Home Made Couture

Patrones 317 and Manequim 638

2012-08-03T19:12:00.000+08:00

I'm spoilt for choice with Pattern mags in my mailbox this week. The summer vacation Patrones and a truly fabulous Manequim.

But first, for any Perth sewers, Potters Outlet Store is having a clearance sale. I don't have any affiliation with Potters, but I'm passing on their flyer as they are very nice and I haunt their shop.

"We are super excited to let you know about our clearance sale starting next week! This season in addition to our fabrics, we have also packed the racks and tables full of sample garments and end runs. Garments include winter knits, tees, tanks, summer dresses and pants.

SALE includes: 50% Off all Fabrics excl remnants; ALL Garments $5.00!

Monday 6th – Friday 10th August from 10am – 4pm and Saturday 11th from 9am – 12pm". The shop is at 12 Macewan Street, West Leederville (off Loftus Street).

Now, Patrones 317. Patrones always has 2 pics at the back - its next Special and next monthly edition. But not this month - it just has the Special. That isn't a bad sign is it? I'm always paranoid that my favourite fabric shops and pattern mags will close. I hope not.

For a review of this month's Patrones check out Curious Kiwi's site. Being the Vacation issue as you'd expect there are lots of summery patterns, particularly tops, shorts and pants.

I'm hunched in front of the heater while the rain pours down outside so Manequim has some more seasonal (for Perth) offerings this month.

The inspired by the style of a TV actress section has a useful loose cardigan (going on the 'to make' list) and wrap front dress.

And there are some truly fab dresses, including the cover dress and these two.

And lots of very nice separates.

There is even a section of glamorous evening looks.

Burda 4/2009 Tunic

2012-07-31T16:20:00.002+08:00

I'm still alive! I've been having an unusually long no sewing or internet phase, as you may have noticed from the lack of blog activity.

This is largely down to trips, busy weekends and putting on a few kilos and being in that zone where you don't like the look of anything you make but don't want to make a bigger size as it feels like you're inviting the flab to hang around permanently.

But I'm getting back into it as I'm seriously running out of clothes. So I've acquired a pile of Vogue and McCalls patterns from the recent BMV sale (they've had some terrific patterns lately haven't they) as well as the latest Patrones which I'll put on here in the next few days.

Before starting on some new work clothes, I've just been off on a wonderful trip to Bali. We were staying in a pool villa so an easy to make pool cover-up was in order (keeps the mozzies off too).

The fabric is a cotton voile which required careful pattern placement to avoid looking like an alien version of the Shroud of Turin.

For the pattern, there were a few possibilities in Burda Style, including Model 116B in May 2012. I had a go at this but oops...disaster (I'll get back to that later).

Or, Model 120 in Burda 4/2009. Much easier and quicker to make.

The pattern pieces for the 2012 and 2009 versions are almost identical except for the construction. The May version has a seam down the front (very bad idea on a thin fabric) and a tricky inset yoke (very, VERY bad idea on a thin fabric). The 2009 one has witchy kind of sleeves.

I ended up with a bit of both - the 2009 pattern but with the straight sleeves from the 2012 pattern. The facing for this one is sewn on like a normal facing but I did it the opposite way, where the facing ends up on the outside, and edge stitched it.

Mine doesn't look as glamorous as the Burda version. I made it slightly too big and sewed the neck split higher than Burda has it, a bit too high. But it is comfy and good for the beach.

Now to the bad version of the 2012 pattern. The 1st prob is my fabric choice - this citron silk habutae makes me look sickly. The 2nd is the construction method - an inset neck band, front seam and split on a light fabric is tricky. Mine went crinkly. I definitely prefer the 2009 pattern. Aaarggg... don't you hate it when you waste a nice fabric!

And to finish, some daily towel art from where we stayed in Bali. Awww...

Patrones 315

2012-05-12T16:00:00.000+08:00

My sewing output is so meagre of late I haven't had anything to blog about - luckily the latest Patrones is here. As is my loot from the latest Vogue/BMV sale including this dress which I'm hoping to try out this weekend.

Patrones 315 is the Summer edition - lots of light separates with a bit of a frilly/wild west feeling; and also some great dresses in the plus size section.

There's a section of frilly, floral separates and these 2 dresses.

A section on Denim and Lace.

This blouse is particularly nice.

That is followed by 'Fashion Trends' with the designer styles that they don't name any more (sadly) - this month they have styles from 'patchwork' to 'African rythms', 50s pin up, hawaiian, 1930s and urban safari.

And last but definitely not least is the plus size section, which is all dresses this month - and lovely dresses too.

Patrones 314

2012-04-05T01:30:00.000+08:00

The sewing machine is gathering dust. I'm waiting for inspiration to strike, it's a bit absent at the moment. But meanwhile here is Patrones 314.

First they have 'Original clothing', or natural toned casual summer clothes. I quite like this blouse but I guess you would have to make it in a very light fabric or it would be humongous.

This is an interesting shorts/skirt thingy. I'm not quite sure which - the back looks like shorts and the front looks like a skirt from the diagram.

"Sophisticated Basics' are up next. Black and white summer clothes and my favourite - anything that says 'draped top' and I'm a fan. The patterned fabric obscures the style lines - not sure if you can see the diagram. Wonder how it goes together. Any ideas? Maybe you sandwich a pleated piece into the front neck tuck.

There is a summer party dress section.

And a section on flouncy blouses.

And finally some larger size separates patterns with a couple of interesting jackets.

Butterick 5388

2012-03-07T22:38:00.000+08:00

Uh oh!

The disaster pile. 6 unflattering unfinished objects on the trot. 6! Some I can hopefully rescue, I just need to leave them be for the moment. Do you reckon there's a sewing equivalent of the gardeners' 'black thumb'?

Meanwhile I may just have to keep making versions of Butterick 5388. I've found my holy grail of summer top patterns. It's a super pattern. It's easy. It's very, very quick and IT'S FAIL SAFE.

Although... there are many things that you can happily make over and over again - like classics. But is this top one of them? I suspect not. I went and counted how many of this kind of style is in my wardrobe - 9! Not all from this pattern but similar.

So, here are 3 versions of Butterick 5388.

Potters Outlet store had a 50% sale recently, including this silk habutae for a nicely cheap $7 metre. It needs a simple style for anything this big-ly patterned, like...let me think.... ummmm.... Butterick 5388!

The fabric feels lovely on and it's comfy and cheerful.

I sewed a band on the bottom to make use of the border.

Here's version 2 - another silk habutae courtesy of the Potter's sale. This one is black with a dot print. I didn't have quite enough fabric for the collar so it is half the pattern width. The collar is cut on the bias so uses up quite a bit of fabric.

And version 3. No collar and in a snake print charmeuse from Textile Traders.

I'm currently making another one in a wince inducing citrus yellow - will someone do a pattern intervention on me soon and prise this pattern out of my hands? I can't stop!

Manequim 633

2012-02-14T23:27:00.000+08:00

February Manequim is my favourite yet! So many gorgeous designs. And a couple of the nice ones are in my size - even better!

Melissa at Fehr Trade has shown some of the patterns and here are a few more.

By the way, if you're interested in getting hold of Manequim I think you can usually get them on Ebay. There was also an Ebay seller called Jupeme who had lots of Brazilian magazines from whom I bought a couple but she seems to now be at mercado livre, which I think is a Brazilian form of Ebay. Otherwise, a subscription is $99 for 13 mags.

First up the usual designs inspired by TV personalities. This blue dress is great.

Then lovely bright blue designs modelled by an actress.

The usual 'inspired by a designer' section - this time Nina Ricci. This pale top is going on the Must Make Pile forthwith.

A section 'Sexy and Chic'. Wow, love this dress! Sexy and chic indeed.

A selection of shirts follow.

And a fashion for different ages special.

Very nice!

Patrones 312

2012-02-05T09:29:00.000+08:00

Are you a 'plan for the season ahead' sewer or more of a 'what takes your fancy at the time' sewer?

I was musing on this when the Vogue Patterns Magazine (Christmas prezzie subscription from my sister) arrived the other day showing the new spring patterns, along with Spring Patrones #312.

Whenever the season changes I have a 'aaarggh.... no cold/hot weather clothes to wear!' crisis so I'd love to be the plan and make in advance type but never manage it. I'm definitely a spur of the moment sewer. But there are far more organised sewers out there and I'm envious!

Mind you, it's a bit relative in Australia as we are always out of sync with the Northern Hemisphere pattern cycles so the new Spring patterns are arriving in mid summer, which is quite good.

Patrones 311 hopefully is still on its way. So what is in Patrones 312? The Spring special.

The first section is asymmetric styles - 3 dresses and a top and trousers.

This dress is fabulous. Another COS brand one.

The next section contains the designery patterns - the ones they no longer name (pity - I used to love those) although do I spot a Chanel button on those sequinned shorts? Nice blouse.

Next blouses and pants.

Love these trousers.

There is a section of I guess nautical things including this jacket.

The larger size section has an overblouse, trousers, cotton dress and this outfit.

And last but not least communion clothes.

Vogue 1217 and Burda blouse 10/2011

2012-01-24T23:25:00.000+08:00

Any readers who live in a cold climate.... can I come and live with you? Help! The weather forecast here for the next week is 40 degrees celcius, 41, 39, 42, 40, 40, 40. It's ghastly HOT.

In dire need of hot weather clothes a quickish cotton top was the go. This fabric is so loud I wasn't sure what to make out of it but eventually picked Vogue 1217, an Anna Sui dress pattern.

I just realised there are only 2 reviews of this pattern on Sewing Pattern Review - and one of them is by me. When it came out I assumed it would be quite popular so I'm surprised. Good job I'm not a Vogue pattern picker, I'd never have a clue what would sell.

Anyway, it's a nice pattern - give it a try. Maybe it's better as a top than a dress? In fact the dress pattern is so mini it doesn't take much to make it a tunic!

This is the version I made a while ago. Oh how I loved this top until I managed to put a giant rip in it one day!

It's meant to have a fabric frill attachment but in this print it looked like my chest was exploding.

The fabric is a light cotton from Potters Outlet store.

Now for a not at all summery and not very successful blouse from Burda 10/2011.

I think I went wrong with the fabric choice. Black charmeuse (too heavy) and a black silk georgette remnant for the frilly thing - not too sure what to call it but mine looks disturbingly like a built in napkin.

But the magazine photo looked so nice! The Burda version was in 2 layers of georgette and the napkin was in a single layer. With the benefit of hindsight, this one really needs a very light fabric.

The napkin is a rectangle with a narrow hem (or left raw if you like the deconstructed look which Burda did). A 'V' is staystitched.

Then the V is basted on either side of the neck point.

You then do your facings or binding and placket as normal.

The last time I went to Melbourne I came across these little covered snaps and used them for the closures.

Back to the aircon for me!

Manequim 631

2012-01-04T01:54:00.000+08:00

Hope everyone had a fantastic Christmas and New Year!

Back to work for me today after a nice few days break. Blah! But a treat was awaiting after I moped home. The first of the new Manequim subscription.

The last one ran out mid year but I made a meal of renewing it. I emailed the renewal form (3 x), posted the renewal form (2 x) and finally faxed it. In the midst my credit card expired and I re-translated the form and realised I had filled it in wrong. Aaarghhh!! By the end I was going to renew that subscription or die trying!

So, what is in it? Lots of summery things and big on dresses. They have some freebie patterns too. First up a tiered skirt, shorts and cotton dress inspired by a young TV actress.

Then the dress section modelled by I think another TV person? This is elegant.

Next up beachey clothes including this light cotton top.

The next section is 'Summer Fabrics'. Culottes, a blouse, maxi dress, 2 pairs of pants and a summery top. Funnily there are a couple of things in this Manequim that I'm sure I've seen in earlier editions but in different fabrics. Including this dress.

A section of white clothes follows. A maxi skirt, shorts, 4 simple dresses - full-skirted, racerback maxi, shift and long wrap styles, wide legged trousers and this top.

My favourite in this magazine is in a larger size dress section.

And last but not least, if you are going to be needing a formal dress in the near future, Manequim has a new freebie at Manequim patterns, as well as some others that have been up for a few months. The new one:

And the older ones.

Patrones 310

2011-12-21T00:16:00.000+08:00

Happy Christmas!

And here is the Festive Season Patrones - of black clothes. That's unusual isn't it? A little gloomy but very practical.

As you would expect, lots of dresses for the party season.

Ok, here we go. The first section is cocktail dresses. I love this one but...cough.... it takes 17.05 metres of fabric! Look at the interesting cutting layout.

This little jacket is nice too.

This one is a bit dubious though.

Next we have Rebel Without a Cause which I think is party separates with a Western feel. A strappy dress, singlet, 2 suit jackets, bustier, jumpsuit, tie neck blouse, frilly lace blouse, baggy crotch pants and this frilly blouse, waistcoat and skirt.

And next Tango Attitude, which has a lingerie-ish feel. 3 petticoatish dresses, a waistcoat, jacket, top, topper and skirt.

And these very smart looking trousers.

Next (the best bit I think) is a section on Little Black Dresses. 8 in all, with different styles and some very smart ones. My favourite is the draped black dress below. Isn't it nice?

And finally - colour! The larger size section with 3 dresses including this lovely red one.

The next Patrones is the advance Spring.

Have a lovely time everyone!

Blouse 109 Burda 8/2011

2011-12-12T20:35:00.000+08:00

Calling Darby! The Patrones you won is still here. If you email me by the end of the week I'll send it on to you.

I've been a bad, bad blogger and blog reader!

There hasn't been much sewing mojo around my sewing room for a while. After a few things on the trot that went awry and looked awful, I decided to hang up the scissors of doom for a while and concentrate on other things (mostly blobbing in front of the TV). But it's time to get over it - I'm running out of summer work clothes.

Moderately successful is blouse 109 from August Burda.

It's a lovely design. It's a very basic pattern with the addition of a raw edged frill. My frill is slightly less frilly than it would normally be as I didn't have enough fabric to cut it fully on the bias but it looks fine. There are a few blouses in the same mag made out of this pattern.

I used navy silk charmeuse. The body is made on the non shiny side.

The blouse is quite roomy so I didn't do a full bust adjustment.

It was a lot longer in the back than the front. I had to shorten the back a bit as it looked weird.

The frill is raw edged and I suspect you need a rotary cutter to get the edge looking totally straight. The blouse has rather interesting concealed buttons.

I didn't follow the Burda instructions as their way of neatening the frill sounded a bit fiddly. I did the hem last rather than first and made the frill in the following way.

Sew along fold line on right side.

Trim, turn and sew.

And then when you turn the facing back and sew a line to create the placket, it looks like this.

Something colourful next time methinks. I bought these great cottons a little while ago at Potters Outlet store. Yummy. Now... what to make?

Patrones 309 and the winners

2011-11-16T20:12:00.000+08:00

Ta Da...... the winners of Patrones #308 are:

Gypsy Love

Darby

and Katherine H.

Yes, I lugged not 1 but 3 extra copies back from Spain. Congratulations to the winners and if you send me your details, I will put them in the mail for you forthwith.

A couple of people mentioned the weirdness of my comment settings in the last post. I'm afraid I'm stumped how to fix it. I'd prefer that it be like other blogs where the comments are shown under the post on the main page. I've played around with the settings but can't get mine to do anything but the current set up. I'm mystified.

To leave comments - if you click on the pink post heading above it will take you into the page with the comments and the comment form. So I'm afraid the comments arrangement is not very user friendly, but I do love comments and I'd love to hear from you!

Patrones 309 arrived yesterday. Has Patrones been a tad drab of late with some dubious styling or am I imagining it? Mind you, Patrones #309 has some patterns I will surely make.

They first have a 'Rustic Elegance' section with this dress and a top, plaid anorak and jacket.

Next we have neutral coloured urban styles and oh yay, a couple of patterns from the COS brand. I always look out for those ones. They are usually a bit different and interesting.

This section has the 2 coats shown plus 4 pairs of trousers, 4 jackets, long shirt and a couple of blouses.

Next up is Trends, which includes a couple of waistcoats, shirt dress, blouse and a suit.

Hmm to the boots but this dress is quite interesting when you look at the line drawing.

The next section is rainwear. It's not often you see a pattern for a rain poncho. There is a lovely single breasted trench coat too.

There is also a good section on pencil skirts with 7 different styles. I really love No. 37 below, check out the details in the line drawing.

Last but not least is the Plus Size section with 3 winter coats including this lovely red one.

Next months magazine looks like it is the Party Frock edition.

Patrones #308 Blouse and a giveaway

2011-11-02T20:41:00.000+08:00

It's time for another giveaway - Patrones #308. If you entered for the last one (#307) but were unsuccessful I'll add you into this one. Otherwise, make a comment expressing your interest before midnight next Wednesday Perth time and you'll be in the draw.

Summer has arrived as has the need for some new work clothes. I've made a couple of things from this Patrones. The first is Model 32 worn with skirt with tucks 14. I'll review the skirt in another post but here's the top in a black, white and red silk.

This is in the plus size patterns which are from Patrones sizes 50-58. I figured it is meant to be loose fitting in any case so used a very untechnical method of leaving off the seam allowances all over and taking a couple of centimetres off each of the side seams to grade it down. It seems to fit ok.

This is an easy top, well except for the collar which bamboozled me. I'm sure there is a sensible way of making the collar that has escaped me but with for anyone else who is making this top this is how I made it, copied off a RTW top. First the right hand side.

Is this making any sense?

Now the left hand side. Make loops.

And then finally sew to the neck.

And finally hand sew the turned under edge to the neck seam. So it ends up looking like this.

I'm very happy with this one and now onto making another blouse from this Patrones.

And the winner is....

2011-10-23T22:09:00.000+08:00

Thanks to those of you who expressed an interest in a copy of Patrones 307. I actually have 2 to giveaway so the lucky 2 winners are.....

But for those who didn't win, fear not! I've got a couple of Patrones #308 which I will be giving away shortly and I will add your names into that one.

Meanwhile, I've been making a couple of versions of this blouse from Patrones #308 in dribs and drabs. It's a lovely pattern. Fortuitously it is a long weekend in Perth this weekend so I just might manage to get something finished.

Patrones 308

2011-10-14T21:47:00.000+08:00

Hmmm.... I usually love the autumn and winter Patrones the most out of the year, but so far Patrones' autumn is looking a bit on the drab side, or am I just imagining it?

The first section is Autumn dresses. This one is quite simple and stylish.

I did, however, have a chuckle at this hat.

Next we have 'Cool basics' which are casual separates. I saw quite a few of these baggy crotch trousers when I was in Spain, but only for the very young and slim I suspect.

One of my 2 favourite patterns in this magazine is the skirt below.

The next section is Blouses & Co. with 5 blouses/shirts, 4 pants and a waistcoat.

And there is quite a big larger size selection in this mag. 5 blouses, 1 dress, 2 jackets and 3 pairs of pants. This contains my other favourite from this magazine.

This is the blouse I kept trying to recreate! Or very, very much like it. I bought a Zara blouse last year, which I loved but it split at the seam. The Patrones top is a different brand but isn't it similar?

This is definitely going on the 'must make pile' for our Aussie summer.

And next is the advance winter issue. I hope it isn't a bad sign that it is the 3rd grey cover in a row!

Fabric shopping in Madrid - Part 2 and a giveaway

2011-10-08T19:58:00.002+08:00

Back home again! I was very sad to leave Spain, which I absolutely loved, but oh isn't it nice when you get to sleep in your own bed again after a trip. And not having to wear the same few clothes over and over. Bliss.

I managed to come back with quite a few pattern magazines stuffed in my suitcase! So a giveaway - leave a comment expressing your interest in Patrones #307 by midnight next Saturday (Perth time) and it can be yours.

And if you miss out, I have a couple more which I will be giving away in upcoming posts, plus the larger size Patrones special, plus the new Autumn Patrones which I'll review in the next couple of days.

Thanks Rosy of Sewingadicta for your comment on my last post. I had been wondering about the disparity between the availability of pattern mags and the cost of the fabric I was seeing. The availability of Patrones, Burda and other sewing mags on the news stands suggested that sewing is popular in Spain. But then the fabric shops seemed to be quite expensive.

The continuation of my Madrid fabric shop tour did start in an expensive spot generally - the swanky Salamanca district. This was worth going to just for people watching. Never have I seen so many gorgeously clad folks at one time.

Starting at Retiro Metro station I had a great window shop up Calle de Claudio Coello. After a perusal of the display in Christian Louboutin and realising how high Posh Spice's shoes must actually be, I came across the above shop making fascinators and selling trims and buttons.

And another one.

I spotted COS and had a browse. A clothes shop not a fabric shop, but Patrones often has interesting patterns from this H&M brand.

Carrying on to the intersection with Calle de Don Ramon de la Cruz I chucked a left and headed for my destination 'Tejeduria de Don Ramon de la Cruz' at no. 14. Great photo (not) but this is sort of what the outside looks like!

And unfortunately, that is all I can tell you as oh dear, it was shut! Yes it was either siesta time or not open on Saturdays. But it is there on the 3rd floor.

The internet suggested it focused on high end fabrics and seeing it is surrounded by designer shops I imagine that is so.

Yes, this fabric shopping expedition was so far not involving a lot of fabric was it? Empty handed I hopped back on the Metro to the city centre and headed for the next shop Ribes and Casals.

On to the phone pics. Am I alone in feeling naughty taking photos inside shops?

Ribes y Casals has a large selection and is far more affordable. And just a couple of doors down on Calle Atocha is Tejidos Paredes. Also quite sizeable.

And for the last of my fabric shop photos! Not in Madrid but in Seville. Gorgeous fabrics but very high end as you can see by the price list.

Fabric shopping in Madrid - Part 1

2011-09-29T18:32:00.000+08:00

Aaahhh Spain. Great people, beautiful scenery, fabulous food, vino and Patrones at every news stand. What more could a sewist want?

I must be an obsessed fabric shopper as I´ve been taking photos of fabric shops as I´ve been coming across them, although I hadn´t spotted that many. This was on the main shopping strip in San Sebastian.

Time to rectify the situation, so Metro pass in hand, I went on a tour of those Madrid fabric shops I could find. Oh for a Madrid shopping guide who sews! But in his/her absence an internet search made do.

I'm not pretending this was a very successful fabric trip as you will see but I did check out quite a few fabric shops.

The 1st port of call was Cadena at Calle Reina Mercedes, 5. I got mightily lost as soon as I got out of the Metro, but it turned out to be a few minutes walk from the Alvarado Metro stop. I got to the address and thought 'huh?' as this is it.

But continue round the side of the building and along the unsalubrious back and voila - the shop!

I've vaguely heard of Cadena magazine but I have to confess I don't know much about it. Do the magazines just display their fabric range and don't have patterns? Lovely fabrics but woo! Very expensive. I couldn't find anything under 49 euros a metre which was for a jersey knit.

Empty handed I Metro'd my way back to the City centre and Gran Via station and visited Julian Lopez at Gran Via 27. Mercifully easy to find.

It's quite a big shop with very formal looking gentlemen cutting the fabrics. There's a wide array of fabrics with a focus on formal fabrics and brocades. There were some nice blouse weight silks that took my eye but hmmm...still 29 to 40ish euros a metre.

There were some wonderfully wild fabrics too. I wonder what you would do with the third from the left below? It was net with folded strips of studded leather.

I think Julian Lopez has shops in other Spanish cities too. I also came across their shop in Seville.

With the spotty fabric room for flamenco dress fabrics.

But back to Madrid, my next shopping destination was El Cortes Ingles. This department store chain sells everything under the sun, including in the case of the main Madrid store at Puerto del Sol, fabrics and haberdashery.

I managed to leave my camera battery and phone in the hotel so no pics but in a corner of the 2nd floor is a small fabric and knitting wool section. There is a reasonable selection of practical fabrics and a small stash of lovely silks but again - very expensive at 59 euros a metre.

More of my fabric shop expedition in my next post.....

Patrones 307

2011-09-17T04:58:00.032+08:00

Greetings from London!

Yes I'm a bit further afield than usual. I'm off to Spain with a stopover for a few days in London on the way.

Spain is going to involve lots of train journeys so I'm travelling light and avoiding buying anything. That has been a challenge in London but I´ve managed one sewing foray. A while ago I bought some fancy press studs online from MacCulloch &Wallis. They have some lovely notions on their Website so I wanted to visit their shop and in the end, came across it by accident.

Sometimes the online shopping website can be quite different from the real shop. The website is very up to date but the shop feels far more traditional. There are 3 small and tightly packed floors; the 1st fabrics, the 2nd bias bindings, buttons and notions, and the top trimmings. Did I buy anything? Umm no. I was rather tempted by more press studs, saw the long queue and slunk away.

Just as I was leaving home for the the airport the postman delivered this month's Patrones and I shoved it in my bag. In retrospect taking a Spanish pattern magazine TO Spain is a bit weird. This is the advance autumn edition.

A rather conservative one this month. Lots of coats and some shirts, summery tops and girls and boys clothes.

'Autumn breeze' is described as 2 short coats, a knee length skirt and 2 blouses perfect for cooler days. Not that you could probably tell from my photo, but the coat above is interestingly shaped with sectioned sleeves.

The next section is Urban Girls with city work styles.

Next up 'New Coats'.

There are 3 summery tunics.

And 3 dresses with the theme of retro prints.

And last but not least, some shirts and trousers for girls and boys.

I'll be keeping my eyes peeled in Spain for the next Patrones which is the full autumn issue.

McCalls 6288 tshirt and Burda 7/2011 trousers

2011-08-28T18:06:00.000+08:00

A croaky groan..... I've had the cold from hell for the last 2 weeks. Explaining why all I can make just now is clothes for lying on the sofa.

First up McCalls 6288 View C/D - the big, baggy tshirt. The front of the tshirt is in 9 sections.

The grey version is in a thin modal spandex from Potters Textiles Outlet store. It is a very large tshirt style. I made a size 14.

The pattern calls for french seams on the front panels. That sounded a bit boring on this so I sewed the seams on the outside using wooly nylon on the bobbin, and then using a double needle, sewed down the seam on the outside. When you wash the top the edges curl round.

The black version is also in a modal spandex jersey. This one is made the way the pattern suggests and the panel in the middle is a drapey silk. I'm not sure that was very successful as it isn't stretchy enough for the other fabric. Oops.

My only issue with this tshirt is that my shoulders are narrow and this has a very wide neck, which was even wider in a very thin stretchy fabric. I had to try and pull in the neckline quite a bit with the neck band and sew on strap holders which makes it look rather crinkly round the neck.

And for the bottom half - the baggy trousers from July Burda (worn above in the photo with the grey top). Burda make them in a number of permutations from batiste to jersey. They are basically a peg leg trouser with a wide jersey band instead of a waistband.

On the plus side these have to be the easiest and quickest pants in the world to make. On the minus side, they aren't terribly flattering on short people like me. But my, are they comfortable! My version are in silk charmeuse with cotton/spandex band. My advice would be to make them in something very thin and drapey or they make your hips look huge.

I had to take in a cm on the side seams and a fair bit from the waist band as it was too loose. Otherwise, I can see myself wearing these heaps at the weekends.

Burda 5/2011 Model 103 and the new plaything

2011-08-15T23:44:00.000+08:00

It's time to part, old cantankerous ElnaLock! It's been a long relationship. I wish I could say it had been a harmonious one. But I can't. You've chewed your last tshirt. Even a service didn't perk you up.

After the final chomping, I gave up and paid a visit to Kennedy's Sewing Centre in the city. I found this second hand Bernina overlocker. If only I'd known! There is a world of smooth, snagless overlocking out there.

Ooh it's nice. I love the thread catcher thingy too. Very useful.

Meanwhile, something without any overlocking. Sorry for the fuzzy picture.

Eked out from the remnants of the rather disastrous Burda July bias top (see below for the black version on me), this is Burda 5/2011 with the sleeves from the Butterick 5561 top I just made - with the cute tuck.

Now I wasn't very on the ball when I made this. First - the underarm sleeves. I measured the length of the seams and armholes and thought "how convenient - they fit". And then realised when I attached them that they fit if the sleeve underarm seam is an inch out of alignment with the bodice underarm sleeve. But then again how often are people going to be looking at ones underarm seams?

And the second 'not paying attention' feature. I did the pleats the wrong way. I think from the photo in the magazine the middle pleat is meant to be on the outside rather than the inside. I may unpick the neck a bit and redo them if they bother me.

The only other difference is that I used a bias strip on the neck rather than the facing.

This is a nice pattern and super easy top. No surprises here. The pattern is rather long, that is the only thing I can think of. The fabric is a silk satin from Textile Traders.

The prototype, made in a poly remnant is made as the Burda pattern. The fabric makes me think of printer ink commercials. It needed a bit of tweaking - I needed a full bust adjustment as it rose up at the hem, and my facing didn't sit quite flat so I decided to do the bias edging instead.

And finally....I took a photo of the bias top from July Burda. Bit shapeless and unflattering isn't it. After seeing the lovely versions by We Love Sewing and Slapdash Sewist who, unlike me, sensibly rejected Burda's advice to cut it on the bias, I think straight grain may be the way to go.

Butterick 5561 top

2011-08-07T21:53:00.002+08:00

Ah bliss.... in contrast to the tussle with the not-at-all-easy 'Easy' Burda top in the last post, Butterick 5561 is a dream. I bought this pattern some time ago but had never tried it. It's definitely worth a try.

Envelope Description: Loose fitting tops have front neckline gathers, raglan sleeves with shoulder darts and deep front pleat. I made view A with short sleeves with pleats.

I plan to wear it with narrow black trousers rather than a skirt but they were in the wash for photo time.

I made a 16 but would try a smaller size next time as it is a very roomy top.

It takes 1.3 m of 150cm fabric. I've used a silk charmeuse that was a find on half price sale at Textile Traders Balcatta.

The front has a fold and gathering.

Particular likes: It's very easy and quick to make and needs next to no fitting. And the sleeves are very cute with an interesting tuck feature at the hem.

Dislikes: As a matter of pattern drafting the front gathering is clunky. You make the large fold then put the gathering stitches through the 3 layers. So you end up with a very thick gathered piece. I had to catch stitch under the fold where you can't see the stitches, to get it to lie flat.

My one other reservation was that I maybe didn't do justice to the fabric. The back looks so nice. The pattern is probably best for plain fabrics or the fold and gathering get a bit lost.

I'll definitely be giving this pattern another outing.

Burda July Model 105

2011-07-31T17:00:00.000+08:00

Do you ever go to sew something marked 'Easy' only to find that it is the Venus Flytrap of sewing time?

And after spending days and days making it, it has the nerve to not look very nice on. Sigh.

The Exhibit: July Burda model 105. How innocuous it looks. Don't be fooled.

I thought so! I'm not imagining it. It has a sign for 'Easy'.

On the 'Easy' side it has only 3 pieces plus a hem band and facing strips. And Burda has the edges simply finished with zigzagging.

On the Non Easy side it is all on the bias. The Burda fabric is bias chiffon. Mine is a light silk charmeuse. It needs a very light, drapey fabric.

The actual sewing is relatively simple as you can imagine, but the issues I encountered were:

being cut on the bias the front and back pieces stretched madly and it needed a lot of taking in at the sides. I wonder if it would be better if only the front was cut on the bias?
From cutting out to finishing the bust dart points had slunk to the midriff and the sides had to be unpicked and darts repositioned.
Being bias the bottom kicks out, which is accentuated when you add the non bias band. It looked more like a frill so I gathered in the bottom of the bodice to fit the band. I suspect it would look better without the band altogether - this would require lengthening the pattern.
It does look better without sleeves.
I didn't read the pattern instructions and made a mistake - although not a problematic one. I'd assumed from the photos that the front flap was a pleat, however, I think the edges are meant to be open and hemmed.

The design also has its oddities. I suspect it would look better without the sticky out triangular bit (on the right below).

The front drape is held up by a dangly strip from the shoulder.

The black version isn't that good worn but ok and I'll wear it to work (I went outside to take a photo of it on, but my next door neighbours are entertaining on their verandah - much too embarrassing).

I made the mistake of trying a second version (unfortunately in a nice fabric).

The problem with this one is the bias. It fits very oddly, particularly at the back. Pulls in some bits. Sticks out in other bits. Sigh. This is disappearing into the Good Sammies bin forthwith.

I'm still not sure whether there is some potential in this pattern with modifications. I doubt I have the courage to try it again but maybe in a jersey with the back cut on the straight grain rather than the bias, the sticky out bit cut off and lengthened so that it doesn't need a band. What do you think?

Ah well, you win some...you lose some....

Manequim 625 July 2011

2011-07-18T22:10:00.000+08:00

I'm ashamed to say that despite loving loads of the styles in Manequim, I have made exactly ONE thing. In a year. That's a feeble effort isn't it.

And to add to the 'to do' list is Manequim 625.

First, some hippyish, romantic inspired styles from a TV show, including this blouse and dress.

Next up 'Neat and chic', including this nice top in 3 sizes.

The 'Inspired by...' section this month is Gucci. Love this dress.

Next 'Black & White' with a jacket, cullottes, summery top and this dress.

A section I don't think I've seen in a magazine before, but what a useful idea. Wedding looks, but not for the bride. Described as the best clothes for bridesmaids, mothers of the couple and guests, for different times and types of ceremonies.

I think the next section is 'Winter from North to South'. This coat looks quite plain until you look at the fabulously pleated sleeves.

And last but not least, love this whole outfit (only the pattern for the coat is in the magazine though).

Vogue 1098 Anne Klein jacket

2011-07-14T08:40:00.000+08:00

This is one of those projects that came out much better than I expected and I keep looking at it and thinking 'awww'.

The pattern is Vogue V1098, an Anne Klein style. Described as 'lined jacket has front and back yokes, two piece raglan sleeves with shaped lower sleeves, lower buttonhole opening along yoke seam and topstitching'.

I made this a few weeks ago but found I didn't have anything to wear it with. Gabrielle from Up Sew Late and I had a bit of an unofficial sew along. I love her blue version. From the pattern envelope the recommended fabrics are silk tweed, linen and denim but it seems perfect in a wool. It needs something with a bit of weight and not much drape

Anyone who also partook of the huge and wonderful selection of Vera Wang and Ralph Lauren fabrics on Fabric.com a couple of years ago may recognise the jacket and dress materials. The jacket is a RL eggplant wool melton and the dress is a charcoal Vera Wang poly jersey.

I did make some changes:

I left off the collar. Should have taken a photo of it before and after, but it makes quite a difference. Without the collar it looked sort of sculptural. With collar it looked like a vintage jacket...worn by Miss Marple. It may just be me but even on the model the collar looks smallish.
To take account of the lack of collar I made a facing and attached that to the lining.
The pattern has a buttonhole by way of a gap in the bottom of the yoke seam. For the rest this jacket screams for bound buttonholes. Knowing that my interest would have evaporated before the first buttonhole was finished mine has none of those lovely features - it has covered snaps.

Likes: The interesting sleeves. The lovely design lines. It has nice back and front yoke seaming. And it's very easy to make.

Dislikes: Actually, not a dislike, more a caveat. Given the shape and the fact that the sleeves are 3/4 length, it isn't the most versatile jacket. It needs something simple and long sleeved underneath.

I ended up making a version of the Vogue 1179 dress to go under it. This is another one of those perfect DKNY patterns.

As mentioned, this is made in a Vera Wang Lavender charcoal poly jersey. The sleeves are from Vogue 1194.

Patrones 306

2011-07-09T20:03:00.000+08:00

Despite having loads of perfectly reasonable patterns do you ever get obsessed with making the one pattern that you can't get your hands on? Burda Mags usually arrive here like clockwork - except for this month. I've got the fabric... the scissors are poised but ....no pattern. I really want to make this one.

Anyone else thinking that the July and August Burdas are looking quite promising? Well, maybe except the Dalek cape.

There may be no Burda but a Patrones arrived. The Vacation edition. As I'm currently huddled over the heater there isn't much for me here at the moment but for anyone needing floaty cotton dresses, this is your month.

First section is beachwear. A maxidress, the cover shortsuit, plain baggy tshirt, mini skirt and a couple of loose cotton tops. This dress is sweet.

Next 'Travel Light'. This dress looks really interesting when you look at the diagram.

The next section is nude, lingerie-ish dresses. There are a couple of nice layered looks.

6 holidayish cotton dresses. The blue one has potential.

The larger size section has some casual cotton pants and tops.

Finally a summer dress, dungarees, top and shorts for girls.

And the next mag is advance Autumn - yay! I love all the Autumn ones. Although 26 August does seem like a long time away.