Advanced Science Laboratories, Inc.

New City, NY
845-634-1500
info@advancedsl.com
www.advancedsl.com

Advanced Science Laboratories, Inc. is an FDA registered, ISO 9001:2015 certified and GCP compliant clinical testing and claim support laboratory headquartered 35 miles outside midtown Manhattan. We provide custom tailored study protocols to address any of your unique claims.

Alliance Technical Group

Monmouth Junction, NJ
732-355-1234
www.alliancetg.com 

Since 2000, Alliance Technical Group has been solving the problems of environmental management and compliance for some of the foremost companies and brands in North America. From on-site testing and monitoring to laboratory testing and regulatory strategy, it helps clients achieve their business objectives while also supporting their sustainability goals.

Ametek Brookfield 

Middleboro, MA 
508-946-6200
www.brookfieldengineering.com

With a legacy dating to 1934, Ametek Brookfield is synonymous with viscosity as the pioneer of the viscosity measurement instrument that set the global standard still recognized today. Since then, the company has been at the forefront of innovative solutions to offer an extensive range of scientific lab instrumentation including viscometers, rheometers, powder flow testers, texture analyzers, Computrac moisture analysis instruments and Jerome toxic gas analyzers. Together, they consistently meet regulatory regulations and customer application needs.

BioScreen Testing Services, Inc

Torrance, CA 
310-214-0043
www.alsglobal.com/en/bioscreen 

BioScreen Testing Services, Inc. was acquired by ALS Global, a multinational company that is a global leader in providing analytical testing, inspection, auditing and consulting services to a wide range of industries. With over 350 locations across 55 countries and on six continents, ALS provides data-driven insights and testing solutions for the Minerals, Life Sciences (including food, environmental, pharmaceutical and animal health), Energy and Industrial sectors. The company emphasizes quality, technical excellence, innovation and sustainability, focusing on leveraging science to create a safer and healthier world.

Certified Laboratories for Cosmetics, OTC & Supplements

Burbank, CA
818-845-0070
COS-inquiries@certifiedgroup.com
www.certified-laboratories.com

Certified Laboratories partners with customers to deliver innovative scientific solutions and expertise in support of the food & beverage, cosmetic, OTC, supplements and other regulated industries.

Charles River Laboratories Microbial Solutions

Charleston, SC
1-877-CRIVER-1 | 877-274-8371
askcharles@criver.com
www.criver.com

As a partner for microbial quality control, the Charles River portfolio of Celsis microbial detection and Accugenix microbial identification solutions provide the products and services needed to confirm the safety and quality of home and personal care products while maintaining an efficient and profitable manufacturing process.

Comprehensive Research Group, Inc.

Minneapolis, MN
612-781-3400
tbaubie@crginc.org
www.crginc.org

For more than 30 years, CRG has provided quality data to the world’s leading manufacturers of personal, beauty and baby care products. It is the company’s sole focus. CRG delivers superior study execution and data collection for product development efficacy and claims testing, as well as safety-in-use testing.

Consumer Product Testing Company

Fairfield, NJ
973-808-7111
sales@cptclabs.com
https://cptclabs.com

For over 49 years, CPTC has provided a full service testing laboratory for the cosmetic, personal care, medical device, pharmaceutical and specialty chemical markets. Capabilities include services in clinical safety and efficacy, microbiology, chemistry/stability and in vitro toxicological fields. It is a GMP; GLP;GCP;ISO/IEC 17025:2005 accredited laboratory with a focus on providing “conception to completion” service.

Eurofins | EAG Laboratories

San Diego, CA
877-709-9526
www.eag.com

EAG Laboratories delivers multi-disciplinary, problem-solving expertise to help its customers accelerate innovation, ensure quality and safety, and protect intellectual property.

Eurofins | CRL, Inc.

Piscataway, NJ
732-981-1616
info@crlresearchlabs.com
www.CRLResearchLabs.com

Eurofins CRL was established in 1992 and stands as an ISO 9001:2015 and GCP-compliant contract laboratory, operating at the forefront of clinical safety and efficacy testing. With headquarters in central New Jersey and additional facilities in North Carolina and Texas, Eurofins CRL is dedicated to serving the cosmetic, beauty products, personal care and pharmaceutical sectors. With a robust track record spanning more than two decades, Eurofins CRL has completed over 20,000 clinical testing studies for over 300 businesses, including some of the world’s leading consumer products companies. Its expertise extends across various domains, including: dermatology, photobiology, (SPF testing); ophthalmology; bioinstrumentation, (Efficacy and Claim Substantiation); microbiology; cosmetology; custom clinical trials and associated services.

Genemarkers, LLC 

Kalamazoo, MI 
844-220-6231
info@genemarkersllc.com
www.genemarkersllc.com

For nearly two decades, Genemarkers has been dedicated to advancing the development of safe and effective pharmaceutical and consumer products. With its team of experienced scientists and cutting-edge testing services, it has earned the trust of the world’s leading biopharmaceutical and consumer product manufacturers. The company is dedicated to integrity and innovation as it supports healthcare providers in identifying optimal medications for their patients, assisting pharmaceutical companies in developing effective therapies, and collaborating with consumer product companies to create the most impactful product formulations.

InVitro International 

Placentia, CA
invitro@invitrointl.com
www.invitrointl.com

InVitro International is a technology/customer driven provider of non-animal testing methods. IVRO tests are designed to produce eye/skin irritation & skin corrosivity OECD/GHS Regulatory level results to replace/reduce animal or human tests, IVRO offers both laboratory services and test kits.

Princeton Consumer Research

St Petersburg, FL / Raritan, NJ
727-576-7300 / 609-455-1112
info@princetonconsumer.com
www.princetonconsumer.com

PCR is a global leader in the product testing industry specializing in safety testing, efficacy testing and acceptability trials. Clients range from leading brands to small startups. They choose to work with PCR not only for its facilities around the globe, but for its expert staff.

Q Laboratories, Inc.

Cincinnati, OH 
513-471-1300
office@qlaboratories.com
www.qlaboratories.com

Q Laboratories has served the food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, health and beauty care, medical device and dietary supplement industries since 1966, offering comprehensive microbiology, analytical chemistry and research & development laboratory services. An independent laboratory, combining state-of-the-art technology with personal service and attention, Q Laboratories can provide services to meet testing and quality assurance needs. Q Laboratories is ISO/IEC 17025 Accredited, GMP/GLP Compliant, FDA Registered, a MicroVal Expert Laboratory, an AOAC Recommended Laboratory, An AFNOR Expert Laboratory, CDC ELITE Certified for Legionella Detection in Water, and Certified by the Ohio EPA for Potable Water Microbiological Analysis. A privately-owned company, Q Laboratories can provide a superior level of scientific excellence combined with unmatched customer service and responsiveness. For over 50 years, Q Laboratories has helped companies around the world produce safe, high-quality products.

RCTS, Inc.

Irving, TX
972-871-4371
barry.reece@alsglobal.com
https://rctslabs.com

RCTS provides clinical testing services to assess the safety and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and consumer products, with an emphasis on dermatological and topically applied products.

Skinobs Platforms

Aix-les-Bains, France
+33(0)7 88 17 00 14
contact@skinobs.com
www.skinobs.com

Skinobs is a referral platform for preclinical and clinical testing. It offers beauty industry professionals an intuitive and free database with all skin, nail and hair testing solutions. A comprehensive and independent tool, Skinobs offers two platforms dedicated to pre-clinicals tests (in-silico, in-tubo, in-vitro or ex-vivo) and clinical tests (in-vivo on humans) to optimize product development in terms of performance, cost, speed and innovation.

Skinobs allows R&D managers, formulators, marketing or regulatory managers, cosmetic brands and active ingredient manufacturers to identity for all claims, the best methods and measuring devices and test laboratories. This allows direct and easy contact between professionals and efficient and fast exchanges. Today, Skinobs has more than 7,000 users from 93 nationalities. 

Solar Light Company, Inc. 

Glenside, PA
215-517-8700
info@solarlight.com
www.SolarLight.com

Solar Light, the leader in Sunscreen SPF and Broadband measurement equipment for 50 years, has developed disruptive new HDRS technology that provides faster and safer measurements. Solar Light is your single source for all the equipment, instrumentation, on-site maintenance, consumables and application training needed to meet FDA and ISO standards.

Validated Claim Support, LLC

Teaneck, NJ
201-331-9300
sales@validatedcs.com
validatedcs.com

VCS is an FDA registered and inspected, privately-held clinical testing site in Teaneck, NJ. Specializing in expert grading, biophysical instrumentation, consumer perception and visual claims, we provide novel testing methods & top-notch photography to help build consumer trust. Experience the best customer service in the industry and contact VCS today.

Zurko Research

Madrid, Spain 28023
+34 91 521 15 88
info@zurkoresearch.com
www.zurkoresearch.com

Zurko Research is a leading European CRO with more than 16 years of experience, specialized in in vivo, in vitro and ex vivo testing, as well as regulatory strategy consultancy services. 

According to a “Future of Beauty” report compiled by New York City-based beauty trend tracker Spate and futures agency Future Snoops, inclusivity is another beauty trend that will take the industry by storm, along with K-Beauty’s second wave, the “biotech standard.”

Plus, Gen Alpha continues to dip its figurative fingers into the beauty space with a bevy of age-appropriate brands to help convert Sephora Kids into self-loving kids who embrace their age and eagerness to learn about beauty products, and so much more.

Check out these five trends that will be everywhere in 2026.

The Gen Alpha Frontier

Heading into 2026, Gen Alpha is beginning to overshadow Gen Z as the center of the beauty world. Gen Alpha, born between 2010 and 2024, accounts for 2 billion globally and is set to be the most ethnically diverse generation in history, analysts say. Alphas are digitally native, have disposable income and are beauty obsessed with beauty products topping back-to-school sales, Sephora serving as new hotspot for birthday parties and Alpha boys falling in love with luxury fragrance with a single whiff. Gen Alpha’s enthusiasm for the category presents a massive consumer opportunity, just as there have been missteps in reaching what analysts are calling a “vulnerable” generation. The Sephora Kids movement sparked controversy given children using anti-aging products that are damaging both physically to their young skin and to their fragile minds. In fact, their interest has sparked legislators in the US and Sweden to consider safeguards against harmful ingredients and beauty ideals.

To foster a healthy mindset among Gen Alpha, analysts encourage beauty brands to embrace the generation’s beauty wants and needs without fueling toxic, FOMO-driven hyper-consumerism and creating products that allow Alphas to be kids.

Drivers of change include creating age-appropriate ranges, enabling beauty experimentation without hassle and utilizing high-end design to make personal care inclusive and appealing.

Brands such as Pour Tous and Funny Skin are among the newly formed brands on a mission to help Gen Alpha embrace skincare exploration without damaging their delicate skin barriers or their self-esteem. Both brands feature youth-safe formulas and positive messaging.

Press-on nail brand Digi Beauty designs for joy to help young consumers easily apply and change nail art to match their moment and mood.

Non-Standard also exemplifies age-appropriate self-care routines with a range of gender inclusive, eye-catching deodorants made specifically for young athletes to be gentle and effective with scent profiles worthy of upscale products.

While brands are encouraging kids to steer away from the Sephora Kids movement, it continues to be a phenomenon with an 11.4% year-over-year growth on search. Alphas are experimenting with color cosmetics at an earlier age than ever, with searches for “kids makeup” at 1.3 million average monthly popularity. However, modeling healthy beauty habits for Alphas is showing promise. Searches like “kids sunscreen,” for example, averaged 1.3 million monthly popularity, representing a 38.0% combined year-over-year growth.

Inclusive Beauty Tech

With technology’s speedy evolution, consumers demand personalized solutions more than ever, and brands want to ensure beauty tech serves all.

Recent data shows inclusive beauty brands grew 1.5 times faster than their less inclusive competitors in 2024. However, analysts say there continues to be glaring gaps within the market. As high as 95.1% of disabled consumers say there aren’t enough accessible beauty options; a mere 4% of beauty brands cater to neurodiverse individuals. Without intentional design, there are risks for innovation, including reinforcing the same systemic exclusions.

Inclusive beauty tech seeks to close that gap by underscoring tools and technologies built with diverse needs in mind. Such brands prove that accessibility and equity are far from optional; they’re a baseline for innovation.

Estée Lauder’s AI voice-enabled makeup assistant, T3’s Aire IQ Intelligent Hair Dryer and L’Oréal’s My Aura are all considered “drivers of change” analysts say in the inclusive beauty tech movement.

The AI-voice-enabled makeup assistant supports the blind and visually impaired as the app leverages the user’s phone camera, machine learning and voice instruction to provide audio feedback and guide users on their makeup application.

The Aire IQ Intelligent Hair Dryer is revolutionizing hair tools with its Heat ID Technology that automatically adjusts heat and speed settings to a user’s hair type and texture. Plus, it features smart attachment recognition to refine heat and airflow based on styling needs.

My Aura empowers consumers with upper limb or visual disabilities to enjoy their favorite scents with ease by simply hovering any preferred body part near the sensor to release a spritz of the perfume. The innovation is a gamechanger for beauty lovers with mobility issues; as many as 1 in 6 people live with a significant disability per the World Health Organization. Experts say the mobility-accessibility of product design is  “grossly underserved” in the beauty market.

Per Spate, there has been a 1.1 million monthly popularity for “shade matching” in consumer search for inclusive shades; a 367.8% year-over-year growth in monthly popularity with “sensory friendly” solutions; and roughly 127,000 monthly views for personalized beauty.

The Convenience Marketplace

Beauty consumers’ on-the-go lifestyles and disposable income leave little room for patience; they need products that make their lives easier without sacrificing efficacy or their sanity. Analysts say jet-setting consumers seek carry-on compatible products that carry skincare benefits and can easily stash in their backpack or handbag. This news piggybacks on the fact that there are 300 million international tourists while the digital nomad community has hit 40 million worldwide, per analysts. Busy travel schedules aside, hectic daily routines spiked searches on TikTok for “my 5-9 after my 9-5 (and even my 5-9 before my 9-5).

Up to 67% of American women surveyed cite a desire for multifunctional products, an opportunity exists for products that maximize value, space and functionality fueling a global hybrid makeup market projected to grow at a CAGR of 6.1% from 2024 to 2030, analysts say.

Ease-of-use, multifunctionality and on-the-go accessories are drivers of chance in this category. Judydoll’s mini “One Box” makeup palette combines multi-use, versatile shades for base and eyes, as well as a miniature lip gloss or mascara, as the set maximizes space with a sensible slide-out row that offers additional product shades without extra bulk.

Tonal Cosmetics is dubbed the “ultimate” hybrid beauty solution for busy consumers as their hero debut product, Sun Veil’s formula, is skin-caring, weightless and tone-correcting, offering value within display-worthy packaging.

Odele and accessories designer Susan Alexandra tap into the beauty-as-accessory movement with their Touch-Ups To Go Bag Charm Set collaboration. It features a mini dry shampoo in a beaded Y2K-inspired holder, air dryer styler and hair oil. The keychain-friendly approach sparks attention and conversation through its eye-catching design.

Indeed, the chachka trend continues to charm consumers. Searches for lip gloss keychain resulted in a 404.8% combined year-over-year growth, while “lipstick case” searches boasted 55.1% combined year-over-year growth, showing the interest in beauty accessories. Mini perfume racked up 6.4 million average monthly popularity, representing 119.8% combined year-over-year growth signaling a high popularity for space-saving small sizes, analysts say. Consumer searches for travel size amounted to 1.9 million average monthly popularity with a 27.2% combined year-over-year growth, while searches for “travel beauty” resulted in 43.3% Google year-over-year growth.

K-Beauty’s Second Wave

Korea is cementing itself as the beauty capital of the world. Analysts insist Korean innovation is unparalleled. Now, K-Beauty’s “second wave” is flooding the global beauty market with cutting-edge innovations. In fact, last yeart the US imported $1.7 billion worth of cosmetics from South Korea. South Korea is expanding its reach beyond facial level skincare, as its second wave washes ashore product categories like haircare, color cosmetics, nail art, bodycare, beauty tech, wellness solutions and more. The second wave has also addressed long-standing pain points by consumers, specifically, when it comes to inclusivity. Better skin tone diversity and inclusive K-beauty haircare products have entered the market.

Launches like European-based brand Yepoda prove the possibility for Western brands to incorporate K-beauty innovation and aesthetics for their local markets. Drivers of change include K-beauty brands’ proving their innovation beyond facial skincare; preparation for Seoul-level retail and taking cues from Korea’s aesthetic tourism surge.

Cosrx entered the hair care market with its three-step line that incorporates the brand’s patented and proprietary Peptide-132 ingredient. The innovative active was developed in-house and features peptide technology to help restore and repair damaged hair for the attainment of K-beauty “glass hair.”

Korean retail giant Olive Young announced plans for its LA flagship after its “Olive Young School” booth at KCon LA 2025 drew a record 36,000 visitors. In showcasing its popularity with Western consumers, it emphasized education, interaction, personalization and abundant freebies, samples and product rewards to thereby encourage customer loyalty.

Aesthetic tourism, a form of medical tourism attracting a global clientele with its innovative cosmetic procedures and affordability, is surging in Seoul. The trend glamorizes beauty treatments. Companies like Seoul Beauty Global have popped up to help facilitate Western consumers on aesthetic vacations.

The numbers back it up. Data shows popularity for K-Beauty has become a global phenomenon, with an average score of 70.6 million monthly, representing a 40.0% combined year-over-year. Korean skincare amassed 80.6 million in average monthly popularity, with a 64.9% combined year-over-year growth that cemented Korean skincare as a major global focus. Other product categories are bolstering K-beauty’s reputation beyond skincare. Popularity for Korean makeup averaged 9.8 million monthly, demonstrating high popularity.

The Biotech Standard

Analysts say the future of sustainable beauty is being developed in a lab. The “biotech standard” redefines an industry where lab-grown ingredients, bioengineered packaging and nature-identical formulas are setting the new benchmark for performance, transparency and environmental impact.

Biotechnology is revolutionizing the beauty industry, offering effective formulas and sustainable alternatives to non-renewable resources and unsustainable packaging, analysts say. Biotech is capturing the attention of consumers as sustainability remains a high priority. Between the first half of 2023 and the first half of 2024, content mentioning biotech terms for skincare and haircare increased 69% and 169%, respectively. This showcases growing consumer interest in the category.

Drivers of change include leveraging biotech ingredients to reduce non-renewable resource use; building a more resilient and ethical supply chain with biotech innovations; and investing in bio-based materials to eliminate the need of microplastics.

Biotech beauty utilizes biotech-derived ingredients to power a range of cosmetic products to reduce the use of non-renewable resources. They design ingredients from precision fermentation to offer high-performance results while ensuring that products are ethical and environmentally friendly.

Debut created a new plant cell biotechnology platform that creates fragrance ingredients without the need of traditional cultivation. Its first ingredient, Orris, is a rare perfume component that can now be replicated in a lab, solving common challenges within the supply chain, analysts say.

Danish biotech brand Cellugy is a biofabricated cellulose platform designed to replace fossil-derived ingredients like carbomers and acrylates, and eliminate microplastics within the personal care industry.

Biotechnology is on the rise as education around the topic increases, and biotech experiences 10.0% year-over-year growth in popularity. Sustainability remains a key consideration for consumers when purchasing beauty products as the term “sustainable beauty” gains 2.0 million average weekly views and experiences 26.9% year-over-year growth in views. Bio-based skincare booms with consumer interest for the category is growing.

Experts include Craig R. Weiss, president, Consumer Product Testing Company; Tracey Baubie, president and CEO, Comprehensive Research Group; W. Richard Ulmer, chairman and CEO, InVitro International; and Jane Tervooren, co-founder and director, Validated Claim Support.

Responses are listed in alphabetical order by company. 

HAPPI: What current issues are impacting testing services in beauty and personal care and hom care? 

Craig Weiss:The issues impacting our business are both economic and regulatory. With the advent of new tariffs and the uncertainty they have brought, we are seeing many companies being more selective in ingredient selection and which products they want to import or export. The state chemical bans/limitations enacted and proposed greatly impacted our analytical chemistry department. Clients that never worried about heavy metal, residual solvent, nitrosamines and other impurities, are playing catch-up to comply with these limits and bans. Finally, there is MoCRA, many companies are trying to make sure their product safety is substantiated and are waiting for more requirements to be announced.  

Tracey Baubie: In 2025, expectations for transformative changes in testing services due to the Modernization of Cosmetic Regulation Act (MoCRA) have not materialized. MoCRA aimed to bolster the FDA’s authority over cosmetic safety through new regulatory measures like enhanced registration, labeling and adverse event reporting requirements. However, the industry is instead grappling with significant challenges stemming from economic instability. This instability is primarily driven by rising inflation and variable US tariff policies on imports. For example, tariffs on Chinese imports fluctuated greatly, ranging from 10% to as high as 200%, forcing companies to continually reevaluate their sourcing, packaging and pricing strategies.

Volatile inflation led to increased energy and raw material costs, affecting companies of all sizes. Larger companies may leverage their purchasing power better than smaller or startup businesses. Consequently, manufacturers face tough decisions about whether to absorb these costs, raise consumer prices or adopt a combined approach. This economic turmoil has caused a notable deceleration in testing services in early 2025, as industry leaders work through strategy decisions amid uncertainties, balancing the drive for innovation with the constraints of current market challenges. Nevertheless, as we move into the fourth quarter, some manufacturers are beginning to find their footing and are keen to push forward with new innovations despite these uncertainties.

W. Richard Ulmer: InVitro International has seen newer “issues” impacting the safety testing services business affecting cosmetics, personal and home cleaning/care products in 2025. They’ve been brought on by increased attention from US Government Agencies. FDA attention to “safety” issues has expanded to include more than labeling (claims) into areas such as shelf life/expiration dating and more. The Consumer Product Safety Commission recently brought attention to concerns about skin corrosivity associated with adhesives and certain paint components. These concerns from the regulatory world bring customers’ manufacturing as well as formulation areas into our testing world in greater numbers.

Jane Tervooren: One of the biggest challenges testing services face right now is the constant pressure to keep up with new product trends. In beauty and personal care especially, consumers chase after “clean,” “natural” and “sustainable” products; brands are reformulating constantly to meet demand. This means labs are scrambling to validate new ingredients, run additional safety and stability tests and adapt to ever-changing regulatory definitions—what counts as “clean” in one market might not fly in another. It’s a lot of moving parts, and testing services are feeling the squeeze.

Another issue is the tightening of global regulations. Whether it’s stricter EU cosmetics rules, ingredient bans in California, or new requirements in Asian markets, testing labs must stay on top of a constantly shifting legal landscape. This isn’t just about compliance—it affects everything from turnaround times to the types of certifications brands want on their labels. Plus, testing services need to invest in new equipment or expertise just to meet these standards, which drives costs up and slows things down.

Lastly, there’s the rise of fast innovation and “instant” product launches thanks to social media. TikTok trends can make a product go viral overnight, and suddenly brands need it tested, certified and on shelves yesterday. But real testing—especially for things like skin sensitivity or product safety—takes time. Labs are pushed to do more, faster and cheaper, without cutting corners. It’s creating real tension between speed-to-market and maintaining high testing standards, and the industry hasn’t quite figured out how to balance the two just yet. At VCS we will likely pass on a study opportunity if we feel that the timing is unreasonable or the quality of the study will be negatively affected by any number of factors.

HAPPI: What are some requests your company received regarding testing over the past year? 

Craig Weiss: Requests for clinical and invitro safety studies continue to be received to comply with the need for safety substantiation to comply with MoCRA. We also are seeing increases in microbiology testing due to greater amounts of contaminations because of the limiting of usable preservatives. The limiting/banning of chemicals and the associated penalties have seen an increase of testing for residual impurities and heavy metals. 

Tracey Baubie: Over the past year, there has been a surge in the demand for product development aimed at “specialized” subject populations. Historically, research focused more on generalized populations, such as women aged 18-65, participating in studies targeting general concerns like fine lines and wrinkles. However, sponsoring companies are increasingly interested in very specific subject populations, such as individuals with unique physical attributes related to hair, skin, medical conditions or medication use.

I believe this shift is driven by consumer demands for products that cater to their “unique” or “individual” needs. This demand for an increasingly unique subject population, necessarily results in higher recruitment and compensation costs.  

Moreover, we see a growing trend toward “at-home” data collection. Gone are the days when participants were simply required to apply products and maintain a printed diary. Now, subjects are expected to engage in comprehensive in-home data collection processes, including taking images, completing online questionnaires and performing non-invasive instrument measurements at multiple time points throughout a study. While this presents certain challenges, technological advancements are likely to further expand the scope of participants’ at-home tasks in the future.

Richard Ulmer: In 2025, InVitro International had a noteworthy increase in “large dollar volume” suspensions of product in warehouses awaiting “clearance” to ship; in other words, suspected “dangerous goods.” Big name shippers suspected they were involved with mislabeled merchandise from a consumer “danger” point of view. Our ability to deliver accurate test results quickly was called upon frequently.

Jane Tervooren: There’s been a huge surge in interest around microbiome analysis in clinical studies lately, and honestly, it makes a lot of sense. Focusing on the skin microbiome is a hot topic in clinical studies for some solid reasons. First off, the skin is our largest organ and acts as the first line of defense against the outside world. The microbes living on it—bacteria, fungi, even viruses—help maintain that barrier and keep it functioning properly. So when something goes wrong, like in conditions such as acne, eczema or psoriasis, researchers increasingly look at the skin microbiome to understand if, or how, it’s playing a role.

Another reason there are so many requests for skin microbiome analysis is that it’s non-invasive. You don’t need blood draws or biopsies—you can just swab the skin. That makes it relatively easy to include in a clinical trial without scaring off participants. Plus, with all the buzz around microbiome-targeted skincare and treatments, there’s a real push to connect specific microbes with skin health outcomes. Clinical studies want to see if these connections are legit or just hype, and skin swabs offer a relatively low-cost way to get meaningful data.

Finally, the skin microbiome is super dynamic. It changes based on age, environment, hygiene, skincare products — even your stress levels. That makes it a fascinating area of study because it gives researchers a chance to explore how lifestyle and environment impact health at the microbial level. The more we learn, the more it seems like healthy skin isn’t just about what you put on it, but also about maintaining a balanced and resilient community of microbes living on it. 

HAPPI: Tell us about recent developments at your company and what’s next for 2026? 

Craig Weiss:We recently invested in new instrumentation to test for PFAS, nitrosamines and to comply with the new ISO sunscreen testing. 

Tracey Baubie:To address increasing recruitment costs, particularly for specialized subject populations, our company is leveraging technology to enhance its process of finding, screening and scheduling subject participants. Although this approach requires significant initial investments, we are already witnessing positive outcomes from these new recruitment strategies. These improvements aim to meet the rising demand for study designs that are specifically tailored to distinct subject populations. Looking ahead to 2026, we are focused on further optimizing these technologies to better support our recruitment efforts and accommodate evolving industry needs.

Richard Ulmer: During the past year, InVitro International’s board of directors announced the company was creating a new strategic positioning in its 40th year. The company will remain publicly owned (IVRO, OTCQB), but will be announcing a new strategic direction within the coming year. Our IVRO team is very excited about it.

Jane Tervooren: We anticipate receiving ISO 9001:2015 by year-end. We’re going for ISO certification because we want to continue to improve how we do things as a company. It’s not just about getting a fancy certificate to hang on the wall—it’s about building better systems, improving how we work day-to-day and making sure our customers consistently get quality service. 

Another big reason is trust. ISO 9001 is internationally recognized. Having it shows that we take quality seriously and that we’re committed to continuous improvement. It gives our current and future clients extra confidence in us, and it helps open doors to bigger opportunities—including working with clients who require ISO-certified partners. So really, it’s about growth, reputation and making sure we’re always doing our best work.

Also, keeping up with the latest in bioinstrumentation is a game-changer for us—it’s not just about having the coolest gadgets, it’s about giving our clients real, measurable results. Newer tools are faster, more accurate and often less invasive, which means we can provide better diagnostics, track progress more effectively and ultimately deliver even better outcomes. Staying on the cutting edge also shows our clients that we’re serious about their results and that we invest in the best to support them.

Finally, we’ve always taken pride in our before and after photography; that’s something that sets us apart from the pack. It’s one thing to talk about results—it’s another to show them in clear, consistent, high-quality images. Compelling, visual proof builds trust, shows the impact of our work and sets a standard in the industry. We’ve built our reputation on that level of transparency and attention to detail, and we’re committed to keeping it that way.

Combining attention to quality systems, cutting-edge bioinstrumentation with the best photography in the game means we’re offering the full package—objective data and undeniable visuals. It’s about raising the bar, not just meeting expectations. As we grow and evolve, our goal is to make sure every client knows they’re getting the best tools, the best care and the best proof of progress, all in one place.

To find a testing partner, click here.

Andrea Mondoni, general manager, Beiersdorf North America, may be based in Stamford Connecticut, but the new GM knows plenty about consumer preferences around the world. As GM, he is responsible for overseeing all product, operations and roughly 500 employees in the US and Canada. The Milan native joined Beiersdorf out of university in 2001. His early career took him to Germany, back to Italy, over to Reckitt, and back to Beiersdorf—this time in Latin America. In 2010, he returned to Italy, before packing his bags for Spain where he served as country manager in 2014. In 2017, he joined Beiersdorf Mexico as country manager and returned to Milan to serve as general manager, Southern Europe. Last year, the globe-trotting Mondoni was appointed general manager, North America. He’s relying on those years of learning to expand Beiersdorf in the US and Canada.

“Consumers have itchy, dry skin in the US, Asia and Europe,” he explained. “Dermatologists approach skin conditions in the same way. There are a lot of commonalities. That’s how we think about Eucerin and Aquaphor.”

The Aquaphor Generation?

Old marketing executives are familiar with the Pepsi Generation. Mondoni says Beiersdorf’s US team is creating a similar following with Aquaphor. They’re connecting the brand with the heads and hearts of Gen Z—those born between the mid-1990s to the early 2010s. It’s a generation born to use social media.

“The social media habits in the US are more advanced than those in southern Europe and Latin America,” noted Mondoni. “We have the technology to launch a brand or SKU or any innovation via the social network.”

Social media is just one area Mondoni sees an opportunity for him to learn from his team and work together to become more successful.

“This is what I value most. Find customer commonalities, yet behave differently to speak directly and effectively to US consumers.”

Win with Care & with Nivea

Nivea is the best-selling skincare brand in the world. The lineup includes more than 50 products and is available in more than 170 countries around the world. Mondoni said Beiersdorf has a great opportunity to connect with US in age and ethnicity. 

“With Nivea, we are well established in the Hispanic population in Latin America and the US,” asserted Mondoni. 

With the No. 1 skincare brand in the world, Beiersdorf knows all about winning. Beyond products and geographies, the company’s Win with Care strategy is based on the purpose, vision and aspiration as a global company. Win with Care’s Vision is to be the best skincare company in the world. Delight customers with exceptional solutions for their skin in order to meet its customers where they are in strategic markets, categories and segments. At the same time, Beiersdorf insists it cares beyond skin, by developing high-performing teams that drive business and its future in skincare. 

“People are at the center of everything we do, whether that’s consumers, retailers or employees,” insisted Mondoni. “We want to become the best skincare company in the world; not the most profitable, or any other KPI. We want to achieve it by leveraging Win with Care.”

Win with Care includes three strategies. One, be the undisputed authority in skincare. Beiersdorf was founded in1882 by pharmacist Paul Carl Beiersdorf. He teamed with Dr. Paul Gerson Unna to create coated plaster, Beiersdorf’s first product. Later, they invented modern skincare with the creation of a stable water-in-oil emulsion—Nivea. 

“We want to ensure our brands are even more relevant and be ready for the next 100 years,” said Mondoni.

The second strategy involves a consumer-facing omnipresence. Beiersdorf is committed serving the consumer wherever they are, according to Mondoni. That means filling white spaces, capturing new channel opportunities and following consumers wherever they go.

“Our executive board is looking at acquisitions,” he added.

Finally, the third pillar involves performance with purpose. It calls for more discipline regarding where Beiersdorf competes, ROI, climate and inclusivity. 

“This is critical to talking the talk, winning with our people, reskilling and upskilling,” said Mondoni. “Companies can have the best strategy, but people and their passion make the difference.”

A People Person

Mondoni describes his leadership as inclusive. 

“Before Covid, I always treated people like I wanted to be treated. Now, I treat others as they want to be treated,” he explained. “Each person is unique. Each carries his or her own backpack of concerns. I want to make sure that everyone feels secure to perform their best.”

To get them there, Beiersdorf has a no-tie, three-day in-office policy. Employees can choose whatever days they want to be in-office, but there are no plans to go fully remote, since Mondoni believes a work/life balance maintains the company’s DNA.

“The success of the company is through its people, but only when they are working together and building upon each other through their different experiences,” he asserted.

Mondoni expressed concern about younger generations, those under 40 and 30, those who have spent part of their careers working remotely. He worries they will miss out on development opportunities, learning from coworkers.

“The younger generations need opportunities to develop and they develop when they have the opportunity to observe,” insisted Mondoni. “They must be included in brainstorming sessions. Yes, use Zoom, but maturity comes from the vibe in the office.”

A Conductor, Not a Babysitter

The Beiersdorf staff may be back in the office, but employees are not restricted by leadership. In the fast-paced personal care industry, Beiersdorf holds weekly meetings to run through dashboards to ensure goals are met.

“We always start with people. We always ask if we can do anything to assist. Then we move into the business topic,” explained Mondoni. “For me, it’s not control. The more you control, the more you demoralize. I am a conductor. I must make sure everyone is in tune. If not, I adjust and move forward.”

To maintain an edge in an increasingly competitive market, takes courage. Mondoni encourages everyone on his team to take calculated risks and he acquiesces to better ideas.

“My job is to create a safety net. We must be courageous to act. Fear is our worst enemy,” he explained. “I try to transform fear into positive energy to try new things.”

A Pivotal Moment for Beiersdorf & Beauty

From the beginning science has been at the heart of Beiersdorf’s activities. The company was founded on March 28, 1882. That’s the date Paul Beiersdorf and Dermatologist Paul Gerson Unna developed a process to manufacture medical plasters and registered a patent. More than 140 years later, Mondoni said Beiersdorf is well-positioned to take advantage of the growing interest in health and beauty.

“We are in a pivotal moment with an aging population and the younger generations engaging in wellness,” he noted. “It gives us the confidence and the energy that all our businesses will continue to develop.”

For Beiersdorf and many competitors, the next frontier focuses on longevity and personalization. Mondoni said his company has the expertise and technology to take advantage of both movements, as Beiersdorf is an expert in skincare.

“This is fundamental to Beiersdorf and how we remain relevant across age groups. With brands like Eucerin and Aquaphor, we deliver products that are effective for longevity and solve skin conditions.”

And Beiersdorf researchers take all the time they need to create next generation skincare formulas. For example, the Eucerin Anti-Pigment line was in development for 10 years. During that time, Beiersdorf researchers tested 50,000 ingredients.

Eucerin’s new anti-pigment line stops melanin production. All formulas in the line contain Thiamidol. Beiersdorf holds the patent for Thiamidol until 2032. The line includes day cream, night cream, dual serum and spot corrector to address hyperpigmentation. According to Beiersdorf, with regular use, pigment spots are reduced by 75%. Thiamidol is a testament to Beiersdorf heritage and its future, according to Mondondi.

“Since our founding, we have been focused on skincare,” he concluded. “We know skin best.”

Affordability Is Key

According to Euromonitor International, 2024 European suncare sales rose 7% to $25.7 billion. Euromonitor predicts the market will grow 4.8% this year to $26.9 billion. 

“Affordability is key, especially in price sensitive markets,” comments Connor Spicer, research consultant, Euromonitor International. “Consumers seek value without compromising on quality.” 

The European market leaders are Germany, $4.8 billion; UK, $4.0 billion; France, $3.3 billion and Italy, $2.6 billion. Affordability remains top of mind for many European consumers, but they’re not skimping on stronger protection against intense sun exposure. As summers heat up, there has been increased demand for convenient and varied sunscreen formats. 

“Consumers increasingly prioritize daily use, stronger protection and multifunctional innovative products that align with their health and lifestyle needs,” states Spicer. “In Slovenia, transparent sprays and powders are becoming popular for their ease of use and adaptability to different lifestyles.” 

The advantage of powder formulations is that they are extremely lightweight and easy to apply, especially over makeup. They also help protect areas of the skin which are hard to protect using traditional formulations, such as the scalp. For example, Dutch brand Sunday Brush SPF50 is a natural mineral sunscreen powder in a self-dispensing brush that comes in different shades for different skin tones. It reportedly works instantly. 

Sophisticated Ingredients

Unlike skincare, where extensive routines are commonplace, European consumers tend to use a single product offering several suncare and skincare benefits. 

“There is a move toward ingredients that can be more easily incorporated into multifunctional products and innovations that contribute to a smoother texture and are more easily spread, as well as reef-safe claims,” comments Simon Pitman, founder and expert in communications for beauty, food and natural products, Pitman Comms. 

Pitman highlights new generation UV filters such as L’Oreal’s Mexoryl 400 which extends protection into the ultra-long UVA spectrum, while modern mineral dispersions like Croda’s Solaveil MicNo allow zinc oxide to deliver broad-spectrum protection without the white cast. 

“Both ingredients are considered to be reef-safe,” he points out. 

Pitman notes that new ingredients are helping to open and broaden the suncare category with new product formulations and formats. 

“Tinted SPFs with iron oxides address both UVA/UVB and visible light protection while doubling as complexion enhancers,” says Pitman. “Over makeup mists, sticks and compact formats make reapplication realistic in everyday life, while hybrid anti-aging day creams with SPF and SPF foundations show how suncare is embedding itself into skincare and color cosmetics routines.” 

An example of this trend is Spanish brand Heliocare 360 Mineral Tolerance Fluid, a tinted mineral SPF. Sunscreen textures improved, too. They enable brands to introduce a range of product formats. 

“In Europe, we are seeing an increasing number of products being launched as light fluids and serums which can be worn under makeup,” points out Pitman. 

A popular brand with European consumers is L’Oreal-owned La Roche Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50, featuring a patented filtering system. Mexoplex targets UVA rays in an SPF50+ formulation. Another French brand featuring a light fluid in its range is Nuxe Light Fluid High Protection SPF50 for the face. Its light texture is immediately absorbed leaving no white film on the skin. 

Health & Wellness

“Consumers seek products that do more than just protect the skin. They want it to deliver extra functional skin benefits as skin health and wellness becomes a key priority,” comments Theresa Yee, beauty trend forecaster. 

Murad’s Superactive Moisturizer SPF is available in four 3-in-1 formats that deliver different functions including brightening, wrinkle-fighting, hydrating and mattifying, in an SPF50 formulation. Described as a multi-tasking SPF moisturizer, it is designed to minimize the steps in a skincare routine and acts as a makeup primer. Meanwhile, Dior Prestige Le Protecteur UV Jeunesse et Lumiere SPF50 works as a protective shield against UV and helps repair photoaging damage. It is infused with white rosapeptide to provide anti-aging and soothing benefits. 

Microbiome-Friendly Suncare

New ingredient technologies are opening the door for microbiome-friendly sunscreen products. One of them, pioneered by Sun Matters, a new German brand that launched in April 2025, claims to be the world’s first certified microbiome-friendly sunscreen. The line of products includes a serum, serum stick and a skin supplement. 

The formulation features Photobiome, a groundbreaking antioxidant said to enhance the skin’s ability to defend itself against sun-induced stress, along with hyaluronic acid and Ectoin for deep hydration and to strengthen the skin barrier. The brand’s USP is skin-identical and barrier-friendly ingredients that are designed to support a healthy barrier, boost resilience and enhance long-term skin comfort. 

Suncare Supplements

“Another interesting area that’s gaining momentum, although it’s not completely new, is ingestible suncare products,” states Yee. 

Brands like Heliocare include 360 Capsules, said to provide protection against UVA, UVB, visible light and infrared-A. Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Sun Skin takes a different approach. It is a supplement designed to help prepare the skin for sun exposure while protecting the skin against sun allergies, heat rashes and prickly heat. 

Long-term shifts in climate change will continue to bring hotter and longer summers, which will continue to boost consumer awareness of the need for effective sun protection. New technologies will fuel this trend and open the door to user-friendly formats. Meanwhile, Yee predicts that the microbiome beauty trend will result in more sunscreen formulations with skin barrier boosting ingredients appealing to wellness-focused beauty consumers.

Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
+44 1865 764918
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry. 

Upon reading the paper, I did not hesitate in claiming that this publication was a “miracle” insofar as, as I wrote in September, “dermatologists across the country have decided to discuss the activity of cosmetics. Once thought of as an oxymoron…cosmetic activity does exist and the interest shown by those dermatologists will encourage scientists committed to cosmetic science, to persevere in their endeavor”. I also wrote that “the results reported by Alvarez and coworkers are just a beginning. They are not complete and they provide results consistent with a medical-dermatological mindset.”

Post-Miracle

Perhaps the most important thing to do, after a “miracle” has been recognized, is to understand the methodology of the work performed and to find its boundaries. An undefined group of scientists performed a literature search on papers published between 1990 and 2020. Their goal was to identify ingredients intended for the treatment of those seven skin concerns. A long list of ingredients (318) was made that was reviewed by an expert panel of 17 cosmetic dermatologists. 

As written in the Methods section of the paper by Alvarez and coworkers, these dermatologists were asked “to identify the ingredients that they believed were most useful”. But in the Introduction of that same paper it is written that “the study was aimed at determining which generic topical ingredients are most frequently recommended by experts in cosmetic dermatology for common dermatologic skin concerns.”  

This ambiguity ( most useful versus most frequently recommended) must not be overlooked if we try and understand some unexpected results in the paper by Alvarez and coworkers. 

The 17 dermatologists reduced this list to 83 and a group of 62 dermatologists reviewed this list and, if necessary, suggested other ingredients. Ultimately they ended up with a list of 23 ingredients. It included one additional ingredient (ceramide) that was not present in the first list of 83. 

This list of 23 was detailed in this column last month. As I pointed out, the 23 ingredients that were consensually recognized as useful (or active or frequently recommended), are not surprising; they are all well known to good cosmetic chemists and marketing executives in the skincare industry. What one could find surprising is that some active ingredients have not been recognized (or reported) as such in the paper by Alvarez and coworkers, in spite of published evidence.

More Work Needed

To make it so that the “miracle” becomes fruitful, what is needed is to point out those active ingredients that might have escaped the attention of dermatologists. This means that there is much work left to do, to bring to light the existence of other active ingredients and enlarge the panoply of the raw materials that can be used with the reasonable expectation of formulating active concoctions. It may even require branching out into areas other than the seven skin concerns considered by the paper by Alvarez and coworkers.

I will try and provide some references relative to the cosmetically interesting activity of some natural ingredients.

Anti-Inflammatories 

Several anti-inflammatory agents are used in cosmetic products. One could surmise that the dermatologists establishing the list of 318 did not consider anti-inflammatory agents since the word “anti-inflammatory” is a word banished from the cosmetic world. Yet, pseudopterosins from the Sea Whip are excellent anti-inflammatory agents^2,3,4

In the late 1990 and early 2000 a Sea Whip extract was successfully used in a product incredibly active for instance, against post-UV erythema. I note it because that formula is no longer on the market. It was called Exceptionally Sooting Lotion for Upset Skin and was marketed by Clinique. Paradoxically, today’s Clinique analog product is called Exceptionally Soothing Cream for Upset Skin Anti-Itch. It does not contain the Sea Whip extract but it does contain hydrocortisone acetate… an ingredient that did not reach consensus among the dermatologists and does not appear in the list of the 23 most useful or most frequently recommended ingredients.

Another natural anti-inflammatory agent is Melatonin. Several clinical studies were performed analyzing the effect of topically applied melatonin on human skin before exposure to radiation such as UV, sunlight and high-energy beams.⁵ They were all characterized by an appropriate design (randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled). The study results strongly support the clinical efficacy of melatonin in preventing or reducing skin damage such as dermatitis, erythema and sunburn.

The Power of Vitamins

Another natural product that has not been considered in the paper by Alvarez and coworkers is vitamin E. Yet, vitamin E in nanocapsules was formulated in Lancôme’s Primordial in the late 1990s and was successfully tested in clinical trials. The presence of vitamin E on human skin exposed to UV radiation protects the skin against bleb formation in keratinocytes and maintains the morphology of the epidermis that is otherwise remarkably affected by solar radiation.^6,7

A very effective agent against itch is Zanthalene, the tradename for an extract of Zanthoxylum bungeanum. To my knowledge, the only published material consists of reviews of the plant’s therapeutical activities in the frame of Traditional Chinese Medicine without presenting controlled clinical data. I urge the suppliers of Zanthalene to spend the necessary time and publish solid clinical data on its anti-itch effects, and possibly other effects.

As far as other active ingredients are concerned, we know that Bakuchiol outperforms Retinol.^8,9 It should be taken into consideration as an active ingredient, since retinoids have been consensually considered useful as reported by Alvarez and coworkers. We also know that Acetyl Zingerone is of extreme utility in sunscreens because of its capability of neutralizing singlet Oxygen, the most harmful of the UV-induced Reactive Oxygen Species.¹⁰

I encourage the distributors of interesting raw materials to provide the dermatological community with solid, controlled clinical data and with pertinent publications demonstrating the activity and the usefulness of their raw materials in skincare.

References

1. Alvarez GV et al Skin care ingredients recommended by cosmetic dermatologists: a Delphi consensus study. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. (2025) In the press.
2. Look SA et al (1986) The pseudopterosins: Anti-inflammatory and analgesic natural products from the sea whip Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae. Proc Natl Acad Sci 83 : 6238-6240
3. Correa H et al Anti-inflammatory effects of the gorgonian Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae collected at the Islands of Providencia and San Andres (SW Caribbean). J. Inflamm. 6 , 5 (2009)  https://doi.org/10.1186/1476-9255-6-5
4. Ata A Identification of anti-inflammatory diterpenes from the marine gorgonian Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae Tetrahedron (2003) 59 : 4215-4222
5. Greco G et al Clinical Studies using topical melatonin.  Int J Mol Sci. 2024 May 9;25(10):5167. doi: 10.3390/ijms25105167
6. Giacomoni, PU et al UV-induced ultrastructural modifications of keratinocytes in human epidermis: protection by vitamin E. J. Invest. Dermatol. (1996) 107 657
7. Giacomoni PU et al Morphological alterations and cell blebbing in UV-irradiated human epidermis. Arch. Dermatol. Res. (1998)  290 : 163-166
8. Dhaliwal et al (2019) Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging. British Journal of Dermatology 180, pp289–296
9. Bluemke et al (2022) Multidirectional activity of Bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing – Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. Int J Cosmet Sci 44 : 377-393
10. Meyer TA, et al Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging. Antioxidants (Basel). 2023 12 :1168.

Paolo Giacomoni, PhD
Insight Analysis Consulting
paologiac@gmail.com
516-769-6904

Paolo Giacomoni acts as an independent consultant to the skin care industry. He served as Executive Director of Research at Estée Lauder and was Head of the Department of Biology with L’Oréal. He has built a record of achievements through research on DNA damage and metabolic impairment induced by UV radiation as well as on the positive effects of vitamins and antioxidants. He has authored more than 100 peer-reviewed publications and has more than 20 patents. He is presently Head of R&D with L.RAPHAEL—The science of beauty—Geneva, Switzerland .

—Baby on Board

Dear Baby:

As a new mother, I understand the desire to ascertain the safety of an ingredient (and product) for pregnant women. Unfortunately, suppliers cannot provide this information as safety testing of cosmetic products, ingredients and even medical drugs, on pregnant humans is not ethical and not permitted. Therefore, very little safety data exists.

Some raw materials have animal studies on rats, mice and fish. However, for your ingredient supplier to furnish a definitive statement on the ingredient’s suitability for the little tummy tot, human data is generally required. Toxicologists can make theoretical assessments based on industry knowledge and historical usage, so this is what we typically rely on today. Unfortunately, this is not also straightforward.

Even in the revered EU SCCS opinions, specific safety recommendations are not made with pregnancy in mind. For example, we know that retinol has safety considerations as a derivative of Vitamin A. Vitamin A is toxic at certain doses and is therefore particularly toxic to fetuses. Yet, there is no specific restriction in the SCCS opinion explicitly stating any retinol-containing products should not be used on pregnant women. 

An ingredient also doesn’t tell the full story. Ingredients aren’t used at 100% in products. They’re formulated at varying percentages, and they’re used in many different product types. These product types are presumably used on different parts of the body with different dose applications—for example, a face cream differs from a body lotion in that the application sites are distinct parts of the body, and more body lotion is applied by the consumer in one application. Different ingredients could also be present in the formulation that change the way the ingredient in question interacts with skin. Penetration enhancers, anyone?

As you can see, it’s not so easy for an ingredient supplier to provide pregnancy safety information that’s meaningful to the consumer. The dose (and delivery) makes the poison! The best thing your company can do is employ a licensed toxicologist to review your formulations with pregnant women as the end user in mind.

—Bond Builder

Dear Bond:

When I entered the industry in 2010, I recall Dupont pushing glycolic acid for use in haircare. As a callow chemist, I simply dismissed the effect of acids on hair as working by closing the cuticle, rendering the hair shiny and healthy looking. I didn’t give it much additional thought as acidifying conditioners was a decades-old concept. Dr. Ron DiSalvo once opined that hairdressers added citric acid to conditioners to lower the pH, creating new bonds in hair. Little did the industry know that glycolic acid does so much more, and it’s not exfoliating off loose cuticles!

 Glycolic acid is the lowest molecular weight alpha hydroxy acid and can penetrate hair, reaching the cell membrane complex. It doesn’t need a super low pH to achieve this, around pH 4 is perfectly acceptable, and in fact, desirable. Applying too low a pH to the hair increases hair damage, leaving hair too brittle and stiff.

 What does glycolic acid do once it penetrates hair? It modifies hair’s adsorption isotherm, essentially altering how water binds to hair. When water is displaced, hair is generally stronger and more flexible. This impact is consistent in the effect of glycolic acid on hair. Just 5% glycolic acid increases hair’s elasticity and improves dry combing. It also increases the denaturation temperature of keratin, imparting thermal protective effects. This is regardless of hair ethnicity and hair health.

 Trefor Evans, a brilliant hair scientist retired from TRI Princeton, conducted extensive research in this area. He published much literature, albeit on citric acid and its impact on hair.¹ The same would apply to glycolic acid. I’ve had the pleasure of collaborating with Trefor on acids in hair. It’s really quite an interesting area with real effects on hair, not marketing baloney.

 So, no! glycolic acid isn’t exfoliating hair, like it would skin. Its mechanism is far more sophisticated.

—Cannes Do

Dear Cannes:

Unfortunately, Baby Cosmetic Chemist kept me from attending the premier global event for research in the cosmetic sciences. I did have boots on the ground, gathering information on interesting posters and presentations for me, but it’s not the same as being in person, being able to ask questions and speak to other scientific leaders. For now, I must set my sights on other industry events to hold me over until IFSCC 2026.

While not a research-driven event, California Suppliers’ Day is later this month, and I always enjoy seeing industry colleagues and getting a refresher on the incredible ingredients they sell. The Simply Formulas team will have a booth this year, but I do plan to step away to attend some of the talks. This year, IBA is hosting some of the educational content; as state regulations gain momentum, this will be a nice way to stay informed.

I’ll also be at SCC79, the National SCC’s educational symposium. I really enjoy the variety of educational talks and hope there are some on hair and scalp this year. I also appreciate the poster section, where there is an opportunity to meet students from the universities who are doing research in cosmetic science.  

—Sir Factant

Dear Sir:

Operating under the assumption you’re asking about performance a consumer would notice, and the specifications of the two surfactants are the same, the answer is no.

In my prior career, we (for some reason) had one salon shampoo that used a 3-mole SLES, while the rest of our formulas used a 2-mole SLES. To consolidate our superfluity of coded ingredients, we just swapped them out, 1:1, keeping percent activity in mind. No one noticed, and the side-by-side stabilities must have been on par as we moved forward with the change. Of course, there was concern that consumers would find the product more irritating (the higher the degree of ethoxylation, the less irritating, and we were going to less ethoxylation) but I don’t recall any complaints in this area.

I see a lot more 2-mole SLES available than 3-mole, so from a supply and pricing perspective, I would consider using 2-mole for multiple suppliers who can provide material and cost-compete. Additionally, the higher the degree of ethoxylation, the more 1,4-dioxane may be present in the final product; this impurity is strictly regulated at the state level, and plaintiff’s attorneys do test. You’ll not only want to test upon initial production, but at the end of your accelerated stability.

If you’re already using one of these surfactants and are thinking of switching to the other, there are considerations to keep in mind as good practice. Validate your formulation to ensure that pH, viscosity, stability and preservative efficacy remain the same, as the ethoxylation may play a role. If RIPT or tear-free testing was done, it may need to be reconducted, depending on which direction you’re shifting.