Happy Alaskan

Quebec, Canada: 400 Years of Diversity

2009-07-08T00:34:00.007-08:00

In 1998 and 1999 I attended McGill University in the province of Quebec, Canada. While there I took one of the coldest excursions in my life to Quebec (City) in December. My parents joined me on the return visit and I am certain their joie de vivre benefited from the warmer weather found in spring!

A technical note - I use the word Quebec to reference the city, not the province for the rest of this post. There is no such place as "Quebec City" except to the Anglophones of the world. Without turning this into a grammar lesson, Francophones suffer no such issue with this word because the city of Quebec and the province of Quebec are treated different in the local tongue.

If you get one idea out of this post, remember that Quebec is not French. While the majority language spoken is French, and before 1759 the prevailing power was the French, modern Quebec is too unique for this old label. Assuming you are reading this from the US, imagine a foreigner describing Virginia as being very English! It is true that the UK owned Virginia in the early 18th century and that most people still speak the English language, but how hard would you laugh if this fictional foreigner constantly tried to tie your culture to that they found in England? Such is the great misunderstanding of Quebec.

First there were the "first nations," or Iroquois Indians, whose culture coexists with that of the Quebecois to this day. Leaping forward, Jacques Cartier passes by in the 1500's. Next the French sailor Samuel de Champlain arrived and founded what we now know as Quebec... 401 years ago this week. This makes Quebec the oldest fortified city in North America and among the first European settlements in the new world. This period of French domination left its language, the Catholic religion and legal system each of which largely survive until today.

In 1759, a key 15-minute battle exactly here in Quebec marks the end of French domination and the beginning of the English period in Quebec. On the ramparts known as the "Plains of Abraham" the fortifications of Quebec were overrun during the night in a battle for which both sides had spent months preparing. With the help of Scots who spoke perfect French, the English flanked the fort and scaled the cliffs with maneuver the French never considered. It is impossible to speculate accurately what consequences a French victory here would have had on modern society. But Quebec is the reminder that nothing is predestined. That we would forever speak English as opposed to French, or perhaps Spanish, was anything but certain in the 1700's.

Then in 1867, after an earlier failed invasion by the American Army, a confederation of British colonies started the Canadian period for Quebec. Since then, a pluralist society of anglophones, francophones and immigrants have been evolving into a distinct society in Quebec. Waves of English speaking businessmen have clashed with French speaking laborers. Federal and provincial policies have attempted to create one country while acknowledging two distinct nations. Separatists have proposed, and consistently lost, the argument that Quebec should stand alone as a sovereign nation apart from the rest of Canada. And through all of this, 400 plus years of history is interpreted, misinterpreted and reinterpreted here at Quebec. The provincial motto "Je me souviens / I remember" can take you wherever you dream - to whichever part of this story you desire to make your own.

As a visitor from the states, plan on being served bilingually in tourist areas of the city. Many institutions such as the Fortifications of Quebec are federal sites where history is recounted bilingually, as required by Canadian law. Restaurants and shops will provide service in the language of your choice, but preference will always be shown towards the use of French - as required by Quebec law. Road signs are universally in French but look exactly like signs you are used to elsewhere. Arret=Stop; Lentement=Slow.

I suggest you consider a 2 to 3 day visit. Whether you stay at the iconic Chateau Frontenac hotel overlooking the St. Laurence River or just outside the original city walls, old Quebec is very walkable and relaxing. In my mind, you should absolutely plan on taking the $10 guided walking tour of the fortifications through Parks Canada. The depth of their 1 hour presentation is amazing. Also suggested would be to take the free 1 hour tour of the National Assembly building. Between these two sites you will gain a great perspective which will enhance the rest of your visit.

A final recommendation: our family had a superb dinner at Aux Anciens Canadiens in old town. Here the cuisine is 100% traditional Quebecois (not French!) The game is served fresh, the drinks are winter strength and regardless of which meal you choose, I beg you to finish with the traditional maple pie. It is the best pie I have found anywhere - all for a reasonable price.

Whether you drive the 7 hours from Boston, the 3 hours from Montreal or travel by cruise ship I believe you will be impressed that this beautiful city is so accessible. With 400 years of living history, exceptional architecture and stunning people it is no wonder that the city has earned UNESCO World Heritage status.

Still Not Whole: 20 Years of Healing

2009-03-23T14:45:00.004-08:00

March 24, 1989 to 2009

WASHINGTON, March 24 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ -- Twenty years ago today, the single-hulled Exxon Valdez oil tanker collided with the Bligh Reef in Alaska, spilling 11 million gallons of crude oil into the pristine and ecologically significant Prince William Sound. The massive spill - caused by human error and lack of oversight - ruined one of America's most treasured natural areas and caused the deaths of millions of animals. Some species are still unrecovered and the environment remains blanketed in oil. The Animal Welfare Institute (AWI) remembers the more than 3,000 sea otters, 300 harbor seals, 250,000 murres, 14 orcas, and countless fish, benthic invertebrates, and other species who died, oftentimes horrible deaths, because of the spill.

A 2009 status report from the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill Trustee Council states, "...Exxon Valdez oil persists in the environment and, in places, is nearly as toxic as it was the first few weeks after the spill." Although two decades have passed, as much as 16,000 gallons of oil persists in the Sound's intertidal zones, continuing to poison wildlife.

Many animals such as the harlequin duck have been slow to recover and show elevated levels of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons from continued exposure to oil. The persistence of subsurface oils is particularly problematic for species like sea otters who dig for clams, exposing buried oil in the process. Pacific herring and the pigeon guillemot populations have still not recovered. The small AT1 population of orcas will likely become extinct, marking the death of a priceless genetic lineage and a complex society that has inhabited the region for thousands of years.

The Oil Spill Pollution Act was unanimously passed by Congress in 1990 in response to public concern over the spill. The Act contains provisions to prevent similar catastrophes from recurring including a conversion of oil tankers to double-hulled, the establishment of spill contingency plans, and the creation of regional advisory councils to monitor the actions of the oil industry. Although we may now be better prepared to respond to further spills, human and mechanical errors are still huge risks that can never be eliminated. "It took the deaths of over a million creatures for improvements to be mandated on the oil companies" said Serda Ozbenian, AWI Research Assistant. "Let them not have died in vain."

Mexico City, Mexico: Perfect Long Weekend

2009-03-22T21:57:00.005-08:00

Fly to Mexico City and tell me it's not the most populated city on the planet. Officially, it is not. But unlike Tokyo, New York and other mega cities, the truth is they just don't know. The barrios are impossible to count accurately.

When I flew here for a long weekend getaway, it was the most phenomenal descent I've ever had. First there's the anticipation and anxiety of it all. But then you look out the window and wow! From the time we left 30-something thousand feet, to the time we landed all you could see was sprawl. Los Angeles could be a suburb of Mexico City!

Mexico City is on my short list of close-to-home, foreign-feeling getaway cities. Perhaps only in the province of Quebec can you get the feeling you're in another culture, without crossing the oceans. Whether it is the food, the Aztec and colonial history or just the cityscape it's easy to know you are not in a faux village such as PV or Cabo. This is the real deal.

The best thing that happened to make this trip successful was my taxi driver from the airport. Having spent a LOT of time brushing up on security issues, I had pretty well freaked myself out before ever arriving. But upon meeting my "approved" taxi driver my fortune changed. He asked if I wanted to hire him for private touring. The cost including gas, excluding tolls & entrance fees was only $80 USD payable at the end of each day. Having a great grasp of English and a modern cab, how could I say no? Logistics and safety just got a lot easier on this short trip!

First stop: the Zocalo. When the Aztec Empire called the valley Tenochtitlan, this was the center of the empire. After the fall of Montezuma II to the Spanish conquistadors, a great transformation took place - a transformation seen throughout the Aztec Empire to this day. Stone temples were slowly taken apart and with a ready supply of bricks, Catholic cathedrals were erected. Look at this photo of both Templo Mayor, and the Cathedral Metropolitana and you will see not only the destrution of the older Aztec site, but how similar in color the ruins are to the colonial church in the back.

From Mexico City, Mexico

While the cathedral was only passively interesting to me, Templo Mayor was exceptional. Although damaged in the 1500's by the Spanish, it was for me one of the rare locations I describe getting a "sense of place." History happened right here and it changed the world. Mexico speaks Spanish today because of the Cortez's conquest here. Mexicans look different from European Spaniards because of the ethnic mix that began here. Countless bloody human sacrifices in tribute to the sun were performed here. Budget half a day to explore this area.

From Mexico City, Mexico

The next and final day of my trip was the most impressive. If you have a life list, you absolutely must include the pyramids at Teotihuacan. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the society that built these major pyramids in the 2nd to 5th century AD was possibly the largest civilization on Earth. Later deserted, the Aztecs of the 16th century regarded these ruins as the birthplace of the gods. Today you can climb the two most important sites: Temple of the Sun and the slightly smaller Temple of the Moon. A bit of advice: bring water, sunscreen and your best pair of lungs. At an elevation of over 7,000 ft you will know that you climbed the third tallest pyramid in the world once you summit Temple of the Sun.

A city this large is too huge to cover in a simple blog post. I'll boil it down for you in closing: the rich history here goes back thousands of years and is easily accessible. To do this region justice you need at least a week, but having only a long weekend I was quite pleased with what could be accomplished here on a short visit. Regardless of your available time, I encourage each of you to update your bucket list with this city - only 3 hours south of Los Angeles, Houston or Miami.

Patagonia Dream Vacation

2009-03-20T23:09:00.003-08:00

There are a few places on earth that travel by ship is nearly essential. Spitsbergen, Alaska's Inside Passage and Patagonia - here cruise ships are not just floating pleasure palaces, they are a valuable mode of conveyance. In today's featured region of Patagonia, a cruise will save you time & money thus allowing you to extend the reach of your vacation.

Patagonia: why did they name it after an expensive line of urban active wear? Since most of our readers are from the US, let's have a brief geography lesson. Patagonia is a non-political land mass. It is neither a country nor a state, and it is not occupied by a single nation of people. Think of it as the Great Plains, or the Pacific Northwest or the Himalayas if that helps. It is the landmass at the southern end of South America covering the lower latitudes of both Chile and Argentina. Named by Magellan, it is a diverse area of tidewater glaciers, the Andes mountains and low grasslands each filled with a variety of distinct wildlife and stunning vistas.

My list of dream vacations includes Patagonia primarily because of the penguins. I know the thought of penguins usually bring up an image from "Happy Feet," "March of the Penguins" and Antarctica. But did you know that there are many species of penguins in South America and points beyond the icy waters of the Southern Ocean? One of my former colleagues took a cruise similar to the version above and she returned with amazing close up photos of Magellanic Penguins from Beagle Channel in Chile. Off the mainland, the Falkland Islands have an even larger species: King Penguins. On my list of dreamy & remote places - who can think of anyone who's been to the Falklands? It's that special of a place, and best visited by ship.

On that same theme, national parks play an important part of Patagonia's universal appeal to nature lovers. Chile's Torres del Paine National Park is home to guanacos - the native cousin to the domesticated llama. The park's jagged peaks, alpine lakes and inland glaciers are now a UNESCO World Biosphere. For those following along on the map above, Torres del Paine is accessed by shore excursion from Punta Arenas.

The second important park is Tierra del Fuego National Park of Argentina. From the port of Ushuaia, this area is typified by the Beagle Channel (named for Darwin's ship). Here you will find sea lions, penguins and abundant migratory birds.

Finally, you've got to love this dream vacation for its contrast of nature and pulsing urban icons. Buenos Aires - birthplace of the tango and Evita. Rio de Janeiro - sultry, Latin and home to one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. To wrap this 16 day trip with these icons will surely leave one appreciative of the contrasts found in Patagonia and beyond.

If this dream vacation is of interest to you, the above itinerary sails aboard Holland America's Veendam in the height of the Austral Summer: December-February. A travel agent can assist you with your plans if you're convinced.

Nome, Alaska: Iditarod Finale

2009-03-17T23:20:00.005-08:00

From Nome, Alaska

Congratulations to Lance Mackey, winner of the Last Great Race on Earth, the 2009 Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race. Covering 1,049 miles from Anchorage to Nome, this year's course was especially challenging. For full coverage to today's 11:38 am finish, click here or visit www.iditarod.com

Geiranger, Norway: Fairy Tale Fjords

2009-03-17T00:29:00.001-08:00

Geiranger is to Norway what Skagway is to Alaska. Both are very small towns set in top notch scenery, favored by cruise ships 4 months a year and worth a day to explore. UNESCO has given a well deserved World Heritage Site designation to the surrounding fjord system. Carved by glaciers long ago, today Geiranger Fjord is one of the longest and deepest in the world. Steep 4,500 ft / 1,400 meter granite cliffs, hundreds of cascading waterfalls and lush green shores each end abruptly in the emerald Norwegian Sea.

Walking the fjord's namesake town is quick. Connected to the Norwegian highway system, Geiranger gets its share of tourism, especially those with RVs. We first walked to the Norsk Fjordsenter to check out their interactive displays related to this, the UNESCO World Heritage Site. From there it was time to get out of town.

The highlight of my day was an independent excursion to Dalsnibba, a 5,000 ft peak from which we found the best views of Geiranger Fjord. You can do this by hourly local bus. In the photos above, you will appreciate how much of a sacrifice this was for my mother. To make sure we didn't have any dissention in the ranks, my friends Jeff & Janis and I quietly sold this as a bus trip through the countryside. It was only after we left sea level that mom realized we were going to climb a mile in only 5 miles of semi-paved road, in a 50 passenger bus. I'm not sure if I could convince, or trick, her into this again. But we suspect the photos she got from the edge of the cliffs will provide some sort of lifelong memories!

For those of you who share my mom's appreciation for topography as seen from below there is another decent option. There is a picturesque outlook about a mile up the road only a few hundred feet above the floor of the fjord. From here you can take photos just like the pros. If you ever see an image of the town of Geiranger with the fjord and waterfalls in the background it was taken here. It's just high enough to get some depth while not high enough that you'll never trust another excursion arranged by your son.

If you travel to Geiranger by car, there is a frequent ferry you can use to sail the fjord to the neighboring town of Hellesylt. While neither town has specific attractions of note, the 20 miles of water between them will put you in the right place to enjoy some of the best fjords in Norway.

After a few dozen posts on this blog, it occurs to me that you may wonder why so many are of extreme northern locals. I don't have a good answer other than to say my blood is thick and to travel from Alaska to the topics takes a lot of acclimation. For some, I suspect you get a similar feeling when you visit the north from Florida, California or Texas!

For more on Norway, here's a link to a recent post on Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen.

Athens, Greece: Second Chances

2009-03-16T01:31:00.006-08:00

What a difference a few years makes both for a destination and a traveler. After visiting Athens, Greece a decade ago I would have told you that once was enough. I returned in 2008 with memories of rude people, thick smog and an infrastructure in disrepair. I can now report, with surprise, that Athens has cleaned itself up into a stunning world-class city. You can even feel it in the people – they are proud of their home again, and rightfully so.

We arrived by Air France and took a traditional Greek taxi to the Hilton (read very fast taxi if you catch my drift). The hotel was quite comfortable with good proximity to the metro and views of the Acropolis. For those of you who use Hilton Honors points, this is a very valuable property to spend them on.

To overcome jet lag, we launched right into the heart of the city for dinner. The area around the Monastiraki subway station couldn’t have been better for my friend's first night in Europe. Walking in the lights of the Parthenon, we found a lively outdoor restaurant. The charming staff served very fresh and flavorful food and street musicians played to the crowd. A few Mythos beers, some pasta and we were off to bed early.

Click On Photos Above to Expand

Getting an early start (essential if you want to beat both the heat and crowds) we went directly to the Acropolis. This famous UNESCO World Heritage Site, capped with the iconic Parthenon is easy to imagine. It was here I realized how much Athens has improved following its showing on the 2004 Olympic stage: the air was wonderfully clean. I was shocked - we could see hills that previously I had no idea were there. They have also taken the progressive step of creating a massive pedestrian zone, calming what once was a very noisy neighborhood.

We each took dozens of photos, perhaps the most of the 3 week vacation. A note of advice: bring a guide book such as Lonely Planet. The signs at the various ruins are bilingual, but they are unfortunately worthless. The history here is rich, but ALL of the notes in public relate to the story of the ongoing renovations. There is surprisingly little to help you piece together the ancient story without your own guide… paper or human.

One bonus of going to the Acropolis is that your admission ticket works at a half dozen historic sites in the city. We added a morning stop at the Temple of Olympian Zeus. It’s a fun walk about for a half hour but to be honest – after a day of Greek ruins, it’s difficult to do a half dozen sites.

We purchased a 3 Euro pass for 24-hours of metro access - a great buy. In the end however, we chose not to use the subway for our transfer to the port of Piraeus. With luggage and sore feet, the 30 Euro taxi from the hotel to pier was a luxury worth taking advantage of. Thankfully, once on board Holland America's ms Rotterdam, we did no more luggage dragging. The ship looked excellent and had one of the best crew's I've seen to date.

The bottom line: cities change. Travelers change. We all probably have places we've written off. Athens is an example of how keeping an open mind and taking a second chance can both impress and surprise with a return journey.

Indonesia & the Great Barrier Reef Dream Vacation

2009-03-13T21:54:00.007-08:00

Introducing my new segment "Dream Vacations". If I'm at home typing, and you're at home or work reading, we might as well pretend that we're about to travel together. Besides, if I only write about places I've been, we're going to run out of topics soon enough. But if we plan an exciting, albeit fictional trip, at least we can learn something new together.

This week's choice is an itinerary I've had my eye on for over a year. It is a truly exclusive area of the world to visit. Home to the largest living thing on the planet and one of the rarest. Let's plan a dream vacation to Indonesia & Australia!

There are two major UNESCO World Heritage Sites that beg for attention on this trip. The first is Komodo National Park in Indonesia, the second is Great Barrier Reef National Park a bit further down under. Additionally, the beginning and end of the itinerary would make great jumping off points for further exploration: Singapore and Sydney. Who, except perhaps my acrophobic mom, hasn't wanted to look down on the Opera House after summiting Harbour Bridge?

Komodo Island would be a dream come true for me. I know folks who've been on safaris, walked the ice of Antarctica, cruised the Galapagos Islands; none of my friends have seen a wild Komodo Dragon! A threatened species, there are only a few thousand left in the wild - all inside this national park. The largest reptiles on the planet, they are - brace yourself - carnivores. Deer and pigs make up most of their diet. They may be less than cute, but who doesn't agree - hoofed critters do make up the most satisfying meals. Apparently on account of being both large and meat lovers, it is important to know what your doing when on Komodo Island. There is no wondering solo here - only passengers on a sanctioned shore excursion can go ashore. It's a compromise I'd be willing to make. For more information about what it's really like to visit Komodo Island, click here for a blog hosted by a world cruiser who recently visited. His photos and firsthand account have sold me 100%.

Next there is the Great Barrier Reef. Now it's unlikely you will see my white whale of a torso going for a SCUBA anytime soon. But snorkeling, count me in. Cruising... even better. This dream vacation includes multiple days of sailing the Great Barrier Reef, 1,200 miles north to south. What impresses me most is that they've planned the ship to only travel during daylight hours. I suspect a part of that is to protect the fragile ecology of the area, but the benefit is we wouldn't miss a thing. Only recently have I learned about how complex this reef system is. It's the only living thing to be seen from space they say. Regardless, how wonderful would it be to be able to see the islands and wildlife of the reef pass around the ship? Calls to Cairns and Whitsunday Island would allow us to get in the warm water ourselves.

Finally there would be a final bonus: the scenic sailing into Sydney Harbour. If time and money (haha) where no object, we could continue on to islands of New Zealand. For now, I'd be happy taking in this much. Anyone else care to join?

If you are curious, the itinerary above sails over Thanksgiving 2009 aboard Holland America from Singapore to Sydney over 15 days. A travel agent can assist you in fulfilling our dream, in case you're now convinced!

Lerwick, Shetland, Scotland: Ponies & Pubs

2009-03-12T23:55:00.002-08:00

I leave you this week with photos from Shetland (also called the Shetland Islands). This archipelego, north of the Scottish mainland and west of Norway is best described with photos. Known for their small horses, windswept land, Shelties and Atlantic cod, Shetland has all the trappings of Scotland, but you will rarely find a local referring to him/herself as a Scot!

We visited aboard Holland America's small Prinsendam in 2007 and have the following inside tip: in Leknes make time for the new Shetland Museum & Archives to learn about their complex history. For centuries Shetland was pased between Norway, Denmark and Scotland, at one point being gifted as a dowry to James III of Scotland. I've always thought a nice island chain would make a lovely dowry some day. Fathers, take note.

Should you find your way into one of the many fish & chip restaurants or pubs be sure not to miss the ship - as we almost did! With a pint in hand, and a Scottish barmaid sharing politics and gossip, time just slips away.

A happy weekend to all from beautiful Alaska!

Barcalona, Spain: Tapas & Sangria Si?

2009-03-12T00:06:00.004-08:00

If you don't get anything at all out of this post, remember my rules for visiting Barcelona: 1) visit for more than a day, 2) visit for more than a day and my favorite 3) visit for more than a day. This is especially true of fellow travelers who arrive by cruise ship. You can not, nor should you not try and hit Barcelona on an 8-5 port call. M'kay?

I now what you are thinking... all cities take more than a day to do justice. Yes, you are right. But in Espana, this is especially true due to the siesta culture. If you take an already huge city, throw a huge meal into the middle of the day and then shut it down for a nap, you have very few hours left to visit the sights. More importantly, this odd cadence to the day creates a nightlife that is essential to experience. You don't need to be out clubbing with all the youngsters to enjoy the nightlife - but it's a central part of Spanish urban culture.

Key sights: The most iconic photo here is of "La Sagrada Familia." Remember to say it with a lisp... you're in Spain, not Colombia. One of Antoni Gaudi's many famous works (which collectively make up a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the Catholic Cathedral La Sagrada Familia has been under construction at a glacial pace for over 120 years. If Rome wasn't built in a day, Barcelona wasn't built in a century. To their credit, there were a few distractions: the Spanish Civil War of 1936, a world war and General Franco's decades of fascist rule. But they're getting there now. Just don't ask when it is slated to be fully completed. 2006 was the plan... but so far nada.

If you are a Gaudi-lover, or as my friend Jillian turned out to be, a mosaic-lover, head next to Parc Guell. Overlooking central Barcelona, this municipal park is both free and crowded. You may not know the park by name, but you will likely recognize Gaudi's touch: the most photographed tile lizard on the planet, a winding bench creating small spaces for conversation and mosaic tiles throughout. Visited in spring, Parc Guell is well adorned with flowers and fresh cut lawns.

But what about all that siesta culture? La Rambla (or Las Ramblas depending on how you count them) is the main drag for pedestrians. Lined with palm trees from the harbor into the city center, here you will find EVERYTHING. Street performers... how about a naughty cross-dressing nun with bare buttocks? Hungry after seeing that? Head to St. Joseph's market for amazing fresh fruit, or my favorite: candy fruit. Thirsty? You can take in the siesta at a tapas bar with local wine, beer and sangria or visit the many tea & coffee shops. Aside from the siesta lull, the show really never stops. If you have a hankering to buy fresh cut flowers, a classic book and a new pair of shoes - it's not too late at midnight on a Tuesday. Plan on staying up literally all night? Go ahead! You'll be in fine company at the trendy clubs that line La Rambla. It is a people watching paradise and must be seen by both day & night to be appreciated fully.

So there you have it. Barcelona is one of the key cities one must visit at least once in life: Paris, London, Hong Kong, Vancouver, New York... and Barcelona. It is in these dense bustling cities where the pulse of a whole nation can be felt - if you take the time to visit well.

Need something more relaxed? Click here to learn about Cadiz on the Atlantic Coast of Spain.

Polar Ice Cap: 500 miles from the North Pole

2009-03-11T00:17:00.002-08:00

The visuals of this day are extraordinary. In August of 2007 we were lucky enough to be on a small Holland America ship at the actual polar ice cap north of Spitsbergen, Norway. At 81 degrees, 31 minutes, 33 seconds north we were without doubt the farthest north any Holland America ship had ever sailed in their 136 year history. It is certain because the previous year the ice was a full 40 miles further south. Prior to this, the cruise line had not offered sailings to this remote corner of the planet.

Finding the ice was a feat for the captain and crew. Every few days there are charts issued for where the ice is thought to be. However, it does move with the tides, currents and winds. So on the appointed day we were told to expect an arrival at the ice cap around noon. Then 1pm. Then 2pm and so on. It took almost an additional 4 hours to eventually spot the edge of the ice pack. It was only then we knew how far north our journey would take us.

If you click on the photo album above, you can see the area in greater detail. First, it is not a solid sheet of ice. The texture of the ice is more like the sea ice we are used to near Anchorage in the winter. Broken into relatively small pieces, they slosh against each other creating a noise much like a margarita does in a salted glass. And no, we'd had nothing, of note, to drink while making this observation! Our captain, Chris Turner, gently pushed the ship into this mix for photos etc. Although slightly foggy, our pictures turned out pretty good don't you think?

Unlike on the western Atlantic where icebergs are famously seen floating down the coast of Canada, here a totally different phenomenon occurs. Because the prevailing current comes from the south, the ice is nicely packed together in a way that separates ice vs. open ocean exactly. There were no stray bergs to be seen on our approach - only open water followed by endless ice. If you were to continue further north than we were able, eventually the pack becomes more solid and thicker.

As a special note, you will see many images of the crew freezing to death for a group photo. For many of the Filipino and Indonesian crew, this week was often the first time they had seen natural snow and ice in all their lives. If they worked contracts in Europe, the Caribbean, and Mexico most of their careers, many had never seen sights like this even at 30, 40 or 50 years old. It was great fun to see them taking photos of each other to send back to their families in the tropics. This sailing also marked the 100th voyage of our ship, the ms Prinsendam. Captain Turner was wise to capitalize on the opportunity to document this special moment not only for us, but for his officers and crew. It was fantastically entertaining to watch the staff enjoy this unique nautical milestone with us.

I'm not sure what my mother will expect for her next milestone birthday, but only days into her 60's, this was about as far off the grid as she could get. Needless to say, she talks about this trip above all others to this day.

We have surely all heard that the polar ice cap is melting at an alarming rate due to global warming. Although rare to visit, it is still possible to replicate our experience by ship. Holland America's Prinsendam will again sail here in the summers of 2009 and 2010, weather and ice permitting. Hurry while the climate and location of the ice cap still allow these special trips to the edge of the planet.

For more information about the nearby port of Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen click here.

Girdwood & Portage, Alaska

2009-03-09T17:38:00.005-08:00

It occurs to me that I've spent little time on Alaska. One reason is how few photos I have to share with you. I hate to admit it, but although Girdwood, Turnagain Arm and rural Anchorage are fantastic, one does get used to their surroundings enough that you forget to carry the camera very often. That said, today's short blog, and photos, are of Portage including Portage Valley, Portage Lake, Portage Glacier and a bit of the Turnagain Arm nearby.

I do remember my first drive in this area. It was with my good friend Gregg from Skagway about a decade ago. We drove over two days from Skagway to Anchorage and arriving early, decided to check out the local area. Those of you who know me may have heard me say that the first hour out of Skagway on the Klondike Highway is my favorite drive anywhere on the planet so far. When Gregg and I hit the Seward Highway south of Anchorage, I do admit feeling this might be a close second. The 5,000 ft Chugach and Kenai Mountains shoot up directly from the water. The water itself, Turnagain Arm, is forever in flux... it has the 2nd highest tidal change on the planet at around 30 feet every 6 hours. Depending on the season, if you add some wildlife (eagles, moose or even beluga whales) or snow, sea ice and ice falls this is a pretty remarkable place.

The town of Portage is, well... no longer a town. It's more of an area. The Good Friday Earthquake of 1964 did the town in. Along the Seward Highway you can still see the dead trees and a few demolished structures from 40 years ago. None of this, however, has any effect on the surrounding natural beauty. For most of you who have or will visit, it is this natural beauty that you are looking for anyways. A missing town on the map is perhaps a bonus!

At the end of Turnagain Arm you have a choice. Continue onto the Kenai Peninsula to Seward, Homer or points between. Or turn left and drive to Whittier and Portage Pass (behind Portage Lake, fed by Portage Glacier etc). Or you can take a break, turn off your car and visit the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. It's an amazing non-profit facility run by Mike and Kelly Miller dedicated to helping orphaned or injured wildlife. The facility is open to the public 365 days a year (since the animals need to be fed 365) and includes moose, elk, caribou, brown bears, black bears, musk oxen, plains buffalo and their newest addition: wood bison. From time to time they also have eagles, foxes, porcupines and odd looking tourists. If you're in the neighborhood, consider joining as a member. $50 gets you a fun newsletter updating you on the center's projects and allows a year's admission for your family.

Another great choice is to visit the Begich Boggs Visitor Center, run by the Chugach National Forest. Here you can watch a 20 minute movie about the history of the area's many glaciers and see exhibits related to weather, flora and fauna. This center sits on the terminal moraine of Portage Glacier overlooking Portage Lake. Although closed in the winter, most of the attraction to the valley is best enjoyed in warmer seasons. There is a modest hike up to Byron Glacier, areas to view spawning salmon in their natural creeks and various campgrounds.

Just beyond Portage Glacier is a great little attraction fit for the whole family: Portage Glacier Cruises. Owned my our friends at Holland America Line & Gray Line of Alaska, their boat will take you 3 miles across Portage Lake to the face of the glacier and back in exactly 1 hour. While numerous glacier cruises are available in southcentral Alaska, this requires the least commitment: there is no potential for seasickness, it's only 1 hour and for $29 you get a guaranteed glacier sighting up close (calving ice is frequent, but not assured).

Finally, our happy little valley of Girdwood should be on anyone's list. Home to the famous Alyeska Resort (our local ski resort), Girdwood is a funky little town of 1,500ish depending on how many of us are in Anchorage shopping at any given time. Here you should checkout the tram up Mt. Alyeska (2,200 feet up in about 5 minutes). For food, go where the locals go... the Bake Shop. You'll find it at the base of the mountain on Olympic Circle. Ask anybody out walking their dog for directions. Once you've been stuffed up on sourdough bread, hike it off on one of our many area trails. Winner Creek is a favorite for those looking for great scenery with little uphill. But those with legs of goats should try for Crow Pass found at the very end of Crow Creek Road. If you decide you need a beer on the way out of town (except for your DD) make a pass through the local's bar The Silvertip. Jed is ever changing the menu, but it always includes local brews and some yummy Belgian Ales.

For those who sail to Alaska's port of Whittier with Princess Cruises or Carnival, all of this is between your port and Anchorage. It's a shame so many of you miss it, most often because nobody told you it was there. Visitors arriving with Celebrity or Holland America ships in Seward will find this area half way between their port and Anchorage. For other visitors to the Anchorage area, all of this can be done in a day provided you have a car. We look forward to welcoming you in Alaska very soon!

Happy Travels.

Leknes, Lofoten Islands, Norway

2009-03-06T14:26:00.004-09:00

Leknes is an example of how fun travel can be with a free spirit. My friends Jeff and Janis accompanied my mother and I here in July of 2007 having no agenda and a full day to kill. As it happened to be mom's 60th birthday our only plan was to make it back to the ship in time for her big birthday dinner in the Pinnacle Grill. As you will see in the last few photos, she was all smiles.

This region of the southeastern Lofoten Islands is filled with alpine and marine beauty, in much the same ways all of the Norwegian coast was beautiful. It has been added to the "tentative list" of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. To explore, we first ended up in Leknes proper... which turned out to be small anyvillage Norway. We snacked on some pastries, walked the one main street and were about to go back to the ship when Jeff and Janis consulted the bus schedule and figured that we could take a scenic ride along the coast. The risk was nothing more than a few dollars and who knows what we'd find.

And there it was: Ballstad, Norway. Population 900. Wikipedia information... nada. The photos above were taken from this small village, including a bar Jeff and I discovered that sold Mack's beer from Tromso. You wouldn't believe it since we were a few hundred miles north of the Arctic Circle, but we were sweating through our shirts sitting out in the sun. Pilsner from the farthest north brewery in the world absolutely hit the spot and was, I dare say, the best beer of the trip.

The photos speak for themselves. The water was as clean as the air, the people wonderfully friendly, and the fishing culture (primarily Atlantic cod) was immediately evident. I have no history, no culture and no wild story to share; only a reminder that sometimes the best secrets are only a few miles off the beaten path. Give local transportation a shot and try your luck. In a small town like Leknes, what do you have to loose?

Shanghai, China: Funding China's Tomorrow

2009-03-05T20:14:00.007-09:00

If you have time to watch the attached YouTube video, there's a lyric that nails Shanghai's place in China: "Bring an open mind; Try your luck and roll the dice; win more than a grand prize." If China were a poker game, Shanghai would be their "all-in" bet. This economic powerhouse contributes around 5% of their GDP (with around 1% of their population). As our lovely guide Kelly explained, Shanghai is one of the places in China receiving the vast majority of government funding for growth and development. The gamble is that success here will later fund the revitalization of the rest of China. The city is therefore stunning.

The history of Shanghai largely revolved around an area on the western bank of the Haungpu River called "The Bund". This is where the 19th century international district centered - once filled with British, American, Belgian, Dutch, French, Russian and Japanese institutions. The modern day Bund in my opinion is the best place from which you can see the Pudong! If you have ever seen (modern) photos of Shanghai - the ones my friend Gillian describes as having Las Vegas architecture - that is the Pudong. In the photos above you will see the iconic structure of the Oriental Pearl Tower. Behind it is the Shanghai World Financial Center, the tallest structure in all of China, including Hong Kong, and third tallest building in the world at 1,614 feet. Only 20 years ago, this was all farmland. Today the city is said to have the largest number of construction cranes on the planet. This is ground zero for Chinese capitalism.

If the modernity of the Pudong and western-influence of the Bund get to you, move next to the Yuyuan Old City area. Kelly called this their "Chinatown." The classic architecture, abundant dim sum restaurants and shopping make this a neighborhood worthy of a full day on foot. Here Rob and I had our best meal in China. Our table heaping with food, especially steamed dumplings, beer and jasmine tea for two came to about $30 USD. I could never recreate this in my own kitchen!

Once you've shopped the Yuyuan, looked at the Pudong and walked the Bund it's time to get out of town. We choose a full day guided tour of Suzhou, an hour from downtown Shanghai. Here, 9 Chinese gardens have been deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their unique beauty and lengthy history. In the photos above, you will mostly see images from the "Humble Administrator's Garden" although we did also enjoy the "Lingering Garden." Kelly took great pains trying to explain the traditional elements of a Chinese garden: Feng Shui principles are applied throughout. Views are considered using controlled lines of sight and framing, and the mixture of vegetation, water, buildings and natural rock are key. It's a bit overwhelming, but the effect that in a relatively small space (compared to European formal gardens) beauty can be created, and compacted. If you sprinkle in a few thousand Chinese tourists your experience is complete!

Also at Suzhou there is a vast network of canals. In my travels, it seems there are countless places that call themselves "The Venice of ____________." Well this is "The Venice of China" and while the scale and culture are 100% different, it is not an unworthy title. They do have an quiet canal culture with average life occurring throughout the system. Our 1 hour boat ride was peaceful and had I not been travelling with my cousin, I dare say romantic.

If shopping is on your list, make sure to try a silk factory tour somewhere in China. Ours was in Suzhou, but there are many of these available elsewhere. Here we were shown silk from the cocoon, to the loom, next on runway models and finally a vast warehouse-sized showroom. The quality felt good, the prices reasonable and regardless of your purchase it is a worthwhile educational experience. The traditional Chinese shirt I came away with has been the source of the most compliments I've ever received regarding clothes and is a lovely souvenir of our time in and around Shanghai.

Need an excuse to pike off to Shanghai? The 2010 World Exposition occurs next summer throughout the Huangpu River district and runs from May through October, 2010.

Dachau, Germany: Arbeit Macht Nicht Frei

2009-03-03T11:39:00.003-09:00

In an earlier post I made a brief comparison between Nagasaki, Japan and Dachau, Germany. Since then I was contacted by a friend whose father served in the army and was present at the liberation of the concentration camp in 1945. Today's post, although without photos, is in his father's honor.

"Arbeit Macht Frei" say the signs. This well known German phrase is perhaps symbolic of the mass perversion the 3rd Reich made of many otherwise normal things. Written above the gate of this, the first concentration camp, it literally translates to "Work Makes One Free." Prior to its use in Dachau, the phrase was a popular nationalist slogan for the liberal democratic Weimar Republic and earlier still was the title to a then famous book.

Work, as we know now, did not represent freedom for those souls condemned to Dachau. First established in 1933 in the suburbs of Munich, this somber place was the model after which later (and larger) concentration camps were designed. The 32 buildings of the barracks area were eventually packed beyond their capacity of 250 each to hold up to 1,600 prisoners in horrifying subhuman conditions. While the original barracks needed to be torn down after the war due to health and safety concerns, the ghosts of the original buildings live on through the 32 cement foundations left in a field of small rocks.

My visit a decade ago occurred in springtime when birds and flowers attempted to mask the silence and gray of the memorial. I distinctly recall a children's choir singing at one end of the facility, songs we could still hear while touring the crematoria perhaps a quarter mile away. Behind a garden area there remains a bullet-riddled wall where Jews, political prisoners, Russian POWs, German resistance fighters, clergy, gays, artists and writers were sent to their deaths. Although the majority of deaths in this camp were related to disease and maltreatment, medical experimentation and executions were practiced for use in other camps such as Auschwitz. The number of dead is unknown, but believed to be near 32,000.

A final memory of this brief visit was an intro page written in the local visitors guide. Written was a sort of pleading by the mayor to please come see Dachau the town, even after being shocked by Dachau the concentration camp. In an odd sort of apology mixing both shame and pride the letter tells of their embarrassment to share a name with this fixture of history. Dachau the city has a long medieval history to share and now they forever compete with the image cursed onto them during WWII. They, like many Germans, have used time and distance to move forward. For the city of Dachau, I can't imagine how their arbeit will ever frei them fully from this stigma.

Beijing, China: My final of 3 posts

2009-02-24T20:36:00.007-09:00

What a difference a day makes. While the first day was “foggy” as Alan tried to explain, day two was brilliantly clear. I don’t know if the wind changed direction, or if they were taking a dry run shutting down factories and power plants before the Olympics, but Beijing is especially beautiful under a blue sky.

We started at ground zero of Chinese history, tourism and news – Tiananmen Square. When our driver dropped us off with Alan we were told to carry no backpacks, just cameras due to security. As we arrived at the security checkpoint things went exactly as we were told by our guide – the guards waved us through without a second look. He was however required to present his papers and his bag was subject to search. It is forbidden to bring photo copies of anything into the square and memorials such as flowers etc are completely off limits.

Although the word Tiananmen has a particularly stained history to those who were awake in 1989, the Chinese connotation is completely different. The word in Mandarin is “Heavenly Peace”. More importantly, it is the most notable collection of nationalist monuments and government buildings in all of China. This is their “mall” if you were to consider Washington, DC. Here you’ll find the Monument to the People’s Heroes, the National Museum of China, the Great Hall of the People (where the communist party’s Congress meets) and most famously: the Tiananmen Gate with Chairman Mao’s portrait. Beyond this wall lies the otherworldly Forbidden City.

Beijing, or Northern Capital in Chinese, was established as a co-capital in the 14th century along with Nanjing, or Southern Capital. The Forbidden City was constructed in 1405-1420 in an attempt by the emperor to approach the prosperity of heaven, while on earth. Although the Chinese vision of heaven is said to be a palace of 10,000 rooms, the emperor was told he could not have this many – a number reserved only for God. In response he instructed his palace be built of 9,999 rooms – a number that he believed were indeed constructed. In reality, his palace/city contains more than 8,000 rooms. In addition, the tenants of Feng Shui required the palace be placed to the south of a large hill. As none existed using the natural topography of Beijing, one was constructed, by hand, on the northern side of the moat. Today you can see this large earthen mound topped with a number of pavilions in the distance. A walk through this complex could take days. Alan helped us find the high points, including the Hall of Preserved Harmony and the Palace of Heavenly Purity. With 175 acres of buildings and courtyards to cover it was all completely overwhelming. The photos above are but a small sample of those we took.

Thankfully a restful lunch of Peking Duck was scheduled next! If you’ve never eaten Peking Duck… do. It is nothing like I imagined, and nothing like any other duck you’ve seen. Among its secrets, Peking Duck is sliced after cooking into 120 perfect cuts. The meat is then mixed with fresh veggies and rolled into small crepe-like pancakes. Mix that with some soy paste, fried rice and a cold beer and you have yourself an absolute feast! I was very excited about having added this to our tour and I was not disappointed. This is a must for all Beijing travelers.

Our last stop of note was the Temple of Heaven. Situated on the Dragon Line, along with Chairman Mao’s tomb, the Forbidden City and other important sites, this large complex is one of many UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Beijing. It was here that the Emperor came annually near the solstices, changed his clothes, fasted on a vegetarian diet, and prayed for good weather and harvests. To accomplish this, a 675 acre park was established – no ordinary Chinese were allowed to see either this ritual or the imperial procession from the Forbidden City. Today the “Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests” is often mistakenly called the Temple of Heaven. In either case, it is said to be the most photographed building in all of China – although I’m sure the Olympic Stadium is giving it a run for its money this year!

Although we’ve covered a lot in 3 posts on Beijing I hope I can summarize our experience with words of optimism and encouragement. You likely saw the amazing spectacle the Chinese put on last summer for the Olympic Games. How could you not be fascinated by the history and imagery NBC brought to a TV near you for over 2 weeks? That said, it is the people of China that make this type of trip worthwhile. Go meet them, in their remarkable land and perhaps you too will come home reminded how much we have in common on this small rock we call home. Alan, thank you for your kindness and assistance in making these dreams a reality for us both.

Happy Travels.

PS... to continue reading on the theme of China, click here to be directed to my post on Shanghai.

Beijing, China: Part 2

2009-02-23T23:08:00.010-09:00

The Great Wall of China, the Ming Tombs and Kung Fu make an aggressive combo for day one in Beijing. But with only two days with our guide, we wanted to pack as much in as possible. After debarking Holland America’s Statendam and clearing Chinese customs in Xingang, we were met by our guide and new friend Alan for the 2-3 hour drive into the capital. Beijing, being an inland city, has no direct port access so regardless of how you arrive by sea your transit time is significant.

Our first stop was the iconic Great Wall of China. Built to protect the country from invasions from the north, segments of the wall vary in length, construction material and repair. Contrary to many western beliefs, it is not a continuous wall, but rather a series of walls – plural. Those sections which are closest to Beijing are the most photographed, and most visited (Badaling being the most famous). Climbing the wall is well, a climb. Although modern construction has improved the surface that tourists roam, every step is a step up, or down. I can’t imagine those who hike here – it must be like walking on railroad tracks. Regardless, Rob and I were pressed for time and cheated – by using a tram to ascend directly onto one of the sections.

Arriving at the Pyramids of Giza, ascending the Eiffel Tower, seeing your reflection at the Taj Mahal and walking the Great Wall of China – these are the types of moments true travelers live for. I have to say, the idea of being on the wall turned out to be less about being there as it was symbolic for being in China in this time. My parent’s generation never had resources to make a trip like this at age 30. My grandparent’s generation couldn’t have come here had they wanted to at age 30. However, many of my peers have been here. For these 3 generations again I say, there is no one China.

As a tourist, it is impossible not to get caught up in the moment in a foreign environment. Just like my first trip to Venice where I took zillions of canal photos, Rob and I took a LOT of pictures of Chinese buildings. Our stop after the wall was at the Ming Tombs. Here 13 of the Ming dynasty emperors are buried. Alan was so polite assuring us “Don’t worry, you will see many buildings with this style tomorrow… please come.” His patience herding his two camera wielding cats was admirable. The tomb area reminds me of how difficult Chinese history can be for us westerners. Oh the imperial names – it’s like keeping US Presidents straight in your head in high school. Except here, the spellings are impossible. How in the world do you pronounce the letter “X”? Alan did his best, and we followed his explanations far better than I would a book. But 8 months later, I confess my retention is pretty poor. When you go, may I suggest you find a Chinese History for Dummies, if such a thing exists?

On a logistics note, plan on hiring a driver when in Beijing. Aside from it not being possible to drive yourself, the value of having a private car and professional driver is very high vis a vis the public transportation system. It was not necessarily scary, but rather tense moving around China. The concept of lanes – forget about it. Tailgating is the norm. Traffic lights - only a suggestion. My suggestion is you sit in back, talk to the guide and keep your eyes off the road. Your professional driver will get you there in one piece.

The last stop of the evening was so memorable – a Kung Fu performance. The young ages that they start into this art is crazy. I would guess some of them were less than 10, if not 6-7. The combination of rhythm, poetry, song and theatrical effects made for an excellent show. Although the audience is near 100% westerners, the experience is 100% Chinese. I’d love to see another, and recommend you try this next time you are in the new capital – Beijing.

To continue to the final post regarding Beijing, click here.
If you missed my first post on Beijing, click here for more.

Beijing, China: There is no China - Part 1

2009-02-21T00:29:00.008-09:00

From Beijing, China

I’ve thought very hard about this post. How do I share the unthinkable contrasts of new & old, rich & poor or flavorful & bland while being neither pessimistic about the China that is, nor overly romantic about the China that could be? Travel in China has made me question some of my beliefs, but solidified many others. All this will take more than one post given our limited medium.

First let me acknowledge that all is not honky dory in the People’s Republic. It is gut-wrenching to see the environmental destruction already realized there. It burns the eyes, fouls your lungs and dampens the soul of the whole community. I liken it to a year-round version of SAD (seasonal affective disorder) which residents of Seattle know from the winter rains. Life in Beijing is a series of smog filled days mixed with partly treeless expanse with a chance of grit from Gobi sand. When this society gave up on their communal environment, how could individuals eventually not give in to the compromise that their personal actions no longer matter with regard to the environment? One dream I have is that outbound tourism will one day affect a solution. When individual Chinese, especially children, can see clean rivers, smell clean air and walk in forested mountains, hopefully they will be inspired to improve water quality, air and land of urban China. As President Obama tries to explain the benefits of green industries on the economy, China has as much potential to test these ideas as anywhere. But it would take a green army.

There is no China. This was the theme to a lecture I attended while cruising with Holland America Line. The professor/speaker was trying to convince us that there is no ONE China, and hence no China at all. The China in your head exists in some places. The China about which the Chinese dream, it is starting to take shape in other places. While the Han people make up the majority of the population, regional races are pronounced – the Tibetans being the easiest for westerners to consider. But there are over 50 different regions, each with their own religions, languages, cultures and politics. Additionally the central government in Beijing governs, but only through regional and municipal communist organizations, each adding their own interpretation to policy. In these ways, China has a chance to be either a federalist America-like melting pot, or perhaps a confederate Europe-like stew. They are still sorting these things out. There is no ONE China.

Our first day in Beijing was overwhelming beyond any travel day I have had. In hindsight I was expecting, indeed seeking, the wrong things. I was so excited to see and walk on the Great Wall. I wanted to be able to SAY “I’ve been there” regarding all the famous sights.

Instead, I found our guide Alan, to be the most important attraction. His story is but one among a billion. But remember, there is no ONE China. Alan was hip. He had spiky hair, jeans, a cell phone in hand and stylish shoes. At 25 years old, he had a good grasp of English, had attended college to be a guide in the tourism industry and worked REALLY hard. His day was hours longer than ours – and we were exhausted. He was the product of the “one child generation” and I bet he was the pride of his small family. His success is one part of China’s story.

Because our cruise coincided with the Olympic Torch Relay in late March, early April of 2008, there were a number of sensitive topics my cousin Rob and I had to navigate with Alan and the others. I’m not sure if we discussed it, or if we were both on the same page without a talk. Never did we actively bring up Tibet, the Dali Lama, the torch relay, the protests of San Francisco, London or Paris, Tiananmen demonstrations, communism etc. We were listeners – not lecturers – and we kept our American mouths shut. This worked out even better than expected because it gave people like Alan a chance to bring some of these topics up on his own, indicating these things were on his mind too. Perhaps because he dealt with westerners in his business, or perhaps because he had a better sense of the world than I gave him credit, he seemed to know we wanted to talk.

I believe it was the first day that we discussed Tibet and the Dali Lama. This hip kid, well educated in the Chinese system, well spoken in English, and quite likable in his personality said of these things: “Those poor Chinese people in Lhasa. It is so unfortunate they are being attacked and killed because of the Dali Lama, that terrorist.” GASP! I remember Rob and me laughing in disbelief about this conversation (out of earshot of our guide). It was as though our new friend Alan had all the sudden turned into a cog in the PRC’s public relations machine. But in hindsight, how could Alan believe anything differently? In 25 years, he’d never once left China. His news was either self-censored or officially censored in all the media to which he’s ever had exposure. He knew what he knew to be true: Tibet=Dali Lama=Terrorist just as the sun rises over the Yellow Sea and sets over the Gobi desert.

The next day, we started in Tiananmen Square, at which I had an even greater sense of place than at the Great Wall. Just to be in that space is remarkable – and an honor to have this simple life experience. It is to China what the mall is in Washington to American. Part way through our walk, Alan mentioned the student demonstrations. It was my opportunity to ask: “Alan, how many people were killed here?” The answer he gave is the greatest hope I have for China. He replied “Oh James, we don’t know these things. Our government doesn’t tell us the truth in these things.” GASP! Of the many soft answers he could have given, he made this statement just as honestly as he did his comment about the Dali Lama. Despite his censored news, his education, his lack of travel abroad and all the short comings of his government, Alan knew enough to know he didn’t know. If there are a half a BILLION Alan’s in China who are young, educated, connected and thinking then China can do nothing but change. In my mind it is a certain fact. I don’t pretend to know what this change will bring, or how fast it will move. But I agree with our lecturer, perhaps from this one simple conversation, that the China we saw will not be forever. Change is more than the slogan we’ve tired of from our political campaign. It is a never ending evolution that has affected all nations, in all countries, since time began on this planet. There is no ONE China and the many versions that there are today will not be in the future. These are exciting times for Alan and his country.

Click here for the next post on Beijing, China related to the actual stuff we saw. I’ll get into the wall, the Ming Tombs, the Forbidden City, and the Temple of Heaven etc at that time. In the meanwhile, consider yourself lucky to live where you do. And make haste to see the remarkable transformation occurring daily in the former Middle Kingdom.

Ephesus & Kusadasi, Turkey

2009-02-19T16:58:00.008-09:00

As most of you are reading from the US, you likely know what it's like when a country is misunderstood; when the spotlight calls out a nation's failings instead of its beauty. I would argue that just as some misunderstand the United States, so too do we sometimes misunderstand Turkey. They are not Morocco which is not Lebanon which is not Iraq which is not Afghanistan. If you have been put off by Turkey because of its location, religion or perceived feelings about America, don't. Just go!

Jillian and I made a call on Kusadasi while cruising last May and we had a very rich experience. I had been to the port about 10 years ago and this time I was not going to repeat the mistake of not going to Ephesus. Ephesus is essential. How often do you get to see one of the TRUE Seven Wonders of the Ancient World?

(Ahem... a guilt-soothing moment of honesty from Happy Alaskan: there is next to nothing left of the Temple of Artemis. But it was here until 401 AD. A better place to see artifacts is the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul where some of the original columns remain. The British Museum also contains a collection of objects from their excavation of the site in the 19th century.)

Back on topic: Ephesus was once a major hub on the Aegean coast. It was ruled at various time by the Persians, Greeks, Egyptians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Turks and now the tourists. Famous men passing these streets included Alexander the Great, Paul and John the apostles. Today it is preserved as one of the best Roman ruins in the world. The iconic Celsus Library is the most important structure reminding us of the importance Roman culture placed on education, learning and archiving. The now-perished building behind the existing facade held perhaps 12,000 hand-written scrolls.

Regarding Paul, John & Mary and early christian history: their story is well told here also. Catholic tradition claims that Mary, mother of Jesus, lived her final years here with John. To this effect there is a shrine said to be her former house where believers gather for near continuous reciting of mass. Orthodox Christians insist Mary died and is buried in Jerusalem but no definitive evidence of either claim has been given. What is clear is that Paul wrote 1st Corinthians while here. Later, his letter to the Ephesians (his former congregation) is said to have been written from prison in Rome. John, expanding the church in Asia Minor (Turkey) likely lived and died here around 100 AD. Jillian and I visited what is said to be his simple grave at the end of our time in Ephesus. I was surprised how few followers it attracted given its proximity to the rest of the ruins.

Kusadasi is a thriving port city looking to the west both geographically and culturally. We had such a nice feast in the tourist area and the total bill was but $30 USD for 2, including a few beers. We did a bit of shopping where we got to practice our bargaining skills. We finally ended up people watching at a locals bar for hours. A particular thrill was being in the neighborhood of one of the mosques when the afternoon call to pray was given. The streets did not clear as you might expect in more conservative areas but the cultural experience of hearing this live was worth the wait.

Tips for fellow travelers:
1) Do Ephesus no matter what the cost, the weather or the length of your stay here
2) Walk the markets and look for deals, while not being an ugly tourist. Everything is not $1 as some of you have heard. It is however a great price, even when the quality is suspect.
3) Efes beer, fresh fruit and Donner Kebabs are all worth trying - in excess if you have to! Go ahead, you're on vacation!
4) Gas is unbelievably expensive for some reason. It was around $12-13 USD per gallon, $3 USD per litre. This reduces the value of taking taxis, although having a private guide is a great way to get the most out of your time. Their English is excellent.

I hope this is enough to inspire you to try Turkey. I look forward to your questions if you have any.

Cádiz, Spain: Worth a week

2009-02-18T22:31:00.005-09:00

If we were to play a word association game and I said "Andalusia", what city would you name first? I bet it's not Cadiz. Perhaps Seville - if anything. And so allow me to introduce you to Cadiz (CA-dith) as pronounced in Castillian Spanish.

Alright, so I'm not spelling it correctly! But do you know how hard it is to type the "á" character on the American keyboard? Just don't tell the Spaniards please.

My friend Jillian and I visited Cadiz on a cruise we took with Holland America Line last June. I had zero expectation for this city other than I knew most of the passengers would probably be heading to Seville, 2 hours away. Among the few ports Jillian and I didn't plan in advance was this one. And how happy were we once we arrived!

Cadiz has so much going for it: it's walkable. It's historic (Columbus sailed 2 of his voyages to the Americas from here). It is incredibly scenic and laid back. And it's a beach town. No, not like a Mexican tourist port - an authentic getaway for Europeans not willing to give up flavorful living while on holiday. I've got nothing against Mexico but if you've been you know the difference. Call it the difference between Corona and Rioja.

Many folks travel with a "scale" they use to compare costs of living one city to the next. It's natural - we all want to relate where we are with where we've been or where we're from. Some folks have a coffee scale (Mom and I paid $5 a cup in Oslo last year). Others have a Big Mac scale - ouch. Jillian and I had, naturally, a beer scale and Cadiz was the winner at 1 Euro ($1.50 US at the time) for a cold, local, tasty glass of hoppy goodness. It was right up there with Turkey on our beer scale. Well done Espana!

All of this is not to imply that you should drink your day away in Cadiz - it's just that there's so much to see, you'll need a pint before your siesta. Start by walking the coastal gardens. I don't know the seasonality of citrus, but there were the most amazing orange trees with ripe fruit filling our nostrils as we ambled the parks. Orange trees in public parks - another point for the Spanish. As you walk the Atlantic side of the peninsula you'll encounter a number of historic forts - at least 3 that we found. There are stories of exiled Spanish Kings that go with them, but I'll leave you this link to learn more about that long story. The various plazas are worth connecting by foot. Many have fountains, all have cafes and tapas bars and one has a huge monument commemorating the Constitution of 1812 which was proclaimed here - in sleepy Cadiz.

If you find yourself in Seville - make time for a side trip to Cadiz. When I returned, I told my mom she'd enjoy a week here. But if you find yourself in Cadiz by ship like we did, consider not doing the long day to Seville. I am certain it is a beautiful city, but with only one day to spend in this region you'll be happy maximizing your time here in Cadiz.

Want to continue day dreaming about Spain? Click here to continue with Barcelona.

Barrow: Tacos on the Tundra

2009-02-17T17:15:00.001-09:00

A quick plug for both a restaurant and a book:

May I recommend you find a copy of "Tacos on the Tundra" for a quick weekend read? Even if today's blog post doesn't talk you into visiting Barrow, Alaska - Fran Tate's story of frontier living will. I'm convinced you have to get that far off the grid to tell true stories that large.

Do you know anyone who's ever been to Barrow - the largest Inupiat (Eskimo) village in Alaska? The farthest north city in the US? The TRUE land of the midnight sun? I first came to Alaska 11 years ago and I had never met anyone who has been there either! That's how lucky I feel to have spent two August days there in 2006.

Since tourism is barely denting this part of the state, you have to forgive their simple infrastructure: the roads need no paving, the hotel is warm and clean albeit unremarkable and (brace yourself) - they sell no alcohol in the village. Thankfully, it is legal in this "damp" community to carry it in with you on the plane!

What you gain is a chance to see a thriving Native village (approximately 5,000) where subsistence living (ie hunting) is still the norm, family and community have deep roots and where life "outside" Alaska has little connection. Locals will stop on the street (from driving their ATVs) and ask you where your from and why you've come to Barrow.

Our day with Tundra Tours started with a 2 hour flight from Anchorage via Fairbanks to meet our native guide. We were all prepared for cold, but seeing flurries in August made even me do a double take. The locals said that the pack ice was only 8 miles off the coast aiding the south wind in keeping us in the 30's. Never mind that the sun hadn't set in nearly 2 months.

The highlight of the tour is the Inupiat Heritage Center, a National Parks Affiliated Site. Here we were treated to songs and dances, learned about whaling and subsistence culture and bought local art direct from the artists. The focus on whaling was an interesting opportunity to watch my fellow travelers. Our guide was a member of a whaling crew himself, but tried very hard to show humility towards the object of his hunt. To him this was not a safari or a tourist event, but rather the way he helps feed the village as has been done for centuries in this region. It was clear he knew the topic was of great interest and confusion for most of his clients. He seemed more comfortable talking as we broached the subject with questions.

This actually turned into a general theme of the tour. Life for our guide was so normal here to him, that it was essential that we ask a lot of questions. It is beyond him why folks want to know how they get fresh water in the winter at -40 degrees but none of us from California or Anchorage could imagine how it would be done. Although not an outspoken guide like you'd expect in Skagway or Denali, he had the right temperament for where we were. He was another highlight of our trip.

At the end of the tour, those who wanted to join the most prestigious Polar Bear Club in the world could do so. You head to "Pepe's North of the Border" with a towel, pay the owner Fran $5 for which she will walk you down to the beach, verify that you fully submerged in the Arctic Ocean (among the bergs) and your name will be taken in the house ledger in exchange for a certificate of achievement. The only takers on this day was a family of 5 from Los Angeles. I'm convinced that had the 3 young girls not gone first, their mom and dad would have had a sudden change of plans. Never the less, the beach partially filled with folks (including locals) who wanted to witness all these white people acting the fool. For a town that spends their life trying to stay OUT of the Arctic Ocean - this was the ultimate of culture clashes.

Nagasaki: Temples New and Old

2009-02-17T01:43:00.002-09:00

To look at this city 63 years after the bomb, you wouldn't necessarily know it even happened. Nagasaki's atomic story is at least half the reason one visits here, but if it is your only reason you will miss out.

It is essential to start with the story of the bombing. The memorials to the dead, the black monument marking the "hypocenter" and the surrounding peace park filled with cherry trees are all moving - regardless of your nationality or age. My feelings here were not unlike my visit to Dachau, Germany - quiet is the loudest sound. And you notice everyone: is HE visiting because he lived through it? Are they showing their children because THEIR grandparents were killed?

The lasting memory and only story I'll share regarding the memorial area is the symbolism of water. Above you will see a reflecting pool, under which is an LED light for every known dead (about 70,000). Although not appropriate to photograph, the underground memorial further incorporates this symbol in the shrine where the names of these dead are listed in a stack of books - perhaps 20 or 30 feet tall are the pages. Then if you look closely in some photos, you will again see water bottles left, almost like rubbish, around the tall black monument marking the exact location of the blast (the "Hypocenter").

To summarize what we learned: water is the tribute the living continue to make for the dead of Nagasaki. In the days after the blast, those who were not immediately killed, suffered from dreadful burns and radiation poisoning - the treatment of which required water. Unfortunately, because of the radioactive fallout, most local fresh water was further contaminated - making treatment nearly impossible. In keeping with their tradition of ancestor worship, the Japanese (with Shinto heritage) now make these gifts to those who in August of 1945 could not find suitable water to drink. Among the disgusting notes related to this - the vast majority of those killed and wounded here were women and children. The men of Japan were fighting elsewhere.

Don't linger the full day there. There is so much life in modern day Nagasaki! Start with Motofurukawa Street and find lunch. The neighborhood (and the city from what we could tell) is PRISTINE clean. The people are friendly beyond belief - with English skills far superior to our Japanese! My cousin Rob, my travel companion on this trip, treated me to a lesson in changing currency - Japanese style. It was hysterical: filled with paperwork, stamps, a floor of men in identical suites who bowed - in unison - as we left the bank. I wished we'd videotaped this insightful 20 minute glimse of their bureaucracy mixed with stereotypical politeness.

If you want to get lost for hours, or even days conclude your time around Teramachi Street. There are 9 Buddhist Temples here to discover, primarily from the 17th century. If you are like us and your Catholic upbringing didn't include teaching on Buddhist Temple etiquette don't be shy: remove your shoes, enter quietly, stay out of the way of those praying and be modest with your dress, your voice and your camera. Rob and I exchanged a number of quiet pleasantries with locals and I can speak for us both that we felt warmly welcomed.

One final note on Japan and this beautiful port - children are so different when you leave home. The final few photos above were taken at our ship (Holland America's ms Statendam). The port of Nagasaki went all out giving us a performance of traditional song & dance on board by a group of local students. The kids were about 6-12 years old and let me say - there's no way you'd get a group of 30 Americans to dress up, stand in line quietly and perform to that caliber! Where was all the pushing, hair pulling and yelling I imagine from younger kids back home? It was a nice way to complete our day of (how shall I say this...) culture shock!

Spitsbergen, Norway: The Edge of the Planet

2009-02-15T19:43:00.004-09:00

From Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen, Norway

The risk is "rather small" but not non-existent apparently! This sign from the SAS Radisson Hotel in Longyearbyen, sums it up. This is a frontier even more remote than my home of Alaska!

At 78 degrees north latitude, the sun rose this year for the first time TODAY... the 15th of February! Come back the 18th of April, and the sun won't set EVER for 128 days (Aug 25, 2009).

Mom and I travelled here in 2007 with our friends Jeff and Janis having no clue what to expect - would there be bears? How cold should we pack for? Why are they taking us here?
Here's why you go: to see the edge of the planet! This is as far off the beaten path as you can get. Human history has only been here for a century. Before that, the glaciers ground their way to the sea and the frozen north Atlantic lapt at the mountainous shores of Spitsbergen for eons without us. Little has changed.

In winter, polar bears are a common sight in these parts - as signs of all sorts warn. In summer however, it is impossible to find them near town. What you will find instead is a remarkably civilized city with a visable heritage of mining, now ended. It is even rumored that there is a 20,000+ bottle wine cellar at "Huset". Rest assured, if we had all winter, we would have gotten through most if not all of them!

We sailed together aboard Holland America's ms Prinsendam. This once-a-year voyage is not only unique but very difficult to book passage on. We were very LUCKY! The next time this ship sails here will be in summer of 2009. Other options include taking a trip with Hurtigruten (Norwegian Coastal Voyage) or flying in on a short, but expensive flight from Oslo.

The World As I Know It

2009-02-15T18:41:00.002-09:00

Welcome friends - you've arrived at the blog of Happy Alaskan and his buddies. I've been lucky to travel the world the past few years and now it's time to share with others. Stick around a while, won't ya?

Happy Travels!