is reprimanding France for not doing enough to care for its dwindling population of wild hamsters.

A great hamster of Alsace at a breeding centre in eastern France dedicated to its reintroduction.

The court found that France has allowed unsuitable crop planting and unchecked urbanization to destroy nearly 1000 hamster burrows in six years.

Wild European hamsters - which can live for four years and grow to more than 20 centimetres in length - are threatened with extinction in their small habitat in Alsace, eastern France.

Under the ruling, France must adjust its agriculture and urbanisation practices or face daily fines from the European Union.

There are an estimated 800 of the small black-bellied species, also known as the great hamster of Alsace, left in France.

Hamsterness

2011-09-03T21:39:00.000-04:00

to raise a dwarf hamster.

2011-07-19T10:49:00.000-04:00

These are some dwarf hamsters. to raise dwarf hamsters, here are some things that you should have:

a safe and cool house.
a bag of hamster food.
a water bottle. a bowl will also work.
pine bedding or aspen bedding. DO NOT USE CEDAR!
chew toys would be very good.
you should give them some treats sometimes. but not ALL the time!
an exercise wheel.
a food dish.
the dwarf hamster, of course!

If you are thinking of buying one, go to http://www.buycheaper.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us13&q=dwarf+hamsters+for+sale.

To find out much more about dwarf hamsters, go to http://russiandwarfhamsters.tripod.com/hams/index/html