Temperate climates - a small guide to organic and ecological everyday life

pH preference table of flowers, trees and shrubs

2010-12-10T14:11:00.000+01:00

The table below shows the pH requirements of certain species of plants. It seems that most of the plants require a neutral or slightly acidic soil. If the soil too acidic, one can change its pH by dispersing lime. However, it is very important to be cautious with lime because it may induce alkalosis of the soil, which is always dangerous.

Flowers, trees and shrubs
Name	pH minimum	pH maximum
Abelia	6,0	8,0
Acacia	6,0	8,0
Acanthus	6,0	7,0
Aconitum	5,0	6,0
Adonis	6,0	8,0
Ageratum	6,0	7,5
Ailanthus	6,0	7,5
Ajuga	4,0	6,0
Althea	6,0	7,5
Alyssum	6,0	7,5
Amaranthus	6,0	6,5
Anchusa	6,0	7,5
Androsace	5,0	6,0
Anemone	6,0	7,5
Anthyllis	5,0	6,0
Anthirrhinum	5,5	7,0
Arbutus	4,0	6,0
Arenaria	6,0	8,0
Aristea	6,0	7,5
Armeria	6,0	7,5
Arnica	5,0	6,5
Asperula	6,0	8,0
Aster	5,5	7,5
Avena	6,0	7,5
Azalea	4,5	6,0
Bergenia	6,0	7,5
Buddleia	6,0	7,0
Buphthalum	6,0	8,0
Calendula	5,5	7,0
Camassia	6,0	8,0
Campanula	6,0	7,5
Canna	6,0	8,0
Catalpa	6,0	8,0
Celosia	6,0	7,0
Centaurea	5,0	6,5
Cerastium	6,0	7,0
Cheiranthus	5,5	7,5
Chrysanthemum	6,0	7,0
Cissus	6,0	7,5
Cistus	6,0	7,5
Clarkia	6,0	6,5
Clematis	5,5	7,0
Clianthus	6,0	7,5
Colchicum	5,5	6,5
Aquillegia	6,0	7,0
Convallaria	4,5	6,0
Convolvulus	6,0	8,0
Coreopsis	5,0	6,0
Cornus	5,0	7,0
Coronilla	6,5	7,5
Corydalis	6,0	8,0
Cosmos	5,0	8,0
Cotoneaster	6,5	8,0
Crocus	6,0	8,0
Cynoglossum	6,0	7,5
Dahlia	6,0	7,5
Delphinium	6,0	7,5
Deutzia	6,0	7,5
Dianthus	6,0	7,5
Digitalis	6,0	7,5
Leontopodium / Edelweiss	6,5	7,5
Elaeagnus	5,0	7,5
Enkianthus	5,0	6,0
Erica	4,5	6,0
Euphorbia	6,0	7,0
Forsythia	6,0	7,5
Fuchsia	5,5	6,5
Gaillardia	6,0	7,5
Gazania	5,5	7,0
Genista	5,0	6,0
Gentiana	5,0	7,5
Geum	6,0	7,5
Gladiolus	6,0	7,0
Globularia	5,5	7,0
Godetia	6,0	7,5
Gypsophila	6,0	7,5
Hedera	6,0	7,5
Helianthus	5,0	7,0
Helleborus	6,0	7,5
Hemerocallis	6,0	8,0
Hyacinthus	6,5	7,5
Hydrangea	4,0	5,0
Hypericum	5,5	7,0
Iberis	6,0	7,0
Ilex	5,0	7,5
Ipomoea	6,0	6,5
Iris	5,0	7,5
Juniperus	5,0	6,5
Kalmia	4,5	5,0
Kerria	6,0	7,0
Knipphofia	6,0	7,5
Kolwitzia	6,0	7,5
Laburnum	6,0	7,0
Lathyrus	6,0	7,5
Laurus	5,0	6,0
Lavandula	6,5	7,5
Liatris	5,5	7,5
Lingustrum	5,0	6,5
Lithospermum	5,0	6,5
Lobelia	6,0	7,5
Lonicera	6,0	7,5
Lupinus	5,5	7,0
Magnolia	5,0	6,0
Mahonia	6,0	7,0
Malus	6,0	7,5
Mathiola	6,0	7,5
Molinia	4,0	5,0
Moraea	5,5	6,5
Myosotis	6,0	7,0
Trapaelum / Nasturtium	6,0	7,5
Narcissus	6,0	7,5
Nicotiana	5,5	6,5
Pachysandra	5,0	8,0
Paeonia	6,0	7,5
Papaver	6,0	7,5
Passiflora	6,0	8,0
Paulownia	6,0	8,0
Penstemon	5,5	7,0
Petunia	6,0	7,5
Polygonum	6,0	7,5
Portulaca	5,5	7,5
Primula	6,0	7,5
Prunella	6,0	7,5
Prunus	6,5	7,5
Pyracantha	5,0	6,0
Rhododendron	4,5	6,0
Rhus	6,0	7,5
Rosa / Roses	6,0	7,0
Salvia	6,0	7,5
Saponaria	6,0	7,5
Scabiosa	5,0	7,5
Sedum	6,0	8,0
Solidago	5,0	7,0
Spiraea	6,0	7,5
Syringa	6,0	8,0
Tagetes	5,5	7,0
Tamarix	6,5	8,0
Trillium	5,0	6,5
Tulipa	6,0	7,0
Veronica	5,5	6,5
Viburnum	5,0	7,5
Vinca	6,0	7,5
Viola	5,5	6,5
Wisteria	6,0	8,0
Zinnia	5,5	7,5

pH of the different types of compost and soil

2010-12-09T19:46:00.001+01:00

Each plant has specific pH requirements in order to develop harmoniously. The table below shows the pH of compost and soil. The pH up to 6,8 is consider acidic, or sour, pH between 6,8 – 7,0 neutral and above 7,0 bitter or alkaline.

Type of soil/ substrate / compost	pH minimum	pH maximum
Compost (depending on the proportion of potassium)	6,3	8,0
Manure (fully composted stable manure)	6,3	7,4
Old forcing manure (fully composted)	7,0	7,6
Leaf compost (it depends on the type of deciduous foliage)	5,0	6,0
Compost from coniferous needles (depending on the type)	4,0	4,7
Turf ground (depending on the turf)	6,8	7,4
Clay	7,0	7,8
Moss ground	3,5	5,0
Heathland ground (in chunks)	4,0	5,2
Peat	4,0	4,6
Coarse sand	5,7	6,4
Ditch sand	7,4	8,0

Organic fertilizers – an outline

2010-12-09T18:58:00.003+01:00

Jean Francois Millet, Peasant Spreading Manure 1855

The quality of fruits and vegetables is determined by the the use of fertilizers. Unfortunately, the products found the shelves of the supermarkets and local markets do not meet the quality of organic products. The ever increasing number of diseases and pests can be correlated to the incorrect use of fertilizers. Not only does the grower need to pay particular attention to the manner of fertilizing his plants but also to keep in mind that only a healthy soil can provide a healthy crop. Although inorganic fertilizers are used on the larger scale and it seems that its use leads to high yielding , because of the intensive use of the soil in such manner of cultivation, it is necessary to use organic fertilisation to avoid the gradual intoxication of the soil. Organic fertilisation is a traditional method of fertilizing.

Organic fertilisation has been seen as economically uninteresting and organic farming is unjustly seen as a manner of cultivating plants that brings low yields and the fruits are usually misshaped or not so presentable as their inorganic counterparts.

But this is a misconception. Professional growers use the resources intensively and after a succession of seasons the soil may be exhausted or loaded with unnecessary salts etc. This misconception is also fed by the fact that professional growers use special hybrids of planting material which are chiefly intended for a good commercial presentation. In this case commercially attractive vegetables are produced but there is a toll paid by the quality and the taste of the product.

Organic fertilisation does not only bring the necessary elements in the ground but assures a more harmonious development of the plant and at the same time an increased yielding. Organic fertilisation is a simulation of the natural processes, but you should keep in mind that any kind of gardening is at its core not natural. Things do not occur in the nature as they occur in gardening. Organic farming has at its core a simulation of natural process by using products that are not synthetically obtained and which are eco-friendly. They do not leave chemical waste in the soil and by this is meant that the environment is less affected. To be 100% eco-friendly means not to cultivate at all.

The first rule is to know that fertilization and gardening is not a natural process but it is a man-made process, no matter the way it is done. Howeverm we are going to look into the way fertilization happens in nature or similarly to this.

The second rule is to know the exact type of fertilizer which a specific plant requires. Using too much nitrogen for potatoes can lead to catastrophic results.

The third rule is that the soil to be cultivated has to contain good humus and organic material. This is obtained by constant incorporation of compost and natural manures and only then to apply biological or organic fertilizers.

Therefore, the gardeners has to take into account the following facts:

1. He has to provide enough humus to the soil by amply using organic material.

2. The application of fertilizers has to be hygienic.

3. No one-side fertilization, but complete fertilization.

4. No excess of organic fertilizers.

5. Harmonious fertilisation, but considering the requirements of each particular plant.

6. The guidelines of eco-friendliness and organic exploitation have to be followed thoroughly.

In the following posts we you will see how to obtain and use organic fertilizers. We will discuss about different types of organic amendments to soil, the pH.

To conclude, I want to emphasise that fertilising organically presupposes the use of some products found in the household and which can be recycled. Compost is such an example and in the future we shall discuss the methods for obtaining good quality compost. Wood-ashes are also good fertilizers that can be used in combination with other biological ones. Therefore, organic fertilisation does not only provide the plant with a good dose of nutrients, or keeps your soil healthy, but also reduces the quantity garbage heap. Finally, organic fertilization can replace inorganic fertilisation, this means that if the demand for chemical fertilisers is low, then also the polluting industrial preparation of them is limited. The only drawback is that these organic fertiliser products are not as easy to administrate and require a certain degree of involvement of the farmer in their production. However, they can be home-made and they do not require a special laboratory.

Elder and linden flower syrup

2010-12-01T15:38:00.000+01:00

Here's a recipe for a very refreshing and tasty drink:

Ingredients:
2 l water
2 kg sugar
15 elder flower clusters (Sambuci Flos)
2 handfuls linden inflorescence (Tiliae Flos)
2 lemons

Make a mixture of water, sugar, lemon juice. Slice lemons and add them to the mixture. Add the flowers, WITHOUT previously washing them. Check for insects, dirt or small leaves. Put the mixture into a big jar and let it stand for 3-4 days. Strain through a cloth . Sterilise your bottles by putting them in an oven, on low heat, for about 10 minutes. Fill in the bottles and store in a cool, dark place.

Add a small cantity to a glass, along with, if you like, some fresh lemon juice. On hot days, serve with ice cubes and slices of lime/lemon.

Health benefits:
Lime flowers have a calming effect, which is why they are often used in cases of insomnia. It is a successful remedy against anxiety.

Pots in the garden

2010-11-27T19:56:00.001+01:00

Plants in pots even work in garden especially when you give the pots and plants in them, enough room to become a nice focal point or a nice addition to plants that are in the garden. A focal point can be one plant in a pot against an otherwise barren wall, where the colours of the plant(s) contrast with the colour of the wall. Complementary pot plants can be like you extend or accentuate the colour scheme of that particular garden area by putting a tropical or unusually shaped plant in a complementary colour.

One of the most evident mistakes is to put plants of different groups in the same pot. You have to make sure, the plants you put in one pot, have to have same nutritional and watering needs.

Groups of plants that be put together, in the same pot are:

Annuals
Aquatics
Bulbs
Cacti and other succulents
Climbers and trailers
Perennials
Tropicals
Trees and shrubs

Each plant group has its own needs as far as type of soil, drainage, watering, location (sunny or shady,…) … are concerned. If you want to do more complicated of plants within the same group, it is important to realize that either you stick to similar colours of try to create a display with contrasting colours. The colour wheel shows contrasting colours on the opposite side.

Pots come in a variety of materials and size. Here are some basic rules to choose a pot. While you may not have a wall of pots to choose from, it's a good idea to keep a selection of various shapes, sizes, and materials on hand.

Know your plants. Some pot materials allow water and air to pass through them, promoting drainage in the mix but also accelerating water loss. Most plants benefit from the presence of a drainage hole; if lacking one, most containers can be drilled to make one.

Avoid "waisted" pots (containers with constrictions somewhere below the top of the pot), except for annuals and other plants you intend to grow for only one season.
Consider the relative permanence of the pot material. Choose more durable materials for longer-lived plants, especially topiaries and large plants that may stay in the same container for years.
Consider cost. You could spend anywhere from a few cents to a few thousand dollars or more on a pot. Cost goes up with the value of a pot's basic constituents and the potential life span of its material, so decide if you want to make (and can afford) the investment in costlier materials. Over time, more expensive pots may save you some money you would otherwise spend on replacing cheaper ones. Some less expensive materials, including reconstituted stone and fi berglass, convincingly copy the look of materials to the elements during winter; bring them inside, or at least cover them in place with plastic or other nonporous material.
Consider sturdiness. Although some pot materials are sturdier than others, try to avoid banging and otherwise knocking around any container.
Consider what freezing weather will do to a pot. Anyone who gardens in areas that experience freezing temperatures needs to understand frost and cold resistance (and the lack of it). Very porous materials, including unglazed clay and wood, absorb and retain water, which expands when it freezes. That leads to cracking and flaking, both of which can destroy a container or, at the very least, spoil attractive surface features.
Consider weight. Finally, an extremely practical matter to consider: how much weight can you manage without help?

Know your materials.

Clay containers—ranging from everyday, inexpensive, machine-made pots to one-of-a-kind, pricey, handmade treasures—are probably the most popular choice for container gardeners.
A terra-cotta pot is made from essentially the same material as a clay pot, but terra-cotta is fi red in the kiln at higher temperatures. Being stronger and far more waterproof than regular clay, terra-cotta provides much greater resistance to winter damage.
All wood will rot over time in the presence of water and soil microorganisms (not to mention carpenter ants and termites), but some hardwoods and chemically treated softwoods can last a remarkably long time if properly maintained. Try to raise wooden containers off the soil or other surfaces on bricks, stones, or pot feet; line them with plastic or metal; protect them from the ravages of winter.
Iron, steel, aluminum, copper, zinc, and lead vessels add a distinctive touch to any container planting.
Don't let stereotypical notions of plastic prevent you from gardening with pots made from it. While most plastic pots are widely considered plain looking or maybe even vulgar, some plastics closely copy the look of clay, terra-cotta, wood, metal, and stone and cost far less than their counterparts.
A catchall term for several plastic like materials, resins look and behave much like many plastics but often hold up better in sunlight and take more physical abuse than plastics.
Nothing looks as solid and ageless as stone, whether roughly hewn or highly polished. A stone container presents a visually exciting contrast to its organic contents and surroundings.
Grind stone up and bind it together with cement, epoxy, or similar glues and a dye. The resulting reconstituted stone can be cast into shapes, avoiding the effort, time, and expense of carving an intact block of stone.

Storage conditions of belgian endive, chicory, witloof, whitloof?

2010-11-26T00:07:00.000+01:00

Because it is the high season of this delicious plant I think it may be interesting to post something storage conditions of chicory.

Storage of Chicory, whitloof, radicchio

Cichorium intybus, Compositae.

Botany

The edible portion of the salad chicory cultivars is the leaves, which are grown in the dark from the swollen taproot so that they are blanched. The blanching makes them less bitter. In Europe the plants are grown from seed and lifted from the ground in the autumn. The leaves are cut off 2–3 cm above the root and the crowns are covered with soil or sand and placed in heated sheds or greenhouses. The new young growth within the covering is shielded from the light and is therefore blanched. The blanched hearts are used as a cooked vegetable. Curled chicory will freeze at about –0.8 to 0.6°C (Wright 1942). Some cultivars are grown for their large roots, which, when dried,roasted and ground can be blended with coffee or form an ersatz coffee.

Physiological disorders

The margins of the leaves may turn yellow and become dry. The disorder is called marginal browning and is thought to be premature senescence caused by poor growing conditions or inappropriate transport or storage (Pantastico 1975).

Precooling

This is recommended to preserve their freshness and is achieved by top icing as soon as possible after harvesting (Wardlaw 1937).

Storage

Their shelf-life at a simulated room temperature of 20°C and 60% r.h. was shown to be only 2 days

(Mercantilia 1989). Refrigerated storage recommendations are as follows:

• 0–1°C and 85–95% r.h. for 2–3 weeks (Anon 1967)

• 0°C for 20 days in plastic wraps or bags with the tops left open (Tindall 1983)

• 0°C and 90–95% r.h. for 24 days (Mercantilia 1989)

• 4°C for 12 days (Mercantilia 1989)

• 10°C for 5 days (Mercantilia 1989)

• 0–1°C and 95–100% r.h. for 2–4 weeks (Snowdon 1991)

• 0°C and 95–100% r.h. for 14–28 days (SeaLand 1991)

• 0°C and 95–100% r.h. for 14–21 days for Raddichio (SeaLand 1991).

Controlled atmosphere storage

Atmospheres containing 25% CO2 caused the central leaves to turn brown (Wardlaw 1937). Storage

of Witloof chicory in 4–5% CO2 with 3–4% O2 at 0°C delayed greening of the tips in light and delayed

opening of the heads (Hardenburg et al. 1990).

Saltveit (1989) recommended 0–5°C with 4–5% CO2 and 3–4% O2 for Witloof.[1]

[1] Fruit and vegetables, A.K. Thomson, Blackwell Publishing, 2003

Belgian Endive with Ham and Cheese Sauce

2010-11-24T22:32:00.001+01:00

This is a traditional Belgian recipe !

Ingredients (For 4 persons)

1 kg endive (or 6 pieces)
200 grams boiled ham cut into thin slices, the fat at the rim removed
25 grams butter
25 grams of flower
2 dl milk
2 teaspoons of mustard
1 dl dry white wine
250 grams grated (extra) old cheese
1 egg yolk
white pepper and salt
nutmeg

Boil in a big cooking pot water with salt. Put the rinsed (entire) pieces of endive in the boiling water for 12 minutes. Scoop them out and let them drain. Keep 2 dl of the boiling liquid.

Melt the butter in saucepan and add flower. Keep stiring during 2 minutes while whisking. Add 1 dl of the boiling liquid en let cook in to get the sauce thicker. Keep stirring. Add half of the milk, let it boil up and then add the rest of the boiling water, the milk and the white wine.

Let the sauce simmer for 5 minutes. Stir ¾ of the grated cheese and the musterd in the sauce till you get a thick smooth sauce. Take the pan off the fire and add the eggjoke and add salt and pepper to your taste. Preheat the oven on 180 °c. Remove the foot of the endives, cut them in half on their length and wrap the ham around them. Put them in a big oven dish and add a bit of pepper. Stir the cheese sauce once more and poor it over the endive-ham rolls. Cover this with the rest of the cheese and add nutmeg and put it in the oven for 20 minutes on 180 °C. Then turn up the heat of the oven till 200 °C and let it bake for another 10 minutes or till the cheese sauce has a nice golden brown colour.

Have a nice meal!

Hippeastrum spp. / Amaryllis

2010-11-24T21:55:00.000+01:00

Hippeastrum Minerva

Scientific name: Hippeastrum spp.
Common name: Amaryllis. A label given by sellers and nurseries, and care should be taken not to confuse it with Amaryllis belladonna.
Images: see below
Origin: South America, Central America and the Carribean
Type: perennial
Plant description: Long, rather narrow leaves, six-petaled flower, which can grow up to 6 inches wide.The plant is often mistaken for a lily
Size: stem and leaves grow to up to 22 inches.
Light: Amaryllis loves sun, and you should find it the most well-lit place possible
Temperature: 20-30 degrees centigrade
Soil: nutritious potting compost; well-drained soil.
Watering: water sparingly until the bud and leaves appear, then increase waterings
Fertilizer: use half the recommended rate of any water soluble fertilizer.
Two or three applications of fertilizer during the growing season (March through September).


Hippeastrum cybister hybrid

Flowers: large trumpet-shaped flowers, red, white, pink, salmon and orange. There are also striped and multicolored varieties, combining red and white.
Propagation: Amaryllis can be propagated by seeds, offsets (bulblets) or cuttage. The best way to propagate Amaryllis is by separating the small bulbs which grow on the ''mother'' bulb. The bulblets can be divided during fall, when the leaves begin to turn yellow. Offsets should bloom within approximately three years.
An interesting experiment is to propagate Amaryllis from seeds. When the Amaryllis is in bloom, take a cotton swab and run it across the stamen. For pollination leave only one flower per stem. Then brush the pollen on to the tip of the pistil.

After the flower starts fading, a bulge will grow at the base of the bloom. Riping will last for about 2 months. When ripe, the pod will eventually burst open. Collect the seeds. They need to be sowed soon, otherwise they will lose viability. Not all of them will be viable, but you can collect about 20-40 viable seeds.
Sow the seeds in soilless substrate Keep growing medium moist, warm and in light. They will sprout randomly after at least three weeks. Baby Amaryllis should be transplanted only when they are big enough to be handled. It may take up to three years until you will have the first bloom and the plants resulted will not be identical to the mother plant.
Pests and diseases: the narcissus bulb fly, red bloch, a fungus disease
Extra tips:
When buying the bulb, keep in mind that the bigger the bulb, the more flowers you will have
It is not necessary to separate the bulbs every year, but doing so will encourage uniform flowering and larger flowers.
Remove the dead blooms before the plant produces the seeds. Otherwise, flowering during the next season will be greatly reduced.

Carefully inspect the bulbs before buying, in order to prevent diseases.

Mineral / Inorganic fertilizers

2010-11-24T11:55:00.001+01:00

Mineral fertilizers / Inorganic

Fertilizers are broadly divided into organic fertilizers (composed of enriched organic matter—plant or animal), or inorganic fertilizers (composed of synthetic chemicals and/or minerals).

Inorganic fertilizer is often synthesized using the Haber-Bosch process, which produces ammonia as the end product. This ammonia is used as a feedstock for other nitrogen fertilizers, such as anhydrous ammonium nitrate and urea. These concentrated products may be diluted with water to form a concentrated liquid fertilizer (e.g. UAN). Ammonia can be combined with rock phosphate and potassium fertilizer in the Odda Process to produce compound fertilizer.

The use of synthetic nitrogen fertilizers has increased steadily in the last 50 years, rising almost 20-fold to the current rate of 100 million tonnes of nitrogen per year. The use of phosphate fertilizers has also increased from 9 million tonnes per year in 1960 to 40 million tonnes per year in 2000. A maize crop yielding 6-9 tonnes of grain per hectare requires 30–50 kg of phosphate fertilizer to be applied, soybean requires 20–25 kg per hectare. Yara International is the world's largest producer of nitrogen based fertilizers. This growth is the result of the ever increasing need for food of the population.[1]

Most of the fertilizers used in agriculture come as separate compounds for each macronutrient or in combination. They are applied at different stages of the growth of the plant and they influence positively the volume of the crop. However, the combination of inorganic fertilizers and the cultivation of highly yielding cultivars has put the toll on the quality and the taste of the product and the plant themselves. Plants proved to be less resistant against diseases and the taste faded. There is always the risk of over-fertilization burn and vast areas of agricultural land have been compromised due to the building up the level of salts in the soil, compensated by the lack of organic material addition. The use of inorganic fertilizer may increase yielding for a few years, but because of the intensive cultivation contributes to the erosion of the soil. Once the soil has become eroded, exhausted and the salts have been already built in, there is not easy remedy and only the pass of time and the influence of nature can restore the initial balance. The complimentary use of pesticides, insecticides and herbicides make the matters even more serious.

At this point, most of the do-it-yourself stores and garden centres have on their shelves different formulas of inorganic fertilizers. Most of them are called complete fertilizers because they contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. However this nomination does not really covers the needs of a plant. Plants also need calcium, magnesium and other micronutrients, which, although they are consumed in very little quantities are equally important. Therefore it is always wise to read the labels. The use of inorganic fertilizer at home has to be done with caution, because it absolutely does not mean that if you add more of the prescribed quantity the plants will grow faster. On the labels it is always written the necessary dilution. If you apply a more concentrated dilution you risk burning your plants, due to over fertilization. Over-fertilization results stunting, the pH of the soil may be altered by the salts in your dilution and in certain cases the roots may be affected and the leaves can show sign of fertilizer burn. Furthermore, the soil will get also saturated in salts and become unproductive. Many horticulturists prefer to apply half-concentrated dilutions than the ones written on the product labels, twice as often.

In the last years foliar feeding has become available for home use. It prevents the salt building in the substrate, but increases the risk of leaf burn. For these reasons it applied only during overcast days. If applied in full sun, the water parts of the fertilizer will evaporate quicker than being absorbed and the salt parts will burn the leaves of your plants. If applied when it rains, the fertilizer dilution will be simply washed away. Commonly, foliar feeds can be used also as root feeding and the other way around. Root feeding has to be diluted in two times more volume of water in order to obtain a foliar fertilizer. For example, if you have a normal (root) fertilizer and you have to use 10 ml for every litre of water, in order to use it as foliar feed you have to dilute only 5 ml or less to every litre of water. This is just a random example.

To conclude, inorganic fertilizers have a quick action, they improve yielding and flowering, but there is always the risk of altering the proprieties of the soil and burning your plants. It is cheaper than organic fertilizers, it is easy to use and it is cheaper to transport, deliver and to store. Nevertheless, it is not an ecological product because it produced in polluting factories, and it is not at all organic. We will discuss about organic fertilizers very soon and we will give you some great formulas to make yourself the organic fertilizers or to use organic material for better crops.

[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertilizer

Fertilizers

2010-11-24T00:50:00.001+01:00

Fertilizers (or fertilisers) are substances that supply plant nutrients or amend soil fertility. They are the most effective means of increasing crop production and of improving the quality of food and fodder. Fertilizers are used in order to supplement the natural nutrient supply in the soil, especially to correct the (yield-limiting) minimum factor.

Fertilizers are soil amendments applied to promote plant growth; the main nutrients present in fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (the 'macronutrients') and other nutrients ('micronutrients') are added in smaller amounts. Fertilizers are usually directly applied to soil, and also sprayed on leaves ('foliar feeding').

Organic fertilizers or and some mined inorganic fertilizers have been used for many centuries, whereas chemically synthesized inorganic fertilizers were only widely developed during the industrial revolution. Increased understanding and use of fertilizers were important parts of the pre-industrial British Agricultural Revolution and the industrial green revolution of the 20th century. Inorganic fertilizer use has also significantly supported global population growth — it has been estimated that almost half the people on the Earth are currently fed as a result of artificial nitrogen fertilizer use.[1]

Fertilizers typically provide, in varying proportions:

the three primary macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).
the three secondary macronutrients: calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), magnesium (Mg).
and the micronutrients or trace minerals: boron (B), chlorine (Cl), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo) and selenium (Se).

Critical values are still quite useful and are frequently referred to when interpreting a plant analysis result. A brief discussion of the known critical values for the elements included in a plant analysis is given below:

Nitrogen (N)

The critical level of N in many plants is around 3 percent. For several crops, when the N level in leaves drops below 2.75 percent, N deficiency symptoms appear and yield and quality decline. The primary exceptions are for the very young plants when the critical level may be 4 percent or more, and for leguminous plants, such as soybeans, peanuts, alfalfa, etc., where the critical N percentage is 3 to 4.25 percent. For some tree fruits and ornamentals, N levels may be as low as 2 percent before deficiency occurs. Deficiencies as well as excesses can be a problem. Nitrogen leaf levels in some varieties of pecans exceeding 3.50 percent may result in early defoliation. Nitrogen leaf levels greater than 4.50 to 5 percent retard fruit set in greenhouse tomato. High N levels (>3.50 percent) in forage crops such as fescue is thought to be related to the incidence of grass tetany.

Small changes in N content for some crops can result in large effects on yield, plant growth, and the quality of forage and fruit. Therefore, it is important that the N level be maintained within the prescribed limits of the sufficiency range by the proper use of N fertilizer.

Phosphorus (P)

The P requirement of plants varies considerably. Tree crops have relatively low P requirements with the critical values ranging from 0.12 to 0.15 percent. Grasses have higher P requirements with critical values ranging from 0.20 to 0.25 percent. Legumes and some vegetable crops have relatively higher P requirements with critical values being 0.25 to 0.30 percent or slightly higher. Most plants grow to the extent to maintain a near constant P level within the plant. When a P deficiency occurs, it is usually due to a severe inadequacy of P in the soil solution, or in some cases it may be due to a restricted root system as a result of cool-moist growing conditions. Phosphorus deficiencies normally occur early in the growth cycle of the plant when the P requirement is high. The P content of plants is initially high and declines with age. Since P is a fairly mobile element in plants, deficiencies generally occur on older tissue.

The excess range of P is not clearly known. The P level in young plants can be very high such as 0.50 to 1.00 percent, but these high levels may reflect actual need. In some instances, high P plant levels may cause imbalances and deficiencies of other elements, such as Zn, Cu, Fe, etc. Plant P can be maintained within the sufficiency range by proper P fertilization and the maintenance of the soil P level within the medium to high soil test range.

Potassium (K)

The K requirement of plants varies widely depending on plant species. The tree crops such as pecans, peaches, apples, etc., have relatively low K requirements. The critical value for K in tree leaves ranges from 0.75 to 1.25 percent. For grasses, the K requirement is higher with the critical value in leaves ranging from 1.20 to 2.00 percent. For legumes, the critical value for K generally ranges from 1.75 to 2.00 percent. The K level in a plant can change quickly as K is quite mobile and moves readily within the plant. Potassium can be easily leached from growing plants by rain to be reabsorbed through the roots. Because of K mobility, both in the plant and soil, deficiency symptoms can develop quickly. Deficiencies frequently occur during both the early and latter stages of growth, particularly during fruiting. Young plants may contain 3.00 to 5.00 percent K, although the actual requirement may not be that high. Because it is mobile in the plant, K deficiency symptoms appear in the older plant tissue first. The K concentration in the plant decreases with age. Potassium balance in plants is important. The K/(Ca+Mg) and K/N balances must be maintained at a proper level to avoid deficiencies of Mg in the first instance and K in the second. High K can induce Mg deficiency in most plant and tree crops. Plants which are Mg deficient may have high K and Ca contents as the plant tends to maintain a constant cation concentration. As a result of these balance phenomena, heavy applications of K or N fertilizer, respectively, can induce a Mg or K deficiency. Under Georgia soil conditions, K deficiency is difficult to induce unless the K soil test level is low and the soil is heavily limed or fertilized with large quantities of N. The K to N balance is becoming increasingly important in pecans. As the N level in tree leaves increase, the K level must also be increased to maintain the proper balance and prevent K deficiency from occurring. Plant K can be maintained within the sufficiency range by proper K fertilization and the maintenance of the soil K level within the medium to high soil test range.

Magnesium (Mg)

Magnesium deficiency occurs in many plants when the leaf level is less than 0.10 to 0.15 percent. Small grains may exhibit deficiency symptoms when the Mg level is less than 0.10 percent. When corn is less than 12 inches in height, magnesium deficiency may occur when the Mg level is below 0.15 percent. However, as corn matures, deficiencies may not be evident until the Mg level is less than 0.13 percent. For legumes such as peanuts and soybeans, the critical level is 0.25 to 0.30 percent. The critical level for cotton and pecans is 0.30 percent. Several vegetable crops such as tomato, turnips, and collards have a high Mg requirement with the critical level near 0.40 percent Mg. Magnesium is a fairly mobile element in the plant, therefore, deficiency symptoms occur in the older plant tissue. The Mg concentration in the plant tends to increase with age.

Magnesium deficiencies can be induced by excessive K and NH4-N fertilization. When the soil pH is less than 5.4, Mg availability and uptake by plants is greatly reduced. The usual cause for Mg deficiency in Georgia is generally low soil pH and/or low soil Mg. Depending on the soil conditions, the effect of K and NH4-N fertilization can vary depending on the soil pH and level of soil Mg. Continued liming with only calcitic lime will result in a Mg deficiency. Adequate soil Mg can generally be maintained by liming with dolomitic limestone to keep the soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Supplemental applications of fertilizer Mg may be needed in some cases to supply some of the Mg crop requirement.

Sulfur (S)

It has been generally thought that the S requirement of plants was comparable to that of P. This has not proven to be so. The S requirement for grasses is quite low, the critical value being around 0.10 percent. Sulfur deficiencies in corn do not generally occur until the S level is less than 0.13 percent in the leaves. Under Georgia conditions, legumes, cotton, tobacco, and tomatoes have a critical S level of about 0.20 to 0.25 percent. The S critical level for crops such as cabbage, spinach, turnips, and collards is around 0.30 percent. However, additional research in this area should aid in pinpointing the critical level for these crops. There is a critical N to S percentage ratio which should be maintained. As suggested by Reneau (1983) the N:S ratio may be a better indicator of the S status of corn than the S concentration. For crops such as corn, this ratio should not exceed 18:1 if S deficiency is to be avoided. Stewart and Porter (1969) suggested that a N:S ratio above 16:1 indicates a lack of S may be limiting protein formation. A ratio of 20:1 or greater indicates that S is severely deficient. For optimum corn grain yields, the N:S ratio should be maintained between 10:1 to 15:1 (M. E. Sumner, personal communication). The optimum N:S ratio for Coastal bermudagrass ranges from approximately 9:1 to 12:1 (Martin and Matocho, 1973). Maintaining the N:S ratio within the range for optimum production of Coastal also provides the N:S ratio that is about optimum (10:1 to 15:1) for ruminant nutrition (Allaway and Thompson, 1966). Sulfur deficiencies occur primarily on the very sandy soils of South Georgia and when low S containing fertilizers are used over several years. Sulfur deficiencies tend to occur early in the plant growth cycle. The proper S level can be maintained in the plant by providing a S source near the germinating seed or by adding S with sidedress and topdress N applications particularly in sandy soils. Most Georgia subsoils contain sizeable quantities of S. Provided the pH is not too low when roots enter the subsoil, sufficient S will generally be available to satisfy the crop requirement.

Since S is not a mobile element in the plant, deficiency symptoms tend to first appear in the upper or newly emerging leaf tissue.

Calcium (Ca)

The Ca requirement for plants varies widely with grasses having the lowest requirement, legumes intermediate, and fruit crops and cotton the highest. Calcium levels from 0.20 to 0.25 percent are quite adequate for pasture grasses and corn. Soybean has a critical Ca concentration in the mature leaves of 0.50 percent, while the level for peanuts is 1.25 percent. Apple leaves should contain about 1 percent Ca and peach leaves 1.25 percent. Greenhouse tomato has a critical concentration for leaves of about 1 percent. Of the crops grown in Georgia, cotton probably has the highest critical Ca concentration at 2 percent for leaves.

Calcium deficiencies are not unusual, although the crops where Ca is particularly important are the fruit crops, such as apples, peaches, and tomato. Calcium deficiency will significantly affect fruit quality. Brown rots, easy bruising of fruit, and blossom-end rot of tomato are frequently associated with inadequate Ca. Pod-rot in peanuts is also a Ca deficiency. These deficiencies are not easily "uncovered" by leaf analysis. When Ca deficiency is severe, newly emerging tissue is affected. The margins of the leaves tend to stick together, giving a ragged edge to new leaves. Older leaves will show a browning of the margins. Since Ca is not a mobile element, deficiencies occur in the newer tissues. The Ca level in plants tends to increase with the age of the plant.

There is increasing evidence that Ca is more like a micronutrient, as the critical concentration may be in the parts per million range. Several plant physiologists have grown plants successfully at low Ca levels in artificial growth media. In these experiments, the balance of Ca with the other essential elements such as Mg, Cu, Fe, B, and Mn was critical. Calcium was found to be sufficient with plant and leaf concentrations between 600 ppm to 1000 ppm. It is known that relatively little Ca is in a soluble form in many plants. Crystals of calcium oxalate have been observed in the leaves of most fruit trees as well as some field crops which are thought to have high Ca requirements. Therefore, the sufficiency of Ca in such plants may be related to the soluble fraction in the leaves rather than the total. Unfortunately at this time, all of the current literature related to Ca and its sufficiency concentration are based on total Ca contents of sampled plant parts. No doubt there is need to change the method of analysis for Ca to determine the soluble Ca content and relate this to sufficiency range standards.

Manganese (Mn)

Manganese deficiency normally occurs when the leaf tissue concentration is less than about 15 ppm. Depending upon the crop, ample but not excessive concentrations of Mn may range from 15 to over 1,000 ppm. Although there is limited data to delineate when toxicity occurs, leaf levels in excess of several hundred ppm are probably toxic to many plants. Plants which are sensitive to Mn deficiency are equally sensitive to excessive Mn. Growth of soybeans, which are particularly sensitive to Mn deficiency, is reduced when leaf Mn levels approach 200 ppm (Ohki, 1976). Several plant species have higher Mn critical levels. For example, the critical Mn level for alfalfa is about 25 ppm.

Some plants can tolerate extremely high Mn levels without detrimental effects. Pecan leaves may contain up to 1000 ppm Mn with seemingly no adverse effect. Similarly, cotton and peanuts will accumulate Mn up to 500 ppm without apparent toxicity. However, a high Mn level in plants is a sign of low soil pH, and is frequently associated with Mg deficiency. When the Mn concentration in peach leaves exceeds 150 ppm, this is generally a good indication that the soil pH is low according to George Cummings.

The Mn level in plants is usually quite high at the initial period of growth. It decreases rather rapidly and then levels off to remain fairly constant during most of the season. Since Mn is not a mobile element, deficiency symptoms will occur in the newer leaves or upper portion of the plant.

Iron (Fe)

Iron analyses are probably invalid unless the leaf tissue has been washed in dilute acid or detergent solutions. Therefore, for unwashed leaves, iron analyses are of no real value. When soil contamination is suspected, usually Al is also high.

The Fe content in a plant can vary considerably. In general, when the Fe concentration in leaves is 50 ppm or less, deficiency is likely to occur. The grasses and corn have a lower Fe requirement, the critical level being 20 ppm. Iron toxicity has not been reported for any field crops growing under natural conditions in Georgia. The only Fe sensitive field crops would be pecans and soybeans, with possible deficiency occurring only on soils with pH's at 7.0 or above. Iron deficiency is common in Centipede grass and azaleas, particularly when grown in soils with pH's above 6.0

Iron deficiency is very difficult to correct in some crops. The application of some forms of Fe to the soil is not practical. Foliar applications of Fe have been found to be effective in correcting Fe deficiencies in plants such as turf grasses. However, on crops such as pecans, foliar applications for correction of low Fe levels have been erratic.

Since Fe is an immobile element in plants, Fe deficiencies appear in the new tissue or upper portion of the plant. Iron deficiency symptoms may appear early in the growth of the plant only to disappear in several days or weeks. The Fe level in the plant usually remains fairly constant during the growing season.

Boron (B)

Boron requirements vary considerably among crops. The optimum range in leaf tissue of most crops is from 20 to 100 ppm. Some crops are particularly sensitive to B and can be injured when the leaf B level is too high. For example, B levels in excess of 50 ppm have been associated with B toxicity in peaches. The B critical level for corn is about 4 ppm, while alfalfa, cotton, peanut,and soybeans have critical levels of 20 ppm. Corn, having a fairly low B requirement, is also sensitive to excess B. Toxicities may occur when the B level in young corn leaf tissue exceeds 25 ppm. Members of the Papilionaceae and Cruciferae have fairly high B requirements with critical levels being about 25 to 30 ppm B in the leaf tissue. Those plants which have fairly high B requirements are also ones with fairly good tolerance to excessive B. Boron is not a very mobile element and deficiency symptoms occur in the newly emerging tissue. The B concentration in leaves remains constant during the growth cycle. Boron deficiencies result in various physiological diseases in plants, such as "hollow heart" in peanuts, a fairly common disorder occurring in Georgia peanut fields.

Copper (Cu)

The normal range of Cu in many plants is fairly narrow, ranging from 5 to 20 ppm. When the Cu concentration in plants is less than 3 ppm in the dry matter, deficiencies are likely to occur. When Cu levels exceed 20 ppm in mature leaves, toxicities may occur. There is some variation in the critical values for various plant species; however, most critical values have been determined to be somewhere between 3 to 10 ppm for most crops. The Cu level in leaves tends to remain constant during the growing season.

Copper deficiency symptoms often depend on plant species or variety and the stage of deficiency. In the early stages of deficiency, symptoms are generally reduced growth. In the moderate to acute stages of deficiency on crops such as wheat, terminal or new leaves are pale green, lack turgor, and become rolled and yellowed; older leaves become limp and bent at the ligule. The leaves die and dry to a bleached gray (Reuther and Labanauskas, 1966).

Zinc (Zn)

The normal range of Zn in most plants is between 20 to 100 ppm. Zinc deficiencies occur in a wide variety of plants when the leaf level drops below 15 ppm. The critical Zn value for apple is about 14 ppm with the first symptom of the deficiency being small fruit size. Zinc deficiency in pecans occurs when the Zn leaf level is 30 ppm or less.

In order to avoid Zn deficiency, Zn levels in most crops should be maintained at 20 ppm or better, except for pecans when 50 ppm Zn is the desired minimum.

Zinc toxicity is an uncommon problem and does not generally occur until the Zn level exceeds 200 ppm. However, in crops such as peanuts, Zn toxicity has been reported in Georgia when tissue levels reach 220 ppm (Keisling and others, 1977). More recently (Parker and Walker, 1986) reported that Zn levels up to 287 ppm did not adversely affect peanut yields nor show any of the symptoms associated with Zn toxicity. However, the author has observed plants exhibiting Zn toxicity symptoms, described by Keisling and others (1977), with Zn concentrations of 117 ppm. Apparently, there are other plant growth factors or nutrient relationships in addition to just the Zn concentration that affect the manifestation of Zn toxicity. One such relationship appears to be the Ca:Zn ratio in the tissue. Upon evaluating unpublished data of Parker in which the Zn concentration in tissue varied from 50 to 302 ppm, and Zn concentrations could not be related to Zn toxicity, the author noted that when the Ca:Zn ratio was less than approximately 45 to 50:1 Zn toxicity symptoms were evident. However, when the ratio was greater, where the Zn concentration was 302 ppm, no toxicity symptoms were detected. Continued research in this area should elucidate the nature of this relationship. Excessive Zn also interferes with the normal function of Fe in plants giving rise to symptoms similar to Fe deficiency.

Zinc is not a very mobile element in plants, and deficiency symptoms occur in the newly emerging leaves. Stunting is a frequent symptom associated with Zn deficiency. Zn concentration in leaves remains fairly constant with a fairly rapid increase at the end of the growth cycle.

Aluminum (Al)

Aluminum is not considered a plant nutrient; therefore, it is not required by plants. However, its presence in plants can affect the normal function of some other elements. As with Fe, probably no accurate measure of the Al status of the plant can be obtained unless the tissue is free from dust and soil contamination. High Al in plants is usually an indication of very low soil pH or poor soil aeration due to compaction or flooding. Aluminum levels in excess of 400 ppm in young tissue or 200 ppm in mature plants and leaves are undesirable.

Molybdenum (Mo)

Molybdenum deficiencies occur in many plants when the plant concentration is less than 0.10 ppm. Toxicity levels in plants have not been established. Molybdenum is quite toxic to animals if the forage being consumed contains more than 15 ppm Mo. The Mo requirement of legumes is higher than that of other plants since Mo is essential for the fixation of atmospheric N by the symbiotic bacteria. For the non-legumes, Mo is probably not needed if all the N requirement is supplied by the ammonium form. Molybdenum is essential for the conversion of nitrates to ammonium in the plant. In Georgia, Mo application has been found beneficial for alfalfa, particularly when the soil pH is low. The need for Mo on soybeans has also been confirmed in Georgia, particularly on the heavier Piedmont, Mountain, and Limestone Valley soils which are low (approximately 5.5 or less) in pH. Significant responses to Mo application have not been consistent on Coastal Plain soils. [2]

Citations
[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertilizer#Inorganic_fertilizer_.28synthetic_fertilizer.29
[2] http://aesl.ces.uga.edu/publications/plant/Nutrient.htm#N

Soil mixes for plant propagation and germinating seeds

2010-11-23T23:05:00.001+01:00

For propagation of your plants and for seed germination indoors or in a greenhouse you will need different types of soil. Some seeds are sensitive to the type of soil and the diseases related to the ground and this means that they can best germinate in a soilless substrate. In addition, most of the cuttings prefer a soil-less substrate. Nevertheless, there are seeds that require immediately nutrients and then they are the best seeded in a rich soil mixture. On this blog we will make often references to these particularities.

Ingredients for your soil mixes will be shown below.

Leaf mold

It is obtained from rotting leaves and it has a high cationic exchange capacity, good mineral content but it is missing macronutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium). It has a lower pH and may contain agents for diseases. It should always be sterilized. Coarse texture is best used in rooting media or potting mixes.

Well rotten compost

Compost

Compost results after the decaying organic material under the influence of fungi and bacteria. Because of the existence of microorganism it may protect your plants against diseases. It has a high cationic exchange capacity and a good balance between macronutrients and minerals.

Fine washed river sand

Fine sand

It is used for a better drainage of your soil because the sand grains have different sizes and the water is drained quicker leaving air spaces in between. It is inert and it does not contain any nutrients. Use always washed sand and never use sand from the beach because it contains killing amounts of salt.

Grit

Grit or coarse sand

Use always washed grit or coarse sand to improve drastically the aeration and drainage of your mixes. It mostly used for the rooting of cacti and other desert plants that require a more open medium.

A brick of dehydrated cocopeat

Coconut fibres / coco peat

Usually are sold in forms of dehydrated bricks that need to be rehydrated before use. It is derived from composted coconut shells and it is good replacement for less fine sphagnum moss in soilless substrates.

Perlite

Perlite

It is resulted from expanded volcanic rocks. It retains the water good and because it is inert it also drains water quickly. It is used in sterile mixes to improve drainage and aeration.

Potting soil

Potting soil

Use soil of the best quality for seed germination and plant propagation. The soil must free of any other seeds, insects eggs. This soil is used for rich soil mixes.

Coir

Coir is a fibre resulted from coconut husks used as peat substitute. It dries out less quickly that peat but
requires more feeding. It is a good base for soilless mixes.


Peat

Peat

Is stable, long lasting and well aerated and retains the water well, but low in nutrients. It is difficult to re-humidify once it has gone dry. It is used for lightweight mixes intended for short use.

Dried and groud moss

Sphagnum moss

Sphagnum moss

Do not use coarse sphagnum moss in propagation for this is intended mostly as an orchid medium. Use finely ground sphagnum moss for soil mixes intended for seed germination and semi-coarse for cuttings media.

Vermiculite (magnified photo)

Vermiculite

It is expanded and air-blown mica. It contains traces of Magnesium and has high cationic exchange capacity. Acts similarly as perlite but holds more water and less air. It supports drainage and aeration. It comes in various degress of grinding. Some of the finest are used on the top part of the substrate as a physical barrier against harmful bacteria and fungi.

Fine bark

Fine bark or chipped barked is used as peat substitute or for free draining acidic mixtures, especially for orchids, palms and other indoor plants.

Recipes for mixes

Making your own mix has the advantage of knowing what your mix contains. Accordingly, you can realize the ideal medium for a specific type of propagation technique or plant. You can find in the shops ready-made soil mixes generically Seeding and Cutting Soil Mix. When you mix your substrate, hygiene is very important. Use only clean tools and sterilized soil.

How to sterilize soil?

If you are planning to use garden soil in your mixes it is crucial that you sterilize it before incorporating it. Sterilization will kill possible harmful organisms that could affect seedling and cuttings. To do this the soil must sifted to remove clumps, stones and any other residue, but also to obtain a finer structure. Sterilizing garden soil for commercial use is done in special units. These are expensive and unnecessary for home use. An oven or a microwave would do just fine.

For soil sterilization in an oven you will need a deep baking tray, of about 8 to 10 cm. Bake the soil for about 30 minutes on 200 degrees C. You should know that unpleasant badly-smelling vapours may be released.

In order to sterilize soil in the microwave you need a roasted bag, resistant to high temperatures. After soil is inserted seal the top of the bag to avoid the contamination of the microwave. However, make a few holes and place in the oven for 10 minutes on maximum power.

Observation: some of the substrate mixes cited below, require some addition of non-biological nutrients. You may avoid using those mineral nutrients by excluding them from the mixes. Later on we will publish some ways in which you can obtain your own biological fertilizers.

Substrate recipes for potting mixes, rooting media and seeding mixes.

Rich potting mix	Soilless potting mix	Soil based seeding mix
2 parts compost 1 part potting soil 1 part sand 1 part vermiculite 1 part perlite	3 parts peat or substitute 1 part sand or perlite For each 36 liters add 14 g ammonium nitrate 28 g potassium nitrate 45 g superphosfate 85 g ground limestone 85 g dolomitic limestone	2 parts potting soil 1 part peat or substitute 1 part sand
7 parts potting soil 3 parts peat or substitute 2 parts sand For every 36 litres add 113g general purpose slow release fertilizer and 21 g limestone	3 parts peat or substitute 1 part sand or perlite For each 36 liters add 14 g ammonium nitrate 28 g potassium nitrate 45 g superphosfate By avoiding the use of limestone you will obtain an acidic composition	2 parts potting soil 1 part peat or substitute 1 part sand For each 36 litres you may also add 42g superphosfate 21 g ground limestone
7 parts acidic potting soil 3 parts peat or substitute 2 parts sand For every 36 litres add 113g general purpose slow release fertilizer This potting mix is used for acidophile plants.		2 parts potting soil 1 part peat or substitute 1 part sand For each 36 litres you may also add 42g superphosfate

Soilless seeding mix	Soilless rooting media	Sterile substrate
3 parts peat or substitute 1 part fine bark 1 part perlite For each 36 litres add 36 g trams of slow release fertilizer	1 part peat or substitute 1 part sand (or perlite or vermiculite)	1 part finely ground Sphagnum Moss 1 part perlite
1 part perlite 1 part vermiculite 2 parts finely ground sphagnum moss	1 part peat 1 part fine bark To each 36 litres add 36 g of slow release fertilizer	1 part cocopeat 1 part perlite
	1 part peat 1 part fine bark 1 part perlite To each 36 litres add 36 g of slow release fertilizer

Growing Belgian endive

2010-11-23T17:49:00.001+01:00

Is also known as French endive, witloof in Dutch, witlo(o)f in the United States, chicory in the UK, as witlof in Australia, endive in France, and chicon in parts of northern France and in Wallonia. Growing Belgian presuposes actually forcing the roots of the plants cultivated early during the year.

People who like Belgian endive like it so much they grow it twice. In fact, they have no choice. Endive, perhaps the most famous member of the chicory family, is grown in two stages, once for the roots, and a second time for its yellow and white leaves. It is a particularly welcome member of the family in that it can produce crunchy salads throughout the entire winter if you grow enough roots.

Plant endive seeds in spring (early June, for most places) in rich soil, two rows per 30 inch (0.76 meter) bed, 6 inches (15 cm) apart. Plants will grow upwards forming lush green foliage. After 110-130 days, gently unearth the roots with a digging fork being careful not to break or damage them. They are the "business end" of the plant and the storehouse of energy for the second phase of growth. Cut off the leaves to within an inch or two (2-4 cm) or so and add the leaves to your compost pile. Trim the roots down to a uniform length of 6-8 inches (15-20 cm).

Pack the roots upright in a bucket or pail and fill around them with sand, if you have it, or loose sandy soil if you don't. Regular soil or peat can also be used, but it is difficult to use for filling in the gaps. Cover and store pails in the coolest location available. If you don't have a dark enough room, just use 2 flowerpots, one to hold the roots and another to put on top, to provide you with a dark growing area. Three weeks before you want to enjoy your first endive feast, move the bucket to a 50-60 degree (10-15 celsius) location within your house adding water, if necessary. It's better to have it too wet than too dry. Keep the bucket covered so as not to allow light through. Darkness is what keeps the leaves white. Within a few days, new growth will begin to appear. Check on your bucket from time to time. Roughly three weeks after stage 6, you should be able to cut your first endive salad. If you started with thick, stocky roots, cut them as you did in step 3 as you may be able to get a second harvest from them. Don't worry if your endives don't hold together tightly in a conical form, the flavor will be the same.

Enjoy your harvest !

Seeds

2010-11-23T17:47:00.001+01:00

In this post I will be discussing about seeds, which is the structure of the seed, how do seeds germinated, why certain seeds germinate quicker than others, why some seeds need to be chilled, or put in acids or even burnt in order to stimulate germination, why certain seeds lose their viability.

What is a seed?

A seed is a small embryonic plant enclosed in a covering called the seed coat, usually with some stored food. It is the product of the ripened ovule of gymnosperm (coniferous) and angiosperm (flowering plants) plants which occurs after fertilization and some growth within the mother plant. The formation of the seed completes the process of reproduction in seed plants (started with the development of flowers and pollination), with the embryo developed from the zygote and the seed coat from the integuments of the ovule.

Which type of seed exist?

Some seeds are closed in a fruit like those of apples or pears, other are open like those from pine cones.
Although there various types of seeds we will be talking about seeds which have two cotyledons and one cotyledon. From this point of view there is a division among plants: those who produce seeds with two cotyledons (like beans or peanuts) or those who produce seeds with one cotyledon (corn, wheat). On the evolution scale we know that plants with one cotyledon appeared more recently than plants with two cotyledons.

What is a seed made of? Which are the parts of the seed?

A seed is a plant in miniature. It has a larger storage area (cotyledon, endosperm) where it keeps its food reserve for germination, it has also an embryo (the miniature plant) and a coat (for protection). Less than 2% of a seed is water. Compare this with 95% which is the quantity of water in a mature herbaceous plant. It is the low water content that protects the seed from frost.

How does germination occur?

When the seeds find the ideal condition the environment, they begin to germinate. First of all their coat is moisten with water and it becomes softer. As soon as the water begins to penetrate the coat and it reaches the embryo, if the seed is viable, the embryo reacts and begins to develop into a plant. First the seed will grow roots that which continue to absorb more water.

Which are the steps of the germination?

Once the coat has been broken, because of the contact with, water the seed will grow roots. A seed is like a sponge, is capable of retaining water. The roots have very fine hairs which help in water absorption. Once the small root is grown then the main stem begins to develop. At this point plants are not capable of photosynthesis and they take their food from the energy stored in their seed (in endosperm and cotyledons). In contact with water the substances (starch, proteins and fats) saved in these storage parts of the seed begin to break down into more simple compounds necessary for the nutrition of the new plant. Once the main stem reaches the surfaces of the soil they, under the influence of light they begin photosynthesis and develop further. They become greener and the leaves will become bigger. The roots continue to absorb water and nutrients from the soil and these are transported to the leaves, where under the influence of light they process this absorbed resources into food necessary for further development of the plant.

What happens with seed once the plant has grown above the ground and begins photosynthesis?

By that time, probably most of the energy reserves are depleted. Certain parts of the seeds may transform into leaves. This is obvious at plants with two cotyledons. This metamorphose ensure that the plants can begin earlier the process of photosynthesis. This first leaves are often named embryonal leaves or false leaves. In the left photos you can see how certains parts a seed metamorphosed.

The photo on the right shows you a healthy seedling of a pumpkin (Curcubita maxima). The cotyledons are transformed into two parallel large leaves (embryonal leaves), capable of photosynthesis, while in the center of the plant the first real leave begins its development.
Why my seedlings are growing long and frail? Why do my seedlings collapse after a while?

This happens when the young seedlings do not have enough light to sustain reliable photosynthesis. If you start a plant from seed in the dark, it will grow using the energy resources. It will grow high looking for light but it will be very fragile. Once the energy source from the seed is depleted the plants will die because they are not able to sustain themselves.
These very youg seedlings of Aster look frail because they dont receive enough light. They are not growing upwards because they twist after the light. The window pane inside a house might be the ideal place to start seeds, but once the seeds germinated need to be moved to a lighter and a colder place.

Do all plants need light in order to germinate?

No. Germination of certain plants is not related to light. Some plants need complete darkness in order to germinate. Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) is this type of plant.

Why certain seeds do not germinate at all?

Certain seeds have a short viability. This means that embryo inside stays alive only for a short while. This is a way in which plants determine that most viable embryos will produce the most viable plants. Certain seeds, like those from cocoa (Theobroma cacao) remain viable only for a few days, while other like those from wild poppies remain viable for decennia. Some other seeds simply do not have an embryo to germinate. This is mostly the case of some modern hybrids of vegetables and decorative plants.

How do the seeds lose their viability?

The seeds lose the capacity to germinate if they become completely dry. This is seeds are kept in lower temperature conditions in the seed banks all over the world.

Why the collected seeds from a certain plant refuse to germinate or take a longer time to germinate?

Plants like any other living organism are determined to conserve their species and survival. This is why certain seeds refuse to germinate immediately. If an acorn would germinate immediately then the winter frost would destroy the young plants. This is the case with the seeds of most deciduous trees. So certain plants purposely delay the germination of their seeds. This is done by providing the seed with a thicker coat, or certain chemicals etc.

Why would plants delay their germination?

Although it may annoying for horticulturist, plants seek the best condition for their flourishing. At the same time plants look after themselves, in the sense that desire to conserve their species. Staggered germination occurs only because of these reasons.

How do plants stagger germination?

One interesting scientific observation is the case of allelopathy (in Greek, "mutual suffering"). Certain plants, like the walnut tree eliminate competition by saturating the neighbouring region with substances than impede germination of its own seeds or even other plants. It is supposed that the roots of the plants release allelochemicals, and this is why farmers cannot grow other crops under walnut trees.

Certain plants produce seeds that can germinate only under specific wavelengths of light. Sunlight is composed of various colours (wavelenghts) Certain seeds desire only red light in order to germinate. In a forest were the canopy is dense, the red light is filtered by the leaves of other plants. A seed that rests on the floor of that forest may wait for years until one of the trees dies, creating thus an open space. When it receives the necessary light will start to germinate. This is mostly the case of evergreen rain forests.

Certain seeds need to be ingested by animals and birds and carried away for miles and miles. In this way plants ensure a wider propagation. However, in order to protect the embryo inside, the coat of the seed is thicker and has to withstand the action of gastric acids from the digestive systems of those animals. Once the seeds are eliminated, and the coat is scarified by the action of these acids, the seed is ready to germinate.

Another unusual requirement for the germination of some seeds is that to be scarified by fire. This treatment applies only to seeds with a thick coat and it is common only among the species living in areas where periodic lightning-fires are part of the balance of the nature. The plants known under the generic name of chapparal are known to germinate under these conditions. After the fire has passed the coat of the seed is scorched and as soon as the first rain comes in they begin to germinate, taking the place of their burnt to death mother plants.

When attempted to grow species of desert flowers, it has been shown that freshly collected seeds germinated the best when they were put for a week in an oven at about 50 degrees Celsius. This actually simulated their native environment. This happens during the summer months in certain desserts. During the winter months, the rains come in and the plants have better conditions for developing and then the seeds would germinate.

The horticulturists often mimic the general conditions of the native geographical areas of the in order to ensure a good germination. Sometimes this proves to be a real challenge. However, in a future article I will discuss about various methods of simulation.

Gratin of Kohlrabi (German turnip) and potatoes

2010-11-23T17:27:00.001+01:00

A plant in the season is kohlrabi or German turnip. Collect them and do not allow them to long on the shelves because they will become too tough.

1 onion
2 cloves of garlic
1/2 bunch of fresh thyme
1 big of 2 small koolrabi's
400 g flowery boiling potatoes
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
200 g cream
Juice of 1/2 lemon.

Cut the onion and garlic in fine pieces.
Pick the washed leaves of the thym.
Blend the onion, garlic and thym.
Cut the well pealed kohlrabi in fine slices.
Cut the washed and pealed potatoes in slices.
Put the potatoes and the kohlarabi in layers in an ovenresistant dish.
On each layer, put some of the onion, garlic and thym mix.
Whisk the juice of the lemon in the cream and poor it on the top of the dish.
Put it about 25 minutes in the middle of an oven (200°C) or microwave to cook and get goldbrown.

Add with a mixed salad. Lambschops are a also a good combination with this dish.

Essential tools and equipment for gardening

2010-11-23T10:59:00.001+01:00

Although it is winter and the work in the garden may seem to come to a rest, now is the time to plan our patches for the next year. We are intending to transform this blog in an easy encyclopaedia. We want to introduce you into the main terms and further on we will insert articles on botany of the plants, plants themselves, seeding calendar, tricks and tips. This initial part may be boring but we consider it important.

The table below will show you some of the equipment and tools that you will need in the garden and the use of them.

Name	Photo	Description and purpose
Spade		Used to dig or loosen the soil or to break the clumps in the soil. The handle of the spade should reach the same height as your hip
Fork		A digging fork should have the same dimensions as the spade. Instead of a spit, it should have four sharp spikes. They are used to loosen the soil, remove the roots of perennial weeds, lift the root crops, flowering bulbs and tubers etc.
Swan necked English hoe		This is used for deeper hoeing and cultivation, by breaking the soil clods and weeding with a chopping action. It used to make narrow seed trenches with the corner of the blade, or with the entire blade to make wider trenches.
Dutch hoe		This cuts the weeds above the surface, being very useful between the rows of young veggies.
Rake		It is used for light weeding, loosening and levelling bare patches for cultivation. May be use also as a comb to remove stones, pieces of wood etc.
Secateurs/ Pruners		This scissor-like tool has a thick blade which is hard enough to cut off smaller branches or to take wood cuttings for rooting. It can have to sharp blades, or it can have one sharp blade, while the other is used as anvil.
Knife		It is useful in everyday task in the garden, opening boxes, sacks etc.
Hand fork		It is used for weeding, planting adding fertilizers etc.
Dibber		It is a pointed wooden stick used for making holes in the ground for seeding, transplanting leek plants, planting bulbs etc.
String line	See above	This is used to determine a straight line for row planting. This is easy to do it yourself.
Seed / Planting rule		It is a ruler used to determine the distance between seeds or plants.
Watering can		A long nozzled watering can allows water to flow gently and it is good for reaching across the rows or pots. It is important to have one with a detachable fine sprinkler for watering the young seedling. Also you may use two cans. A smaller one for seedling and a bigger one for other crops.
Soil riddle		A riddle is usually a cylindrical or rectangular with a mesh wire used for collecting debris, clumps, stones from the soil.
Wheelbarrow		Are designed for single person use. The one wheel models are the most easy to work with in small spaces.
Gloves		Provide protection against infections, bacteria, sharp stones. Choose a pair that is a good fit to ensure a better grip. You may have a second pair for handling roses and other dangerous, spiky garden material or plants.
Twine		It is a strong thread composed of several thing strands or yarns. Because usually is made out of hemp fibre, it may be composted after use.
Pump spray		Sprayers can be used in watering fragile seeds, distributing foliar feeds and spraying pesticides and insecticides and misting plants that require a higher air humidity level. Keep in mind that a separate sprayer it is required for each type of use.

It is important to keep your tools clean after use. For the metallic tools such as spades, forks it is required to wash and dry them after use and apply them a seasonal treatment to impede rust. Keep all your equipment away from sun and rain in order to ensure them a longer life. The wheelbarrow should be turned upside down to avoid water collecting and spade should not be kept fast in the ground because it will rust more easily.

Polka Dots Plant

2010-11-22T17:33:00.000+01:00

Scientific name: Hypoestes phyllostachya
Common name: Polka Dots Plant
Images: see below

Plant description: shrub-like, dark green leaves, pink/white dots
Origin: Madagascar
Type: perennial, for indoor growth
annual, in the garden
Size: stems of about 30 cm. Prune it regularly, in order to prevenit it from becoming thin and leggy.
Light: moderate light.
Light is important for the plant to achieve its optimum colour. However, it should not receive more than 5 h of direct sunlight.
Temperature: 16-28 degrees centigrade
Soil: general purpose soil, that drains well
Watering: keep the soil moist.
Mist daily
Fertilizing: do not fertilize
Flowers: small, purple-pink, in late summer/autumn season
Flowers are negligible in comparison to the foliage. Pluck the flowers in order to have bushy leaves.
Propagation: stem cuttings, seeds
Use the stems left from pruning in order to make new plants.
It is also very easy to start the plant from seeds.
Pests: prone to whitefly, aphids and scale.

Pumpkin soup for late autumnal mood

2010-11-22T17:08:00.001+01:00

Pumpkins have been already picked and they continue to ripe on a dry cold shelf. This will bring out the sweetness and the unique taste. You know pumpkins are those types of presents from Mother Nature, that are not supposed to be consumed immediately after picking. They become tastier and better throughout the winter months.

Serves 4 people.
You need a pumpkin of about 1,5 kg.2 small chopped onions.
2-3 cloves of garlic roughly chopped, just the same quantity of ginger finely chopped.
A mix of herbs from Provence, nothing complicated, thyme, rosemary, savory.
Keep some olive oil aside.
Pepper, salt.
50 ml of cognac, or scotch any digestive would do.250 ml double cream.200 -250 chicken stock.1 pinch of cinnamon powder (optional)
Cut the pumpkin and remove the seeds and the lose threads until the neat flesh is revealed. Using a spoon, scoop out most of the flesh and put it in a casserole. Add in a deep pan olive oil, turn the heat on medium, add the garlic and ginger and the onion and bring all these to glazing. Then add the pumpkin flesh and the chicken stock, season with salt and pepper and let it boil until it becomes soft.Then just blend everything together.Add the alcohol, the cream, the herbs and if you like the cinnamon, stir and bring to simmering for up to 5 minutes.Do not allow the content to boil otherwise the cream will become buttery!Pour in soup bowls, decorate with some herb leaves and Bon Apetit!

Plants which indicate the type of the soil

2010-11-22T14:54:00.001+01:00

The table below comprises some of the most popular indigenous weeds. They are also indicators of the type and quality of the soil when they are wildy growing.

Name of the plant	Photo	What do they show?	Observations
Field Bindweed (Convolvus arvensis)		Heavy clay soil, rich in Nitrogen	Avoid using the rotary tiller because it multiplies the fragments of the rhizomes which root very quickly.
Lawn Daisy (Bellis perennis)		Clay soil with an acidic tendency	This plant is not at all competing with the others.
Smooth Pigweed (Amaranthus hybridus)		Soil rich in Nitrogen	The plant produces many seeds and becomes quickly invasive.
Common Broom (Cytisus scoparius)		Acid soil, often sandy	Usually good soils for strawberries and asparagus.
Common Dandelion (taraxacum officinale)		Heavy clay soil, rather compact, rich in organic matter.	While it is not competing with other plants, it still needs to be removed completely from the ground.
Couch grass (Elytrigia spp)		Exhausted soil, too mechanically cultivated, too rich in potassium and nitrogen	Avoid using the rotary tiller because each fragment produces a new plant.
Common purslane (Portulaca oleracea)		Sandy soil which does not retain water, showing first signs of erosion	Rather a Southern type of plant which can be consumed fresh or prepared. Rich in vitamins.
Common Horsetail (Equisetum arvensis)		Wet soil, insufficinetly aerated	Horsetail indicates that a high flow of water.
Wild carrot (Daucus carota)		Lime dry soil	Do not remove all the plants because it is a host for various useful butterflies and insects.
Flanders poppy (Papaver rhoeas)		Humus rich soil	Indicates a good agricultural soil.

Know your soil

2010-11-22T13:39:00.001+01:00

This is the time when you can best evaluate what type of soil you have in your garden or allotment. This is important because certain plants have a preference for a particular type of soil, while the others will recede. We will discuss about certain important features of the soil like: profile, texture, pH, fertility and living organisms. The quality of the soil determines the quality of your products.
The profile of the soil is the represented by several different layers:

The highest layer may be litter, this is clearly seen in the forests and it is the result of falling leaves and other parts of the plants living in the area.
Just under the litter it is the humus. It is usually darker, finer and well drained. It is composed mostly by mineral parts and organic parts. Most of the organic part of the soil is found in the upper layer, ideally somewhere between 60 – 90 cm.
The upper layer is a mixture of organic and inorganic matter, lighter in colour less fertile. The roots of the plants are digging through this layer looking for food, still.
Underground it is the lower part of the soil. It is more compact, it may contain stones or water, it lacks aeration and roots receive less oxygen. Most of the fruit trees expand their radicular system into this layer.
Underground may rest of different type of rocks which are impenetrable and they do not offer a source of food. Sometimes the roots of the tress may go around the blocks of stone to seek support. In other parts, near the rivers, this part may be always waterlogged and the survival of the roots of the plants is impossible.

In the left picture you are shown a soil profile or a grass land. This is not the ideal profile that you like to have in the garden, because the humus layer is not thick enough (the darker part). The deeper you go, the lighter the soil it gets. This is because deep soil lacks organic matter.

The texture of the soil may or not be identical in a garden. It all depends on the plants that were previously cultivated, the original features and the improvements given to the soil. The size of the particles forming the soil determines its texture. From this point of view we may classify the soil into three categories: clay soils, sandy soils, loamy soils.

Clay soils

Are composed of very fine particles of sand of the size of 2 microns. This is about 100000 times smaller than a normal grain of sand. These soils are heavy, they tend to be on the wet side and they keep water and nutrients very well. The drawback is that they are compact and difficult to work and many of the plants will have difficulties in developing their roots. Also during the dry spells, the soils tend to dry forming light grey rocky blocks, difficult to break apart. They have a tendency to waterlogging and extra-care should be given to the overwintering plants, because it facilitates rotting of the roots. In addition they warm up slowly during the spring and seed germination is delayed.
Sandy soils

They are just the opposite of the clay soils. They are composed mostly of sand, which has the capacity of being airy and oxygen reaches easier the roots of the plants. However they have a low water and nutrient retention. Certain root plants (like carrots, or potatoes) will flourish in these grounds provided that they receive regulate feeding and watering. They warm up quickly during the spring and they can be worked easy.
Loamy soils.

They are crumbly rich organic grounds, with good water retention and light structure. They are the best soil you can have in your garden, because they are composed of a good ratio of humus, clay and sand.
The ideal soil for the garden is composed of 65% sand, 10 % lime and 5 % humus. It is supple, crumbly, easy to work, had good water retention without the risk of becoming waterlogged.

How to determine your soil texture?
Look at your soil, take some samples. If you can make out of your soil a sphere, and while you shaping it you are reminded of Plasticine then you most probably have a clay soil. If it is sandy it loses shape immediately and if you have loam you will see that it is crumbly and the surface of your sphere is not regular.
pH. Is your soil alkaline or acidic?
pH measures whether your soil is bitter or sour, alkaline or acidic. pH is measured on a scale from 0 to 14. The lower the pH value, the more acidic the substance, the higher the value the more alkaline the substance is. For instance, lemon juice has a pH of 2, orange juice a pH of 3 and tomato juice a pH of 4, while sea water has a pH of 8, backing soda of 9, bleech of 13. The neutral value stands at 7. That is the pH of distilled water.

Because of the composition of the soil, normally, the garden soils fall between 4.5 and 7.5. Certain plants, like Hortensias, Rhododendrons and Azaleas prefer rather acidic soils, others, like cabbages, more alkaline. Most of the garden plants flourish at pH of 6.5, so a very slightly acidic soil. While is relatively easy to increase the pH of the soil by adding lime, the things are not so simple when you desire to lower the pH.
The pH of the soil is important because the plants are able to absorb nutrients they need only under specific pH conditions. If the pH is too high or too low, certain nutrients, even if they exist in the soil, they practically unavailable to the plants. The attached diagram shows the availability of certain nutrients according to the pH of the soil.
Fertility of the soil is determined by five aspects: air, water, pH, organic matter and mineral nutrients. A fertile soil is rich in major nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium), has sufficient quantities of mineral nutrients also called minor or oligo-nutrients (boron, chlorine, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, magnesium, molybdenum, sulphur, and zinc), it has a good pH (usually 6.5). It is rich also in organic matter which has the capacity of making the soil lighter, easier to cultivate and contributes to drainage and water retention. A fertile soil is not only able to retain water but also has the capacity to avoid waterlogging. Air is important for the developing of the roots. Without air, the roots simply suffocate and then rot and the entire plant is compromised.

The soil is a true ecosystem by being the siege of intricate alimentary chains. The organisms in the soil participate actively in furnishing a good quality soil by their way of feeding themselves. The woodlouse, myriapoda, larvae of the flies and termites are fragmenting the organic matter. Certain mites, springtails and termites continue the fragmentation of organic matter in even smaller compounds. Beetles and their larvae, fungi, nematodes, worms and bacteria continue the fragmentation to even simpler compounds, making them available for the roots of the plants. At the same time ants, moles, slowworms, voles, termites are digging and making small tunnels in the ground, making it more airy. However some of these organisms may prove to be dangerous itself. Snails are feeding themselves on the crops but they are enriching the humus with organic matter once they are dead. Earthworms, although they are not directing menacing the crops, while they are digging tunnels underground can bring diseases and viruses to the roots of the plants. On the market exist a large assortment of chemicals destined to destroy all the insects in the ground, however this not ecological, and on long term these chemicals unbalance the healthy ecosystem of the soil.

Hardiness zones

2010-11-20T15:10:00.001+01:00

This is a tool firstly used in America that shows a geographically determined area in which a species of plants is capable of flourishing under the specific climatic conditions of that area. It is mostly used to determine whether or not in that geographical area a particular plant is able to withstand the lowest temperatures during the winter. The temperature scale of hardiness zones is situated between two temperature extremes -54°C to more than 13°C. Most of continental Europe is situated between zone 5 and 10.

The table below shows the hardiness zone according to minimum temperature.

Zone		From	To
0	a	< −53.9 °C (−65 °F)
0	b	−51.1 °C (−60 °F)	−53.9 °C (−65 °F)
1	a	−48.3 °C (−55 °F)	−51.1 °C (−60 °F)
1	b	−45.6 °C (−50 °F)	−48.3 °C (−55 °F)
2	a	−42.8 °C (−45 °F)	−45.6 °C (−50 °F)
2	b	−40 °C (−40 °F)	−42.8 °C (−45 °F)
3	a	−37.2 °C (−35 °F)	−40 °C (−40 °F)
3	b	−34.4 °C (−30 °F)	−37.2 °C (−35 °F)
4	a	−31.7 °C (−25 °F)	−34.4 °C (−30 °F)
4	b	−28.9 °C (−20 °F)	−31.7 °C (−25 °F)
5	a	−26.1 °C (−15 °F)	−28.9 °C (−20 °F)
5	b	−23.3 °C (−10 °F)	−26.1 °C (−15 °F)
6	a	−20.6 °C (−5 °F)	−23.3 °C (−10 °F)
6	b	−17.8 °C (0 °F)	−20.6 °C (−5 °F)
7	a	−15 °C (5 °F)	−17.8 °C (0 °F)
7	b	−12.2 °C (10 °F)	−15 °C (5 °F)
8	a	−9.4 °C (15 °F)	−12.2 °C (10 °F)
8	b	−6.7 °C (20 °F)	−9.4 °C (15 °F)
9	a	−3.9 °C (25 °F)	−6.7 °C (20 °F)
9	b	−1.1 °C (30 °F)	−3.9 °C (25 °F)
10	a	−1.1 °C (30 °F)	+1.7 °C (35 °F)
10	b	+1.7 °C (35 °F)	+4.4 °C (40 °F)
11	a	+4.4 °C (40 °F)	+7.2 °C (45 °F)
11	b	+7.2 °C (45 °F)	+10 °C (50 °F)
12	a	+10 °C (50 °F)	+12.8 °C (55 °F)
12	b	> +12.8 °C (55 °F)

This is a very good table to determine the hardiness zone of the area where you live. For example, if you recall, or you can determine the lowest temperature in your area for the last 30 years, then can find out which is your hardiness zone. For instance, mine is 8a. This means that the lowest temperature in my town was -11 degrees. Most of European region are situated between hardiness zones 5 – 10.

Many of the cultivated plants are in fact grown outside their original hardiness zone. Tomatoes cannot withstand frost at all. This makes them a zone 10b plants. However, their cultivated as annuals in other, colder zones. Sometimes if a microclimate is created then the temperature can vary outside the hardiness zone.

Warm yourself up with deliciously flavoured tea

2010-11-19T22:57:00.000+01:00

Black tea with milk and cardamon

This recipe is very simple, and it can work as a delicious substitute for coffee. After preparing black tea, add milk, as much as to suit your taste. Add cardamon pods. They will give your tea a warm taste, slightly resembling Eucalyptus. Play with spices! You may use ginger, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, fennel seeds, or a mixture of these.

My tip: Try it with phistachio seeds or fresh hazelnuts

Rooibos with milk and cocoa

Rooibos may not be everyone's cup of tea, but for those of you who like it, here's a recipe ideal for rainy, cold days. When preparing the Rooibos, mix the tea leaves with a teaspoon of cocoa. You may also find in stores Rooibos mixtures with cocoa pods, cinnamon, liquorice and cardamon.

Now get the cat on your lap and enjoy great literature!

The garden in november

2010-11-19T20:53:00.001+01:00

Plants of the month

Borders and rock gardens

Chrysantheum (in absence of frost)

Flowering plants

Jasminum nudiflorum (Winter Jasmin)

Prunus subhirtella autumnalis (winter flowering prunus)

Plants and trees with coloured leaves

Berberis

Cotoneaster

Trees and shrubs with coloured fruits

Amelanchier

Aucuba

Berberis

Callicarpa

Chaenomeles

Cotonneaster

Crataegus

Euonymus

Malus

Pernettya

Pyracantha

Skimmia japonica

Sorbus

Symphocarpus

Viburnum

Flowering plants for the house

Abutilon

Aphelandra

Begonia

Capsicum

Cineraria

Cyclamen

Euphorbia pulcherrima

Saintpaula

Cut flower for a reasonable price

Chrysantheum

Cyclamen

Euphorbia fulgens

Iris

Nerine

Even though the winter chill sets in, there are still things you can do in the garden.

Tender plants will need protecting from frost, gales and freezing rains. Move plants into the greenhouse, or into a sheltered spot, but if you can't, it is worth wrapping plants or pots in situ.Winter can be a tough time for birds in terms of water and food, so make sure there is always some food and water available to encourage winter birds into the garden.

Winter is the ideal time to check your garden equipment and do maintenance if necessary.

Leaves

Collect fallen leaves and put them on a separate heap to make compost of them, especially especially from lawns, ponds and beds. Ideally, you put the lawn mower in a high position and drive it over the lawn to collect and shred the leaves with little effort. The shredded leaves will turn faster into compost then unshredded ones. After this job, it is recommended to do maintenance of the lawn mower and if necessary, to have the blade sharpened. Use this compost in a layer of about 5 cm thick in the plants area in your garden, to protect the roots of the plants next winter.

If the fallen leaves consist of mainly beech- or oakleaves, you can use them immediatly, in a layer of about 15 cm thick to protect sensitive plants as kniphofia, schizostylus, Iris Styiosa and agapanthus from the winter frost.

Bulbs

Check your summer bulbs such as for instance dahlia bulbs against mold and drying out. If the bulb is shrinking, submerge it into water, let it dry and put it again safely away. If you notice a part of a bulb that has rot, just cut the bad part of with a very sharp and clean knife and powder the cut area with sulfur.

Finish your planting of spring bulbs to have a nice display early in the year.

Trees

Plant (fruit) trees, Rhododendrons and Azalea's if the weather is still fair. Stop winter moth damage to fruit trees using grease bands around the trunks.

Flowers

Remove perennial plants and put them in 15 – 17,5 cm pots and place them in a cool greenhouse as to make them flower in winter. Dicentra spectabilis, astilbes, Primula Denticulata and Helleborus Niger, which will flower around Christmas under glass. The Japanese azalea's are very suited to pot now and give them a nice spot in the house to bloom. Don't cut or hurt the root system so make sure the pot is big enough. Use a mixture of ordinary soil and some turf on top. Make sure the soil does not dry out. After the flowering period, you can put the plant again in its old spot in the garden, as long as the soil is not frozen.

Plant Roses now, since the soil still contains enough warmth to stimulate the growth of the roots. Before planting, put the roots of roses (bought with bare roots) for about 1 hour in a bucket of water. Use a handful of bone powder in one 10 liter bucket and mix this with turf or a suited organic menure. This bucket is enough to plant 5 roses. Use a sharp pair of siccors and remove all leaves, flowers, fruits and sideshoots. Make a hole big enough to contain the spread roots of the rose. Shake the plant gently as to make sure the soil moves in between of the roots. When the hole is almost full, press gently with your foot the soil on the roots. Make sure the grafting is about 2 cm under the surface.

If you are planting roses against a wall, make sure the roots run away from the structure, to avoid the roots drying out. In any case, don't plant them more than 35 cm away from the wall or the fence.

When it is impossible to plant roses, it is fine to leave them in the wrapping for 1 week. If you need to wait longer still, make a ditch deep enough as to hold the roots and about 7.5 cm of the branches of the plant. Water the roots, fill the ditch and gently press the soil with your foot.

If you have a greenhouse or a coldframe, big enough to grow roses in pots who will flower next year in april and may, use clay pots of about 22 cm, or cheaper fibrepots, specially made to last one year for this purpose. Cover the drainage hole and put 2.5 cm turf and a high quality compost blended with bone powder. Cut the roots to 15 cm to stimulate growth and fill up the pot to 2.5 cm from the rim and push the soil down firmly. Leave the potted roses outside on a concrete surface or ash till December.

Prune roses to prevent wind-rock.

Raise outside container pots on feet to prevent water logging and insulate them against frost (bubblewrap works excellent).

Veggies

Cover brassica with netting if pigeons are a problem.

First things first

2010-11-19T19:33:00.001+01:00

      This idea has been in our minds for a long time. We strongly feel that the quality of our lives has not improved under hyper-capitalism. The current economic system hinders most of us from having a close relationship with nature. It seems that everything has to be bigger, more and yet we cannot say that we are entirely happy with products that we can buy in the ordinary supermarkets. We all believe that organic gardening, and better integration in the nature landscape, rather than altering the environment to meet our shallow needs, is the key for a healthier lifestyle.
      Access to nature should not be a remote good, from which we can benefit only while we are on holidays, but can become permanent in our lives. Of course this requires a certain degree of commitment and we believe that this commitment should come about naturally. To some of us it is a way of life, to others it is a hobby, whereas to others just a minor curiosity. Nevertheless, we all realize the importance of the products that we consume and along with a call to ecology we encourage the establishment of new relationships between people involved in gardening, heirloom or ethnic cooking, homeopathy etc.
       We are not affiliated to any ecological or political organisation and we do not have the desire of such an affiliation. What's more, we desire to encourage exchange of knowledge, experience and local goods between people all over the world, so your active participation is important. Share with us!