Himalayas - The Gateway to Heaven

The Ostrich and the Fool

2015-05-24T06:47:00.001-07:00

Once there lived a fool. He had great expectations of himself and his future. Living in a glass house was his dream. He wanted to enjoy the nature around him every moment in the day. One day, he actually built a beautiful, delicate glass house for himself. He could see everything! He could lay down on his bed and look at the beautiful nature outside. Wood apple was one of those fruits he couldn't resist. He planted ten wood apple trees all around the glass house and went to sleep feeling satisfied and blissful.

Days went by, then months. The trees grew to their full size and towered over the glass house. At last, the fool could see the fruits growing. He was the happiest fool in the whole land. He would have his favorite wood apples now. The wood apples grew in size, they were huge and ripe.

One night, as the fool was dreaming about his wood apples, he heard a loud sound and the shattering of glass. He thought "Oh my god! Someone is destroying my house!" He took his gun and came out. Then there was sounds as if millions of glasses were shattering. He saw that all his wood apples were falling on top of his glass house and shattering every bit of it. He was helpless as he watched his house crumble to pieces.

He also didn't have much use of the wood apples after and he didn't have a house either.

Then there lived an Ostrich. He was clever and all aware. He knew what was happening around him all the time. He lived on the banks of the great river. Everyday he saw the water rising, everyday he knew that it would eventually break its banks. But he continued to stay there.

One day, when the river actually broke the banks and the flood began, he stuck his head inside the sand and was very happy. He said "Now that I cannot see the waters, I am safe!". Eventually the waters rose and the whole land was flooded. Inevitably the Ostrich was swept away and he drowned.

The world is the glass house. It is being shattered everyday. We can hear and see the effects each year as the weather deteriorates. To enjoy beautiful gifts like the Himalayas, we need a beautiful planet, which is more diseased today that any past ages. There are studies continuously published highlighting the stark and gory effects we are causing our mother earth.

Then there are two kinds of people, the fools and the Ostriches. We can make a big difference by being neither and by being Human Beings and taking action. Which one are you?

Walker’s paradise Dalhousie, the jewel of a hillstation – beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 15

2014-06-28T08:50:00.001-07:00

Exploring Dalhousie—a jewel in the Himachal hills

It took all of half an hour to 45 minutes at most for the early morning to be over. When we left the valley scene below us, half the valley was still in the shadows of our own hill. It would take some more time for the sun to reach our hotel and the tree-lined avenue running in front of it.

We retired to our rooms after knocking at the restaurant for breakfast. We felt the day started quite well and wanted to make the most of it. The brightness of sunshine outside had elevated our spirits greatly.

Usually breakfast in modest hotels and guest houses in the northern parts of this country comes in three or four standard options. Bread, butter and milk with omelette is the most common option, followed by Aloo Parantha and Dahi, Puri and Bhaji or Cornflakes and milk. Both of us settled for the first option. It would be filling and acceptably tasty at most places. Aloo Parantha would have been a bit risky in a cold place like this, we felt. When properly made, a crisp and soft Aloo Parantha with Dahi and a pinch of salt tastes heavenly. But it is a delicate dish. Slight undercooking or overcooking may leave you highly dissatisfied. Specially when you know how good it could taste. It is all about expectations, I guess.

A short flight of stairs took us to the road. It was nearly 9 and the valley fully lighted up. Sun had risen high enough now to reach our road and the faraway snow peaks on the east nearly invisible in slight haze.

Dalhousie valley bright and smiling in the morning sun

We decided to explore first our part of this small world. Subhas Chowk, the main junction of two circles of 8, lay behind us. We went forward.

Yesterday was our first day and we had reached late in the day. We couldn’t perceive the grandeur of the surroundings fully. Now in bright daylight a narrow winding road lay invitingly in front of us. Tall trees flanked the road.

Tree-lined avenue - upper Dalhousie

The hill sloped gently upwards on the left and when we looked closely, we could detect wire fences going up—these were occupied territory. The narrow road curved on the left and we could just see a viewpoint at the turn of the hill road.

Viewpoint on the Viewpoint Avenue

This viewpoint commanded the west valley view of Dalhousie and looked very inviting. “Imagine how good that would be if it were heavily snowing or raining now.” I told Tukai. He smiled, “But it is a bright day and April. Would you like to sit for a moment?” I smiled back. He knew very well I don’t like to stop when roaming unless dead tired.

As we looked on the right, dense tree cover greeted us. It was just like a forest. But when we looked closer we could detect signs of houses nearly hidden away behind the trees.

Dense tree covered hillside - upper Dalhousie

Our progress was very slow. There was no time or destination target for us. The varieties of trees stopped us every now and then. We marveled at the beauty of the trees on this stretch of road.

Fascinatingly tall trees

The more we went forward the trees looked to be older and more densely formed. After crossing the viewpoint the road curved left and then right. A number of old trees with specially thick trunks adorned the right flank of the road.

Shaded stretch

This was a stretch with particularly heavy shades. Every stretch on such a hill road has its own character. For a brief period the shady area was liked. A flock of jet black mountain crows kept Tukai occupied for some time and I searched for interesting breaks through the trees. By and by in due course of events we went ahead leaving the shade behind and reached the place that turned out to be the most interesting and attractive to both of us in Dalhousie.

Multi-layered attractive place

In no time we noticed the sign of Sacred Heart. This is a very old school and this sign was for its junior wing with a West Valley view we presumed. The whole place was deserted, the trees were of all types a few of them old guards and most interestingly we could savor roads at more than three levels within a very short space.

A place we liked

Everything in the scene in front of us was in place, right where it should be. The only thing lacking was a living moving human being.

Road on the right nearly hidden - all four levels visible now

The Sacred Heart entrance on the right was nearly hidden from view. The main road veered right and then took a turn left. Hill stations, specially 150 year old hill stations like Dalhousie still holds some mysteries for its suitor.

Before leaving the place I couldn’t resist to have a quick look towards east through the trees.

Clouds adorn the sky - snow peaks hidden now

Clouds had risen from their sleep in the valley below and gathered over the hills. Those were the last of the clouds, non-threatening, harmless—now only ornamental to the sky.

I looked nearby. Creepers engulfed the whole broad trunk of a giant tree nearby and reached its branches.

Giant tree

Throughout the morning we noticed splashes of red amongst the trees. A few trees were full of the red flowers and attracted immediate attention. We didn’t know the name of the flower, but appreciated its bright red color.

Splash of red

The road finally moved left and around the hill—we reached the other side of the hill. This was the other arm of the smaller circle of 8.

Hill on the other side

The hill opposite was with good tree cover and also showed modern constructions. Civilization had spread over the hills all around.

Shopping street

My friend mentioned about this street. Shops, banks, post office lined up the street—this was the Shopping Street. Not good to look at but necessary. A number of shops carried the old colonial ambiance by their quaint looks.

Company on the deserted road

We quickly completed the round and returned back to our valley side arm of the road. Two ladies walked fast towards us on an otherwise empty road. It was noon, not very hot, but still lunchtime.

I asked Tukai, “Go in?” “A few minutes more.” Tukai was not fully satiated. I also had in mind the empty road going downhill that we met earlier. This special road we had met after crossing out hotel.

Come, explore me

This road branched out from the main road and went downhill. It feels good to get on to such unexpected pathways. I noticed the tree a little ahead full of red flowers. Going down looking sideways at first I couldn’t recognize our hotels. These hotels were built from rocks below up to five stories high to reach the upper level of the main road.

An unusual view

The sun was now high overhead. No shadow of the hill on the valley below. With dense tree cover all around them, the colorful little houses lay supremely peaceful under the sun. The whole world was so beautiful.

Peaceful under the sun

We turned back. A memorable sunlit morning lay behind us.

Early morning at Dalhousie, the jewel of a hillstation – the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 14

2014-06-12T13:45:00.000-07:00

Delicate pink touch on snow top – early morning at Dalhousie—a jewel in the Himachal hills

Yesterday evening again we went out for a short after-dinner walk along the Viewpoint Avenue. In a way the avenue, arguably the best walking stretch in Dalhousie, lay across our doorstep. It was so convenient! I came to know later that the hillock around which our road turned round was called Portreyn Hill. Consequently we could have called our Viewpoint Avenue as the Portreyn Avenue also. But for me, convenience in a name was of utmost importance, and so it would be Viewpoint Avenue for us.

It was about 8.30 in the evening. The street lights customarily dim. Dots of lights spread all over the hillsides below, above and front. Only in the night, if you look from the top, you can get an idea of the true extent and spread of civilization. Oh, the lights even had spread to the sky! The stars twinkling through the thick foliage of the old trees made us happy. We could still make out hints of dark grey smudges of remnants of clouds. But the sky was clearing up, no doubt.

Before we started the trip I had asked my friend, how to go about covering the city of Dalhousie as a tourist—can he tell me where I can get a Dalhousie City map? He was very amused but answered with his characteristic seriousness, “No tension. Dalhousie main city roads form the shape of a large 8. Your hotel is on the smaller circle of the 8. Subhas Chowk is at the junction of the two circles of the 8 and Gandhi Chowk is at the outer tip of the larger circle of 8. You can walk on and on, round and round, and cover most of the important points of interest without ever getting lost.” We later found the idea of 8 to be the best and smallest city map of Dalhousie.

It just so happened that our hotel was located near the midway point of valley facing arm of the smaller circle of the 8. This part of the road we named our Viewpoint Road. Many places on this road had old metal railings where you could rest your elbows and look down to the valley below. On your far right, you could make out parts of the Pir Panjal range far away. The jagged barren peaks would move from right to left unceasingly for some time. Directly straight opposite stood a large hill rising so high that it had got crowned by a nice patch of pure white snow last winter. From this hilltop the range continuously lost height towards left and merged with the plains—how, we had seen on our way up here.

But that was yesterday. Today we woke up suitably early. Quickly we put on our clothes and came up to occupy a vantage point of observation. This was on the rooftop of another hotel at road level with railings towards the valley. We stood facing the valley with no obstruction in front. The sun had risen only a few minutes. A delicate touch of pink painted the snow top of the large hill straight across the valley.

First light on the snow cap of the large hill

The whole of the valley and our side of the hill, all were dark without sunshine yet. The sun had risen behind the hillock at our level on our right. I couldn’t resist the temptation to have a closer look to the dimpled pink snow patch. It was cute with soft inviting curves.

Inviting pink snow bed

It seemed to be permanent snow but I had doubts. Compared to other temporary snows it might last longer, but it should also disappear by a month at most I guessed.

I panned my take from left to right with the same middle distance zoom. As we turned our head right, we would approach the sunrise area, and the pink tinge would disappear in increasing white glare.

Lights not yet touched nearly any other peak

The pink-top hill was barely in view far left as we had moved our field of view to the right quite a bit. Nearby below us lower parts of Dalhousie were still in the shadow zone. Not only the larger peak but a few smaller peaks also got a touch of first sun.

A few more pink touches at the top

This time we had turned our view right slightly, not much. The pink-top was still visible at the far left corner, but only a small part. On the Valley below, a distinctive orange colored two storied smart looking house had entered the frame far right.

Waiting for light

The orange-colored house had now moved on the left of the field of view. There was little to identify amongst the jagged edges of the cliffs on the horizon. But one thing was sure—practically no peak had any light on them. The ridge at the back had started showing ice on their peaks.

Signs of permanent snow peaks

The line of the trees below curved upwards indicating that we approached the higher level hill that actually blocked the sunrays. On the horizon now the real snow peaks were on view. None had any light on them except a rounded domelike one. This was the ridge farthest back.

Tinged real snow peak

Not a great change. The four storied green topped white house had shifted left along with the dome-like pink-tinged snow peak. A portion of the railing on the rooftop balcony the photographers stood on showed up—we had nearly reached the end. Still there was no light on the snow peaks except on the white dome on the far left. But these were the real snow peaks with permanent ice and were part of the Pir Panjal range. And it occurred to me from last evening’s memories—we would get a good sunset view today—the sun would set far left of the frame and would color the snow ranges on the far right very comfortably.

Jagged line of peaks of Pir Panjal

This had been our last and rightmost shot of the panned series. Still the jagged peaks of Pir Panjal at the horizon were without light. When light would come, it would come in color white.

Hillock behind which the sun rose

This had been the hillock further right at the upper road level that blocked the sun all this time. The hillside at this level was more densely inhabited. Tree covers had not been cleared but modern colorful buildings at various levels had come up within the trees. Road surfaces were not visible, but with high zoom those also came into view. On the whole, Dalhousie habitation nestled on densely wooded hillsides almost wholly covered by thick greeneries.

It was April, the dusty period. The greens turned into grey this time. I could imagine how beautiful it would look just after the rainy season, all freshly washed sparkling green. But again, with a delay of two more months, we would have clear cold days interspersed with snows.

By now the sunrays had come down from the pink top and covered half of the valley below. The other half was still in the shadow of our own hillock only, I suddenly realized.

Half the valley sun-drenched

Now the sun was up drenching half the valley in clear bright light. The shadow retreated towards us but slowly. It was the shadow of our own hillock.

Dawn on the horizon

Looking wide and far in front the pink haze near the horizon heralded breaking of the day. The ridge lost height on the left, gradually fading away. Somewhere on the left large water bodies lay.

Plains beyond

That was the way river Ravi went down. That way we came. While coming up, we didn’t see the large lakes. Only now we got a hint just on the edge far left.

Large water bodies ahead

Sporadic large water bodies indicated large lakes, but as the whole area lay on the path of Ravi we couldn’t be sure that those were not fragments of the flow of Ravi itself.

All along, the red roofed house attracted our attention. Though it was some distance away from us towards left, its location was great and it stood alone. It was prominently visible from all over the hillside.

Picturesque building

It was shaded by thick woods on three sides. No other habitation nearby—quite secluded with only trees as company. Farther away the hill fell away to the Ravi valley below. What a place for meditation!

Later in the day we identified the attractive building for what it was.

Straight view

By then the sunlit zone had advanced quite a bit towards us. From the level we stood, the woods were thick going down. After a gradual slope the land flattened out and stretched forward. The green cover disappeared gradually. We could identify some important buildings in this area by their size and construction.

Densely wooded area

But on another part, the stretch near the drop to the gorge below was still found to be wooded. From the looks of it, this was not an official area. The orange house caught our attention from this moment on.

A rare cluster of houses

Usually houses didn’t crowd on each other in this area. Higher up on the upper levels, clusters might be common, but not here. Nevertheless some clusters were inevitable, even on this woody stretch.

The orange house

The orange house looked like a toy house, but it was very attractive. On the whole expanse there was not any other construction half as eye-catching. Now in bright sunlight we could see signs of further habitation on the second rise further away.

A village at Dalhousie

We turned our attention to a less inhabited area. We could spot terraced cultivation for the first time here. That must be a modern Dalhousie village around the cultivated fields. A few clusters of houses still appeared on view frame.

Thick healthy woods

I wanted to see the woods in full glory. These were middle altitude trees and seemed to be much younger than most of the trees lining up our Viewpoint Avenue. My initial assumption was perhaps wrong—the trees were cut away alright. But replanting and caring for the trees started since at least fifty years had passed.

I looked at my watch. It was just about 7 am. “Let’s go inside,” Tukai echoed my thoughts.

We went down a few steps to our hotel room, sated. Enormous stretches of beautiful scenes merged together in a uniform pleasurable sensation.

Jammu to Dalhousie, the jewel of a hillstation – the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 13

2014-06-09T12:15:00.000-07:00

Dusk at Dalhousie—a jewel in the Himachal hills

We had arrived from Kolkata two days ago. My friend made plans for me and Tukai to enjoy the Himachal hills along with our stay at his Jammu house. I had heard lots about Dalhousie. It still is one of the renowned old-time hill stations in the Himalayas. Though my friend spent many years in Jammu, it had been more than a decade now he moved over to Himachal on work. His weakness for Himachal was apparent, to which I also became a party.

In Jammu and Kashmir Himalayas, Kashmir is one famous tourist place, but Himachal is all dotted over with many popularly known and not so well known tourist spots of great natural beauty. Overall on the basis of variety, Himachal was favored. And which place should be the first? It was easy to decide—Dalhousie was still considered a prime hill station in India.

We started after breakfast from Jammu towards Dalhousie. We would have to travel along this national highway 1A a number of times in near future. We could maintain a good speed through the plains of Jammu and Kashmir. First halt would be at Kathua from where we would turn north towards the hills and Dalhousie.

Though we were not conventional tourists, we looked forward to our first destination Dalhousie where we would stay back for three days and then my friend would take a break from his work and join us at Dalhousie for the next part of our trip. Me and Tukai would be on our own for two clear days at Dalhousie before bidding goodbye to it.

As the car sped across the plains we looked out to the ripe golden crops swaying on both sides of the road. This was harvesting time. Shortly harvesting will start. But now stalks full of grains filled our vision.

At home we live amongst a forest of brick and mortar. Here the open fields made us happy and want to stop the car. It always feels nice to stop on a road cutting across open nature and walk around awhile in it. I went down for a short walk into the golden stalks.

Golden crops

The narrow path curved left to the village hidden in the clump of trees. This is our countryside, typical. The area type being Punjab, Haryana, Jammu and Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh, the crop most probably was wheat or bajra. Good thing about these croplands—you could walk easily inside if you wish. Back home we are used to rice fields which are not so easy to negotiate.

But leaving aside the ease of walking in, these fields, be it wheat or rice, never fail to stop me in my tracks with their quiet deep charm. To feel this charm you would have to go down to the level of the stalks and sit amongst them for a few minutes.

Feeling them

Turning back I joined my friends. Straight ahead lay the road through two rows of overhanging mango trees on the two sides. I call this a mango avenue—another of my favorites on the Indian roads.

Mango avenue

After we crossed the avenue, scenery changed. Low hills came into view. The first hills always create a sense of excitement.

First hills

Far away from the bed of river Ravi rose low hills. This is Ravi valley. It was inhabited as it should be. Most civilizations started along a valley. The wide expanse of the spot where we stopped gradually went down to the valley. The flowers reminded us of home. These wayside flowers are spread all over our country.

Surprised flower buds

The buds must have been very surprised to be photographed first time in their short life. But that’s Tukai.

The road moved straight ahead rising slowly, with Ravi valley accompanying us on the left. A little ahead the valley narrowed and the river came nearer. The road still moved straight. But this can’t go on indefinitely. We had to rise to an altitude of about 6500 feet. The valley had no other option than to get narrower as the river rose.

Suddenly with a cry of surprise we stopped the car. Ravi had surprised us with a sharp bend to the left. Looking down we had to acknowledge it as a blue beauty.

Blue beauty

The color of the water bore the stamp of permanent ice high in the mountains. Ravi is a proud perennial river. Looking up, the spectacular horseshoe turn greeted me.

Horseshoe turn

You may understand a river flowing straight down, but it takes a while to absorb the complexity of the events and circumstances that brought in this unnatural shape. This I call—nature’s will. All in all, this will is what keeps life interesting.

We moved on and up the bare hills. Now I knew why I all but forgot the road to Dalhousie. In early April it was barebones rocky hills practically devoid of any noticeable green tree cover.

Barebones hills

The road hugged the hills and rose. All along the path rose the river. Time to time the river vanished from sight, again appearing a few minutes later. A rare wide patch on the river bed had attracted the farmers. It looked picturesque.

Farmers' delight

This was a special mountain road, not like others. Take for example the road to Darjeeling. The way twists and turns and rises all the time. The view changes every few seconds. That is the usual Indian mountain road. Locally we call this a ghat road.

Today we were not on such a usual Indian mountain road. Turns were few, the road mostly rose on straight stretches. All around it was drab grey. Hillsides were covered with shrubbery. Occasionally, the barebones hills were dotted at the top with a few stick like trees further accentuating the bareness. The uncared-for wayside flowerbed somehow saved the day for Tukai.

Wayside flowerbed

We decided against any further halt. It was hunger call. The car passed through lower Dalhousie which was clean and neat, and quickly reached the upper Dalhousie. It rolled forward on level road, went down a bit at a fork, and at last, there beckoned our hotel. Room was fixed beforehand by my friend from Jammu. We finalized our lunch order and retreated to our room.

Now I felt tired and cold—without much heed we had risen quickly from the hot plains to about 6500 feet.

After lunch I retreated further inside the quilt. Tukai pulled me up, pushed me out and we boarded the car again. Some amount of daytime was still left.

As the car moved slowly on the narrow level road on the Dalhousie mountain top I wanted to move a bit away from the main town into trees. That we found after a short walk from a point where we parked the car. It was in a way outskirts of Dalhousie town.

Dalhousie outskirts

The hillsides were dotted with signs of habitation. The place was good—full of greenery and generally level. Now the streams were all dry, but water supply would come not from natural streams but from civic water supply system—the perennial river Ravi still lay on one side, though a few thousand feet below.

While I was with the green hillsides far away, Tukai focused his attention nearby. The day was near its end and light weak. I liked his attempt to capture the play of golden light on lime green young fronds.

Play of light on lime green fronds

Tukai looked up and asked, “Where is the snow view?” It was a desire natural to him. I knew little about Dalhousie except that it was an old renowned hill station. I asked a gentleman passing by. It turned out that the road running one level up near our hotel was one of the main roads and from there only we could have snow view.

We turned back and left the car a little before our hotel. Dalhousie was built for walking leisurely, and not for zooming about riding in modern day demons called cars.

Truly there was a snow view, though far away and looking small and weak.

Dalhousie snow view at day end

For me it was no disappointment—in my long life, I had seen some great snow views of Himalayas. Tukai also seemed to be unaffected. We turned and walked on, crossed the fork going down to our hotel and stopped together.

Now we liked the view. The old trees lend a lot of charm to Dalhousie and we both are fond of old trees. At this moment the grandeur of the trees could only be felt in fading low light, not seen. From tomorrow onwards we would see them in full glory. I felt happy.

Looks good

A bit of slow walk helped us adjust to the surroundings. Now we felt comfortable and were in no hurry to return. At least till the daylight remained. Tukai not only looks near at his feet but also looks up to the sky time to time.

Dusk at Dalhousie

It was dusk at Dalhousie. Tomorrow we would hopefully wake up to a brightly lit morning.

Author’s Note: This was a trip from Kolkata to Jammu where we had about 12 days. We went from Jammu by car to Dalhousie first. That was our prime destination. From Dalhousie my friend picked us up for Khajjiar for a one night halt. From Khajjiar we returned back to Jammu via Jyot.

Later we made a short visit to Dharamsala and then ended the whole trip with Patnitop. Except Patnitop all the places were in beautiful Himachal.

Memories of those days come back to me vividly with scenes of tall mountains covered with high altitude trees, winding ghat roads along the hillside, down below occasional thin silver streak of a river flowing through the green valleys and glimpses of majestic Himalayan snow peaks.

Travel guide to Bara Mangwa – an idyllic getaway in Darjeeling Himalayas part 3

2014-05-11T03:06:00.000-07:00

The land of blue mountains and green rivers—How to reach, where to stay and local attractions

Location & Description

Bara Mangwa is a small village in the hills of Darjeeling district of West Bengal, India. In local Lepcha language the name Bara Mangwa translates to the big (“Bara”) land of finger millets. A neighbouring settlement is Chhota Mangwa - meaning the small (“Chhota”) land of finger millets. The hill is also sometimes referred to as the Mangwa hills.

The hills of Mangwa are characterized by forest covers, terrace farming and orange orchards. Winding trails offers excellent opportunity to explore the area on foot at one’s own pace.

Lone hill-tracks

The village lies on the eastern slopes directly facing the hills of Kalimpong and Dello on the other side. River Teesta flows along the valley in between. On clear days, a panoramic view towards North unveils a series of mountain folds visible all the way up to Nathu La pass in Sikkim. The hill town of Darjeeling lies around 40 kilometers towards West.

The major railway junction of New Jalpaiguri near Siliguri and the airport of Bagdogra are approximately two and half hours drive away towards South, well connected by fairly good roads.

Folds of the Himalayan range

How to reach

New Jalpaiguri and Bagdogra are respectively the nearest major railway station and airport for Bara Mangwa and also the hills of Darjeeling and Sikkim. Tourists can take rented vehicles from here.

Travelling for 25 kilometers North on the National Highway 31/31C through tea plantations and Mahananda Wildlife Santuary in the foothills, one reaches Sevok. This is the place where one gets the first glimpse of river Teesta and also the start of the hill roads. From this point onwards, Teesta always gives company as the winding road climbs up the mountain on its left bank.

Soon the road passes the Coronation Bridge on the right and the highway becomes NH 31A. About 29 kilometers further North on the same route takes one to Teesta Bazar. This is a small town on the bank of river Teesta. One has to continue straight through the town passing the Teesta Bridge on the right. Crossing the bridge to the other side of Teesta would have taken one towards Kalimpong.

One now has to keep an eye for a narrower road going towards Bara Mangwa rising up steeply on the left from the main road. Destination is reached after approximately five kilometres uphill along this route through villages, terrace farms, forests and fairly sharp hairpin bends.

Tourists coming from Darjeeling, can travel upto Ghoom, then take a left turn towards Jore Bunglow. Via this route one has to cross Takdah, Tinchuley and Chhota Mangwa and finally reach Bara Mangwa.

Road through pine forests

Where to stay

The two main places to stay at Bara Mangwa are the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse and the Darjeeling Blossom Ecotourism Complex. We had stayed in the Farmhouse.

Web presences:

Bara Mangwa Farmhouse: Google+, Facebook

Darjeeling Blossom Ecotourism Complex: Website

We did not find any eateries for day visitors. For tourists staying at the Farmhouse however, excellent meals of preset menu are available at reasonable prices. These include early morning tea, followed by a generous helping of breakfast, a hearty lunch, enjoyable evening snacks and a fitting dinner. We heard that the Ecotourism Complex has similar facilities for their boarders too.

Here comes the morning tea – at the Farmhouse

Best time to visit Bara Mangwa

The so-called tourist season to visit Bara Mangwa is from October to early March. However the best time would be around November-December when the orange orchards are in their full glory. Weather is also generally good during this time. We however felt that Bara Mangwa can offer its beauties in all seasons giving pleasure to visitors looking for varied experiences.

Spring Bloom

What to see and do at Bara Mangwa

The primary attraction of Bara Mangwa is the solitude of an idyllic getaway from the hustle and bustle of a busy life. If one wants to relax for a few days and do nothing but spend leisurely hours amidst the folds of the lower Himalayas, this location is definitely a good choice.

Relaxing evening at the Farmhouse Cottage balcony among the blue mountains

As a bonus, for the enthusiastic ones there are small treks through the winding hill tracks right in the back yard where one gets to explore the wonders of a light forest with all its wonderful flora and fauna, go bird watching, make friends with the friendly locals and get a feel of their way of living.

Exploring the forest in the backyard on foot

If one wants to a be a little more adventurous, there is the option of going for white water rafting on the river Teesta in the valley below or try rock climbing on the rock faces along the mountain trails. Experts in Bara Mangwa Farmhouse offer training on rock climbing to beginners as well.

Riding the rapids of green river Teesta

In November to February, a visit to the orange orchards is also of interest. Bird life is in plenty during this time. On clear days, a short hike gives a good view of the Kanchenjunga peaks too.

Certain NGOs are quite active here in promoting ecotourism, conservation and social betterment for the local population. Visitors with inclination to support such good causes can experience these activities first hand as well.

Transporting harvest

Places of tourist interest near Bara Mangwa

A popular circuit for tourists in the Mangwa hills is Bara Mangwa – Chhota Mangwa – Tinchuley. This route can be covered in a day. Tinchuley, around 10 kilometers away is well known for its magnificent pine forest, view of the mighty Kanchenjunga peaks and sun rise points. Tourists can stay in Tinchuley as well and visit Bara Mangwa for the day.

Pine forest

A couple of tea gardens and the confluence of river Teesta and river Rangeet are also within a 10-12 kilometer distance from Bara Mangwa and are worth visiting.

One can also take day trips to the much larger towns of Kalimpong and Dello or Darjeeling.

During our day trip to Darjeeling form Bara Mangwa, we wanted to get a taste of the famed narrow gauge Darjeeling Himalayan railways too. So we had pre-booked first class tickets on this train from Ghoom to Darjeeling. We had started from the Farmhouse in our car at six in the morning and reached Ghoom at around 8:30 am. We had a quick tour at the nearby tourist attraction of Batasia Loop rail track at Ghoom and came to the station in time to catch the train coming from Kursheong en route to Darjeeling. We had requested the driver of our rented car to follow us and join us at Darjeeling railway station so that we could continue our excursion for the rest of our day journey. This added a nice extra to our bag full of good memories which we carried back from our Bara Mangwa trip.

Darjeeling Himalayan Rail – at Ghoom (Ghum) station

Parting words

Bara Mangwa is not one of those grand awe inspiring travel destinations which dots the entire range of the Himalayan range. Blown up photographs of its landscape are not likely to adorn many walls. But the place feels like a good old friend. With its open arms it makes you feel not like a tourist from outside but rather a part of it. It charms you with its simplicity and subtle beauties. And like a few more such isolated hill stations in this part of the land, it gives you the freedom to relax in the comfort of the cottages with great views or get immersed in the wilderness around.

May be that is where the magic lies…

Simple beauties

Travel Guide for Dharamshala—the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 12

2014-05-08T07:46:00.000-07:00

More on Dharamshala—beautiful Himachal

Standing on the rooftop of his house at Dharamshala my friend dispelled my doubts regarding tourist worthiness of Dharamshala, “Don’t underestimate this place as a tourist spot. In fact this is one of the major tourist destinations in Himachal. Look at the Dhauladhar. You won’t get such a close view from the comfort of your room from many other places.” I had to agree. Though the view taken was through medium zoom, even then it looked very close as if I could touch it.

Dhauladhar at touching distance

At normal view itself the high elevation makes Dhauladhar looking down to you. Later in front of his house I stood looking at it wondering, perhaps I could place a reclining chair here lounging lazily with a book and occasionally looking up at the majestic view in front of me. Here, the heavenly Dhauladhar will always be there cradling the fortunate little men. I felt a tinge of envy towards my friend.

Always be there cradling

My friend continued, “See over there—that is the International cricket stadium where IPL matches are hosted and remember—altitude of this place is near about 5000 feet. Add to that McLeodGanj where Dalai Lama had relocated his official residence. It is an international tourist attraction; and McLeod Ganj is actually a suburb of Dharamshala a little further up the hills.” “But still, excluding Dhauladhar these are kind of civilization attractions, isn’t it? You can say Dharamshala is a sprawling sparsely populated town under the shadows of Dhauladhar.” I was relentless. My preferences are always with pure nature.

My friend shook his head, “No, you may very well undertake more than one trekking trips from here, you know. And forests? Though the tree cover has thinned over the years, still Dharamshala has some good tree covers around it. While coming, you had stopped at one such stretch.” Well yes, I remembered. That was a good spot. Dhauladhar looked absolutely majestic over the tall tree tops. I really didn’t expect such a breathtaking view after a relatively dreary drive from Jammu.

Breathtaking Dhauladhar

This is but natural. Dharamshala is an old place. When it grew, ground was cleared to build accommodations. But even when we visited three years ago, it was not a crowded city. The relatively wide expanse helped.

On one side of the house of my friend was uninterrupted cropland with no visible human habitation. Multistoried buildings could be seen only on the low gently sloping hills further away. This place is large with undulating hills and valleys. It is difficult to imagine upper Dharamshala ever becoming crowded in future.

Open cropland and low hills

Dharamshala was important once, lost the prominence in between, but again regained it now. It is the district headquarters and also the Tibetan center. It has the only airport in this region. Naturally it would grow, but having the expanse and multiple suitable locations at various altitudes, it is growing without diminishing its natural beauty much.

At last when I said, “Okay I agree. I think there will be enough for me to request your hospitality in future,” my friend smiled.

Location & Description

Dharamshala is under Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh in the western Himalayas. It is about 18 kms from Kangra and is its district headquarters. Its name originated from a pilgrim’s resting place situated on the way to Dhauldhar.

Over the years it has grown to a city that is spread out in the upper reaches of long and beautiful Kangra valley. Though it has an operational airport with daily flights from Delhi, an international cricket stadium and modern market place in lower Dharamshala, it still is surrounded by relatively dense forests of Deodar and Oak in its outskirts.

The snow range of Dhauladhar surrounds the valley adding grandeur to it. The nearness of Dhauladhar lends Dharamsala with the unique distinction of being the only hill-station in India from which one can access the snowline in a day’s trek.

How to reach

To Dharamshala by Road

Being a major city and hill-station in Himachal Pradesh, by road you can reach Dharamshala by bus or by car from many cities in North India such as Pathankot, Jammu, Chandigarh, Delhi, Amritsar, Manali, Shimla or Chamba.

Pathankot to Dharamshala by road

By Pathankot Mandi road it is about 95 kms to Dharamshala from Pathankot and the road condition being generally good it should take you about two hours to reach Dharamshala by car. Himachal State Transport buses and taxis for hire are available at Pathankot.

Jammu to Dharamshala by road

From Jammu to Pathankot it would be NH-1A, rest you know—total distance would be about 200 kms. NH-1A being a national highway average speed on this stretch should be higher and you should be able to reach Dharamshala by about three and a half hours by car. We had traveled this way. You would also get regular bus service for Dharamshala from Jammu.

Chandigarh to Dharamshala by road

You can approach Dharamshala from Chandigarh also as it is about 250 kms and four and half hours drive away by car. That is comfortable as the way is mostly along national highways. You would get Haryana State Transport buses from Chandigarh as well as cars for hire.

New Delhi to Dharamshala by road

It is a long drive of 500 to 550 kms from New Delhi to Dharamshala that would take you nine to nine and a half hours by car. There is not much point in wasting so much time traveling through the plains when your destination is a prime hill-station in the Himalayas unless under special conditions. You would get regular bus services from New Delhi to Dharamshala.

Amritsar to Dharamshala by road

Amritsar and Jammu are nearly at similar distances of about 200 km by road from Dharamshala. To come from Amritsar you need to take first NH-15 and then from Pathankot take Pathankot Mandi route as before. It should take you three and half hours by car.

Manali to Dharamshala by road

Shorter route is by NH-21 and then Highway 154 through Naggar, Kullu, Mandi and Palampur. You won’t have to come through Pathankot as Manali is on east of Dharamshala whereas Pathankot is on the west. The distance is about 250 kms and it should take you about four hours by car.

Shimla to Dharamshala by road

From Shimla to Dharamshala by the shortest route it would be about 250 kms and it should take you about four and a half hours by car. Bus service is also available.

Chamba to Dharamshala by road

Chamba is near Dalhousie and it is only about 140 kms away from Dharamshala by the shortest route. You should reach Dharamshala from Chamba by about three and a half hours. Bus service is also available from Chamba to Dharamshala.

To Dharamshala by Rail

The nearest railway station is Pathankot. It is a major railway junction in north India and is connected to most of the major cities in the country. You would get State Transport buses as well as cars for hire from Pathankot.

To Dharamshala by Air

The nearest airport is Gaggal about 13 kms away. But being a small airport at a hill-station, smaller aircrafts ply in this route and flights are few. You might decide to come by air to either Jammu or Amritsar. Both, being major airports, have more flights.

Where to stay—hotels and Guest houses

Dharamshala commanding a large spread out area with a number of suburbs and also being the headquarters of Kangra district, it boasts of quite a large number of hotels spread out all across. Because of its all-seasons nature and many attractions tourist traffic is heavy here. We have listed here 63 government run and private hotels from information collected from public domain. The list has no specific order and we are not in a position to say anything good or bad about any of the entries. Even we would like to say that the list is only an indicative one and may not be fully accurate or totally exhaustive.

Himachal Tourist Development Corporation

Website: hptdc.nic.in; Email ids: dharamshala@hptdc.in

1. The Dhauladhar, Kotwali Bazar, Dharamsala (H.P.) - 176215. Tel: (01892) 224926, 224927 Fax: 01892 - 22492

2. The Bhagsu, Mcleodganj, Dharamsala (H.P.) - 176219. Tel: (01892) - 221091, 221092

3. The Club House, Mcleodganj, Dharamsala (H.P.) - 176219. Tel: (01892) - 220834

4. The Kashmir House, Dharamsala (H.P.)-176215. Tel: (01892) – 222977

5. The Kunal, near bus station, Dharamsala (H.P.) - 176215. Tel: (01892) - 223163

Private hotels

1. Hotel Sapphire, McLeodGanj

2. Hotel Upper City Heart, Naddi

3. Hotel Clouds End Villa & Cottages, Naroji Road

4. Una Comfort Nandini-Dharmshala, Naddi

5. Leisure Vacations Karnika Resort, Khaniyara Road

6. G K Conifer, Civil Lines

7. Imperial Heights Resorts, in the village of Khaniyara

8. Udechee Huts, near Dal Lake

9. The Exotica, Khanyara Indru Nag Road, Near Paragliding Point

10. Victoriya Palace, Dal Lake, Naddi

11. Hotel Asian Plaza, main Chowk, McLeodGanj

12. Hotel the Origin, Khaniyara Road, McLeodGanj

13. Villa Paradisso on Jogiwara Road, McLeodGanj

14. New Varuni House on Temple Road, McLeodGanj

15. Greenwoods Inn, Green Valley, DharamKot Road, McLeodGanj

16. McLeodGanj Homestay, McLeodGanj

17. Hotel Sahiwa, McLeodGanj

18. Dharamshala -The Sanctuary – A Sterling Holidays resort, Molhi, Near Norbulingka Sidhpur-Khanyara Road

19. Hotel Holiday Hill, Dharamshala

20. Bob’n Barley, near Sunset point, Dharamshala

21. UNA Comfort Great Himalayan Adventure Resort, McLeodGanj

22. Snow Crest Inn, near Dal lake

23. Aveda Dharmshala, overlooking cricket stadium

24. Hotel Oak Valley, McLeodGanj

25. Hill Queen, McLeodGanj

26. Asia Health Resort, Dharamshala

27. Moon Walk Residency, McLeodGanj

28. Surya McLeod, McLeodGanj

29. Hotel Gandhi’s Paradise on Dharamkot Road near starting point of trek route to Triund

30. Spring Valley Resorts, near Bhagsunag Temple

31. Hotel Country Lodge, Ramnagar

32. Hotel Pong View, Cantt. Road, with a view of Pong Dam

33. Hotel Morainic Hills in Bhgsunag

34. The Horizon Villa South, McLeodGanj

35. 9 Chimes, near Bhagsu Park

36. Staywell Hotel, Kirpu More, Kotwali Bazar

37. Snow Crest Inn, near Dal lake

38. Hotel Valley View Crest, Naddi

39. Himgiri Resorts, Naddi

40. Pema Thang Guest House, McLeodGanj

41. Bella Heights, McLeodGanj

42. Hotel Deodar Villa, McLeodGanj

43. Hotel Amandeep, McLeodGanj

44. Hotel Pink House, McLeodGanj

45. Pause Dwelling Place, McLeodGanj

46. Hotel Highland, Bhagsu, McLeodGanj

47. Hotel Centre Point, near Dal lake

48. Aakriti Hotel, Cantt. Road

49. Hotel Anand Palace, McLeodGanj

50. Hotel Grand Hill, McLeodGanj

51. Hotel Sahima, Naddi Road

52. Vikrant Hotel & Restaurant, Bhagsunag, McLeodGanj

53. Hotel Eco Nest, Bhagsunag, McLeodGanj

54. Ess & Bee Resort, Dal Lake

55. Pawan Guest House, McLeodGanj

56. Hotel Anuj Residency, Bhagsunag, McLeodGanj

57. Hotel Whispering Pines, Village Kalapul

58. Sky Pie Guest House, Bhagsu

Most of the private hotels and a few government run hotels are located in the upper reaches of Dharamshala and locations are usually chosen to offer a grand Dhauladhar view or valley view from the hotel.

Climate, Altitude and best time to visit Dharamshala

The altitude of Dharamshala is between 4000 and 5000 feet with its famous suburb McLeodGanj lying at about 6500 feet. Because of proximity of snowline temperature falls below zero degree C during winter but during June temperature rises as high as 38 degrees C. During winter it snows and heavy woolens and jackets for protection from wind are needed. Rains are heavy here and this region records reportedly the second highest rainfall in India. With such variation in weather conditions and proximity of snow peaks, Dharamshala is a specially endowed hill-station in the Himalayas to visit.

This is a kind of all-season hill station with snowy winter from December to February for snow lovers, comfortable with flowers blooming from March to June for most tourists, heavy rains in the hills during July and August for the romantic and fresh green valley with temperature dipping for trekking, paragliding and other sightseeing during September to November. Predictably, March to June is the tourist season not only for Dharamshala but for most hill-stations in Indian Himalayas and so is the most crowded period of the year.

To me highlight of March to June would be the blooming flowers but I would miss the heavily snow-clad mountains so near in winter and also the freshly washed air and sparkling green of the forests of post-rains pre-winter period. Though heavy rains in such environment might feel romantic for a few days, but you would miss most other attractions of the place as also moving amongst the hills as road condition would be unpredictable.

What to see and do at Dharamshala

Outsiders visit Dharamshala for tourism and for work. But even if a person had come for work he may find some time to go around and relax. Dharamshala has markets for shopping, temples for religious minded, Tibetan Center as a special attraction for all, adjoining attractive scenic spots, comfortable trekking routes, adventure sports such as paragliding and other natural attractions. If you go for an outing or work, you would have something for you in and around the city to give you pleasure.

Places of tourist interest at Dharamshala

Dhauladhar: In suitable weather, preferably between March and June, one could undertake a daylong trek to Dhauladhar snow point from Dharamshala.

Triund: This is a hill point about 9 kms from McLeodGanj and is called the Jewel of Dharamshala because of its great view. It is one day’s trek from McLeodGanj through very scenic route.

McLeodGanj: This suburb of Dharamshala is about 5 kms from Dharamshala and is situated in the upper reaches of the Dhauladhar spur. Its altitude being higher the British preferred this place for stay. Old constructions still exist here. The scenic beauty from here is also excellent. But the most important factor making McLeodGanj an international tourist destination is the 14^th Dalai Lama who moved Tibet in exile administration from Mussorie to this place and subsequently influx of Tibetan refugees and Tibetan language students made McLeodGanj the Little Lhasa.

Kangra art museum: This is in Kotwali Bazar and an important tourist attraction. Here rare artifacts dating back to 5th century are displayed along with Kangra’s famous miniature paintings and sculpture.

Kunal Pathri: It is a 3 km walk from Dharamshala to a temple through picturesque tea gardens.

Cricket stadium: The International cricket stadium is beautifully positioned with a grand view of the Dhauladhar.

Dal Lake: This lake is about 11 kms from Dharamshala and surrounded by Deodars, is a beautiful scenic spot popular for picnickers.

Bhagsunath: This is an ancient temple with nearby fresh springs and famous slate quarries. This place is only 11 kms away from Dharamshala and a favorite picnic spot.

Chinmaya Tapovan: is an ashram complex established by late Swami Chinmayananda. It is 10 km from Dharamshala on the banks of the rivulet Bindusaras.

Temples: The old temples of Jwalamukhi, Chamunda Devi and Brijeshwari Devi are close to Dharamshala.

Nurpur: 66 kms away are the old fort of Nurpur and the famous temple of Brijraj.

Bir and Billing: Bir has Buddhist monasteries and fine Tibetan handicrafts. Billing is 14 km from Bir at a higher altitude. Billing is the take-off site and Bir is the landing site for paragliders. Bir has an arena of 200 km for high altitude and cross country paraglider flying, and is considered one of the best in the world for paragliding. Bir and Billing offer spectacular scenic beauty.

Local People

The local people are accommodative and helpful. Generally the city of Dharamshala is easygoing, though due to modernization, typed characteristics are creeping in.

Activities

Trekking: Apart from 1 day’s snow line trekking to Dhauladhar, there are other trekking routes. One can trek to McLeodGanj, Chamba, Bharmour, Indrahara and Kareri Lake among others.

Rock climbing: During May June, rock climbing can be done in Dhauladhar.

Paragliding: Dharamshala is famous for paragliding and the Bir Billing paragliding locations earned world fame for this adventure sport.

Walking & sightseeing: Most tourists won’t undertake though the adventure sports and rather enjoy the scenic beauty while walking on the mountain roads or occupy themselves with sightseeing.

Nearby places

Kangra, Chamba, Dalhousie, Bharmour, Karera lake are all nearby places with tourist attractions. Some of these are popular and some not so much, but all are accessible easily by car, or on foot.

Ideal for

Summer holiday visits, family visits, adventure sports, winter sports, or plain relaxing away from the madding crowds. There are times and places in Dharamshala for tourists of all inclinations including honeymoon couples of course.

Parting words

When you approach Dharamshala by road, a little before entering the city you would be struck by the breathtaking view of Dhauladhar over the tall Deodars and soon you would notice on the right first signs of Dharamshala on low hillsides.

Dharamshala shows up

Within a short time you would be traveling along city roads lined up by multistoried buildings and well-stocked shops. That is Kotwali Bazar at lower Dharamshala. Most of the offices are located in this area and the major bus terminus is also here only. But this is the central Dharamshala so to say. As you move nearer to the Dhauladhar along a rising and turning road you would start to feel less crowded with space around opening up and majestic Dhauladhar coming nearer enchanting you.

Wherever you decide to stay, you would be able to see Dhauladhar and within ten to fifteen kms you would reach the suburbs peaceful amidst pristine nature. The nearness of the snow line, massive snow peaks and places to stay and see at various altitudes nearby along with its unique all-season climate make Dharamshala a more than one visit destination.

Links

1. Himachal Pradesh govt. page on Dharamshala tourism: http://himachaltourism.gov.in/post/dharamshala.aspx

2. Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development Corporation: http://www.hptdc.nic.in/cir0302.htm

3. Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dharamsala

4. Wiki travel guide: http://wikitravel.org/en/Dharamsala

5. On hill resorts of India: http://www.hillresortsinindia.com/dharamsala.html

6. On Dharamshala hotels: http://www.dharamshalahotels.iwax.com/

7. On Dharamshala: http://www.dharamshalahimachalpradesh.com/

Workday at Dharamshala—the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 11

2014-04-27T13:22:00.000-07:00

A day at Dharamshala—beautiful Himachal

It was not a planned trip. My friend announced the evening before, “Tomorrow I have to visit Dharamshala. Would you like to come? We’d be back by evening.” No question of not agreeing. As usual start from Jammu was comfortably in the morning at about eight thirty. With three of us, the small red car rolled again.

I came to understand that my friend’s house under the shadows of Dhauladhar being nearly complete this would be a site inspection visit. A few things he needed to take care of—naturally—building a new house is not a small matter. Regular attention needed and it was only about 200 kms away along mostly fast road. A quick occasional visit was in order.

The road went through Pathankot. Nothing much to see—we had already traveled this way. The rise to the hills was gradual with no steep rides. Only at the last stretch I had to sit up suddenly with snow peaks showing on the right. “That is the Dhauladhar range,” informed my friend, “We would move nearer.”

Dhauladhar Himalayan range

I didn’t expect the elevation of the snow range to be so high. “It seems to be very near,” I expressed my surprise. “Yes it is quite near. Though altitude of Dharamshala is not high, pegged at about 5000 feet, it snows during winter here. If you come to visit us next year winter you would see snow.” Already he had offered me anytime room in his house. If everything went well, the house would be completed by another one year.

Though Dhauladhar range looked impressive, I couldn’t appreciate the scene—it was green but not green enough. I recognized the flaw—only low shrubs around—no tall trees.

We moved again. A little ahead my disappointment vanished as the road stretched ahead between green hillsides and snow peaks peeped over the trees. Dark clouds moved overhead. Rains might come.

Snow peaks peeping over the trees

“City is near now,” told my friend. It was a hint that the natural view would be no more. I wanted to get the maximum that I could get from this stretch. We stopped the car shortly at a vantage point.

Gorgeous Dhauladhar

This was the last green topped snow view and quickly the road turned smoothly into lower Dharamshala town. Nice clean roads—absently I noted—my mind was still on the scene we left behind.

“Dharamshala is expanding and has many of the large city facilities now,” my friend said. I could see but not quite attach my mind. I didn’t expect a city, I guess.

In a short while he rode up, turned and stopped, “Here is my palace,” he announced. We got down, looked around. No multitude of multistoried buildings jostling each other. All single storied houses in well separated plots with a cultivated stretch of land on one side and Dhauladhar on the other. Quite open all around. “You have chosen your spot well,” I complimented my friend, “Not easily this area will get crowded.” I knew too well how all empty spaces that we see get filled up gradually with time and progress.

My friend proudly showed each of the attractions of his house. It was certainly an achievement. I gave vent to my thoughts, “It’s great. I myself couldn’t have done it at all.” He looked visibly happy. “Only a few finishing touches are left. I expect it to over by early next year latest. Next year winter or summer you can come,” He looked at me smiling. Yes, I told myself, it is a grand offer. Away from the concrete jungle of Kolkata, below Dhauladhar—I could imagine myself walking leisurely towards Dhauladhar.

While Tukai went up to the roof to have a completely open view and my friend talked to his work people I was attracted away towards the cultivated stretch of land away from the cluster of houses. I walked quite far. From here I could hide the houses and Dhauladhar looked more appealing.

An away view of Dhauladhar

In time we rejoined at the rooftop of his house while my friend pointed out the various attractions of Dharamshala. The cute International Cricket Stadium far to the right was a point of pride for every Dharamshalaite. Later when I watched an important IPL match going on in that stadium it reminded me of us standing together on the open rooftop and my friend pointing towards the cute stadium.

His work nearly finished, as also our time. I took a short stroll towards Dhauladhar. One more hillside and then the snow face rose. It seemed so near. I looked closer.

Gigantic Dhauladhar rises

The gigantic snow covered mountainside rose steeply with beautiful cute buildings dotting the green vale on the foreground. I couldn’t comprehend how those people can live so near to that massive snow cliff.

Tranquillity in the Darjeeling Himalayas - Bara Mangwa - Part 2

2014-04-23T02:41:00.000-07:00

An idyllic hill nest - Stay at Bara Mangwa

Have you ever seen a kingfisher’s nesting burrow on a sloping river bank? The main cottage of the Bara Mangwa farmhouse sometimes gave us that feeling. Of course, it was not much different than most other pretty houses in the hills, but the wide open view, the mountain ranges that surrounded it, the river below, a forest in the backyard, and a group of friendly people who made us part of their family added character to the place. Sometimes right things in the right place at the right time play their magic.

The main cottage of Bara Mangwa Farmhouse

Many a times we stood on the wide balcony of the cottage and looked far away to our left—towards North. On that side the folds of the great Himalayas were clearly visible. The wave of hills rose all the way up to the 4300 meter high mountain pass of Nathu La, 150 kilometers away and hidden in those foggy days. On a clear day, one can see this snow covered gateway to Tibet, we were told.

The Northern Hills - Nathu La pass far ahead, now hidden

To our right just beyond the southern hills lay the great Gangetic plains. That was roughly the direction where we had come from. On the day we arrived, nature was just lifting a veil of rain clouds from these hills. It was a wonderful sight to behold—a fitting welcome for the city folks like us.

The Sourthern hills

The hills of Kalimpong were directly in front towards East across the river Teesta. We could clearly see the settlements of small towns and hamlets dotted here and there on the forest covered slopes with thin ribbons of winding roads connecting them. Two waterfalls, almost dry in those March days trickled down—their thin streams dancing along the steep slopes towards the river below.

Waterfalls on the opposite hills

The green waters of river Teesta flowed idly between the hills of Kalimpong and the hills this side—a wan calm river Teesta—far from its roaring raging monsoon glory. An hour’s walk down a foot track from the cottage would have taken us to its rocky banks. Climbing up the steep path of course would have been not that easy.

Calm wan flows the Teesta

Behind and below us were the slopes of the Bara Mangwa hills where we nestled. Its lower slopes dominated by terrace farms and the higher reaches by forest cover. Down there somewhere was the small town of Teesta Bazar. The estate of the farmhouse also boasted of orange orchards. During winter one could walk down and enjoy the sight of the trees laden with juicy citrus.

Terrace farming at the lower slopes

We had stayed in Bara Mangwa for two and a half days. In most mornings the brightening sky of dawn would wake us up much earlier than the time sun came into view—while we were in the shadows of the hill in front. Bird songs of all kinds filled the chill morning air. Smokes from kitchen rose from distant houses as hill folks woke up to another Himalayan day. On some days the orange sun would peep out from behind the Kalimpong hills just for a few minutes to cast a warm glow on the sleepy village before hurrying under the cover of the clouds again.

Quick glimpse of the rising sun before it went under the clouds

A stroll around the farmhouse along the hilly path was a real treat. The trees around were not too dense. We could see the river below playing a game of hide and seek among the bush and bends. The gentle ups and downs of the narrow trail gave a hint of adventure. But at the same time it was not too difficult to negotiate for somebody with less experience of walking in the hills. Especially the kids loved the challenges that the trails had to offer. Whenever we had time in our hands during our stay there, we would go out for a short field trip and return back with a rich experience.

One of the trails

On the southern trail there were some interesting rock faces. A few of these are used by a local expert to give lessons in rock climbing. There was one particular rock shelter which, in our mind, could have been easily favored by any leopard as its den. Leopards do roam around in this part of the land. Inquisitively we asked the farmhouse staff about these big cats—to get an hint if any were around, you know, just in case. We were told that some were spotted in the outer reaches of the farm, but none had been seen near the farmhouse. There had been no known incidents of any encounter between humans and leopards that proved to be unfortunate for either of the two. That way the place was quite safe—we were assured. We came to know that the only wild fauna that really bothered the local people were the porcupines, jackals and deer. They sometimes come up from the forest and rummage the organic gardens that the farmers grow with so much care.

With that assurance we continued to enjoy our excursion all around. While alone in the woods however, we always used to keep our senses alert for anything odd through some deeply buried survival instinct perhaps. Cautiously we explored the rock faces and soon started giving names to the natural landmarks. It was easier to refer to them later that way. The notable amongst them was the one which we unanimously called the “father and son” rock.

"Father and Son" rock

Everywhere, the forest was changing colors welcoming the summer and the rains beyond. In some parts of the forest, long shoots of bamboo had proclaimed their domination. Luxurious undergrowth of ferns gracefully decorated the floor below.

Diversity of forest flora

For the lovers of all things small and beautiful the forest offered plenty to admire. Butterflies and moths would float in the cool mountain wind on their delicate wings. Tiny bees danced around gleefully and drank nectar from bright wild flowers.

Bee on its flower

For a young mantis though, getting food was a little less easy, as we found out. No bigger than a penny, but standing tall with the pride of the proudest Samurai warrior, this small insect was keeping a sharp eye on every little ant and bug that passed by it. Occasionally it would sway gracefully from side to side. And then suddenly with a swift swish its long arms, it would try to grab one of its preys. Much to the disappointment of the mantis and also us, but of course to the great relief of the fortunate ants, he could not succeed even once. We finally wished our young and hungry mantis luck and moved along. It was late noon, and for us lunch was ready at the farmhouse. So many things we take for granted, we pondered. It must be a really hard life to hunt for uncertain food with hunger in one’s belly.

Micro-world of praying mantis

The dining area of the farmhouse was very nice. It was a few steps above the living area, attached to the kitchen on one side and semi-covered on the other three. From there we had enjoyed the wonderful warm home cooked meals from the farmhouse while marvelling at the sight of, say, a light rain drenching a colorful forest with the hint of a rainbow in front.

These forests were also blessed with excellent bird life. We would almost always hear flutter of wings in the bush as we walked passed them. During one of our walks, we had sat once under a shade for some rest while savoring the view of the river below. After some time, a white cheeked bulbul glided by and perched on a branch nearby.

White-cheeked Bulbul

As we looked around, we realized that other birds too had accepted our presence as a part of the landscape and had started going about their business as if we were not there. Not far away, a great barbet sat atop a tree displaying its splendid colorful back and broad yellow bill. A movement in a bush below attracted our attention. The shy green-billed malkoha, with its red eye-band, waited there just long enough to reward us with a good snap on my camera. I had remembered to keep my camera ready. In the morning I missed taking a shot of a crimson throated sunbird just outside my window and had learned from my mistake.

Green-billed Malkoha

Things like a woven basket lying beside the path would remind us of civilization. Hung on their back and supported by a thick belt running across their forehead or shoulder, the locals use these baskets to carry all kinds of load in these hilly tracks, from firewood to young kids at times. This iconic mode of carrying displays both handiwork and strength. While returning back, one farmhouse staff had effortlessly carried our two suitcases and a backpack in one of these baskets along the winding tracks to our vehicle.

The basket

Scattered on the hill slopes we would sometimes come cross small huts and cottages, brightly painted. In front of them, colorful Buddhist prayer flags with sacred writings fluttered in the pure breeze. It is believed that wind spreads the message of peace, compassion, strength and wisdom to everybody around when a prayer flag flutters. The flags’ blue, white, red, green, and yellow colors represent space, air, fire, water and earth in that order.

Cottage with Buddhist prayer flags

One more attraction for especially the kids was the various farm animals that shared these hill slopes with their masters. There was a cock with his harem of hens and their chicks. Then there were a few goats who loved to be petted, except for billy, the ram with big horns and a much bigger attitude.

The ram with an attitude

But special mention needs to be go to two of the cows who looked like sisters and rested under a shed all day and night. Every time we passed them they mooed so loudly to warn their master, that it put even the guard dog to shame. We tried to avoid them as much as we could, more out of embarrassment than anything else. One night however, we had to return back on the same trail after dark and with the inadequate beam from our flash lights we were a bit lost. Just when we were debating which way to proceed—the familiar deep mooing of the two sisters broke the silence of the night. The cows had obviously sensed our presence from far. What an assurance it was in that darkness. With the same sincere thankfulness of the crews of a ship saved by a trusted beacon, we silently thanked our bovine friends as we passed their shed and onto the right path. Goodness can be so relative and contextual.

The two cows that stood watch

The nights were of equal enjoyment at Bara Mangwa. The shining dots of lights from the settlements hidden in the dark forest of the Kalimpong hills in front matched the stars twinkling through the light cloud cover in the heavens above. The thin streaks of headlights from the traffic on the winding roads at the distant slope made us aware of human civilization. They would brighten for a moment at the turns facing us and then disappear behind the bush and forest. We would sit on the balcony for hours and enjoy the view.

Kalimpong hills - at night

On our last night at Bara Mangwa, we noticed small orange flames in the woods far away. A few in the Kalimpong hills, a few more in the hills on our side of the slope, near where the river was. As the night progressed, so did the fires. Cries of jungle fowls could be heard from those directions. It was as if they were abandoning their nests in despair unable to bear the raging flames. The fire in the forest could be a planned one or also otherwise, explained our host. Sometimes controlled fires are lit in the forest apparently to clear the undergrowth and ensure a better growth of plants. But sometimes there were accidental fires too—mainly man-made. These fires can stay dormant in small pockets of shrubbery, burning slowly for days and then suddenly erupting into a serious blaze when the weather turns dry or windy. None was sure what kind of fire it was that night. Those were far away from us to be of any possible harm to us, but as we looked through our field glasses, with the shrill cries of the pea fowls in the darkness all around, the blaze looked eerie and awe inspiring. Tall trees stood silhouetted against a glowing orange backdrop and swayed in the scorching updraft created by the raging flames.

Fire in the forest

To our hosts this appeared to be not an unusual event and none of them paid any special attention. They were busy preparing a camp fire for us.

Around the camp fire

The night was cold. The small circle of warmth around the campfire kept us comfortable as we sipped hot coffee. A few kilometers away a similar fire was destroying the homes of the birds who became our friends this morning. We prayed to god to keep their young ones safe.

Panorama of Bara Mangwa Farmhouse

Travel guide for Khajjiar - the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 10

2014-04-20T08:55:00.001-07:00

How to reach, what to see, where to stay and local specialties, Khajjiar—beautiful Himachal

Location & Description

Khajjiar is under Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh in the western Himalayas. It is about 23 kms from Chamba in the west and about 22 kms from Dalhousie in the East. Both Chamba and Dalhousie being nearby, day tourists from these two larger towns often frequent the Khajjiar glade returning back in the evening.

We approached Khajjiar from Dalhousie which is the usual route to Khajjiar. For tourists coming from outside Himachal, the main approach point would be Pathankot which is a large railway junction with most of the important trains having halts there.

How to reach

Pathankot to Khajjiar by road

Two ways you can reach Khajjiar from Pathankot, both near about 100 kms drive. The first is to take Pathankot Mandi road through Nurpur, leaving the main road to Mandi before Chowari Khas and after Nurpur. The road to Mandi goes right, you should continue straight. From this backdoor entry so to say, you would reach Khajjiar from the south-east by continuing straight, crossing first Chowari Khas and then Jyot pass. This road is less frequented, but you would have the high mountains and snow range longer with you on this route. On our return journey we took this road.

The usual route is to take SH-33 and through Banikhet and Dalhousie you reach Khajjiar from north-west direction. The twenty odd kms from Khajjiar to Dalhousie is beautiful but from Dalhousie to Pathankot you would go down to the plains quicker. On the positive side, the quality of this road is better.

Khajjiar from other important cities in North India by road

New Delhi to Khajjiar

From New Delhi to Khajjiar by road the distance is about 580 kms and you have to pass through Pathankot. New Delhi to Pathankot is mostly national highway route, either NH-1A or NH-71.

Chandigarh to Khajjiar

You may take either NH-1A or SH-25, both cases distance would be about 320 kms. On the first route you go longer and through Pathankot while on the second route you bypass Pathankot on the last stretch.

Jammu to Khajjiar

From Jammu to Pathankot it would be NH-1A, rest you know—total distance would be about 210 kms.

Manali to Khajjiar

Shortest route is by NH-21 through Naggar, Kullu and at Mandi you take Mandi Pathankot road. Rest you know. Distance is upwards 360 kms.

Dharamsala to Khajjiar

Dharamsala is comparatively nearer, about 130 kms from Khajjiar taking Shahpur Chowari road.

Amritsar to Khajjiar

Amritsar and Jammu are nearly at similar distances of about 200 km by road from Khajjiar. To come from Amritsar you need to take first NH-15 and then from Pathankot take NH-1A as before.

To Khajjiar by Rail

The nearest railway station is Pathankot. It is a large railway junction and is connected to most of the major cities in India. You may come straight to Pathankot and get down there. Pathankot is a busy city. You would get cars for hire from Pathankot. State transport buses should also be available from Pathankot. But it is better to have confirmed arrangements beforehand—tourists to Khajjiar may not be many—it is practically a hidden treasure.

To Khajjiar by Air

The nearest airport is Gaggal in Dharamsala. Apparently, as of now there is only one daily flight from Delhi to Dharamsala in the morning and it is a smaller aircraft. From Dharamsala by road you would have to reach Khajjiar taking a hired car.

Dharamsala airport being a small one with few flights, you might decide to come by air to either Jammu or Amritsar, both having more flights. On the flip side you would then have to cover about 100 km more by road.

Great, now as you have reached Khajjiar you might need to stay for the night and of course need to eat something.

Where to stay & where to eat— hotels and restaurants

If you are a day-traveler

If you had come for a day trip from Dalhousie, Chamba or Dharamsala you won’t need a hotel to stay—you would just roam around, touch the tourist attractions and go back. For a quick and modest lunch the only option for you would be the restaurant at our Khajjiar lake ground downtown.

The downtown restaurants

Otherwise you may have to try your luck in the nearest Hotel Devdar of Himachal Tourism at the entrance corner. Other hotels are at a little distance away from the ground but have their own restaurants.

If you decide to stay—Hotels and Rest houses

There are a number of good hotels spread around the Khajjiar lake ground in addition to the rest houses managed by the Forests department and PWD department. The rest houses are located just outside the ground within the tree-line. We had stayed in one of them. Arrangement is modest and food has to be brought from the downtown restaurants.

The corner rest house still holds some mystery in my mind. If you are curious and bold enough, you might find a way in there for a night and perhaps clear up my doubts. Most of these rest houses were built during the British rule.

Corner Cottage at Khajjiar glade

Hotels in Khajjiar

There are a number of hotels now in Khajjiar. It seems the place is gradually becoming more popular. Himachal Tourist Development Corporation runs its own Hotel Devdar just at the corner entrance of the Khajjiar ground. In addition it runs a few cottages also. You may like to refer to them directly for further information.

Himachal Tourist Development Corporation

Website: hptdc.nic.in

Hotel: THE DEVDAR

“On a hill, at the edge of a meadow, Hotel Devdar is sheltered by pines and spruce. The hotel offers a panoramic view of the meadow and surrounding forest. Its peaceful ambience is ideal for those who seek solitude.”

Address: The Devdar, Khajjiar, H.P. – 176314; Tel: (01899) -236333, 9418002306
E-mail: khajjiar@hptdc.in

Private hotels

1. Hotel MiniSwiss is the premium hotel in Khajjiar. It has its own web presence: http://hotelminiswiss.in/. It is rated as a 3 star hotel and is located in its own secluded area with dense forest at the back. It is one of the older hotels.

2. Hotel Royal Residency is also a 3 star hotel located on the Khajjiar – Chamba Road. It is an antiquated stone structure with modern amenities. It is one of the older hotels.

3. Hotel Ashiana Regency is a 3 star hotel located away from the lake and crowds.

4. Shining Star Resort is a 3 star hotel situated amidst the forest and an apple orchard. It is one of the older hotels.

5. Hotel Topaz is a 3 star hotel in Khajjiar. Possibly it is relatively new hotel.

6. Hotel Hritik Palace is a budget hotel situated in the forests. This is one of the older hotels in Khajjiar.

7. Hotel Oak Valley is a 2 star budget hotel in Khajjiar and possibly a newer one.

8. Deodar Manor has modern facilities.

Except Miniswiss none of the other hotels seemed to run their own website, but the links given at the end of this write would give you a fair amount of information. All information are though indicative and you need to check.

Climate, Altitude and best time to visit Khajjiar

The altitude of Khajjiar is around 6500 feet—it is slightly below Dalhousie but sufficiently high to get snowfall during winter but not so high that you feel real cold and chilly.

Officially the best season is April to October. I would like to modify it to March to October. Not many places have that long season. When it rains in Khajjiar, wind blows through the dense trees and temperature falls. I would say rainy season also should be specially beautiful here. And in winter it becomes chilly, temperature hovers around zero and some days it snows. That would also be attractive to many. You would need heavy woolens during winter. Summer is pleasant, though day temperature during peak summer may go as high as 30 degrees C. Nights or shades in summer again would be cool. In summer you would need light woolens. Because of the chance of wind, if you wear a light jacket it should make you more comfortable.

What to see and do at Khajjiar

We will begin with a statement that added apparent glory to Khajjiar way back in the early nineties.

“On 07-07-1992, Mr. Willy T. Blazer, Vice Counselor and Head of Chancery of Switzerland in India, brought Khajjiar on the world tourism map by christening it ‘Mini Switzerland.’ He also put a sign board of a yellow Swiss hiking footpath showing Khajjiar's distance from the Swiss capital Berne-6,194-kms. Khajjiar is among the 160 locations in the world that bear topographical resemblance with Switzerland. The Counselor also took from Khajjiar a stone, which will form part of a stone collage around the Swiss Parliament to remind the visitors of Khajjiar as Mini Switzerland of India.”

On the other hand, the people from Himachal and adjoining Jammu and Kashmir fondly call it “Gulmarg of Himachal”, Gulmarg being one of the most picturesque areas of Kashmir vale which itself we call “Heaven on Earth”.

If I apply reason and use my own first-hand experience, I would say, Khajjiar is something totally unexpected, extraordinarily beautiful and has a combination of elements that overwhelm practically any person from any part of the world who can appreciate beauty of nature. That lies behind the tendency to term Khajjiar as one’s own.

Places of tourist interest at Khajjiar

Khajjiar glade: Vast Khajjiar glade with the scared lake at its center is the prime place where you would spend most of your time. The lake is fed by thin streams and seemed to me dying. There has been occasional boating arrangement conducted by the forest department.

Khajjiar lake: The lake has its separate sacred identity and is tied up with nearby Khajji Nag temple. Apart from its sacredness, the lake adds to the charm of the sylvan glade in its own way.

Surrounding Kalatop forest: The tall forest around the glade is very old and dense with majestic trees guarding the glade. Multitudes of birds make their natural home in this forest though you might find them difficult to spot.

The forest is a part of Kalatop forest that is a wildlife sanctuary and in itself a tourist attraction. Kalatop forest has its own specially located forest bungalow that you may get reserved through DFO, Chamba. You might like to do a 30 km soft trek from Dalhousie to Kalatop sanctuary through the woods.

Pancha Pandava tree: Pancha Pandava tree with six shoots over a single trunk is a novelty and local myth has attached it with the five Pandavas of Mahabharata. This kind of trees is a specialty in this area and there are others like it in the adjoining forests.

Khajji Naga temple: Coming out of the glade you need to visit one of the most important places of attraction, that is, the 12th century built Khajji Naga temple. Inside the temple you would find full length figures of Pancha Pandava, Kauravas and inner sanctum made of wood. It is one of the most sacred temples in Himachal Pradesh and the place takes its name from Khajji Naga serpent god. Pilgrims make regular visits to this temple.

Snow range: From the Khajji Naga temple itself you would get the view of faraway Pir Panjal snow range. It looks fine but a bit raw through the high deodars and pines. It is also said, on a clear day you might get a view of Mount Kailash, a great snow peak of outer Himalayas at an altitude of 22000 feet from sea level.

Golf course: There used to be a nine-hole golf course in Khajjiar, but it seems it is not very actively used. If I go to Khajjiar next time I would like to explore this golf course and of course the mystery of the corner cottage.

Local People

The local people are gentle with smiling faces, helpful and non-interfering in nature. There are villages around Khajjiar glade. The villagers raise sheep and cattle and engage in terrace cultivation where suitable. Many of them are involved in carrying out varieties of activities for the tourists.

Activities

Zorbing: The large rolling semitransparent balls provide a unique attraction for the tourists. It must be special fun to some but I didn’t have the strong heart to indulge in this kind of sport though I enjoyed the view of the giant balls resting on the soft grassy vale against the dark green backdrop of the deodar forest.

Paragliding: This is a particularly fascinating activity specially for young couples. The tourists are taken first at a nearby hilltop from where they jump into open space and hanging by the threads from the chute sail towards the grassy vale. The ground being large and the chute maneuverable, the adventurers always land safely. It is not only exciting for the gliders, the glide and landing are a visual treat from the ground.

Zorbing and paragliding

Horse riding: For the children and aged alike horse riding is fun. The ride is conducted around the vast ground and the accompanying person and well-trained horses ensure safe enjoyable ride.

Horse riding at Khajjiar glade

Walk around: Usually we forget the best activity and take it for granted. Walking leisurely around the ground through forest paths with children occasionally taking a break and taking a roll on the soft grassy turf should be delectable.

Camping: Some of the hotels provide camping facilities in the woods. If you so desire, you may like to stay outdoors.

Rock climbing: Under expert supervision rock climbing is done for groups and not individuals. This activity is not usual and is taken up on request.

Village visit: There are a number of picturesque villages with great view amidst the dense deodar and pine forests not far from the ground. A few of them are Khajjiar village, Ladi village and Rota village. Some of these are located near apple orchards with trees heavy with apples in season.

Trekking: Trekking is offered under supervision and permission. A few of the trekking routes are from Khajjiar to Chamba and to Lakkar Mandi. These are soft and pleasant treks through the woods and gently rising hills. You may also like a refreshing walk through the woods from Lakkar Mandi to Kalatop forest rest house.

Kalatop wildlife sanctuary: You might like to spend a day in the Kalatop forest rest house roaming around the adjoining woods with a grandstand view of the mountains and the glade below. Reservation is to be had from Divisional Forest Officer, Wildlife, Chamba.

Nearby places

Chamba, Dalhousie, Lakkar Mandi, Jyot pass, Bharmour, Kalatop sanctuary, Chamera lake are all nearby places with tourist attractions. Some of these are popular and some not so, but all are accessible easily by car, have their own attractions and can be combined in a trip to Khajjiar.

Ideal for

Honeymoon, summer holiday visits, family visits, winter sports, or plain relaxation away from the madding crowds.

My recommendation is not to combine too many places with Khajjiar. It has a very special taste, like say fine quality flavored tea. Mixing it with wrong elements might destroy the flavor.

Parting words

Khajjiar glade is beautiful in a cute way but still has a vast expanse. It is surrounded by majestic old tall deodar forests rising gradually up the rolling hills within which the vast glade is practically hidden like a pearl inside an oyster shell. If you venture out, faraway glorious Pir Panjal snow range would beckon.

To me Khajjiar has its own beautiful, if not a bit of primitive raw soul which is to my liking and it cannot be compared with any other place. If you like—come, stay for at least one night, roam around on foot, drive along the roads on both sides, be one with yourself and nature and finally take back something with you that will always remain valuable to you.

Links

1. Himachal Pradesh govt. page on Khajjiar tourism: http://himachaltourism.gov.in/post/khajjiar.aspx

2. Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development Corporation: http://www.hptdc.nic.in

3. Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khajjiar

4. On hill resorts of India: http://www.hillresortsinindia.com/khajjiar.html

5. On Khajjiar hotels: www.khajjiarhotels.com

6. On Khajjiar: http://www.khajjiarhimachalpradesh.com

Lunch at Jyot and on towards Jammu – the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 9

2014-04-17T15:43:00.000-07:00

Leaving Khajjiar in its serene slumber we reached Jammu

We didn’t really leave Khajjiar till we left Khajji Nag temple behind. The first sighting of Pir Panjal snow range created a pulse of excitement in both of us Tukai and me, no doubt about it. The excitement remained with us. We knew beforehand that snow range could be seen from Khajjiar in clear days. As our lake ground was walled off by tall trees, perhaps snow range sighting won’t have been possible from there at all. But now we were with the snow view. My friend assured us that it will remain with us till Jyot. That made us happy. Always on the lookout for a still better view, we had to make my friend stop the car time to time.

Though the elevation of the snow range was low and it was far away at the horizon, one always wished to bring the desired object nearer.

Inviting snow

The range didn't have very high peaks; on an average altitude of the peaks being 21000 feet. In Himalayan scale that is not respectably high at all. But the range had its strengths. It maintained kind of unbroken wall all along the northwest to southeast horizon.

Long jagged white capped wall

I had seen much more majestic snow views of Himalayan peaks elsewhere in the past. But here the lack of apparent grandeur of the snow range was compensated by the dark green rolling hills and the tall trees in the foreground. There was a trace of primitivity and wilderness in the environment that appealed to me. Practically no traffic on the road enhanced this feeling.

Lonely road engulfed in green

The empty road lay still like a tape. Rising from the ravine down below tall trees touched and enfolded it; all healthy deodars with dense foliage—near Khajjiar the trees retained health and radiated verdant green.

Verdant green

The road was a beauty. It was nearly deserted, rising and falling at steep gradients on occasions. While the small car banked, the green hillsides also rolled over—mile after mile, with us not talking at all—just drinking in the moving scene. It was pleasure for us, though not for my friend—driving was long and strenuous on this road.

Later I found the distance from Khajjiar to Jyot shown as 18 kms. Perhaps my friend had taken a different route for showing us his beautiful Himachal hills as long as possible, for, we were told, after Jyot it would be only downhill to the plains. It took us, including frequent halts, not less than three hours to reach Jyot.

All along the way, Pir Panjal range didn’t leave us. After a bend it would suddenly show itself through the trees, so beautiful!

Glaring white snow peaks through tall green trees

And like small children we repeatedly would try to capture its beauty and remain ever insatiated.

Gradually the trees thinned, wide patches showed up on the faces of the hills, and the ambiance turned drab and bare.

The brightly colored dresses of the village women walking from a village nearby made a stark contrast to the drab brown bare earth of the hills.

Himachali women on the way home

Perhaps they would go down the faintly visible zigzagging track to their village in the valley below. Sparse traffic go by this road. Perhaps one or two buses ply throughout the day picking up waiting passengers all along the way.

As I watched the sloping roof houses on the hillsides for some time, it occurred to me from what I had seen of these village houses—all looked very new and clean. These were not really like any other poorer village in our country.

At a point on the road while looking through the window to the valley on the left, I requested my friend to stop the car again. From right to left the hillsides were dotted with sprinklings of small hut-like houses all with apparently brand new shining roofs.

Hillside dotted with shining tin roofs

When I looked nearer, it looked not at all like a conventional village to me. The terraced fields were neatly laid in gentle steps. A steel colored tall power tower stood proud but incongruous amidst the greens. Most of the houses had shining new tin roofs—perhaps it snowed in these parts during winter and every year after winter they needed to repair the roofs.

A neat Himachal village

As I looked left I found all hillsides with such shining dots. This seemed to be a particularly favorable place and men had chosen their strips of ground to set up homes and cultivated terraced lands across the gently sloping fertile hillsides.

Villages spread all over the hillsides in the valley

What surprised me was the apparent sufficiency and affluence of the villages. I voiced the question to my friend. What he told me had been the most significant piece of information that I had absorbed during our whole trip. He told us with a satisfied smile, “All Himachal villages have three basic things—drinking water, electricity and road.”

I looked at the valley and expressed my wish, “It seems nice and peaceful. With the basic amenities available,” I paused, not to shock my friend all of a sudden, “Can I build a small house here and settle down after my retirement?” He looked at me with smile on his face and eyes, “No, you can’t do that. No outsider is allowed to purchase land in Himachal. But why would you build another house? I have nearly finished my own house just under the shadows of Dhauladhar in Dharamsala. I will keep a room permanently assigned for you to come any time you wish. That’s a standing offer.”

I knew him to be a serious person and it would certainly be a pleasure to stay with him in Dharamsala. I told him so. No doubt about it. But would I ever? I knew myself. There had rarely been any person with such high inertia around!

“We have nearly reached Jyot,” announced my friend. After a turn, a few buildings appeared by the side of the road—only a few, not many. Parking the car my friend went into a hotel in search of food. Our food preferences taken, we were free to roam around. Preparing the meal would take some time. My friend took up a seat inside the hotel—he must have become a bit tired by now.

Tukai went walking. I went up a flight of stairs towards the local viewpoint at the top of a rise.

View point at the top of a rise - Jyot

Jyot is a high point, all other places nearby looked to be below me. Pir Panjal view was clear, unobstructed by anything. Looking down I spotted Tukai coming back from a walk in the nearby woods.

Taking a walk in the woods

Nice place for a walk. No pollution, lots of trees, good open view on one side—what more would you desire!

Soon Tukai joined me at the top. It felt good to stand on top. Specially when you’re with one of your dear ones. Tukai posed for his photo with Pir Panjal as a backdrop. You certainly need such pictures when you are young.

Far ahead wisps of dirty clouds hovered above the glaring white snow crown of Pir Panjal. Nice contrast.

Wisps of dirty clouds gathering

Shadows fell over the white peaks. To me life of clouds would always remain a mystery—how they suddenly take birth and how do they vanish all of a sudden, specially in the mountains—I would never fathom!

“Come down. Food is ready,” my friend called from the hotel. I peered down. A small white car stood quietly. Still further down right across the road would be my friend standing at the open door of the hotel.

Jyot view

“Coming,” I shouted looking down towards the hotel. This had been the highest point on the route. It must be snowing here during winter, and the houses sprinkled all around the hill slopes must be Jyot itself, I thought. With a last look at the jagged white wall far ahead, I started on my way down.

Pir Panjal Himalayan range from Jyot

After a modest meal we decided to start for Jammu straightaway with no further delay. It was already quite late. Though the road would continuously go down from here, the distance to be covered was long. We would reach the plains near Pathankot; till then moving at a fast pace won’t be possible. And Pathankot would still be at least another eighty kms further ahead.

It was past midday. As we moved ahead and down, our interest in the surrounding scenic view waned; the hills became barer with ever thinning trees. It is always a mild surprise to me when I think of how time stretches when you have nothing interesting to focus your attention on. Boredom on the road may be unwelcome for the passengers, but it is always an enemy to the driver of the car. I felt my sympathy reaching out to my friend. He drove on silently.

Not long before we reached the plains, we had to face a sudden obstacle on the road. On this stretch the road was under repair with heavy machinery parked by the side of the road. A veritable flowing river of lambs and goats coming up the road engulfed us. The car couldn’t move an inch forward for some time.

River of lambs and goats

One man walked ahead and the other brought up the rear. We patiently waited till the tail of the herd could be seen. As we started to move slowly through the thinning herd, the solidly packed procession of lambs and goats passed us with calm faces.

Packed and disciplined procession

Looking at them I thought, if only I could become one of them with no worries for the future, totally depending on the two men in charge—the masters.

On the plains evening descended, and then night fell. The car streaked ahead through the night towards a small bubble of light, warmth, food and company—our home in Jammu.

Far behind up in the mountains, Khajjiar lay dreaming in the lap of its mother.

Escape to an idyllic getaway in the Darjeeling Himalayas - Bara Mangwa - Part 1

2014-04-13T09:12:00.000-07:00

Reaching Bara Mangwa

“… and this balcony gives nice view of Kalimpong on the other side with the river below,” mused my friend as we both examined an average sized image with a more than average appeal, searched out of Google on the computer screen. We were discussing his upcoming travel plan—and that’s how I first met Bara Mangwa. I decided at that moment itself that a visit to this place is a must.

Five months later, we found ourselves outside New Jalpaiguri, a.k.a NJP railway station in North Bengal at ten in the morning loading an assortment of baggage atop a fairly decent Sumo, the ten-seater work-horse of a vehicle, all excited and looking forward to the leisurely three days nestled in the hills opposite Kalimpong.

To introduce briefly, our team comprised of me, my wife, two school going sons and my cousin with his wife. Special mention should also go to Bikash—a lean, energetic and soft spoken 24 year old from the hills of Kalimpong who was assigned as our man at the steering wheel of the Sumo for the next few days. His respect towards his vehicle, its passengers and the treacherous winding roads we were to travel together made him our friend in no time. This was an excellent bonus.

As an icing on the cake, Bikash’s elegant spiked hairdo elevated him in an instant to the level of a hero in the eyes of my twelve year old. Many youths in this part of the country are quite trendy in their appearance and our guy in the driving seat was no exception. He also had an excellent collection of MP3 in a bright red pen drive that entertained us throughout our journey.

Bikash - our man at the steering wheel

Bara Mangwa is a hamlet in the lower reaches of Darjeeling Himalayas—about 5 kilometers uphill from Teesta Bazar—another small town at the western bank of the moody river Teesta. The journey from New Jalpaiguri to Teesta Bazar was not new to us and we always looked forward to it because of its special charm.

The road outside city limits soon transformed into a decently maintained two lane National Highway 31 cutting across tea gardens and Mahananda Wild Life Sanctuary. These forests though mostly replanted now and lacking the feel of real savage wilderness, always act as an appetiser for most visitors I know of, who have just embarked upon their journey to the hills from NJP. The wild scent of nature and the heavy clicks of the crickets often overcome the smell of vehicle fuel and the low rumble of the diesel engine giving a taste of pleasures to come.

National Highway 31 cutting through Mahananda Wild Life Sanctuary

The forest finally ended as the first waves of hills started. Then suddenly the river Teesta sprang into view. A petrol pump, a few small road-side eateries, a single track railway bridge painted in bright silver spanning the width of the river formed the gateway from where roughly the hill starts. It felt like the river came down to meet us here and like a guide would accompany us alongside up the mountains, lest we lose our way.

Crossing the railway track - bridge over River Teesta

The natural beauty of this part of the country never failed to marvel us. As always we stopped in between at one of the many bends from where one can enjoy the lazy turns of the river in the gorge below. Occasional white water rapids dotted the presently placid green surface of Teesta.

Meanders River Teesta

It was March. The river was calm and we could see the small figures of local laborers loading sand and rocks from patches on dry river bed onto a matchbox sized truck, safely parked alongside them. A white crane with a long neck was treading cautiously in the shallow pools in search of food. Its milk white plumage looked bright in the sunshine striking a brilliant contrast with the smooth water below. The split personality of the same Teesta, a raging beast when fuelled by the monsoon rain, can wipe out villages and bury big heavy construction vehicles so deep they would never to be found again. But that would be some months away.

Rocks and gravels being mined from the dry beds of River Teesta

It takes around two and half hours to reach Teesta Bazar from NJP. So en-route we had decided to go for a late breakfast at a fairly clean road side joint jutting out towards a small stream from the right flank of the road. A few other tourists were busy having generous helpings of early mid-day meal. They were obviously heading towards destinations further ahead, may be to Darjeeling or beyond and this food joint looked like one of the fairly popular pit-stops on this route.

We hit the road again and reached Teesta Bazar sometime late afternoon. The ambiance of this town was a bit disappointing with narrow roads finding its way through unclean locality and shanties of shops. A couple of vehicles of Teesta white river rafters were perhaps the only highlights around this place.

We veered off the main road from here and took a steep rugged narrow road to the left—away from the river. A signpost announcing “Bara Mangwa—5 KM” assured us that we were on the right track. Before we embarked on this trip, we were warned of two things by a well-wisher. First—this five kilometre stretch to be negotiated only by a four wheel drive. Second—the vehicle won’t go the full distance to the farm house at Bara Mangwa, where we had planned to stay, and we would have to cover the last short hilly stretch on foot with children and baggage and all. Bikash was confident however that if it did not rain, his vehicle, though not a four wheel drive, could overcome the first hurdle. And by now we had started trusting him.

Well, the five kilometre ride was quite uneventful if one excluded a few extremely steep uphill rises with a few of the sharpest hairpin bends I had ever seen. The dirt road was devoid of any tar surfaces in most places with occasional puddles of mud where the wheels spun frantically forwards while the vehicle slid backwards by a few feet. The passengers at the back seat cursed and clung to anything they could find to prevent jumping on each other’s laps. Most of the track was through dense vegetation with not a soul in sight. However, quite surprisingly we enjoyed it thoroughly with a general spirit of revelry and adventure. Perhaps it helped as our man in the driving seat with a spiked hairdo was as cool as a cucumber throughout the action filled ride, radiating the calm confidence of a man in control. Throughout this stretch all were smiling and laughing and taking jerky pictures of the tumbles we were in while ensuring that our mobile phones and purses were still in our pockets.

The car straining up the road to Bara Mangwa from Teesta Bazar

Two friendly and elderly ladies at a small road side tea-stall showed us the exact way to the farm house which we reached soon after. The car stopped. It would go no further. Now it was time to overcome the second hurdle—the final walk. The burden of this however was literally lifted from our shoulders by a couple of men from the farm house whom we found patiently waiting ready to carry our heavy baggage on their back. We followed them like a group of school kids out on a nature walk on the short winding trail with gentle ups and downs amidst a mosaic of wilderness and terrace farming of vegetables.

Walking through the terraced vegetable gardens of young beanstalks

It took only twenty minutes including stops to admire and photograph the odd butterfly, a chirping unfamiliar little bird, the curls of young fern leaves, a small waterfall and a cautious investigation of a road side burrow from where some petite unseen animal was flinging out earth in an apparent intention to keep its house clean. The polite porters patiently waited for us with smiling faces as we took our own sweet time in the cool bright sun.

Friendly helping hand looking back to ensure that his guests were keeping up

A little girl from around was watching us with wide open eyes as we were turning young. She was neatly dressed and had a yellow withering flower in her hand. She held it gently as if to make sure that it didn’t get hurt. I asked if I could take a photo of her. With the grace of a princess, she nodded very gently. So gently, that I thought for a moment that she didn’t hear me. As I waited she nodded again and stood there very still, almost posing for the camera with a candid stare. I clicked a photo of her and smiled back, thanking her. Like a wax doll springing into life, with a big grin she turned around with great excitement and danced up the path behind her to possibly where her home was—holding the yellow flower ever so gently all the way as far as I could see her before she disappeared around a bend.

Young girl with yellow flower

I did not see her again during our stay there. I did not try to find out either who she was. Some magical moments are better kept untouched.

We walked on for a few steps more. And then suddenly, after a final turn—there in front was the balcony, the same one that had drawn us to this place—much more beautiful in real than what I had pictured in my mind.

Panorama of Bara Mangwa Farmhouse

Out of Khajjiar, on the way back – the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 8

2014-04-08T13:19:00.000-07:00

It was morning and a last look at Khajjiar meadows —a spot of Kashmir in Himachal

Morning shone bright and sunny—only innocuous wisps of cloud in the sea blue sky, the dark wet night now behind us. My friend informed us that the day’s journey back to Jammu would be long and we would have to start early. With little time in hand I didn’t feel like going down to the vast gently undulating grassy meadow and confined myself to the strip of lawn in front of our rest house.

Rest house

We had already finished a light breakfast and packed our baggage. Being the youngest, Tukai carried the bulk of the luggage. Through the two tall trees our downtown, yet to be crowded by day tourists, looked deserted. Another lazy day starting at Khajjiar lake. Not for us though—we would have to go back to our busy city life. I felt a slight pang of uneasiness.

Uncrowded downtown

The vast Khajjiar ground with the lake at its center was nearly on its own. Two men reclined on the grass carpet facing the lake. Nothing moved to disturb the picture perfection. Even the unmoving lazing duo looked fine—their low-voiced occasional words quickly lost in fresh morning air.

Lazy lake at peace

While I was enjoying my last moments with the meadow, Tukai was busy getting the water bottles replenished for the day. It would be a long journey with not much of facilities on the way.

Replenishment for the long journey

Yesterday I took a small path behind this cottage that led to a flight of stairs reaching the main road. And my birds sang for me.

But today it is go-time. The half open old wrought-iron gate may not see me again. I stepped down through the gate with one look back to the cottage.

May not see me enter again

The walkway curved away from me on the left with a single bench nearby and the man reading his morning paper—as if it was his own private garden—what luxury!

Quiet morning at Khajjiar lake

I turned round towards the far corner. The cottage no more looked lonely—it was smiling in the morning sun. As if nothing had happened last night. But more than the cottage, when I looked at the wall of tall deodars closely, its grandeur took my breath away. Perhaps I could have stayed here for life—amongst these tall trees, reading my favorite book during leisurely mornings and walking alone on the vast grass carpet deep into the night.

Green grandeur

A sudden movement caught my eyes. The running couple melted away the last trace of lingering doubt in my mind. They must be coming from the corner cottage and it had no unpredictability any more—I felt reassured.

Catch me if you can

The car bumped along the grassy strip below the cottages and at the corner of the meadow negotiated a short steep stretch to reach the main road. As I knew from my exploration last evening, the road went straight first and then turned. The Khajjiar lake disappeared behind.

I liked this part of the scenery. The trees here as usual tall but they were not always able to reach road level—the hillside went down quite steeply.

In a short while my friend stopped the car and parked it by the side of the road. He pointed ahead, “That is the Khajji Naga temple. Would you like to see it?”

Khajji Naga temple

Tukai and I both became excited—our first real snow view in Khajjiar.

The way ahead was long—with Jammu more than 200 kms away, we decided not to spend much time with the 1000 year old sacred temple. The towering figure of Nagadeva, the serpent god with a sweet serene smile silently stood taller than the trees, the five Pandavas made of wood stood in their places in the temple, we moved ahead, but not for long.

I was in constant lookout for a good viewpoint from the moving car. In a few minutes my friend had to stop the car again. “I will take a little time here,” I told my friend apologetically. After all he had to do the arduous driving.

Far away the snow range at low elevation rose from the series of deep green rolling hills. The raw nature, specially the thick green cover gave me pleasure.

Far away snow range

Where unaided human eye can’t reach human artifact can. I looked closer through the lenses.

Closer view of Pir Panjal range

This is the Pir Panjal mountain range running from east-southeast to west-northwest across Himachal Pradesh. The highest peak in this lower Himalayan range is Indrasan (6221m). Further to the right should be Dhauladhar behind the bend.

Nowhere in between I could detect any sign of human civilization—it seemed to be all the way wilderness till the snow range.

Personally snow views unadorned by greenery I don’t like. Here I feasted my eyes on the scene. Though the snow range was very far, it shone like a diamond girdle on the green crown.

Before leaving I wanted to have a still closer look on the icy mountains. Yes, there they stand—raw majesty.

Raw majesty

Lengthening shadows on Khajjiar meadows – the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 7

2014-04-05T06:49:00.001-07:00

Leisurely afternoon at Khajjiar —a spot of Kashmir in Himachal

The Khajjiar ground reminded me of something familiar. Trudging towards the hotels it came to me—it was like a fairground; just like our small towns and villages where fairwallahs descend during the winter with their merry-go-rounds, occasional snake charmers, future-tellers, magicians and hordes of typical sellers of knick-knacks and transform an otherwise drab empty space overnight into a center of attraction for all people around with a pocket of color, noise and varied attractions.

The colorful inflatable contraption in front of us must have been quite attractive to children and the young. That’s what reminded me of a fairground.

An attraction for the young ones

But Khajjiar ground is no ordinary ground—it is by far one of the most beautiful grounds I had ever seen—its attractions lay not with the artificial attractions. A few of the specialties—the inflatable slide and the giant rolling balls looked not out of place in the midst of picture perfect nature all around. Most visitors relaxed on this natural stage—with only a few restless young tasting the novelties.

“Officially Khajjiar is called Mini-Switzerland,” my friend broke in, “It is recorded that long back, Governor of Switzerland on a visit o this place noted its similarity with Swiss natural scenes and labeled it as Mini-Switzerland. From then on the label has become official.” “Through the ages people have shown a tendency of naming every other thing all over the globe, be it places or people, after their favorite entity. Brand has little real value—context is all important,” I couldn’t but say, “Comparison is a common tendency, but pointless.”

Leaving behind Swiss hangover we made a brief inspection of the hotels where we could get decent food and settled on an open air lunch option. We were not very hungry and quickly finished a light lunch. My friend went for the caretaker whose office was nearby, and I and Tukai moved slowly onto the soft carpet of grass.

A splash of color caught our eyes—a group of women, in highly colorful ornamental dresses accompanied by a tall gentleman stood together apparently waiting for a photoshoot.

Gorgeous colors

The idea was a surprise to us. The man in business carried a trunk full of local ceremonial dresses that can be put on the normal clothing of women visitors changing them magically to colorful butterflies. As a proof of this pleasant transformation an instant group photo was taken and handed over to the happy ladies. We spotted this group just after the photoshoot. Approaching the group we found them to be a close-knit, modest and well-bred family and quickly became friends. It is a real pleasure to make friends with people in far off places while on the go.

Saying good bye to the family I looked at the opposite corner of the glade. Only a few hours ago our small red car entered through that place. Tomorrow again we will go out along that way.

Entry point to the ground

I found later the buildings to be a mix of hotels and government offices. The road that we would take tomorrow would continue to the right. We arrived from Dalhousie along the road from the left direction.

Business done, our man with dresses was packing his wares in his trunk; on the backdrop dense wall of trees looked dark—sun was behind them. Somewhere near the low building among the trees we would rest for the night.

Relaxing ambiance

Nearby on the slight rise lying left we spotted a very special tree. Trees are my favorites—always. This one made me joyous—what a tree!

Pancha Pandava and Draupadi

Distinctly identifiable six trunks went upwards enjoined together to a great height. Later I came to know the local name of this tree—predictably it is called Pancha Pandava—the five Pandavas from Mahabharata. And where Pandavas stand, Draupadi must be there—she is the sixth one. The original name of this country is still Bharat.

Moving up a little ahead we found my friend talking with another gentleman. That must be the office and the man must be the caretaker. The office didn’t look like an office at all. It must be having staying rooms with fire places to warm the rooms during snowing winter.

Rest house office

Lovely location—front open towards the grassy Khajjiar lake and tall trees at the back—nice. In no time my friend joined us, “I got the key.” We turned together towards the Khajjiar ground purposefully. In whatever time we had till sundown, we intended to cover as much of the ground as possible.

Slow and soothing

There was no hurry anywhere as far as eye could reach. This was no place for hurry. I found similar ambiance in Bhutan recently. When dense upright green trees cover tall mountains, white clouds float lazily overhead across the clear blue sky, nature and all in it tend to go slow and relax.

We went in—slowly meandered towards the lake at the center and beyond. Looking back from the middle of the ground, the hotel complex looked like downtown.

Center of activity

The area looked congested. It was but natural. An extended lunch period was still on. There, below the yellow orange striped canopy we took lunch.

“Look,” Tukai pointed to the floating glide excitedly.

“It’s your turn now.” Quickly I handed over the camera to him. He should be able to capture the landing. Twice I failed before. The paraglide not only moved in fast, but also veered sharply in its path.

Coming in to land

This time it was a young couple strapped on their seats and strongly holding on to the two portions from which the strings radiate upwards to the glider overhead—simple elegant construction. The glider moved fast, but Tukai was ready. He could finally get the landing well. “Well done,” I patted him.

Safe landing

Near the lake I experimented with the outer grey colored band around the bright green grass surrounding the lake. I was aware of the instability and planting my left foot firmly on hard ground gingerly placed my right foot on the grey patch. It gave way easily, so easily that I had to quickly withdraw my foot. “This part is very soft. You should avoid it,” warned my friend.

In front lay our honeymoon cottage at its lonely corner—a few visitors still around, but not for long; shadows already lengthening around it. As evening drew near, it would be left totally alone.

The honeymoon cottage getting lonelier

This was the back of the ground opposite to the well-populated areas. Not many people liked to venture this far out. They clustered near the parking stretch beyond which the forest paths went into the shades and vanished from view.

Forest paths leading out

The giant globes had been moved from their initial place near the corner cottage in the morning and were now resting. Perhaps their day’s job was over.

Resting globes

I looked close at the tall trees filling my view completely. Nothing else—only tall green trees. Pleasure.

Reaching the sky

The trees pulled me towards them. “I am going up on the road behind our cottage. Not for a long time though. I will be back soon.” I had to reassure my friends. My way separated. This I like most. Going alone. Nothing great in it— but you are now alone with the nature. No other human consciousness stands between.

Leaving the ground I took the short-cut using the stone steps and rose up to the road. Now with Khajjiar ground in front me behind the tall dense tree line, I stood alone.

A bird called from some distance—a clear call for its mate. I am no expert but still I could perceive. And true to my perception, its mate also answered after a few seconds. The second call came from a point much nearer. I switched on my audio recorder. In fact, I came up here alone among the trees after hearing these bird calls from the ground only.

With very little traffic on the road, there was hardly any interference. I stood still and listened. Time to time the silence was broken by one of my birds, and then the other one. By and by other birds started calling. I was thoroughly enjoying the orchestra. After some time, wanting to be nearer, I slowly walked towards the caller near me.

Over the years I met many people whose intense interest was in watching and capturing the little birds with their long canon-like zoom lenses. Somehow I never had that interest. I liked the sound—the birds are so small and restless it is quite a job to capture them. Much easier is to listen to them and enjoy, and if chance permits, to record their calls.

It is not easy for you to spot a bird perched high up in dense tree foliage, but the bird nevertheless can see you. Jim Corbett time and again tells us about the warning calls with which the birds announce the arrival of a tiger or other danger. It happened in the same way. My bird saw me approaching and with a loud call went off. I couldn’t see it, but its calls ceased.

Satisfied, I started my way back to join my friends. I had taken my bird friends with me.

The shadows on the ground already covered most of the ground. I found, during my absence Tukai could spot a mountain dove searching for food on the grass carpet. It preferred the cool and the cover of the shadows.

Mountain dove

Later I could identify it to be an Oriental Turtle Dove courtesy Prashant Shrivastava in flickr.

We stood near the edge of the ground on the side of our cottage. A faint sound coming from the trees bordering the ground made me look up. The bright red and white shone through the dark green. The two horses led by their reigns trotted unhurriedly along the tree-lined path.

Horse and riders returning at day end

After the day’s ride, they were returning home, slowly. “Horse riding is another activity here that tourists love. There are many long trails in the forest on which you can ride on a horse for hours,” told my friend. No, I would rather walk, I thought to myself.

Tukai wanted the camera from me. He looked up towards the sky. The moon at dusk framed by the overhanging leaves of the pines.

The moon is up

The sun was not yet down, but most of the ground was in shadows by now. Many visitors had left, rest slowly moving towards their cars. Only a few, perhaps locals, were still on the shadow darkened grass.

Lingering sunrays at Khajiiar lake

Along the length now I looked from the back of the ground towards the front, the center of activity throughout the day.

Lengthening shadows on Khajjiar lake

Sprinkling of human figures now sparse dotted the view. By now most of the ground had been taken over by the shadows—the sun was going down on our left behind the tall tree line. People preferred the still existing patches of sunlight—that is human tendency. Usually we like to avoid darkness.

I turned my view towards the entry point that was sunny in the morning. Now it was in shadows.

Day end at Khajjiar

A few cars still were left parked. Some of these would be leaving soon. A few might yet remain through the night—some visitors might have decided to stay back.

Dusk at Khajjiar

It was dusk at Khajjiar, a day had ended, evening was about to drop its shroud. It was leaving time. Within an hour at most it will be dark and all the human figures would take shelter in their warm enclosures. Nature would again be left to itself.

Postscript: It rained and cold wind blew hard later in the evening. Our hotel friend somehow could reach us with packed food. Otherwise we would have had to go without food that night.

The wind howled through the tree fronds. It was different from the sunny slow day. I tried to feel the corner cottage standing alone shaded by the dark wet trees.