Home Improvement and Automotive Repair Ideas

How to Maintain a Trailer

2015-01-02T11:36:00.000-08:00

Operating and storing a trailer through various weather conditions will eventually lead to wear and tear that can make operating it dangerous. Perform these routine maintenance steps to keep your trailer at its optimal performance level.

Do a walk around inspection of your trailer each time you hitch it to a vehicle. Check for visible damage to the walls, floor, tail lights, tires, and to the wiring harness. Look under the trailer to see if there is anything hanging down that may drag the ground. If the walls or floor of the trailer are made of wood, keep the wood treated to avoid rotting. If you find rotten boards, replace them immediately. If the majority of the trailer is metal, apply a fresh coat of paint at least once a year and touch up scratches or exposed metal to help prevent rust.

Check the wiring harness for breaks or brittle wires. Replace any corroded wires or connectors and try to run them through a piece of conduit if possible. Ask someone to assist you with checking brake lights and turn signals. Replace any burned-out bulbs. Verify that the license tag has an up-to-date renewal sticker and that the registration for the trailer is in the glove box of the vehicle which will tow it.

Inspect the trailer hitch and be sure the ball is attached tightly. With the trailer attached to the hitch, test the connection by pulling up on it aggressively, but be careful not to strain your back. The safety chains should be clean and rust-free and they should be attached each time the trailer is used.

Use a tire pressure gauge to check the pressure in the trailer’s tires. Do not load too much cargo onto the trailer as to exceed the recommended towing capacity. If you are not sure about this limit, check the trailer manufacturer’s website for details or look in the owner’s manual if you have a copy. Do these routine checks to ensure the safety of your cargo as well as everyone who will be traveling on the same road.

How to Fix Christmas Lights

2014-12-15T11:26:00.000-08:00

You just finished decorating your Christmas tree with ornaments and Christmas lights. Suddenly, you notice a few bulbs are burned out. No problem; you have several spare bulbs in a drawer that you saved just for this moment. Wait, these are old bulbs from several years ago and the base of the bulbs won't fit into the socket of the burned out lights. What now?

Remove the burned-out Christmas light bulb from its socket. Do this by carefully applying upward pressure on the plastic base just below the glass bulb. It helps to have fingernails when doing this. Try not to pull on the glass bulb.

Once the old bulb has been removed, compare its base with that of the replacement bulb. If it matches, then you should have no problem easily just inserting the new bulb into the socket. If the bases do not match, then you will need to remove both bulbs from their sockets and swap them.

You will probably need to straighten the wires so that they will fit into the holes of the socket.

To remove a Christmas light from its socket, find the two copper wires at the base of the bulb. Push both wires downward so that if the tip of the bulb is pointing at the ceiling, then the wires will point towards the floor. Firmly pull upward on the glass bulb and it should separate from the base. Do the same thing with the replacement bulb.

With both copper wires from the new bulb pointing straight down, insert the new bulb into the old bulb's socket and try to align the copper wires with the two holes at the bottom of the base. Once the wires have been inserted, press the bulb completely down into the base. Push both wires upward so that they follow the groove on each side of the bulb base. Now they should be facing the same direction as the tip of the glass bulb. Insert this new arrangement into the empty light socket and the bulb should illuminate!

Tips & Warnings

Be careful when working with electricity! If possible, wrap a small piece of masking tape around the base of the burned-out bulbs to mark them and them perform the bulb replacement with the Christmas lights unplugged.

How to Determine which Wire is “Hot” in Household Wiring

2014-06-18T11:20:00.000-07:00

Your home repair project involves installing a light fixture and an electrical outlet. You flipped the breakers and disconnected the existing fixture, but now you’re uncertain which wire is the “hot” one. What now?

In the United States, household wiring code offers us a clue as to which wire SHOULD correspond to what. Extreme caution should be used, however, when dealing with electricity, even if you feel certain that you know which wire is which. The possibility exists that a misguided handy-man who came before you made the wrong choice connecting the wires. You can never be too careful when your life is at risk.

According to code, the black wire is always the “hot” or “live” wire, meaning, it is connected to a source supplying 110 VAC. If you are connecting this wire to an electrical outlet, this wire should connect to the narrow spade, or brass colored terminal. If you have not switched off the breakers like you’re supposed to and you grab the copper conductor of this wire, you will probably feel an unmistakable tingling sensation quickly travel up your arm. If you do feel it, let go of the wire because this sensation is not good for you. If this happens to you often, be sure to have someone around who knows CPR and first aid when you do home repairs.

The green wire is your friend. This is the ground wire. Its sole purpose for existing is to save your life by providing electricity an alternate path to ground. In the case of a short circuit, the current passes through the ground wire and overloads the breakers, causing them to trip. Sometimes this wire will also have a yellow stripe. Be sure to connect the ground wire properly when performing an electrical repair. If the copper conductor of the “hot” wire that we just discussed were to maneuver it’s way over to the metal casing of, for example your ceiling fan, and make contact with it without the ground wire attached, you would be in for a nasty surprise when you touched the metal casing of the fan.

The white wire is known as the “neutral” wire. In any circuit, whether AC or DC, there has to be a complete path in order for the electrical current to flow. The white wire alone should not have a charge and should not hurt you if you touch it. If installing an electrical outlet, this wire connects to the wide spade or silver colored terminal.

Sometimes, you will find a red wire living side-by-side with the black, white, and green wires. This wire is known as a “traveler” wire and is used to connect power between 3-way light switches.

Always use caution when working with household wiring. Turn off the breaker that corresponds to the circuit that you are working on. If you are not certain which one is which, switch off the main breaker. Even then, it is a good idea to test the wires with a multimeter to be absolutely certain that the wires are not “hot”. It’s a good idea to test between the black wire and the white wire and then between the black wire and the green wire. It is important to note that when reading AC voltage with a multimeter, if you connect your probes between two wires that are both “hot” (110VAC) the reading will be 0 volts. (A lesson that I learned the hard way!) Always know what you are doing when dealing with electricity. Small mistakes could prove to be fatal.

How to Make a Light Bulb Easier to Remove from the Socket

2014-06-04T11:13:00.000-07:00

Do you have an old light fixture that grips the light bulb in a way that makes it difficult to remove? If too much stress is applied while trying to remove the bulb, it will often cause the bulb to shatter. This article teaches a simple way to make light bulbs easier to remove.

When installing or removing a light bulb into an overhead light fixture, it is wise to wear protection for your eyes. Position the light switch for the light fixture to the OFF position. Carefully remove the installed light bulb from the light socket. If the bulb shatters, you will need to remove the metal base from the socket before proceeding.

Find a new light bulb which has never been installed. Rub the threads of the metal base of the new light bulb with the bar of soap. Be careful not to cover the bottom tip of the metal base with soap because it needs to make solid contact with the metal piece inside the base of the light socket. Carefully install the new light bulb into the socket. The next time the bulb must be replaced, it should be noticeably easier to remove from the socket. Position the switch for the light fixture back into the ON position to test the new light bulb. If the room is illuminated, you have completed your task.

Tips & Warnings

Collect extra bars of soap each time you stay in a hotel. Use this soap to coat the metal threads of the light bulb instead of the soap that you bathe with.
Always use caution when handling electrical devices!
Wear eye protection to change the bulbs in overhead light fixtures.

Choosing the Correct Engine Oil

2014-05-19T11:06:00.000-07:00

It’s time to change the oil in your car, but when you go to the store, you find that many different types of engine oil are available. Which one should you choose?

Go to your nearest automotive parts store or retail super center. Locate the large selection of engine oil. The viscosity of the engine oil should be clearly labeled on the bottle. This will be a series of numbers and letters, like 10W-30. Viscosity is the measure of resistance of the oil as it is being deformed by stress. The first part of the number in the viscosity rating, (ex. 10W) refers to the weight (10) of the oil and whether it is rated (W) for winter use. The second part of the number (ex. -30) refers to how thin the weight of the oil will be when it is warmed to operating temperature. The oil actually changes viscosity when heated due to the addition of polymers by the manufacturer.

5W viscosity oil is thin oil and circulates quickly. It is used for lower temperatures.

5W-20 viscosity oil is used for outside temperatures ranging from -20 °F to 0 °F.

5W-30 viscosity oil is used for outside temperatures ranging from -20 °F to 60 °F.

10W oil is thicker than 5W and is suitable for most temperatures.

10W viscosity oil is used for outside temperatures ranging from 0 °F to 60 °F.

10W-30 viscosity oil is used for outside temperatures ranging from 0 °F to 100 °F.

10W-40 viscosity oil is used for outside temperatures ranging from 0 °F to 100 °F.

20W-20 viscosity oil is used for outside temperatures ranging from 20 °F to 100 °F.

20W-40 viscosity oil is used for outside temperatures ranging from 20 °F to 100 °F.

20W-50 viscosity oil is used for outside temperatures ranging from 20 °F to 100 °F.

Always check the manufacturer’s specifications for your engine before adding or changing the oil and never mix oils of different viscosity together. Remove one before adding the other and be sure to change the oil filter.

Installing an Electric Iron and Ironing Board Holder

2014-05-05T08:54:00.000-07:00

A hot iron sitting on an ironing board is an accident waiting to happen when there are small children running around your home. Install a device that will store the iron and board safely away and also free up needed space.

Choose the best place for the iron and board to be stored. This may be in a closet or bathroom area, but it should be a room with a door that can be closed in order to prevent access to it by small children. It is also a good idea to store the iron and board in a low-traffic area that is not frequently accessed by guests.

Using an electronic stud finder, locate the left and right edges of a wooden stud inside your wall. Mark the edges lightly with a pencil so that you will know where the middle of the stud is. These marks should be made in close proximity to the position on the wall where you will mount the holder.

Position the plastic holder on the wall in the area where you would like it to be permanently mounted. Firmly hold the plastic holder with one hand and with your other hand, hang the ironing board on the holder to be sure the holder is positioned high enough for the board to clear the floor. If there is a door nearby, check it for clearance too. Remove the board from the holder and align the holder so that that center mounting holes are between the pencil lines that you made to mark the wooden stud. Mark these holes using your pencil. It is a good idea to also check the sides of the holder using a level. If the holder is level, the board will hang level when the installation is complete.

Remove the holder from the wall and drill small pilot holes for each mounting hole. The pilot holes should be just smaller than the screw that will occupy the hole. If any of the screws do not match up with the wooden stud, insert a wall anchor to provide extra support. Place the plastic holder back onto the wall and apply screws to each one using your Phillips screwdriver. Do not over tighten the screws!

Insert the iron and wrap the cord so that it fits underneath. Insert the board and inspect the installation from all sides. Pull on the board and make sure the holder doesn’t budge.

How to Back Up a Trailer

2014-05-02T08:51:00.000-07:00

So you just bought a new trailer and you are learning how to drive with it? Things seem pretty easy at first. The trailer just tags along and follows you wherever you go. Now put the vehicle in reverse and try to maneuver the trailer into a parking spot or up to a specific place on a loading dock. Reverse driving with a trailer is not quite as easy as forward driving, but with practice, it will become second nature. Here are a few tips on how to back up your trailer with ease

Be sure that the trailer, or some part of the back of it, is visible to you as you drive. If the vehicle is taller than the trailer, attach something to the trailer on one or both of the back corners that extends up high enough to be seen by the driver. A flag or colored post would be perfect for this task.

Remember, when you are driving in reverse, the trailer will travel in the opposite direction of the way the steering wheel is turned. If you are backing up a trailer and it turns way too far, don't panic, just drive the vehicle forward until the trailer straightens out. A helpful tip for backing into driveways is to drive past the driveway or entrance on the same side of the road as the entrance until the trailer has just passed it. You should turn the vehicle at the end of this approach so that it is facing the opposite side of the road at a slight angle. When you begin to back up, you will notice that the trailer maneuvers much easier and doesn't have as far to travel to make the turn. You will need to turn the steering wheel towards the direction of the opposite side of the road as you back up. This approach will help to keep the vehicle from having to venture off-road in order to correctly angle the trailer. Just be mindful of traffic in both directions as you attempt this.

For practice, find a parking lot with few or no cars to practice driving in reverse. Weekends are a good time for this. Take along some obstacles like road cones to set up different scenarios and learn the best way to approach each one. Also practice driving backwards with a trailer in a straight line and learn how to judge distances. If you spend much of your time driving the trailer by yourself, it may not be a bad idea to install a sensor on the back that will detect when an object is within a certain distance of the back of the trailer. If there are people around, it doesn't hurt to ask someone stand behind the trailer to help you as you back up. Most people won't mind offering a helping hand.

Finding the Door Security Code for a Ford Explorer

2014-04-30T08:45:00.000-07:00

If you’ve ever locked the keys inside a Ford Explorer XLT or Eddie Bauer, you know the benefit of having the door keypad to unlock it. What do you do if you’ve lost the code?

XLT and Eddie Bauer model Ford Explorers are equipped with a five-button key pad on the driver’s side door that may be used to gain entry to the vehicle or to manually lock all of the doors from that side in the event that the owner misplaces their keys or locks them in the vehicle. This feature is great for those times when you’d otherwise be stranded outside the vehicle.

If you have forgotten the code, you do have the option to pay the dealer where you purchased the Explorer and they will provide the code, but the fee is significant. You can find the code hidden inside the Explorer, so why pay for it? The keypad is not helpful if your keys are locked inside and you don’t know the code, but if you still have access to the interior of the vehicle, you should be able to locate the code and memorize it or write it down. You just have to know where to look.

Hmmm... what was that code?

Open the rear hatch of the Explorer. Inside the drivers’ side of the storage area, there is an access panel where the jack is stored. Open this panel by twisting the knob and completely remove the panel. You may have to remove the jack from it’s holder to see the code.

Using a flashlight, look inside the panel in the direction of the front of the vehicle. There is a label inside with the code typed on it. You may have to look at odd angles to see it or use a mirror to get a better look. Write down the code and then close and lock all the doors of the Explorer. Try entering the code to unlock the doors. Pressing the two buttons on the far right twice simultaneously should lock all the doors. This quick lock function is a universal feature no matter what code is assigned to unlock the doors. If for any reason the code does not work, consult the dealer. They may have to reprogram the keypad, which will also cost you.

Detecting Visitors in a Driveway Using Infrared Photoelectric Sensors

2014-04-14T08:41:00.000-07:00

Sometimes you just need an extra minute to prepare for a guest’s arrival. When the doorbell rings, it’s often too late. Why not install an infrared photoelectric system that will alert you to the presence of a guest before they ever make it to your door?

Infrared photoelectric sensors may be used to detect objects in a number of ways. Mounting the sender and the receiver across from each other is known as a through-beam configuration and provides the strongest beam. Retro-reflective mounting places the sender and the receiver on the same side and bounces the infrared beam off an object when it is in close enough proximity. Diffuse proximity mounting uses the same layout as retro reflective, but also uses a reflector on the side opposite the photo eyes. Any of these three configurations may be used to set up a driveway monitoring system depending on what type of structures are adjacent to the driveway.

Evaluate the best location to mount the sensors. This may be a mailbox, a fence post, a brick building, a bridge, or whatever standing structure happens to be within range of the driveway. If you mount the photoelectric sensors in a through-beam configuration they do not need to be very close to the driveway, whereas the other two options will need to be much closer, depending on the type of photoelectric sensors used, like ten to fifteen feet.

Trace a route back to your home for burying the sensor wires, but don’t put the wires in the ground yet. Instead, extend the wires back to the house above-the-ground and connect the photo eyes to the appropriate power source or to an external amplifier if the photoelectric system includes one. Connect the output of the sensors to a buzzer or bell with a noise that is distinctly different from the sound that your doorbell or telephone makes so that you can easily distinguish them. Many photoelectric amplifiers include a relay output, so connecting them to a buzzer should be as easy as connecting a mechanical switch. See the manufacturer’s website for wiring diagrams.

Test the system using different types of cars and trucks and also people. Adjust the sensitivity of the photoelectric system to the optimum level and mount the photo eyes at the right height from the ground to hit the midsection of most vehicles. When everything is set correctly, bury the conduit containing the wires and do your best to conceal the photo eyes from view. This system will provide a reliable means for detecting guests before they are standing on your doorstep and could also be interfaced with a security camera or lights. The opportunities are unlimited.

Preparing Your Home for Overnight Visitors

2014-04-04T08:35:00.000-07:00

Your home is your comfort zone; a place where you can unwind at the end of a long day, but is your home ready to accept overnight visitors? Follow these easy steps and be prepared for them.

Perform a thorough cleaning of the entire house. Vacuum every inch of carpet and rugs and sweep and mop all the other floor coverings. Use disinfectant to clean all counter tops and bathrooms. Change the air filter in the hallway return. Make sure each room of the house is as clean as it can possibly be. Adjust the thermostat temperature to the most comfortable setting for the current season. If you have pets, find out whether your guest has any pet allergies so that you’ll know whether or not to keep them separated.

Wash and fold your best towels and leave enough stacked in the bathroom for each day that your visitor will be there. Prepare a basket with soap, shampoo, mouthwash, toothpaste, and shaving supplies, in case they forget a few things. Buy plenty of snacks and drinks and have them chilled well in advance. Rent a few movies as back-up entertainment and leave them near the television. If your visitor has given you any special gifts in the past, find them, dust them off, and leave them out on display to show how much you appreciate the gift.

Create a guest account on your computer and be sure to leave the computer logged into that account so that your visitor may check their email and use the Internet without having access to your personal files and information. It is a good idea to create a restore point on computers running Windows operating system and back up any important files to external storage devices. Lock all filing cabinets and search the house for documents like bank statements or personal mail and put all of it away. Now is a good time to shred any old documents that you no longer need.

When your guest arrives, give them a short tour of the house and show them to their room. Keep the house quiet and give them plenty of time to unpack and relax. Offer them refreshments and tell them where to find you when they are ready. If you will be eating out, prepare a list of restaurants in advance and allow your guest to choose their favorite type of food. Enjoy your time together without worrying about the condition of your home and without the stress of making last-minute decisions.

How to Install Automatic Foundation Vents on Your Home

2014-03-31T08:33:00.000-07:00

Most old metal foundation vents are equipped with a lever or slide switch which allows the homeowner to manually open and close the vents in response to changes in the temperature outside. Let's face it though, how many people remember to switch these vents at the appropriate times? Leaving the vents open year-round wastes energy and can lead to excess moisture under a home.

This creates a perfect environment for mold and mildew to grow and is also a welcome home for termites. Automatic foundation vents are a wonderful investment because they save the homeowner the trouble of having to constantly open and close them with the changing outside conditions.

Most automatic foundation vent installations require only a claw hammer and a flathead screwdriver. Using a pair of knee pads will make the job more comfortable.

To remove an existing foundation vent, the cement around the vent needs to be chiseled away. Strap on your knee pads or position your stool in front of the vent to be replaced and use the hammer and either a chisel or a flathead screwdriver to tap on the cement around the existing vent. Most of it should crack and fall away. Be sure to only loosen the cement around the vent and try not to loosen any of the bricks.

If the existing foundation vent is made of metal, try to wedge the claw portion of the claw hammer behind one of the metal slats on the face of the vent. Now use some leverage to pry the vent out of the wall. Don't worry about damaging the vent. It should be discarded at the end of the project anyway. When the vent is removed, use the hammer and chisel or screwdriver to remove any excess cement in the rectangular opening left by the absent vent.

Installation may vary depending by the type of automatic vents that you purchase, but the current standard uses metal clips and also pointed screws which apply pressure to the bricks at each corner of the automatic vent to hold it in place. Position each clip and screw in place and then, working against the resistance caused by the metal clips, insert the automatic vent into the opening. Once it is flush with the existing brick wall, tighten each screw carefully.

That's it, the installation is complete. When the temperature drops to approximately 40 degrees F, the vent will close automatically using an internal metal coil. This same coil will cause the vent to reopen when the temperature returns to 70 degrees F. There are powered vents available which include a fan, but these simple automatic vents only use a metal coil and no power to operate.

Tips & Warnings

• Routinely inspect under your home for signs of moisture.
• Be sure to maintain a contract with a termite control company. They will alert you to possible moisture problems when they perform the annual termite inspection.
• If you cannot afford to purchase replacement vents for your entire house at once, try replacing just several at a time every few weeks.
• Automatic foundation vents may be found at your local home improvement store and the average price is around $15 each.
• Do not assume that just replacing vents will completely solve moisture problems under your home. This is just one remedy. Each situation is different. Evaluate your situation carefully and if you need automatic vents, then the steps in this article will help you to install them.
• Avoid striking the bricks around the vent opening or applying too much pressure. You'd be surprised how easily they may be removed!

How to Get Rid of Box Elder Bugs

2014-03-05T07:02:00.000-08:00

What are all of these tiny black and orange bugs doing on the side of my house and where did they come from? What can I do to get rid of them?

The first thing to consider when dealing with Box Elder bugs is their purpose in life. These bugs are attracted to the female Box Elder tree. You may not even have this type of tree in your yard, but if there is one nearby, you may find lots of these bugs sunning themselves on the side of the house or exploring the rooms inside. All they really want to do is eat, reproduce, and bask in the warm sun, (don't we all?) but when the sun goes down, they search for warmer accommodations, usually in cracks, under mulch and pine needles, and inside homes. As with other types of common bugs, you may decide at first to just ignore the problem, but with these critters, that would be a bad mistake. While they do not pose any health threat to humans that I'm aware of, nor do they bite, they do multiply very quickly. If a few wander into your home and are left unattended, they will make themselves very welcome and invite their friends.

If you notice these bugs hanging around, be sure to check inside all of the rooms in your house for cracks and crevices where they may enter unnoticed. Pay particular attention to windows on the eastern side of your home, especially old wooden ones that may not be weather-tight. If the Box Elder bug has paid you a visit, you will probably notice some weird orange spots that will scrub off painted surfaces with soap and water. If the bugs find your accommodations particularly comfortable, you may also notice tiny clusters of red eggs stuck here and there. Be sure to remove your blinds and look inside the box that holds the mechanism for raising and lowering them. They seem to enjoy hiding in there.

Use a wet paper towel with a little soap to remove the orange trail and any eggs that you may find. You may either vacuum up live adult Box Elder bugs or grab them in a paper towel and crush them, but be sure not to step on them or crush them onto a carpeted surface, as they tend to leave a red spot that stinks and is hard to remove. It is preferable not to do battle with these bugs inside your home. Don't bother using insect sprays to try to prevent them. It will not work unless applied directly to the bug. Your best bet is to find their colonies outdoors while the bugs are still too young to fly and destroy them before they have the chance to travel too far. Insecticide, like Ortho Max works when sprayed directly onto the bugs, but so does soapy water. Using detergent and water is the cheaper alternative and will be less harmful when used in areas where pets have access.

Don't be discouraged if it takes a while to get rid of these pests. Just be sure to keep an eye on them and kill them when you find them outdoors. Keep your home sealed tight and the impact from the Box Elder bug's visit will be minimal.

Whatever you do, do not step on these bugs on a carpeted floor. They will leave a red stain!

How to Magnetize and Demagnetize a Screwdriver

2014-02-04T06:57:00.000-08:00

When working with small screws it is very handy to have a magnetized screwdriver to pick up and hold the screws while they are installed. Be sure not to use your magnetic screwdriver near a computer hard drive!

Find the strongest magnet that you can. The magnet found on the back of an old audio speaker is perfect for this. Hold this magnet in one hand and the screwdriver in the other.

Pull the screwdriver across the magnet.

Touch the magnet to the base of the metal shaft of the screwdriver and pull the screwdriver until the tip reaches the magnet.

Repeat this several times to make the magnetic field stronger. Place some screws on a flat surface and test your new magnetic tool. The screws should stick to the screwdriver, making them easy to pick up and retrieve if dropped.

To demagnetize the screwdriver, do the same steps above, but in reverse. Place the tip of the metal shaft on the magnet and push the screwdriver until the magnet reaches the base of the shaft. Repeat several times and the screwdriver should no longer be able to pick up the screws.

How to Fix the Center Console Armrest Cover in a 1995 - 2001 Ford Explorer

2014-01-31T06:34:00.000-08:00

When the center console armrest cover in your second generation (1995-2001) Ford Explorer has become cracked and ugly from years of sun damage, don’t spend a lot of money replacing it. With a little effort, you can restore it and make it look brand new for under ten dollars.

Things You’ll Need

Vinyl material of matching color and texture

Double-sided tape

Pencil or pen

Scissors

Phillips head screwdriver

Small flathead screwdriver

Step 1

Cut or tear off a piece of the damaged armrest cover. Visit a piece goods store and find the upholstery section. Show them the old material and ask them if they have anything similar in texture and color. For my repair, I purchased a yard of marine grade vinyl, which is used to recover boat seats, for under $8.00. In retrospect, a third of a yard should be plenty of material unless you are prone to accidents.

Step 2

Lift the armrest cover to expose the inside of the console storage compartment. On the hinge in the back, you will see three Phillips head screws. Remove all three and place them in a cup holder. You won’t need these screws again until you re-install the armrest cover.

Step 3

Place the armrest cover with the bottom side facing up on a hard, flat surface. Around the perimeter of the cover, you will see nine Phillips head screws. Carefully remove each of these and place them in a safe location. Remove the plastic panel to expose the interior of the armrest cover. You should see a series of small staples that hold the vinyl material firmly in each of the corners.

Step 4

Very carefully pry these staples out of the plastic armrest base. If the plastic base is old, it may have become brittle and you don’t want to crack it. When all staples are removed, throw them away and remove the outer vinyl cover. Inspect the underlying foam material. If it looks OK, don’t worry about replacing it.

Step 5

Spread out the new vinyl material faced down on the flat surface and place the old vinyl material on top of it. Stretch it out as much as you can and trace the outline onto the new material using a pencil or pen. As long as you can recreate the basic shape of the original material, it should work. Don’t worry if your new design is not as perfect as the original. It would actually benefit you to add up to an inch along the longer sides. Try to make the front and back of the new material match the original as closely as possible, though. Don’t worry about cutting holes for the screws. They will punch through the material when you screw them back in.

Step 6

Cut two inch-long pieces of double stick tape and apply them to the plastic base, just inside the rear section. Lay the plastic base upside down on the new material and stretch the piece that corresponds to the back of the armrest so that it sticks to the tape. Now, place two small pieces of tape inside the front of the base. Lift the entire base and stretch the material towards the front. When the material is as tight as you can get it, fold it firmly onto the tape.

Step 7

Flip the armrest right-side up and inspect your work so far. Does it feel tight? Are there any wrinkles? If there is anything that doesn’t pass your inspection, remove the material and adjust it. After the next step, it will be harder and more aggravating to fix earlier mistakes.

Step 8

Place the armrest upside-down again and apply pieces of tape just inside each corner. Stretch and fold the corners of the material so that they overlap and contour the corner very tightly. Fold each one so that they stick firmly to the tape. When the corners are done, apply tape to the sides and repeat the procedure.

Step 9

Inspect the armrest cover once last time from above. The material should be stretched tightly around the entire perimeter of the armrest. The front corners should look round. Make sure there isn’t any material sticking out that could interfere with the cover’s opening and closing. If everything looks good, place the plastic panel back onto the underside of the cover and replace each Phillips screw.

Step 10

Take the newly-covered armrest back to the Explorer and replace the three Phillips screws that you left in the cup holder back into the hinge. Open and close the armrest cover to make sure it has clearance on both sides.

Preparing Your Home for Cold Weather

2014-01-28T06:29:00.000-08:00

As winter approaches it is crucial for homeowners to think ahead and perform simple preventative maintenance on their homes to avoid unnecessary and often expensive repairs. It is possible to complete the majority of these projects in one weekend.

Examine the exterior of the home and look for potential hazards like tree limbs hanging overhead that could fall and damage the roof or sides of the home. Trim any bushes have grown and are now making contact with the house. Make sure all doors and windows are sealed tight and if necessary, purchase new weather stripping and replace old worn out sections. If there is any existing damage to the siding on the house or the roof shingles, now is the time to repair these problem areas. Check the gutters and downspouts for debris and clean them thoroughly. It is a good idea to spray water into the gutters periodically or check them during a heavy rainfall for leaks and repair any problems that are found. If the home has a crawl space and is not equipped with automatic vents it is a good idea to invest in some. Otherwise close all the vents now to prevent low temperatures from freezing the water lines. If the home is not under a pest control contract, purchase enough pest repellent to treat the perimeter of the home to block unwanted pests that will soon be seeking refuge from the cold. Pay to have the heating system of the home inspected and serviced by trained professionals to prevent surprise outages that will literally leave you in the cold. Purchase a bag of de-icer to spread on steps and walkways and be sure that there is a shovel with a flat face easily accessible.

Inside the home, check all of the vents for obstructions and verify that each one is open. Blocking vents causes the heating system to work harder and waste energy trying to warm those areas. A programmable thermostat is easy to install and relatively inexpensive compared to the savings that long-term use will provide and it will maintain the home at a comfortable temperature based on the time of day. Wash some blankets and leave them folded in various rooms to encourage family and friends to cover themselves if the temperature is a little too low for their comfort. If the home has an attic with an access door, insulate that opening to prevent heat from escaping into the attic. Icy weather often brings power outages, so stock up on candles, flashlights, and batteries. If there is a fireplace available, be sure to have the chimney thoroughly cleaned prior to using it and gather and store enough firewood to heat the home for a few days. For areas where power outages are frequent, investigate the costs versus benefits of installing a gas-powered generator.

Purchase a supply of non-perishable foods including canned goods and some gallon jugs of purified water in case you find yourself unable to leave home for a few days due to snow and ice. A battery-powered radio may be used to listen for important weather advisories in case the television or computer are inaccessible. If anyone living in your home uses prescription medication or oxygen tanks that are crucial for their health, be prepared by keeping a little extra on-hand. Collect board games and think of ways to entertain family and friends in case they wind up trapped indoors together.

With simple preparation, your home will pass the cold winter months with ease and might give you and your family an opportunity to relax and enjoy the beauty of the season.

How to Reduce the Amount of Dust in Your Home

2014-01-14T06:22:00.000-08:00

The first step in reducing the amount of dust in your home is to understand what causes this problem. Dust forms due to a number of things, including pet dander, dirt particles entering from outside the home, the decomposition of upholstered furniture and clothing, insects and their waste, dead human skin cells that have been shed, and many others. Through routine cleaning practices and some preventative measures, all of these problems may be controlled to an extent.

Let's begin with the central air conditioning system if your home is equipped with one. It makes no sense to clean and dust while there is a large machine recirculating dust and spewing it all over the house. Make an appointment to have the ducts cleaned and in the meantime replace the air filter with a high quality filter that is rated for maximum filtration of dust and allergens. Regardless of the directions specified on the filter, replace it every month. Leaving an air filter in place for several months at a time in a home with a high level of dust will cause unnecessary stress on the central air system and result in costly repairs.

Now do a thorough cleaning of your entire home using furniture polish and clean cloths where applicable. Don't forget to dust ceiling fans, blinds, drawers, and cabinets. Clean every surface in the home where dust could settle. Be sure to wash all bedding materials and if possible wash your curtains. Mop all hardwood and laminate floors and vacuum all carpeted areas using a vacuum with a Hepa filter. Clean your shower and bathtubs. At least once a month, move furniture, including dressers, beds, refrigerator, clothes washer, and clothes dryer and clean behind and underneath them. As this is a time consuming and often strenuous process, it may be necessary to alternate one area of furniture a month and then another the next month. Cleaning behind these pieces of furniture just a few times a year is better than never cleaning behind them at all.

Verify that each entrance of your home is equipped with a mat for guests to wipe their feet on. If you own a pet, be sure to bathe and brush them frequently. Check for cracks and crevices in your home where air may be flowing from the outside and repair them. If your home is equipped with attic stairs, verify that the door is sealing properly when closed. Products are available now that may be installed on an attic entrance that seals the door when shut.

If the dust problem persists, invest in an air purifying machine. The ionic air purifying machines do not require replacement filters and help capture a large amount of dust from the air. Consider removing large area rugs and upholstered furniture from your home. Switching carpeted areas to hardwood or laminate flooring will also greatly reduce the level of dust in a home. Be sure to keep closets and drawers which contain clothes shut at all times when not in use.

Following these simple tips will reduce much of the dust in a home and will simplify the cleaning process in the future.

How to Make Christmas Lights Last Longer

2013-12-20T11:33:00.000-08:00

Decorating for Christmas is always exciting, but who really enjoys stringing 3000 lights onto a Christmas tree only to have to remove them a month later? The next year you pull out the same strings of light bulbs and half of them don't work. There must be a better way!

Many Christmas trees are offered as "pre-lit" trees, but those weren't always available. For people with non-pre-lit trees who only enjoy stringing Christmas lights for the first ten minutes, this article should offer some encouraging suggestions. First buy one of the long green extension cords with outlets positioned every 12 inches or so. These should be available at your local home improvement store and are made specifically for plugging in Christmas lights. The very last plug should be positioned within about a foot from the top of the tree and the remainder of the cord should run down the center of the tree. You may want to wrap the cord around the center pole of the tree so that it will stay towards the center and not stand out.

If you will be using an angel that requires electricity on top of the tree, go ahead and situate her on top and plug her in. Now, begin at the top and work your way down wrapping each branch with several Christmas lights. Pull the lights out to the end of the branch and wrap towards the center. Leave several lights loose in the middle near the center. You will appreciate the effect once the entire tree is lit and you see that the lights appear to be scattered within the tree and not just on the outside portion of the branches. Use lots of lights! Don't worry about how long it may take to remove them later.

Now, here's the best part, when Christmas is over, leave all of the Christmas lights on the tree! Remove the delicate ornaments and the angel and wrap the tree carefully with a blanket. Pick up the tree, lights and all, and move it to your storage building. Stand the tree up for storage. The reason for leaving the lights on the tree is because removing them contributes to the reason why they don't work the very next year. Most strands of Christmas lights will work if several of the bulbs burn out, but the entire strand goes out if a single bulb is loosened or removed. By carefully wrapping the tree in a blanket and then storing it standing up, you are protecting the bulbs from unnecessary pressure and movement. They will last for years. If some of the bulbs burn out, they may be replaced or fixed.

Tips & Warnings

Be very careful when moving the Christmas tree, not to bang it on the sides of a door or wall. That will completely defeat the purpose of leaving the lights on the tree and you will end up having to find which bulb is loose out of hundreds of them.