hip pressure cooking

Hip Super-Fast Pressure Cooker Lemon Marmalade and Hot Water Bath "Processing" (or not)

2012-02-08T01:05:00.000-08:00

A pressure cooker and mandolin work together to make a delicious marmalade in under an hour. If you find yourself with abundant fruit and not a lot of time - this fantastic sweet, tart and zesty recipe is for you!

Once you make the marmalade in your pressure cooker, you can stop there, and put it in your refrigerator in a pretty little jars that will last a few months. Or, if you have canning jars, you can "process" it - hermetically sealing the jars by boiling them for a short amount of time so that they can go in your pantry and last indefinitely.

How super-fast? This technique does not require you to soak, peel, de-pith, finely shred or filter the pulp. All you need to do is quickly slice the lemons using mandolin, remove the seeds as you find them, cut a stack of slices into 4 pieces, pressure cook to soften with a tad of water, and then add sugar and simmer for a few minutes.

Done!

I made this marmalade with lemons, but you could use any citrus. Adjust the sugar accordingly depending on the acidity of the fruit. Super-sweet oranges and mandarins will only need 1x the sugar while grapefruit, lemons and Seville oranges (known for their bitterness) will require twice. If you can't decide or want to make a low-sugar version, just sneak a taste after the sugar is melted and simmered and see if you like the results.

For a detailed description of the canning process for jams, jellies and pickles visit Canning 101 from Tigress in a Jam. If after this easy recipe you catch the preserving bug, I also highly recommend visiting the Food in Jars Blog.

Super-Fast Pressure Cooker Lemon Marmalade

Pressure Cooker	Accessories	Pr. Cook Time	Pr. Level	Open
5 L or larger	none	10 min.	High (2)	Natural

This recipe can be adjusted for the amount of lemons you have, since the sugar is decided on the weight of the lemon rinds and pulp. I have even made this recipe with just two lemons in my small 2.5L pressure pan pressure cooker!

For Marmalade:
2lbs. or 1K of Organic Lemons, well-washed with a scrubby sponge
About 4lbs or 2K sugar (see instructions)

Mandolin
Digital Scale
Thermometer (optional)

To Process:
Rack or Steamer Basket
3 Clean Kitchen Towels
6 8oz or 250 ml Jars, sterilized in boiling water or hot out of the dishwasher
6 New lids, quickly boiled or hot out of the dishwasher
Strong Tongs, or Jar Lifter
Canning Funnel, and/or Ladle
1 Tbsp. Vinegar (if you have hard water)

To make the Marmalade:

Slice with "thin" setting on mandolin, discard ends or slices that are all pith.
stack slices, removing seeds as you go (save them for later) and cut into four.

Put your pressure cooker on scale, hit "tar" or zero and then add thinly sliced lemon wedges and any juice that may have squirted out in the process. Write down the weight of the fruit (for me is was 786 grams).

Add the minimum amount of liquid your pressure cooker needs to reach pressure, about 1-2 cups, and close and lock the lid.

Turn the heat up to high and when the pressure cooker reaches pressure, turn it down and begin counting 10 minutes cooking time at HIGH pressure. When time is up, open the pressure cooker using the Natural Release method - move the cooker to a cold burner and don't do anything and wait for the pressure to come down naturally. For electric pressure cookers, up be sure to turn off the "keep warm" mode, if it automatically engages in your model.

Calculate how much sugar to add - typically an extra-bitter marmalade needs twice the sugar. That looks like ALOT of sugar if you've never made fruit preserves! So if you are concerned, try the same weight in sugar first, then taste a cooled sample on a teaspoon and see if you like it. For my marmalade I doubled the sugar (1500 grams).

Also, put all of the seeds in a tea ball or gauze packet.

When you open the pressure cooker the fruit pulp will already be warm, so pour all of the sugar in and stir. It should all melt within a minute or two. Then, add the tea ball containing the seeds. Now, turn the heat up and bring everything to a rolling boil for 5 minutes or, if you have a thermometer, you will want the mixture to reach 212F or 100C.

Now, using a ladle or canning funnel, distribute the contents evenly in your freshly dish-washed or sterilized jars.

To Process:

Carefully wipe the edges of the jars and screw on the lids until they are lightly closed (do not tighten). Quickly wash out the base of the pressure cooker, and add the rack or steamer basket (without trivet).

Place the jars so that they don't touch each other or the sides of the pressure cooker (I could only fit four, so I had to do two batches). Next, arrange the kitchen towels so that the jars do not move and clink around while boiling (I put them in an S around two jars in opposing directions).

Now, fill the pressure cooker with enough water to cover by an 1" or so. If you have hard mineral water that usually leaves spots on your glassware, add a tablespoon of vinegar in the water to keep your jars shiny and beautiful.

Set your pressure cooker to "no pressure" or "exhaust" position. If you have neither of those, like mine, just remove the valve, or weight, completely from the housing - as you would when cleaning it.

Close and lock the lid and put on high heat until you start seeing an even stream of vapor coming out of the valve - you can even open the lid to check and make sure it's boiling. At that point, you can turn the heat down to medium (this should still maintain the boil) and count 5 minutes "processing" at no pressure.

When time is up, turn off the heat, and carefully remove the lid. Lift out the jars and put them on a clean kitchen towel to dry and cool. You may hear a metal "popping" sound as soon as 30 minutes or as late as two hours - they may all pop at different times. This indicates that the jar is sealed correctly and can be stored un-refreigerated -the middle will be dipped down like the safety seal on the jars you buy from the store. I always have one or two that once completely cool, have not "popped" yet. In that case I open them, clean the lid and lip of the jar again and "process" again, this time starting with cold water since the contents will have cooled - or just store in the refrigerator and consume first!

Yields about six 8oz or 250ml jars.

Crema Catalana - Spain's Creme Brulee from your pressure cooker

2012-02-04T02:56:00.000-08:00

This Spanish dessert has been adapted to the pressure cooker Bain Marie method and will yield the same results as the original that has to be carefully and constantly stirred over an open flame - without any risk of curdling the eggs or worrying whether this custard will set.

Spain's Crema Catalana and France's Creme Brulee are strikingly similar - save a few spices. Just like with the Brulee' there can be many variations, some with all milk, some with half milk and cream, and some with just cream. In fact, this dessert is a the source of a delicious debate as to which came first and who copied the other.

Typically, this dessert is served in wide, shallow earthenware cazuelas - which maximize the area to caramllize. It's tricky, but not impossible to pressure cook these dishes - you can stack and stagger them from each other. Then, the cazuelas are carmellized with a special metal disk that is heated in a fire (or your gas burner).

To save yourself the extra work and need purchase of these containers and items, you can just make this with regular ramekins or cups and with a mini kitchen torch or your broiler to create the delicious caramelized top!

Culinary Torch Usage Tips
I just bought myself an early Christmas present - a culinary torch! If you're using one for the first time here are a few tips:

Store it up-high in a safe place where kids and guests can't harm themselves (where you hid your sharp slicing mandolin is a good spot)
Don't hold the dessert cup while caramellizing - you don't want to burn your finger and drop the dessert!
Don't caramellize directly on your counter-top otherwise your risk scorching it as well - a metal cookie sheet is a good place to do your food torching.
Don't caramellize on top or near of anything flammable (paper towel, table cloth, wax paper, kitchen curtains, long hair, wicker baskets, etc.)
Put the torch away in its safe place immediately after use - they tend to look like a fun toy to kids.

Crema Catalana - Spain's Creme Brulee

Pressure Cooker	Accessories	Pr. Cook Time	Pr. Level	Open
5 L or larger	Trivet, Steamer, mold/cup	5-8 min.	Low (1)	Natural

Yields 10 Espresso cups, 6 Ramekins and 4-6 cazuelas (depending on their size).

2 cups or 500ml Fresh Cream
6 Egg Yolks
5 Tbsp. or 80g White (caster) Sugar
1 Cinnamon Stick (or 1tsp. of Cinnamon Powder)
1 Orange, zested (or lemon, or mandarin, or a little bit of each)

For Garnish:
few shavings of nutmeg
about 4 Tbsp. Raw sugar for caramellizing

Additional Equipment:
Vegetable Peeler
Small Saucepan
Fine-mesh strainer
Pour able container (about 3 cup capacity)
Small Bowl
Aluminum Foil
Plastic Wrap
Culinary Torch (optional) or Broiler

Begin by heating up the cream, citrus zest and cinnamon stick on low heat stirring occasionally. When the cream begins to boil (foam) turn off the heat and let the ingredients infuse (about 30 minutes).

In the meantime, prepare your pressure cooker by adding two cups of water, the trivet (if needed) and steamer basket.

In a mixing bowl, add the egg yolks and sugar, whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Then, when the cream has cooled to room temperature (it should feel neither hot nor cold when you stick your finger in it) add the yolks and stir with your whisk just enough to get everything mixed together well (do not whip).

Next, pour the mixture slowly through a strainer into a spouted container (if you have one, it will make pouring the mixture into the cups or ramekins easy).

Pour the mixture into ramekins, cover tightly with foil and arrange in steamer basket so that all are sitting straight (otherwise you will get a crooked diagonal crema). Lower the basket into the pressure cooker carefully, and if you still have some vertical space and extra cups, you can stack the additional cups on top in a second layer.

Close and lock the pressure cooker. Turn the heat up to high and calculate 8 minutes cooking time for ramekins and only 5 minutes cooking time for espresso cups at LOW pressure.

When time is up, open the pressure cooker using the Natural Release method - move the cooker to cold burner and don't do anything. Wait for the pressure to come down naturally (about 10 minutes). For electric pressure cookers, cancel or unplug the cooker to disengage the "keep warm" cycle and count 10 minutes of time and then release the rest of the pressure using the valve.

Open the pressure cooker and carefully lift out the custards. Open the first and jiggle it a bit. It should be nearly solid, but not liquid (this means they have set)- they will solidify further when chilled. If they are still very liquid, pressure cook for an additional 5 minutes with the same opening procedure noted above.

Remove the custards and leave to cool uncovered for about 30-45 minutes.

Once the custards are cooled, cover them in plastic wrap and place them in the refrigerator to chill for 3-4 hours or overnight.

Before serving, remove the custards from the refrigerator, grate a little nutmeg and sprinkle the top of the custard with a thin, even layer of sugar. Then, either melt the sugar with a culinary torch or slide them under the broiler in your oven to melt and caramellize the sugar.

Serves 6-10.

Pressure Cooker Review: Kuhn Rikon Duromatic - 4.8 "Excellent"

2012-02-02T01:05:00.000-08:00

The design is sleek and immediately recognizable. Styled like a futuristic Moroccan Tajine this pressure cooker is solid and it feels and cooks with quality - this is the most efficient pressure cooker I've tested so far - and it's easy to use but its Swiss precision does not account for human imprecision.

Features: (5 out of 5 stars)

Attractive Design - The Kuhn Rikon Duromatic does not look like any other pressure cooker on the market today. Its coned top is beautifully minimalist with just a few concentric circles to the peak and a little nub in the middle- the pressure signal. The base is a simple cylinder and in contrast to all of this roundness the handles feature sharp angles and undulating lines at the same time.
Easy to Use - Put on the lid and go. No other buttons, levers or settings to choose. The pressure valve is easy to remove, clean and remount.
Fill Lines - Capacity marks inside the pot indicate 3/4 full (for regular pressure cooking) and 1/2 full (for cooking grains, beans and other foamy foods).
All-metal Valve - The pressure regulator, and its housing, are all metal (save the small heat-safe plastic button on top) making this valve extremely durable compared to its peers.

Safety: (4.75 out of 5 stars)
The Kuhn Rikon has more safety systems than most other pressure cookers, but gets a small ding in this category. This "ding" does not render it unsafe but is a minor design flaw - see Safety Vents, below.

Primary over-pressure release valve - Integrated in the pressure signal, activates to release pressure if the pressure cooker reaches 17.4 PSI.
Secondary safety valve - Located a small distance from the primary pressure valve, a small spring fixed silicone stopper will pop out and release pressure (in case the primary should be obstructed or not working properly to release pressure).
Correct Placement Nub - A little nub within the lid's rim retracts when the pressure cooker is closed correctly. Should the lid be placed on the cooker incorrectly, this nub will prevent the pressure cooker from reaching pressure.
Self-locking Gasket - Once the pressure cooker has reached pressure, the silicone gasket will expand to lock the lid of the pressure cooker closed. I have not tried, but the Kuhn Rikon product manager assures me, that even a strong man cannot forcefully open the pressure cooker while the gasket has expanded to maintain pressure and block the lid from twisting open.
Safety Vents - The Kuhn Rikon boasts two safety vents that come into action in case any of the previous safety measures were to fail. At that point, the gasket will buckle and allow pressure (and some of the contents of the pressure cooker) through the metal cut-outs in the lid. The cook should always point these windows in the rim away from him while operating the pressure cooker. On this model, the vents are on each side of the lid, making it difficult to understand how to position the cooker with both vents pointing away without having the handle stick straight out from the cook-top.

Performance and Durability: (4.75 of 5 stars)
This is where Swiss precision locks horns with human imprecision, and its unparalleled efficiency shines. Durability of the materials is also a winner - though a decorative piece is unnecessarily flimsy (removing a quarter star from the rating - see last paragraph in this section).

The Kuhn Rikon pressure regulator consists of a bar, a spring and a little top. The simplicity and materials make this valve easy to clean and incredibly durable.

The pressure indicator is the small black point in the middle of the cone-shaped lid. When the pressure cooker reaches pressure the indicator begins to rise out of the housing to display the metal bar. When the first red ring on the bar is seen, it means that it has reached "Low Pressure" when the second red ring displays it means that it has reached "High Pressure".

The advantage of an indicator bar vs. a pressure selector, is that the cook can turn down the heat while the bar is in any position to maintain that pressure. For example, anywhere between the first or second ring for "Medium Pressure" or just before the first ring for "Extra Low" pressure.

Figuring out the correct heat to maintain pressure point has taken me a lot longer with this pressure cooker than any other so far. The Kuhn Rikon will maintain pressure only when a precise amount of heat is applied - since the knobs on many cook-tops do not have any numbers or marks the cook really need to learn to feel where this precise spot is. This takes a few initial recipes to discover. However, once you find the "sweet spot" for how much heat is needed to maintain pressure you will be pleasantly surprised at how low you can go.

The Kuhnn Rikon Duromatic is the most energy efficient pressure cooker I've tested so far (knob position 1.6 vs 2.75 for Fagor Futuro).

Releasing pressure by pushing the indicator, as instructed in the instruction manual, for the normal release requires the cook to stand there and push the indicator for approximately 2 minutes. The vapor is diffused by the decorative valve cover and wafts around the lid (not shooting in any particularly inconvenient direction as with the Magefesa Ideal or Fissler Vitavit).

The Kuhn Rikon product manager told me of a faster, undocumented, way to release pressure by pulling up the indicator - I tired it released all of the pressure in less than 30 seconds!

Kuhn Rikon has another model with a pressure valve that allows the cook to release pressure automatically by twisting the indicator. They call it a two-stage pressure release (seen here) - I will update this review with information about how this "automatic" release works, should I have the opportunity to try it.

This brings us to the only weak spot in Kuhn Rikon's durability: The decorative housing cover. It is held by three heat resistant plastic clips. They are subjected to the cooker's high heat, super-heated vapor and constant movement when it's removed and replaced to clean and dry the valve - eventually breaking. In two years of using this pressure cooker often I have gone through two of these covers (illustration 3, below). This cover is not essential to the function of the pressure cooker, but not having it suddenly turns the beautiful cooker into something to hide from guests.

Clean-up: (4.75 out of 5 stars)

Valve removes with a tool (butter knife or coin are ok)
Lid and Base Hand Washing Only

Although the valve is one of the easiest to clean, it is made of small pieces (1st illustration, above) so the cook will want to ensure that there is a screen over the sink drain so as not to loose any of the small essential pieces of the valve.

The manual states that all parts must be hand-washed. The thick metal base prevents most foods from scorching - but if they do (due to the cook not adding enough liquid or keeping the heat to high during cooking) the high-quality stainless steel will let most food comes off with the swipe of a sponge or a short soak of soapy water.

Accessories:

All of the Kuhn Rikon pressure cookers come standard with a rack. It is useful when making jams, or wanting to keep delicate things off the bottom of the pressure cooker, but a bit of a disappointment when I might want to do advanced pressure cooking techniques that require a trivet or steamer basket. It is too low to be used as a trivet and, if flipped over, the edges are too thin to use it as a steamer basket.

However, this is not a major ding since it is easy to purchase suitable substitutes.

Also included is a brief and easy-to-understand user manual with an extensive ingredient cooking time tables.

Other Details:

18/10 Stainless Steel with aluminum sandwich base
Available Sizes: 2.5, 3.5, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 12qt
Spring Valve with indicator Bar (0 to 17.4 PSI)
Universal Base - safe to use on gas, electric, ceramic and induction cook-tops
Width: (opening) 8.6" or 22 cm, cylindrical; Height (internal) 5.6" or 14.25 cm; Weight: (Base) 4.45lbs or 2.02k , (Base and Top) 6.34lbs or 2.87k
10 Year Warranty
Made in Switzerland
Kuhn Rikon Instruction Manual
Manufacturer Website: Kuhn Rikon Switzerland
Recipes on this website using Kuhn Rikon Duromatic

Conclusion and Score:

The Kuhn Rikon Duromatic is lauded by Modernist Cuisine as their favorite brand. Quality is commiserate with price for this pressure cooker and gets top marks from me, too, for consistency, quality, functionality. It is easy to use, and clean. The all-metal pressure valve has survived kitchen experiments other pressure cookers have not. Getting the hang of the right heat setting to maintain pressure takes a little longer with this precision instrument and a decorative piece could be reinforced to last as long as the rest of the cooker.

The Kuhn Rikon Duromatic is the most energy efficient pressure cooker tested - needing less heat to maintain pressure than all other cookers in the Hip Pressure Cooking test kitchen.

To Purchase:

From U.K.

Have you used this pressure cooker?
Add to this review by leaving your comments, below!

Our relationship with a manufacturer, or lack thereof, does not affect the outcome of the pressure cooker reviews. In the interest of full disclosure, we would like to note that:

The equipment used for testing has been sent to Hip Pressure Cooking by Kuhn Rikon at no cost. In 2011, Kuhn Rikon featured Laura Pazzaglia as a Celbrity Chef on their website. Hip Pressure Cooking has contributed content to be translated into several languages and included in Kuhn Rikon's International e-newsletters.

Carbonara ai Carciofi - Arichoke, Pancetta & Egg Sauce (Pressure Cooker)

2012-01-25T01:07:00.000-08:00

The luxurious and silky Carbonara sauce, dotted with smoky pancetta, helps the artichoke's naturally nutty and sweet flavor bloom.

Carbonara is a fairly new traditional dish in Italy - introduced during WWII when American soldiers brought cured and smoked bacon into Italy on their navy ships. How this meat, intended for sailors, actually made it into an Italian kitchen is left to our imagination. Today, "traditional" carbonara is made with smoked pancetta (which is what I used) which is more widely available in Italy than bacon.

In central Italy, and particularly around Rome, artichokes are almost always in season. The only exception is the sweltering summer when the plants faint from the heat and go dormant waiting for the next puff of crisp Autumn wind. This explains why so many dishes in this region include artichokes. Romans fry, sautee', bake, stuff, gratin, grill, marinate, stew and boil them. Either alone or in harmony and contrast to other ingredients - as in this recipe.

Use the freshest best quality eggs you can get your hands on. They will be a key ingredient to this dish and you want them to taste great. Do not be alarmed if this recipe does not call for cooking the eggs, the heat of the freshly-strained pasta will take care of that - so read the whole recipe before starting and move quickly when it's time to dress the pasta.

No salt is called-for in this recipe. The pancetta, Pecorino Romano cheese and pasta cooking water will have plenty of their own . However, if you substitute the cheese with something that is not salty, like Grana or Parmigiano, be sure to taste and adjust for seasoning before serving.

Carbonara ai Carciofi - Arichoke, Pancetta and Egg Pasta Sauce (Pressure Cooker)

Pressure Cooker	Accessories	Pr. Cook Time	Pr. Level	Open
Pressure Pan or larger	none	5 - 7 min.	High (2)	Normal

Don't toss the pasta into boiling water until you have assembled all of the needed components for making the carbonara (illustration 5, below). Ingredients are for one pound or 500g bag of pasta of your choice.

3.5 oz or 100g Pancetta (or Bacon), diced
1 Garlic Clove, smashed
6 Artichokes, cleaned and sliced
1/2 cup white wine
2 sprigs Parsley, chopped
1 lemon

4 fresh top-quality eggs
1/2 cup Pecorino Romano, Grated
Black Pepper, freshly ground

Prepare large bowl with water and the juice of one or two lemons. Then, for each artichoke remove outer leaves, peel outer skin off stem (if any) and slice off top 1/3 of leaf tips. Then, slice the artichoke in half and scoop out choke with melon-baller, and slice the cleaned half into small wedges. Quickly toss into bowl with water and lemons to keep from oxidizing.

In the cold pressure cooker add the pancetta, and turn the heat to low. When the fat has rendered and it begins to sizzle, about 5 minutes, add the garlic clove.

When the pancetta is golden, lift the pancetta out of the pressure cooker and set aside. Then, turn the heat up to medium-high and add the strained artichoke wedges. Stir everything around to coat the artichokes with the fat from the pancetta and then stop stirring to let the artichoke wedges become slightly golden (about 5 more minutes).

When everything has a nice color, de-glaze the pan with the wine. Carefully use your spatula to life all of the delicious brown bits stuck on the bottom of the pan and incorporate them into the sauce.

Close and lock the pressure cooker. Turn the heat up high and when the pan reaches pressure, lower the heat and count 5 to 7 minutes cooking time at HIGH pressure. When time is up, release pressure using the Normal pressure release - push, twist or lift the button or valve to release pressure.

In the meantime, in a separate bowl, mix the eggs with pepper and pecorino cheese. When the pasta is near the end of it's cooking time, take a ladel of the pasta water and slowly pour it into the bowl with the eggs while constantly stirring - tempering the eggs.

Strain the pasta and put back in it's pan and then immediately slowly pour down the egg mixture while stirring the pasta. Lastly, stir in the pancetta, artichokes and parsley.

Serve immediately!!

Serves 4-6.

The 10 HOTTEST Pressure Cooker Recipes of the year ...and why they're sooo special!

2012-01-19T01:16:00.000-08:00

10. Mezzemaniche Pasticciate (Pasta Casserole) - a one-pot-meal that doesn't even look or taste like it came from the pressure cooker, and in fact, it didn't it well... not directly!

9. Canellini and Mint Bean Salad (Quick-soak Method) - This recipe details the little-known method that has all of the speed and convenience of using un-soaked beans, but without any of those embarrassing gaseus emissions!

8. Pipe Cacio e Pepe - The Italian version of Mac & Cheese... need I say more?!?

7. Three-Bean Salad (Three Beans Cooked Together) - A pressure cooker technique innovation, this recipe is an American classic, but what really makes it a winner is the introduction to the three pressure cooker cooking zones and how to take advantage of them to cook three bean varieties with vastly different cooking times.

6. Beer Can Chicken - A pressure cooker technique innovation, this recipe features cooking a whole chicken in the pressure cooker by "sitting" it on a beer can. Using this method actually allows you to use a larger chicken than one that you would need to fit "lying down" on a pressure cooker rack, as is the "traditional" whole chicken pressure cooker method.

5. Ligurian Lemon and Olive Chicken - Another pressure cooker recipe and technique innovation, this recipe combines traditional and pressure cooking techniques and includes tips on how to get "maximum velocity flavorage" to any pressure cooked meat!

4. Hummus - A pressure cooker classic, made more special by the attention to detail to make each ingredient play it's part to the fullest.

3. Smashed Potatoes - Another pressure cooker classic, and first lesson in the "Beginner Basics" learning series with my favorite method for just-right creaminess.

2. Blackberry Italian Soda (Fruit Extraction) - A pressure cooker recipe and technique innovation, the method for extracting fruit juice using pressure steaming is detailed for the first time and possible uses - like making your own soda are included.

And finally, the top pressure cooker recipe of the year...

1. Soft, Medium and Hard-Boiled Eggs - A pressure cooker technique innovation, executed with the help of my 5-year-old kitchen helper and inspired by the scientific process and breathless photography of Modernist Cuisine.. soft and medium-boiled eggs come out of the pressure cooker for the first time!

Which ones have you tried, and what are your top three recipes of the year?

Zuppa di Ortiche - Stinging Nettle Soup (pressure cooker)

2012-01-18T01:06:00.000-08:00

Spring is already coming here, outside of Rome, so why not forage in the wilds of your backyard or nearby woods for Nettles to make a creamy soup? It's my recipe for a guest post on Herbivoracious!

Herbivoracious is a veggie blog unlike any other. Michael's aim is to make vegeterianisim "hip" by using gourmet techniques, ingredients and appliances (like a pressure cooker!) His recipes will make any omnivorous foodie look twice - and has won many awards to prove it! In addition to being a talented chef, his photographs are amazing. He manages to get everything done while maintaining a completely unrelated tech job, writing a book and raising a family. You'll wonder.. does he sleep?!?

Intrigued? See my recipe and guidance for picking Stinging Nettles published exclusively on Herbivoracious!

Mesciua - Ligurian Pressure Cooker Bean Stew

2012-01-11T01:02:00.000-08:00

The January cover of La Cucina Italiana caught my eye with a wonderfully wintery soup. The recipe seemed like a perfect candidate for the pressure cooker - and improvisation!

The description of the recipe evoked a romantic vision of port wives sweeping up any grains, legumes and spices dropped from holes in the sacks destined to to Genoa. They would wash them off and the toss them into a simmering pot for dinner.

In fact, there is no exact recipe for Mesciua so my mind was set free. I slipped into the imaginary sandals of a port wife, broom in-hand, finding culinary gold between the planks of wood on the dock to greedily shove in my pockets and bring home to make a rich and flavorful "peasant" dish.

Let your fantasy, and pantry, dictate what you will use in your own soup. You could use any beans, grain and spice. The recipe used cannelllini and chickpeas, farro or buckwheat, and finished with a grind of pepper at the end. The grains of Farro seemed to get lost in all of those round and plump beans so I chose barley. And, even though La Cucina Italiana insists finishing with black pepper (an exotic spice 400 years ago). I say that you could use any spice that you find in your pantry which might be neglected (no more than three, please)!

So make your own mesciua (mix) with any two or more bean varieties, any grain and any spice!

Instead of cooking each bean variety separately, I pressure cooked them together using the steamer basket for the canellini beans (which only need half the pressure cooking time of the Chickpeas). Adjust the cooking times for your version according to your bean and grain cooking times.

Mesciua - Ligurian Pressure Cooker Bean Stew

Pressure Cooker	Accessories	Pr. Cook Time	Pr. Level	Open
5 L or larger	Trivet, Steamer	15 min.	High (2)	Natural

1 heaping cup or 200g of Chickpeas (or Garbanzo Beans), dry
1 heaping cup or 200g of Canellini (or Navy) Beans, dry
1/2 cup or 100g Perlated Barley
1 Garlic Clove
1 Tbsp. Olive Oil (see notes).

The spices of your choosing (maximum 3). I used:
1 clove, 3-5 pepper kernels, 2-3 coriander seeds
4 cups or 1 L Water

Salt and Pepper to Taste (I used 2 tsp. Salt and 1 tsp. ground pepper)
Unrefined or High-quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil to finish
Ricotta Salata or Pecorino Romano, peeled into ribbons

Tea Infuser ( to hold the spices)

The night before, soak each bean variety separately. Or, 30 minutes to an hour (depending on how many pressure cookers you have), quick-soak the beans - for now, each variety should be treated separately.

Rinse the chickpeas and put them in the pressure cooker with the garlic clove, tea infuser filled with spices, the water, barley and salt. For pressure cookers with a jiggler or weight-modifyed pressure valve (these make a lot of noise and release vapor during operation) add a 1 Tbsp of Olive Oil to control foaming. For modern spring-valve or electric pressure cookers (these use a spring valve) you can omit doing this - because we will not be using the valve to release pressure in this recipe.

Next, add the trivet and steamer basket containing the rinsed canellini beans.

Turn the heat up to high and when the pressure cooker reaches pressure, tur it down and begin counting 15 minutes cooking time at HIGH pressure.

When time is up, open the pressure cooker using the Natural Release method - move the cooker to cold burner and don't do anything and wait for the pressure to come down naturally (this could take up to 20 minutes).

Pour the beans from the steamer basket into the pot, remove the tea infuser. Adjust for salt and pepper, stir well and let stand for about 5 minutes before serving. Scoop into individual bowls and garnish with optional cheese ribbons a drizzle of unfiltered, or your best, olive oil.

Serves 4-6.

Bollito con Salsa Verde Rustica- Italian Pressure Cooker Boiled Beef with Rustic Green Sauce

2011-12-20T01:01:00.000-08:00

Boiling meat in the pressure cooker can turn chewy nerves and ligaments from a cheap cut of meat into gelatin in about an hour. What really makes this dish unique is the rustic green sauce - a tangy bright acidic note that compliments an, otherwise plain, boiled meat.

The Italian Bollito, boiled meat, is more of a technique than a recipe because the choices of meat to be cooked this way are vast but the results are always the same: tender and juicy.

In Piemonte, the Northern Italian region that boarders with France and Switzerland, they bring boiled meat to a decadent art. The Piemontese have "official" Bollito Misto, mixed boiled meats, that is fit for a king's medieval banquet. It is not "official" unless it entails seven cuts of Beef, seven types of meat and offal for additional flavor and adornment, seven sauces (Green Rustic, Green Rich, Red Sauce, Horseradish, Mustard, cugna, and Honey sauce) and five side dishes (Boiled Potatoes, Spinach and Butter, Mushroom Sautee', Sweet and Sour Onions and cup of broth from the meat boil).

Today, modern Italians with jobs and small impatient mouths to feed only use one to three kinds of meat, one or two sauces and any one or two side dishes - any from the above list will do -and they use the resulting broth sparingly with the meat and then save it for making a delicious risotto. For an example of a simple boiled meat mix visit Frank, regular reader of this website and writer of my favorite English-language Italian cooking blog, to see how he makes Bollito Misto. When using a mix of cuts or meat, phase the meat into the pressure cooker according to it's cooking time.

Back to our simple one-meat boil, you can take inspiration from the Piemontese feast and use any of the cuts of beef, but since Europeans butcher animals differently from Americans it does not exactly work out to seven. Basically, you'll want to use non-prime the Beef Cuts from the front or rear of the cow that are cheap, tough and full of ligaments, muscles and tendons. U.S.: Beef Round, Brisket and Shoulder (3 cuts). Europe: Rump, Silverside, Topside, Thick Flank, Leg, Shin, Brisket (7 cuts). Other meats and offal that could be added are: Veal tounge, Calf's head, Ox tail, Ham Hock, Chicken (whole), Cotechino (offal pork sausage stuffed into pork leg) and Skirt Steak Roll.

For this recipe, I only used one cut of beef, and it was a boneless piece from the leg (Round cut).

Bollito con Salsa Verde Rustica- Italian Pressure Cooker Boiled Beef with Rustic Green Sauce

Pressure Cooker	Accessories	Pr. Cook Time	Pr. Level	Open
5L or larger	none	50-60 min.	High (2)	Natural

A gluten-free and low-carb version of the Salsa Verde can be had by replacing the bread crumbs with yolks from three boiled eggs. Anchovies are optional though you will not really taste them they just the extra depth they bring to the whole sauce.

1 large Carrot, cleaned and cut into two
1 Celery Stalk, sliced into two
1 medium Onion, sliced in half (ends removed) skin still on
3-8 Cloves (the spice) to taste, poked into the center of the onion
1 small tomato or a dash of white wine vinegar (to add acidity)
1 sprig, Sage
1 sprig, Rosemary
2-3 sprigs, Thyme
1 Bay Leaf
3 Tbsp. Salt
1 Tsp. Pepper Corns
about 6 cups or 1.5L of water (see instructions)
2 lbs of Beef (I used Round)

Salsa Verde Rustica:
1/2 cup or 50g. un-seasoned Bread Crumbs (or yolks from three boiled eggs)
1/2 cup or 75ml White Wine Vinegar
3 Anchovies (optional)
1 tsp. Capers
2 Garlic Cloves, peeled
2 bunches or 4.5 oz or 120g Parsley, leaves and stems
1/4 cup and more as needed, Olive Oil
1 tsp. Salt
Black Pepper, to taste

To Boil the Meat:
Before starting take the meat out of the refrigerator and set it aside so it can start coming up to room temperature.

Prepare the pressure cooker with 6 cups of water, and add the carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf, salt and herbs tied into a bunch. Bring the contents to a boil, uncovered on high heat, and then carefully add the meat. If the water does not barely cover it, add more until it does. Bring the contents to a boil, again.

Close and lock the pressure cooker. Turn the heat up high and when the pan reaches pressure, lower the heat and count 50-60 minutes cooking time at HIGH pressure.

When time is up, release pressure using the Natural method - move the pressure cooker to a cool burner and do not do anything, wait for the pressure to come down on it's own (about 10 minutes). If the pressure has not come down in 10 minutes, release the rest of the pressure using the Normal pressure release - push, twist or lift the button or valve to release pressure.

Set the meat aside in a tented dish, and reduce the borth, on high heat without the pressure cooking top, for about 5 minutes.

Then, strain the stock and de-fat. I like to let the bowl cool in the refrigerator overnight so that I can easily remove the fat from the broth the next morning.
The advantage of doing this is that the roast also cools and solidifies in the refrigerator making it easy to make thin slices.

However, you can do all of this the same day though it will be challenging to slice warm meat.

If you left everything in the refrigerator until the next day, de-fat the stock (it may have jelled- and that is a good sign). Slice the meat, place in an oven-safe serving dish and wet (do not float) with the broth and warm through covered.

Save the rest of the broth to use in a pressure cooker polenta or risotto!

To make the Salsa Verde:
Pour the vinegar onto the breadcrumbs and set aside. Puree the rest of the ingredients together: Anchovies, Capers, Garlic, Parsley, Salt, Pepper and Olive Oil. Then, add the bread crumbs and puree' for about 30 seconds to combine. Continue adding more olive oil until you reach sauce consistency. This can also be made a day in advance and covered tightly in the refrigerator it will keep it's bright flavor and color 'til the next day.

Serves 6-8.

Pressure Cooker Roasted Baby Potatoes

2011-12-14T01:00:00.000-08:00

Fluffy on the inside with a lovely browned skin on the outside, baby or fingerling potatoes can be perfectly cooked in no time by combining traditional and pressure cooking techniques.

Piercing them before pressure cooking helps the skin remain intact, instead of having it split unevenly under pressure and using the minimum amount of liquid helps them cook quickly without boiling.

Pressure Cooker Roasted Baby Potatoes

Pressure Cooker	Accessories	Pr. Cook Time	Pr. Level	Open
Pressure Pan or larger	none	5 min.	High (2)	Natural

4-5 Tbsp. Vegetable Oil

1-2 lbs or 250 to 500g Baby or Fingerling Potatoes (however many will just cover the base of your pressure cooker)
1 sprig, Rosemary
3 Garlic Cloves (outer skin on)
1/2 cup Stock
Salt and Pepper to Taste

In the pre-heated pressure cooker, add the vegetable oil. When it has heated through add the potatoes, garlic and rosemary. Roll the potatoes around and brown the outside on all sides (8-10 minutes). Then, with a sharp knife, make a small pierce in the middle of each potato (do not stir the potatoes, anymore). Pour in the stock.

Close and lock the pressure cooker. Turn the heat up high and when the pan reaches pressure, lower the heat and count 5 minutes cooking time at HIGH pressure.

When time is up, release pressure using the Natural method - move the pressure cooker to a cool burner and do not do anything, wait for the pressure to come down on it's own (about 10 minutes). If the pressure has not come down in 10 minutes, release the rest of the pressure using the Normal pressure release - push, twist or lift the button or valve to release pressure.

Remove the outer skin of the garlic cloves (and serve whole or smash, to taste). Then, sprinkle everything with salt and pepper to taste and serve!

Serves 4-6 (as side dish).

Pressure Cooker Review: Fagor Futuro - 3.8 "Very Good"

2011-12-07T01:16:00.000-08:00

The Futuro is instantly recognizable with its art-deco style handles and wide curvy base that is just asking for a roast. Fagor's Futuro does alot of things right - but some functionality takes you by surprise -literally!

Features: (3.5 out of 5 stars)

Wide Base - While the opening is standard for a 6L/qt pressure cooker 8.8" (22.5 cm) at its widest point this pressure cooker is 9.25" (23.5 cm)! A half inch (1cm) does not sound like much, but when other pressure cookers, like the Fissler Vitavit, have an interior that is narrower than the opening a half inch difference starts to look like 2" (5 cm)!
Short Handles - I prefer pressure cookers with short handles, but the handles on the Futuro look so much alike, that I'm always trying to put the top on the wrong handle - a very small inconvenience for not having a long handle sticking out over a flame of the next burner or sticking out where my kids can reach them easily.
Easy-cleaning valve - It really does just spin out and pop into your hand in a single piece that you can run under the water in your sink. But.. (see Clean-up section)

Unfortunately, the Fagor Futuro lacks one feature that is standard in most modern - and even first-generation pressure cookers - a maximum fill line. Although expert cooks can eye-ball it someone who is new to pressure cooking might have a difficult time deciding where exactly 2/3 capacity might be, and then half capacity for pressure cooking foamy or foods that expand, like legumes and grains.

Safety: (4.5 out of 5 stars)

The Futuro would have gotten 5 out of 5 stars in this category, if there had been a maximum capacity fill line - an important guide to ensure that food particles do not interfere with the operation of the pressure and safety valves. Although the manual lists only three, I have found this pressure cooker to have four safety mechanisms.

Primary Over-Pressure Release - Integrated in the pressure release valve, releases pressure in case that it rises above the selected pressure.
Secondary Safety Valve- Located under the lid handle, kicks in if the first is not able to reduce excess pressure (in case the first is clogged or the pressure is too high).
Self-locking handle - The pressure cooker will lock closed when it begins to reach pressure, and will not allow you to open it until all pressure has been released.
Safety vent - in case the first two safety mechanisms should fail, the gasket will buckle and allow pressure (and some of the contents of the pressure cooker) through the metal cut-out in the lid. Always point this little window in the rim away from you while operating the pressure cooker.

Performance: (3 out of 5 stars)

I have a love-hate relationship with the pressure regulator of the the Fagor Futuro.

I love the selection and release, but hate the indicator and regulator.

Pressure selection is a snap with big numbers and a lever to choose the needed pressure: 1-Low Pressure (8psi) or 2- High Pressure (15psi).

The pressure indicator, a little yellow thing buried in the handle, is too quiet and imprecise. It will pop up when the pan is reaching pressure, not when the selected pressure has been reached. Turning down the heat at the first sight of the yellow signal, as is customary, could mean a loss of pressure. Instead, you are supposed to wait until the valve goes into over-pressure and starts spewing out vapor, before turning the heat down. I've taken to touching the raised signal with my finger - if it has "give" or falls back down the pan has not reached pressure. But if it is solid to the touch then the pan has reached pressure. Unlike other pressure cookers tested, the Futuro is so quiet that it will not make a bunch of noise when it has reached over-pressure and it's time to turn down the heat. Getting this pan up to pressure requires a fair bit of monitoring.

Although this valve appears to emit quite a bit more vapor than its peers during operation. The numbers tell a different story. In my tests the Fagor Futuro has an average 3.5% evaporation, the same as the Kuhn Rikon Duromatic.

However, the heat required to maintain pressure is higher than the Kuhn Rikon Duromatic (knob position 2.75 vs. 1.6 ) - which makes this pressure cooker grossly less energy efficient than its peers.

When pressure cooking is finished, I love this pressure cooker all over again. When it's time to release pressure, I just need to flick the pressure selector to "release" and a diffused, wide, low-noise cloud shoots straight up into the exhaust fan above my cooktop. Why would such an intuitive function be something I love about this pressure cooker?!? Well, other high-end pressure cookers require you to turn something slowly, or push a button and lever and stand there for two minutes while the pressure cooker de-pressurizes shooting vapor in every possible direction except for where it would make the most sense.

Clean-up: (4 out 5 stars)

Valve comes out easily
Gasket easy to remove and hand wash
Lid should be hand-washed, only
Base is dishwasher safe but hand washing is recommended.

The valve is really easy to remove for regular, fast cleaning, but there are some nooks and crannies underneath where the system attaches to the pan, that can only be reached by un-screwing the top part of the pressure cooker... and it takes a Ph.D. in Fagor construction to figure out how to put it back correctly. However, depending on the use (and I use this pan alot), you would only be faced with this about once a year (or after a particularly messy experiment).

The total weight of the Futuro Pressure cooker base is about half a pound (200g) less than equivalent -sized Fissler Vitavit and Kuhn Rikon Duromatic Pressure cooker bases, and you can really feel the difference when it's time to clean it. I found the Fagor Futuro stainless steel a little "stickier" than other pressure cookers I have tested so far. This means that you will need to use a little extra elbow grease after pressure cooking a particularly caramellized meal.

Accessories:

The Futuro comes standard with a trivet and stainless steel steamer basket. Like the base, the steamer basket is the widest I've seen in pressure cookers of equivalent size 8.5" (21.5cm) vs. the 7.5" (19 cm) of the Fissler Vitavit. It is nice and deep and has two handles that stay out of the way.

Fagor made this steamer basket extra special by capitalizing on the holes that need to be there anyway and turning it into a grater- helpful in a pinch but not ergonomic enough to become your primary grater.

Also included is a small recipe book, with color photographs and recipes and a very detailed instruction manual.

Sold Separately:

Dessert Accessory Kit
Canning Accessory Kit (for 10L/QT and above)
3-piece Measuring Set
Glass Lid
Pasta Basket (see their website)

Other Details:

18/10 Stainless Steel with aluminum sandwich base
Available Sizes: 4, 6 and 10qt
Spring Valve with dial pressure selector (8 and 15 PSI)
Universal Base - Safe to use on gas, electric, ceramic and induction cook tops
Width: (opening) 8.8" or 22.5cm, (widest point) 9.25" or 23.5 cm; Height (internal) 6" or 15.5cm; Weight: (Base) 4.14lbs or 1.88k , (Base and Top) 6.28lbs or 2.85k
10 Year Warranty
Made in Spain
Fagor Futuro Instruction Manual
Manufacturer Website: Fagor America
Recipes on this website using Fagor Futuro

Conclusion and Score:

The Futuro has the best pressure release I have seen, yet. It's quiet, really automatic (you can walk away while it is releasing pressure instead of pushing a button for two minutes to release pressure), and best of all the vapor goes in the right direction (straight up into my exhaust fan). The shape of the base is the next-best feature. I was able to fit roasts in the Futuro that would have otherwise been cooked diagonally in other pressure cookers. But, unless you have a well-trained ear, it's a bit of a surprise when it reaches pressure and it needs a bit more heat than its peers to stay there.

The Futuro is fun to use and well.accessorized but compared to other premium cookers it's not the most efficient in terms of energy consumption.

To Purchase:

From U.K (similar model with different base).:

Have you used this pressure cooker?
Add to this review by leaving your comments, below!

Our relationship with a manufacturer, or lack thereof, does not affect the outcome of the pressure cooker reviews. In the interest of full disclosure, we would like to note that:

The equipment used for testing has been sent to hip pressure cooking by Fagor at no cost. On occasion, Fagor makes links to Hip Pressure Cooking recipes from their facebook page, and Hip Pressure Cooking has contributed some content to the recipe book sold with the Fagor Elite.

Kohl mit Bier und Speck- Savoy Cabbage Stewed with Beer and Bacon (pressure cooker)

2011-12-07T01:15:00.000-08:00

When I brought home this cabbage, I remembered the Austrian farmer's market from a few years ago behind Graz's Opera House at this time of year.

The ground was not yet covered with snow, baby Ada was impatiently writhing in her sheepskin stroller pocket.
Well-insulated farmers were proudly standing behind table, after table of potatoes and cruciferous vegetables.

It was at that moment, that I realized that "eating seasonally" was definitely for those who live in California and around the Mediterranean Sea - the winters there never had such slim pickings!

How much Sauerkraut can an Austrian eat?!? It turns out, that they do not just ferment their cabbage but stew it alot - the perfect accompaniment for Austrian and German boiled meats and potatoes!

Kohl mit Bier und Speck- Savoy Cabbage Stewed with Beer and Bacon (pressure cooker)

Pressure Cooker	Accessories	Pr. Cook Time	Pr. Level	Open
5 L or larger	none	3 min.	High (2)	Quick or Normal

1 Tbsp. Butter
1 med, Onion sliced into strips
3.5 oz or 100g of Bacon or Smoked Pancetta, cubed

1 Medium-sized Savoy Cabbage (about 1.5lbs or 750g), sliced into strips
1/2 cup Beer - Blonde (or veggie stock)

Start by slicing the cabbage in half, and then slicing each half into strips. Wash and dry the cabbage strips. Then, in the pre-heated pressure cooker, on medium heat without the top, add the butter, onion and bacon or pancetta. Simmer stirring occasionally until the onions begin to soften (about 5 minutes). Next , add the cabbage and beer.

Close and lock the lid. Turn the heat up to high and when the pan has reached HIGH pressure, lower the heat and count 3 minutes cooking time.

When time is up, open the pressure cooker using the cold-water quick-release method - take your pressure cooker to the sink and carefully run water over the top ensuring not to cover any of the valves. For Electric Pressure Cookers: Open using the Normal Method - turn the valve or button to release pressure.

Remove the cabbage to a serving dish immediately so it can stop cooking. Mix and serve!

Serves 6-8 (as a side dish).

Pressure Cooker Reviews, starting next week!

2011-11-30T02:46:00.000-08:00

Magazines and cooking shows have done their best to review pressure cookers but, often, they are tested by people who do not know how to pressure cook nor are aware of basic operational and safety features.

Starting December 7th, and about once a month thereafter, we are going to publish pressure cooker reviews. They will quantify and compare specific data like time to pressure, evaporation, energy consumption, and dimensions with an detailed look at their features (or flaws)!

Each review will conclude with a "Hip Score" - a simple average of the cooker's score in each category. Is clean-up more important to you than performance? Then you should pay careful attention to the rating in that category on the Hip Score Card.

The tests are executed in my own kitchen following a standardized testing routine with the help of a few techie gadgets and, most importantly, designed to simulate real cooking situations.

What we already do, behind-the-scenes...

Before using a pressure cooker in the photographs of the step-by-step recipes we run it through the same three recipes twice to get acquainted with the pressure cooker's features, opening methods and quality.

A pressure cooker risotto, for example, is an excellent recipe for testing the browning, heat expansion of the base (too much means that the top may not fit properly on the pre-heated base), time to pressure and evaporation. A tomato-based pasta sauce is made to test heat distribution (even distribution means no burning in spots). Finally, I make a custard to see if pressure is maintained with no fluctuations (which could make a holey or even "fried" custard).

But now, in addition to these behind-the-scenes testing, we're taking careful measurements and combining all of this information to give you comprehensive pressure cooker reviews.

You can participate, too!

If you have the same model pressure cooker that is being reviewed, we'd love to have your thoughts on how you like it. Just leave a comment at the bottom of the review - the more information you share the better your fellow readers can make their purchasing decision.

To Manufacturers: Want to Include your Pressure Cooker?

To submit your pressure cookers for a free, detailed, expert review please contact info@hippressurecooking.com. If your pressure cooker gets high marks, it will be added in the photographed recipes rotation and added to the list of pressure cookers we use on this website