My friend needed the vanity to be a shallow 18″ deep, but the build plans are for a standard 21″ deep vanity.

The deep drawers give her tons of space to store cosmetic supplies. I love the black pulls she used too, you can see them here.

The base of the bathroom vanity sports a more ornate base trim that looks like furniture rather than a mere vanity. The doors and drawer fronts are simple flat panel door style with routed edges.

The vanity is painted white with Cabinet and Trim paint in Ultra Pure White.

I’ve teamed up with Kregtool.com to bring you the free plans including the supply list, cut list and step by step instructions.  Kreg Tool is a great community resource for woodworkers and DIY’ers and has tons of free plans and projects.

Free Plans for the Left Offset Bathroom Vanity are on Kregtool.com

Click for plans –> Left Offset Bathroom Vanity

This building plan was sponsored by Kregtool.com, all opinions and ideas are 100% my own.

The post Left Offset Bathroom Vanity appeared first on Her Tool Belt.

When the barn doors are shut, a shallow decor shelf area is visible. Then open the barn doors to reveal a deeper shelf area for media storage.

It really is a great solution to my problem. No TV permanently mounted to the wall, just a cut X Barn Door Console Table!

The Barn door console table with hidden TV lift looks great while not in use, it hides the electronics that I don’t want seen at all times…and is really cool.

The TV lift cabinet mechanism and remote control are the key to this project – you can see more here.

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How to Build a Barn Door Console Table with Hidden TV Lift

Materials

• 35″ tall TV Lift Mechanism or smaller with either lid type – Hinged Lid or Fixed Lid
• Mini Barn Door Kit – 7 1/2 feet double door
• 4 – 1×10 x 8′ boards
• 1 – 1×8 x 8′ boards
• 11 – 1×6 x 8′ boards
• 1 – 1×4 x 8′ boards
• 14 – 1×3 x 8′ boards
• 1 – 3/4″ sheet of plywood
• 1/2 – 1/4″ sheet of plywood
• wood glue
• wood biscuits
• 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
• 1 1/4″ brad nails
• hinges (if using hinge lid style – use either piano hinge or full overlay frameless euro hinges)
• sandpaper
• shelf pins
• wood filler
• stain – I used Briarsmoke
• top coat – I used polyurethane satin

The material list lumber is for common boards that can be bought at the hardware stores. I used alder hardwood that needed to be planed and were random widths. 

This cabinet will fit a TV that measures 44″ wide or smaller. My TV is a 50″ Samsung (50 is the diagonal dimension).

Cut List

Center Cabinet

• 2 – 3/4″ x 4″ x 41″ – center cabinet front rails
• 2 – 3/4″ x 4″ x 44 1/2″ – center cabinet back support rails
• 2 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 35 1/4″ – center cabinet front stiles
• 3 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 30 1/4″ – center cabinet back support stiles
• 2 – 3/4″ x 35 1/4″ x 17 1/2″ plywood – center cabinet sides
• 1 – 3/4″ x 35 1/4″ x 45″ plywood – center cabinet divider
• 1 – 3/4″ x 9″ x 45″ plywood – center cabinet bottom
• 2 – 3/4″ x 8 1/2″ x 44 1/2″ (a little less than) – center cabinet shelves
• 2 – 3/4″ x 9 1/4″ x 46″ – center cabinet top – rip one down to 8 3/8″ wide x 46″ if using the hinge lid

2 End Cabinets

• 4 – 3/4″ x 4″ x 17 1/2″ – end cabinet front rails
• 4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 35 1/4″ – cabinet front stiles
• 8 – 3/4″ x 4″ x 13″ – end cabinet side rails
• 4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 35 1/4″ – end cabinet side stiles back
• 4 – 3/4″ x 2″ x 35 1/4″ – end cabinet side stiles front
• 24 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 17″ – end cabinet side panels
• 4 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 17″ – end cabinet side panels
• 4 or 8 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 30 1/4″ – X pieces for end cabinets (the sides that face the center cabinet do not need X’s if you don’t want to add them)
• 2 – 3/4″ x 4″ x 19 1/2″ – end cabinet bottom back
• 2 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 19 1/2″ – end cabinet top back
• 4 – 3/4″ x 9 1/4″ x 19 1/2″ – end cabinet shelves
• 4 – 3/4″ x 7 1/4″ x 19 1/2″ – end cabinet shelves
• 2 – 3/4″ x 16 3/4″ x 20″ plywood – end cabinet bottom
• 2 – 1/4″ x 21″ x 35 1/4″ plywood – end cabinet back
• 4 – 3/4″ x 9 1/4″ x 23 1/2″ – end cabinet top

2 Barn Doors

• 4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 28 1/4″ – door stiles
• 4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ – door rails
• 4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 28 1/2″ cut to fit – door X pieces
• 8 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 21 1/2″ – door panels (may also be 1/4″ thick)
• 4 – 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ (trim to fit) x 21 1/2″ – door panels (may also be 1/4″ thick)

Cut Diagram

Boards

Plywood 

Tools Used

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw or circular saw
• Table saw and dado set
• Drill
• Sander
• Biscuit jointer
• Kreg measuring tool
• Tape Measure
• Kreg Shelf pin jig
• Router
• Planer
• Pocket hole jig
• Brad Nailer 

Center Cabinet Build

Cut the pieces for the center cabinet.

Frames

Glue together front face frame: 2 each 2 1/2″ x 35 1/4″ and 4″ x 41″ pieces. Check to make sure the face frame is drying square by measuring diagonal to diagonal and opposite diagonal to diagonal, the values should be the same.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in the ends of the back support stiles and rails. Also drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material along the outer stiles to attach the back support to the side panels later.

Glue together back support and secure with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the center stile in the center of the rails.

Dados

Once the face frame glue is fully dry, cut 1/4″ deep x 3/4″ wide dados on both edges and at 4″ up from the bottom.

On the side panel, cut a 1/4″ deep x 3/4″ wide dado 4″ from the bottom, also cut the dado 8 3/4″ from the front of the side panel. Note: make sure to make the side panel dado’s mirror image of each other. 

On the divider panel, cut 1/4″ deep x 3/4″ wide dado 4″ up from the bottom.

Assembly

Glue the bottom piece to the face frame 4″ dado. Glue a side panel to the face frame and bottom.

Glue the divider panel to the side panel and bottom piece.

Then glue the other side panel to the face frame, bottom and divider. Use clamps to hold the panels in place while the glue is drying.

Secure the back support to the side panels with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Make sure the center cabinet is drying square.

Trim the shelves to fit. Use shelf pins, brackets or pocket hole screws to attach the shelves to the center cabinet.

End Cabinet Build

Cut the pieces for the end cabinets.

Glue together 2 front face frames: 2 each 2 1/2″ x 35 1/4″ and 2 1/2″ x 17 1/2″ pieces. Check to make sure the face frames are drying square by measuring diagonal to diagonal and opposite diagonal to diagonal, the values should be the same.

Glue together 4 side face frames: 2 each 4″ x 13″, 2 1/2″ x 35 1/4″ and 2″ x 35 1/4″ pieces. Check to make sure the face frames are drying square by measuring diagonal to diagonal and opposite diagonal to diagonal, the values should be the same.

Place X pieces under the dry side face frame and mark the angles that need to be cut for the X’s. 

On the backside of the side face frame, mark 1/4″ inset on the 2″ stile side. Glue and secure the side panel pieces to the side face frame with 1 1/4″ brad nails. (A gap of side panel pieces at the bottom will not be seen.)

Cut X pieces to fit in the side face frame. Glue the X pieces in with 1 1/4″ brad nails. (Cut to fit, the measurements below are for reference only).

Cut a 1/4″ deep and 3/4″ wide (or the thickness of the end cabinet bottom plywood) that is 4″ from the bottom of the side panel. Remember the side panels need to be mirrored for each side of the end cabinets. The 2″ stile needs to be towards the front.

Once the face frames glue is dry, cut 1/4″ deep x 3/4″ wide dados along each outer side, and 4″ up from the bottom.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in both ends of the top and bottom support pieces.

Then in the 4″ bottom support piece, cut a 1/4″ deep x 3/4″ wide dado at the top.

End Cabinet Assembly

Use wood glue and clamps to attach the side panels to the end cabinet front face frame. Then glue in the bottom plywood piece. Make sure the 2″ side panel stiles are towards the front and the side panels are flush with the sides of the front face frame. Brad nails can be used to help secure the side panels in place.

Attach the bottom and top support pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Make sure the cabinet is drying square (diagonal to diagonal measurements), use clamps to hold it square during drying time if needed.

Attach the back 1/4″ plywood with brad nails.

Repeat for 2nd End Cabinet.

Shelves

Glue together boards for 4 end cabinet shelves.

Attach shelves to end cabinets, use shelf pins, brackets or pocket hole screws.

Barn Door Build

Cut the pieces for the barn doors. Glue together the face frame for each door. 2 each 2 1/2″ x 28 1/4″ and 2 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ pieces. Check to make sure the face frames are drying square by measuring diagonal to diagonal, the values should be the same.

Line up barn door panel pieces, trim pieces to be 21 1/2″ x 28 1/4″. Glue the panel pieces to the back of the barn door face frame. Secure panel pieces to the face frame with 1 1/4″ brad nails.

Cut the 2 1/2″ wide X pieces to fit into the door frame. Secure to the barn doors with wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails.

Cabinet Tops

Glue together the cabinet top pieces. My boards were a little wider than nominal board that you buy, my cabinet top ended up being 19″ wide. Each end cabinet needs a top that is 23 1/2″ x 18 1/2″(or 19″). The center cabinet needs a hinge piece of 8 3/8″ x 46″ and a front piece that is 10 1/8″ (or 10 5/8″) x 46″.

Attach the cabinet top pieces to the cabinets. Tops can be attached to cabinets with pocket hole screws, brackets or Z clips.

Finish

Fill all nail holes and blemishes with wood filler and allow to dry. Sand the barn door console table smooth, starting with 80 grit sandpaper and working up to 180-220. I stained the console table with Varathane Briarsmoke. Once the stain dried, I applied 2 coats of satin polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats.

Install TV Lift

The TV Lift is easy really easy to install. The top of the TV lift mechanism is installed about 1/8″ from the top. Center the mechanism in the exact center of the back support. Secure the TV Lift Mechanism with the included screws.

Make sure the mechanism will be straight up and down, then secure the bracket at the other end.

Activate the lift, then install the TV mount bracket.

Finally the TV is attached to the TV bracket, and the bottom support plate is placed near the bottom of the TV.

Install Barn Door Hardware

I centered and installed the barn door hardware bar with the included lag bolts, first predrilling the attach locations.

Then driving the lag bolts into the cabinets.

Attach the rollers to the door at the proper height and placement.

Download the plans to build the –> Barn Door Console Table with Hidden TV Lift <–

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The post Barn Door Console Table with Hidden TV Lift appeared first on Her Tool Belt.

I picked up some fun rustic cherry wood that was on a clearance sale a little while back. With no project in mind, it has been patiently waiting to be turned into something useful and beautiful. I finally decided on a small side table to use up the wood. The side details on the Lisa Side Table are totally optional, but I think they add a lot to the look of the side table.

I have been testing out the DEWALT 20 volt circular saw during this build and it has been cutting smooth as butter through the cherry hardwood.

DEWALT 20V Flexvolt Circular Saw

I am reviewing the DEWALT model# DCS573B 20-Volt MAX Circular Saw with flexvolt advantage.  Let’s check out some of the features of this DEWALT model:

Features

• Size: 7 1/4″, max depth of cut of 2-9/16 in. at a 90° and max depth of cut of 2 in. at a 45°
• Compatible with all DEWALT 20V MAX and FLEXVOLT batteries.
• It has an electric brake stops the blade after the trigger is released.
• The circular saw includes on board storage of blade changing tools.
• With 5,500 rpm, the saw has not problem cutting through hardwoods and softwood.
• Check out more at Home Depot –> link here <–

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Building the Lisa Side Table

Materials List

• 2 – 1×8 x 8′ boards
• 2 – 1×3 x 8′ boards
• 3 – 1×2 x 8′ boards
• 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
• wood glue
• sandpaper
• 1 1/4″ brad nails

Cut List

• 4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 28″ – front and back legs (stiles)
• 4 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 28″ – side legs (stiles)
• 2 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 17″ – upper front and back (rails)
• 2 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 11″ – upper side (rails)
• 4 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 17″ – front and back shelf supports (rails)
• 4 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 11″ – side shelf supports (rails)
• 2 – 3/4″ x 7 1/4″ x 22 1/2″ top
• 1 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″ top
• 4 – 3/4″ x 7″ x 20 1/2″ – shelves
• 4 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 20 1/2″ – ledges (optional)
• 16 – Trim pieces

Cut Diagram

Tools Used

• DEWALT Circular Saw 
• Sander
• Scroll Saw
• Drill
• Brad Nailer
• Measuring Tape
• Straight Edge Guide
• Rip Cut
• Planer – for rough sawn wood
• Clamps

Step 1 – Prep Wood

This step is needed with random width hardwoods. If using dimensional lumber from the store, step 1 can be skipped.

I planed the cherry wood down to the nominal wood working thickness of 3/4″.

Now that the boards are all flat and 3/4″ thick, time to get a straight edge to cut from. I used a straight edge guide and used the circular saw to trim an edge of the boards straight.

Then I used the rip-cut to rip the boards down to the correct widths.

Step 2 – Cut and Glue

Cut the board lengths according to the cut list.

Glue the top pieces together along the 22 1/2″ edges, and glue 2 sets of shelves together along the 20 1/2″ edge.

• Top dimensions: 16″ x 22 1/2″
• Shelf dimensions: 14″ x 20 1/2″

Drill pocket holes

• In each of the 11″ and 17″ pieces, drill pocket holes in each end.
• The ‘upper’ pieces, drill pocket holes to attach the top later.
• In the Side Legs, drill pocket holes along one long edge (about 5 or more spaced evenly).

Build the front and back face frames with the 2 1/2″ wide legs and 17″ long pieces. The upper piece is flush with the tops of the legs. The middle shelf starts 13 1/2″ from the top and the lower shelf starts 26″ from the top (leaves 1/2″ gap from the bottom).

Repeat for the side face frames.

Build the side face frames with the 1 1/2″ wide legs and 11″ long pieces. The upper piece is flush with the tops of the legs. The middle shelf starts 13 1/2″ from the top and the lower shelf starts 26″ from the top (leaves 1/2″ gap from the bottom).

I used wood glue and 1 1/4″ fine thread pocket hole screws to assemble the 4 face frames.

Step 3 – Detail Trim

The side details are optional. I used the scroll saw to cut out 16 pieces.

You can download the Ornamental Detail Trim template –> Here <– Make sure to print it at 100%, not ‘fit to page’.

The trim details didn’t fit as perfectly the first time as I hoped. I had to sand and trim the pieces to fit. Then I glued the trim details into the side face frames.

Once all of the glue has dried, I sanded all of the pieces smooth.

Step 4 – Side Table Assembly

The side face frames are attached to the back face frame. I used wood glue and 1 1/4″ fine thread pocket hole screws.

The side face frames are then attached to the front face frame. I used wood glue and 1 1/4″ fine thread pocket hole screws.

The side assemblies should be flush with the outside edge of the front and back face frames.

Shelf Support

The shelves can be attached to the frames with pocket hole and pocket hole screws, or ledgers can be attached to the rails to support the shelves.

I attached 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 20 1/2″(or a little less) to the rails (flush with the bottom), securing with 1 1/4″ brad nails.

I centered and attached the top with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, making the back of the top flush with the back of the side table.

Finally I placed the shelves on the ledges, they can be tacked into place with brad nails. Alternately, the shelves can be secured in place with pocket holes/screws.

Step 5 – Finish

Sand all of the wood smooth, and apply your favorite finish to the wood.

Download –> The Lisa Side Table Building Plans – Here <–

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“I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the Tool Review Program. As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.”

The post The Lisa Side Table appeared first on Her Tool Belt.

No gas, No Pull-Strings, No Carburetors, No Problem! We have almost fully converted to all battery operated yard equipment (tiller is our last one standing). I can’t believe how amazing the battery operated yard tools perform with the new battery and motor technology these days, it’s hard to tell the difference between gas powered and battery powered tools. DEWALT has a battery operated lawn mower that runs off of 20 volt batteries! Say What?!?!

DEWALT 20V Lawn Mower (21 1/2″ self propelled)

Today, I am reviewing the DEWALT model# DCMWSP244U2 20-Volt + 20-Volt max lithium-Ion 21 1/2″ self propelled walk behind Lawn Mower. I’ve been excited to see how a lawn mower running off of 20 volt batteries would perform. 20 volt, seriously, that is the same voltage as much of the DEWALT platform. You can use the 20 V battery to power your drill, saw and lawn mower.

Let’s check out some of the features of this DEWALT model:

What comes in the package –

• DEWALT 21 1/2″ Lawn Mower
• 2 – 10 Ah 20 volt Max batteries
• 2 – 20 volt battery charger
• Clippings Bag
• Mulch Plug
• Safety Key

Features

• It is powered by 2 – 20V DEWALT Batteries, so technically it’s a 40V mower that runs off of 20V batteries and the 10Ah batteries provide 400 watt-hours.
• This lawn mower has a 21 1/2″ deck.
• It has Auto Sensing technology which increases or decreases the torque depending on what you are cutting.
• The lawn mower’s 3-in-1 capability allows for mulching, bagging or side clipping discharge.
• 6 cutting heights that range from 1 1/2″ to 4 1/2″, depending on your preferred lawn height.
• The Self Propelled feature is adjustable depending on how far back you engage the handles, allowing you to choose your walking pace.
• There are 2 height options for the handle, great for us shorter folks!
• Compact upright storage option.

How It Works

One of my absolute favorite features about this DEWALT Lawn Mower, is its compact storage design.

Place the mower on it’s wheels, then rotate the two side knobs to rotate the handle.

Put the handle in the high or low position, and rotate the knobs to engage the pins securing the handle location.

Open the lid and insert 2 charged 20V batteries.

Then if bagging the clips, pull up the back flap and place the clipping bag into the slots.

Insert the safety key into the console.

Finally the safety sequence to start the lawn mower.

1. Press the center button down
2. then pull back the bar/lever

Voila! Ready to mow.

I let the yard grow for 2 weeks, to really put this mower through the paces. The DEWALT lawn mower did an excellent job cutting the longer than usual grass. It would only occasionally bog down on large chunks crab grass (the worst grass). It really is a champ. I have a little over 1/3 acre, and it mowed about 2/3 of the yard on a single charge. On a normal grass length, I’d be able to almost mow the whole yard on one charge. If you have other DEWALT tools, you can always pop those 20V batteries in to finish up any work. That is one fantastic feature about this 20V+20V lawn mower. For the best run time, I would suggest cutting frequently (usually weekly at my house) and waiting for the grass to be dry before mowing.

Conclusion

Overall this DEWALT lawn mower is an excellent battery powered lawn mower. The 20V+20V battery platform offers so much versatility being able to be used on 200+ DEWALT products. The included 10Ah 20V batteries offer a long run time. The ergonomics of the DEWALT lawn mower are great. I really like the self propelled speed control, but I love the compact storage design. The DEWALT lawn mower is and excellent addition to your DEWALT tool collection (or a great place to start ).

The cordless 20V DEWALT Lawn Mower can be purchased at your Home Depot or online at Homedepot.com –> link to product <–

Thanks for pinning!

“I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the Tool Review Program. As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.”

The post DEWALT 20V Lawn Mower Review appeared first on Her Tool Belt.

No gas, No Carburetors, No Problem! I love my battery powered tools, and now my battery powered yard tools as well. Years ago, battery powered lawn tools would limp along compared to gas powered. But with the battery and motor technology these days, it’s hard to tell the difference… well not really, you don’t have to pull the string over and over to start it. I’ll press the button and charge a battery any day.

DEWALT 60V Cordless String Trimmer

Today, I am reviewing the DEWALT model# DCST972X1 FLEXVOLT 60-Volt MAX Lithium-Ion Cordless Attachment Capable String Trimmer.  It’s power and run time will not disappoint!

Let’s check out some of the features of this DEWALT model:

Features

• It is powered by a DEWALT 60V Battery. It comes with a 9 Ah FLEXVOLT 60V but is also backwards compatible to work with 20V DEWALT tools.
• The motor is universal attachment capable, accepts DEWALT attachments as well as other universal brands making it very versatile.
• It has 2 – speed settings HI and LO for added power or extended run time.
• It is compatible with 0.08″ duel line.
• Adjust the swath size between 15″ and 17″ for a larger area of cut.
• With the battery installed, the DEWALT String Trimmer only weights 12.8 lbs.

How It Works

The DEWALT String Trimmer can be stored in 2 pieces or swap the string trimmer attachment with another attachment like a edger, pole saw or hedge cutter.

Slide the attachment shaft into the motor shaft. Then after the button engages, secure the pieces together with the wing nut.

Slide a charged 60 volt DEWALT battery on the end and you’re ready to go.

Choose your speed setting HI or LO.

Then flip the safety switch forward, press down on the upper trigger and press up on the lower trigger to start the head spinning.

It has a large bump button and feed trimmer area, to make it easy to extend the string as you go.

The 9Ah 60 volt battery allows me to trim around my whole house, my outer fence and up and down the sidewalk and driveway.

Changing String

Changing the string is easy too. Press the plastic tabs in, on the sides of the string holder, and pull off the holder.

Line up the holes and thread the line thru the center. Pull the string to be even on each side.

Press the outer covering in and turn clockwise until about 5″ of string is showing.

Replace the cap and you’re ready to go.

Conclusion

Overall this DEWALT String Trimmer is an excellent battery powered string trimmer. The 60V battery offers plenty of power for long periods of time. I am able to trim the edges of my whole yard, around my house and along the sidewalks and driveway on one battery charge. I really like that the motor can be used with various attachments. The DEWALT string trimmer is light weight and ergonomic to use. I would definitely recommend it to any friend.

The cordless 60V DEWALT String Trimmer can be purchased at your Home Depot or online at Homedepot.com –> link to product <–

Thanks for pinning!

“I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the Tool Review Program. As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.”

The post DEWALT 60V Cordless String Trimmer appeared first on Her Tool Belt.

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How to Open and Clean Gas Fireplace Glass

Materials

• Cerama Bryte
• Sprayway Glass Cleaner (from Costco)
• Cooktop Cleaner and pads alternate
• Fireplace Glass Cleaner alternate – cleaner made for fireplace glass
• paper towels

My gas fireplace is a Napoleon GD36NTR, but the same process can be used on other brands and models although placements may be different.

* * * Warning – Make sure the glass is cool before cleaning it. * * *

Remove the louvres – if present

My upper louvre is removed by pulling up and out.

The lower louvre on my fireplace flips down. Then turn the fireplace knob off and turn the gas off.

Unlatch Glass

Look for latches that secure the glass frame to the fireplace. Mine are one on top and bottom of the right side. Some may have both latches on top.

Undo the latches and open the glass door. Or if your glass pulls up and away from the fireplace, then remove it from the fireplace.

Clean Gas Fireplace Glass

• Use a soft rag and wipe away loose dirt and dust.
• I used cooktop glass cleaner and a scratch free scrubbing pad to clean off the caked on gunk. They do make cleaner for fireplace glass – here.
• Make sure your cleaner is ammonia free and non-scratch.

Buff the cleaner onto the glass and scrub until the film and gunk are gone.

Then I used ammonia free spray glass cleaner to get the inside glass shiny and streak free.

Once the inside is clean, I latch the glass back onto the fireplace.

Ignite Fireplace Pilot Light

To turn on the Pilot Light:

• Rotate the main gas line on (yellow knob in same direction as the line).
• Turn the fireplace knob to Pilot and press the knob in, you should hear gas flow.
  • hold the pilot knob in while igniting the fire.
• Press the igniter to light the pilot light (repeat until it lights).
• Hold the pilot knob in for 15 sec or longer, release pilot knob.
• If the pilot light stays lit, turn the knob to On.
  • if the pilot light turns off, repeat the ignite process.

Replace the louvres.

Wow that makes a huge difference!!! All clean…

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The wood bunny basket, in it’s natural form…

A couple of the bunny baskets after the kids took over…

Watch the Bunny Basket Video

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How to Build a Wood Bunny Easter Basket

Materials

• 1 – 1×8 x 8′ board
• 1 – 3/4″ round dowel
• scrap wood or lath strips (about 60 cents/strip in store)
• 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws or 1 1/4″ brad nails
• 3/4″ brad nails or 3/4″ tack nails
• scrap 1/4″ or thinner material – optional bunny details
• sandpaper
• wood glue

Pattern

• Print Bunny Pattern

  • Make sure to print at 100%, not ‘fit to page’.

Tools Used

• DeWalt Miter Saw
• DeWalt Scroll saw
• Brad nailer – optional
• Measuring tape
• Hammer – optional
• Pocket hole jig – optional
• Table saw – optional for slats
• Drill
• 3/4″ Drill Bit
• Sander
  • Belt sander

Cut List

You can make the Wood Bunny Easter Basket as long as you want, the following is for a 12″ long basket.

• 2 – 3/4″ thick Bunny Shapes
• 1 – 3/4″ round dowel” x 11 1/2″ – handle
• 8 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ x 12″ – slats or use lath strips
• 1 – 3/4″ x 4″ x 10 1/2″ – bottom or use more slats or lath strips

Step 1 – Prep

Trace the bunny pattern 2x, make sure to mark the dot for the dowel. Cut out 2 bunny shapes using a scroll saw, jig saw or band saw.

Then sand the edges smooth.

Drill a 3/4″ hole on the dowel mark, about 1/2″ deep. I used a 3/4″ forstner bit. Then I wallowed around the hole a little to give the dowel enough space to slide in easily.

Also cut a 3/4″ round dowel to 11 1/2″ long.

If you want a smooth bottom basket, cut a piece of wood to 4″ wide x 10 1/2″ long. Drill 2 pocket holes for 3/4″ material in both ends. Alternate: Cut 4 or 5 additional slats to nail to the bottom.

Step 2 – Wood Bunny Easter Basket Assembly

If doing the solid bottom 

Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the 4″x10 1/2″ piece centered and flush with the bottom of the bunny.

Add wood glue and place the 3/4″ dowel in the hole.

Add wood glue in the other bunny. Secure the opposite bunny with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Measure up about 1/4″ from the bottom of the bunny and secure the first slat with 3/4″ nails.

Attach slats with 3/4″ nails, allowing about 1/4″ between each slat. I used 4 – 3/4″ wide slats on each side. If you use lath, you can adjust the quantity to whatever looks good.

I used a 1/4″ piece of scrap wood for a spacer between slats.

Step 3 – Bunny Details

If you want to add some of the bunny pop out details, cut out the ears and nose from 1/4″ or thinner scrap material.

Sand the edges smooth. Then paint the details and let dry. Once the details are dry, glue them onto the ears and face with super glue.

Step 4 Finish

Fill nail holes and blemishes with wood filler and allow to dry. Sand the wood bunny basket smooth with 120 grit or finer sandpaper. Paint or stain the wood bunny basket as desired.

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How to Build a Farmhouse X Nightstand

Materials

• 1 – 1×8 x 8′ board
• 2 – 1×6 x 8′ boards
• 3 – 1×4 x 8′ boards
• 1 – 1×3 x 8′ board
• 2 – 1×2 x 8′ boards
• 2 – 2×2 x 8′ boards
• 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
• 1 1/4″ brad nails
• 3/4″ brad nails for the back
• 3 – 16″ drawer slides
• Varathane Briarsmoke
• sandpaper
• wood glue
• 3 – drawer pulls, mine are mission style
• wood filler

Tools Used

• DeWalt Miter Saw
• Router
  • router bits – chamfer and 1/4″ straight bit
• Brad nailer
• Measuring tape
• Pocket hole jig
• Drill

Cut List

• 4 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 25 1/4″ – legs
• 3 – 3/4″ x 6 1/4″ x 21″ – drawer fronts (cut to fit)
• 1 – 3/4″ x 7 1/4-1/2″ x 26″ – top
• 8 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ – side planks
• 2 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 26″ – top
• 6 – 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ – drawer f/b
• 6 – 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 15 3/4″ – drawer sides
• 2 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x cut to fit – X pieces
• 6 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 21″ – support rails
• 4 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ – side rails
• 3 – 1/4″ x 15″ x 19 1/4″ – drawer bottom
• 1 – 1/4″ x 21″ x 22 1/4″ – back

Cut Diagram

1/4″ Plywood Cut Diagrams

Step 1 – Nightstand Sides

Tapering the legs is an option step and only for looks.

Taper legs

Mark over about 1″ on the end of the legs, cut a 15 degree angle to create a leg taper. Repeat on an adjacent side, so 2 sides are tapered. The tapering can be done on a table saw, jig saw, circular saw or miter saw with a jig.

Assemble Side Panels

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in both ends of the 1×2 x 14 1/2″ side rails. On the legs, mark down from the top 20 3/4″. If the legs are tapered, orient the tapers to be on the inside corners, see sketch. Secure the 14 1/2″ side rails to legs with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. One side rail will be flush with the leg tops and one at 20 3/4″. Repeat for 2nd side assembly.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in both ends of the 1×6 x 14 1/2″ side planks. Sand a small round over/chamfer on the 14 1/2″ edges for plank line definition. Secure the 14 1/2″ side planks to legs with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Repeat for 2nd side assembly.

Cut the X detail pieces to fit from the 1×3 (2 1/2″ wide) board. The following angles are for reference. Attach X pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails.

Step 2 – Build Nightstand

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in both ends of the 1×2 x 21″ support rails. If you want to attach the top with pocket holes, then drill pocket holes in 2 support rails along a long side and attach these rails at the top.

Front Support Rails

On the legs, mark down from the top 20 3/4″. On the front legs mark down 7 5/8″ and 14″ from the top, also mark 1 1/4″ inset from the front.

Secure the 21″ support rails to legs with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

• Attach one vertical, flush with the front and top.
• Attach one horizontal, inset 1 1/4″ and 7 5/8″ down from the top.
• Attach one horizontal, inset 1 1/4″ and 14″ down from the top.
• Attach one vertical, flush with the front and 20 3/4″ down from the top.

Back Support Rails

• Attach one vertical, inset 1/4″ from the back and flush with the top.
• Attach one vertical, inset 1/4″ from the back and 20 3/4″ down from the top.

Repeat to attach to the other side assembly.

Join Top

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in one side of the 1×6 x 26″ top pieces. Glue together the 3 top pieces, secure the 26″ top pieces with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

If desired, route a chamfer on the underside of the top, on the side and front edges.

Attach the top to the front and back top rails with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws or 5/8″ screws and top attach brackets.

Step 3 Drawers

Each drawer will have a 1/4″ drawer bottom, 2 sides 15 3/4″ long and 2 front/backs 18 1/2″ long. Mark 3/8″ up from the bottom of each side/front/back piece. Use a router with 1/4″ straight bit, circular saw or table saw to route a groove 1/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep.

On the opposite side as the groove, drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in each end of the 18 1/2″ front/back pieces. Note: Don’t drill a pocket hole too close to the groove.

Secure a 18 1/2″ piece to 2 sides (15 3/4″) with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Slide a 1/4″ bottom piece into the groove, and attach another 18 1/2″ piece to the sides with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Repeat to make 3 drawers.

Attach the 16″ drawer slides to the bottom of the drawers. Attach the other portion of the drawer slides to the nightstand sides aligned with the top of the support rails.

Trim the drawer fronts to fit, leaving a 1/16-1/8″ gap. Secure the drawer front to the front of the drawer with 1 1/4″ screws from the inside of the drawer into the drawer front. Attach drawer pulls to the drawer as desired.

Attach the 1/4″ back with 3/4″ brad nails.

Step 4 Finish

Fill all nail holes and blemishes with wood filler and allow to dry. Sand the nightstand smooth, starting with 80 grit sandpaper and working up to 180-220. I stained the nightstands with Varathane Briarsmoke. Once the stain dried, I applied 2 coats of satin polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats.

Download the plans for the Farmhouse X Nightstand –>Here<–

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Mantel Before

The mantel wall is on a corner angle, then has a jut back to the main wall. Originally I assumed that the wall was at a 45 deg angle, however I was very wrong, ha It is something around 35.8 deg. Well isn’t that convenient. I used that 18″ jut back to the wall, and added a built in media cabinet.

The purpose of the cabinet is two fold:

1. Create a balanced look from the front.
2. Create a storage area for all of the electronics and media stuff.

Modern Farmhouse Mantel After

My husband was concerned with the viewing height of the TV above the fireplace. I found a cool TV mount that easily drops down to bring the TV to a comfortable viewing height. You can find it on Amazon here. The size linked fits my 70″ TV, but they have different sizes depending on the TV weight.

I’m especially loving the new media cabinet on the left of the fireplace that holds all of the electronics, cords, XBOX and DVDs.

Note Before Beginning – 

If you’re going to tackle this project, you’ll first want to check out the requirements for your fireplace set up, check your user manual or google your fireplace make and model.  Generally you’ll want to keep combustible materials at least 6″ away from the fireplace. There may also be a minimum distance away from fireplace and Mantel Height vs Mantel Depth clearance as well.

In my user manual for a Napoleon fireplace, there is a linear scale for mantel height vs depth. Starting at 2″ from the fireplace, the material can’t stick out to more that 2″, 4″ from the fireplace, the material can’t stick out more than 4″, 6″ for 6″, etc.

So in my case, measuring from the tile surface, the mantel legs and face stick out 4 1/4″ and they are at least 6″ from the fireplace.  If you need more clearance than I have, adjust the frame size to fit your need, then follow the same process in building up the MDF pieces and adjusting to the size of your frame. It really is a simple process to build this fireplace mantel.

 This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy. 

How to Build a Modern Farmhouse Mantel

Overall dimensions of the new mantel.

Materials

Mantel

• 2 – 4’x8′ sheets of 3/4″ MDF
• 2 – 2″x4″ x 8′ boards
• 2 – 2″x4″ x 104 5/8″ boards
• 8′ – CM794.25 3/4″ x 4 1/4″ R&G MDF CRN crown molding (Wheelwright Lumber)
• 8′ – 1/4″ x 1 3/16″ #183 panel molding (Wheelwright Lumber)
• 3″ construction screws
• 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 2″ finish nails (brad nails could be used)
• spackle
• caulk
• paint primer
• white paint
• sandpaper

Tools Used

• Ridgid Finish Nailer
  • with Ridgid air compressor
• DeWalt Miter Saw
• Ridgid NXT Shop Vacuum
• Dewalt Circular Saw
  • with Kreg Rip cut
• level
• Measuring tape
• Putty knife
• Caulk gun
• Pocket hole jig optional
• Drill
• Stud Finder
• 3/8″ drill bit

Cut List

2×4

• 4 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 50″ – frame legs
• 1 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 67″ – frame top
• 1 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 49″ – frame middle
• 2 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 6″ – frame lower support
• 2 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ – frame support

MDF

• 3 – 3/4″ x 10″ x 80″ – top
• 1 – 3/4″ x 11 1/2″ x 67″
• 1 – 3/4″ x 5 1/4″ x 68 1/2″
• 1 – 3/4″ x 4 1/4″ x 47 1/2″
• 4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 39 1/4″
• 4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
• 4 – 3/4″ x 5″ x 5 1/2″
• 2 – 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 5 1/2″
• 1 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 68 1/2″
• 2 – 3/4″ x 9″ x 40″
• 2 – 3/4″ x 4 1/4″ x 51 1/2″
• 2 – 3/4″ x 4 1/4″ x 40″
• 2 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 8″
• 2 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 12″

Frame Cut Diagram

MDF Cut Diagrams

Step 1 – Assemble Mantel Frame

Cut the 2×4’s according to the cut list.

Drill pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material in one end of each of the 50″ boards, and both ends of the 49″ board. (Note: pocket holes are not required, the boards can be attached with 3″ screws thru the 50″ boards.)

Mark down 8 1/2″ from the top of the 50″ boards. Attach the 49″ board to the 50″ boards with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, at the 8 1/2″ marks.

On the 67″ top board, mark 7 1/2″ over from each end. Secure the 50″ boards to the 67″ top board with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws 7 1/2″ from each end.

Attach 2 more 50″ boards flush with the ends of the 67″ top board with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

The 6″ and 8 1/2″ support pieces are used to secure the frame to the wall. Place these support blocks in locations that will correspond with 2×4’s in your wall around the fireplace. Secure the support blocks flush with the back of the frame with 2 1/2″ or 3″ screws.

Locate the studs in the wall surrounding the fireplace. Center the frame over your fireplace. Use 3″ wood screws (or longer) to secure the frame to the wall thru the 6″ and 8 1/2″ support blocks into studs in the wall.

Step 2 – Build Up Modern Farmhouse Mantel

The first step is to cover the face of the frame with MDF. If you adjusted the frame size, cut the MDF to fit the face of the frame. Use a finishing or brad nailer and secure the MDF to the 2×4 frame with 2″ minimum length nails.

Measure the wall to face of the MDF, and cut side pieces to fit all around the mantle. Secure the size MDF pieces to the frame with 2″ finishing or brad nails.

Modern Farmhouse Mantel Details

The top 5 1/4″ x 68 1/2″ piece is based on the crown molding I chose to go under the Mantel Top. The crown molding is just under 3″ tall, leaving about 2 1/2″ showing of the 5 1/4″ piece. You can adjust the width of the 5 1/4″ piece according to the crown molding you choose to use. Adjust the length of the 4 1/2″ vertical pieces as needed.

Attach all of the MDF details with 2″ finishing or brad nails. Take care to line up the edge pieces with the mantel sides, then cut the middle pieces to fit.

Wrap the base of the mantel legs with 5 1/2″ pieces, secure with 2″ finishing or brad nails.

I wanted the Mantel Top to look chunky like the rest of the mantel. I laminated (glued) together the 3 – 10″ x 80″ MDF pieces together in a triple stack and let that dry for a day.

Then I sanded the front and side edges smooth. I routed a small chamfer on the edges for detail. Then I cut the angles to fit in the corner, making sure to keep the center of the top, lined up with the center of the mantel frame. Once the mantel top fit perfectly in my odd corner, then I drilled a few 3/8″ holes about 1″ down and 1 1/2″ from the back of the top, to secure the top to the 2×4 frame.

I secured the mantel top to the frame with 3″ wood screws. Then I filled the holes with spackle or putty.

I trimmed the top of the legs with 1/4″ x 1 3/16″ #183 panel molding, cutting to fit and securing with 2″ finishing nails. Then I trimmed under the top of the mantel with CM794.25 3/4″ x 4 1/4″ R&G MDF CRN crown molding, cutting to fit and securing with 2″ finishing nails.

To help secure the crown molding, I cut little triangle support blocks out of scrap 2×4 and secured them to the mantel, the attached to crown to the mantel. (The triangle blocks were kind of a pain to attach to the mantel, I’m not sure they were worth the effort???)

Step 3 Finish

MDF can look amazing once painted, and it’s all about the prep before painting!!! The MDF cut edges need a little extra attention to look good. I like to sand all of the edges smooth with the adjacent side pieces, then apply a thin layer of spackle. Once the spackle is dry, sand them smooth. Also fill the nail holes with spackle, removing any raised MDF from the nail. If any nails are above the surface, use a nail setter punch and hammer to tap the head below the MDF surface. Then use caulk to fill in any cracks and gaps around the edges of the mantel, between the mantel and wall, and also around all of the MDF and molding trim pieces.

I primed the modern farmhouse mantel with primer and let the first coat dry. Once the primer is dry, make sure to use a sanding sponge or sand paper to sand all of the cut edges of the MDF smooth. Priming will often raise the raw fibers of the MDF, sanding these smooth after priming will make all of the difference in the world on the finished product!  Then I applied a second coat of primer, followed by 2 coats of Behr Cabinet and Trim white paint. Sanding between coats as needed.

I’m super happy with the results. I love having the TV up and out of the way, and the white mantel turned out beautiful.

Download the plans for the Modern Farmhouse Mantel –>Here<– 

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Modern Farmhouse Mantel in a room corner.

The post Modern Farmhouse Mantel Makeover – Corner Fireplace appeared first on Her Tool Belt.

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A look at the upper cabinets.

A  view of the Tall cabinet and Folding table.

This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy. 

How to Build Budget Laundry Room Cabinets

Materials

• 4 Sheets of 3/4″ plywood (4′ x 8′)
• 1 Sheet of 1/4″ plywood (4′ x 8′) door panels
• 8 – 1×4 x 8′ boards (ripped down to 3″)
• 2 – 2×2 x 8′ boards
• 1 – 1×2 x 8′ boards
• 1 – 1×8 x 8′ board
• 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
• 2 1/2″ washer head cabinet screws
• 6 pairs of euro hinges for frameless cabinets
• 3/4″ edge banding
• sandpaper
• wood filler or putty
• paint primer
• paint (Cabinet and Trim)
• 5 door pulls

The tall cabinet, folding table and two upper cabinets cost me about $330.

Tools Used

• Miter Saw
• Drill
• Table Saw or router table/router
• Tape Measure
• Jig It concealed hinge drilling system or Concealed hinge jig
• Sander
• Kreg pocket hole jig
• Drill bits
• Clamps
• Paint Sprayer
• iron
• level
• laser level
• painters tape
• Stud finder

Cut List

Tall Cabinet

• 2 – 3/4″ x 16″ x 96″ tall cabinet sides (plywood) (This is for 9′ tall ceilings, consider 90″ or 84″ if your ceilings are 8′.)
• 1 – 3/4″ x 19 1/2″ x 96″ tall cabinet back (plywood) (This is for 9′ tall ceilings, consider 90″ or 84″ if your ceilings are 8′.)
• 4 or 5 – 3/4″ x 15 1/4″ x 19 1/2″ tall cabinet shelves (plywood)
• 1 – 3/4″ x 5″ x 21″ tall cabinet base front (plywood) This is meant to raise the cabinet just above the baseboards, adjust for your baseboard height.
• 2 – 3/4″ x 5″ x 13 1/4″ tall cabinet base sides (plywood) This is meant to raise the cabinet just above the baseboards, adjust for your baseboard height.
• 1 – 3/4″ x 5″ x 19 1/2″ tall cabinet base back (plywood) This is meant to raise the cabinet just above the baseboards, adjust for your baseboard height.
• 2 – 3/4″ x 3″ x 95 1/2″ tall cabinet door stiles
• 5 – 3/4″ x 3″ x 15 3/8″ tall cabinet door rails
• 4 – 1/4″ x 15 3/8″ x 20 7/8″ tall cabinet door panels

Folding Table

• 4 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 35 1/4″ folding table legs
• 2 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 27″ folding table rails
• 3 – 3/4″ x 7 1/2″ x 30 3/4″ folding table top
• 1 – 3/4″ x 27″ x 31 1/4″ folding table back
• 2 – 3/4″ x 18″ x 31 1/4″ folding table sides
• 1 – 3/4″ x 19″ x 27″ folding table bottom
• 1 – 3/4″ x 19 3/4″ x 27″ folding table shelf

Upper Cabinets

• 4 – 3/4″ x 11 7/8″ x 42″ upper cabinets sides
• 4 – 3/4″ x 11 7/8″ x 28 1/8″ upper cabinets top/bottom
• 4 – 3/4″ x 11 1/8″ x 28 1/8″ upper cabinets shelves
• 2 – 3/4″ x 28 1/8″ x 40 1/2″ upper cabinet backs
• 8 – 3/4″ x 3″ x 41 3/4″ upper cabinet door stiles
• 8 – 3/4″ x 3″ x 9 3/8″ upper cabinet door rails
• 4 – 1/4″ x 9 3/8″ x 36 1/2″ upper cabinet door panels

Cut Diagram

3/4″ Plywood

1/4″ Plywood

Boards – Doors

Boards – Folding Table

Building the Tall Cabinet

Cut the tall cabinet parts according to the cut list.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in the 2 long sides of the tall cabinet back piece.  In the tall cabinet shelves, drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in the 2 short sides and 1 of the long sides.

Shelf placement in the tall cabinet is totally up to you and your needs. The following instructions allow for vacuum storage in the cabinet.

From the bottom of the back piece, measure and mark 52 3/4″ and 67 1/2″.

Attach the tall cabinet shelves with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws flush with the top and bottom of the tall cabinet back. Also attach shelves at 52 3/4″ and 67 1/2″.

Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the tall cabinet sides to the bottom, top and back pieces.

Attach the tall cabinet shelves to the sides with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Tall Cabinet Base

Cut the base pieces according to the cut list. You can assemble the base with screws, brad nails or pocket holes/screws. Attach the back 19 1/2″ piece to the two 13 1/4″ side pieces. Then attach the sides to the 21″ front piece.

Building the Folding Table

Cut the folding table parts according to the cut list.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in the 2 long sides of the side and back pieces.  Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in 3 sides of the shelf and 4 sides of the bottom piece.

If desired, taper the folding table legs at the bottom with a 10 deg cut, no more than 3″ high. Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in both ends of the 27″ pieces.

Mark down 30 1/2″ from the top of the legs. Also mark in 1/4″ from the backside of the legs. Attach the 27″ pieces to the legs with wood glue and 1 1/4″pocket hole screws at the top and at 30 1/2″. Also inset the 27″ pieces 1/4″

Attach the back piece to the back legs with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. The tops should be flush.

Secure the side pieces to the front and back legs with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Then attach the bottom to the front, back and sides with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, make sure the bottom is flush with the top of the lower rail. Mark up 14 1/8″ from the bottom. Secure the shelf to the sides and back with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in one long side of 2 top boards. Secure the 3 top boards together with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Attach top to folding table.

Building the Upper Cabinet

Cut the upper cabinet parts according to the cut list.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in 4 sides of the back, the 2 short sides of the top and bottom, and 3 sides of the shelf pieces.

From the bottom of the back piece, measure and mark 13″ and 26 3/4″.

Attach the upper cabinet shelves with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole at the 13″ and 26 3/4″ marks.

Attach the upper cabinet top and bottom with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole to the upper cabinet back.

Then attach the upper cabinet sides to the back and top/bottom with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper cabinet shelves to the sides with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Building the Cabinet Doors

Cut all of the door stiles to length according to the cut lists, rip the boards to 3″ wide.

Each door stile will need a groove down the center of one long side that is 1/4″ wide (or the thickness of your door panel) and 3/8″ deep. The groove can be made using a table saw or a router table.

Cut all of the door rails to length according to the cut lists, rip the boards to 3″ wide.

Each door rail will need a groove down the center of one long side that is 1/4″ wide (or the thickness of your door panel) and 3/8″ deep. 3 of the upper cabinet door rails will need the 1/4″x3/8″ groove on both sides. The groove can be made using a table saw or a router table.

Next we need to cut the tenons (tongue) in the ends of each door rail piece. The goal is to have the tenons fit snuggly in the stile groove, but not too tight. Make the cuts 1/4″ deep and 3/8″ back from the ends on both ends. See sketches below. Test the cuts and make sure they fit in the grooves.

The doors are glued where the tenons fit into the grooves. The panel isn’t glued in, it floats in place. The panel should also have room to float, trim the length/width of the panel as needed to allow it to fit easily within the rails/stiles of each door.

Tall Cabinet Door Assembly

Measure and mark 24 5/8″, 47 3/4″ and 70 7/8″ on the two long stiles. Also mark the centers of the tall door rails.

Apply wood glue to each of the tall door rails and stiles (where the rails be placed). Assemble the tall door with a 1 groove rail on each end and 3 ea 2 groove rails in the center, with door panels in between. Use clamps to hold the door together while the wood glue dries. Make sure the door is square, and drying flat.

Upper Cabinet Door Assembly

Apply wood glue to each of the upper door rail ends and stiles (where the rails be placed). Assemble the upper doors together, see sketch. Use clamps to hold the door together while the wood glue dries. Make sure the door is square, and drying flat.

Once the doors have all dried, remove any excess glue and sand the wood smooth.

I prefer to use concealed hinges to hang doors on cabinets. Concealed hinges give you the ability to adjust the hinges once installed. It makes it easy to get the door gap just right. You do need a concealed hinge jig (forstner bit) to drill out the pocket for the hinge cup. For a long time I used this simple jig ($11-$13) to drill the pockets. It is easy to use a cheap.

However, I did get this Jig It concealed hinge drilling system and it is wonderful for repeated hinge placement and has a set depth collar.

Install 2 hinges on each upper cabinet door (about 4″ from the top and bottom), and 2-4 hinges on the tall cabinet door (avoid putting a hinges where you have shelves.

Finish

Iron on 3/4″ edge banding to the exposed plywood edges. Sand or trim the excess edge banding off the edges. Sometimes I don’t want to use edge banding, in those cases I’ll put a layer of spackle or putty on the exposed plywood edges and sand that smooth.

Fill any exposed pocket holes with pocket hole plugs or spackle. Fill any cracks or blemishes with spackle or putty.

Sand the cabinets smooth with a minimum of 120 grit sand paper.

I painted the cabinets with 2 coats on paint primer. It is critical to let the first coat of primer dry completely and sand it smooth. If the coverage is still good, then move onto paint, otherwise apply a 2nd coat of primer.  I’ve been using Behr Cabinet and Trim for furniture projects lately and really like the durable finish.

Installing the Cabinets

Find and mark the wall studs where the cabinets will be installed. Put the base where the upper cabinet will go, then place the upper cabinet on top of the base. Make sure the cabinet is level and secure the cabinet to the studs in the wall with washer head wood screws (2 1/2″ minimum length). For the upper cabinets, I marked 54″ up from the floor and marked a level line. Then I screwed a scrap piece of wood under the level line. I placed the upper cabinet on the scrap wood as a ledge, made sure it was level and plumb. Then secured the upper cabinets to the wall studs with washer head wood screws (2 1/2″ minimum length). I also attached the mating upper cabinet sides together with 1 1/4″ pan head screws (pocket hole screws).

After the upper cabinets were installed, I removed the scrap wood ‘ledge’. Install the cabinet doors and enjoy all of the storage space!

–> Download Laundry Room Cabinet Printable Plans – here <–

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