H.O.B. MAGAZINE

Welcome to the Horizon Of Being!

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Sat, 07 Mar 2020 07:46:00 +0000

The road starts when we leave our home...
The road ends when we are back home...

But I believed since we start to travel there will be no
ending because someone who has tasted such freedom
never can live without it again and their whole life will
become a never ending trip beyond the horizon of being...

H.O.B. MAGAZINE - collection of non-ordinary travel experiences.
THIS BLOG MOVING TO A NEW PLACE. PLEASE, FOLLOW THIS LINK

Have you ever spent a night in a sleeping bag on the Great Wall of China?
Have you ever swim naked in Mekong river under moonlight?
Have you ever been attacked by Orang Utan?
Have you ever drunk vodka with Papuans?
Have you ever lost your way in jungles?
Have you ever watched sunset from the summit of a volcano?
Have you ever asked personally vice governor to help you with visa extention?

Please join us!

We will show you adventures without limits, the world without borders, life without regrets!

1. READ HOB > articles and stories one by one

2. HOB ARCHIVE > titles of all articles and stories

3. HOB GALLERY > pictures from my travels

4. LIFE IS SO > check it first!

5. INTERVIEW > by media, 22 of July 2009

Alexander Pototskiy
H.O.B. MAGAZINE

Dancing on the crater of a volcano

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 11:38:00 +0000

We were dancing there on 3000 meters above sea level.

We were dancing there while we forgotten about who we are and we left our thoughts at the bottom of the mountain.

Our dance does not belong to any category of dances. It was a mere salutation of two lunatics. We were fighting for every meter and dabbling in dirt. But still we were climbing steadily to the place, our ultimate destination. We were not afraid of any delays or being late.

Thunder peal is our alarm and it is calling for us to start our performances soon. Heavy rain is our instrument that creates chaotic rhythms. It is truly magical and amazing.

Adrenalin rushing pushes strong desire into our mind, our veins. Obedience is vividly haunting our thoughts. We possess strong vacuum feelings in our hearts and sparks shies on our eyes.

Our stage – a crater of volcano, truly is an ancient abyss.

Our audiences - motionless stones, lonely ice, sulfur, seductive wind and the ever weak sun.

We are the actors - two lunatics, two madmen under protection of a fortune star. That's why we still on our feets, dancing on the edge, bleeding and craving for the peak of the volcano.

We were dancing and we look straight into chaps of this volcano. We didn’t see any of our own reflections. There were only shapes of imminence.

We danced until the sun leave for the day. We danced until the moon up in the sky smiling at us, maybe for the final time too.

We danced and laughed in each other faces... how ironic, how unforgettable.

We both exhausted and went down to the bottom of the mountain with our glorious fake victory and a strong determination to see a new day tomorrow.

Maybe in our life, all dances are the same. The only thing difference is the stage. Whether it is Sibayak, Sinabung, Bromo or Merapi, there are just titles, nothing more.

It feels strange because insanity caught us more and more each day with every new performance. We lost track of our edge. We do not want to lose a game but maybe soon it will be too late...

Life is so colorful!

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 06:36:00 +0000

Don't be afraid, just open your eyes!

Life is so colourful even when you lost your crayons

Life is so colorful even when I'm in the shade

Lina Belinda
Surabaya | Indonesia

Life is so colorful

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Sat, 22 Aug 2009 12:30:00 +0000

Don't be afraid, just open your eyes!

Life is so colorful, it takes some tears to make us tough...

Life is so colorful, it takes some fear to make us brave...

Life is so colorful, it takes some silence to make a sound...

Shinta Dewi

Lost in Cameron Highlands

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Sat, 22 Aug 2009 03:56:00 +0000

Road on a edge

Our way suddenly became a narrow mountainous road. Driver seems like not to be bothered and continue to keep high speed. Mitsubishi Lancer’s engine roared loud and gear switched all the time. I was very glad that car still have a belt and I use it without wasting time. Situation quite delicate because every turn of such road followed by dangerous gap and every kilometer followed by growing altitude.

I see night through window. I hoped that everything will be fine, but everything happened too fast - glary headlight, brake's squealing and obscureness. No, we weren’t smashed by huge truck and laying dead. We didn’t even gone from this road or fly down from hill. Our story had different ending.

The car just stucked between heading on us truck and slope of mount. We were still inside. My heart beated ten times faster than usual. Well, it wasn't most comfortable ride I ever had, but anyway in the end I reached my destination that I was going to.

Green Idyll

Next morning was filled with virginity of first impression. Provincial town showed me up that there has relaxing atmosphere, pure friendliness and cute buildings. This place looked like more European than Asian. That’s why I had kind of disorientation.

It was like most famous hill resort of Malaysia. It was a cooling shelter between hills for everyone who wanted to escape from sultriness of tropical plain. It was a green idyll for everyone who search for freshness and touch of nature. It was a door for everyone who tired of annoying noise of Kuala Lumpur.

Nobody in a rush there. Life there is slow moving and give us those precious moments when we could sit down, calmed down and enjoy everything happened around. You would easily find this place on a map - Cameron Highlands. I lived more than 1 month in that Kingdom of Fresh Air. Every breath I felt aroma of tea, strawberry and roses.

I usually hiking in a jungle in the morning where I can explore diversity of nature. In the evening if the weather was cold I was learning culture of unknown country. My life was heading to somewhere I didn’t have any idea about. It was sad, but I wasn’t alone. I knew I had a person who always could help me to find a way. When I woke up I see her on my bed. We sleeping together.

Jungles and Tea

Easter Sunday in 1967 became a local story that everybody knows. American businessman Jim Thompson mysteriously disappeared on his walk in jungles in Cameron Highlands. A lot of investigations have been made, many hypotheses have been put foreward, journalists have made sensations, whole world was curious, but no one found the truth.

Good news - in present days it is impossible to lost the way in tourist areas of Cameron Highlands, because you will find there detailed maps, good surface of a trail and signs everywhere. That’s why trekking became most popular activity for backpackers while Jim Thompson's trail became most famous route.

Besides trekking you can find some passive activity to do. Every morning heavy fog try to hide something incredible from your eyes. But a bit later curtain will fall down and green maze laying on a hills appears for you. This is tea plantation - fascinating view of Cameron Highlands from postcards. You can come closer to touch leaves of tea plants. While doing this you will see morning dew. If you don’t mind about cup of tea and if you have interested in tea production - you may visit Boh Factory. People there make good business.

Besides tea plantations you may visit farms of rose, strawberry and cactus as well.

Searching of Rafflesia

Most happiest moments for me were the days when some of my Russian friends arrived in Cameron Highlands. This days we had adventures and a lot of fun together.

Once me, Igor Zabelin and his girlfriend Olga Kovba went out in jungles to see giant flower Rafflesia. Some species might be over 100 centimeters diameter, but to find it by yourself was very hard, because the flower away from main routes where all tourist go. Blooming period of Rafflesia was short. That’s why when Rafflesia bloomed every travel agency of Cameron Highlands became very active trying to offer "great" adventures to backpackers.

We used alternative way - get all information from locals and try to find Rafflesia by ourselves.
One old man told us where we should go. It was small village of Orang Asli about 50 km away from tourist area of Cameron Highlands.
We hitchhiked there and start to walk on our own. In beginning there was two trails - the first was straight to Rafflesia and the second was hunter's route. Unfortunately we chose wrong one without realizing. The way turn to be confusing maze. We end up deep in jungles far away from village, far away from people. We have lost our fucking way without any chance to get out! It was the end!

...After few hours three dead tired Russians were staying on an asphalt road. Their clothes were very dirty. Their hands, legs scratched. One of them was barefoot. Strange, but they were smiling. Suddenly one car stopped and picked them up. When the driver knew a story, he said

"It is very pity, guys, to hear about what was happened to you"

Russians replayed : “why did you think it’s pity? It was one of the best experiences in our lives!"

Driver was really surprised of such answer...

***

Next day we were back to that village again, talked to Orang Asli and they bring us to Rafflesia. It was just a flower. Nothing special. We feel a bit dissapoited.

What we had a day before in jungles was our great adventure.
What we have now - just lazy walk to the biggest flowers in the world.

Two different experiences, two different days.
What we prefer more?

Of course experience of being lost in a jungles!
Smelly flower can't be compare with such things.

Author's note

I wrote this story in a memory of those happy days we all had in Cameron Highlands.

Cyclist's Profile

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 01:04:00 +0000

Name: Johannes Dietrich Braun

Destination: Tibet and South-East Asia

Average speed: 80 - 100 km a day, depending on the road conditions. Tibet just around 50 km a day.

My experience: Germany - East Europe - Central Asia - Tibet - India

12 tips for anyone who want to cycle:

1: go alone or with somebody is a very important question. I would suggest to start with a friend because it makes things easier in the beginning and a bit saver maybe. You can still seperate after a while if it don't works out.

2: get all infos in the internet this days. there are so many cycling webpages with useful information.

3: choose your equipment carefully. It will be with you for a bit and with cheap shit u will not have much fun.

4: choose your bike carefully ( the size and the sattle are very important for no pain later on ). Better a bit heavier (but longer lasting) than fancy alu bling bling. Also as dirtier it looks, as longer it will stay with you.

5: good maps are important. GPS is just extra weight you don't need, except u plan a sahara dessert trip. Take good music with you.

6: always stay cleen ( especialy after having a shit ). Otherwise you will feel what i'm talking about. Cycling pants are bretty useful.

7: always drink enough water and protect yourself from the sun. it's quite easy to forget that.

8: take a proper lock with you and if possible always take your bike in your room.

9: it's much better to have more time than more money.

10: go with the flow and forget the traffic rules from your homecountry. Handlebar mirror is gold worth.

11: You should learn at least a few words in every country you come through. It shows some respect, makes life easier and you will get smiles from the locals.

12: last but not least never forget: most borders are creations in your own mind. You are able to do way more things in life then people usually expect. Take it easy and you will have the best time in ur life !

Author

Johannes Dietrich Braun:

"i want to be a free man, able to do what i want to do, everytime and everywhere. And i wish that one day everybody around the world could be so free as i am. I trust in God and in all good things. I believe we humans are small and little between much bigger things around us, but everyone of us is absolutely individual and neets love and respect. Thats my lifeline. My motto is: `carpe diem et noctem` because life is short and we have to do good things, help the weak ones and to enjoy this life..."

author's webpage
author's blog

Hiker's Profile

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 15:41:00 +0000

Name: Skip Potts

Destination: USA

Average speed: 50 km a day

My experience: over 6000 km across America

12 tips for anyone who want to walk:

1) Buy good socks - I always scoffed at $12 socks until I started going through an average of a sock a day while walking 30+ miles. When I switched, bot only did they last but I stopped getting blisters.

2) Find your shoes - Don't buy into some extravagant hiking shoe unless that's what you are comfortable in. I wore running shoes my entire walk because that's what I liked and they worked marvelously. Also remember that when you run or walk a lot your feet spread so you might need bigger and even wider shoes than you are used too.

3) Moleskin - Moleskin is an adhesive strip that is fuzzy on one side and that you can put over blisters or 'hot spots,' if you used it before you get a blister then you won't get a blister. If you are even thinking you might be getting a blister, use it, it'll make life a lot easier.

4) Make sure you really want to walk. Probably you will go a ways and then catch a ride hitchhiking, that's just fine. If you want to do a distance walk, make sure before you ever think about it that it is for you, not fame or a charity or anything else because most of the time it will only be you.

5) Call ahead. You can camp plenty, but nothing feels as good as a warm meal and shower after time hiking on the road. If you can find a place up the road to bed down, do it, don't always wing it.

6) One place to find lodging is Couchsurfing.com, I would recommend using the website a few times and building up some references before ever hitting the road.

7) Have milestones. Overall, walking is not a physically tough way to travel after you get used to it, but mentally it can be very difficult. Have borders, milestones and general things to look forward to, even in a mostly spontaneous trip.

8) Mostly, you are alone with your thoughts, spend some time like this before you leave to see if you can do it. Many people get overwhelmingly lonely or have other problems.

9) Pack light, you will be carrying (or pushing if you have a jogging stroller) all of your things, it will wear on your body.

10) Enjoy yourself, live in the moment and enjoy the scenery and people around you on your journey when you run into them. Walking isn't fast, if you are just looking to get somewhere, you never will, it is all about the walk.

11) Have a back up. If you use a phone or map or nav system, whatever the case, have a back up, you don't want to get lost in the middle of nowhere. Carry back up tools and second or even third batteries for important electronics.

12) Don't limit yourself by walking. I walked the entire USA, every step, but when I took time off I allowed myself to get in a car. The purpose of a trip is to see things, don't miss out on something because of the very stubbornness that will allow you to succeed.

Author

Skip Potts: Let's see, I've been a lingerie salesman, a mathematician, a high rise window washer, a fry cook, a waiter, a university teacher (twice), a maid of honor, a joker, a smoker a midnight . . . no, wait, that's Steve Miller, but you get the point. I've done a lot things. I spent September 1st 2008 to June 6th 2009 walking across America for the charity PFEE.org. It was a time I learned about a true life and myself, and now I am searching for a way to hold onto that life in a permanent and meaningful way, to inspire others to live more and discover the world and all it has to offer.

What's holding you back?

Web Page:
People For Educational Equality

Blogs:
Walking Distance
Adventure Nerd

Hitchhiker's Profile

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 04:11:00 +0000

Name: Alexander Pototskiy

Destination: South-East Asia

Average speed: 300-800 km a day, depending on the road conditions

My experience: 22 months trip, from Russian Far East to New Guinea and back

12 tips for anyone who want to hitchhike:

1. If nobody pick you up it is only your fault, because you are doing something wrong.

2. Sometimes car may pick you up after 5 minutes, sometimes after 5 hours. Be patient! There is no place in South-East Asia where hitchhiking doesn't works.

3. Keep your clothe clean. Nobody wants to pick up a dirty stranger from the streets.

4. Be honest, friendly and polite with the driver. He will do the same to you.

5. Religion, politic and sex - 3 topics that best avoid with the driver.

6. When you trying to stop a car, look straight on the driver and smile. Show him that you know what you are doing.

7. Big trucks going slow, but they going for long distances. Small sedan cars driving in faster speed but there are going for short distances. Sometimes you have to choose what you prefer.

8. If driver in the end ask for money from you it is only your mistake. You should have explained this before you get inside his/her car.

9. On the road with little traffic will stops more cars than on a road with heavy traffic.

10. Try to choose a good and safe spot to stay on the road. It is very important. Driver should have enough time to see you and decide he want to pick you up or not.

11. Good rest at night is better than another few hundreds kilometers without a sleep. Don't hitchhike at night if you don't have a serious reason for it. If you really need to hitchhike at night, then you should go to a petrol station and talk directly to a driver. Remember that never sleep in a car because it will not be polite and you put the driver in danger as well. If you are in a car at night, try to talk to the driver all the time. It will help the driver not to fall asleep.

12. Better start to hitchhike early in the morning if you are planning for a long distance. Also don't eat too much before you start because some drivers will treat you with a food.

Coming soon – A Cyclist's Profile

Edge of the World

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 13:31:00 +0000

story - Olesya Novikova
photo - Viktor Gumenyuk and Olesya Novikova
translation - Alexander Pototskiy

post in russian read here

Two volcanoes 30 km away from a city. Both are active, one of them is erupting right at this moment.
View on volcanoes is most banal view you can get from our windows.
How much I was missing such "ordinary" things when I was away...

Welcome to Kamchatka! This is my home.

Ascend to volcano's summit once in a life. I made it twice.
Maybe my second life begins? Strange, but I didn’t notice this...

"This summer will be snow-less" – the most boring joke in Kamchatka.
"If this summer will be warm... " – the most popular phrase.

After couple of months somehow summer will come. I hope when it happens, I will have a day off. I will go to mountains or maybe to ocean. There is black sand on the shore. Not yellow, not white but really black.

We don't have spring. We don't have it at all. There is dark snow still on the streets. Then for a moment a flash of green and snow again, rather dirty it can gets.

It is really hard to find a place more unexpected than this. Kamchatka opened up not to everyone. Someone see only grayness of buildings, miserliness of summer, fogs and blizzards.

If you come for holidays there is a possibility that you will not see volcanoes because they are hidden from your eyes underneath a smoke. You will see nothing, just line of a horizon.

You can fly to Kamchatka with expensive and easy plans, but the weather here will not let you in Geyzers Valley even for awhile.

You can live here, work in an office, go to shop and night club, but you never will see eruption, never will spend a night at the foot of the volcano, never will breathe the sulfur, never will look into an eyes of a bear, never will raft on a river, never will freeze near ocean...

You can live on Kamchatka, but without Kamchatka.

I definitely know where the edge of the world is.
It is so far that you even can't go any further.

I am living there...

Author

Olesya Novikova is a young writer and traveler from Kamchatka. She backpacked in South-East Asia for 6 months, alone.After she is back to Kamchatka she wrote a book "Азиатское Притяжение". You can purchase her book in Russia. I met Olesya in Laos on October 2007.
Author's blog here

HOB Tales: Volume 1

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 04:11:00 +0000

picture by Mark Barlog

There is a traveler. He spend a long time on the road and have a lot of incredible adventures. A day like that will become a reality when he met other travelers same like him. Together they sat on a beach somewhere in Indonesia, Thailand or anywhere else.

There was a night with thousands of stars in the sky. Ocean whispers them gently. Sand was warm and soft.
Three or maybe even six of them were enjoying this magical moments. They made a fire. At the end of the day, they all will sleep in their tents or hammocks. But now is the perfect time for sharing travel tales. Every traveler has their own collection of short traveling stories that they tell many many times to many many diffirent people.

Such stories became a legend of you if you are a traveler. Now it is my turn to share my travel tales. I made the fire and everyone ready in a silence moment.

Language Barrier

Language barrier can be a big problem if you step out to see the world. I do not agree with this point.

When language creates communication problem, it also resulted in a lot of funny situations. Smile to people who don’t understand you. In the end you will find ways how to communicate and you will have a good story to share.

Three Russians in the middle of the road and waiting for the right car to hitchhike.

This is Laos - poor road condition, not many motor vehicles and always nature around. While you waiting for next car to come, you can easily start to read a book or do something else. It can take a long time before you leave this place.

Mark was playing with his kashgarian knife and trying to make sandals from trekking boots. Later it proves to be a mistake. You can't create sandals from old boots!

Me and Kris were busy with something else. A flower is hanging in my hair and I was posing for Kris for pictures. We were wasting our time. Almost half an hour past since we last saw a car. So when a Toyota Hilux appears at horizon we waved at the vehicle.

Besides Russian language, three of us are fluent in English as well. But in Laos we mostly never use our mother tongue. When the driver stops his car in front of us, we started to explain to him what we want in English and by hand sign too. Usually it takes about one to seven minutes to get inside a car even though the person does not understand a word of what we saying.

We are always successful in this hundreds of time! We were sure that there is no person in the whole Asia that do not understand our explanation.

But now we are facing an exceptional situation.

We tried everything. We tried very hard. In the end the driver do not understand us at all!

Many times we showed him that we want to go straight ahead in this road and we need a ride to Vang Vieng. It just does not work!

We tried to explain it slowly but no use too.

We gave up.

I said to my friends in Russian:

"Мы ничего с этим не поделаем. Давайте ждать следующию машину.”
"(Nothing we can do. Let’s wait for another car)"

Before I finished this sentence, the driver interrupts me. He suddenly starts to talk in Russian too!

"Мужики, вы что из России? Я же в СССР раньше учился. В Киеве! Как я могу вам помочь?"
"(Hey guys! Are you from Russia? I studied in USSR before, in Kiev! How can I help you?)"

Now we were shocked and we look like we do not understand a word from his mouth. After a moment we all laugh. We laugh very hard! The driver laughs with us too. Definitely one absurd situation. Nothing we can do.

Car was going to Vientiane. We got a ride straight to Vang Vieng and had a good lunch too. Many people from Laos used to study in USSR. After so many years, until now they still can remember Russian language very well and still keeping some warm memories about their student life in USSR.

My friend orangutan

I always love to tell this story because it starts with a sentence: "I was once attacked by an orangutan..."

But before I will continue there is a short introduction.

Orangutan is a highly intelligent primate with reddish hairs and strong arms which are twice as long as their legs. Those apes are children of rainforests of Borneo and Sumatra. Even their names translates from Malay language as human from forest (‘orang’ means people, ‘hutan’ means forest). They usually weight up to 80kg and height up to 1.5m.

Ok, now we can continue. So, I was once attacked by an orangutan. It happened in Surabayan Zoo. My friend Shinta and I were wandering around. We watched komodo dragons, sumatrian bears, tigers and even african giraffe. But most attracted we were by big reddish apes in small cages.

We cannot come close to them because there is a fence and a sign warning us that it is prohibited. I do not care about these warnings. It is not a problem for me. But there were a lot of children around and I do not want to show them any bad example. What I have to do now is just to watch the orangutans from a far. It was boring. But I was not the only one feel this way. The orangutans too were bored in their own cage. They were just sit there and staring at people. Some people throw them peanuts, but they were not even bothering.

Shinta and I continue walking. Soon we noticed one of the orangutans is with a zoo keeper. Now, the orangutan is not in a cage! I thought that finally I have the chance to see him in a closer range. When we came closer something happened with the orangutan. He almost jumps on me! The zoo keeper shouts while trying to hold him, but the orangutan was too strong and too quick. At the moment, out of panic, I have forgotten my weak Indonesian language and Russian language and English too.

Shinta warn me quickly hide my water. Then I realize I have one bottle of water in my hand. I thought if I hide the bottle, the ape will beat me. Then again why should I hide this bottle if the poor orangutan is thirsty? I quickly give him the water. He finished it in seconds. Then the orangutan came slowly and hugs me!

Suddenly, he changes his mind and run towards a woman that was sitting far away in a bench. The orangutan jump over her. I cannot see her face expression but she sounds like wanted to scream but can not do it. The orangutan grab a water bottle from her hand and came back. He was very naughty but still very young in age. That maybe explains his playful characters.

I smile to the orangutan. For a second, it feels like he smiles back to me.

It is like you never know where and when you will find a new friend...

picture by Shinta Dewi

Asia without Borders. Interview by media.

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 04:59:00 +0000

Arseniev State Museum
Vladivostok, Russia
22 of July 2009

Translation of interview:

Hamock and sleeping bag instead of hotels. Adventureous journey instead of ordinary life. Straight from the post of boundary control to the hall of media conference. Results of cultural expedition - a trip to 7 Asian countries.

Alexander Pototskiy: I brought along some materials with me but the most important of all was a talk. I have to explain to people what is 'Asia without Borders' and the reasons why I did this. I have to search for those people that will be interested in this.

It was the first hitchhiking trip of Alexander Pototskiy. He initially planned to finish the whole expedition within 4 months, but in the end it took him almost two years to complete the whole journey.

USD400 was what he had at the beginning of the trip but there were easily fully spend too quickly. That is why the traveler have to do some part time jobs along the road.

China, Laos, Vietnam, Thailand and another 3 Asian countries. Some of them Pototskiy passed by few times. He worked together with Singaporean photographer and journalists from Malaysia. He spend almost half a year in Indonesia.

Alexander Pototskiy: Of course I love Russia, but I have lived there for 20 years already. I think its enough. I have this strong wish for adventures and new countries. So the remaining 20-30 years I want to spend on other countries.

Now this traveler from Vladivostok giving advices to people who preparing for long journey, writing a book and organizing a photo exhibition.

But desire for freedom is pulling him to new expedition.

Palina Pankova. Vesti Primorye.

Link: PTR

Topic on HIV - Viet Nam

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:56:00 +0000

Check H.O.B. GALLERY first!

HIV IN VIET NAM
- all information from http://www.unaids.org.vn/

Viet Nam’s HIV epidemic is still in a concentrated phase, with the highest sero-prevalence among key populations at higher risk. These include injecting drug users (IDUs), female sex workers (FSWs) and men who have sex with men (MSM). Prevalence in the general population is estimated at 0.53%. According to the 2005 Estimation and Projection Report, there were an estimated 293,000 people living with HIV in 2007.

Cumulative reported data as of 31 August 2007 were 132,628 cases of HIV and 26,828 cases of AIDS. There have been a total of 15,007 deaths due to AIDS in Viet Nam. HIV exists in all 64 provinces/cities, in 96% of the 659 districts and in more than 66% of the 10,732 wards/communes. Of all reported HIV cases, 78.9% are in the age group 20–39, with males accounting for 85.2% of total reported HIV cases. People living with HIV are getting younger and heterosexual transmission is becoming more significant.

The HIV epidemic in Viet Nam is not monolithic. The epidemics in HCMC and the north-east coast initiated earlier, while epidemics in other parts of the country are more recent. This variability has resulted in a geographic concentration of HIV cases in big cities and provinces where the local HIV epidemic in groups of IDUs, FSWs and MSM is substantial.

With a national average of 28.6%, HIV prevalence is highest among injecting drug users. In comparison, average prevalence among FSWs is 4.4%. These figures differ from province to province. In 2005/2006, HIV prevalence among MSM in Ha Noi and Ho Chi Minh City was 9% and 5% respectively.

There is significant interaction between the risk behaviours of sharing injecting equipment and risky sex.

Significant numbers of injecting drug users share unsterilised needles and syringes and/or are involved in high-risk sexual behaviour with different partners, including sex workers. Sex workers do not consistently use condoms with their clients and other sexual partners. Men having sex with men also do not consistently use condoms during anal sex with their partners, and they also have sex with male sex workers and with females.

FAQ ABOUT HIV IN VIET NAM

1. What is the prevalence of HIV in Viet Nam?
2. How many people in Viet Nam are living with HIV?
3. Where is the epidemic located?
4. What is the nature of the epidemic and who is most at risk?
5. What is Viet Nam doing to respond to HIV?
6. What are the major challenges facing Viet Nam in its response to HIV?
7. What is "harm reduction"?
8. What is the connection between HIV and poverty?
9. What is the connection between HIV and gender inequality?
10. What role should people living with HIV (PLHIV) play in the response to HIV?
11. What does GIPA stand for?
12. What is the goal of the One UN Initiative in Viet Nam?
13. How many UN organizations are part of the One UN Initiative in Viet Nam?
14. What are the five elements of the UN reform in Viet Nam?
15. Where can I find more information?
16. How can I help?

Check this link

Contact Info

No 24, Lane 11, Trinh Hoai Duc Street, Ha Noi
Telephone: (84-4) 3734 2824; Fax: (84-4) 3734 2825
Email: vietnam@unaids.org

Path to Immortality

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 11:26:00 +0000

One way ticket

I can say I am truly in love with China. I am very fascinated by Chinese culture. I am crazy about Chinese food. I really admired Chinese mentality and language that I always wish to learn the most is Mandarin. I was 19 when this love suddenly developed. My heart was searching for new world to explore, new doors to open, new things to discover and of course to learn and experience more. It was the time when a young man like me full of excitement cannot sit still in one same spot any longer while his star of fortune shining lonely somewhere beyond the horizon of being and calling for him. Eventually, I followed my star, I followed my dreams and I ended up in China. It is like a saying in Russia - One way ticket. Now I am 22 and this is my fourth visit to China. I have already been to Heilongjiang, Jilin, Liaoning, Beijing, Tianjin, Hebei, Shandong, Henan, Hubei, Hunan, Guangdong, Macau, Guangxi and Yunnan. It may seems to be more than enough for one country but our loves (or my love) still feel as strong as first day. Somehow, we never were lovers , we are always just admirers.

While I am writing this, I sat in the summit of a sacred mount which is one of the five sacred mounts (peaks) in the whole China. Here almost reach evening, skies became yellow and air changes gently from warm to cold. I know very soon sun will leave and I will leave too. But I am sure I will be back in China again the same like sun always back in the morning.

I will come for my fifth visit, fifth date and fifth act of love.

One thing

Anyway there is one thing (maybe few, but I try to mention only that one) in China which I really do not favor. Where ever you go (from world heritage to a simple park in nobody-knows-city) you will always find a ticket booth. Quite often prices are not cheap. For example Longmen Caves for 80 yuan, Shaolin Temple for 100 yuan, Army of Terracotta Warriors for 90 yuan and Taishan for 100 yuan. It maybe necessary in the sense that collected funds goes not just in someone's pocket but for maintenance, improvement of infrastructures, cleaning and etc. I totally agreed with that, no complains. But on another hand if you are a budgeted traveler like me, you simply cannot afford it. So that is why sometimes I have to avoid ticket booth by jumping over fences, cross over through holes on the walls or sneaking in while security guard is not watching.

Taishan mount is one of the examples. I made my way through forest, climbed over fences and ended up entered far away from the main gate. It was bad from my side but I do not have a choice. I hope authorities of Taishan tourist side will forgive me. Anyhow, I hope they collected enough entrance fees from other hundreds of visitors that can afford the entrance ticket on that same day.

Mount Tai

"Let's protect the mutual heritage of the whole world - Mount Taishan!" notice on a wall for tourists.

So what is Taishan?

How to describe it?

What to search for?

What you will find?

Maybe I have an answer.

Taishan is where a real China, innocent and pure, old and traditional, peace of land with preserved image inside, spot for pilgrimage, sacred place associated with sunrise, birth and renewal.

There is a history. Chinese emperors, philosophers, poets, writers make ascent to the summit of Mount. Taishan still kept their breath in air and stones keep memory of their footprints. In 219BC there was proclaimed the unity of the empire. Some of constructions dated back to those days which left us only dust of the past. For example Temple Dia was first built during Qin Dynasty (221-207BC).

There is a religion. Taishan is sacred for Taoists, but have Confucius temple and Buddhist shrines as well. People from all over the China came here everyday for worships.

There is an art. You can see almost thousands of Chinese calligraphy masterpieces carved in a cliff of Mount Tai.

There is a natural wonder. Marvelous peaks covered by fog on 1500 meters (peak of Jade Emperor 1545 meters) above the sea level with scenic areas for watching beautiful landscapes around. Melody of nature sounds peacefully created by song of birds, play of wind and whisper of Han Dynasty Cypresses. Perfect harmony between the man and the mount.

There is a myth. A myth about legendary Pan Gu - first man in the world who was born to separate the ground and the sky. After his mission has been accomplished his eyes became the moon and the sun. Mount Tai is what his head was before.

Taishan is truly Chinese place more than anything else in the whole Middle Kingdom.

People saying: “If Mount Tai is stable, so is the entire country.”

Others are saying: “If you come to Mount Tai, you will see Chinese culture in miniature.”
Perhaps, that was what I have been looking for.

Path to Immortality

I followed red walls of Doumu Hall.

Ding...Ding...Ding...Wind was playing with bells while I staying in front of the gate keepers. I look at them, they look at me. Even eyes not moving and ding-ding-ding are the only one sound exists in that reality. We keep a distance for a while before I make a step forward without asking permission to enter. I know the gatekeepers - two big cats that will not stop me. Since very old time when the world was different their job is just to stare in silence. So I walked in. The Hall has few temples to worship Goddess Dou Mu. I wonder around and fill my lungs with air which is smelled like burned paper mixed with aroma. Sky surprisingly blue and a bunch of small clouds pass slowly over my head. When I see a Chinese student I stop. They were throwing coins trying to hit metallic plates which are hanging over a pond. No, they are not vandals. Perhaps, they do this for bringing themselves good luck. I smiled at them gently and continue my walk. At that moment I wish to have good luck too but my pockets are empty.There is no coins.

Later I found a monk. He was sitting on a chair while hundreds of visible lights came from the sun to give something almost sacred to his look. I cannot see his face clearly, so I do not know whether he is smiling or he is sad.

I start to wonder: What was he searching in his life when he decided to become a monk? Peace? Happiness? Immortality? I do not know but all of us do that and he is not an exception.

Maybe (I want to believe so) he have found this ‘something’ and he satisfied with his discovery while others unable to understand it because they are blinded with their own selfishness. Maybe he even wants to share his truth with the rest of us and we just have to come and ask him about it. But I did not do that. I left him in peace, to rest in his own world. Blank face with eyes on it tells me nothing.

I did not know his name, his past, his thoughts, but the monk, his still silhouette of calmness stuck in my mind. He appeared to be a great mystery to me.

As for answers to my questions, they will stay forever with that man who sitting lonely under the blue sky at Doumu Hall.

I start my ascent at late afternoon from First Gate to Heaven and by the evening I have reached Middway Gate to Heaven where I decided to overnight on top of a stone in a cliff. Skies were full of stars. In the end of next day I pass through Archway to Immortality and finally reach summit of Taishan. Overall a bit more than 6500 stairs with 22 kilo backpack. How was it???

It was simply hard. Staying almost on my knees and putting hopeless eyes in the sky at the final gate (South Gate to Heaven) I was far away from being immortal and definitely do not feel myself like in heaven. No doubt, I looked half dead and half breathing God's creature. It was kind of sophisticated way of suicidal. I should have left my backpack at the feet of the mount, but it was too late to think about it now and I am paying a price for my own silly mistake.

When night came I closed my tired eyes at Pagoda at Moon View Peak with hopes to open it again next morning when the sun will wake up on the east side of the mount. This is how new day will be born...

I called my ascent Path to Immortality, but I was not searching for it. I never did. I believe that life is so wonderful and we should be happy with what the nature given us. Yes, there is a clock but it is nothing to be afraid of. We come and then we leave. We always pass by. This is the rule of eternity.

To be a guest in this world is better than to be a gatekeeper of it.

I hope when we gone, only than we will become immortal in a words we leave to the people. The words same as this one carved in a cliff of Mount Tai centuries ago.

Epilogue

Mao Zedong said: "He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true man"

Those words became immortal. The same as well for words of Confucius the philosopher from Qufu and others whose names I did not mention. Mao Zedong was a truly one leader of Chinese nation, the man who made a history. What he once said is inerasable since the time he past away in 1976. Anyhow, from my opinion, his words about Great Wall fit more to Mount Tai. Taishan is the place every Chinese should visit in their life. It is a great pilgrimage to the gates of Real China.

***

There was a woman. I had seen her while I was on my knees in front of South Gate to Heaven. She looks over 60 and colour of her face shows that she will not last for long. Her body and her soul were almost separated from each other, but there was a hope that these two parts will find a peace at the summit of the sacred Mount. Maybe she will get her last breath over there. Two young men were carrying her on their shoulders. They look like in a hurry. My eyes locked at them and after those people disappear I never in my life see this woman again. I stand up from my knees and said to myself:

"It is never too late for a step which leads you to something you always wish to do. Do not think, do not look back. Just do it!"

My Kalimas

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Mon, 09 Mar 2009 07:00:00 +0000

Life in an ocean – something man was not been created for.
When man finally realized it, he creates ship.

Text and photo by Alexander Pototskiy
Published in Jawa Pos(Surabaya, Indonesia)

WHEN DREAM COME TRUE

Being a young boy I kept staring at ships coming from all over the world to the place people called Zolotoy Rog (Golden Horn) harbor which in Russian city - Vladivostok.
Long time past since then, the world has changed and I am not a little boy anymore. Perhaps, one thing is still same – it is me staring at the ships again, but in a place people called ‘Kalimas*’ which is thousands and thousands miles away from my city. If say honestly, it is such an incredibly amazing feeling to know that it is enough for you just to step on board on the right ship and you can go to any part of Indonesia that you ever dreams of or ever read in a book. Right now you are here in the all-time crowded Surabaya, but then you enter Kalimas and after few days you can be on your way to Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Flores, Moluccas or even far away land of Papua. It will not be another boring trip inside a plane instead it will be a great journey of your whole life. It will be full of adventures and romances when you need to went through the endless ocean to the land which one you never step on before.
When I first arrived in Kalimas, I was sure that after few days I will leave for Papua on board of cargo ship but I was wrong thinking that and somehow later on Kalimas became my home for almost two weeks. When I settle down in harbor I have found friends, neighbors, ‘works’ to do and something for passing time. These things are priceless and I can never even imagine that Kalimas able to give me so much.

WHEN THE DAY IS STARTS…

…terrible smell makes you to cover up your nose, the heat which is common for Surabaya kept bothering you, annoying noises that constantly distract you and the fear of falling down into the deep water when you use unstable bridge between ships (I have lose two pairs of slipper and few pieces of note). But at the end of the day, I have got used to it. Then again, without these things, Kalimas will be not Kalimas anymore. So, people should just accept the way it is here.
When you are new in the harbor, you see only common daily activities in front of you - trucks come and go, ships load and unload, people sell and buy and local patrol rarely pay a visit. Later you started to see more… Everything in Kalimas fall asleep before the moon shows on sky and wake up with first light of sun. Through day and night, there is one thing never having the luxury to take a rest even for a while and that is Information Traffic. While staying in the harbor, I know that today a ship named INTY* will leave for Ambon before midnight, Valentine staying with broken engine not far away from Madura, there is a storm near South Sulawesi, patrol catches one person working on ship without documents and the captain being fined for 15.000.000 rupiah, Bintang Samudera 2 has not been repaired yet, the owner of Wulandari has been changed and the crew are now waiting for new order and etc. How can I know all that?
These information flows in and out 24 hours a day and finally it will get you even you will not ask anyone.
All and all, everything here is about the ships or the connection within them.

WHEN SHIPS ARE WAITING

It happens quite often in Kalimas. Ship waits for loading or repair to finish, for captain or mechanic to come back, for orders from owner or papers from Syahbandar to be sign. It can be hundreds of reason but on another hand it is a precious time for you to spend on board and searching for information that you need. The ship with color of ocean wave, color of cold metal or color of dark stone staying in silence without a move and waiting for you to come while crews wondering around with their own passing time activities. Usually no one mind to treat you as a guest because there are not many things to keep them occupy in day time. Modern commercial vessels can be rather not as interesting as these small wooden ships mainly because of its structural design. Besides, pearls of Kalimas are unique old boats from Sulawesi which are still use canvas in open sea. Pinisi, how they called it, refuse modern world marine revolution in ways to preserve their 100 years old sailing traditions. Such cruise can be rather dangerous, but crews are well-experienced who know how to win a challenge with the weather. With this, they are well-deserved to be respected.
Sometimes when people in Kalimas ask you, “Where are you from?” They did not mean the country of origin you are from but which ship you came from. I was from Wulandari – a small wooden boat with colors of 70s on it. That is why I give it a nickname – ‘Disco Ship’. The person in charge here is a huge Papuan named Anton. He is most friendly human being in harbor I met. I spend my night on board of Wulandari, but I could not sleep at crews’ cabin because roof is just 1 meter above floor and not so much fresh air ventilated. I choose to be behind the deck with my sleeping bag.
I usually have my breakfast, lunch and dinner in crews kitchen on board of Bintang Samudera 2. What we eat mostly - rice and fish. Simple food, but your stomach still can bear with it even though you will feel sick in this open ocean.
Someone said to me “time is not money in Indonesia”. I agree with him, he was right because no one would know when the ship will leave. Captain may say the ship may leave after few days but in fact it turned out to be the ship is still in waiting even after few weeks.

WHEN PEOPLE ARE SMILING

People in Kalimas have bad reputations. It is not a secret for anyone. They are labeled as cruel and dangerous. They are regards as ‘bad’ or ‘dark’ but there are all wrong. I came to the harbor and I do not sense any cruelty or danger. I see friendly human beings and hundreds of smile. They not just smile to you but also greet you. These people have one same love which they share between each other and this love is the blue ocean. Only sailors can truly appreciate its glorious beauty and no doubt there are the true sailors as well.
I personally think that we have wrong understanding about them because most of us did not realize that they are not cruel or rude. It is their specific profession as it demands braveness and coldness. They are not given much option and with that it leave scars on their personality.
Staying two weeks in the harbor I had incident only once. It was a late evening when one drunk Papuan come to me and he said in serious tone: “Lets fight!” But somehow later on we became friends.
People in Kalimas mostly are sailors from different parts of Indonesia. They bring together different backgrounds, cultures and atmospheres to this harbor. Apart from that, they bring in some sense of isolation. Kalimas –part of Surabaya, but crews very rarely allowed to leave the ship and enter the city. This explained the reason why not so much of Surabaya’s life flow into Kalimas. The truth is that the harbor separated from the city by invisible walls, but no one seems to be mind.

EPILOGUE

Finally I catch a ship to Papua when nobody would believe I can ever do it. It was a huge vessel Global Samudera owned by company SPIL. We embarked the nine-day journey from 16 of October and it too started my journey where I taste hard and happy moments of being in an open ocean. We disappear in its blue universe without any regrets. These are the nine great days of my life which can never be erased.
But it was not the end. My luck brings me to Singaporean photographer Zhuang Wubin who hold exhibition in Surabaya. I join his workshop where I need to take pictures of harbor. Subsequent to that was a project presentation in French Consulate. There were four other participants as well. Wubin gave my works a name and it sounded like...

...MY KALIMAS

Author's note

INTY, Valentine, Wulandari - name of ships
Kalimas - harbor of Surabaya

Article was published in Jawa Pos on 5 of March and 6 of March.

See also...

Story.Part 1 Jawa Pos
Story.Part 2 Jawa Pos
My Kalimas(documenting my world) H.O.B. Gallery
Kalimas, People H.O.B. Gallery
Kalimas, Disco-Ship H.O.B. Gallery
Kalimas, Harbor H.O.B. Gallery

Links

www.last-harbour.com site of Zhuang Wubin
www.jawapos.co.id Jawa Pos

Over endless jungles

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 19:09:00 +0000

Text Alexander Pototskiy
Photo Mark Barlog

- Have you ever hitch-hike* an airplane?
- Yes, we have.

Sounds silly, right? Or maybe unbelievable? Anyway, the thing is I am not trying to say that there is something extraordinary or anyone never done it before. What I am saying is it is quite possible to do such things.
If it is on a right place, a right time and you have a right reason – you really can hitch-hike even a plane!

I will show you how...

* Hitch-hike – use of any kinds of transportation without need to pay for it in the end. Both sides should be mutually agreed with it.
Transportation - car, train, ship, airplane; even cow if she like the idea or maybe your pal if you can travel on his back; anything what can bring you from one point to another.

Black hole on the map

I look at a map. What I see is a huge piece of land lost in Pacific, second biggest island in the world look like a bird. Until now there are areas which have not explored yet. Few years back a group from USA found there “Garden of Eden” - the territory which was isolated for centuries with animals not afraid of human beings.
Long before this island was colonial property of Dutch, British and Germans. When World War II hit Pacific, Japanese was there too. Island was occupied, but after the war ended, part of it was given to Australia. Later Australia claimed their independence. Another part belongs to Indonesia.

Now in 21st century you can see there in cities, people of modern era buy foods at supermarket to put it in refrigerator. From another side you can find in jungles, people of Stone Age went to hunt for some foods to survive. Some people use steel knives in daily life in kitchen, but others just does not have it, neither knives nor kitchen. Someone sleeps in his apartment, but someone else sleeps in crone of tree or in his cave.

Michael Rockefeller, a son of mayor of New York, disappeared on this island in 1961. Perhaps, he was eaten by local tribes or by alligators, but it does not proven true yet. Anyway, his body was not found. Long before this, Miklukho-Maklai, a great Russian ethnologist and a Citizen of the World, spend two years living with other tribes and become good friend of them.

There are tribes wars have place to be and conflicts between government and rebels sometimes happened. There are people fight for power and justice. Other people there fight just because it is tradition of their ancestors. There Asmats, headhunters in past, making unique wood carvings. There are Dani growing sweet potato. There is white man paying amount of green dollars for seeing something he never will see in his freak modern world where he came from.

There is population over 5 millions of people. There are over 500 kinds of birds and around 100 kinds of mammals. There few hundreds of beautiful butterflies. There are around 300 languages and dialects.

If you still does not get what this place is, I will tell you more.

Black small “Africans” inhabit this place. Actually, they are not real Africans, but history once made unforgivable mistake. Spanish gave name of New Guinea to the island, because coast of the island reminds them coast of Guinea which is in Africa. Perhaps, people of New Guinea looks like Africans from first sight too, but if you observe clearly you will spot the differences.

This is New Guinea – the island. This is Papua-New Guinea – independent country. This is Papua – province of Indonesia where we fly whole over it inside small craft which one we ever hitch-hiked.

The reason good enough

‘Where does all roads gone?’ – this is the question a lot of tourists have while staying in middle of nowhere(actually in Papua) with large backpacks and neither large maps. Yes, yes, this we are.

So, where is the road in Papua? Well, It is depends on map you holding in your hands. There can be road from Marauke to Jayapura or from Sorong to Manokwari or even from Nabire to Wamena. Sounds good huh? Forget about it! Really, just forget now! Brand expensive maps have such roads. Cheap Indonesian maps have such roads too. Reality does not have such roads.
Remember: there are NO roads in Papua. I mean the road which is more than 100 km. Papua does not have one.
Remember this and always keep in your mind!
By the way, do not forget to throw away your map. Your map is a joke which nobody like. You can buy new one and put it on the wall when you will come back from Papua.

So, if there are no roads, how to travel around Papua then?
You have few ways:

First, travel by walking. I think you will not like it because territory of Papua have a lots of deep jungles, mountains and swamps with alligators.

Second, travel by passenger ship. You can use ships of Pelni company. Good thing – it is cheap and simple. Problem – the schedules changes all the time, you can go only around coast, long time aboard.

Third, travel by airplane. Good thing – very fast. Problem – very expensive (ticket cost over USD100) and the place where you going must have airport.

Fourth, travel by hitch – hike. I mean to travel with any other kind of plane, without commercial lines. Good things – free and very exciting. Problem – success depends on how you do it.

Fifth, mixture of all ways. Good thing – it is most rational.

Anyway, I want to talk about fourth way – hitch-hike a plane. I mentioned before that you need three important elements to do it: a right place, a right time and a right reason.

Well, Barlog and I have a right reason while sitting in Nabire as we should be in Jayapura to extend our almost expired visas. From time to time our insanity and stupidity make us feel that we on the edge where nowhere to go else. Strange, but it is another ordinary day of our lives. Honestly, when it is nowhere else to go, this is the easiest moment to find a way out. Problem was we do not have enough money to buy ticket for passenger plane and we do not have enough of time to use Pelni. Soon after we realize that, such situation forced us to think about hitch-hike a plane.

If there is no choice – this is the reason good enough to try, the right reason to try. You may believe in success or you may not believe in it, but you still will go ahead with it because you do not have any other way out.

But what is about the right place and the right time?

Missioners

Long before, missioners are quite tough guys who came to Papua with their religion. They made their way through deep jungles and high mountains. Their trips definitely were not easy. Some of these folks just lost there or died of starvation. Other folks were killed or eaten by aborigines who simply do not want to accept white man’s religion. Now things are different: missioners sit in their office and not dare to enter jungles even for awhile. They do not have such courage anymore. No one have and no one needs, because man can use airplane in Papua to reach places they want.

Johan the teacher from Jesuit school where we have been staying in Nabire, was one of the missioners. He takes care of guys, the papuans who came far away from mountains holding prehistoric weapons in their hands. Those guys never seen rice before, didn’t use any close besides traditional one and they thought that it is normal to grab woman and bring them to their village. Now they wear jeans and know how to speak English. Johan teaches them. He making his own research and writing book about how local tribes adopt to modern world. It was interesting to listen to Johan, but unfortunately it did not last long. He infected with malaria and need to fly to Timika (a big city in Papua) to get some medical help. This is how things go here. If you are sick, you need hospital which can be miles and miles away. Also if you suddenly need extreme help, you can have one if you can have a flight. That is what missioners do. They provide domestic flight, because Jakarta does not do much here except war conflicts, mining business, huge gap between Muslim and Christian communities. Missioners do not do any business.

So this is the thing: if there are a lot of flights except commercial flight, this is the right place I am talking about. People there can simply accept the idea of hitch-hike. One of those places is definitely Papua. That is why we try.

So, what is it about the right time then?

Smooth things

Small aircraft stay in front of MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship) office. Perhaps, airplane does not seem to fly soon: engine section is open and there is still some work to be done.
Matt, American guy who worked there, listen to our story carefully and wished to help us. Why? Because to make things work, we explain to him everything without any lie. Only the truth about why we ask MAF to help us. You should do the same.

They do have planes, but too bad they do not have enough pilots. Not many people want to handle aircraft over those mountains in Papua.

'What are you doing here?' – we ask him
'I really love planes. I know how to fly, but I prefer to repair it than be in a skies. And of course Jesus want me to be here,' – that was what Matt said.

You should be ready for such things to happen. You try one craft or office – can be failure. Then you go to try another…and another…and another, until you find one. There can be a lot of reasons why you failed except people do not want to help you. What you should do is to keep trying. Finally, you will be success if you have good patience.

So, we check MAF. Later on we check some other offices and in the end of the day left only one organization – AMA.

We came to airfield where their plane just landed. We talked directly to the pilot, then to manager and then to the pilot again. Our patience gave us some results. They said we must come tomorrow and we are able to fly with them to Jayapura!

Again, what is the right time? The right time is when you have good luck. That is all.

The plane what we took have two free places inside. If we not take it, no one else will take it. This is reason why AMA allows us to fly with them. Things go smoothly for us.
That is how we hitch a plane and first plane is same like first woman – never can be forgotten. Of course I am not talking about big passengers Boeings, I am talking about little crafts which is shaking like in hell.

It was Pilatus Porter.
It was few hours flight over Papua, over endless jungles, over something we ever dream to see…

Pilatus Porter on background.

Picture was taken right after we arrived at airport of Sentani.

Author's note

A lot of people done it before, a lot of people wrote about it too.
Question is WHAT FOR?

I wrote it not because I want to show you how to save your travel money or how to stay in a budget.
I wrote it because I want to share my experience with you and I hope you will use it when you really need it.

By the way, please, don not try to hitch-hike Boeing in international airport. It will be silly, believe me. Some people tried...

See also...

Flying Machines H.O.B. GALLERY

Links

www.mkh1.ya.ru Barlog's photo collection
www.maf.org MAF in Papua
www.wikipedia.org Miklukho-Maklay in Wikipedia

The Red Dot of Similajau

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Mon, 09 Feb 2009 02:00:00 +0000

Red - very dangerous
Yellow - dangerous
Green – safe, no lifeguard on duty

Upon arrival, there was a wooden display board
indication of three different levels of sea condition.
Right at this moment, even without the red alert sign,
it does not need a genius to figure out that water
surface which is 30 meter in front of me potentially
poses threat to any living soul. Fast muddy waves
strike on sharp riffs making big splashes and then
white foam gently reach the coastline.
Whatever things come with flow, not just damaged,
but totally destroyed. You should be insane to swim
there. Someone who indicates a red dot on the
safety board today was fully aware of the sea.

It is beginning of January, a monsoon season. Ocean
never will be calm. It is in the mood for more
excitement. In April when season ends, turtles
would come here to Similajau National Park. It is
an ideal place for them to lay their eggs. The
park by itself is a chain of sandy beaches with
sometimes rising from ground rocky headlands
and crossing fresh water streams. Hopefully,
you can hike all the way there without seeing anybody.
Thirty kilometers of pure and untouched coastline
is all yours. Take it!

Park is not far away from Bintulu (Sarawak, Borneo)

Wildlife

Introduction to wildlife of this area can be found in a small room at HQ. Yellow pages, withered photos and dust shows that room is far away from being renewed. Similajau was established in 1976 aiming to provide conservation zone for unique geographical features of the coast and to protect the flora and fauna.

Not much was change since then. Park infrastructure had forbidden condition and looks like not a lot of founds flowing there. The room which I explored is a good proof of it.

"Similajau have recorded 24 species of mammals including civet cats, wild boar, squirrels, gibbons and macaques. Sometimes on a beach you can spot Belangkas - descendant of the trilobites that populated the seas 400 years ago. Other lucky day, you can see salt water crocodiles resting near the river. Sharks sometimes pay a visit to shallow water. Bird watchers will call this a paradise as it is a habitat for more than 100 species of birds in this national park," - all this information you will get from tourist booklet. If you need to find out what is real, you can check out the area by yourself. It is not so easy to catch sight of wildlife, but be patience and maybe you will have more luck than me.

Turtle Beaches

As you can guess from the name, this is the place where turtles come to lay their eggs. But even without the purpose to see that, those beaches still is a must visit. Its can take up to 3-4 hours to reach the beaches from the HQ. What you can see is rocky headlands looks like shield of giant turtle. When waves strike it, some amount of water would trap and causes the circulation within the uniquely formed rocks. I would consider that is a rare sight.

Trails

The map provided by Sarawak Forestry shows it would need 6 km and 7 km traveling to Turtle Beach 1 and Turtle Beach 2 respectively, if departure from the HQ. Further north, trail would lead you to Golden Beach. There is clear indication of red paint on trees to help you not to lose your path. There were wooden bridges and stairs along the way too. Fallen branches sometimes poses problem for trekking. The trail is quite easy even for beginners. Besides, the trail going through the jungles almost nears the coast. The mixture of the sounds of sea and forest giving you pleasure of inner calm and serenity. Giving me an advantage of one step closer to the nature.

Tips

1.There is camp site near HQ. Also you can order some food. But you can’t make open fire in jungles or beach. So, if you plan to overnight away from HQ, it will be easier if you bring some ready food with you.

2.It is preferably to start hiking in the morning because important to come back before sunset. Always bring a flash light with you because after dawn you can’t see trail without it.

3.If there seems to be a storm is coming, do not try to hike along the coast. Go only through jungles because during storming there will not be any ground anymore on a coast and you will be trap in middle of nowhere.

4.Although I did not seen any crocodiles, but it is better not to come close to muddy water streams at any point of time.

5.After Similajau National Park exploration, you can make your way to Niah Caves – another popular spot in Sarawak. The journey will takes around 200 km.

Author's note

Date of visit - January 2009

See also...

Turtle Shield H.O.B. GALLERY

Links

www.forestry.sarawak.gov.my Forest Department Sarawak
www.about-malaysia.com Malaysia Travel Information Guide

Motosikal Diary: Batang Ai

noreply@blogger.com (Alexander Pototskiy) — Mon, 02 Feb 2009 15:52:00 +0000

I have seen...

...what man creates here in Malaysia.
I have stand in front of Petronas Twin Towers and admired how it
touches skies in Kuala Lumpur. I have walked around Historical
Town in Malacca and see things from man past. I have smelled
the flavors of pure green tea plantations in Cameron Highlands
and tasted serenity of calm atmosphere.

All of those are made by man, but here in Sarawak man created
something much more unbelievable. Man created a huge
water surface - giant lake between hills that looks perfectly
natural. In 1985, a dam was completed and now
Batang Ai is one of the most fascinating scenery in Borneo.

I was there with a small production team for
a television documentary program called
'Motosikal'.
For more info click here

First try

"I tell you, it is beautiful!
Believe me, Alex*. You even
can find Hilton Resort in
the middle of jungles
there!" - Jackson* keeps
telling me.

The best way of all is to
explore it. Hence,
we formed two groups -
the production team
jumps into Toyota Hilux,
Boy* and I use
a motorcycle. The trip
was short, only 15
kilometers and
surprisingly fine condition
of the road we traveled. When we arrived at the destination, we were very attracted by how magnificent of the lake is. Inside, I was shouting:

"It is so damn beautiful!"

It was one of those moments, beyond words, felt so deeply from
the bottom of my heart.

Jackson was right, as no one else. No doubt, Batang Ai truly is one amazing landscape and I barely believe that men are capable of creating it! As we standing near the shore of the lake, vividly it would reflect its dark green color in nature. Deep underneath the surface, it crosses path with the sunlight, the lake would give us another magical color of dark blue. Staring at it, it seems like Batang Ai is inviting us to release ourselves and enjoy its warm water. Unfortunately, time is the luxury that we do not have.

Everyone seems to know what to do at that time. Chang* starts preparing equipments. Felix* is too occupied making boat arrangement. Jackson is finding the spot to park the car.
Meanwhile, Boy and I wait patiently for them getting ready.Our schedule of today is to have shooting of the lake on a boat ride.

When everything almost ready, unfortunately, problems come. The boatman can not give us a ride and he need to leave immediately because his relative suddenly passed away. After awhile is started to rain. I noticed Chang is packicng his camera and I realized we have to leave. Felix made a decision we will come back the next day.

Boat ride

Next day we ride on a not very stable long boat. So, we are not able to move around much. All of us, including a local guide, have to sit still. The speed of the boat was rather fast and quite often we experienced water splashes. I was worried about my small pocket camera getting wet but Chang, the man with the giant camera is going through more challenging time than me. I admired him that he has such great patience of take good care his own belongings because I do not, the camera fell down on the boat, broken eventually.

“It can take 24 hours to make a circle around this lake” our guide, an Iban, told us that.

The lake is really huge in scale. At times, I would though we have reached the end of it but in actual fact I was wrong. Even after few hours of trip, I was not sure where are we. Anyway, it is better to be in the middle than on the edge, right?

We glide through the surface of the lake here and there; we took some shoot on the dam and the view from the boat. We had a lot of fun and we made it a show. It maybe a work for the production team but for me it was an adventure.

As results of trip - one broken camera(mine), two times at lake(planned only one), three injured toes(only mine), four sunburn faces(except Felix), five tired bodies(everyone), but still fresh souls.

Job is done.

Author's note

Felix - producer
Boy(Danny Koo) - host
Jackson - assistant producer
Chang - cameraman
Alex(me) - guest

Cover picture - Danny with helmet

See also...

Dark Surface H.O.B. GALLERY
Motosikal 2.0 ver H.O.B. GALLERY

Links

www.astro.com.my/motosikal Motosikal at ASTRO