Who knew that the largest sand dunes in the world are not along the coast but rather deep in the interior of the U.S.? Left behind when massive Lake Alamosa receded some 440,000 years ago, the wind-sculpted peaks of Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve rise as high as 750 feet. And with the entire 107,000-acre park open for hiking, you won’t be able to resist climbing the dunes and gazing out across the enormous expanse of sand as it gradates from gold to pink in the changing light.

But the big fun in Great Sand Dunes National Park is sandboarding, an extreme sport similar to snowboarding. Sandboarding is not for the faint of heart, given the speeds at which boarders whizz down the steep inclines — and the frequency with which they wipe out.

And yes, there’s actually a beach here, too, created by Medano Creek, which emerges mysteriously from the base of the dunes when fed by spring runoff. In warm weather, Medano Beach, as locals call it, resembles any other beach scene, with colorful umbrellas dotting the sand and hardy swimmers splashing and tubing in the rippling waves created by the current. Of course, for those in search of ocean surf and sea breezes, might prefer a California coast getaway, and A California Coast Getwaway to Santa Barbara offers the perfect spring break vacation vibes.

There’s no question the weather in the San Luis Valley is iffy in the spring — snow can fall as late as April given the park’s elevation, which ranges from 7,520 to 13,604 feet, but the warm sun typically melts the snow off the dunes within a day. Medano Creek reaches peak flow in April, but it’s not warm enough for most swimmers until May. For hotter temperatures, head for Death Valley National Park to explore more sand dunes as well as salt flats and slot canyons

You’ll find plenty more to explore among the dramatic landscapes of southern Colorado, including four public hot springs surrounding the town of Alamosa, which range in vibe from family-friendly Splashland to romantic Joyful Journey.

Birding buffs will also want to make the trek to Monte Vista National Wildlife Refuge to witness the sandhill crane migration that takes place from March through early April. Time your visit right and you can attend the annual Monte Vista Crane Festival, held in March, to go on guided bird-watching walks and attend photography workshops or bird seminars.

Where to stay

Retro-cool Mellow Moon Lodge in the mountain biking mecca of Del Norte has free bikes on-site for guests, welcomes dogs, and wows with its midcentury modern decor.

Jet lag, too much good food, nowhere to exercise – there are lots of barriers to staying healthy when you travel, and it’s all too common to arrive home tired, achy, and ready to pull out your “fat jeans.” So how do you avoid health setbacks when you travel?

Every time I speak at a travel conference I’m asked for tips on staying fit and eating right while traveling, so I’ve spent some time thinking about all my favorite tricks.

Here they are; feel free to steal!

1. Sleep on the flight, no matter what it takes. No excuses. No “I can’t sleep on planes,” no “the inflight movie was one I’ve wanted to see forever.” Need a pillow? Buy an inflatable neck pillow and let it live in your carry on. Get cold? Stick a pashmina and some warm socks in there too. Me, I take melatonin, Benadryl or Tylenol PM to knock me out, just for good measure.

2. Eat something healthy and filling before you fly. This is the secret to number 1 above, because if you’re hungry a) you won’t sleep as well and b) you’ll need to wake up just to eat crummy airline food. (Unless you’re flying Turkish, Singapore, Thai, or Air France, which is a different story.) My pick in a pinch is a yogurt, fruit and granola parfait, commonly found at many airport cafe stands. Not only will it keep you from snacking on salty peanuts and snacks (remember, salt contributes to bloat, already a problem while flying) but the carb rush will be followed by a crash that will also help you sleep. I also try never to get caught without a couple of protein bars – as a semi-vegetarian,

3. Pack exercise bands. No, you can’t bring your weights, but I never go anywhere without my stretchies, which work pretty well for basic strength training. I also bring a light plastic jump rope to have handy on the beach, or even in the hotel room if it seems like I won’t bother my neighbors. 

4. Take melatonin your first evening. It resets the internal clock, helping you fall asleep — and stay asleep through the night — even if overnight flights and time differences are throwing your circadian rhythms out of whack.

5. Let yoga gear double as PJs. I’m the queen of packing light, and never ever check luggage. So I leave the pajamas behind and bring yoga clothes instead; they’re just as comfy to sleep in and I’m ready to take advantage of a hotel yoga class when offered.

6. Never, ever leave home without walking shoes or a bathing suit. Last fall I was in Arizona for a conference, equipped only with “professional” clothes. One night everyone made plans for a sunrise hike to the top of Camelback Mountain; I enthusiastically chimed in, only to realize with chagrin that I  – Miss “healthy travel” – hadn’t packed a single pair of shoes that could get me up the rocky trail. Never again. Ditto a bathing suit. Believe me, once you’ve gazed out at a gorgeous jacuzzi that was off limits because you forgot your suit, you’ll make sure it never happens again.

7. Plan for breakfast-on-the-go. Whether venturing out to photograph the sunrise from the rim of the Grand Canyon or day-tripping into the jungle to climb a Maya pyramid, you never know when you’ll need to be up and out before the hotel restaurant opens. In anticipation of these occasions, I line the bottom of my suitcase with packets of instant oatmeal, baggies of granola, servings of vitamin gummies, and other high-energy fare to kick off an active day.

8. Enjoy that first glass of wine – then switch to water. This one’s not going to be popular, but it’s absolutely key for me. Two glasses of wine and I’m fuzzy-headed and sluggish the next day, not to mention at risk for a headache. One and I’m fine. So I sip and savor that first glass, or if I’m enjoying a wine pairing dinner, I just have a few sips of each varietal on offer. As for that nightcap at the outdoor bar? I’ve learned to love fizzy fruity tonic-based drinks. And whether you enjoy one drink or many, go to bed hydrated and you’ll stave off the morning-after headache. One last tip: the experts are correct that alcohol contributes to middle-of-the-night waking and insomnia. So if you want to be sure you’ll sleep through the night, forego altogether and enjoy a mocktail instead.

Pristine wilderness dotted by ancient village sites so protected that only 12 people at a time are allowed to step ashore – this is Canada’s final frontier, a remote archipelago off British Columbia’s northernmost coast.

By Melanie Haiken

A version of this story appeared in CNN in 2020.

At once thrilling, serene and mysterious, the mist-shrouded peaks of Haida Gwaii rise from the waves like magical kingdoms, home to a wealth of rare species found nowhere else on earth and a people whose rich culture developed in isolation over more than 12,000 years.

The Haida called this wing-shaped swath of more than 150 islands and islets Xhaaidlagha Gwaayaai, Islands at the Boundary of the World, a name that perfectly conveys their isolation. Separated from the mainland of British Columbia by more than 80 nautical miles across the notoriously rough Hecate Strait, they area accessible only by boat or floatplane.

Here, in moss-draped rainforest watered by more than 60 inches of rainfall a year, some of the world’s tallest and oldest red and yellow cedar trees still reach for the sky amid peaceful coves and miles-long beaches. And in close relationship to these ancient forests live the Haida, a people who – archeological and geological evidence suggests – have occupied the same land for more than 12,000 years, making them one of the longest traceable populations in the world.

Renamed the Queen Charlotte Islands by settlers who began arriving in the early 1800s, the territory was never ceded by the Haida, who refused to sign a treaty despite a century and a half of colonization.

It wasn’t until 2010 that a landmark reconciliation agreement renamed the territory Haida Gwaii, Islands of the People, and maps were redrawn to include Haida place names. To symbolize the changeover, Haida leaders ceremonially returned the colonial name to the then-Premier of British Columbia in a traditional handcrafted bentwood box. In 2017 the transition received even more attention when Prince William and Kate Middleton visited Haida Gwaii during a tour of British Columbia and the Yukon, making the last leg of the journey in a traditional Haida war canoe.

Today, a third of the islands’ land mass and the labyrinth of inlets, bays and fjords that surround and divide them are protected as Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site, jointly managed in a unique agreement between the government of Canada and the Council of the Haida Nation. “We may not agree on who owns the land, but we agree it needs to be protected,” says Hannah Fregin, a cultural interpretation officer for Parks Canada. To receive the permits required to enter the park, visitors must first spend time learning about the principles of Haida culture and sign a pledge to respect the land.

“You’re agreeing to abide by the Haida principle of yahguudang, taking only what you need,” explains cultural interpreter Natalie Fournier, whose Haida name is Jaadguusandlans.

A History More than Ancient

Five heritage sites within the park, accessible only by boat, protect rows of rare, ancient standing poles — each intricately carved from a single massive cedar trunk. The best known – and most photographed – of these sites is the UNESCO World Heritage Site SGang Gwaay, also called Ninstints and formerly known as Anthony Island, which dates from the 1800s and preserves the collection of monument poles still in their original location.

Haida council members known as watchmen remain at each remote heritage site during the visitor season of May to October, and no more than 12 visitors are permitted at a time. It’s a powerful experience to trace the loamy path through moss-grown stands of spruce, hemlock and cedar to the abandoned village, where a grid of tumbled cedar logs outlines what remains of enormous longhouses, each big enough to house 30 to 40 people.

Like the longhouses, the poles, which once held mortuary boxes containing the remains of Haida elders, are slowly returning to the forest from which they came. Some lean so precariously they look as if the next strong wind might topple them.

“Last year’s storms did so much damage, and we don’t know how long the poles will stand, but we don’t try to save them,” says watchman Kelly Jones. “They were meant to return to the earth, releasing the souls of the dead.”

The bold designs and craftsmanship displayed in these historic poles once threatened to disappear, as epidemics of smallpox and other diseases brought by settlers reduced the Haida population from an estimated 20,000 people to fewer than 600 by the end of the 19th century.

While Haida carvings, weavings, baskets and jewelry became so prized by collectors that they made their way to museums worldwide, the traditions themselves were all but lost.

Now the islands are in the midst of a vibrant renaissance, with a new generation of wood and stone-carvers, weavers, canoe-builders and others reviving ancient artistic traditions and taking them in new and exciting directions.

In the workshop of renowned pole carver Garner Moody and his younger colleague Billy Yovanovich, Jr., the two men paint delicate lines of black and red on masks made from smooth yellow cedar.

The works are destined for a gallery in Vancouver, whose owner calls frequently saying he can’t keep them on the shelves.

In another workshop, Jaalen Edenshaw hollows a 36-foot canoe from one massive cedar trunk, which he widens by steaming it open with hot stones.

“To us, canoes are symbols of our culture,” says Edenshaw, who began learning the craft from family members at 15.

Haida canoes, which could be up to 60 feet long and hold as many as 40 people, were the only ones capable of crossing the Hecate Strait to the mainland and were prized by First Nations up and down the coast.

There’s no better place to experience the revitalization of Haida Gwaii than the Haida Heritage Centre at the former village site of Kay LLnagaay.

An ocean-facing expanse of weathered wood and glass laid out following the pattern of a traditional village, it’s fronted by six towering poles carved and painted in vivid depictions of bear, raven, orca and other characters from Haida storytelling. Each represents a village and the crests of the clan who lived there.

In addition to classrooms, performance spaces and a café, the museum houses a stunning collection of Haida art dating back hundreds of years, one that’s growing quickly thanks to a campaign of repatriation.

In an exhibition titled “Yahguudang,” in reference to the Haida principle, one room is lined floor to ceiling with poignant photographs of Haida artifacts currently in the collections of museums in New York, London, Toronto and elsewhere.

The Heritage Centre’s gift shop is the perfect place to start the search for your own carving, mask or jewelry. Continue your search with stops at Longhouse Gift Shop or Sitka Studio before browsing the wares at Sarah’s Haida Art & Jewelry and Crystal Cabin Gallery.

Also recommended is a visit to Ben Davidson’s gallery, All About U Arts, which showcases Davidson’s own work and that of other contemporary Haida artists.

Wild Islands, Wilder Wildlife

Defined by its perch on the edge of the continental shelf, its western shore dropping steeply to the deep sea below, Haida Gwaii benefits from an ecosystem as rich and distinct as its culture.

More than 20 species of whale and dolphin have been catalogued here, including the orcas, for whom the islands’ nutrient-dense fjords and channels are a critical feeding habitat.

It’s not uncommon to see playful sea lions sparring on the rocks and otters lolling among the kelp beds or to hear the slap of a gray whale tail and glimpse the arc of a breaching porpoise.

Isolation from the mainland resulted in a host of endemic species, among them pine marten, bat, otter and most especially the Haida Gwaii black bear, the largest of its kind in the world and recognized by its over-developed skull and jaws strong enough to crush sea urchin shells and salmon bones.

Visitors may encounter soft-eyed Sitka black-tailed deer gazing unafraid from the shadow of the forest while bald eagles, so common they follow fishing boats like seagulls, might be seen nesting in the treetops.

In fact, this is a bird-watcher’s paradise – an estimated 1.5 million seabirds breed among the rocks, among them the marbled murrelet, a threatened species known for their dependence on old-growth forests.

Rarest of all, however, is the Haida Gwaii northern goshawk, a raptor whose population has fallen to fewer than 50 adult birds.

Whether via a wind-whipped zodiac expedition, an adrenaline-pushing kayak adventure or a meditative fishing trip, it’s essential to experience the islands’ rocky crags and pine-sheltered inlets from the water.

One of the best places to experience the rugged splendor of the region’s craggy coastline is at Naikoon Provincial Park at the northeastern end of Graham Island.

After following a boardwalk over boggy and luxuriantly green wetlands, the trail climbs a series of steep switchbacks to Tow Hill Lookout, where a deck juts from the hillside over a canopy of pine below. From here, the 1.5-mile hike continues to the Blow Hole, where, when the tide is right, spray foams geyser-like through the rock.

Another must-see geological formation is eerie Balance Rock, a gigantic boulder impossibly poised on a narrow footing left behind by a glacial retreat.

Standing on the continent’s edge

The Haida have a popular saying: “The world is as sharp as the edge of a knife; as you go along you have to be careful or you will fall off one side or the other.”

The phrase conjures an edge-of-the-world feeling, perceptible to anyone who steps foot on the islands.

Part of the saying also became the title of the first-ever feature film to be made in Haida Gwaii, “Edge of the Knife,” or Sgaawaay K’uuna, spoken entirely in the endangered Haida language.

Living on the knife edge of the world requires nothing if not balance. Or, as the Haida principle of interconnectedness frames it, “Gina ‘waadluxan gud ad kwaagid” — everything depends upon everything else.” That lesson will stay with you long after leaving Haida Gwaii.

Strolling the beach in Santa Barbara feels as exotic as any tropical locale.

Lately, loads of folks have been asking me for recommendations for the perfect spring break getaway. The criteria is simple: Sun. And warmth. (Considering that northern California had 20 days of rain in March and it’s still snowing on the east coast, it’s easy to see why.)

Well, I’ve got the answer: Santa Barbara. And the explanation is simple: Thanks to a “banana belt” climate caused by warm air currents, Santa Barbara gets an average of 300 days of sunshine a year. Yep, that means just 65 days a year when it’s NOT sunny, folks! And of course warm weather + beach = lots and lots of outdoor activities await.

Here’s a sampling of the outdoor fun to be had in Santa Barbara:

1.  Peddle the beachfront boardwalk. Rent a beach cruiser or deuce coupe from Wheel Fun Rentals, with two convenient locations right on the boardwalk. Whether you want a two-person or four-person cruiser, or serious road bikes for an all-day ride, they’ve got what you need, helmets included.

We did both; one day we took a coupe for a leisurely peddle down the beachfront, then the next we took cruisers and ventured south past the spectacular Biltmore Hotel and on to quiet Montecito Beach, where we had the waves almost to ourselves.

2. Stay in a beachfront hotel with palm groves and a fabulous pool.Hotel Oceana (pictured in the collage above and to the left) has everything you — or your kids — could want, from a free breakfast complete with waffles, to a rack full of beach cruisers available free for the taking. The bougainvilla-bedecked garden includes several patio areas for picnicking and a huge kidney-shaped pool with a bubbling hot jacuzzi to soothe your sore muscles after a day of climbing cliffs with no gears.

The daily catch

3. Eat fresh-caught crab or lobster right off the boat. At the Santa Barbara Shellfish Company, in a nondescript shack at the very end of the municipal pier, you choose your lunch or dinner from amongst the fat and happy crabs swimming around in a tank and watch them boil it right up for you. Not for the faint of heart, but the freshness can’t be beat.

4. Kayak the harbor. Kayaks are for rent on the wharf just past where you catch the water taxi. Santa Barbara Kayak Company has ocean kayaks, hobies, and paddle boards too. Newbies can paddle around amongst the yachts and stay sheltered, while the more adventurous can venture out to the open water, where sea lion and dolphin sightings are common.

There’s another reason why Santa Barbara’s perfect for active travelers: The city has made a major commitment to going car-free, with bike lanes all over town and a free shuttle between the beach and downtown that lets you bring bikes onboard. A website, Car-Free Santa Barbara, makes it easy to access all transportation options and figure out how to get wherever you need to go. So you can park your car at your hotel and not use it again the entire time you’re here. Given how car-dependent most of California is, this really sets Santa Barbara apart.

No, that’s not sand. The glittering salt flats of my childhood near Badwater Basin.

I’m standing in the middle of Death Valley’s Badwater Basin and searching for salt. Of course, this is ridiculous; there’s salt all around me, as our guide patiently explains. But what I’m looking for is a dream-like image that’s hovered at the edges of my memory since I was last there at the age of eight: an enormous wash of crystalized salt so bright it made me wince, winking away to the horizon.

Ignoring the uneven ground and lack of signage, I pace from the center in a wheel, working my way outwards towards the whiter patches that beckon tantalizingly in all directions. And then over a rise, I’m on it – a hardpan crust of rimed salt, crystals crunching under my feet, stretching to the far edges of the valley. I imagine a pioneer wagon lurching its way across this blinding, thirsty landscape and it’s as cruel and unsettling as it was to the child who never forgot it.

The minerals that drew miners to Death Valley color the multi-hued hills.

The rest of Death Valley, like Badwater, remains much as I remember it. For good reason; the sheer inhospitable-ness of this landscape has resisted taming since those first trapped wagon trains earned the valley its name a century and a half ago. Fast forward to today and the narrow roads that bisect the valley are as lonely, the canyons as rugged, the pool at Furnace Creek as vivid blue as they were when my family camped here in the 1960s.

And though visitor numbers climb each year, you wouldn’t know it – thanks to the searing heat of summer and the bitter winds of winter, most tourists keep to a simple driving loop and leave the side canyons and high peaks to the adventurous few.

Mosaic Canyon, Gower Gulch, and Gold Canyon

The hike into Mosaic Canyon snakes narrowly between mineral-painted sandstone cliffs.

Picture a giant hurling his paintbox at a cliff and you’ll have some idea what to expect at Mosaic Canyon.

The red and ochre hills are splashed with greens, blues, and even a patch of lilac so unlikely you think they must be artificial.

But they’re not – just a hint at the mineral richness that’s drawn cash-hungry explorers to pull borax, silver, gold and copper from these hills.

Rising to a guide’s dare, we make the heart-pounding climb up Dante’s Ridge, where a viewpoint gives us an almost 360-degree view down towards Zabriskie Point on one side and Gower Gulch on the other.

Coveting a Glimpse of Copper Canyon

These rugged copper and ocher bluffs still hide their share of secrets.

That’s when the ranger tells us about Copper Canyon, a section of Death Valley closed to visitors since the 1940s to protect the treasure trove of fossils there. Nowadays access is restricted to three annual ranger-led tours, each limited to 15 people chosen by lottery.  Those 45 privileged souls will have a chance to explore The Barnyard, a massive and aptly named uplift preserving a farm’s worth of footprints from mastodons, two-toed camels, big cats, and various prehistoric birds all long gone from today’s animal kingdom.

I pride myself on my ability to pack light; one rolling carry-on is my limit whether for a three-day weekender or a recent two-week through Switzerland and France. But I also hate being caught without the right thing to wear. I’ve been known to follow Parisians and Italians down the street lusting after their footwear and no, I’ve never been able to let myself wear polarfleece to dinner in a big city.

And I’ll admit it; I’m fairly thin-skinned when it comes to carrying off unexpected formal occasions without the proper attire. As you can imagine, this leads to some daunting packing challenges. Here are three items that have helped me avoid more than one outfit crisis.

1. Are they yoga pants — or palazzos?
A few days ago I heard those words every non girlie-girl dreads: “no jeans allowed.” We were at a mountain-top lodge high in the Sierras and sure enough, my pack contained almost nothing but jeans. But guess what else was in there? My yoga pants, one of a handful of things I never travel without. Luckily they weren’t my cheapo floppy cotton ones, but my beloved Chaturanga pants from Athleta, which are made from a thick, nylon-and-lycra fabric called Supplex that gives them just the right amount of stretch and swagger. With a black-and-gray tunic sweater, also from Athleta, pulled over them, they masquerade unrecognizably as wide-leg palazzo pants.

Athleta, a maker of hip yoga, hiking and athletic wear, just happens to have been founded in my backyard of Petaluma, California and sometimes it feels like their designers are channeling — well, moi. It’s one of my go-to brands because almost everything they make dresses up whatever activity it was intended for. Stretchy yoga tank tops with built-in bras supportive enough for running, yet they look groovy enough to wear to a dance club. Flippy gored skorts you can hike in, bike in — or wear to a picnic or barbecue. Unlike many catalog companies, their fit is remarkably consistent and they keep many of the same styles year in, year out, making it easy to replace a beloved standby. I just wish they had more frequent sales and discounts — are you listening, Athleta folks?

How can shoes this cute be so comfy?

2. Mary janes you can hike in.
Everyone who’s ever walked around the block with me  knows how much I love my Keens — all of them. My hiking boots are Keens, as are my trusty water sandals and my basic around-town tennies. But the travel essentials I can’t leave home without are a battered and much-restored pair of Keens in a pseudo-Mary Jane style called Calistoga. (With that name, is it any surprise I love ’em?) With wide buckle straps, perforated floral details and contrast stitching, they can dress up enough to carry a skirt, but they’re also sturdy enough that they’ve taken me up many a mountain when my pack was too full for my boots. Like almost all Keens, they’re washable with removable, washable insoles, so trail dust comes right off.

3. A bathing suit cover up that works as a shawl. 
If you’ve been to a resort in Mexico or the Bahamas recently, you’ve likely been approached on the beach by ladies selling sarongs, simple squares of lightweight nylon, often with beaded edges,  that can be tied in any number of ways to cover up a suit. Since my color of choice is always black, on one recent trip I picked up a sheer dotted black sarong with jet beads along the edge. Later that night, wishing I had a Sex and the City-style resort dress, it hit me — I could tie the sarong around my shoulders and suddenly my simple black sundress looked almost Samantha-like. Now it lives in a pocket of my travel pack, ready to make me decent during the day and glam me up at night.

Do you have any favorite items of clothing that do double-duty for travel? I’m always looking for more.

1. Laughing Monk

2. Monk’s Kettle

3. Pond Farm Brewing

When Trevor and Stephanie Martens set out to open Pond Farm Brewing Company in San Rafael, they sought out the neighbors for extended consultations about what would best fit the needs of the family-oriented community. The result is the ultimate local hangout were regulars convene, tots in tow, to try the latest releases and local bands play every Sunday afternoon. The kitchen continues the family-friendly vibe, with $6 grilled cheese sandwiches, hot dogs, and goldfish alongside a selection of more adult-oriented pub fare. Hazy IPAs are among Pond Farm’s numerous specialties, which also include a crisp, fresh San Rafael Lager, a rich, chocolatey Imperial Mast dark lager, and Surreal Appeal golden ale. And, in a rare and welcome move for the gluten-intolerant, they offer a house-made hard seltzer as well.

Hometown Heroes Local Brewing may lack a taproom during their temporary closure following a disastrous fire, but they continue to be a major player in the local craft brewing community. Head brewer and co-founder Regan Long holds degrees in physics and oceanography and her scientific approach shows in her technique, honed over many years as a home brewer in her home state of Oregon. The roster features a rotating selection of Local Brewing’s signature small batch beers like Bluxome Black Lager, named for the taproom’s address, and Baycation Tropical Blonde. During their enforced taproom hiatus, Local Brewing is collaborating with Pond Farm Brewing of San Rafael and a host of local luminaries on special release beers.

5. 21st Amendment

Also specializing in Belgian-style beers, primarily ales and stouts, 21st Amendment is above all a friendly, informal place, with a big semi-circular bar that seems to welcome strangers into an already happening party. An open kitchen continues the welcoming atmosphere; the only downside is it can get loud.

Stay at the Hotel Vitale just a few blocks away and you’ll have a pleasant stroll along the waterfront to get back to your bed.

6. Beach Chalet and Park Chalet

On the west side of the city, in fact about as far west as you can go, are the Beach Chalet and Park Chalet brewpubs, located at the westernmost end of Golden Gate Park where the dunes meet the sea. Best known for the history, architecture, and atmosphere of the buildings they’re located in, these brewpubs deserve a nod for serving a well-curated selection of handcrafted local beer as well.

Still, back to the buildings, which are worth a visit for admiration’s sake — and for the view. The Beach Chalet is located on the second floor of the old Golden Gate Park Visitors’ Center, which had sat vacant for 17 years before its rebirth, and the dining room has a jaw-dropping view of Ocean Beach. The spectacular craftsman-style building was designed by famed SF architect Willis Polk, and features restored art-deco WPA murals with scenes depicting San Francisco life was like during the 1930s. The restoration and reopening of Beach Chalet was completed in the late 1990s, so its not “news,” but the addition of the Park Chalet a couple of years ago upped the “must visit” factor, thanks to a lovely, wind-protected garden patio and massive stone fireplace. Saturday and Sunday afternoons now feature live music, ranging from jazz to funk.

Stay at the Hilton Union Square or  Campton Place Taj for a central Union Square location that makes it easy to get to all the City’s most colorful neighborhoods.

Guiding my car gingerly down streets narrowed almost beyond navigability by gnarly-limbed cedars and close-fitting fences, I can’t help but think to myself that Carmel has major Hobbit vibes. And that’s before I notice that many of the village’s fairy tale cottages, with their swooping gables and lead-paned windows, hide round windows and arched doorways behind hedgerows thick with blooms. There’s also the way the tiny village slopes down the hill to the sea, the streets so steep that the town government felt the need to pass a law banning high heels for public safety.

Settled by would-be bohemians soon after the turn of the 20th century, the village officially named Carmel-by-the-Sea has retained much of it’s artsy charm (if not the affordability) by virtue of the more than 100 galleries and art studios tucked into its maze of courtyards and alleyways.

But shopping and gazing aside, the real appeal of Carmel – and what, in my opinion, qualifies it for the status of best-kept travel secret – is its network of cliff-hugging walking paths and glittering white beach at the foot of town, the sand so crystalline it squeaks with every step.  I happily spent three very full days in Carmel without once moving my car, and there aren’t very many northern California beach towns you can say that about.

While getting lost is half the fun (and don’t worry, you will), the visitor’s bureau offers a downloadable map of the village center as well as a self-guided historic walking tour complete with an app.

For a more in-depth strolling experience, sign up for for Rohana LoSchiavo’s well-curated Carmel art tour, which offers an insider’s guide to the best of the current exhibits. LoSchiavo has been inside the Carmel art scene for decades and her experience shows; not only does the tour introduce you to a hand-picked selection of galleries, but LoSchiavo makes sure the artists and curators themselves are present and available to introduce the art.

Of course, maybe you’d rather walk and eat? There’s an excellent tour for that, too. Launched in 2012, Carmel Food Tours takes you to local favorites and up-and-coming restaurants as well as purveyors of artisanal olive oil, chocolate, and wine.

Our tour, the “classic,” was led by Mig (for Migdalia), a garrulous Central Coast native whose enthusiasm for the local wine and farming communities left me with a two-page “must do” list. (Note to self: U-pick strawberries in Watsonville; artichoke soup north of Castroville; and don’t neglect the wines of the Santa Cruz mountains.)

A few memorable highlights from our tour and additional edible excursions:

Affina: This buzzy farm-to-table bistro daringly reimagines poutine, grilled cheese, clam chowder and other hearty fare.

Casanova: Come for the colorful pottery, eclectic decor and multiple shaded patios, stay for the spinach gnocchi drenched in parmesan cream.

Artemis Turkish Kitchen: Zagat rated since almost the moment it opened its doors, Artemis is all about meze so start with the sampler of these traditional appetizers.

La Balena: Chef Brad Briske starts his mornings sourcing the day’s catch at the Monterey wharf, so you can’t go wrong with the pesce del giorno, though the chili-lemon broccolini and kale gets my vote.

Terry’s Lounge at the Cypress Inn: Sunset cocktails are a must-do at this landmark owned by Doris Day.

Scratch:  This artful new tasting room inside the Winfield gallery is the perfect showcase for winemaker Sabrine Rodems’ cool climate Rhône varietals.

Trió: Taste from barrels of freshly pressed olive oil, herb and balsamic vinegars; your salads will never be the same.

Lula’s Chocolates: No Parisian pasticceria can top Lula’s brightly packaged handmade chocolates and caramels.

A final note:  You can do pretty much all of this walking with your pooch in hand, too. Carmel rates extremely high on the dog-friendly travel meter, with many of the major hotels, as well as the B&Bs and rentals, putting out the welcome mat for pets.

And Carmel’s spectacular cove? Open to dogs both on and off-leash, with the 18-mile Monterey bay coastal trail nearby.

In place of the word vacation, I love the British term holidays, or “hols” for short. It’s perfectly descriptive, suggesting a sense of celebration and release. Another evocative term they use is “break,” as in the kids are on school break. It suggests a break from life, a relief from the humdrum, a chance to stop the clock, take a pass from the relentless pace of time.

Getting away, far away, is a Scottish tradition, one carried down from clan chiefs, kings and lords who hunted and sported at their summer castles. Skip a few centuries, and the tradition was revived by the Scottish Railway, which capitalized on the ownership of vast amounts of land by establishing destination retreats for city folks eager to get away from it all. Today these grand, lordly lodges still stand, celebrating every aspect of the country gentry from venerable golf courses and miles of hiking trails over the downs to elegant tea rooms and sunny terraces.

Recently I had a chance to visit a few of these storied country retreats, and came home convinced that they’re the perfect cure for the “stop the world I want to get off” blues.

1. Turnberry Resort. World famous golf courses may be the lure for the majority of Turnberry’s guests, but there’s much more to keep you from searching for a wifi signal. Go horseback riding on the beach or try your hand at the ancient sport of falconry, then salute the sunset to the eerie tones of a lone bagpiper. And yes, there’s a spa, with lovely crisp white treatment rooms and a glassed-in pool with a view of the lighthouse and the sea.

2. GlenEagles Resort.  Even more luxurious than Turnberry, GlenEagles sprawls across 850 acres of Perthshire woodland with miles of hiking and riding trails criss-crossing the downs. There are three championship courses to choose from, but cycling, equestrian training, shooting and gundog training were the bigger hits while I was there. The GlenEagles spa, located in a new wing of the resort, is otherwordly, with a warren of tiled steam rooms, saunas, hammams and soaking pools to keep you in a state of melted grace.

3. Cameron House. As brooding as you’d expect a baronial manor on the storied shores of Loch Lomond to be, Cameron House is an even bigger step backwards in time. Flames flicker in oversized fireplaces, library shelves sag with ancient leather volumes, and single malt Scotch (more than 200 kinds!) gleams golden against the polished wood and stone of the Great Scots bar. But stern formality isn’t the style of Cameron House, now part of the DeVere brand. Yes, there’s the new signature restaurant of Michelin-starred chef Martin Wishart, but there’s also the popular boathouse, which serves smoked mackerel, tiger prawns, and oysters in a Cape Cod-style setting next to berths of yachts. Families test their golf skills on the trickster “wee demon” course. And at the Carrick spa, across the famed golf course of the same name,  a rooftop infinity pool draws laughing crowds to soak away sore muscles while calling out encouragement to those playing the last rounds of the day.

It’s amazing what it’s possible to find out about Web traffic. A few clicks reveals that the most popular post ever here at Health*Conscious*Travel was my bedbug report: what to know before you go a few months back.

The timing was good, because since I posted the national news has continued to feature one report after another about the growing bedbug menace, including the news that the AMC Empire 25 movie theater in New York City’s Times Square had to shut its doors in August for a deep-cleaning after patrons reported being munched while trying to enjoy Toy Story 3.

The offices of elegant Elle magazine and several New York Victoria’s Secret Stores have had infestations, as has — by some reports at least — practically the entire state of Ohio. (In August, Ohio petitioned the EPA to allow re-introduction of a potentially toxic chemical, propoxur, which is supposedly effective against bedbugs but harmful to children. The request was unsuccessful, and reveals a fair amount of desperation.)

And poor Toronto, set to host the Toronto International Film Festival in a couple of weeks, is rushing to defuse reports that the ScotiaBank Theatre, where the bulk of the press screenings are held, is being fumigated to rid the seats of bed bugs.

And while much of the news has centered on the east coast and midwest, here in the west we have a role to play as well. The National Pest Management Association (NPMA) is convening bed bug symposiums around the country and this week there’s one in our own Oakland, California.

But rather than jump on the bandwagon of alarm, let’s look at the many educational comments on our previous post to glean some practical, useful, non-alarmist bed bug advice.

1. Hotels are not at fault. Or at the least, hotel cleaning staff do not deserve the blame.  According to knowledgeable commenter Trisha, the persistent pets are being spread in the clothing of travelers, so that’s where we need to start to combat their spread.

2. Plastic bags are the weapon of choice. Terrabyte, Trisha, and other commenters recommend that travelers keep all belongings (not just clothes, but everything) in airtight ziploc plastic bags to prevent bed bugs from finding a cozy hideaway.

3. Rely on hot water and a hot dryer upon re-entry. When you get home, bring your suitcase straight into the laundry room and wash everything in hot water, then dry it in a hot dryer for good measure. If possible, steam clean your suitcase; a low-budget option is to leave it outside in the sun for a few days.

4. Consider an airtight mattress protector. This may sound like overkill, but if you live in a bedbug area, or travel a lot, it makes perfect sense to be proactively protective. Bed bugs come by their name for a reason; mattresses are their first choice when it comes to lodging because of the easy access to an all-night buffet. So seal your mattress up securely in an anti-bed bug protector and they can’t settle in.

5. Be a conscientious — and cautious — houseguest. If there is any chance at all that you yourself are hosting bed bugs, then all I can say is, friends don’t let friends get bitten by bed bugs. I haven’t dealt with bed bugs myself, but I have dealt with lice when my children were little, and the same courtesy of full disclosure applies. If you will be staying in a private home and are worried about bed bugs, use the same plastic bag and laundry techniques you’d use when staying in a hotel.

6. Consult the ultimate authority. If you want to know everything there is to know about bed bugs, check in with the folks at www.Bedbugger.com, who keep up with all the latest sightings and scratchings. As of this weekend, they were reporting bed bugs in Google’s Chelsea, New York offices. Bet that’ll get a lot of hits!

More bed bug tips I haven’t thought of? Share them here, please!