Hola Jalapeño

Cranberry-Lime Cookies

2012-01-05T10:51:00.000-06:00

As a child my favorite holiday book was Cranberry Christmas by Wende and Harry Devlin. I loved to imagine myself in this quaint New England town, ice skating and making sea shell ornaments with Mr. Whiskers, the crotchety old sea captain with a heart of gold.

At the library this holiday season I spotted Cranberry Christmas and immediately swapped it for the horrendous Scooby Doo book my 'lil one wanted to check out. She was a bit bummed when we got home to find out we somehow forgot to bring Scooby Doo and the Wacky Waterpark home, but quickly brightened when I told her we could make cookies instead.

In the book, Maggie (Mr. Whisker's neighbor across the bog) makes her favorite cranberry cookies and they give the recipe at the end of the book so you can make them at home. Well, truth be told, that recipe is pretty bad—don't make it. But the idea of fresh cranberry cookies is splendid, and worthy of a decent recipe.

I love the combination of cranberry and lime so I decided to add some lime zest and juice to the mix, making what turned out to be the Cosmopolitan of cookies. They are soft, chewy and have a pleasant sweet-tart balance. The green and red also makes them fantastically seasonal...... I'm so clever.

Cranberry-Lime Cookies
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Makes 4 dozen cookies

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup vegetable shortening
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 large eggs
zest and juice of 2 limes
2 cups fresh cranberries, chopped

1. Heat oven to 350°F. Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine.

2. Combine shortening and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer and beat on medium speed until fluffy, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, letting the first incorporate fully before adding the next. Stop mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add lime zest and juice and beat until smooth.

3. Add flour mixture to the mixing bowl. Start mixer on low, then gradually increase speed until completely incorporated. Add cranberries and continue mixing until incorporated.

4. Scoop into tablespoon-sized mounds and place on an ungreased baking sheet, about an inch apart. Bake until golden brown on the bottom, about 12-15 minutes.

Orange-Ricotta Rolls

2011-12-23T16:41:00.001-06:00

While The Professor was in graduate school we lived in the snowy, ski-obsessed enclave of Bozeman, Montana. There was a surprisingly amazing Korean restaurant, a fantastic bakery, and a little shop in a rundown strip mall near the college that was only open on Saturday and Sunday morning and only sold two things: sticky buns and orange rolls.

We lived there over a year before I discovered it and I still beat myself up for that year devoid of warm, gooey sweet rolls. The decor was Country Kitchen meets a 12-year-old boys bedroom—there were equal amounts of red checkered linen and Homer Simpson figurines. The owner and sole employee was a husky middle-aged man donned in a puffy chef's hat and an apron you would not be surprised to find your grandmother wearing.

He was kind, always covered in flour and one hell of a baker. The gossip around town was that he moved to Bozeman from some warmer, sunnier locale—Las Vegas, Las Angeles—I don't remember and supported his baking habit by selling gay adult sex toys online.

Well, all I have to say to that is Bravo! Because those rolls were outstanding. I loved the ooey-gooey sticky buns, but the orange rolls were my favorite. They were stuffed to the gills with ricotta cheese and slathered with buttery frosting.

Dreaming of these rolls just wouldn't suffice so I've come up with my own version and, well—wow! Try them, I'm not going to tell you again.

These are pretty messy to assemble, but you can always spoon the filling that escapes back into the rolls after you cut them. They are fancy brunch perfect because they can be assembled a day ahead and refrigerated, just pull them out of the refrigerator an hour before you plan on baking them. You can also assemble them and freeze them for up to a month. Defrost them overnight in the refrigerator, then let them sit in a warm spot for an hour before you bake them.

Orange-Ricotta Rolls
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Makes 12 rolls

For the dough:
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup water
1 (1/4-ounce) package active dry yeast
3 large eggs
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
3 to 4 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup unsalted butter, room temperature and cut into small pieces

For the filling:
1 (15-ounce) container whole milk ricotta
2 tablespoons orange zest (from 2 oranges)
1/4 cup fresh squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup granulated sugar

For the frosting:
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
Juice and zest of 1 orange
2 to 3 cups powdered sugar

For the dough:
1. Coat a large bowl with butter and set aside. Combine milk and water in a small saucepan and heat to 100°F to 115°F over low heat. Once mixture is warm transfer to a bowl of a stand mixer and sprinkle yeast over the top. Set aside until mixture bubbles, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add eggs, sugar, and salt and whisk until evenly combined.

2. Add 3 cups of flour and mix on low speed with the dough hook attachment. Once flour is completely incorporated, turn mixer off and test to see if you need more flour. Dough should be soft, slightly sticky, and not at all dry. If it is so sticky that it is hard to get it off your fingers, add more flour 1/4 cup at a time, until you reach the right consistency.

3. Increase speed to medium and begin adding butter, piece by piece, letting the first piece disappear into the dough before adding the next, mixing about 10 minutes total.

4. Transfer dough to prepared bowl and turn to coat in butter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place until dough doubles in size, anywhere from 2 to 4 hours depending of the warmth of your kitchen.

5. Punch dough down, cover, and let rise again until doubled, another hour or so.

For the filling:
1. Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl and whisk until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

To assemble:
1. Grease to 8-inch cake pans and set aside. Transfer dough to a lightly floured work surface and sprinkle with more flour. Roll dough into a 14-x-14-inch square. Spread filling evenly over dough, leaving an inch border around the exterior.

2. Starting at the edge closest to you, roll dough into a cylindrical shape. You will want to lift the dough up over the filling as you roll to prevent all the filling from gushing out the top. Fold the last 3 inches of dough up over the top to keep the filling from spilling out. Stretch out the final roll to create an even cylinder without bulky spots.

3. Starting with the end that seems to have the most filling, cut 12 rolls with a sharp knife. If some of the filling squeezes out that's okay, you can gently pushes it into the crevices of the rolls after you put them in the pan.

4. Place 1 roll in the center of each cake pan. Evenly space 5 rolls around the center roll. Spoon any filling that spilled out back into the rolls. (At this point you can cover the pans with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight, or place in freezer bags and freeze for up to 1 month.)

5. If baking immediately, heat oven to 350°F and arrange rack in middle. Set rolls, uncovered, in a warm place to rise for 40 minutes. Bake rolls until puffed and golden brown on top, about 25-35 minutes.

6. While rolls bake, place frosting ingredients in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Start mixer on low then once all ingredients are incorporated increase speed to medium and beat until fluffy.

7. Remove rolls from oven and let cool slightly. Spread frosting over the top and serve.

Chard and Black Rice Soup

2011-12-17T14:14:00.000-06:00

This recipe is a holdover from my chard binge this summer. It's kind of a funky shade of green, like the shade your romp room carpet would've been in 1975, but nonetheless muy delicioso.

It is not dairy-free, or vegetarian, or vegan. Three things it could be should you wish to eliminate the milk and butter, substitute vegetable stock, or eliminate the milk and butter and substitute vegetable stock. It would still be good in all those instances, but this is how I liked it best.

This is a good weeknight soup to have when your weekends are slammed with calorie-laden Christmas parties and you're feeling more like Santa Claus and less like Hanukkah Harry (I'm guessing he's a bit slimmer). It's not comfort-food, but feel good food, especially when it is cold and snowy outside, which I am pleased to announce that is one thing it is not here in North Dakota.

I love the texture and flavor of black rice, but you could use barley, brown rice, or farro. Just choose a grain that has some bite and doesn't easily get soft and soggy.

Chard and Black Rice Soup
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Makes 8 servings

1 cup uncooked black rice
2 large bunches swiss chard
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 leeks, white and light green parts only, thoroughly washed and dried
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup flour
6 cups chicken stock, or low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups milk

1. Bring a medium saucepan of heavily salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Rinse rice and add to boiling water. Cook until rice is slightly underdone, drain, rinse under cold water until cool and set aside.

2. Remove chard leaves from the stem. Wash stems and leaves thoroughly. Chop each and set aside, keeping them separated.

3. Heat butter and oil in a large stock pot over medium-high heat. Once butter is melted add leeks, celery, and chard stems. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened. Add garlic and cook another minute. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly until the flour smells like cooked pie crust. Slowly add chicken stock, stirring continuously, then add chard leaves.

4. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes. Puree with a stick blender or in batches in a blender. Stir in milk and cooked rice and return to a simmer. Taste and add more salt and pepper as needed. Serve.

Cranberry-Walnut Jell-O Salad

2011-12-01T15:47:00.000-06:00

Growing up, our holiday dinners consisted of Butterball turkey "roasted" in a bag, green bean casserole held together with bountiful amounts of condensed soup and Jell-O "salads".

I'm not going to lie and say there isn't the occasion that I don't crave some of that nostalgic food. I could make it sound cool and call it retro, but that would be deceitful. I don't make this stuff every once-in-a-while because I'm trying to be hip in an old school, supper club kinda way. I make it because I actually like some of these dishes and they bring back memories of helping my Grandma frost orange cookies and divvy up ice in the fancy, colored crystal water glasses reserved for special occasions.

I spoke to my Grandma last week, the day before Thanksgiving, and told her I made her cranberry recipe with the pineapple and walnuts. She said—Oh, I remember that one, I haven't made it in so long. They just don't make salads like that anymore.

I wanted to clear up with her that it wasn't exactly a salad, but in her mind it most certainly is, and further more, she's tired of all those froufrou salads with big leaves of bitter lettuce and hard to digest raw onions.

So if this holiday you are pining for a bit of the past I highly recommend this Jell-O salad. It has great texture, not too sweet, and all held together by wonderfully supple gelatin. If you are still feeling insecure about serving such a dish, pour it into a pretty mold and call it Gelée, everything sounds better in French.

Cranberry-Walnut Jell-O Salad
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Makes 6 servings

1 1/2 cups cranberries, rinsed
1/2 medium orange, quartered
3 ounce box cherry Jell-O
1 cup boiling water
8 ounce can crushed pineapple
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped walnuts

1. Combine cranberries and orange (rind and all) in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped.

2. In a medium heat-proof bowl, dissolve Jell-O in the boiling water. Add cranberry mixture and stir to combine. Refrigerate until partially set, about an hour.

3. Stir in pineapple with its juices, celery and walnuts. Pour into a mold or 8-inch square dish and refrigerate until set, about 3 hours more.

4. To unmold the gelatin, run a butter knife around the edge of the mold, then dip in enough hot water to come about three-quarters of the way up the sides for about 10 seconds. Wet the plate or tray you will be serving it on (this will help slide it into place) and place the plate on top of the mold. Invert the mold and shake gently to loosen. Slide gelatin where you want it on the plate and serve.

Mom's Pumpkin Pie

2011-11-27T13:11:00.000-06:00

Yes, yes, I know I missed the Thanksgiving deadline with this one, but isn't there some Christmas song that talks about passing around the coffee and the pumpkin pie? And that's coming up, right? So make this for Christmas instead, or your grandma's birthday (you know pumpkin pie is her favorite), or as a reward for making it through the Thanksgiving holiday without killing any of your relatives. Or just make it because it is freakin' awesome.

Last year I went all homesteader and cooked an entire pumpkin and pureed it.

But I've got to say I was a little disappointed. It wasn't very pumpkiny and a little watery to boot. I'm willing to be convinced otherwise, but I think this is one instance where I prefer the canned over fresh.

This is my Mom's recipe and I always make it in my Grandma's pie plate.

This pie has all the requisite spices, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves, plus rich half-and-half that makes it super silky and creamy. Simple, delicious, perfect.

Mom's Pumpkin Pie
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Makes 1 (9-inch) pie

For the crust:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 stick cold unsalted butter, cubed
4-6 tablespoons ice water
1 large egg, beaten

For the filling:
1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree
1 cup half-and-half
3 large eggs
1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
1/3 cup granulated sugar
Seeds from 1 vanilla bean, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
pinch ground cloves

Whipped Cream for serving

For the crust:

1. Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Add butter pieces and toss to coat in flour. Using a pastry cutter, cut butter into flour until the pieces are the size of small peas.

2. Sprinkle 4 tablespoons of ice water over flour mixture then use your hands to moisten the flour. Let the flour fall through your fingers, but avoid overly squeezing or pressing too hard. Gently squeeze a handful of dough, if it crumbles apart and does not hold together add a couple more tablespoons ice water and gently toss to moisten.

3. Squeeze again, if dough easily holds together, gather all in a ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Press down to create a flat disk and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

4. Heat oven to 425°F and arrange a rack in the bottom of the oven. Place a baking sheet in the oven while it is heating. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8-inch thick. Line a 9-inch pie plate with the dough and trim off excess, leaving a 1-inch border. Decoratively pinch edges together and prick all over with a fork.

5. Line crust with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Place on the hot baking sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes or until golden on the edges. Remove parchment paper and beans and brush with beaten egg. Continue baking until bottom is lightly golden, about 5-10 more minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack to cool slightly and turn oven down to 350°F.

For the filling:

1. Combine all filling ingredients in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Place crust back onto the baking sheet and pour filling into pie crust. Bake for 50-60 minutes or until just set and slightly puffed on the edges.

2. Cool on a rack for at least 3 hours before serving. Can be made a day in advanced; let cool completely, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Can be served cold, or room temperature with whipped cream.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Ginger and Scallions

2011-11-22T21:46:00.000-06:00

I am not one to pass up the candied sweet potatoes at Thanksgiving. Especially if they are made with fresh sweet potatoes and the marshmallows on top are all toasted and crisp. But every year I try to make as many things at my spread dairy-free and olive oil only goes so far.

Here's the other reason I make these on Thanksgiving....my husband. I can't tell you the thrill he gets out of seeing loads of thinly sliced garlic and jalapeños. What can I say, he loves condiments. You know when you go to a Vietnamese restaurant and they bring you the big bowl full of bean sprouts and Thai basil and mint? That right there is like a little slice of Shangri-la for my husband.

Last Thanksgiving he passed by the kitchen and noticed the pile of aromatics stacking up, Is that for me? He asked. Yes darling, Happy Thanksgiving.

If you are making these for Thanksgiving and are running out of oven space you can boil the sweet potatoes in heavily-salted water instead of roasting them.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Ginger and Scallions
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Adapted from Saveur Magazine

Makes 6-8 servings

4 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into thick slices
6 tablespoons olive oil
8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
8 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 jalapeños, seeded and thinly sliced
4 large shallots, thinly sliced
1 (3-inch) piece ginger, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks

1. Heat oven to 450°F. Toss sweet potatoes with 3 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Spread in an even layer on a baking sheet and roast until tender.

2. Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Cook until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover and continue cooking until ginger is soft, about 15-20 minutes more.

3. Remove sweet potatoes from oven, toss with garlic mixture and serve.

Bay-Brined Roasted Turkey

2011-11-20T21:57:00.000-06:00

The first turkey I ever roasted was for my brother and his girlfriend in their cookie-cutter apartment in Seattle. I was two or three years into college and had spent the summer before interning in Napa Valley, so I knew everything there is to know about cooking, end of story.

Just kidding, there's more....

I don't specifically remember how we brined the turkey, or for how long, but it came out lookin' good. I was very pleased with myself and proceeded to make gravy from the pan drippings (I'd seen my grandmother do this, so obviously this is what you do). As an aside, I'd also seen my grandmother "roast" many turkeys in a plastic bag so....

That gravy was so salty, but for some reason we ate it anyway. Shortly after the meal, my brother was sprawled out on the couch, moaning in a way that didn't indicate happiness. He was the kind of uncomfortable a pair of stretchy pants couldn't cure.

And this, my friends, is what Thanksgiving is all about—not brining your relatives with salty gravy, but those kitchen gaffes that can be retold in years to come. I'll save the one about cooking a 26-pound turkey in an apartment-sized electric oven with the bottom element burnt out for another time.

Bay-Brined Roasted Turkey
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Adapted from Martha Stewart Living

Makes 12-14 servings

2/3 cup kosher salt
14 dried bay leaves, 10 crushed, 4 left whole
1 whole fresh, or thawed frozen turkey (22 to 24 pounds), neck and giblets removed
3/4 cup olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
freshly ground black pepper

1. Combine kosher salt and crushed bay leaves in a small bowl. Rinse inside and outside of turkey and pat dry with paper towels. Rub 2 tablespoons salt mixture evenly inside turkey cavity, 2 tablespoons on each leg, 1 1/2 tablespoons on each wing, and 2 tablespoons on each breast. Set turkey on a baking sheet lined with a rack and refrigerate, uncovered, for 48 hours.

2. Remove turkey from refrigerator 1 hour before roasting. Combine 1/2 cup olive oil, wine and whole bay leaves in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and set aside.

3. Heat oven to 425°F and arrange rack in the lowest position. Rinse turkey and pat dry with paper towels. Rub remaining olive oil all over turkey and season with black pepper on all sides and inside the cavity. Place turkey in a rack set over a roasting pan and tie legs together with twine.

4. Place turkey, legs first into the oven. Roast for 30 minutes, then baste with wine mixture. Reduce temperature to 350°F, rotate pan and return to oven. Continue rotating pan and basting every 30 minutes, for 2 1/2 hours or until a thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh without touching any bone reads 165°F.

5. Remove from oven, cover with foil and let sit 30 minutes before carving.

Mixed Greens with Pomegranates and Pickled Shallots

2011-11-18T21:46:00.000-06:00

Now this is my Thanksgiving salad. I make it every year at Thanksgiving and it seems no other time, which is ridiculous because it's so darn fantastic. It is tart and bright and has tons of texture which is needed in what can sometimes be a monotonous and overly rich meal.

There are some steps involved. You will need to pluck the pomegranate seeds from their paper-thin membranes. You can cheat and buy the unleashed seeds, but this becomes a fantastic project for little hands to do while you are elbow deep in turkey gizzards.

Then there's the pickling of shallots and making the dressing.

And of course, segmenting the orange.

But all this can be done up to 3 or 4 days in advance, so all you need to do on Turkey Day is toss, toss, serve.

Mixed Greens with Pomegranates and Pickled Shallots
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Makes 8-10 servings

2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
1/3 cup white balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 orange
1 pound mixed greens, washed and thoroughly dried
1/2 cup pomegranate seeds

1. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the shallots and blanch until tender, about 30 seconds. Drain and run the shallots under cold water until cool. Place shallots in a small heat-proof bowl and set aside.

2. Combine vinegar, salt, and sugar in the same saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Pour boiling liquid over shallots and let sit at room temperature until cool. Drain shallots into a strainer set over a medium bowl; set shallots aside. Add mustard and a little black pepper to the pickling liquid and stir to combine. While whisking, slowly add olive oil until dressing is emulsified.

3. Cut orange into segments by slicing off the top and bottom of the orange. Then with the orange laying flat on the cutting board, remove the peel by following the curve of the orange with a pairing knife, cutting downward to remove all the peel and white pith. Then slice between the membranes to release the orange segments. Squeeze the juice from the membranes over the bowl of dressing and stir to combine. Slice each segment in half, or thirds if really large.

4. Combine greens, pomegranates, orange segments and pickled shallots in a large salad bowl. Drizzle about 1/3 of the dressing over the top and toss to combine. Add more dressing and salt and pepper as needed.

Buttercup Squash and Spinach Salad

2011-11-15T21:53:00.000-06:00

For my Favorite Thanksgiving Recipes post numero three.... something green and squashy.

With all the gluttony that Thanksgiving entails, it shouldn't be an all out carbfest. Something green is always welcome. Green beans are nice, and Brussels sprouts have been featured on every gourmand's Thanksgiving table since about 2002, but I like a good salad. Salads are crisp and crunchy and offer a nice textural contrast to the soft mashed potatoes, stuffing, and yams.

I made this salad last night to have with a pork tenderloin and we had quite a bit leftover. Today was my daughter's turn to bring a snack to preschool and The Professor suggested I send along the leftover salad. I was picturing my sweet-faced little girl handing over this Tupperware filled with wilted day-old salad. I was tempted to do it, just to see the look on the teacher's face. How priceless would that conversation be:

Teacher: Oh thank you, what'd you bring?

Me: Leftover salad.

I imagine silence is what would come next.

Anyway, this salad is truly delicious (the first day, not the second). If you slice the squash super thin, it cooks in mere minutes under the broiler and gets all toasty and crisped. A mandolin is very helpful in getting the squash thin enough.

You could add some cheese too if you want, ricotta salata, feta or shaved Parmesan would all be good. As would some toasted pine nuts, or pumpkin seeds, but then this salad would be a meal unto itself and not so much a side dish.

The saba adds a nice sweet and sour note, but it's completely optional or you could drizzle regular balsamic instead, although that would be a lot more sour and not so sweet, up to you.

Buttercup Squash and Spinach Salad
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Makes 6 servings

2 pounds buttercup or butternut squash, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 ounces chopped bacon
2 shallots, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
9 ounces spinach, washed, dried and tough stems removed
Saba, for drizzling (optional)

1. Heat broiler and arrange rack in middle. Place squash in a single layer on a baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat and arrange in a single layer again. Place squash under the broiler until browned and tender, 4-5 minutes. Set aside.

2. Place bacon in a medium frying pan and cook over medium heat until browned and crisp, about 10 minutes. Transfer bacon to a paper towel-lined plate.

3. Add shallots to the bacon grease in the pan, season with salt and pepper and cook over medium heat until browned. Add vinegar and scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan.

4. Combine spinach, bacon, and squash in a large bowl. Pour shallot mixture over the top and toss to combine. Season with more salt and pepper as needed. Drizzle a little saba over the top if desired and serve.

Whiskey Cream Gravy

2011-11-12T11:11:00.000-06:00

So in continuation with our Thanksgiving theme, I bring you..dum, dum, dum.....the gravy.

A good gravy is the superhero of Thanksgiving. If you are planning a potluck Thanksgiving you want to make sure the best cook of the bunch is making the gravy, because a well-seasoned, delicious gravy will save all lackluster dishes.

Overcooked the turkey? Oh well, a little gravy over the top and they'll never know.

Aunt Marge is on a diet and decided to omit the salt and butter from the mashed potatoes? The gravy will pick up the slack.

The pumpkin pie isn't cooked all the way through? Okay, gravy can't help that, just eat the parts closest to the edge and dump the rest.

I love this whiskey and cream infused gravy not only because it has whiskey and cream, but because it is really hard to mess up and can be made without the cumbersome steps of whisking flour into a roasting pan or separating the fat from the pan drippings. Not to mention you can make it completely in advance, like 2 days in advance people.

You get some turkey essence from browning the neck and giblets.

Then in the same pot, brown your veggies (don't forget to season them!)

Then after you've added your stock and herbs, you add the magic.

If you're worried about giving alcohol to little kids you can add the entire whiskey amount all at once instead of saving some for the very end. The alcohol will cook out and even if it doesn't cook all the way out, is it really a terrible thing to have all small children pass out after the meal is over? That's what we call quiet time in our house.

Even if you get a few lumps in this gravy you strain it all before serving so who cares? Easy right?

If you do make it in advance, just strain it, let it cool, then cover and refrigerate. When you are ready to serve, pour into a medium saucepan, add the remaining whiskey and cream and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Whiskey Cream Gravy
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Adapted from CHOW.com

Makes 8 servings

Reserved neck and giblets from your turkey
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 quart turkey or chicken stock or low-sodium broth
1/2 cup whiskey
1 Bay leaf
4 fresh sage leaves
1/3 cup heavy cream

1. Pat turkey neck and giblets dry with paper towels. Season with salt and pepper and coat with 1 tablespoon flour.

2. Heat half the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Place neck and giblet in the pan and brown on all sides. Transfer to a plate and pour out any excess oil. Return pan to the heat and add remaining oil. Add onion, celery and carrots and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally until vegetables are softened and browned.

3. Sprinkle remaining flour over vegetables. Cook, stirring frequently until flour is lightly toasted. Slowly pour in chicken broth, stirring constantly, then remove from heat. Add 1/4 cup whiskey, bay leaf, and sage leaves then return to heat. Add neck and giblets and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered for 30 minutes or until reduced and thickened.

4. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into medium saucepan. Stir in cream and remaining whiskey, then return to stove over low heat to warm. Season with salt and pepper.

Pearl Onion and Pumpkin Seed Stuffing

2011-11-10T22:15:00.000-06:00

Okay, straight-away, who out there is thinking about Thanksgiving?

Let me hear ya say Ho!

You know I am, it's really something I think about all year long. I'm not even having a Thanksgiving dinner this year and I'm still thinking about what I'd make.

I've been fantasizing about it since way before Halloween, picturing this fantastic party with tons of awesome people who like (and can) eat tons of delicious food. The turkey, the gravy, the mashed potatoes, the cranberry sauce, some lovely other little side dishes, the stuffing, the stuffing.

But I'll have to wait another year for that Thanksgiving. This year it will me, The Professor (who can't eat anything remotely Thanksgivingy) and my 'lil one (who won't eat anything remotely Thanksgivingy).

To compensate, I've decided to make all the things I love over the course of this month, so I can share them with you. So what if I'm the only one who will eat them, I'm going to make that sacrifice for my dear readers and the good standing of this blog. I'm dedicated.

I'm starting off with one of my favorite, only-make-it-once-a-year-at-Thanksgiving foods...stuffing. "We always called it dressing," I'm hearing my 89-year-old grandmother say. She always made the dressing..er.. stuffing in our family and on the phone last night she told me she was to bring it to my Aunt's house again this year. So she asks me, "How do I make the dressing again?"

So I tell her, it's really very simple Grams. First you start by sautéing some sweet pearl onions, celery, and garlic.

Then chop up some parsley and sage.

Then toss it all in a bowl with some day-old bread and chicken broth and bake it. I didn't mention anything about the roasted pumpkin seeds salvaged from my Jack-O'lantern, she would've just scoffed at that.

This version is dairy-free, but if you are feeling indulgent you can substitute a stick of butter for the olive oil and sprinkle another few tablespoons of cubed butter over the top of the stuffing before baking.

Pearl Onion and Pumpkin Seed Stuffing
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Makes 10-12 servings

1 (1-pound) loaf crusty bread, cut into 1-inch dice
1/4 cup olive oil
10 ounces pearl onions, peeled and quartered
3 stalks celery, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 quart chicken stock or low-sodium broth
1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh sage
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1 cup roasted pumpkin seeds

1. Spread bread out in a single layer on a baking sheet and let dry overnight.

2. Heat oven to 375°F and grease a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add onions, celery, and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are just starting to brown. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil.

3. Meanwhile combine bread, sage, parsley, and pumpkin seeds in a large bowl. Remove onion mixture from the heat and pour over bread mixture. Stir to combine, add more salt and pepper as needed, and transfer to prepared baking dish. Cover with foil and bake for 25 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake for 15-20 minutes more or until toasted and brown on top.

Green Tomato Chili

2011-10-27T22:15:00.001-05:00

The end is near, I saw my breath when I stepped outside this morning and although we haven't seen any, Meteorologist Hutch Johnson has been throwing the s-word around for a few days now. I noticed they had a blizzard in Denver yesterday.

At least my 'lil one will have her witch costume covered only by a coat and not a snowsuit this Halloween. The smartest costume I saw last year was the neighbor girl dressed as a snowmobiler... practical... although it would've been much more clever if she had thought to tell people she was Todd Palin.

Anyhoo, I think my gardening days are doneskies.

I pulled up all my glorious tomato plants and gathered what green tomatoes were left, turns out quite a few. There is probably a reason no one else grows heirloom tomatoes up here, they grow too slow or need many more hot days than is possible this far north.

I'm not going to start admitting now that my all organic, sustainable, urban gardener ways may have been slightly misguided. I did too much scoffing at everyone else's puny tomato plants this summer to acknowledge the fact that their tomatoes actually ripened, while most of mine did not.

Nonetheless, I've got buckets of green tomatoes on my hands and am rapidly thinking of ways to use them. I've deduced that anywhere a tomatillo would work, so would a green tomato. They have a similar texture and tartness. What better to cut through the spice and beefy-richness of chili than some sharp green tomatoes?

Oh yeah, add some aged sharp cheddar on top. Washing this down with a Fanta never hurt either.

Green Tomato Chili
Print It!
Makes 8-10 servings

1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 stalks celery, diced
2 green bell peppers, seeded and diced
2 jalapeños, seeded and diced (you can leave seeds in if you like things spicy)
1 pound ground beef
2 teaspoons chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 pound dry pinto beans, soaked overnight, drained and rinsed
3 large green tomatoes, diced
6 cups chicken broth, stock or water
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems chopped

1. Heat oil in a large stock pot with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent. Add garlic, celery, bell peppers, and jalapeños and continue cooking until browned, about 10 minutes.

2. Add ground beef, chili powder, cumin, oregano, and coriander and stir, breaking meat up with the back of your spoon. Cook until beef is browned, about 5 minutes more.

3. Add beans, tomatoes, and broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered until beans are tender, about 2 hours. Add salt and cook another hour. Taste and add more salt as needed; stir in cilantro right before serving.

Nutty Apple Bread

2011-10-24T07:18:00.000-05:00

What does one do with a plethora of apples?

Gallons of apple cider? Check.

Turns out apple cider and apple juice are really the same thing. First you juice the apples, then comes the tricky part. Do you strain the hell out of it? I'm talkin' cheesecloth people. Or do you run it through the colander you use for pasta? That's the difference, thoroughly strained: apple juice, lottsa pulp: cider.

So what do you do next, when everyone's tired of apple cider and you still have 2 gigantic boxes of apples taking up space in your already cramped back porch?

Make moist, delicious nut-filled apple bread is what. Eat it, then make it again. Repeat until you are tired or feel a little disgusted with yourself.

My problem is I can't say no to fresh-picked produce.

Bob, my landlord, (you know Bob, the one who ding-dong ditches boxes of beets and cucumbers at my back door) well this time its apples. He came by with a box of apples from his mother-in-law's tree. I saw him two days later at the library, and he asked if I wanted more? What any sane person would've said was, "No thank you, I haven't done anything with the hundred-or-so apples you already gave me."

But of course I said, "Sure, I'll take some more!" Before we'd even returned from the library, there were two more boxes sitting at my doorstep. Man he's fast!

My 'lil one couldn't have been happier. For the next week I was finding half-eaten apples laying all over the house—on the couch, on the floor, in my bed, in her bed. Apparently when she had tired of the one she was working on, it seemed completely logical to just drop it where she happened to be standing and go grab another. Why not? There were at least a million more on the porch.

Of all the things I did with those apples, this bread was by far my favorite. It is especially delicious warm straight out of the oven, or toasted with butter.

I used hazelnut flour because it was in my freezer and I thought it would give this bread moisture and complexity, but you could substitute whole-wheat flour or just use all-purpose flour. Speaking of substitutions you can also use whatever nut suits your fancy. I used pecans, because that's what I had, but walnuts, hazelnuts, or almonds would also be good.

Nutty Apple Bread
Print It!
Adapted from Joy The Baker

Makes one 9x5-inch loaf

1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup hazelnut flour
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus extra for dusting
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2/3 cup soy milk
1/2 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large eggs
1 cup grated apples
1/ 2 cup coarsely chopped apples
3/4 cup coarsely chopped pecans
Coarse sugar for dusting

1. Heat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 9x5-inch loaf pan and set aside.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flours, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

3. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together soy milk, vinegar, oil, vanilla, and eggs. Mix the wet ingredients into the dry and add apples and half of the pecans. Fold to mix thoroughly.

4. Pour batter into the prepared pan and sprinkle a little more cinnamon, some coarse sugar and the remaining pecans on top.

5. Bake for 50-60 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan for 15 minutes then invert onto a cooling rack to cool completely.

Pasta with Swiss Chard, Sausage, and Yellow Wax Beans

2011-10-19T08:09:00.000-05:00

This summer I increased my gardening two-fold. That is to say last year I had no garden and this year I have two. I guess I'm making up for lost time.

While I increased my gardening by two I did not increase my knowledge of gardening. Research? Planning? Why would I do that? Don't you just plant a seed, water it, and voilá? More or less.

It wasn't that I was unsuccessful, more like unaware that if you plant 3 watermelon plants and 3 cantaloupe plants they will take over your entire garden in a creepy, crawly, sort of way and kill off your basil, cauliflower, and chives.

I did however manage to have an overwhelming crop of swiss chard as you may have noticed from this recipe, and this one. Luckily, chard makes me feel like I'm being healthy and nice to myself so I don't mind cooking it up for dinner.

Pasta with Swiss Chard, Sausage, and Yellow Wax Beans
Print It!
Makes 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
12 ounces hot Italian sausage, casing removed
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 pound yellow wax beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup chicken stock or water
3 cups packed, chopped swiss chard
1/4 cup Italian parsley, chopped
1 pound pasta
Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add sausage and brown, breaking up with the back of the spoon while cooking. Add garlic and cook a minute more. Add beans and stock and scrape up any browned bits that are stuck to the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cover. Cook until beans are just tender, about 3 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook according to package instructions. Drain, reserving 1 cup of pasta water, and return pasta to the pot.

3. When beans are barely tender, add chard and cook until wilted. Season with salt and pepper and pour sausage mixture over pasta, add parsley and more pasta water if it seems dry. Toss together to combine and serve, drizzling each bowl with a little olive oil and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese if desired.

Roasted Red Flannel Hash

2011-10-14T14:25:00.000-05:00

I had a bit of a scare this week. While trying to update some software on my computer I somehow inadvertently lost the ability of view any of my photos. At first it was a minor issue, a mere annoyance that I had written this blog post and now I wouldn't be able to post it because I couldn't attach the photos I had taken.

But then reality set in. I realized that every photo I had taken in the last five years was on my computer and I had quite possibly lost them all. There were very few that I had actually made into prints. That means practically every photo and video I have taken since my child was born was gone.

I very rapidly went from annoyed to absolutely panicked. It took all of my willpower not to rush to the college, pull my husband out of class to come home immediately and fix what I had done. By the time he got home that evening I was a wreck. He assured me that it was a fixable problem and I had not flushed every photo of our child down the drain.

A week later with some help from my new best friend Joseph, the university's tech guru, and the foresight of my brilliant husband to back everything up on an external hard drive, we are back in business.

As the photos were downloading back onto the computer from the hard drive last night we sat there and watched as the last five years of our lives flew by. There's our wedding, me pregnant, Louisa's birth, when we moved, that vacation we took, her first steps, Christmas, at the beach, with Grandma, all happening in warp speed. Literally our life flashing before our eyes.

Photos capture details about your life that memories tend to leave out. They let you relive the past, peek into lives lived a week ago or ten years ago, remember who you were and how far you've come. To loose all that is something I never imagined would happen, until for a week, it did.

Roasted Red Flannel Hash
Print It!
Adapted from CHOW.com

Makes 6 servings

8 ounces bacon, diced
6 medium red potatoes, about 2 pounds, large diced
5 large beets, about 2 1/2 pounds, peeled and large diced
1 onion, diced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
6 large eggs

1. Heat oven to 450°F and arrange rack in the middle. Heat a medium frying pan over medium heat and add bacon. Cook until browned and crisp, about 10-15 minutes.

2. Combine potatoes, beets, onion, and garlic in a large bowl and season generously with salt and pepper. Add browned bacon and any bacon grease to vegetables and toss to combine. Transfer to a large roasting pan and roast in oven until vegetables are tender and browned, about 50 minutes, stirring halfway through.

3. Remove from oven and make 6 indentations in the vegetable mixture. Crack an egg into each indentation, season eggs with salt and pepper and return pan to oven. Cook eggs to desired doneness (the ones in the photo above took about 5 minutes) and serve.

Turkish Roasted Eggplant with Garlic Mayonnaise and Toasted Bread

2011-09-29T21:12:00.000-05:00

I don't remember how I first came upon this dish. What I do remember however, is being a very young, very naive sous-chef in one of Napa Valley's most popular restaurants and suggesting that we put it on the menu as an appetizer.

The next thing I remember is that same appetizer of Turkish-style ratatouille was given a mention in this issue of Saveur magazine. When I say it was given a mention, I mean just that. The article said, we had the Roasted Turkish Eggplant (or whatever it was called on the menu—I can't remember) at Mustard's Grill. The article then went on to give a recipe for the Calamari Salad which they also had and apparently liked better, or at least enough to ask for the recipe.

Well, I didn't care how insignificant it was, I was so excited that something I had made and put on the menu was mentioned in a prominent cooking magazine that you would've thought they said, Chef Kate Curnes is a brilliant woman who we are hereby nominating for the McArthur Genius Award.

I have made this silky, simple eggplant multiple times every summer since. The eggplant is roasted until it melts and the onions and tomatoes on top are transformed into a caramelized sauce. Spoon all this on some crusty toasted bread and drizzle some lemon-garlic mayo on top. Yea, you'll be happy. Trust me.

Turkish Roasted Eggplant with Garlic Mayonnaise and Toasted Bread
Print It!
Makes 4 servings

For the eggplant:
2 pounds eggplant (Japanese or Heirloom eggplant are best)
1 1/2 pounds tomatoes (about 4), diced
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 large clove garlic, sliced
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon sugar
Italian parsley, for garnish

For the mayonnaise:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
Juice of 1 lemon
1 clove garlic, minced

For the toasted bread:
1/2 loaf Levain or other rustic bread
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced

For the eggplant:
1. Heat oven to 425°F. Remove stems from eggplant and cut in half vertically. Score the flesh of each eggplant half, making slashes one way and then the other, but don't cut all the way through. Place in a single layer in a large roasting pan.

2. Combine tomatoes, onion, garlic, oil, salt, and sugar in a large bowl and toss to combine. Spread mixture evenly over eggplant. Cover with foil and roast for 40 minutes or until eggplant is knife tender. Remove foil and continue roasting until onions are browned and juices are reduce by half, about another 30-40 minutes.

For the mayonnaise:
1. Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl, whisking until smooth. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.

For the toasted bread:
1. Slice bread into 1/2-inch thick slices and arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet.

2. Combine oil and garlic in a small frying pan and warm over low heat until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Brush garlic oil over bread slices and place in oven with eggplant. Bake until crisp, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

To serve:
1. Place an eggplant half on a plate, drizzle with mayonnaise and sprinkle a few parsley leaves over the top. Place a bread slice on each plate and serve, passing more mayonnaise at the table.

New Potato and Chard Tacos

2011-09-25T11:34:00.000-05:00

Recently I've been finding myself making a lot of the food I used to eat sitting on overturned milk crates in the back of restaurant kitchens (last post included). I don't really know why, I certainly don't miss that life.

Maybe its the simplicity of the food—I do seem short on time these days—and those staff meals were always last minute affairs, prepared by whoever had enough time between filling straggling lunch orders and prepping for dinner rush.

Everyone had their specialty, the one thing they always made. I was always pasta, Oaxaca was always Chilaquiles, Antonio hamburgers, and Alejandro chard tacos.

Alejandro was stealth in his cooking. You'd be working, thinking about how starving you were and the next thing you knew he'd be handing you a plate of warm tacos. Sometimes he would beef them up with mushrooms, roasted butternut squash, or potato, but often they were simply braised swiss chard with lots of chile flakes and a generous sprinkling of queso fresco on top to cool the heat. He would slowly braise the rainbow-stemed greens with sweet onions and garlic while warming the corn tortillas over the wood-fired grill. We would eat them as quickly as possible, juice running down our arms into our chef coats.

There was something incredibly satisfying about those ten minutes of the day when we were all silent, hovering over our tacos, thinking our own thoughts. Inevitably one person would finish, toss their plate in the dish pile and it was back to work.

New Potato and Chard Tacos
Print It!
Makes 4 servings

5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 yellow onion, diced
2 pounds new potatoes, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 bunch chard, thoroughly washed and dried, stems removed and roughly chopped
1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes, or more if desired
8-12 warm corn tortillas
sour cream or queso fresco and pico de gallo, for serving

1. Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent.

2. Add potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden. Add garlic and cook a minute more. Add chard a little at a time. It will shrink as it cooks, keep stirring and adding handfuls of chard. Once chard is tender, about 3 minutes, add chile flakes and season with salt and pepper.

3. Fill warm tortillas with potato-chard mixture, top with a bit of sour cream or a crumbling of queso fresco and some pico de gallo.

Chilled Beet Borscht with Caraway Croutons

2011-09-14T16:09:00.000-05:00

I have a story for this soup. It involves a little restaurant I used to work at and have fond memories of stealing coffee cups full of this soup.

Because it was a cold soup I could scoop a mug into the five gallon vat and curb my hunger pains in minutes flat.

It was a slightly strange meal at 9 in the morning, but my workstation during the day became the salad and cold apps station at night. I didn't like to have to fight my way for stove space to heat something up so I usually just ate what was in front of me, or actually under me, in this case. Believe me I ate my fair share of salads at that hour as well.

I have been dreaming of this sweet, earthy soup for a few weeks now and decided to contact the chef to get the recipe. He had no idea what I was talking about. Ahh, the chef brain. So I followed my taste buds and made it up myself. It may not be the exact same soup, but it is just as delicious as I remember.

Chilled Beet Borscht with Caraway Croutons
Print It!
Makes 8 servings

For the soup:
8 medium beets, about 2 pounds, peeled and large dice
3 small sweet onions, quartered
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 teaspoons kosher salt
6 cups cold water
5 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Fresh dill for garnish

For the croutons:
2 cups, packed cubed day-old bread, such as baguette or peasant bread
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds, crushed
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

For the soup:
1. Heat oven to 425°F. Place beets and onion on a baking sheet and drizzle with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Arrange vegetables in a single layer and roast until a fork easily goes through, about 40 minutes. Let cool.

2. Place a quarter of the vegetables in a blender. Top with a quarter of the salt, water, and balsamic vinegar. Blend on high until very smooth. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Chill thoroughly, at least 3 hours or overnight.

For the croutons:
1. Heat oven to 375°F. Combine all ingredients in a large frying pan or baking sheet and toss to coat. Arrange in a single layer and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes, turning halfway through. Let cool.

To serve:
1. After soup has chilled, taste again and add more vinegar or salt if desired. Ladle soup into bowls and top with fresh dill and a few croutons. A dollop of sour cream isn't half bad here either.

New Potato and Green Bean Curry

2011-09-07T16:11:00.001-05:00

Earlier this summer my 'lil one and I were asked to represent Mexico at the town library's Reading Around the World Fun Day. Now, I am the first to admit, I am not Mexican, at best I am what my friend Jose calls "Nuevo Latina". But it just so happened that on that particular day my daughter was the only Mexican in town (the Professor happened to be in Vermont) and at 2 years-old she really couldn't be expected to represent Mexico on her own, so I came along.

It was a fun event and brought out all the towns cultural representatives. There was Norway, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Germany, as well as an Indian family whom I've never seen before and us.

Everyone brought something to share from their respective countries. We brought Watermelon Agua Fresca and Mexican Wedding Cakes, the Norwegians were making Lefse and the Indians had this most amazing rice studded with candied carrots and pistachios.

Overjoyed with the good Indian food I started firing questions at the poor unsuspecting matriarch. What market do you go to? In Minneapolis? In Fargo? What I most wanted to ask her was, Can I come over to your house and cook with you? But by the look of apprehension on her face I knew I had already crossed the line.

Inspired, I came home and found a recipe with all the flavors and smells I imagined filled her kitchen as well as one that could use the freshly-dug potatoes from my garden. This recipe is pretty easy and goes fast so have everything ready before beginning otherwise you run the risk of burning the spices.

New Potato and Green Bean Curry
(Printable Recipe)
Adapted from From Curries to Kebabs by Madhur Jaffrey
Makes 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 whole small dried red chiles
1 pound new potatoes, cut in half if large and quartered
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon sugar
1 pound green beans, end trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 cup chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3 medium tomatoes, cut in half and sliced
1 cup cooked garbanzo beans
lemon wedges for serving

1. Heat oil in a large, high-sided frying pan with a lid over medium-high heat. Once shimmering, add mustard seed, cumin seed and dried chiles. As soon as mustard seeds begin to pop (a few seconds) add potatoes.

2. Fry potatoes, stirring occasionally, until they start to brown a little. Add cayenne pepper, cumin, coriander, turmeric and sugar. Stir to coat potatoes in the spices. Add green beans and garlic and cook a few minutes more. Add chicken stock and 1 teaspoon salt, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook for 15 minutes.

3. Add tomatoes, remaining salt and garbanzo beans and simmer, uncovered for another 10 minutes. Taste and add more salt if desired. Serve with lemon wedges and steamed rice.

Pasta with Fresh Tomato Sauce and Fried Eggplant

2011-09-03T14:34:00.000-05:00

I have been waiting for eggplant to make an appearance at our Farmer's market. Last Thursday one of the vendors had a singular eggplant for sale which I quickly snatched up, but this was going to be insufficient to curb any real eggplant cravings I've been experiencing.

So patiently I waited, stowing my precious eggplant in the refrigerator to await a mate. On Saturday I hustled out of the house and down to the market arriving promptly six minutes after ten only to see droves of people, more than have ever been there before. In a panic I hopped out of my car, positive I was going to miss out on what was probably my only chance to secure the other eggplant that was likely for sale that morning.

I made my way through the crowd trying to act nonchalant, making small talk with the other vendors, but I could see that the crowds had began to gather around Becky the Eggplant Lady. Could everyone in this tiny town be experiencing the same insatiable urge?

As I got closer I saw there was not one, but three Japanese eggplants for sale on her table. I shimmied my way to the front as...ahem..politely as possible, only to realize that no one there gave a crap about the eggplant. To me Becky is The Eggplant Lady, to everyone else she's The Corn Lady. They were all there for the corn, thank God! I bought all three of those lovely eggplant and left the masses to push and shove over their ears of corn.

I don't peel the tomatoes before making the sauce, but if you are finicky about bits of skin remove the core of the tomatoes and slash a small x on the underside. Plunge in boiling water for 30 seconds or so then submerge in ice water until cool enough to handle. Peel the tomatoes and chop.

Pasta with Fresh Tomato Sauce and Fried Eggplant
(Printable Recipe)
Makes 4 servings

For the pasta with tomato sauce:
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 large cloves garlic, minced
3 1/2 pounds tomatoes, chopped
1 pound spaghetti or linguine
basil leaves for garnish

For the eggplant:
1 1/2 pounds Japanese or Heirloom variety eggplant, roughly chopped
Olive oil for frying

For the tomato sauce:
1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent. Add garlic and continue to cook 2 minutes more. Add tomatoes, season again with salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cover. Cook for 10 minutes. Uncover and continue simmering until onions are tender and sauce has thickened slightly, about 20-30 minutes. Taste and add more salt if desired.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Once boiling add pasta and cook according to package instructions.

For the eggplant:
1. Place eggplant in a colander and generously season with salt. Toss to distribute salt and let drain in the kitchen sink while oil is heating.

2. Fill a large frying pan with 1/2-inch of olive oil and place over medium heat. Let heat until shimmering, about 5 minutes. Oil is hot enough when a piece of eggplant is immediately covered with bubbles when dropped in the oil.

3. Fry eggplant in two batches until golden brown, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon or bamboo skimmer and repeat with remaining eggplant.

To serve:
1. Drain pasta and return to pot. Ladle tomato sauce over pasta (you may have leftovers depending on how saucy you like your pasta) and add fried eggplant. Gently toss to combine and serve with torn basil leaves.

Sour Apple and Molasses Baked Beans

2011-09-01T14:25:00.000-05:00

I'm going to be honest with you, these baked beans seriously take forever to make.

Keep in mind I did not say, take a lot of work, but simply a long time—4 hours in the oven to be exact (that doesn't include the overnight soaking of the beans or the hour and a half to parboil the beans or sauté the vegetables.)

But stick with me now, because the resulting toothsome molasses and bacon soaked beans are sooooo marvelous, and really, patience is a virtue so you should start practicing now.

I get a craving for these beans at least once a year but I always have to wait to make them for a picnic or barbecue because the recipe makes a ton and I end up eating them for a week straight.

They've been on my mind for at least a month now and I finally had the opportunity to make them for a back-to-school shindig at the lake. Worth the wait, yes they were. With a grilled braut and some spicy mustard; the time I spent stuck in my house waiting for them to bake was well worth it.

I use a bag of 15 bean soup mix for this recipe. I love the variety of beans and all the variations in texture and flavor. You may find anywhere from a 13 bean mix to a 16 bean mix any of them work fine, just rinse the beans well and discard the seasoning packet that comes in the bag.

The bacon I get is house-cured at my local butcher shop and is very lean, therefore takes more time to brown (about 20 minutes). If you have very fatty bacon it could take as little as 5 minutes to get browned and crisp.

Sour Apple and Molasses Baked Beans
(Printable Recipe)
Makes 8-10 servings

1 pound bag dried 15 bean soup mix, seasoning packet discarded and rinsed well
8 ounces thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch strips
1 large onion, chopped
2 green bell peppers, seeded and chopped
2 pounds tomatoes, chopped
1 cup ketchup
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup molasses
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon dry mustard
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and diced

1. Pick over the beans and cover with at least 2-inches of water. Let soak in the refrigerator overnight.

2. Drain beans and rinse in a couple changes of cold water. Place in a large pot and cover with 2-inches of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a vigorous simmer, skimming off any white foam that rises to the top. Simmer until just tender, about 45 minutes. Drain.

3. Heat oven to 350°F. Heat a large, oven-safe, Dutch oven with a tight fitting lid over medium-low heat and add bacon. Let cook, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, this could take anywhere from 5-20 minutes. Remove bacon with tongs or a slotted spoon to a plate and set aside.

4. Add onions to bacon fat and increase heat to medium. Cook until starting to brown. Add peppers and cook 5 more minutes, or until starting to brown. Add beans, tomatoes, bacon, ketchup, brown sugar, molasses, Worcestershire sauce, and mustard and gently stir to combine. Cover and bake in the oven for 2 hours.

5. Add apples and season with salt and bake for another 1 1/2-2 hours uncovered, or until thick and beans are tender, but not mushy. Taste and season with more salt as needed.

Purple Gooseberry Pie

2011-08-29T15:26:00.000-05:00

Gooseberries, a fruit closely related to the currant, are one of those fleeting summer berries rarely found outside their local growing area. We had them growing up in Iowa, bright green and dastardly tart, they would appear for a week or so in early summer and then they were gone. So I was surprised to see a crimson-purple version at our Farmer's market last week.

This violet strain was developed in North Dakota in 1932 in an effort to repopulate the upper-Midwest with the tear-dropped shaped fruit after a ban to grow them was lifted the year before. Similar to its other American counterparts the berries start off green, but then ripen to a rosy purple. They were much sweeter than the ones I remember eating as a kid, more like a tart raspberry than a mouth puckering cranberry.

You can make this pie using the green variety, although you might want to add a 1/4 cup or so more sugar. And I have a confession to make about the pie dough. I like to make it in two batches, I think it is much easier to handle. If you don't have a problem dealing with large amounts of dough, than follow the recipe as written, but if you are a crust-newbie, try cutting the ingredients in half and make it in two batches.

Purple Gooseberry Pie
(Printable Recipe)

Makes 1 (9-inch) pie

For the crust:
3 cups all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup frozen vegetable shortening, cut into small pieces
1/2 cup ice water

For the filling:
2 pints gooseberries
1 cup granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling
3 tablespoons tapioca starch
1 teaspoon apple pie spice
1 large egg

For the crust:

1. Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl and stir to incorporate. Add shortening and toss until the pieces are coated with flour. Using a dough cutter, cut shortening into the flour until pea-sized pieces form.

2. Add water, a couple tablespoons at a time, and blend into dough by tossing with your fingers (don't knead the dough). Once dough starts coming together, divide into 2 balls then flatten into compact disks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile line a baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil and place on the bottom rack in the oven. Heat oven to 425°F.

For the filling:

1. Rinse gooseberries and remove the stems and hulls. Place in a large bowl and add sugar, tapioca and apple pie spice. Stir to combine.

To assemble:

1. On a lightly floured surface, roll 1 disk of dough into a 11 to 12-inch circle (about 1/8-inch thick), and place in a 9-inch pie plate. Press into plate so the dough is snug against the edge.

2. Give filling one last stir to mix all the ingredients and pour into pie shell, making sure filling is evenly distributed.

3. Roll out remaining disk of dough the same as the first and lay over filling. Pinch the two edges of dough together and trim flush against the lip of the pie plate.

4. Make a decorative edge by pressing the back of a fork along the edge of the dough. With a sharp knife, make a few slits on the top of the pie to let steam escape, or cut out a decorative pattern.

5. Beat egg with a teaspoon of water and brush egg wash over the top of the pie. Sprinkle top with sugar and place on heated baking sheet in the oven. Bake until just starting to turn golden, about 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350°F. Continue baking until crust is a deep golden brown and filling is bubbling in the middle, about 45 to 50 minutes more. Remove from oven and let cool at least 1 hour before serving.

Almond Salsa Verde Recipe

2011-08-28T16:10:00.000-05:00

Even here in the blistering cold hinterlands signs of spring are appearing. And by that I mean good signs, like green grass and small, precious blossoms on trees. Until now signs of spring have primarily been represented by 25 foot levees built to hold back the winter melt-off that has turned our rivers into something that would rival the confluence of the Mississippi and the Amazon. Friends and family who call mainly want to know if all the snow has melted and for the first time in 7 months I can emphatically say, YES!

I have yet to plant a seedling (that won't happen until after Memorial Day) or break out my grill, but spring flavors are slowly creeping their way into the kitchen. Little hints of brightness have appeared on cold-weather stalwarts like roast chicken and creamy, pureed soups.

I got it in my head that a fresh salsa verde might be a nice introduction to the lighter flavors of spring. Just a touch of something summery and vivid, to liven up the tone of our meals. I served this salsa with roast chicken and it was gone in one meal, but it's piquant flavors would compliment any roasted or grilled meat. Other uses might be beaten into soft goat cheese and spread on crisp bread, swirled into soup, piled high with a little sour cream on a baked potato, really the options are endless.

It takes a bit of chopping, but instead of spending hours on the main course, prepare a fast grilled steak and serve it with this salsa, just as much flavor in half the time.

Almond Salsa Verde
(Print this recipe)
Makes 2 cups

1 cup minced fresh parsley
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup almonds, toasted and finely chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons capers, chopped
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

1. Combine all ingredients; mix well until thoroughly moistened. Serve with roasted or grilled meats or hearty vegetables, like baked potatoes, roasted carrots or grilled asparagus. Salsa verde will keep in refrigerator, covered, for up to 3 days.

Summer Squash Tacos

2011-08-21T14:15:00.001-05:00

I am a woman on a mission. I'm determined, maybe obsessive is a better word, to buy up every beautiful fruit and vegetable at the Farmer's market and eat it before it is all gone. Which will be very shortly my friends.

Every time I go to the Farmer's market I picture the mountains of snow that will soon be piled high above my head and how my produce options will be limited to the pathetic-looking specimens in the supermarket. Admittedly, I would make a pitiful Laura Ingalls Wilder out here on the prairie. I enjoy all the modern day conveniences and still complain about not having locally-grown produce in the middle of winter. I guess living in San Francisco destroyed my inner-homsteader.

All this vegetable hoarding has led The Professor to declare last week, "I can't have pasta or stir-fry again tonight." He can't stand bean or grain salads so I started thinking tacos. Summer squash make excellent tacos when tossed in a hot pan with a little onion and spice. The trick is to make sure the pan and oil are hot, but not smoking, and to not stir too much. This will give you nice charred spots without the squash turning to mush.

Summer Squash Tacos
(Printable Recipe)

Makes 3-4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 red onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound zucchini, yellow, or patty pan squash, quartered and sliced into 1/2-inch thick slices
1/2 teaspoon minced rosemary
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
10-12 corn tortillas
Pico de Gallo and sour cream, for serving

1. Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Once shimmering add onion and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook until just starting to brown. Add squash, rosemary, and cumin, and season again with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is tender and browned in a few spots.

2. Meanwhile, heat a medium frying pan over medium heat. Once warm, add tortillas one at a time, toasting lightly on both sides. Transfer tortillas to a clean kitchen towel to keep warm. Once squash is nicely browned, transfer to a warm bowl and serve with tortillas, pico de gallo and sour cream

Pico de Gallo

2011-08-20T13:47:00.003-05:00

I've been going down my roster of requisite recipes that I make every tomato season. Ones that really require fresh-picked, fragrant, ripe tomatoes. I haven't gotten to BLT yet. It is by far my favorite and I have been waiting for my own tomatoes to become ripe enough for the distinct honor of being sliced and placed between smoky bacon, bread and mayonnaise.

I have made several batches of Pico de Gallo, the bona fide version of what most supermarkets sell in jars as "salsa". Every time I make it I think I've made too much, but by the end of dinner it is gone. If a measly cup makes it to the next day it is quickly snatched up by whoever spots it first for topping their scrambled eggs or spooning onto quesadillas.

I guess everyone knows when tomato season is over, so is pico de gallo.

Pico de Gallo
(Printable Recipe)
Makes 5 cups salsa

4 cups diced tomatoes, about 6 large tomatoes
1/3 cup minced onion
2 jalapeños, seeded if desired and minced
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
Juice of 3 medium limes
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Taste and add more lime juice or salt if desired.