Happi checked in with leading testing service companies about how they can help marketers with safety and efficacy claims through new technologies and tools, sound advice and ethical practices. 

HAPPI: What are some requests your company has received regarding testing over the past year and how did you meet these customer needs? 

Craig Weiss/Consumer Product Testing: We recently added hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy for ISO 23698 SPF testing based on client’s requests.  Also, with the changes made by USP we added a MS-MS (tandem mass spectrometry) for the testing of nitrosamines. 

Rich Ulmer/InVitro International: The application of safety testing in the children’s safety arena was new and stimulating for us this past year.

Rania Ibrahim/SkinScience Analytics: We receive a high volume of requests for HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) testing. We also receive several requests for hydration and skin barrier studies. Our location in Arizona, with its exceptionally dry climate, provides an ideal environment for this type of testing, and we have five dedicated, sequestered rooms specifically designed to support these studies. We offer shared panels that make this type of testing very cost effective for brands. 

Hair growth studies are another area of significant interest. Our dermatologist has extensive expertise in hair loss and its mitigation, allowing us to provide specialized clinical oversight in this area. Consumer perception studies are also frequently requested, largely due to our cost-effective approach and rapid turnaround times. We are able to deliver efficient, well-designed studies while maintaining the scientific rigor and quality our clients expect.

Jane Tervooren/Validated Claim Support: We have been overwhelmed with requests for the highest quality ‘before and after’ imaging available industry wide. We are uniquely positioned as the only CRO (contract research organization) that is approved by QVC and HSN as a clinical laboratory and marketing photography studio, and we are able to meet clients’ requests on a case by case basis.

HAPPI: What’s the one thing that you wish every customer understood about testing?

Rania Ibrahim: What I wish customers understood about testing is that the purpose of a clinical study is to find out whether a product actually delivers the claimed benefit—not to confirm something we already know. The outcome is not predetermined, and that is precisely what makes the testing meaningful. Sometimes a product performs exactly as expected, and sometimes the data may not support the claims a client hoped to make. 

While an unexpected result can certainly be disappointing, it is an inherent and important part of objective scientific testing. The value of testing is in providing credible, unbiased data that tells you what the product actually does.

Jane Tervooren: It takes some time to prepare a high-quality testing design, please give us ample lead time so that we can provide you with the highest quality experience.

Craig Weiss: The information necessary for us to assemble a testing program. 

Rich Ulmer: Search and find the fastest ethical testing lab versus the lowest cost or biggest “brand name” or advertiser; it’s out there!

HAPPI: What is your advice for new brand founders or owners as they embark on launching a product?

Jane Tervooren: Do your due diligence and deal with an ethical clinical testing lab, one which will be honest with you and has your best interests at heart and is not just trying to win your business. Whenever possible, visit the lab in person to check out where you are spending your money.

Craig Weiss: I would recommend that all new brands evaluate their product at reputable third party prior to launch and to understand that pricing should not be the only determining factor, as you get what you pay for. 

Rich Ulmer: Beat the launch date by saving time, months and money by safety testing your first-choice formulation early.  Stability and other data aren’t needed yet if a formulation is not foremost user friendly. 

Rania Ibrahim: Safety testing should never be viewed as optional—it is an essential investment in protecting your brand, minimizing liability, and, most importantly, ensuring the safety of your customers. If you plan to make product claims, make sure they are supported by credible, objective or subjective data; strong claims should be built on strong science.

HAPPI: Tell us about recent developments at your company.

Rich Ulmer: Recent developments have held back implementation of InVitro International’s new corporate strategy and direction, so 2027 could well be a breakout year. 

Rania Ibrahim: We recently expanded our capabilities to include neurofeedback testing, an innovative approach that allows brands to evaluate how products influence brainwave activity and identify associated emotional responses and product attributes. This emerging technology provides an additional layer of insight into the consumer experience beyond traditional clinical and perception measures. 

We have also recently launched antiperspirant and deodorant testing, incorporating trained expert odor judges to provide objective evaluations of odor-control performance. Looking ahead, we plan to launch our sunscreen testing capabilities by the end of 2026, further expanding our portfolio of efficacy testing services.

Jane Tervooren: We are focused on expanding our subject data base and targeting the most challenging conditions to recruit, like acne, psoriasis, eczema and hair loss.

Craig Weiss: In 2027, we will be making investments in adding to our in-vitro testing to add cosmetic efficacy testing. 

Looking for a testing partner? Click here for a directory of testing service providers.

The Hyrox race in Beijing last month caused quite a stir among exercise fanatics—and for all the wrong reasons. 

If you aren’t familiar with Hyrox, it is an indoor fitness competition that combines running and a series of exercise stations. Participants run a kilometer and then push a weighted sled. They then run another kilometer and carry heavy kettlebells; run another kilometer and hop on a rowing machine… Competitors carry on like this for about five miles and through eight different stations. 

The first Hyrox race was held in Germany in 2017. Races now happen in 30 countries and about 1.5 million people are said to take part each year.

What was the uproar? It was a downpour, so to speak. This year, an elite competitor continued through the course after she suffered bowel incontinence somewhere along the way. 

When I heard the news, my initial thought was, “What dedication!”

My next thought: What about everybody else in the race, who, like that stalwart athlete, hurled themselves through burpees across the same floor and tossed the same medicine balls against the wall? Did they have access to wipes? Did anyone break out a mop and disinfectant on the course? 

Debate about the situation spread quickly across social media—to no one’s surprise—and the conversations were heated.

The race organizers have since said they didn’t respond appropriately onsite and they are putting clearer rules and protocols in place to keep competitors safe in future competitions. 

My latest thought: What an opportunity for some high-profile sports marketing collaborations (hello Purell, Ecolab, Dial)! Or, maybe Hyrox wants to create their own brand of hand soap? 

I know exactly where they can get started: this issue of Happi! 

Our annual contract manufacturing and private label directory begins on p. 48. There you’ll find companies that make soap, hand sanitizer and cleaning products as well as skin care, hair care and cosmetics. These firms have the capabilities to take your idea from the back of the envelope to the front gondola display.

Christine Esposito
Editor-in-Chief

cesposito@rodmanmedia.com

So goes the name of a new scalp and hair longevity brand founded by former Google employees Ye Jin and Nick Burns. This past summer, Manuscript was among the dozen beauty brands invited into Sephora Accelerate, the retailer’s incubator program. 

A Personal Project

The co-founders, who met through a mutual friend, bonded over their hairy experiences with hair loss. 

For Jin, months of GLP-1 medication resulted in a noticeably, albeit temporary, wider part. 

Burns, who also dabbled with the weight loss medication, attributed signs of androgenetic alopecia to genetic predisposition (it affects roughly 50% of men by age 50, according to sources).  

Whatever the root cause, one thing was clear: they needed a fix that addressed comprehensive concerns from hair loss to a healthy scalp microbiome to an “anti-grey” solution that would be safe, effective, inexpensive and easy to use.

“One thing we really bonded over was our own frustrations with hair loss treatments,” Burns told Happi. “It definitely runs in my family. We’re both in our 40s and hitting that age where it’s more common in people in our age group to begin experiencing changes in your hair whether it’s hair loss or greying or changes in texture. We really wanted to create a product that we wanted that we didn’t see in the market and that we really needed. It’s a personal project for us.”

The pair put their heads together by merging Jin’s financial background as an angel investor in the beauty industry with Burns’ expertise as a beauty writer and critic for publications from The New York Times to Gentlemen’s Quarterly. 

With Manuscript, the budding entrepreneurs want the tens of millions of consumers who are experiencing this common concern to know they hold the pen to their “mane” story.

“I [have a] predisposition to hair loss, but it doesn’t mean that has to happen,” said Burns. “There are options. We have agency to be able to take steps to prevent that and slow it down. It’s this idea of writing your own story. That you are in control of your own story.”

Longevity Serum

Manuscript’s debut SKU, Root Water Hair Longevity Serum, will launch this season. It was developed with an R&D team from a leading contract manufacturer in Korea. 

The serum, formulated with peptides and their manufacturing partner’s patented technology, addresses thinning and is designed to reduce new gray hair growth. The founders say it should be applied daily for three months before users can start to see results.

Jin and Burns view their debut product as the first of many longevity formulas designed to restore hair and scalp to a more youthful state. 

Advanced Science Laboratories, Inc.

New City, NY
845-634-1500
info@advancedsl.com
www.advancedsl.com

Advanced Science Laboratories, Inc. is an FDA registered, ISO 9001:2015 certified and GCP compliant clinical testing and claim support laboratory headquartered 35 miles outside midtown Manhattan. We provide custom tailored study protocols to address any of your unique claims.

Alliance Technical Group

Monmouth Junction, NJ
732-355-1234
www.alliancetg.com 

Since 2000, Alliance Technical Group has been solving the problems of environmental management and compliance for some of the foremost companies and brands in North America. From on-site testing and monitoring to laboratory testing and regulatory strategy, it helps clients achieve their business objectives while also supporting their sustainability goals.

Ametek Brookfield 

Middleboro, MA 
508-946-6200
www.brookfieldengineering.com

With a legacy dating to 1934, Ametek Brookfield is synonymous with viscosity as the pioneer of the viscosity measurement instrument that set the global standard still recognized today. Since then, the company has been at the forefront of innovative solutions to offer an extensive range of scientific lab instrumentation including viscometers, rheometers, powder flow testers, texture analyzers, Computrac moisture analysis instruments and Jerome toxic gas analyzers. Together, they consistently meet regulatory regulations and customer application needs.

BioScreen Testing Services, Inc

Torrance, CA 
310-214-0043
www.alsglobal.com/en/bioscreen 

BioScreen Testing Services, Inc. was acquired by ALS Global, a multinational company that is a global leader in providing analytical testing, inspection, auditing and consulting services to a wide range of industries. With over 350 locations across 55 countries and on six continents, ALS provides data-driven insights and testing solutions for the Minerals, Life Sciences (including food, environmental, pharmaceutical and animal health), Energy and Industrial sectors. The company emphasizes quality, technical excellence, innovation and sustainability, focusing on leveraging science to create a safer and healthier world.

Certified Laboratories for Cosmetics, OTC & Supplements

Burbank, CA
818-845-0070
COS-inquiries@certifiedgroup.com
www.certified-laboratories.com

Certified Laboratories partners with customers to deliver innovative scientific solutions and expertise in support of the food & beverage, cosmetic, OTC, supplements and other regulated industries.

Charles River Laboratories Microbial Solutions

Charleston, SC
1-877-CRIVER-1 | 877-274-8371
askcharles@criver.com
www.criver.com

As a partner for microbial quality control, the Charles River portfolio of Celsis microbial detection and Accugenix microbial identification solutions provide the products and services needed to confirm the safety and quality of home and personal care products while maintaining an efficient and profitable manufacturing process.

Comprehensive Research Group, Inc

Minneapolis, MN 
612-781-3400
www.crginc.org
For customer inquiries: tbaubie@crginc.org

For over 35 years, CRG has been an industry pioneer specializing in clinical research for the personal care, baby care, and beauty industries. We deliver the flawless safety and efficacy data that major global manufacturers rely on to launch market-leading products with total confidence. Partner with an experienced leader. Let Comprehensive Research Group, Inc. transform your product performance into scientifically validated, market-ready claims that build absolute consumer trust. Personal care, cosmetics, and premium beauty products aren’t just a small division of what we do—they are our exclusive focus.

Consumer Product Testing Company

Fairfield, NJ
973-808-7111
sales@cptclabs.com
https://cptclabs.com

Consumer Product Testing^SM Company is a world-renowned, global leader in the contract laboratory testing of cosmetics, personal care, pharmaceuticals and specialty chemicals. Since 1975, we have assisted clients with their testing needs from conception to completion. The services offered include clinical safety and performance claims validation, photobiology, analytical chemistry, microbiology, in-vitro safety and consulting services. We are a GMP; GLP;GCP;ISO/IEC 17025:2005 accredited lab.

Eurofins | EAG Laboratories

San Diego, CA
877-709-9526
www.eag.com

EAG Laboratories delivers multi-disciplinary, problem-solving expertise to help its customers accelerate innovation, ensure quality and safety, and protect intellectual property.

Eurofins | CRL, Inc.

Piscataway, NJ
732-981-1616
info@crlresearchlabs.com
www.CRLResearchLabs.com

Eurofins CRL was established in 1992 and stands as an ISO 9001:2015 and GCP-compliant contract laboratory, operating at the forefront of clinical safety and efficacy testing. With headquarters in central New Jersey and additional facilities in North Carolina and Texas, Eurofins CRL is dedicated to serving the cosmetic, beauty products, personal care and pharmaceutical sectors. With a robust track record spanning more than two decades, Eurofins CRL has completed over 20,000 clinical testing studies for over 300 businesses, including some of the world’s leading consumer products companies. Its expertise extends across various domains, including: dermatology, photobiology, (SPF testing); ophthalmology; bioinstrumentation, (Efficacy and Claim Substantiation); microbiology; cosmetology; custom clinical trials and associated services.

Genemarkers, LLC 

Kalamazoo, MI 
844-220-6231
info@genemarkersllc.com
www.genemarkersllc.com

For nearly two decades, Genemarkers has been dedicated to advancing the development of safe and effective pharmaceutical and consumer products. With its team of experienced scientists and cutting-edge testing services, it has earned the trust of the world’s leading biopharmaceutical and consumer product manufacturers. The company is dedicated to integrity and innovation as it supports healthcare providers in identifying optimal medications for their patients, assisting pharmaceutical companies in developing effective therapies, and collaborating with consumer product companies to create the most impactful product formulations.

InVitro International 

Placentia, CA
invitro@invitrointl.com
www.invitrointl.com

InVitro International is a technology/customer driven provider of non-animal testing methods. IVRO tests are designed to produce eye/skin irritation & skin corrosivity OECD/GHS Regulatory level results to replace/reduce animal or human tests, IVRO offers both laboratory services and test kits.

Q Laboratories, Inc.

Cincinnati, OH 
513-471-1300
office@qlaboratories.com
www.qlaboratories.com

Q Laboratories has served the food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, health and beauty care, medical device and dietary supplement industries since 1966, offering comprehensive microbiology, analytical chemistry and research & development laboratory services. An independent laboratory, combining state-of-the-art technology with personal service and attention, Q Laboratories can provide services to meet testing and quality assurance needs. Q Laboratories is ISO/IEC 17025 Accredited, GMP/GLP Compliant, FDA Registered, a MicroVal Expert Laboratory, an AOAC Recommended Laboratory, An AFNOR Expert Laboratory, CDC ELITE Certified for Legionella Detection in Water, and Certified by the Ohio EPA for Potable Water Microbiological Analysis. A privately-owned company, Q Laboratories can provide a superior level of scientific excellence combined with unmatched customer service and responsiveness. For over 50 years, Q Laboratories has helped companies around the world produce safe, high-quality products.

RCTS, Inc.

Irving, TX
972-871-4371
barry.reece@alsglobal.com
https://rctslabs.com

RCTS provides clinical testing services to assess the safety and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and consumer products, with an emphasis on dermatological and topically applied products.

Skinobs Platforms

Aix-les-Bains, France
+33(0)7 88 17 00 14
contact@skinobs.com
www.skinobs.com

Skinobs is a referral platform for preclinical and clinical testing. It offers beauty industry professionals an intuitive and free database with all skin, nail and hair testing solutions. A comprehensive and independent tool, Skinobs offers two platforms dedicated to pre-clinicals tests (in-silico, in-tubo, in-vitro or ex-vivo) and clinical tests (in-vivo on humans) to optimize product development in terms of performance, cost, speed and innovation.

Skinobs allows R&D managers, formulators, marketing or regulatory managers, cosmetic brands and active ingredient manufacturers to identity for all claims, the best methods and measuring devices and test laboratories. This allows direct and easy contact between professionals and efficient and fast exchanges. Today, Skinobs has more than 7,000 users from 93 nationalities. 

SkinScience Analytics

Phoenix, AZ USA
602-313-8072
www.ss-analytics.com
For customer inquiries: rania@ss-analytics.com

SkinScience Analytics is a cosmetic and personal care product testing service dedicated to helping brands bring safe, market-ready products to consumers. SSA specializes in safety testing, including HRIPT, Non-Comedogenic, and Safety-in-Use studies, along with consumer perception and efficacy studies, including hydration, barrier, anti-aging, and hair growth. Backed by an experienced clinical team, SSA delivers rigorous, science-driven testing so companies can move from formulation to market with confidence.

Solar Light Company, Inc. 

Glenside, PA
215-517-8700
info@solarlight.com
www.SolarLight.com

Solar Light, the leader in Sunscreen SPF and Broadband measurement equipment for 50 years, has developed disruptive new HDRS technology that provides faster and safer measurements. Solar Light is your single source for all the equipment, instrumentation, on-site maintenance, consumables and application training needed to meet FDA and ISO standards.

Validated Claim Support, LLC

Teaneck, NJ
201-331-9300
sales@validatedcs.com
validatedcs.com

VCS is an FDA registered and inspected, privately held clinical testing site in Teaneck, NJ. Specializing in expert grading, biophysical instrumentation, consumer perception and visual claims, we provide novel testing methods & top-notch photography to help build consumer trust. Experience the best customer service in the industry and contact VCS today.

Zurko Research

Madrid, Spain
+34 91 521 15 88
info@zurkoresearch.com
www.zurkoresearch.com

Zurko Research is a leading European CRO with more than 16 years of experience, specialized in in vivo, in vitro and ex vivo testing, as well as regulatory strategy consultancy services.

We all know that the age-accelerating oxidative damage is the result of pernicious actions by reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as hydrogen peroxide, superoxide anion radical, hydroxyl radical and singlet oxygen, while molecular oxygen is more of a necessary, helpful molecule. Indeed, if we were to take a poll to select the longevity molecule number one, we might very well expect that the general consensus would materialize around molecular oxygen, O₂. This might well explain why so much research is devoted to technologies aiming at using oxygen in skin care, such as for instance, the application of hyperbaric oxygen. Indeed, oxygen taken up from the environment, or from a topically applied concoction able to release molecular oxygen, would fight anoxia and avoid spider and varicose veins. It would also boost cellular metabolism, thus keeping ATP synthesis and membrane potential at homeostatic levels. It would also avoid cellular necrosis and the consequent microinflammatory response that is the most efficient single mechanism leading to skin aging.

In this frame of thinking, a strong, eye-catching claim was made for a very recent skin care product. The product is said to release carbon dioxide (CO₂) to boost oxygen and achieve a totally hydrated, firm and bright skin. And, my eye was caught, and I have a few questions about it.

Biochemistry of CO2

We know since high school chemistry class that all the metabolic pathways of animal cells end up in releasing the ultimate trash that consists of urea and CO₂. Since urea has been used as a moisturizer, it is not to be excluded a priori that carbon dioxide, despite its environmental ill repute, might be of use in skin care. 

And yet, the idea of dipping the skin in an atmosphere rich in carbon dioxide appears preposterous. First, because our skin is not equipped with the photosynthetic complex characteristic of plants, that would allow the release of a rush of oxygen from carbon dioxide. And then because, by exposing the skin to excess carbon dioxide, one might hinder the uptake of molecular oxygen from the environment. This would limit the access of oxygen to skin  cells and decrease energy production in those epidermal cells that receive oxygen from the environment and not from the blood.
Finally, we know that oxygen and CO₂ bind to hemoglobin in different sites. We also know that the pH of the blood decreases when the level of CO₂ increases, and that at lower pH the conformation of hemoglobin changes, the affinity of oxygen for hemoglobin is decreased and oxygen is released. 

So, while hindering the uptake of oxygen from the outside, an increase of carbon dioxide around the skin would squeeze all the oxygen out of red blood cells, but this is already happening “naturally”! And I am not sure that this excess CO₂ is able to extract residual oxygen from erythrocytes… if any is left. I do not see what kind of rush of oxygen can be provoked by a product providing extra carbon dioxide to the skin.

This is one point, but I do not rest my case. I do have another questions: where does the carbon dioxide come from?

One might recall how an antacid drug such as magnesium carbonate (MgCO₃) does work. In the presence of an acid such as hydrochloric acid (HCl) that can be abundant in the stomach, orally administered magnesium carbonate forms magnesium chloride, water and carbon dioxide. 

Well, but…If we put an acid in a formula containing magnesium carbonate, CO₂ will be released quite quickly, perhaps making bubbles in the formula, and will no longer be available at the moment of the topical application. So the acid must be “generated” at earliest, after the topical application. How do we do that?

One might think: “Aha! The skin is acid! Let us put magnesium carbonate on the skin and as soon as the product hits the stratum corneum, we will release a rush of carbon dioxide!” Unfortunately, that will not work. The skin is far from being acid. The pH of the stratum corneum is closer to 7 or 8 that to 5 or 6¹ and there are not many chances that in a non-acidic environment, magnesium carbonate will undergo the process described above.

Conclusion

This is a discussion from first principles and, as such, it will always be susceptible to criticisms and disagreements. A good friend of mine used to say: “The proof is in the pudding.” 

The brands introducing products as releasers of carbon dioxide to drench the skin in oxygen should provide a description of a clinical test, easy to perform, indicating the kinetic release of carbon dioxide upon topical application of the product, and the consequent rush of oxygen. The quantitative description of the cutaneous benefits would also be welcome. 

Without such or similar tests, the systematic doubt about those eye-catching claims remains mandatory.

Paolo Giacomoni, PhD

Insight Analysis Consulting
paologiac@gmail.com

Paolo Giacomoni acts as an independent consultant to the skin care industry. He served as Executive Director of Research at Estée Lauder and was Head of the Department of Biology with L’Oréal. He has built a record of achievements through research on DNA damage and metabolic impairment induced by UV radiation as well as on the positive effects of vitamins and antioxidants. He has authored more than 100 peer-reviewed publications and has more than 20 patents. He is presently Head of R&D with L.RAPHAEL—The science of beauty—Geneva, Switzerland.

References

1. Giacomoni PU (2020) Stratum corneum pH is closer to 7 than to 5. J Cosmet. Dermatol 19 : 1793-1794

—FUTURE BOSS

Dear Future,

I remember when I was a young chemist and was approached by the CEO of my company about becoming the R&D director for our lab. I turned the offer down, stating I wanted to remain in the lab, working on the bench. It turns out I didn’t exactly have a choice in the matter. The promotion started immediately.

When I told the CEO I wasn’t ready, he simply said, “You’ll be ready.” He encouraged me to seek out executive leadership training, which turned out to be some of the best advice I ever received. 

I had to first learn to leave the bench behind. While I was initially promised that I could still work in the lab and do some projects, the reality was that they needed me to lead my department. Soon after I took over R&D, I also acquired quality, regulatory and packaging. As you can imagine, the amount of time I got to spend at the bench rapidly dwindled. That was difficult for me to accept.

So… One of the first questions I’d ask yourself is: Are you prepared to step away from the bench? Or are you someone who really needs to remain hands-on? When you move into leadership, it isn’t always possible to continue doing the technical work yourself. Your job becomes making sure other people have what they need to do their work successfully. You have to decide if you’re ready for that transition.

The second challenge was going from being someone’s coworker to being their boss. This was probably the biggest challenge for me. In some ways, it might have been easier if I’d become a leader in a completely different organization where I hadn’t previously been a peer.

It wasn’t necessarily difficult—from my perspective—to manage people who had once been my coworkers. I had tremendous support from many in my department, but not everyone is going to support the CEO’s decision to elevate you into a leadership role. Those once friendships can create tenuous circumstances and you have to be okay with managing people, setting expectations, redirecting performance, and having difficult conversations. That has probably remained one of the most challenging parts of leadership for me.

Another thing I’d recommend is observing the leaders around you. Pay attention to how they work and how their teams are structured. Do they lead by example? What strategies do they use to keep their teams engaged? How are they perceived by the people who work for them? Leaders don’t necessarily have to be liked by their team, but they have to be respected. If they’re respected, that’s usually a good indicator that people are willing to work for them, even if they don’t particularly like them.

Also think about leaders for whom you have worked in the past. What were their strengths in terms of leading the department? Where could they have improved?

If you can take a leadership course or participate in an executive leadership program, do it. Don’t assume that because someone has become a boss, they automatically know how to lead. While leadership can be inherent to some, many people never receive any formal leadership training at all. One of the first things I learned in executive leadership training was to ask myself what leadership training my boss had. It’s usually none!

The truth is that many people don’t invest much time in learning how to be a leader. Leadership isn’t just about being fun, motivating, or inspiring. It’s about moving a group of people in the same direction toward a unified outcome that supports the strategic vision of the company. And when you’re dealing with many different personalities, motivations, and working styles, that can be quite a challenge.

Another quality I think makes a great leader is being of service to others. A leader is only as strong as their team. I’ve always found that the most rewarding part of my job was showing up to work and figuring out what my team needed from me to be successful. Working outside of yourself shows people that you’re committed not just to your own success, but to theirs as well. That goes a long way.

One final quality I think is essential to a leader is accountability. Ultimately, your team is your responsibility. This is something I really took to heart from “Extreme Ownership” by Jocko Willink and Leif Babin. The basic philosophy is that leaders have to take ownership of what happens on their team. You don’t go to your boss and throw one of your employees under the bus because they didn’t do their job. At the end of the day, you’re responsible for that person, you’re responsible for the work, and you’re responsible for creating an environment where the team can succeed. 

So if you’re looking toward lab leadership or R&D management, start developing your technical expertise, certainly, but also start learning how to manage people, think strategically, delegate and take accountability. And most importantly, start thinking less about what you can accomplish and more about what you can help an entire team accomplish.

For more answers to your questions from Valerie George, click here.

Valerie George

askvalerie@icloud.com

Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader, and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care at her company, Simply Formulas, and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist or showcasing her favorite ingredients to small brands and home formulators at simply-ingredients.com

According to Euromonitor International, the European suncare market was valued at $4.58 billion in 2025 and forecast to increase by 4.7% to reach $4.8 billion in 2026. 

The UK is the largest market in Europe for suncare, valued at $821.2 million in 2025 and forecast to increase by 2.9% in 2026. Italy registered $748.3 million and Spain $731.3 million in 2025, growing by 4.1% and 4.8% respectively.

Sun Care Integrates into Daily Skin Routines

The last two summers of prolonged heatwaves across Europe may be the start of a trend and a consequence of long-term climate change. Emilie Hood, senior consultant, Euromonitor International contends that hotter temperatures, longer summers and more frequent heatwaves are increasing consumer awareness of UV exposure. “Consumers increasingly view sun protection as part of their everyday skin routine rather than a product reserved for holidays,” she explains, noting that consumer choices are increasingly based around concerns about photoaging, hyperpigmentation and long-term skin health. 

This shift is evident in the number of suncare brands diversifying their ranges to include products with skincare claims. A key contributor is European dermocosmetics and dermatologist-backed brands, which are performing strongly across Europe. 

L’Oréal-owned La Roche-Posay is the UK’s leading dermatologist-recommended brand and recently partnered with the All England Lawn Tennis Club as the exclusive sun care supplier for the Wimbledon Championships. During the two-week tournament in June 2026, which coincided with hot sunny weather, the brand distributed more than 500,000 sunscreen samples. The Anthelios UV Sport range was launched at the same time as the tournament and consists of products formulated to deliver high-performance protection during sport and to help skin withstand the challenges of heat, sweat, movement and prolonged sun exposure. 

Other high performing European dermo-suncare brands include Eucerin (Beiersdorf), which has a range of products for specific sun-related issues, including Sensitive Protect, Pigment Control, Photoaging Control and Sun Allergy Protect. Avene (Pierre Fabre Group) uses a patented filtering system in its sun care products, which is said to increase the skin’s level of protection against photo aging due to the sun’s blue light, thereby offering high protection against deep and visible skin damage. 

Another noteworthy dermatologist endorsed suncare brand is Spanish Cantabria Labs Heliocare, which features ASPA-Fernblock, a powerful antioxidant containing a patented extract of the Polypodium leucotomos fern to help prevent and repair damage caused by daylight and environmental free radicals, and premature skin aging. The formula also contains ASPA from the Aspalathus linearis plant, commonly known as Rooibos, which is rich in flavonoids and exclusive to Cantabria Labs products. 

Lighter, Skin-Friendly Formulations

Euromonitor International survey data reveals a move away from traditional heavy, greasy formulations associated with sunscreen towards products that are similar in feel to skincare and makeup. These include ultra-light fluids, invisible mineral formulas, solar waters and tinted hybrid formats, which are suitable for use under or over makeup, and deliver on cosmetic effects such as glow, hydration and complexion enhancement. 

British Summer Time SPF30 is a new fast-absorbing non-greasy organic sun cream from London-based Pai Skincare that is aimed at the 50% of British Pai customers who have reacted negatively to an SPF. The formulation is based on natural zinc oxide and offers broad spectrum protection without leaving a white cast. 

Portable formats are also on the rise, such as sunscreen sticks and mists, which are more convenient for frequent reapplication throughout the day. Examples include La Roche Posay Anthelios UVAir Vitamin Sun Stick SPF50+ and Caudalie Invisible High Protection Spray SPF50. 

Innovation from Korean Suncare Brands

Driving this change for new textures and formats are launches from the Korean brands that are infiltrating the European market. For more on K-Beauty, go here.

Brands such as Beauty of Joseon, Round Lab and Anua are available in UK retail and online at competitive price points and tend to be perceived by consumers as being more innovative than local brands. 

“The success of Korean brands in Europe is best explained by a combination of innovation, accessibility and digital influence rather than any single factor. They are particularly successful at presenting sunscreen as a desirable skincare product with lightweight textures, elegant formulations and skincare ingredients that improve the user experience,” maintains Hood. 

Another factor in the success of Korean brands in Europe is their ability to connect directly with consumers on social media and shopping platforms such as TikTok. This is where consumers can pick up details of new product launches and learn about formulations, ingredients and usage, which help to drive brand awareness.

Euromonitor has identified the growing importance of algorithm-driven beauty discovery, creating favorable conditions for digitally agile brands. 

Meanwhile, Korean brands Beauty of Joseon and Skin 1004 are also gaining a strong European retail presence. Beauty of Joseon is available in the UK in Pure Seoul, a dedicated Korean beauty retailer, Boots, Sephora, Superdrug and John Lewis (department store). Skin 1004 has listings in Sephora, Rossmann (Germany) and Druni (Spain). 

Future Prospects

Euromonitor’s Hood believes that the future of suncare in Europe is likely to be shaped by the category’s continued evolution from sun protection to skin health protection. Daily SPF usage may be the key to future growth, along with the development of multifunctional products that offer additional benefits such as hydration, barrier support, anti-aging and complexion enhancement. 

Texture innovation will also play an important role in winning over consumers who may have been deterred from using sun protection products that have a heavy and sticky feel on the skin. 

Dermo-cosmetic brands and Korean formulations will be at the forefront of driving more regular use of sun protection products throughout the year. 

According to Hood, “The biggest winners in suncare are likely to be brands that combine high efficacy, elegant textures, multifunctional benefits and strong digital engagement.”

Imogen Matthews

Headington, Oxford UK

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry. www.imogenmatthews.co.uk

—STANDOUT CHEMIST

Dear Standout,

Whether you realize it or not, working as a cosmetic chemist, especially at a larger organization that can provide some structure, gives you the opportunity to develop many skills beyond learning how to just make great products.

Project management is first and foremost. Even if you have a project manager on your team, you need to act as your own! Be responsible for ensuring your work completed on time and that all the boxes are checked for the product’s deliverables, with clear timing laid out. Do you have all the necessary regulatory documents? Is the formula organized in your software or Excel in a way that allows anyone to open it and pick up the work?

Be organized so that others can look at your work and pick it up where you left off, if need be. I was always a stickler for good file management in my lab, with a standardized naming convention for every file so the file didn’t need to be opened for someone to know what it was.

Act as your own regulatory. Not only should you be obtaining all the regulatory documentation required for compliance, but literally open the documents, read them, and understand what you’re looking at. 

I can’t tell you how many projects I’ve seen end up in reformulation before they even launched because a chemist didn’t check their regulatory documentation. It’s such an easy aspect to overlook or assume that your regulatory team will handle. If your regulatory team has caught the issue, it’s too late. The sooner you can catch an issue, the easier everyone’s life becomes, and the better you can keep your project on track.

It’s also important to stay up to speed on regulations, rather than simply checking documentation when you need it. Regulations are always changing, and you can stay on track of what changes are being discussed before they’re even implemented. No legislation is enacted into law under total surprise. Changes are usually discussed for months, if not years, in advance. Staying informed really does save future formulation headaches.

Master articulation and succinctness in communication. Spending time gaining clarity (whether in formulation direction, performance revision, and so forth) provides an understanding of what you should be doing with your time. I also find that people are quite verbose in correspondence, with sometimes dilutes clarity of the message. I try to practice that if an email requires more than 5-7 sentences, I call the person. I know this can be tough in a world where people don’t want to pick up the phone, but pick up the phone and talk about it! (And of course, I always say paper has a good memory. Memorialize key talking points and action items from the call so everyone is on the same page.)

Being able to critically analyze data is of huge value. I had to take three statistics classes in college and I never thought I would be using the information and thought processes learned from those courses. Being able to understand not just how much a formula costs, but how it fits into an overall business model was of immense value. Consider taking a course in corporate finance through a business school. This will extend well beyond just your role at work!

Lastly, leadership. Even if you’re just wanted to remain a cosmetic chemist and not move into leadership roles, you’re still a leader within your job as a formulator. Having leadership skills allows you to lead projects and work effectively and cross-collaboratively with all the other people you need to get a project across the finish line. You might not be managing those people, but that doesn’t mean you can’t lead them. 

For more answers to your questions from Valerie George, click here.

Valerie George

askvalerie@icloud.com

Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader, and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care at her company, Simply Formulas, and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist or showcasing her favorite ingredients to small brands and home formulators at simply-ingredients.com

The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) hosted a centennial celebration on Sept. 15 at the Smithsonian National Postal Museum in Washington, DC. Joined by member organizations, government officials and various industry supporters, ACI presented the Champion of Clean Awards to US Senator Shelley Moore Capito (R-WV) and US Rep. Darren Soto (D-FL). 

The new award recognizes leadership in advancing science-based policy, manufacturing innovation and public health, according to ACI.

Both Sen. Capito and Rep. Soto accepted their honor on stage from ACI Chair Suzanne Carroll, senior vice president, consumer and life sciences at Nouryon. 

“The cleaning products industry supports good-paying jobs in West Virginia and across the country, strengthening American manufacturing and keeping families, schools, workplaces and communities healthy,” said Sen. Capito, who is chair of the Senate Committee on Environment and Public Works. She commended ACI for its work “drive sound science, ground-breaking innovation and pro-growth policies that help manufacturers invest and compete here in America.”

“A strong cleaning products sector is absolutely essential for my district and the broader Orlando community. With our worldleading theme parks, hotels and venues for tourists, business travelers, and families driving millions of visitors to our city every year, clean spaces keep families safe and our economy humming,” added Rep. Soto, a leading member of the House Energy and Commerce Committee. Soto has championed policies that support the cleaning products industry’s focus on circularity, sustainability, and recycling innovation, according to ACI.

“Champions of Clean like Senator Capito and Representative Soto are crucial to the economy-driving success of our supply chain and its effort to deliver essential products that allow homes, schools, hospitals, workplaces and public spaces remain clean, safe and functional,” according to Jennifer Abril, ACI’s president and CEO. “They stand out for their pro-science, pro-innovation policies in Congress, which enable the cleaning products industry to deliver on improving public health.”

Congressional Resolution

Prior to the celebration, US Rep. Rick Allen (R-GA) introduced a congressional resolution honoring ACI’s milestone and recognizing the essential role cleaning and the US cleaning products industry play in protecting health. The resolution also recognizes the everyday value of cleaning, sanitizing and disinfecting products.

According to recent analysis, the cleaning product industry directly employs 65,000 people in the US and generates more than $88 billion in annual economic activity. 

“Those are impressive numbers, certainly. But the real value of cleaning shows up every day in ways we hardly notice—in how we care for our families and protect our food; how we protect patients; and how we keep the places where we work and live healthy,” noted Abril.

As ACI closes out this century, the organization is planning for what comes next.

“This includes anticipating the changing needs of consumers, driving innovation, advancing sound science, shaping smart public policy and bringing industry together to tackle future challenges that none of else can solve alone,” Abril told attendees.

ACI’s 2027 Convention

ACI’s annual convention is Feb. 8-12, 2027 in Orlando, FL.