This might be the world’s smallest camera strap for the Pentax K-01?!

Since it’s too thick to add any snaps or buckles, I decided to sew it on permanently. To get it off, you… have to cut it to pieces.

iPhone 4/4S case with belt clip. It is large enough to fit the iPhone with a case around it (specifically designed to fit the Incipio iPhone 4 4S DRX Semi-Rigid Soft Shell Case)

Here’s a recent wallet I finished. It’s done in Whiskey with red thread. Check out the complete tutorial if you want to make one yourself or go here to order one that I can make for you.

The second version of this case has an improved lining and a better way of holding the iPad in place (it fits iPad 2 and the third generation iPad).

When I got my Amazon Kindle Touch, I started making a case similar to the one I made for the Kindle Keyboard before (check out the tutorial for that case here).

But I wanted to do something different! I started to play with the flip cover idea and made this flip-case design instead:

Basic:

To start out, you’ll need your leather pieces (whatever project you’re working on or maybe just some scrap to practice on), a Stitching Wheel, Stitching Groover, Sewing Awl, 2 Needles, Waxed Thread and any kind of scissors.

Even more basic:

If you’re only sewing one project and you don’t want to buy too many tools, you could start out with only a Sewing Awl, 2 Needles, Waxed Thread and scissors. To get even stitches, you would have to make sure that you mark each stitch by hand (using a ruler or something similar). It’s very important to have even stitching with a constant distance to the edge as well as constant stitch length.

Step 1: Glueing leather pieces

Glueing the pieces in place helps with your sewing because you won’t have to worry about the leather not lining up. Use any leather glue you can find.

Step 2: Stitching Groove (optional)

If you have a stitching groover, use it to create the groove along which you’ll sew. If you don’t have one, you could mark a line with a ruler and any tool you can find that can leave a slight mark on the leather. You will need a guide to sew along if you want it to look even!

Step 3: Mark Stitch Spacing (optional)

If you have a stitching wheel, mark the spacing like you can see it in the photo. Without one, you could use the awl to lightly mark the leather at even distances. Again, this is important preparation to get an even and professional look.

Step 4: Prepare Thread & Needles

Prepare your 1 thread with 2 needles (one on each end). Check out this tutorial for more details.

Step 5: Pierce the leather with the awl

Note: I’m using a stitching pony in the photos. You won’t need one to start with or if you only do a few projects but it helps to hold your leather in place while sewing.

The leather is very thick and you’ll have to pierce the holes using an awl. When doing so, make sure you always hold it straight and don’t pierce the leather at an angle. You can use your left hand to support the leather on the other side if it moves too much.

Step 6: Pull first needle through

Pull the needle through the hole until you are at the centre of the thread (each side should have the same amount of thread).

Note: I’m going to refer to the needle in your right hand as needle 2 and the one in your left hand as needle 1.

Step 7: At the second hole

Pierce another hole next to the previous one with your awl and push the left needle (needle 1) through while holding the needle 2 behind it.

Once you pulled needle 1 through the hole, twist your right hand (holding both needles) towards you and push needle 2 through the same hole as the thread. Be careful not to pierce the thread!

Here’s another view:

Make sure to always pierce the needle next to the thread (closer towards you) to make the stitches more even.

The rotation creates a knot that can now be pulled through the leather:

Step 8: pull the thread tight & repeat previous step (Step 7) for each stitch

Step 9: At the end of the stitch

When you’re finished, make sure to backstitch 2 holes into the direction where you started to secure the thread. You can use your awl to enlarge the existing holes.

Step 10: Finishing

Cut the threads close to the leather.

If you’re using polyester thread or unwaxed thread that might start fraying, you can burn the ends of the thread to melt them. That will keep them from fraying. Be careful not to mark or burn the leather!

Finished!

If you have a stitching wheel, you can run over the stitch again to even them out even more. It helps to give your project a better look and feel! Here’s a closeup of a piece of hand sewn leather scrap:

Step 1:

To help push the thread through the needle, I cut it on an angle. The wax keeps the thread together and it makes threading the needle easier.

Step 2:

Pull the thread through and pierce it:

Step 3:

Pull the thread back through:

Step 4:

If you pulled it through all the way, you’ll see that it formed a knot at the end of the thread (see above) and twist it to lock it in place.

Done

You can use some extra bees-wax to join the thread together if it doesn’t have enough on it already. Repeat the same steps for the other end of the thread so you have 2 needles on one thread and then you’re ready for sewing!

This wallet is based on my first leather hard case with an added slot for up to 4 or 5 cards. Everything is made by hand.

I’m fed up with the flimsy storage pouch for my (relatively) expensive SLR lenses so I started designing replacement cases.

This is my first basic prototype to see how it would work to make one to fit my Pentax 17-70 F4.

The stitching is all hand-made using a very strong kevlar thread.

Things to note: I’m working on improving the dimensions, the way it opens (the “hinge”) and some other smaller improvements like a belt attachment for when I decide to wear a belt.

Tools used:

• Strap End Punch
• Straight Edge Ruler
• Scalpel
• head knife
• heavy mallet
• stitching groover
• overstitch wheel
• wool dauber
• edge slicker or bone folder

Step One: cutting the parts

You will need a total of 4 pieces of leather in 2 different thicknesses (these measurements fit iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S):

1. The large outside piece: 285mm by 87mm at around 2.5-3mm thickness
2. The inside piece that holds the phone: 130mm by 87mm at around 2.5-3mm thickness
3. The two credit card slots made from thinner leather: 97mm by 87mm and 77mm by 87mm at around 1.5mm thickness

Cutout

You need to cut out a part of the inside piece (the one that holds your phone in place) to allow you to take out the phone easier. I used a Strap End Punch but you can also just trace a half-circle and cut it out with a scalpel. This is what it looks like after punching out the top cutout:

These are our pieces loosely put where they’ll end up:

Smooth flesh side

You can use gum tragacanth to make the flesh side of the leather smoother. Smoother flesh side of the leather:

Stamping the inside piece

Moisten the leather piece to prepare it for stamping: Once it’s almost dry you can place the stamp on the leather and give it a good whack with a heavy mallet. If your leather is too wet, the impression won’t be as crisp. Generally it’s a good idea to wait for the leather to almost return to its original colour before you stamp it.

Stamped leather:

Cut rounded corners

Use a scalpel to cut a rounded corner. I used a 1cm square as reference so that’s the corner radius.

Glue parts in place

It’s a good idea to glue the parts in place before sewing. Proper alignment is very important if you want the wallet to look good. This is what the assembled parts look like:

Add stitching groove

Use a stitching groover to add a grove as a guide along both sides. Be careful! The other side won’t need a groove all the way along the edge. You can stop where the bottom piece of leather ends on the other side.

Add stitching spaces

Use an overstitch wheel on one side as a guide for your stitches. I use them as guides when hand sewing as well as machine sewing.

Sew the parts together

Once you’re done sewing (check out my tutorial), use a lighter to burn the ends of the thread to keep them from fraying. Cleaning up the stitches afterwards using the same overstitch wheel helps to give the stitches a good & even appearance.

Fitting & shaping

I use a Belkin plastic iPhone case to stretch the leather into shape. I find that it works better than using the phone because I don’t have to worry about ruining it with moisture and having it slightly bigger than the phone also makes the shape more ideal (the phone will slide in and out a bit easier). You could also use the phone itself or just stretch the leather into shape with your hands.

Cutting the edges

You want to have the edges align perfectly so cut or sand down the edges to make them as even as possible:

Dyeing the edges

Use a wool dauber and dark dye around the edges of the wallet:

Refining the edges

Use a edge slicker or bone folder and move it back and forth along the edges to make them smooth. Before: After:

Seal & finish

Use your leather finish of choice to seal and waterproof the leather. You can use an oil or one of the other available finishing products.

Hope this post will help some of you to make one of these wallets. If you tried it, please let me know in the comments! If you want to show off your work, feel free to add a link to a photo, too.

Want to buy one instead of making one?

The one you can see in this post is not available for purchase but you can add one to your cart and I’ll make one to order: