Handyman Home Repair

Goop Adhesive And Sealant Replaces Dog As Handyman's Best Friend!!

2012-10-15T11:54:00.001-07:00

GOOP and GOOP or adhesive

Naming something GOOP is risky at best... because there are lots of goops out there... (Prestashop Tunisie)for example there's GOOP, the hand cleaning, shoe cleaning, clothes cleaning product. And, of course, these's always "generic" goop...
what the heck is that goop on the wall? Or in the back of the refrigerator? Or in your kid's closet? Sharepoint Tunisie
There is even GOOP FOR KIDS that can be made from ordinary household chemicals... sort of a gooshy clay with an attitude!
OKAY, Handyman... stop ranting and get to the point!

Well, the GOOP that we "handyfolk" find so attractive is the adhesive product made by Eclectic Products, Inc. It is marketed with names such as Plumber's GOOP®, Automotive GOOP®, Carpenter's GOOP®, Sportsman's GOOP®, etc. Eclectic even has a product to repair shoes called Shoe Goo®, which is a favorite of joggers trying to get a few more miles out of the worn soles on their running shoes.
I have used a few of these "different" products and my vote is that they all seem to be about the same, except for the colors. Though my experience has been corroborated by every handyperson and hardware store magnate that has ever opened a tube of this great stuff, there are some subtle differences brought to my attention by MR of Hampton, VA. He wrote to Eclectic Products and received this response:

Amazing GOOP® and Craft GOOP® contain a thinner formula for precise, detailed work.
Wood & Furniture GOOP® is a thicker, non-slump formula perfect for vertical and overhead applications.
Automotive GOOP®, Household GOOP® and Plumbing GOOP® are all the same formula.
Lawn & Garden GOOP®, Marine GOOP®, RV GOOP® and Sport and Outdoor GOOP® are all UV-resistant.
Shoe GOO® is a more rubbery formula allowing for greater flexibility.

The most amazing thing about GOOP is that it works under the most adverse conditions, it sticks to virtually everything and remains flexible!

I used GOOP to repair a broken dishwasher utensil holder that had split on the bottom. It has been 3+ years, and the GOOP is still holding (though it has discolored from the original clear to an unappetizing yellowish tone)! Thank the dishwasher's heat for that!

It will not stick to very dirty, wet or greasy surfaces. But then, what could, except for a fly's feet?

Because of it's tooling characteristics, which are poor, GOOP cannot be used in place of latex or silicone caulks where appearance is critical.

Handyman's Favorite uses for GOOP...

Loose laminate edging on wood shelving, cabinets, and kitchen counters...

If you have a substantial area of loose laminate on your kitchen countertop surface, you have a problem more major than GOOP can handle. However, if you have plastic laminate or wood edge banding that has released, GOOP is a great substitute for contact cement or wood glues. It adheres to the old glue without complaint and is more forgiving... if you slightly misalign the laminate, you have a few minutes to make corrections. If you have worked with contact cement, you know that once contact is made it's a done deal!

Apply the GOOP to either surface. Do not over apply or put it too close to the edges; this minimizes squeeze out. Press the laminate into place firmly. Then pull it back off for a few seconds to allow the GOOP solvent to partially evaporate. This increases GOOP's tackiness. Press back together and apply masking tape or low-tack painter's tape at 6 inch intervals to hold laminate in place as the GOOP dries. GOOP dries through solvent evaporation, so drying is slow between two nonporous surfaces. Full strength may not be achieved for days. However, enough holding strength is reached in 24 hours for careful tape removal.

Leaks in cracked faux marble sinks

If you have a cracked "faux marble" sink that is leaking either around the drain hole or through stress cracks, I have gotten much better results with GOOP than with silicone or latex caulk. Be sure the area to be sealed is dry and clean. To be sure, give the area to be sealed a wipe with alcohol to remove any residual soap scum or other nastiness. Apply the GOOP to the underside of the sink, not the "service side".

Apply GOOP generously all around the leaky area, working it into the cracks but keeping it built up at least 1/8" thick, extending the GOOP 1/2" on either side of the crack. Overnight drying is required before use. You can accelerate the drying with a hair dryer or heat gun, but do not overheat the GOOP or your repair may fail!

Leaks in plumbing drains...

I would not recommend the use of any adhesive for high pressure leaks in water supply lines. But, if you have a leak around a drain fitting under a sink, and just don't feel like doing the correct repair right now, you can do a temporary repair with GOOP. Clean the area well, wipe with alcohol, and apply the GOOP generously to the joint or crack.

Repairs on wooden items, such as doors, drawers, furniture, and cabinets...

White and yellow wood glues are almost worthless for repairing failed fittings in wood pieces that have already been glued once. The original gluing sealed the wood and, since wood glues depend on the porosity of the wood to assist in holding, the second attempt is an exercise in futility. It may hold for a short period of time but with very low strength. And the prep necessary to get a good second gluing is tedious at best and may require complete disassembly of the piece. Bring in the wrecking ball!

I don't recommend GOOP for fine cabinet work. It is not sandable... too rubbery... and does not absorb wood stain or paint so any squeeze out will be a cosmetic problem you'll need plastic surgery to correct! Also, like hot melt glues, GOOP is stronger in thicker applications so I would not use it instead of wood glues in new, tight-fitting joints.

I have found GOOP's greatest value is in concealed wood repairs such as behind separated cabinet face frames (especially where nailing is awkward or impossible), under or behind drawers to reinforce weak joints and for split or broken doors where the repair will not be seen. These include the "classic" stress splits that occur on the top and bottom pivot-side of bifolding doors. GOOP is also a top choice for reglueing the laminate separation that plagues flush (smooth-faced) and/or moulded doors... phoney-baloney six panel doors that are really formed from gluing preshaped hardboard panels to a wooden frame.
Chair spindle repair... You can do a quality chair spindle repair with GOOP that will outlast any wood glue repair. Put GOOP in the spindle hole and on the spindle. Press together and clamp to squeeze out excess GOOP. You should have some squeeze out... if not, then reopen joint and apply a little more GOOP. Wipe excess with a clean cloth or paper towel immediately, taking care not to smear the GOOP on adjacent wood. Let dry clamped for at least 24 hours.

Sloppy furniture joints... GOOP is also a standout in the repair of loose joints where strength is a priority and appearance less so. You know... the sloppy-fitting joints in old "workhorse" chairs like the beat up old beast you got from Uncle Harry that you just can't send to the glue factory! Wood glues require a decently tight fit, two-part epoxies are too brittle to stand the flexing stresses of a chair and caulks just aren't strong enough. GOOP fills the voids in this glue vacuum, packing the joint with firm adhesive strength.

REMOVING GOOP...

According to Abby from GOOP Central (1-800-693-GOOP or 1-800-767-GOOP), there are three recommended solvents for GOOP. They are acetone, toluene and naphtha. Acetone will do a good job on GOOP that has not fully set. Toluene is a more powerful solvent that will remove fully set GOOP. Naphtha, a solvent used in dry cleaning and a primary component of Zippo®, Ronson® and other lighter fluids (used in wick-type cigarette lighters), is recommended for removing GOOP on clothing.

It is important to follow all precautions on the solvent's label. Test a little of the solvent on the surface first... no sense getting surprised by some sort of bizarre chemical reaction, such as your cellular phone melting into the carpet!

Auto Body Filler Is For More Than Cars

2012-10-15T11:14:00.004-07:00

A winner for a variety of wood gluing and other repairs!

Auto body filler is an excellent wood filler and adhesive. It sets up quickly, has great adhesive properties. Unlike many softer fillers, it not only fills voids but can be cut and routed as cleanly as the original wood.
prix maison bois
Auto body filler is a time-saver too! It can be applied, sanded and painted within an hour... a great time saver (and also saves my customer's the expense of a second visit). It is also weatherproof, waterproof and insect-proof.
Auto body filler sets gradually, proceeding through various stages of firmness, to a final extremely hard state. It is also temperature dependent and sets much faster in warm weather than in cool. If you are really impatient, setting time can be decreased by careful use of a hair dryer or heat gun. But don't overdo it or you may burn the adhesive!!
This gradual-setting characteristic requires vigilance... especially when your filler sets harder than the material you are filling. For instance, say you filled a hole in a piece of white pine and let the auto body filler fully set. When you tried to sand it, you would wear down the pine around the auto body filler patch and never obtain a flat surface. So you must stick with the job and check the hardness of the filler every couple of minutes, sanding smooth before full hardness is reached.
Ditto for shaped repairs. auto body filler works well with a planer or a knife while in intermediate stages of hardness, but is almost uncuttable with hand tools once fully set. However, if you are planning to work it with power tools, such as a drill, power saw, or router, you can let the patch set to full hardness without fear! Because auto body filler sticks well to itself, you can build up your patches, filling a hole- level or slightly below- and then adding a "skim coat" to fill any imperfections from the first coat. If you prefer, you can also use other wood or wall patching materials with auto body filler to do that oh-so-critical final smoothing of the surface. Though there are thinner products for the "final coat" in fine automotive repairs, I haven't found these necessary for general household repairs.
When doing large repairs or deep fills, you can and should use pieces of wood to take up some space so you don't have to use as much filler. Putting a few screws into the material within the hole prior to filling will also add strength to the repair and keep the filler in place. The screw heads should be at least 1/8" beneath the projected "level" surface of the auto body filler repair.
Bondo ®, the original auto body filler, is manufactured by Bondo/Mar-Hyde Corporation. For your car repair buffs, Bondo has developed a one-part filler that is activated by ultraviolet light... either from the sun or better from a special lamp! I would advise against use of the "natural" method for those of you in the land of the midnight sun... especially during those loooong nights! Get the lamp, already!
Other manufacturers of auto body filler are J&B, Kardol, and Evercoat.
Minwax produces a product known as High Performance Wood Filler. It is for all intents and purposes identical to auto body filler except that the color is a light brown wood tone. It comes in smaller packages than auto body filler and is quite a bit more expensive. I use this product for everyday repairs because of the conveniently sized can, but for the larger fill jobs I use auto body filler . It's always nice to save money, don't you think?

CPSC Announces October as Window Covering Safety Month

2012-07-24T06:34:00.003-07:00

Consumers Urged to Repair or Replace Old Window Coverings

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), the Window Covering Safety Council and independent retailers have joined forces to raise awareness of strangulation risks presented by window covering cords and chains.

October has been designated "Window Covering Safety Month" by CPSC and the industry coalition. U.S. consumers are encouraged to repair or replace window coverings purchased before 2001 and to keep all window cords and chains out of the reach of young children. Through point-of-sale signage in retail stores, advertising circulars in newspapers and other marketing means, consumers will be alerted to the availability of free repair kits and strongly urged to repair or replace older window coverings.

"Window Covering Safety Month is an important national initiative. Repairing or replacing your window coverings is the first line of defense," said CPSC Chairman Hal Stratton. "Consumers should also secure cords and chains so they are out of children's reach. Cribs and furniture should be kept away from window coverings so that children can not play with them."

Since 1991, CPSC has received reports of 174 strangulation deaths involving cords and chains on window coverings. 152 deaths involved the outer-pull cords, which raise and lower the blind. 22 deaths involved the inner-cords, which run through the window blind slats.

Outer-pull cord deaths typically involve children ranging in age from 8-months to 6-years. Inner-cord deaths typically involve children ranging in age from 9-months to 17-months who are placed in cribs or playpens located within reach of window coverings. In all cases, the children became inadvertently entangled and died from strangulation.
In recent years, mini blinds and window-covering manufacturers have produced redesigned products to reduce cord hazards. These redesigns have reduced the opportunity to create hazardous loops in the cords or chains. The redesigns have also featured permanently attached tie-down anchors and built-in cord stops.

It is important to note: although redesigned newer window coverings and repaired older window coverings reduce the risk of strangulation - they have not fully eliminated the hazard. Long dangling window cords and chains still pose a strangulation hazard for young children. Consumers should never tie window blind cords or chains together because the knot creates a new loop, which could cause a young child to become entangled.

During the month of October, CPSC urges consumers to carefully inspect the cords and chains of all of their window coverings. Consumers are also encouraged to consider cordless coverings and other alternative window coverings, which have been recently introduced throughout the country by manufacturers. Consumers with older window coverings are urged to repair or replace their window coverings.

Consumers possessing window coverings purchased before 2001 can obtain a free repair kit from the Window Covering Safety Council's web site at www.windowcoverings.org or by calling 1-800-504-4636.

Individuals can also visit www.cpsc.gov to learn more about window covering safety. A list of firms and organizations participating in Window Covering Safety Month is attached.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission -- an independent federal agency created by Congress in 1973 and charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products -- will continue to monitor and investigate incidents involving window coverings. CPSC will continue working with the window covering industry to further reduce strangulation hazards through new designs and advances in technology.

Window Covering Safety Tips

    1. Move all cribs, beds, furniture and toys away from windows and window cords, preferably to another wall.

    2. Keep all window cords out of the reach of children. Make sure that tasseled pull cords are short, and that continuous-loop cords are permanently anchored to the floor or wall.

    3. Lock cords into position when lowering horizontal coverings or shades to prevent inner-cord hazards.

    4. Repair window coverings, corded shades and draperies manufactured before 2001 with retrofit cord-repair devices, or replace them with today's safer products.

    5. Consider installing cordless window coverings in children's bedrooms and play areas.

Retailers, Manufacturers and Importers Participating in Window Covering Safety Campaign

Window Covering Safety Council Members

3 Day Blinds, Inc.
Ikea U.S.
RollEase, Inc.
Achim Imports
JC Penney
Royal Window Coverings USA
All Strong Industrial USA Corp.
Julius Koch USA Inc.
Springs Window Fashions
Big Lots Stores, Inc.
Kenny Manufacturing
Superior Window Shades
Blinds To Go
K-Mart Corporation
Target Corporate
C-MOR Shade Products Corp.
Levolor Kirsch
Value City Department Stores
Chateau Enterprises Inc.
Lewis Hyman Inc.
Vertilux Ltd.
Comfortex Window Fashions
Lotus & Windoware, Inc.
Vista Products, Inc.
Custom Craft Company
Main Fine USA
Wal-Mart Stores, Inc
Elegant Windows
Next Day Blinds
Gilmore Enterprises Inc.
Pier One Imports
Hunter Douglas Inc.
Richview by Tehdex

In addition to the efforts of the above, state health departments, children's hospitals, and housing authorities around the country, the following organizations have also joined WCSC in promoting window-covering safety.

Window Coverings Association of America
International Mass Retailers Association
American Medical Association
National Safe Kids Campaign chapters
American Society of Safety Engineers
National Apartment Association

Independent Retailers (not members of Window Covering Safety Council)

Home Depot
Lowes

Natural Gas vs. Propane

2012-07-24T06:23:00.000-07:00

So much gas... so little time!

Here is the text of a question asked by a reader concerning the differences between natural gas and propane, as well as some tips concerning gas appliance conversions. Enjoy!
Dear NH,
What is the difference between propane and natural gas? According to our state laws, I can use one type for gas fireplace logs and not the other. Why?

Natural gas is a naturally occurring fuel extracted from deep within the earth.

It is not one gas but a mixture of various naturally-occurring gases. The types of gasses in this stew vary from well to well. Natural gas is primarily methane (alias "cow" flatulence), but also contains other flammable gases such as propane, butane, carbon monoxide and hydrogen. The main uses for natural gas in homes are for heating, hot water, clothes drying and cooking.

Propane is extracted from natural gas, and is one of the so-called LP gases. 'LP' is an acronym for "liquefied petroleum". Many years ago, it was found that propane could be turned into a liquid, or "liquefied", under fairly low pressure. This quality allows shipping and storage of large volumes of propane gas in relatively small containers. Other gases can also be liquefied, but propane is by far the most common LP gas. Because of this the terms LP gas and propane are often used interchangeably.

Propane is the fuel commonly used for portable appliances such as gas grills, stoves, lanterns, soldering guns and heaters. However, homes without access to natural gas can install large LP tanks outside and pipe the gas in for use with stationary appliances. Because of the consistency of the product, LP gas appliances can be designed to be more efficient than natural gas appliances. The portability of the fuel makes LP gas accessible to a wider number of people.

Because all homes do not have access to natural gas, many manufacturers design their products to use LP gas instead. This makes them more widely useful and, of course, salable!! Depending on the product and its design, it may also be compatible with natural gas. This, of course, is something the company must determine so that their product is used safely. In the case of your fireplace logs, for example, if you cannot legally use the fuel gas they were designed for within your fireplace, contact the manufacturer.

They may have a conversion kit available to allow the logs to use the other gas. State safety departments have written laws concerning the use of gas appliances. These laws are not consistent across the country. The best source of information concerning your local regulations would be the state regulatory agency involved.

Exterior Caulking Is a Good Idea

2011-12-23T08:00:00.000-08:00

Exterior caulking is good both in hot weather and cold. Weatherstripping your doors is a great idea. It will stop breezes, bugs and other outside nuisances from entering your house. You might venture outside and take a look at what you can do there as well. You should also take along a tube of caulking.

The type of caulking to use will depend on the application, but you will likely need exterior paintable caulking for doors and windows.
Read the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure it is used for its intended purpose.
Caulking is a fix-all for all sorts of situations since it’s a great adhesive in a pinch, but is shines at filling gaps. You might even call it “weatherstripping in a tube.”

Walk around the house paying close attention to doors and windows. Around the doors, lay a bead of caulking around the perimeter of the door, in between the molding and the siding (or stucco).
Also, check at the threshold of the door and lay down a bead between the bottom of the threshold and the slab or deck. This will help keep bugs out. Plus, on doors that have no protection via an overhang, the bead of caulking will help keep rainwater from seeping under the threshold.

By the way, don’t buy the caulking that’s squeezed out by hand. Use a caulking gun and load a tube into it. Cut the tip at a 45-degree angle. The size of the opening can vary, but start out at about one-eighth of an inch. Use a long nail or piece of wire to punch through to the caulk. Squeeze the trigger and lay down the bead of caulking, and then run your finger over the bead to smoosh the caulk into the cracks.
Check out the windows in the same manner. The general rule: when in doubt, caulk it. Caulk around the perimeter of the window, being careful not to cover the weep holes in the window frame.

Water is a home’s nemesis, so seal around any points of entry, such as vents.
For sealing roof gaps, use a roof sealant (it also comes in a tube that can be loaded into your caulking gun). Now, working on the roof can obviously be dangerous and this is one area where you might consider hiring someone. Not only is working on your roof dangerous, but you can also damage your roof by walking on the tiles.
The idea is to keep the elements outside the house.

Toilet Fixes For a Poor Flush

2011-12-23T07:55:00.000-08:00

A poor toilet flush can cause the entire household to use a different toilet. Let’s face it, only the rare few want to be blamed for stopping up a toilet. There are a couple of things to look for. Maybe you have a partial blockage, or maybe there isn’t enough water going down the bowl to clear it.
A partial blockage is frustrating because you don’t know if there is something down there or not. I’ve pulled toys, ink pens, glasses …you get the picture. A good plunging or a snake should clear the trap, but you may have to pull the toilet from the floor and clear it from the bottom. You also may have a blocked vent on the roof.

Also make sure you get a good rush of water down the bowl when you flush the toilet. Start by holding the handle down and seeing if the waste gets flushed away. If it does, you can try to adjust the flapper so it stays up longer to allow more water to flow. You can also replace the flapper with a “dial-a-flush” flapper which allows you to control how long the flapper stays up.

Check under the rim of the toilet to see if there are any blocked holes. When you flush the toilet, water fills the rim and rushes out of these holes. Use a mirror (a cosmetics compact mirror is good here). Hold the mirror low enough so that you can see the holes and determine if there are clogged with scale. If they are, you have found your problem.

Whole House HEPA Air Cleaners and Filtration Systems for Allergy Relief

2011-12-16T07:19:00.000-08:00

Everyone has a physical tolerance level for airborne chemicals and particulates. Some people have a higher tolerance than others for dirty air, but it affects everyone. Children whose respiratory system is still developing are at greater risk of asthma or allergies if they are exposed to many airborne contaminants.

Increased levels of contaminants in the air can even affect the well-being of fully developed healthy adults.
The higher the level of contaminants in the air, the quicker a person can reach their tolerance level. Then the contaminants could start to damage their respiratory system and their general health. Significant reduction of contaminants in the home can help the body recover from constant exposure to contaminants outside the home. We like to say this reduction in the stress to our respiratory system can be compared to a good nights sleep for a tired athlete.

What the heck is a "HEPA" filter?
HEPA is a filtration standard created by the U.S. Atomic Energy Commission. HEPA stands for “High Efficiency Particulate Air”. Some providers refer to HEPA as “High Efficiency Particulate Arresting”. Both terms refer to the same technology. HEPA filter media is proven to be 99.97% efficient @ 0.3 microns (a micron is 1/1,000,000 of a meter or 1/25,000th of an inch). Due to their extremely high efficiency, HEPA filters have become widely used in medical, electronic and industrial applications. In particular, HEPA is the air purification method used in operating rooms, clean rooms, space research and isolation chambers.

The graphic below shows the relative size of particles that can be removed by air filters. HEPA filters can remove particles finer than smoke! Amazing!!

Particles that can be removed by air filters

HEPA filters are composed of a various sized borosilicate fibers, which are pressed together to form a netlike structure with openings large enough for air to pass through but too small for most particulates.

HEPA air cleaners are effective in controlling:
Household dust
Animal dander
Pollen
Bacteria
Dust mite feces.

Good HEPA air cleaners incorporate both activated carbon and/or zeolite for odor and gas control, in addition to particle removal.

Carbon Volatile Organic Compound (V.O.C.) Blankets:

Like Carbon Pre-filters, the Carbon Inner Blanket is placed in the air purifier as an additional purification media. It is a form of charcoal which has the ability to remove impurities from air, gas, and liquids. When various impurities come into contact with the activated carbon, the constituent molecules become trapped in tiny capillary passages on the surface of the carbon in a process called adsorption. Due to differences in molecular structures, some impurities are more readily adsorbed than others.

Carbon/Zeolite V.O.C. Cartridges:

V.O.C. cartridges can also make up part of the cleansing capability of the air purifier. These cartridges capture contaminants the same way as a Carbon Blanket, but they use solid carbon and zeolite pellets which have a comparably larger surface area. This makes V.O.C. cartridges the filter of choice for situations where V.O.C. removal is a prime objective.

Since HEPA filters coupled with additional air cleaning capability have a very high air resistance, they cannot be installed directly in-line in a Heating and Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system. Instead, whole house HEPA filtration systems must be installed in a by-pass configuration using a separate blower motor system.

HEPA Whole House Filter By-Pass Configuration

Because HEPA units work on the air exchange principle - air is cleaned by continually pulling air from the room into the filtering/cleaning device and exhausting clean air - their effectiveness is determined by calculating the number of air exchanges per hour in a given area.

The greater the number of air changes in a home that occurs, the cleaner the air. To calculate air changes per hour (ACH) for your particular home and particular HEPA unit you can use this formula:

One air change occurs in a room when a quantity of air equal to the volume of the room is filtered by the HEPA filter unit. Air change rates are units of ventilation that compare the amount of air moving through a space to the volume of the space. ACH is the volume of air (usually expressed in cubic feet) moved every hour divided by the room volume (also usually expressed in cubic feet).

Airflow is usually measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Your HEPA filter blower will have a CFM rating assigned to its blower. This is multiplied by 60 minutes to determine the volume of air filtered through the unit per hour (in cubic feet)

To calculate room volume (in cubic feet), multiply average room height (in feet) by the room area (in square feet). Room area is the room width (in feet) times the room length (in feet).

ACH = airflow per hour/room volume =CFM X 60 minutes/cubic feet

It is important to be aware of how air contaminants can affect our health and to adopt corrective measures that will improve indoor air quality in our homes. Whole House HEPA/air cleaners and filtration systems are one alternative available to the homeowner to positively affect their homelife environment to reduce:

Particulates (air pollutants that have mass) like dust, dander, pollen, and cigarette smoke
Volatile Organic Compounds (V.O.C.s) which are gases from chemicals that are released into the air by various household materials and liquids such as housecleaning chemicals, detergents and building materials.
Bio-Burden is the amount of biological material in the air, living or dead. Dead material can cause allergic reactions, living material can cause allergic reactions some can cause disease.

What Are The Benefits of Radiant Heating?

2011-12-16T06:26:00.000-08:00

You maybe be considering radiant heat to install into your existing or your new home but don’t quite understand the advantages or the differences between heating applications? Well we would like to inform you of the benefits and the comparisons to other heating applications available.

Some of the benefits of radiant heat
Comfort: Let your bare feet soak up the warmth of soothing heat without the dust and noise associated with other heating sources. Enjoy evenly distributed heat throughout your home kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and basement.
Custom Designed: Whether for supplemental floor warming, or total space heating, every system is custom designed to fit all rooms independent of their shape or size. These systems will heat under any surface including marble, slate, carpet, hardwood and tile. The compact Control Box will hang on the wall of your garage or in a utility room. No heating vents or ducts will be seen, and no furnace or boiler is required.
Perfect for Remodeling and Additions: The simplicity of the low voltage heating element makes this system incredibly easy to install in your remodeling or room addition application. No floor buildup is necessary and no additional construction costs are incurred. The unique heating element can also be installed in between floor joists to heat an existing floor or room.

Safe: So safe, in fact that nails, water, and even touching the heating element during operation will have no harmful effect! You will have peace of mind while loved ones play as the systems are tested to UL standards and run on worry-free, low-voltage energy (8 to 32 V.).

Reliable: The solid-state heating systems are virtually maintenance free and the heating element is backed with a 25 year industry-leading warranty. With no moving parts and advanced self-diagnosing technology, there is no need for yearly maintenance or service checks.
Efficient: Radiant heat is the most efficient form of heat available. Significantly less operating time is required to maintain the desired warmth compared to furnaces and other radiant heat systems, keeping operational costs to a minimal. Low-voltage radiant heating systems run 98% to 100 % efficiency at any elevation as they evenly heat every area of the room.

Convenient: Our accurate thermostats allow you to easily adjust the floor or air temperature of your space heating or floor warming system. You also have the option of programming the exact time of day you want your system to operate. Simply relax, enjoy the comfort, and know that your system will work for decades to come.
So lets compare to other heating applications. Radiant Heat versus other applications:

Radiant Heat vs. Hydronics at a Glance
Both electric and hydronic radiant heat systems have certain advantages for specific applications. The following highlights the advantages low voltage radiant heat systems have:

Complexity of installation: A Boiler Room is required to run a hydronic radiant heat system. A 17"x12"x7" Control Unit is required to run low voltage radiant heat system.

Cost of subfloor requirements: Gypsum or concrete slab is required for installing a hydronic system. It is estimated that it costs approx. $4.00 or more per square foot to install a hydronic in-floor heating system than it does to install a in-floor heating system. The ZMesh heating element is installed directly under the floor surface without any floor buildup. The 12" wide ZMesh is rolled out over the area to be heated then nailed and/or stapled to the wood subfloor.

Evenness of heat distribution: Electric radiant heat warms your floors evenly because it uses 100% of the system's energy. A hydronic system, however, heats the floor less the further away the hot water gets from the boiler (see illustration below). Hydronic systems use only 65-85% of the system's energy. At higher elevations, electric radiant heat still is 100% efficient, where as hydronic systems are even less effective than at sea level.

Radiant Heat vs. Forced Air at a Glance
A room with floor Radiant In-Floor space heat will have a very uniform temperature from the ceiling to the floor. Heating a basement floor is the ideal application for our radiant heat systems. If you've lived in a house with forced air, you can crank the heat up, but the basement floor are still chilled. Installing a floor warming system will add comfort and warmth to your lifestyle.

A room heated with a forced air furnace will have cold floors and the warmest air at the ceiling. Although the air may be heated, the floors will be chilled and uncomfortable, especially for children playing on the floor.

What is the best Glue Trick ?

2011-12-16T05:41:00.000-08:00

Sometimes, you have a situation where you can't nail or screw easily because of vibration or movement, the fragility of the objects you are working with, aesthetic considerations, or tight working conditions that make clamping impossible.
The trick I have found to be helpful... THE FAMOUS ONE... is to use a combination of adhesives with different setting characteristics.
Say you want to attach a piece of 1" pine to a piece of 1/4" plywood and you can't screw through the plywood into the pine (the ideal scenario) because the plywood is finished and exposed. You want a strong bond, but at the same time you want to continue working and not have to wait 24 or more hours for the glue to dry.
Apply your primary adhesive (wood glue, in our example), leaving conspicuous gaps in it for a secondary adhesive. The primary adhesive is your powerhouse, intended to do the hard work over the long haul. Your secondary adhesive is the speedster... a fast setting glue that gives short term strength so you can finish your work.

Primary adhesives: Silicone and latex adhesive caulks,
construction adhesive, GOOP, assorted wood glues.

Secondary adhesives: Hot melt glue, two-part fast set epoxy,
tapes (masking tape, duct tape), mechanical fasteners

Notice that there are a few items in the "secondary adhesive" box that are not adhesives. In some circumstances certain adhesive tapes can act as a secondary adhesive. Masking tape, duct tape, metal tapes, and even fiberglass reinforced strapping tape can make excellent temporary fasteners while your primary adhesive dries!

Notice the thickness of your two adhesives when pairing them. Some combinations are better than others! Hot melt adhesive, for example, tends to set up thicker than wood glue, so they do not make a good combination. However, you can pair adhesive caulks or construction adhesive with hot melt glue successfully. Similarly, two-part epoxy sets up very thin, so it can be used in combination with wood glues. Secondary adhesives can work well alone in some situations. It is your job to decide how critical the repair is and choose the strength of the adhesive accordingly.

The FAMOUS GLUE TRICK can also be used when screwing items together.
In this case, the quick setting secondary adhesive holds the items together so that you can fasten them without needing octopus arms. This is especially useful where clamps are unsuitable due to space considerations. Also...

Be sure to predrill so that the screw passing through the first item doesn't push the second item away and break the glue bond.
Be careful that the screw you choose isn't too long or it may make an exit hole in the face of your beautiful cabinet!!

Goop Adhesive And Sealant Replaces Dog As Handyman's Best Friend!!

2011-12-16T03:34:00.000-08:00

Naming something GOOP is risky at best... because there are lots of goops out there... for example there's GOOP, the hand cleaning, shoe cleaning, clothes cleaning product. And, of course, these's always "generic" goop... what the heck is that goop on the wall? Or in the back of the refrigerator? Or in your kid's closet?

There is even GOOP FOR KIDS that can be made from ordinary household chemicals... sort of a gooshy clay with an attitude!

OKAY, Handyman... stop ranting and get to the point!
Well, the GOOP that we "handyfolk" find so attractive is the adhesive product made by Eclectic Products, Inc. It is marketed with names such as Plumber's GOOP®, Automotive GOOP®, Carpenter's GOOP®, Sportsman's GOOP®, etc. Eclectic even has a product to repair shoes called Shoe Goo®, which is a favorite of joggers trying to get a few more miles out of the worn soles on their running shoes.

I have used a few of these "different" products and my vote is that they all seem to be about the same, except for the colors. Though my experience has been corroborated by every handyperson and hardware store magnate that has ever opened a tube of this great stuff, there are some subtle differences brought to my attention by MR of Hampton, VA. He wrote to Eclectic Products and received this response:

Amazing GOOP® and Craft GOOP® contain a thinner formula for precise, detailed work.
Wood & Furniture GOOP® is a thicker, non-slump formula perfect for vertical and overhead applications.
Automotive GOOP®, Household GOOP® and Plumbing GOOP® are all the same formula.
Lawn & Garden GOOP®, Marine GOOP®, RV GOOP® and Sport and Outdoor GOOP® are all UV-resistant.
Shoe GOO® is a more rubbery formula allowing for greater flexibility.
The most amazing thing about GOOP is that it works under the most adverse conditions, it sticks to virtually everything and remains flexible!
I used GOOP to repair a broken dishwasher utensil holder that had split on the bottom. It has been 3+ years, and the GOOP is still holding (though it has discolored from the original clear to an unappetizing yellowish tone)! Thank the dishwasher's heat for that!

It will not stick to very dirty, wet or greasy surfaces. But then, what could, except for a fly's feet?

Because of it's tooling characteristics, which are poor, GOOP cannot be used in place of latex or silicone caulks where appearance is critical.

Handyman's Favorite uses for GOOP...

Loose laminate edging on wood shelving, cabinets, and kitchen counters...

If you have a substantial area of loose laminate on your kitchen countertop surface, you have a problem more major than GOOP can handle. However, if you have plastic laminate or wood edge banding that has released, GOOP is a great substitute for contact cement or wood glues. It adheres to the old glue without complaint and is more forgiving... if you slightly misalign the laminate, you have a few minutes to make corrections. If you have worked with contact cement, you know that once contact is made it's a done deal!
Apply the GOOP to either surface. Do not over apply or put it too close to the edges; this minimizes squeeze out. Press the laminate into place firmly. Then pull it back off for a few seconds to allow the GOOP solvent to partially evaporate. This increases GOOP's tackiness. Press back together and apply masking tape or low-tack painter's tape at 6 inch intervals to hold laminate in place as the GOOP dries. GOOP dries through solvent evaporation, so drying is slow between two nonporous surfaces. Full strength may not be achieved for days. However, enough holding strength is reached in 24 hours for careful tape removal.

Leaks in cracked faux marble sinks

If you have a cracked "faux marble" sink that is leaking either around the drain hole or through stress cracks, I have gotten much better results with GOOP than with silicone or latex caulk. Be sure the area to be sealed is dry and clean. To be sure, give the area to be sealed a wipe with alcohol to remove any residual soap scum or other nastiness. Apply the GOOP to the underside of the sink, not the "service side".
Apply GOOP generously all around the leaky area, working it into the cracks but keeping it built up at least 1/8" thick, extending the GOOP 1/2" on either side of the crack. Overnight drying is required before use. You can accelerate the drying with a hair dryer or heat gun, but do not overheat the GOOP or your repair may fail!

Leaks in plumbing drains...

Repairs on wooden items, such as doors, drawers, furniture, and cabinets...

White and yellow wood glues are almost worthless for repairing failed fittings in wood pieces that have already been glued once. The original gluing sealed the wood and, since wood glues depend on the porosity of the wood to assist in holding, the second attempt is an exercise in futility. It may hold for a short period of time but with very low strength. And the prep necessary to get a good second gluing is tedious at best and may require complete disassembly of the piece. Bring in the wrecking ball!

I don't recommend GOOP for fine cabinet work. It is not sandable... too rubbery... and does not absorb wood stain or paint so any squeeze out will be a cosmetic problem you'll need plastic surgery to correct! Also, like hot melt glues, GOOP is stronger in thicker applications so I would not use it instead of wood glues in new, tight-fitting joints.

I have found GOOP's greatest value is in concealed wood repairs such as behind separated cabinet face frames (especially where nailing is awkward or impossible), under or behind drawers to reinforce weak joints and for split or broken doors where the repair will not be seen. These include the "classic" stress splits that occur on the top and bottom pivot-side of bifolding doors. GOOP is also a top choice for reglueing the laminate separation that plagues flush (smooth-faced) and/or moulded doors... phoney-baloney six panel doors that are really formed from gluing preshaped hardboard panels to a wooden frame. See the article on door repair and adjustment for more details.

Chair spindle repair... You can do a quality chair spindle repair with GOOP that will outlast any wood glue repair. Put GOOP in the spindle hole and on the spindle. Press together and clamp to squeeze out excess GOOP. You should have some squeeze out... if not, then reopen joint and apply a little more GOOP. Wipe excess with a clean cloth or paper towel immediately, taking care not to smear the GOOP on adjacent wood. Let dry clamped for at least 24 hours.

Sloppy furniture joints... GOOP is also a standout in the repair of loose joints where strength is a priority and appearance less so. You know... the sloppy-fitting joints in old "workhorse" chairs like the beat up old beast you got from Uncle Harry that you just can't send to the glue factory! Wood glues require a decently tight fit, two-part epoxies are too brittle to stand the flexing stresses of a chair and caulks just aren't strong enough. GOOP fills the voids in this glue vacuum, packing the joint with firm adhesive strength.

REMOVING GOOP...
According to Abby from GOOP Central (1-800-693-GOOP or 1-800-767-GOOP), there are three recommended solvents for GOOP. They are acetone, toluene and naphtha. Acetone will do a good job on GOOP that has not fully set. Toluene is a more powerful solvent that will remove fully set GOOP. Naphtha, a solvent used in dry cleaning and a primary component of Zippo®, Ronson® and other lighter fluids (used in wick-type cigarette lighters), is recommended for removing GOOP on clothing.

It is important to follow all precautions on the solvent's label. Test a little of the solvent on the surface first... no sense getting surprised by some sort of bizarre chemical reaction, such as your cellular phone melting into the carpet!

FOR MORE INFORMATION...
Visit the Eclectic Products website for more info on GOOP.

Using Construction Adhesive... Constructively!

2011-12-16T02:37:00.000-08:00

Constructive uses for construction adhesives.
Construction adhesive refers to a broad range of similar products used to bond common materials used in the construction, renovation and finishing of homes. Of course, if you have shopped in a hardware store you know that some companies have adhesives they have named "construction adhesive".
In the context of this article, I am speaking of a class of adhesives that share certain properties. The basic characteristics of these products are:

Available in cans, squeeze tubes, and caulking tubes
Thick pasty consistency; applied with putty knife or notched trowel
Water or solvent based
Can fill gaps and imperfections in materials
Will adhere to a wide range of building materials
Tend to remain flexible after drying
Waterproof or water resistant
Usually dry within 24 hours

Choosing the correct construction adhesive product can be confusing, since there is lots of functional overlap among them. Fortunately, the manufacturers are pretty good about listing the uses of their products on the labels. Some of them are quite specific... "for ceramic tile only", for example. Others label their products for broader uses... the more generic and well known "construction adhesive", a generalist that can be used for wide range of adhesive tasks.

Some construction adhesives that work wonderfully on indoor wood will not stand up to the moisture and temperature changes of exterior work. You only get to choose once, so choose wisely.

There are two ways construction adhesive is applied.
Construction adhesives is applied either in beads or full coverage. Beads are lines of adhesive that are applied to a surface with the use of a caulking gun. This is the most economical use of construction adhesive and typically used for the gluing of large, flat materials to large flat surfaces. Some common uses for the bead method are in the installation of plastic tub surrounds over drywall or ceramic tile, wood paneling to any smooth wall, and attaching drywall to studs.

Full coverage is used where the material to be glued is small, such as floor tiles or ceramic tile, or where an absolutely solid surface is required, which includes virtually all flooring applications with the exception of carpet over padding and some types of vinyl flooring.

All full coverage adhesive jobs require the use of a notched trowel to apply the adhesive. You may be tempted to just slather the adhesive on with a putty knife... and you might get away with this for a small repair. But there are five sensible reasons for doing it right, though the product labels won't tell you why... they just say to do it their way or else! In a nutshell...

Saves adhesive... using a notched trowel can save you up to 50% on the adhesive used over a flat trowel or wide putty knife!
Consistent thickness of adhesive... Remember that most construction adhesives tend to stay flexible. Applying too thick an application can cause a soft spot in the floor, producing movement in the material. This may not be as critical with interlocking wood parquet flooring but it can be a disaster with ceramic tile!
Shortens drying time... those little grooves flatten when the material is pressed into the adhesive giving a thinner glue film. Thinner coats mean less drying time. An overly thick adhesive coat can take weeks to dry properly
Better adhesion... the "peaks" produced by troweling increase the chance that the material will grip firmly to the adhesive.
Less shrinkage... as the adhesive dries, it will shrink. This is not an issue with a thin coat. But if a thick layer is applied, the material you are gluing may noticeably move or settle! This is why you should never build up a depression in a floor or wall with adhesive alone... use a floor leveler or wallboard compound to flatten the surface before your gluing effort!

Be careful when choosing a construction adhesive!!
Certain applications and materials require special construction adhesives. Plastics are especially sensitive to poor adhesive choices! So when installing products such as tub surrounds and vinyl cove base, be sure to use an adhesive recommended by the manufacturer. Otherwise, you may find that the adhesive's solvent will actually migrate through the plastic, causing noticeable staining on the surface! This solvent "creep" can be a sneaky process... it could take weeks to occur, long after the job is done. Needless to say, you will not be a happy camper!

Note the drying times on the packaging!
Construction adhesives in many cases do not reach full strength for a week, so if you want the job to last give them plenty of drying time before applying full stress to the joint.
One of the more popular lines of construction adhesive is manufactured by the PL Company. Their line includes the old favorite Pl200 general purpose construction adhesive, as well as special formulations for plastics and foam and an exterior wood flooring adhesive purported to be as "strong as nails"! Another major player in this area is Macco, manufacturer of Liquid Nails, a full line of construction adhesives for virtually all materials, indoors and out.

Cyanoacrylate "Instant Dry" Adhesives

2011-12-15T08:30:00.000-08:00

Cyanoacrylate adhesives, a.k.a. "Super Glue" (Oh... and how do I get my stuck fingers apart?)
Cyanoacrylate adhesives came into public awareness in the sixties as "SuperGlue... one drop holds a ton!" How do they work? I have read a number of articles on the science behind the product, but the only important thing to know is this...
they "set" by contact with moisture on the objects to be glued. In an extremely dry environment, cyanoacrylate will not set. However, as soon as the product comes into contact with a moist object, the chemical reaction begins and the glue solidifies.

Cyanoacrylate is designed to bond nonporous materials such as plastic, metal, ceramics and glass.

Cyanoacrylate will not stick to some plastics, and is not an acceptable wood glue by any stretch of the imagination! Cyanoacrylate will also bond skin... not a good thing if you accidentally stick yourself to a doorknob or toilet seat. The medical community has used cyanoacrylate in place of sutures in some surgical applications, but this is a special formulation. Over-the-counter cyanoacrylate glue should not be used on the human body. It contains methyl alcohol, a deadly poison used to "denature" ethyl alcohol.

Setting times vary depending on the thickness of the application and the amount of moisture present. It is fairly stiff and brittle when dry, so it is not recommended for use where joint movement is anticipated or desired. Flexible adhesives such as caulks or GOOP are a better choice.

Oh... your stuck fingers?

You can dissolve cyanoacrylate with acetone or acetone-containing nail polish remover. If you don't have any acetone available, just soak you hand in warm soapy water and gently work the skin back and forth to break the glue bond. If you try to pull the skin straight apart, you will injure yourself!

To keep it from hardening in the tube... put it on ice!

One common complaint with cyanoacrylate is that it sometimes hardens in the tube. The reason is simple... if a tube is left open for too long, the adhesive within becomes activated by the moisture in the air. One of our readers, DO, offered this suggestion...

"If you keep SuperGlue in the freezer it never dries and the cap is easy to remove… plus the spout never gets clogged with dry glue! It should be stored in an upright position to work."

Another reader OG added,

"I've found that storing them upside down in the freezer keeps the air away from the spout and allows for quick dispensing of the liquid."

Makes sense to me!

Contact Adhesive Is Unlike Any Other Glue

2011-12-14T08:08:00.000-08:00

Contact adhesive... a glue with a mission
Contact adhesive... also fondly known as "contact cement"... is a special adhesive for a special purpose. When spread on a surface, it dries by the quick evaporation of a flammable solvent. Like other adhesives, it sticks things together. But it has a unique characteristic no other adhesive shares. For a period of time after it appears to be completely dry
and no longer tacky, it will still stick to itself with abandon! This makes it an excellent adhesive for gluing together materials that are nonporous.
In your home, the most common use of contact adhesive are plastic laminate countertops in kitchens and bathrooms. Envision the perplexing problem solved by this product. You have two very wide pieces of material and both have limited porosity... particle board (the standard countertop substrate) and plastic laminate. Virtually every other adhesive would fail because the glue would never dry... the moisture or solvent could not escape from between them. Or drying would take so long that special clamps would be needed to keep the materials in contact for the lengthy drying period. Since the contact adhesive is already dry before assembly, this problem is... well... not a problem!

Once the contact adhesive is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry, the actual assembly of the two parts takes but a few minutes, and the countertop is useable immediately! Of course, there is no room for error with contact adhesive. Once it sticks, it is stuck for good! Disassembling items glued with contact adhesive usually requires damaging one or both of them. And does it stick fast... momentary contact is all that is needed for adhesion, making positioning and planning vitally important for success!

Contact adhesive can be finicky when not used correctly.

Most problems with contact adhesive failure are caused by:

1) not allowing the adhesive to dry fully before assembly
2) waiting too long before assembly
3) applying too thick a coating of adhesive
4) not applying enough adhesive.

When used on a porous or semi-porous material such as wood or plywood, a first "priming" coat of contact adhesive may be needed to preseal the material. Otherwise, some areas may absorb too much adhesive to form a strong bond. This prime coat is followed by a second gluing coat. Following the label directions concerning drying times, application thickness, and using the proper tools will keep you on the right track!

Contact adhesive is available in the traditional solvent-based formula and a newer water-based formula. Solvent-based contact adhesive dries in under 15 minutes but releases a highly flammable solvent into the air. Precautions must be taken to assure adequate ventilation to prevent accidental ignition of the fumes. Read the label for all precautions! Also, the article Level-Headed Low Down On Loose Laminates And Crappy Countertops has more on this topic.

DAP manufactures both solvent-based and water-based contact adhesives, and their products are widely available in hardware and home stores.

How to caulk or recaulk a bathtub or shower enclosure?

2011-12-14T06:36:00.000-08:00

Don't ignore loose caulk!
In a nutshell, caulk is used in a tub or shower enclosure to keep water from creeping up, under or around the tiles at joints between tile and the tub or shower pan, or on joints where walls meet. Leaky caulk is not to be ignored! I have often seen tiled bathrooms where the two or three bottom rows of tiles
were loosened by water which crept up under the tiles from the bottom! The repair can be time-consuming and expensive. And you might not be able to use the enclosure again for a week or more while things "dry out"!
Caulk can be used as a glue and a sealant
Caulk works because it is both a strong glue and a flexible sealant, characteristics necessary to seal a joint between dissimilar materials or a joint that has movement. In the damp environment of a tub or shower, the right caulk keeps the water where it belongs and protects your home!
Before you read this article...
Please note that I may use the terms "water-based", "latex", "PVA" or "acrylic latex" somewhat loosely and even interchangeably. Undried water-based caulks can be cleaned from hands and surfaces with soap and water. There are no oil-based caulks that are acceptable for interior bathroom use. Silicone caulks cannot be cleaned up with anything, so care must be taken to keep them off of your hands and any absorbent surface you don't want permanently stained.)

Good online sources for tile of all types are Tile Austin TX and Glass Tiles!

The Winning Strategy... remove the old caulk, clean the surface meticulously and THEN apply the new caulk.

The best way to keep your caulk in tip top shape is to apply it properly in the first place. So, the first step in replacing caulk is getting all the old caulk off. Though you can do a patch job that will last for a brief period of time, a complete job gives the long lasting results.

Pre-clean the work area...

This is a vital step to a successful job. By pre-cleaning the area with a good combination bathroom surface cleaner / soap scum remover before removing the caulk, you will introduce less moisture around the tiles than you would if you cleaned afterwards. After the old caulk is off, the final cleaning will be done with alcohol... more on this later.

Remove the old caulk...

Try to determine the kind of caulk currently installed. It will help you to plan the removal! Get a sharp knife and try to cut it. If it is very rubbery and somewhat soft, it is most likely a pure silicone caulk. If it seems to be very hard, then it is probably a water-based latex or PVA caulks, such as Polyseamseal, Phenoseal, or one of the hardware store brands.

Silicone caulk can be removed with a sharp, single-edged razor in a razor blade holder.
Be very careful to keep the razor angled low so that you don't scratch the tub or shower pan, especially if it is a plastic or fiberglass. A utility knife can also be used to cut the caulk from between the tiles and the tub if the razor can't quite get it out, especially in deeper pockets and corners! Sometimes, if you have a porcelain tub, little black lines will appear on the porcelain as you scrape off the caulk, even though you know you didn't scratch the surface. These marks usually come off with the alcohol wipe. If they don't, use a little scouring powder or Soft Scrub... with a minimum of water.

A heat gun can be used to soften hardened water-based caulk.
Many latex or other water-based caulks are flexible, but still set very hard! Hot air will soften caulk and ease removal. (Sorry, bringing your spouse into the shower will not work.) Set the heat gun at a low temperature (under 300 degrees F, or your gun's lowest setting), to protect the surfaces and your hands. Keep the heat gun moving to prevent overheating of any area... you want to heat and soften the caulk, not cremate it! Work your way around the enclosure, softening the caulk first and then using your tool to remove it. This strategy is unnecessary for silicone caulks because they are softer and easier to remove.

Once the caulk is scraped off, the area should be thoroughly cleaned.
Wipe the joint down with denatured alcohol and allow it to dry for a few minutes. The alcohol does a good job of cleaning off any remaining soap scum, grease, or other nasties and yucks that may have crept under loose caulk or you may have missed during precleaning. Use a vacuum to suck out any bits of pieces of caulk that may be lurking under the edge of the tile.

Unfortunately, the alcohol will not kill mildew.
If the area was heavily mildewed, you may want to spray it with a concentrated mildew killer after the alcohol wipe. The alcohol cuts the soap scum better than most anything, and gives the mildew killer a fighting chance to knock out any residual mildew. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe off any residue with a sponge, rinsing frequently in hot, clear water (no soap). Then, you can use your heat gun to blow dry the area to be caulked if you are in a hurry, or just wait overnight and proceed tomorrow!

It is always a judgment call whether or not to wait overnight or longer before recaulking the enclosure.
If you are replacing the caulk because of leakage, or if it was obviously falling off, you would be wise to put a small fan or heater in the enclosure and let it dry out at least overnight.

Sometimes, the caulk is not leaking but is only discolored from mildew. If this is the case, you can recaulk immediately as long as you are using a water-based caulk because it will adhere to a slightly moist surface.

If you are using silicone caulk, then there is no debate... the enclosure must be dry as a bone or the caulk will fail! (More on choosing caulks below.)

If you have a recurring mildew problem... reappearance in a few months or less... let the enclosure dry more thoroughly next time you caulk, as long as a week in some cases.

Choosing a caulk... Acrylic latex vs. PVA (polyvinyl acetate) vs. 100% Silicone vs. Siliconized Acrylic Latex

If you are working with a tiled enclosure and a ceramic tub, you can use any bathroom-type, mildew-resistant caulk. I prefer PVA and acrylic latex caulks because they seem to be more mildew resistant, are long-lasting and can be more thoroughly removed from bathroom surfaces. Cleanup is also easier because they can be washed off with soap and water. However, they dry somewhat harder than silicone caulk.

The exception is if you have (1) a fiberglass tub with ceramic tile walls, (2) a completely fiberglass sectional enclosure or (3) one of those three or five-piece tub surrounds with caulked joints. Because it is relatively soft, 100% silicone caulk is the recommendation of many fiberglass enclosure manufacturers. It is easy to work with, has good smoothing qualities and can be removed, when necessary, without cutting into the enclosure.

The biggest downside to EVER using silicone caulk is how difficult it is to completely remove from surfaces when cured! Since nothing sticks to cured silicone caulk (including itself) any residue left behind will be a point of possible leakage or failure in the new caulk. Also, silicone caulk leaves a slimy residue on your hands that will not wash off with anything. I've tried every solvent, soap, and hand cleaner and none work! Even the GE Silicon web site is silent on this pervasive problem! The only cure for the silicone "greasies" is that tried and true cure of many of life's torments... time!

Polyseamseal Tub and Tile Adhesive Caulk is one of the more mildew-proof PVA caulks available. I was skeptical when the product first became available so I first tried the product in my own home. The stuff deserves high praise. It does indeed stay mildew-free longer than any product I have ever used, and under the most adverse conditions... my kids' bathroom!! I have used it successfully in all types of enclosures, though you will have to use a heat gun to remove it in a fiberglass enclosure, as mentioned earlier.

Siliconized caulks are a hybrid that supposedly have the adhesive qualities of latex caulk but are a little softer and more flexible. I just don't see a clear advantage to them, advertising notwithstanding. Since silicone is a product designed so things don't stick to it, how can mixing silicone and latex improve the product, other than give the manufacturer a new advertising angle?

Just be sure the caulk you choose is a bathroom tub and tile caulk with mildew resistance.

Important: Do not use EXTERIOR CAULKS in the tub or shower. Though you might think they would be even better than interior ones, you couldn't be more wrong.
They are designed for different purposes and to stand up under different environmental conditions. Only use caulks designed for bathrooms in bathrooms!!

Fill the tub with water before caulking? Maybe...

Many plumbers feel that a tub should be filled with water prior to caulking. The principle is that the weight of the water will settle tub slightly downward or, in the case of plastic enclosures, expand it slightly outward. Thus, the caulk seal will last longer because it will never be stretched when you enter the tub... it will be "pre-compressed".

It this true? Properly installed, quality tub and shower enclosures will normally not move enough to exceed the expansion (and adhesion) of the caulk.

What to do? If you don't mind leaning over a tub full of water while you caulk the back wall, there's no harm and it could be helpful. I have probably recaulked 200 tubs over 30 years and only had a couple of callbacks regarding caulk failure that I could attribute to tub movement. And I never fill them with water. However, I can't speak to your own tub so take this with a grain of salt.

So, as with most things home repair, it is left up to you. As I said, this is the preferred technique of many professional caulkers, so I won't discourage you if this is your preference. You could have one of those unstable tubs... who knows?

Just don't drop the caulking tube in the tub!

Applying the new caulk...

This is the part of the project that separates the mice from the rats. It's a sad truth that, no matter what pains you go through to prep the enclosure, carefully pick the proper caulk, terminate the mildew... all anyone is going to notice is your artistic application of the caulk!!

Having a caulk job look professional is a tall order, mostly because there are few professionals at caulking. In new tile installations, joints that should be caulked are grouted, only because it is a pain to leave the horizontal and vertical seams grout-free for caulking.

Caulking is more of an art than a craft, a mixture of finesse and experience. And every job turns out a little different... some better than others. Even the type and texture of the tile can affect the quality of the job. And using white caulk with colored grout is about as frustrating as you can get!

However, don't loose heart! I can give you a few guidelines that may help you do the best possible job:

If you don't plan on making caulking a profession, you don't need to use a caulking gun to do your enclosure. The small, plastic tubes of caulk are usually adequate to do an entire enclosure vertical and horizontal seams, along the shower doors, and along the outside floor and walls, if necessary! Though I have become quite skilled with the guns, the fact is that the squeeze tubes are more easily controlled by both novice and pro alike!! I use the gun myself because I use so much caulk that the large capacity gun cartridges are more economical! But there is a tendency for the guns to "overshoot" the caulk, leaving big gobs when you only wanted a thin line!
Don't cut too large an opening in the end of the tube... the larger the opening, the more likely you are to overcaulk the joint. The trick to neat caulking lies in not applying too much caulk to the joint. When you smooth the joint, any excess caulk tends to slop all over the place. It's not the end of the world, just makes getting a neat job all the more difficult. You can always add a little more caulk in any spots that need a touch more.

Forget about the ice cubes and special "smoothing" devices that look like gynecological instruments! Raise up your hands and look at them... you are seeing ten custom made tools for smoothing caulk! The technique I use is simple:

For latex caulk, have a small bucket with a damp sponge nearby. The sponge is to wipe off your fingers as they accumulate caulk, and also to keep your finger "tools" moistened so they slide on the caulk without sticking to it.
For pure silicone caulk, have a roll of paper towels handy as well as a damp sponge. With the silicone, the towels are to wipe off any caulk that may get on your hands (remember, the silicone is not water-washable), and the sponge is to moisten your clean fingers for smoothing, as with the latex caulk.
Do both vertical seams in a tiled enclosure first, then the back wall, then both sides. The outside of the enclosure is done last. On a sectional fiberglass enclosure, the pattern is the same.
Apply a bead, no more than 1/2" inch wide right (the less caulk, the less mess) into one of the joints. Remember... not too thick... you are going to have to get the feel of this. Use a finger, moisten it with the damp sponge, and glide it along the joint, pressing the caulk evenly into the joint . If you have applied the right amount of caulk, the gap between the end of your finger and the joint will smooth the caulk to a neat, even appearance.
If you overapplied the caulk, this is where things get messy! You will have to try to remove the overage by using your finger and the sponge to wipe it off. If you really overdid it, you may want to completely wipe the caulk out of the joint and try again, rather than fudge the job! Needless to say, the latex will clean up better than the silicone... another good reason to not overapply the caulk.
As you finish a section, if there are any spots that seem to have too little caulk, add a little and smooth it in with a finger. Work quickly, because you only have a couple of minutes before the caulk begins to "skin" over!!
Plan on doing the whole job at once. Take the phone off the hook, and put the dog outside. If you stop mid-job, the start-stop seam may not adhere well... a entry point for water and mildew growth!
Let the caulk dry at least overnight and, for God's sake, take a shower!!

What about really large gaps?
If the tub was originally installed out of level, the tile installer sometimes leaves too much of a gap above the tub. It should be no more than 1/4" but I've seen gaps as large as 3/4". To caulk a gap this wide you have two choices.

Fill the gap in multiple steps, allowing the caulk to dry overnight till you have built it up to fully seal the crack. The final coat can be the "decorative" coat, which is thin and can be smoothed to fairly even finish. If you try to do it in one coat, you will invariably get a sloppy, smeary job.
Put "backer" material into the hole and then coat it with caulk. There is a foam backer material available in various widths in many hardware stores. There is also an older product called "oakum" that is a waxed rope used for similar purposes. Both of these materials were designed to fill gaps under exterior siding, but they will work well... in some circumstances... in tubs enclosures also.

The Household Caulk used as an Adhesive

2011-12-14T06:22:00.000-08:00

Caulks can be used as glues... sometimes
Household caulks, including silicone, acrylic latex and polyurethane, definitely qualify as waterproof glues. They are very flexible, which makes them good for holding materials that may experience limited movement or bending... the same quality that makes them excellent for sealing joints and seams in showers, around windows, etc.

Be careful not to spread the caulk too thinly. Caulks are not designed to be used in very thin applications like wood glues, making them a poor choice for high quality woodworking.

Don't assume all caulks have good adhesive properties...
Some caulks are designed for just caulking and nothing else. Always read the label to be sure! If the product label does not say "adhesive caulk", it probably isn't!
Four of the most popular brands of adhesive caulks are DAP, Polyseamseal, Phenoseal, and GE Silicone.

With all those other great glues, why should I bother having wood glue in my workshop?

2011-12-14T06:11:00.000-08:00

Good question! You would think that with the chemical marvels described above a water-based wood glue would have gone the way of the dinosaur. You couldn't be more wrong. In its own element... that favorite of termites cellulosis dinnerosis (a.k.a. wood)... good ol' wood glue... is as strong or stronger than those other fancy-schmancy adhesives.
Why? A number of reasons...
Wood glue is designed to set thin so there are no gaps between wooden parts.
They set slowly or quickly, depending on the glue chosen and your needs.
They are available in interior, water resistant or waterproof varieties.
There are three basic types of wood glues to be concerned with. There are of course variations on these and new glue products and formulations are popping up like mushrooms. So experiment if you like, but these three are recognized as the premier woodworking glues.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA's are the traditional wood glues, and some of the most common adhesives. They are also called "aliphatic resins". They provide a strong wood-to-wood bond but will not adhere strongly or consistently to nonporous materials, such as metal or plastics. It is important to use clamps to hold the wood parts firmly while the glue is drying. Any movement after the initial "set", usually occurring in a few minutes, will cause breaks in the glue bond that will make it much weaker.

PVA's do not stick well to other glues, so they are of little value in furniture repair where old glue failure is the culprit... loose chair spindles immediately come to mind. Though the "pros" tell you to remove the old glue to give the new glue a chance to absorb into the wood, in reality it is often difficult or impossible to remove the old glue sufficiently to make a lasting repair unless the entire piece is disassembled. Instead, use a solvent-based adhesive, such as GOOP (see article on GOOP for more info).

Though widely used by woodworkers, PVA's are not really suitable as a primary adhesive or for edge gluing... attaching boards together to make wide surfaces such as tabletops or other furniture. They are "plastic", so without other supporting fasteners such as screws or nails, metal reinforcements or dowels, the glued joints will eventually break apart. For pro-quality wood gluing where extra fasteners might get in the way, read the sections in this chapter on polyurethane glue and hide glues.

One of the more well known PVA adhesives... for all parents and anyone who was ever a kid... is Elmer's White Glue... effective on paper but not very strong on wood. Yellow wood glues offer more strength and greater water resistance. Note that PVA glues are not completely waterproof, however.

Some examples of PVA glues are Titebond Original Wood Glue and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue.

Water-resistant PVA glues have all the benefits of regular PVA glue but have increased tolerance to moisture and extra mildew resistance. Because of these additional benefits, I use them for all applications PVA glues are suitable for rather than keeping both standard and water-resistant PVA in my larder.

Titebond II and Elmer's Carpenter's Exterior Wood Glue are two widely available brands of water-resistant exterior glues.

Polyurethane glue

Polyurethane glue is one of the best waterproof glues available, but until recently was not available outside professional circles. It is a one-part adhesive that will adhere to wood, metals, stone, ceramics and many plastics.

Polyurethane glue does not dry like PVA glues, but instead chemically reacts with moisture in the objects being glued or even in the air. This reaction causes an expansion of the glue, filling all voids and giving an exceptionally solid glue joint. If the material is dry, spraying a light mist onto it before gluing accelerates the curing process.

In many ways, polyurethane may be the best wood glue. It both accepts wood stains and sands well in thin coatings, neither of which are true for PVA wood glues. Most other adhesives act as a sealer on the wood surface. And removing these other adhesives can be difficult because they dry to a "gummy" texture that resists removal from the wood by sanding... the second strong reason to consider trying polyurethane glue for your next project.

Polyurethane glue has a longer setting time than PVA glues, so you have more time to adjust misaligned clamps and other errors before you reach the gluing world's version of the "point of no return".
Nothing is perfect and polyurethane glue is no exception.

Remember poly glue's expansion factor I mentioned a few paragraphs back, HMM? I wasn't exaggerating... overgenerous application of polyurethane glue can cause a messy situation as it emerges like the Blob from your joint!

And you can't just wipe it off with a sponge like PVA wood glue. Polyurethane glue is not water soluble, so always have your trusty can of denatured alcohol handy for the cleanup of your work piece and your sloppy hands! Use of protective gloves is not a bad idea if you are doing a large job. Thin latex gloves... like your beloved dentist uses to protect herself from the blight of your yucky cavities... are far and away the best gloves for this task because you still have some dexterity and "touch".

One other annoying characteristic of polyurethane glues is their proclivity to harden in the container.

This is associated with moist air becoming trapped in the container, beginning the setting process. This is not as much of a problem for small-time users but is an expensive nuisance for quantity buyers. Suggested remedies are pouring a small quantity of mineral spirits in the container when stored for long periods. This keeps the glue young and supple... just don't forget to pour the solvent off before using the glue!

Once dry, this stuff will not come off anything easily.

Most solvents are ineffective on dry polyurethane glue, leaving mechanical removal by either cutting or sanding as your only recourse. On hands or other unfortunate body parts, it will wear off eventually (as your epidermis sloughs off yesterday's cells) or you can accelerate the shedding process with an abrasive soap such as Lava. Or just leave it on your body as a badge of courage... "Me handyman, ugh!"

(Note: I know my editor has breathed a sigh of relief that I chose "dentist" as an example of latex glove use. Actually, I have always thought of dentistry as very similar to construction and "handymanship" in techniques, materials and goals... do it right the first time, use the best materials available, and make lots of money. OK... two out of three ain't bad!)

Gorilla Glue, Probond Polyurethane Glue, and PL Premium Wood Glue are three examples of polyurethane glues.

Hide glue

Hide glue is not a type of glue that is used where no one can see it (peek-a-boo, I glue you)... really! It is called "hide" glue because it is made from animal products. If you have ever heard the jokes (though not funny to everyone) about the failed race horse going to the "Glue Factory", this is the glue recommended by more jockeys (and cabinetmakers) than any other!

Hide glues are the "glue of glues" for cabinetmaking and furniture for a few good reasons. The glue can be formulated to have varying degrees of initial tack... the stickiness that keeps the glued parts in place. Some types of furniture assembly, for example, need a longer setting time so assembly can be completed before the first joint dries. Chairs are a good example of this. In other cases, such as the installation of reinforcing cleats under tables or edge gluing, a quicker set may be preferable.

Secondly, hide glue does not "creep". Wood pieces glued with hide glue stay put! And is it long lasting? Virtually all antique furniture is held together with hide glue. In fact, the use of hide glue goes back thousands of years to ancient Egypt!

Hide glue, unlike most other adhesives, can be reactivated with moisture. This is a mixed blessing. For furniture restoration purposes, it is a treat to be able to steam off the old glue... try that with most other adhesives and you will have little success. This is especially important for the restoration of wooden musical instruments such as pianos and guitars. Of course, this sensitivity to moisture can also cause furniture stored in damp locations to begin to fall apart... though certain formulations of hide glue and the finish of the furniture can slow or stop this sort of glue failure.

You will probably not find a true hide glue in your local hardware emporium. In our 'hurry up and get it done" society, hide glue has lost favor because it is not an easy product to use. It requires heating and mixing to get the right consistency and tackiness for the job. Consequently, the other adhesives mentioned earlier have displaced hide glue in most do-it-yourself applications.

There is a hide glue for the unwashed masses, manufactured by Franklin International, called Titebond® Liquid Hide Glue. Unlike the traditional hide glues, this is a one-step product... squeeze it out and use it! It shares many of the characteristics of regular hide glue... relatively long setting time, non-creeping grip, and can be loosened with moisture for furniture repair. I have used it myself and found it to be an excellent wood glue, with one problem... once opened, it does not have a long shelf life.

Auto Body Filler Is For More Than Cars

2011-12-14T05:30:00.000-08:00

A winner for a variety of wood gluing and other repairs!
Auto body filler is an excellent wood filler and adhesive. It sets up quickly, has great adhesive properties. Unlike many softer fillers, it not only fills voids but can be cut and routed as cleanly as the original wood.
Auto body filler is a time-saver too! It can be applied, sanded and painted within an hour...
a great time saver (and also saves my customer's the expense of a second visit). It is also weatherproof, waterproof and insect-proof.

Auto body filler sets gradually, proceeding through various stages of firmness, to a final extremely hard state. It is also temperature dependent and sets much faster in warm weather than in cool. If you are really impatient, setting time can be decreased by careful use of a hair dryer or heat gun. But don't overdo it or you may burn the adhesive!!

This gradual-setting characteristic requires vigilance... especially when your filler sets harder than the material you are filling. For instance, say you filled a hole in a piece of white pine and let the auto body filler fully set. When you tried to sand it, you would wear down the pine around the auto body filler patch and never obtain a flat surface. So you must stick with the job and check the hardness of the filler every couple of minutes, sanding smooth before full hardness is reached.

Ditto for shaped repairs. auto body filler works well with a planer or a knife while in intermediate stages of hardness, but is almost uncuttable with hand tools once fully set. However, if you are planning to work it with power tools, such as a drill, power saw, or router, you can let the patch set to full hardness without fear!

Because auto body filler sticks well to itself, you can build up your patches, filling a hole- level or slightly below- and then adding a "skim coat" to fill any imperfections from the first coat. If you prefer, you can also use other wood or wall patching materials with auto body filler to do that oh-so-critical final smoothing of the surface. Though there are thinner products for the "final coat" in fine automotive repairs, I haven't found these necessary for general household repairs.

When doing large repairs or deep fills, you can and should use pieces of wood to take up some space so you don't have to use as much filler. Putting a few screws into the material within the hole prior to filling will also add strength to the repair and keep the filler in place. The screw heads should be at least 1/8" beneath the projected "level" surface of the auto body filler repair.
Bondoï, the original auto body filler, is manufactured by Bondo/Mar-Hyde Corporation. For your car repair buffs, Bondo has developed a one-part filler that is activated by ultraviolet light... either from the sun or better from a special lamp! I would advise against use of the "natural" method for those of you in the land of the midnight sun... especially during those loooong nights! Get the lamp, already!

Minwax produces a product known as High Performance Wood Filler. It is for all intents and purposes identical to auto body filler except that the color is a light brown wood tone. It comes in smaller packages than auto body filler and is quite a bit more expensive. I use this product for everyday repairs because of the conveniently sized can, but for the larger fill jobs I use auto body filler . It's always nice to save money, don't you think?

Epoxy Adhesives For Strength and Durability

2011-12-14T05:21:00.000-08:00

What's the scoop on epoxy? Consumer epoxy adhesives are two-part plastic resin glues. The two parts... resin and hardener... chemically react when mixed and produce a strong adhesive bond to virtually any clean surface. They generally have a long shelf life since they don't set in the tube (unless you leave the cap off).
There are also one-part epoxies that are designed for professional use. Heat instead of a chemical hardener is used to start the reaction that sets the epoxy.
Some epoxies not only produce a strong bond but also set quickly...some in as little as five minutes! However, setting time is very dependent on temperature. A "5 Minute" epoxy can become an hour epoxy below 60 degrees F... so read that label!

Epoxies set hard and will fill gaps, adding strength and stiffness to the materials glued. This is great for some materials, but not so good for others. Non-rigid materials such as fabrics and flexible plastics are better glued with GOOP (see next article) caulks and PVC adhesives. Though epoxies are recommended for wood by their manufacturers, wood glues are in my opinion a better selection unless quick setting is absolutely necessary. Epoxy makes a great secondary adhesive on most materials, including wood. For more on primary and secondary adhesives see the Famous Glue Trick at the end of this article!

Because epoxies set with adhesive strength and rigidity, thick formulations are employed as wood and metal fillers for use under the most severe circumstances. For example, epoxies are used to set bolts in concrete floors to stabilize heavy vibrating machinery and for some types of plumbing repairs. Various metal additives are used in some epoxies for material compatibility... for example steel, aluminum, bronze and titanium are added for repairs to those metals. This is necessary because different metals can react with each other over time, damaging the repair.

Other epoxy fillers are also used to restore rotten wood in homes and other wooden structures. Conserv Epoxy manufactures specialty epoxies that not only repair rot but actually restore the strength to rotted wood. Their sturdy formulations have saved homeowners thousands of dollars in renovation projects where structural beams and supports have been attacked by rot, carpenter ants and termites!

Other manufacturers of widely-available consumer epoxies are Devcon and the Protective Coating Company adhesives.

Duct Tape... Uses and Abuses

2011-12-14T05:11:00.000-08:00

I was, at one point in my career, a duct tape addict. I would lash together lumber, repair hammers, fix my trusty wooden tool box... ad infinitum. Then, in my travels through thousands of homes, I came to see the weakness in duct tape as some repairs done with it days, weeks or months before began to fail. The weakness in duct tape's armor is due to three factors... poor adhesive quality, heat and ultraviolet light.

The adhesive used on duct tape is tenacious. If you've ever torn off a piece and had it touch itself, you know the meaning of sticky! Straight to the garbage can for that strip, yessirree. But as strong as this adhesive is, it is not really permanent like a setting-type adhesive. And some "bargain basement" duct tapes are not worthy enough to wrap fish!

Heat can soften duct tape adhesive, making it lose strength. If there is weight or stress on the repair, this softening can cause the tape to slip and the joint or attachment to fail. This can be prevented by use of a secondary fastener such as a clamp or strap. A classic example of this faux pas happened to a customer of mine a number of years ago...

A repair person was called in to troubleshoot and repair a dryer vent line which no longer blew to the outside. All visible connections seemed to be OK, so he had to cut the wall open behind the dryer to assess the situation. What he found was a failed junction between two pieces of plastic duct hose connected together at eye level by a 12" long piece of 4" round aluminum ducting with duct tape alone as the fastener!

I suppose he thought that the last guy just didn't use enough tape, so he wrapped the connection in what appeared to be half a roll of duct tape... with no other fasteners... and closed the wall back up. It took about six months for the repair to fail. I'm amazed it lasted that long! The heat from the clothes dryer caused the connections to separate as the tape softened, until the two sections of pipe totally separated from each other within the newly repaired and painted wall. Darn..

The repair guy, of course, has never been heard from again.

I don't have the trust in duct tape I once had. So as a rule, unless I am looking for a temporary repair, I always find a way to supplement the strength and air-sealing properties of duct tape with a more permanent fastener!

Can I use duct tape outside?

Duct tape for the most part is not meant for exterior repairs unless it is specifically labeled UV-resistant. The problem is sunlight, which causes the plastic that ties the tape's threads and adhesive together becomes a dust-like skeleton over time. (Hat tip to Randy of Feather River Canyon News, who called it "a powder-coated set of threads with dried up adhesive." ) Even so, these tapes are not "forever" so I would consider other fastening methods if you are looking for permanence in areas exposed to sunlight.

For example, Scotch® has a variety of special-duty "All Weather" duct tapes. They claim triple the life of standard duct tape, which I don't doubt and is a great improvement... but I would still consider it a short-term or emergency repair solution in exterior, sunny areas.

Using Hot Melt Adhesive

2011-12-14T03:07:00.000-08:00

Hot melt adhesive... when to use it and when not
I have grown fond of hot melt adhesive. Fast setting is its most noble attribute. However, it is not an especially strong adhesive and is intended to be applied somewhat thickly. This makes it generally unsuitable for quality finish woodworking.
I have seen inexpensive cabinets literally fall apart because they were assembled with hot melt.
But this is not to take away from its versatility and usability. It is employed extensively in craft making, artificial flower arranging, in manufacturing to seal cardboard boxes and in some product assembly. Hot melt glues are available in high and low temperature formulations.

It is great when used as a secondary adhesive, to hold items together for screwing or primary gluing (see the Famous Glue Trick).

There are many types of hot melt adhesives manufactured for professional and industrial use that far exceed the strength and durability of the typical hardware/craft store products. The seaming tape that carpet installers use is glued with a special hot melt adhesive and, as I'm sure you know, carpet seams are about as permanent as anything in this life!

Adhesive Technologies, SDA/Craft Technologies, H.B. Fuller and 3M are all major manufacturers of hot melt glues, and their products are widely available in hardware, home and craft stores.

Hot glue tips and tricks...
Hot glue guns are simple to use. Plug the gun in, allow it time to heat up, and then squeeze the trigger to apply the adhesive. Melted glue very hot and will burn the skin instantly, so be careful! Press the parts to be glued together and hold till set, literally seconds for thin applications... a few more seconds for thicker applications.

Sometimes the glue stick will not feed properly and may need a push. Feeding too much glue at once will cause the gun's mechanism to slip against the stick till more of the glue stick melts. Also, once a stick is almost used up the gun may need a second stick to push the first through.

Different hot melt glues have different setting times, and this will determine its proper uses.

Some hot melt glues dry almost instantly and are best for situations where repositioning of the parts is unlikely and speed is important, such as in many craft projects. On the other hand, slower hardening glues are better when it may take a little time to position the parts, such as when installing cleats for drywall repairs. In my own work, the only hot melt adhesive I used was a slow-setting type. I realized that each time I changed the glue, I had to waste whatever was remaining of the stick I started. Waste not, want not!

Most importantly, hot melt glue is designed to be applied thickly and seems to stick best when it is not squeezed too thin. That means it can't be used where the tolerances are tight, such as in fine woodworking. No problem, since there are stronger, better glues designed for woodworking, such as polyurethane glue or good old wood glue, that allow the repositioning time needed to apply clamps.

The Sticky Issue of Adhesives, Glues and Tapes

2011-12-14T02:16:00.000-08:00

Give me a good glue and I'll rule the world!

Well, maybe I'm exaggerating just a little bit, but without modern adhesives, much of what we take for granted today would not stay together. Special glues hold our cars, our countertops, our furniture and our computers together.
Adhesives allow thin things made of different materials to be bonded together in ways that are impossible with mechanical fasteners.

Thin materials most of all demand creative fastening... and glues are often the best choice.

The words "glue" and "adhesive" are oft used interchangeably. To set the technical record straight (even though I still reserve the "creative license" to call an adhesive a glue and vice versa), glue is defined as:
"... a hard, brittle gelatin made by boiling animal skins, bones, hoofs, etc. to a jelly: when heated in water, it forms a sticky viscous liquid used to stick things together" Webster's New Universal Unabridged Dictionary

Just makes you want to dance with the chickens, doesn't it? On the other hand, "adhesive" is any product, including glue, that can be used to bond two separate objects together. Unfortunately, no one adhesive works in all situations, though some may be used in all sorts of situations. Fun, right? The Natural Handyman carries a variety of different adhesives in his bag of tricks.

Heated Driveways: Who, What, Where, When Why and How

2011-12-13T06:55:00.000-08:00

What are heated driveways?
The obvious answer is, “a driveway that is heated,” but what actually heats the driveway? The best driveway heating systems are radiant heating systems, similar to indoor floor heating systems. There are both electric and hydronic radiant heating systems that can be used to heat outdoor surfaces.
Electric systems use an electric cable, and hydronic systems pump hot water through plastic tubing. The heating elements are compacted in the surface and use resistant heating to heat the surrounding surface. Most systems use automatic sensors to turn on the systems when it begins to snow. Electric systems tend to be more efficient, require less maintenance, and heat surfaces quicker. Hydronic systems are usually slightly more expensive to purchase and install, but the operational are usually lower. However, unless you’re heating extremely large areas, the advantages of electric systems tend to out weight those of hydronic systems.

Why install a driveway heating system?

Some of the obvious benefits are of course, not having to shovel your driveway again, prevention from slipping on icy surfaces, and no longer getting stuck in your driveway. Some other benefits include increasing the value of your home, prolonging the life of your driveway, and not harming the environment with harmful chemicals.

Where and When can you install a system?
Driveway heating systems can be installed in almost any location, in almost any medium (including concrete, asphalt, under pavers, etc.), and at almost anytime of the year (depending on the medium). The most popular and ideal time to install a system, is during new construction, and during the summer. However, as long as the conditions are fair enough to install the driveway, there are no limitations when installing the system.

How do the systems work?
Snow melting systems are composed of three main items: the heating element, the controller, and the activation device. The heating element can be either an electric heating cable, or PEX tubing for hot water. These heating elements usually be installed in almost any medium. Installing the system under pavers, and in new concrete makes for the easiest installation, but asphalt is still an option. The controller is either a wall-mounted control box for electric systems, or a boiler for hydronic systems. Hydronic systems also require other parts like pumps and manifolds for the system to operate. Both types of systems use manual and automatic activation devices. Available automatic sensors include aerial mounted and pavement mounted snow switches. These sensors activate the system when there is moisture present and the temperature is below approximately 38°. Most system come equipped with a back-up, manual 4 hour timer.

Who installs them and who sell them?
Electric snow melting systems are fairly easy to install, and any experienced “do-it-yourselfer”, contractor, or electricians would be a candidate for installing a system. There are several vendors of driveway heating systems, however, Warmzone, Inc., is a great source for any snow melting solutions. Warmzone, Inc. is the customers advocate, and helps select the best product for individual projects, both residential and commercial. They have a growing network of experienced installers, and are ready and willing to help where ever possible.

Warmzone, Inc. is one company who carries various types of radiant systems and is dedicated to specifying the product that makes the most sense for each individual job. Without a bias towards one system they have become a consumer advocate in the radiant industry and will save you time and money. Warmzone has already done the research and has selected to only work with the best products on the market. Because they are a large nation-wide wholesaler, they can offer you the best pricing by selling to you direct. You can receive a free estimate for your project by submitting a request at www.warmzone.com or calling them at 1-888-488-WARM.

Selecting A Radiant Heating System:Hydronic Hot Water vs. Electric Heating

2011-12-13T06:53:00.000-08:00

If you are looking to warm your floors with a radiant heat system, and have typed “radiant heat system” into a search engine, you might find yourself scratching your head at this point. There are dozens of products available to purchase, and there are even more companies telling you that their product is the best.
So which product is the best? Should you install a hydronic heating system that pumps hot water through your floors, an electric cable heating system, or a low voltage screen system? The answer lies in the type of project you are doing. Not every system is ideal for every project, but there is an ideal system for every project

Hydronic Heating Systems
Hydronic floor heating is the oldest and most popular type of radiant floor heating. These systems are comprised of a boiler or hot water heater, pumps, manifolds, pex tubing, thermostat, and either gypcrete (a concrete-like material) or wood panels. Hydronic heating is the most complex of all radiant heat systems. These systems require trained professionals to design and perform the installation. Your best economies of scale are achieved for hydronic systems in large areas or entire homes because of their expensive components and operational costs.

Hydronic systems can be installed under any type of flooring. Most hydronic systems require hot water tubing to be installed in a 2 to 4 inch bed of light concrete and are best installed during the initial construction because of its weight load demands and adjustments to floor height. Recent low-mass products have been developed to avoid these challenges by fitting the tubing into pre-cut wood panels making hydronic systems more convenient and possible for most major remodeling projects.

If you want to heat smaller areas like a bathroom or kitchen, a hydronic floor heating system may not be the best value for your project. The complexity and cost of installing the system, along with the long-term maintenance and up-keep required, is not worth the small amount you will save in operational costs.

Electric Cable Heating
Electric cable heating systems, often called line or high voltage systems, are gaining popularity and are ideal for heating smaller areas (10-300 square feet) like bathrooms, kitchens, and sun rooms. These systems are comprised of a thermostat and a heating cable. On some systems, the cable will be shipped to you as a large spool of cable. These systems are often times less expensive, and give you the ability to space the cable how you want and customize a layout that will heat every square inch of your floor. Other systems have the cable attached to a plastic mesh or tape to create a mat to maintain its proper spacing.

Every available cable system is equally effective, and so when determining which system to purchase, you should look at the warranty of the product, along with the ease of installation. Some cables must be embedded in a separate layer of concrete or mortar, whereas other systems can simply be installed in the thin set. Most cable systems can only be installed under tile. However, on others, if the cable is embedded in mortar or concrete, any flooring can be installed on top of the concrete. When heating smaller areas, it is nearly impossible to beat the simplicity and price of an electric cable heating system.

Low-Voltage Electric Screen or Mat
Finally, there are low-voltage radiant heat systems. These systems are ideal for mid-size to larger areas (300-3000 square feet) and are comprised of a control box, transformer, heating screen or cable, and thermostat. The main advantage to a low-voltage screen (Zmesh) system is the extremely low profile of the heating element. Zmesh is a 12 inch wide bronze-wired mesh that resembles screen door material. This mesh is practically paper thin and does not buildup floors during the installation. Zmesh can be installed directly under any type of flooring including hardwood, tile, and carpet. Whereas most cable systems must be installed on top of the concrete board when installing tile, Zmesh can be installed underneath it. These systems are easy to install and don’t require maintenance like a hydronic system.

Radiant heat technology has made significant advances over the years and is an excellent way to supplement your existing heating system or be your sole source of heat. One good way to be assured that you’re being sold the best system for your project is to buy from a company that offers all of the available types of radiant heat.

Acrylic Plastic Sheets or Plexiglas: Uses, Handling and Cutting

2011-12-07T08:51:00.000-08:00

From hockey rink barriers to fish tanks... from shatterproof glass replacements to skylights... acrylic plastic sheets have countless uses around the home. Here are some tips to make the most of this marvelous product! This article (with slight modification) courtesy of San Diego Plastics. Full credits at the end of this article. (Please note that plexiglas, often misspelled "plexiglass", is a trade name for acrylic plastic. They are exactly the same thing!)

Characteristics of the material

Plastic sheets made of acrylic plastic are half the weight of glass, are impact resistant, are not affected by the elements and have a useful temperature range from -30 degrees F. to 160 degrees F. These qualties make it an ideal replacement for glass in many situations, especially where glass breakage is an issue.
Cleaning Acrylic Plastic Sheets...

Wash with mild soap or detergent, with plenty of lukewarm water, dry with soft cloth or chamois. Grease, oil or tar can be removed with hexane or kerosene. Solvent residue should be removed by washing immediately.

Do Not Use window cleaning sprays (unless recommended for acrylic plastic), scouring compounds, acetone, gasoline, benzene, carbon tetrachloride or lacquer thinner. These solvents and cause permanent damage to the surface of the plastic, making it appear "frosted".
About the Paper or Plastic "Masking" Film on Acrylic Sheets...

All quality acrylic plastic sheeting is covered with a thin film on both sides. This film protects the plastic from minor scratches that can occur during transportation and installation.

Generally speaking, when working with the material leave the paper masking film on the sheet as long as possible. Except for intricate detail work you should remove the masking only when your project is completed.
Working with acrylic plastic sheets

Things to definitely do...
Do not remove the thin plastic masking until absolutely necessary.
Use metal cutting saw blades and drills which are specifically made for acrylic sheets.
It is essential to use sharp tools when trying to cut acrylic plastic sheets.
Overheating can cause cutting blades to load up and become dull. So always use cooling (water or oil) when cutting plastic over 1/8" thick or drilling plastic over 3/16" thick.
Wet the material before cleaning.

Things to NOT do...

Use saw blades with side-set teeth. Saw teeth ideally should be ground with 0° of rake and be of uniform height and shape.

How To Cut Acrylic Plastic Sheet
Cutting with a knife or scriber

Acrylic sheet up to 3/16" thick may be cut by a method similar to that used to cut glass. Use a scribing knife, a metal scriber, an awl, or a utility knife to score the sheet. Draw the scriber several times (7 or 8 times for a 3/16" sheet) along a straight edge held firmly in place. Then clamp the sheet or hold it rigidly under a straight edge with the scribe mark hanging just over the edge of a table. Apply a sharp downward pressure to break the sheet along the scribe line. Scrape the edges to smooth any sharp corners. This method is not recommended for long breaks or thick material.
Cutting with power saws

Special blades are available to cut acrylic. Otherwise use blades designed to cut aluminum or copper. Teeth should be fine, of the same height, evenly spaced, with little or no set.
Table and circular saws

Use hollow ground high speed blades with no set and at least 5 teeth per inch. Carbide tipped blades with a triple chip tooth will give the smoothest cuts. Set the blade height about 1/8" above the height of the material. This will reduce edge chipping.

When using a hand held circular saw, clamp the sheet to the work surface and use a length of 1x3 wood to distribute the clamping pressure and act as a guide for the saw.

Feed the work slowly and smoothly. Lubricate the blade with soap or beeswax to minimize gumming from the masking adhesive. Be sure the saw is up to full speed before beginning the cut. Water cooling the blade is suggested for thicknesses over 1/4", especially if edge cementing will be performed.
Saber saws

Use metal or plastic cutting blades. The blades you use to cut acrylic should never be used for any other material. Cut at high speed and be sure the saw is at full speed before beginning the cut.
Hand saws

Good results are possible, but very difficult. Be sure the acrylic is clamped to prevent flexing. Flexing at the cut may cause cracking.
Routers and shapers

Use single fluted bits for inside circle routing and double fluted bits for edge routing. At the high speeds at which routers operate it is critical to avoid all vibration. Even small vibrations can cause crazing and fractures during routing.
Drilling Through Acrylic Plastic

For best results, use drill bits designed specifically for acrylic. Regular twist drills can be used, but need modification to keep the blade from grabbing and fracturing the plastic. Modify the bit by grinding small flats onto both cutting edges, so the bit cuts with a scraping action. If the drill is correctly sharpened and operated at the correct speed, two continuous spiral ribbons will emerge from the hole.
Finishing Cut Edges of Acrylic Plastic Sheets

The cut edges of plastic sheets can be both rough and razor sharp. Easing the edges makes handling easier and safer... now and if the sheet is ever removed from its mount!!
Scraping

The first step in getting a finished edge is scraping. The back of a hacksaw blade is perfect for scraping. Simply draw the corner of the square edge of the blade along the edge of the acrylic.

You can also use a utility knife. Draw the blade across the each side of the cut edge with the blade tilted in the direction you are moving. You don't want to cut into the plastic sheet, just to knock off the high spots.
Filing

A 10 to 12 inch smooth cut file is recommended for filing edges and removing tool marks. Do not move the file back and forth... file only in one direction or you may chip the plastic. Keep the teeth flat on the surface, but let the file slide at an angle to avoid putting grooves in the work.
Sanding

If necessary, start with 120 grit sandpaper, used dry. Then switch to a 220 grit paper, dry. Finish with a 400 grit wet/dry paper, used wet. Grits as fine as 600 may be used. Always use a wooden or rubber sanding block.

When removing scratches be sure to sand an area larger than the scratch. Sand with a circular motion, and use a light touch and plenty of water with wet/dry papers.

Almost any commercial power sander can be used with acrylic. Use light pressure and slower speeds.
Polishing

Final polishing will give acrylic a high luster. Power-driven buffing tools are recommended without exception. Buffing wheels are available as attachments for electric drills.

A good buffing wheel for acrylic consists of layers of 3/16" carbonized felt, or layers of unbleached muslin laid together to form a wheel. Solidly stitched wheels should be avoided.

The wheel should reach a surface speed of at least 1200 feet per minute. Speeds of up to 4000 feet per minute are useful for acrylic.

Acrylic should be polished using a commercial buffing compound of the type used for silver or brass, or you can use a non- silicone car polish that has no cleaning solvents in it.

First, however, tallow should be applied to the wheel as a base for the buffing compound. Just touch the tallow stick to the spinning wheel, and then quickly apply the buffing compound.

To polish, move the piece back and forth across the buffing wheel. Be careful not to apply too much pressure. Keep the work constantly moving to prevent heat buildup.

Never begin polishing at the edge of the sheet. The wheel could easily catch the top edge and throw the piece across the room or at you.
Forming and Bending Acrylic Plastic
Acrylic Plastic Sheets or "Plexiglas" - Its Uses, Handling and Cutting

From hockey rink barriers to fish tanks... from shatterproof glass replacements to skylights... acrylic plastic sheets have countless uses around the home. Here are some tips to make the most of this marvelous product! This article (with slight modification) courtesy of San Diego Plastics. Full credits at the end of this article. (Please note that plexiglas, often misspelled "plexiglass", is a trade name for acrylic plastic. They are exactly the same thing!)
Characteristics of the material

Plastic sheets made of acrylic plastic are half the weight of glass, are impact resistant, are not affected by the elements and have a useful temperature range from -30 degrees F. to 160 degrees F. These qualties make it an ideal replacement for glass in many situations, especially where glass breakage is an issue.
Cleaning Acrylic Plastic Sheets...

Wash with mild soap or detergent, with plenty of lukewarm water, dry with soft cloth or chamois. Grease, oil or tar can be removed with hexane or kerosene. Solvent residue should be removed by washing immediately.

Do Not Use window cleaning sprays (unless recommended for acrylic plastic), scouring compounds, acetone, gasoline, benzene, carbon tetrachloride or lacquer thinner. These solvents and cause permanent damage to the surface of the plastic, making it appear "frosted".
About the Paper or Plastic "Masking" Film on Acrylic Sheets...

All quality acrylic plastic sheeting is covered with a thin film on both sides. This film protects the plastic from minor scratches that can occur during transportation and installation.

Generally speaking, when working with the material leave the paper masking film on the sheet as long as possible. Except for intricate detail work you should remove the masking only when your project is completed.
Working with acrylic plastic sheets

Things to definitely do...

Do not remove the thin plastic masking until absolutely necessary.
Use metal cutting saw blades and drills which are specifically made for acrylic sheets.
It is essential to use sharp tools when trying to cut acrylic plastic sheets.
Overheating can cause cutting blades to load up and become dull. So always use cooling (water or oil) when cutting plastic over 1/8" thick or drilling plastic over 3/16" thick.
Wet the material before cleaning.

Things to NOT do...

Use saw blades with side-set teeth. Saw teeth ideally should be ground with 0° of rake and be of uniform height and shape.

How To Cut Acrylic Plastic Sheet
Cutting with a knife or scriber

Acrylic sheet up to 3/16" thick may be cut by a method similar to that used to cut glass. Use a scribing knife, a metal scriber, an awl, or a utility knife to score the sheet. Draw the scriber several times (7 or 8 times for a 3/16" sheet) along a straight edge held firmly in place. Then clamp the sheet or hold it rigidly under a straight edge with the scribe mark hanging just over the edge of a table. Apply a sharp downward pressure to break the sheet along the scribe line. Scrape the edges to smooth any sharp corners. This method is not recommended for long breaks or thick material.
Cutting with power saws

Special blades are available to cut acrylic. Otherwise use blades designed to cut aluminum or copper. Teeth should be fine, of the same height, evenly spaced, with little or no set.
Table and circular saws

Use hollow ground high speed blades with no set and at least 5 teeth per inch. Carbide tipped blades with a triple chip tooth will give the smoothest cuts. Set the blade height about 1/8" above the height of the material. This will reduce edge chipping.

When using a hand held circular saw, clamp the sheet to the work surface and use a length of 1x3 wood to distribute the clamping pressure and act as a guide for the saw.

Feed the work slowly and smoothly. Lubricate the blade with soap or beeswax to minimize gumming from the masking adhesive. Be sure the saw is up to full speed before beginning the cut. Water cooling the blade is suggested for thicknesses over 1/4", especially if edge cementing will be performed.
Saber saws

Use metal or plastic cutting blades. The blades you use to cut acrylic should never be used for any other material. Cut at high speed and be sure the saw is at full speed before beginning the cut.
Hand saws

Good results are possible, but very difficult. Be sure the acrylic is clamped to prevent flexing. Flexing at the cut may cause cracking.
Routers and shapers

Use single fluted bits for inside circle routing and double fluted bits for edge routing. At the high speeds at which routers operate it is critical to avoid all vibration. Even small vibrations can cause crazing and fractures during routing.
Drilling Through Acrylic Plastic

For best results, use drill bits designed specifically for acrylic. Regular twist drills can be used, but need modification to keep the blade from grabbing and fracturing the plastic. Modify the bit by grinding small flats onto both cutting edges, so the bit cuts with a scraping action. If the drill is correctly sharpened and operated at the correct speed, two continuous spiral ribbons will emerge from the hole.
Finishing Cut Edges of Acrylic Plastic Sheets

The cut edges of plastic sheets can be both rough and razor sharp. Easing the edges makes handling easier and safer... now and if the sheet is ever removed from its mount!!
Scraping

The first step in getting a finished edge is scraping. The back of a hacksaw blade is perfect for scraping. Simply draw the corner of the square edge of the blade along the edge of the acrylic.

You can also use a utility knife. Draw the blade across the each side of the cut edge with the blade tilted in the direction you are moving. You don't want to cut into the plastic sheet, just to knock off the high spots.
Filing

A 10 to 12 inch smooth cut file is recommended for filing edges and removing tool marks. Do not move the file back and forth... file only in one direction or you may chip the plastic. Keep the teeth flat on the surface, but let the file slide at an angle to avoid putting grooves in the work.
Sanding

If necessary, start with 120 grit sandpaper, used dry. Then switch to a 220 grit paper, dry. Finish with a 400 grit wet/dry paper, used wet. Grits as fine as 600 may be used. Always use a wooden or rubber sanding block.

When removing scratches be sure to sand an area larger than the scratch. Sand with a circular motion, and use a light touch and plenty of water with wet/dry papers.

Almost any commercial power sander can be used with acrylic. Use light pressure and slower speeds.
Polishing

Final polishing will give acrylic a high luster. Power-driven buffing tools are recommended without exception. Buffing wheels are available as attachments for electric drills.

A good buffing wheel for acrylic consists of layers of 3/16" carbonized felt, or layers of unbleached muslin laid together to form a wheel. Solidly stitched wheels should be avoided.

The wheel should reach a surface speed of at least 1200 feet per minute. Speeds of up to 4000 feet per minute are useful for acrylic.

Acrylic should be polished using a commercial buffing compound of the type used for silver or brass, or you can use a non- silicone car polish that has no cleaning solvents in it.

First, however, tallow should be applied to the wheel as a base for the buffing compound. Just touch the tallow stick to the spinning wheel, and then quickly apply the buffing compound.

To polish, move the piece back and forth across the buffing wheel. Be careful not to apply too much pressure. Keep the work constantly moving to prevent heat buildup.

Never begin polishing at the edge of the sheet. The wheel could easily catch the top edge and throw the piece across the room or at you.
Forming and Bending Acrylic Plastic
Acrylic sheets can be heated to make them pliable. It will become rigid again when it cools. Never heat acrylic in a kitchen oven. Explosive fumes can accumulate inside the oven, and ignite.

A strip heater is the best tool to form acrylic. This tool will only form straight line bends. Buy one from your acrylic dealer. The strip heater will heat just the area to be formed.

Heat the sheet until it begins to sag at the bend line. The bend should be made away from the side exposed to the heating element. Sheet thicker than 3/16" should be heated on both sides for a proper bend. Use forming jigs or clamps for best results, and wear heavy cotton gloves when handling heated acrylic.

Forming other than straight line bends will generally require specialized equipment and jigs.
Joining Acrylic Plastic Pieces Together

Solvent cementing is recommended for joining acrylic. There are two techniques for solvent cementing... capillary and dip or soak... which dissolve the contact surfaces to join the acrylic pieces. A third method is viscous cementing, where dissolved acrylic is used as the cement.

Note that the descriptions below may not be sufficient for all circumstances and some experimentation with the materials may be needed for the amateur craftsman to make perfect joints with this material.

Edges should be smooth for the strongest and best looking joints.
Capillary cementing
This is the most popular method for joining acrylic edge to edge. However, this method will not work at all unless the parts to be joined fit together PERFECTLY.

Make sure the parts fit properly. Then join them with masking tape or clamp them in a form to hold them firmly in place. It is important that the joint be in a horizontal plane, or the cement will run out of the joint.

Apply the cement carefully along the entire joint. Apply from the inside of a box-corner joint, and on both sides of a flat joint. A needle-nosed applicator bottle is recommended. The thin cement will flow into the joint through capillary action and form a strong bond. Maximum bond strength will not be reached for 24 to 48 hours.
Soak or dip cementing

This is suggested only for THICK joints. Stand the edge to be glued in a tray of solvent (dip tray) for about twenty seconds. Remove the acrylic from the dip tray and allow excess solvent to run off. Immediately put the softened edge of the acrylic against the piece to be attached. Do not apply excessive pressure... just allow the solvent from the first piece to soften the second. After 30 seconds, increase the pressure so the edges make strong contact, which also should force out any air bubbles. Clamping is recommended for this part.

Though clamps can be released after thirty minutes, full strength might not be reached for a few days.
Viscous cementing

Viscous cements are used for joints that can't be cemented with capillary or soak cementing, either because the joint is difficult to reach or because the parts don't fit properly. Viscous cement is thick and will fill small gaps. It can make strong transparent joints where solvent can't.
You can make your own viscous cement by dissolving chips of clear acrylic sheet in a small amount of solvent. Apply a small bead of cement to one side of the joint, join the pieces, and tape or clamp in place until cured.