Raleigh-area cabinet refinishing team @myrenewedcabinets kept those cabinets and changed their finish instead. The doors, drawer fronts, frames, end panels, island, and crown molding were prepared for spray paint rather than removed for a new kitchen installation.

White paint changes the balance of the room without changing the cabinets themselves. Shaker-style doors, crown molding, and glass-front uppers stay in place, while black knobs and cup pulls connect the new finish to the existing dark counters.

Brown Cabinets Surrounded the Window and Work Zone

Cabinetry extends from the dishwasher past the sink and up beside the window, with another tall unit reaching the ceiling. Painting changes this entire wall without moving the sink, dishwasher, countertop, or window.

The Cabinet Doors Were Staying

Closer to the sink, the existing Shaker-style doors and drawer fronts are easier to see. Their proportions already fit the kitchen, and the cabinets extend around the window without leaving gaps that called for a new layout.

Replacing them would have meant removing cabinetry that still worked. The project instead focused on changing the finish, keeping the doors, drawers, counters, appliances, and wood floor in place.

Spray Painting Starts With Covering Everything Else

Spraying cabinets requires more than taking off the doors. Counters, floors, appliances, walls, openings, and cabinet interiors are masked so paint reaches the exposed frames without coating the kitchen around them.

Blue tape traces the cabinet edges while paper and plastic isolate the work area. That prep allows the boxes to receive the same finish as the detached doors and drawer fronts.

White Paint Reverses the Dark Cabinet and Counter Combination

Once painted, the cabinet color flips while the dark countertops stay. Black cup pulls and knobs replace the long silver hardware, repeating the counter color across the white fronts.

Glass-front uppers also remain part of the design. Their frames turn white with the rest of the cabinetry, so replacing the cabinets was not needed to get a different look.

Existing Cabinet Details Become Easier to See

Shaker-style profiles stand out against the new finish, while black cup pulls mark the drawers and round knobs sit on the doors. None of those door proportions needed to change for the cabinetry to read differently.

Black Counters Now Frame the White Cabinets

Dark countertops once continued the weight of the brown cabinetry. Against white, the same surfaces create a defined line around the perimeter and across the island.

Wood flooring stays untouched, preserving the warm material that was already in the room.

Paint Reaches the Cabinets From Floor to Ceiling

Tall uppers, corner cabinets, crown molding, base cabinets, and island panels now share one finish. Keeping the existing boxes also preserves the storage configuration that already fit the room.

The Before and After Doesn’t Look Like the Same Cabinetry

Placed side by side, the brown stain almost makes the original cabinets read as a different kitchen. White paint brings out the Shaker-style frames that were harder to notice against the dark wood, while black cup pulls and knobs connect the cabinets to the existing counters.

No new cabinet configuration was needed to get there. Spray painting changed the surface people see across almost every wall, which is why the finished kitchen reads as more than a cabinet color swap.

Would you spray dark wood cabinets like these, or keep the original stain?

Image credits go to @myrenewedcabinets

The post They Spray Painted These Dark Wood Kitchen Cabinets Instead of Replacing Them appeared first on Homedit.

Instagram creator Melanie Cardon (@melaniecardon) used that small change in a bathroom with black walls, white subway tile, basketweave flooring, a wood vanity, and ornate gold accents. Instead of changing the toilet, she replaced its white seat with a dark wood version that brings another dark tone into the lower half of the room.

The White Seat Blended Into the Toilet

Before the swap, white porcelain and a matching white seat made the toilet read as one solid fixture. Dark color stayed on the wall above, while the wood vanity and gold frames brought warmer finishes into the room.

Replacing only the seat breaks up that white block without touching the tank, bowl, plumbing, or surrounding tile.

Dark Wood Creates a New Contrast

Dark wood now sits between the white tank and bowl, creating a contrast that wasn’t present before. Its brown-black finish also picks up tones already found in the vanity and black wall rather than introducing another bright color.

Because the seat occupies the center of the fixture, the change remains visible from across the bathroom despite its size.

The Rest of the Bathroom Stayed the Same

Shower glass, basketweave floor, subway tile, vanity, countertop, artwork, and black walls remain in place. Even the toilet itself is the same white fixture.

That makes the seat less of a renovation and more of a finish swap, much like changing cabinet hardware or a faucet to connect colors already used elsewhere.

Toilet Seats Don’t Have to Disappear Into the Fixture

Viewed from above, the dark seat reads as its own design element against white porcelain and black-and-white floor tile. Closed, it creates a broad dark surface rather than the thin outline seen when the seat is raised.

That contrast is what makes an object most bathrooms treat as invisible part of the room’s palette.

Dark Wood Connects More Than the Toilet

With the lid down, the dark wood becomes a broad block of color between the white porcelain and basketweave floor. Its brown tone also connects with the wood vanity, while its depth picks up the black wall behind it.

That makes the seat feel less like an isolated toilet accessory and more like part of the bathroom palette. Solid wood seats can bring warmth and contrast to white porcelain, but would you consider one a smart bathroom upgrade, or would moisture and mold concerns keep you with a standard seat?

Image credits go to @melaniecardon.

The post The Fast Bathroom Upgrade Most People Overlook appeared first on Homedit.

Homedit contributor Brittney Smart made the wreath with a 14-inch foam form, flat-head brass thumbtacks, and copper wire ribbon. Covering the ring took 14 boxes with 200 tacks each, bringing the total to 2,800.

Each tack goes straight into the foam, so the project requires no wood frame or complex assembly. The work comes from covering the curved surface without exposing gaps between the metal heads.

Thumbtacks Start in Overlapping Rows

First tacks form a line across the foam, with each round head overlapping the one beside it. Leaving too much space exposes green foam between the pieces.

Spacing matters because the tack heads need to cover the base without stacking on top of each other.

Straight Rows Don’t Work Around the Whole Ring

Wreath’s outer edge has more surface area than its inner curve, so neat rows start falling out of alignment as they move across the ring.

Instead of forcing a grid, new tacks fill the changing gaps while following the same direction around the form.

Each Tack Covers Part of the Previous One

Overlapping the brass heads hides the foam and creates the scale pattern visible in the finished wreath. Each new tack sits over part of the neighboring pieces without covering them in full.

Changing the overlap also helps the pattern follow the ring’s curve.

200 Thumbtacks Cover Less Than You Might Expect

One box contains 200 tacks, yet that amount covers just a section of the 14-inch form. Much of the green foam remains exposed after the first box.

Covering the sides as well as the front helps explain why the final count climbs into the thousands.

400 Thumbtacks Still Leave Most of the Wreath Bare

Doubling the count to 400 extends the gold section around more of the ring, but most of the wreath still needs coverage.

Working around each section from front to back prevents exposed foam from showing when the wreath hangs on a door.

Final Rows Meet at One Seam

As both ends of the pattern meet, the final tack rows interrupt the overlapping direction established around the rest of the ring.

Copper wire ribbon covers that seam and provides a hanger, turning the join into part of the finished design.

2,800 Thumbtacks Hide the Pool Noodle

Finished surface reveals almost none of the foam beneath it. Hundreds of overlapping brass circles catch light from different angles, giving the ring a textured gold finish.

From a few feet away, the individual office tacks become harder to distinguish. Would you guess there were 2,800 of them covering a foam ring?

Copper Ribbon Finishes the Fall Wreath

Copper ribbon loops around the wreath and contrasts with the brass surface without hiding the tack pattern. It also lets the ring hang without driving another fastener through the finished section.

Gold and copper suit fall decor, but changing the ribbon offers an easy way to carry the same wreath into another season.

The post A Pool Noodle Became a Fall Wreath, but It Took 2,800 Thumbtacks appeared first on Homedit.

TikTok creator Brandon Gentry (@brandontgentry) wanted a flower bed around a river-rock area in his front yard without digging out the sod. His solution started with flattened cardboard boxes placed right over the grass.

Cardboard isn’t there as a permanent landscape barrier. It blocks light from reaching the grass and weeds below while the material softens and breaks down under the new bed. That lets the existing lawn die beneath the surface rather than requiring it to be cut out first.

Existing Grass Stayed in Place

Gentry marked out a curved bed beside the house and around the existing river-rock area. Sod still covered the space, including the sections running against the lawn and around the evergreen.

Instead of removing that layer, he used it as the base for what came next.

Flattened Boxes Covered the Grass

Cardboard boxes were opened flat and spread across the planned bed, with pieces overlapping rather than stopping edge to edge. Bags of material helped hold them down while more cardboard was positioned around the curves.

Overlap matters here because exposed gaps can give surviving grass and weeds a path through the new bed.

Water Soaked the Cardboard Before It Was Covered

Once the cardboard covered the grass, Gentry saturated it with a garden hose. Wet cardboard conforms to the ground, stays in place, and starts softening before soil and mulch go on top.

The grass underneath is now separated from sunlight by a continuous layer rather than being removed with a shovel.

Cardboard Disappeared Under the New Bed

From above, the flattened boxes cover almost the entire planting area while the river rocks remain exposed. Their printed surfaces look temporary because they are: cardboard is meant to decompose rather than remain under the bed like plastic.

Once buried, the boxes become the hidden layer between the old lawn and the material above.

Mulch Covered What Used to Be Lawn

Finished sections show no cardboard or exposed sod. Brown mulch follows the curved edge beside the rock bed, covering the same ground that held grass at the start.

That is the point of putting cardboard underneath: it smothers the existing lawn while allowing the bed to be built without stripping away the sod first. As the cardboard breaks down, it stops acting as a separate layer.

The Grass Was Still Under There

Dark mulch finishes another section of the bed, leaving no sign of the cardboard boxes beneath it. The original lawn was never hauled away; it was covered and left below the new layers.

Gentry later shared an update showing flowers growing in the bed without grass taking it back over. Would you trust cardboard to kill the lawn underneath, or would you still dig out the sod first?

Image credits go to @brandontgentry.

The post He Put Cardboard Right Over His Grass Before Building a Garden Bed appeared first on Homedit.

Instead of changing cleaners, the solution was changing how long vinegar stayed against the stains. Paper towels soaked with distilled white vinegar covered the marked sections for hours, holding the liquid against the tile rather than letting it run off. After the first hour little appeared to have changed, but another hour removed the scuff marks and started breaking up the discoloration around the drain.

The creator behind The Birchwood Pie Project repeated the process with fresh vinegar-soaked towels on the stubborn areas, then tried the same method around a stained bathroom sink drain. Most of the buildup came off in both places, turning a familiar cleaning ingredient into a targeted soak rather than another spray-and-scrub treatment.

Hard Water Had Left Marks Across the Shower Floor

Brown discoloration had formed around the square drain and followed parts of the grout between the white hex tiles. Scuff marks were also visible farther across the shower floor, creating several problem areas rather than one spot that could be treated around the drain.

The buildup had developed over a few years despite the bathroom being cleaned each week. Other water stains had appeared around the bathroom sinks and across the glass shower door, making mineral deposits a recurring problem on several surfaces.

Her Shower Head Had Already Shown What Soaking Could Do

Mineral buildup was also visible across the handheld shower head, where pale crust had collected around the spray holes and outer edge. For this removable piece, soaking was simple: the shower head could come off and sit in a container rather than having cleaner run off its face.

The method used equal parts vinegar and water, with the shower head left in the mixture overnight. This worked because the mineral-covered surface stayed submerged rather than receiving a short application before the liquid drained away.

After the soak, the heavy deposits around the spray holes were gone, exposing the metal face and individual nozzles. The problem was finding a way to give the fixed surfaces in the bathroom the same extended contact without filling the shower with vinegar.

Paper Towels Kept the Vinegar Where the Stains Were

Instead of pouring vinegar across the shower floor and letting it run toward the drain, paper towels were spread over the stained sections and saturated. The wet sheets stayed against the tile and grout, holding vinegar over the same areas while the rest of the shower floor remained uncovered.

After about an hour, the stains still showed through the paper and the method appeared to have failed. She left the towels for another hour, then found the scuff marks gone and patches of the discoloration around the drain beginning to lift. The remaining areas received fresh paper towels and vinegar for another few hours.

The Shower Floor Looked Different After the Longer Soak

Once the towels came off, the broad brown marks around the drain were no longer dominating the white tile. A faint water mark remained at the edge of the former stain, but most of the discoloration visible in the before image had disappeared.

The result also explains why spraying vinegar had been less useful for this particular problem. A spray coats a vertical or sloped surface before running away, while the saturated paper keeps the liquid sitting over a targeted area for much longer.

She Tried the Same Method Around a Bathroom Sink Drain

Another pale mineral ring had formed around the drain in a white bathroom sink, giving her a smaller area to test after the shower floor. Rather than covering the entire basin, she concentrated the treatment around the stained circle.

Vinegar-soaked paper towels were layered over the drain and left in place for a few hours, keeping the liquid against the ring instead of letting it disappear down the opening. The towels could also conform to the curved area around the drain, something a flat soak could not do without filling the sink.

Most of the Ring Came Off Without Treating the Whole Sink

After the towels were removed, most of the pale ring was gone. A few small patches remained around the drain, but the source notes that they were hidden once the stopper was back in place.

The same approach can target a small mineral deposit without soaking the surrounding surface, but vinegar is not suitable for every bathroom material. The original project cautions against using it without first checking whether the specific surface can tolerate acid.

The Shower Door Needed a Different Approach

Hard-water spotting also covered the glass shower door, but lining an entire vertical panel with vinegar-soaked paper towels would have required far more work. She used the towels on some of the worst buildup, then turned to another cleaning product for the larger glass surface and finished it with glass cleaner.

The finished glass had lost most of the heavy spotting, though the creator could still see traces of a water stain in person. That makes the paper-towel method better suited to concentrated trouble spots—such as the shower floor and sink drain—than covering every mineral-marked surface in the bathroom.

Would you leave vinegar-soaked paper towels over hard water stains for a few hours, or would you rather use a cleaner you can scrub and rinse off right away?

Image credits go to: @The Birchwood Pie Project

The post Not a Scrub Brush or Spray: She Covers Hard Water Stains With This Instead appeared first on Homedit.

These chairs take that freedom in different directions. Some use oversized rolled arms or deep tufting, while others bring in metal bands, circular frames, saturated velvet, quilted leather, or a shell that wraps around the seat.

Matching the sofa would erase much of what makes these chairs interesting. Each one has a detail strong enough to stand apart from the larger seating around it.

Metal bands wrap around the entire chair

Wide bronze-toned bands run from the front feet across both arms and around the back of this beige chair. Quilted fabric fills the exterior side panels, while the seat and inner arms remain smooth.

Small gold emblems sit near the front of each arm, adding another detail that would disappear on a conventional upholstered frame. Even with neutral fabric, the exposed metal makes the chair look nothing like a standard beige armchair.

Tufting covers more than the back

Deep button tufting runs across the back and continues over both rolled arms of this gray leather chair. The arms curl inward at the front, creating two large padded rolls beside the seat.

Turned wood feet and a line of nailhead trim remain visible beneath the upholstery. Most of the chair’s shape comes from the amount of leather gathered into the back and arms rather than from an exposed frame.

The sides rise almost as high as the back

Wide green sides wrap around this chair and meet a back that sits at almost the same height. Horizontal seams divide the upholstery inside, while the exterior stays free of exposed wood or metal.

The seat sits deep inside that surrounding shell, making the chair look enclosed from the front and side. Its unusual feature isn’t ornament or bright color but the amount of upholstery surrounding one seat.

Blue velvet follows one continuous curve

Blue velvet sweeps from the back into both arms without a hard corner between them. The seat cushion stays broad and square at the front, creating a clear contrast with the curved shell behind it.

Slim tapered legs lift the chairs off the floor, while yellow pillows introduce the only sharp color change. No rolled arms, separate side panels, or exposed frame interrupt the rounded form.

This armchair is almost wide enough to be a loveseat

Oversized rolled arms extend far beyond the seat on this cream chair, while button tufting spreads across a broad curved back. The seat itself occupies less visual space than the upholstery surrounding it.

Soft, fur-like fabric covers the entire chair, including the rolled ends. Its proportions make it read less like a compact side chair and more like a one-person sofa.

Dark cushions sit inside a pale frame

Charcoal seat and back cushions sit inside a pale upholstered structure rather than matching the chair’s outer shell. The back cushion rises above the frame, while the seat projects forward between the light-colored sides.

Dark piping traces both cushions and makes the separation easier to see. Instead of changing color with a throw pillow, the chair divides its permanent upholstery into two contrasting sections.

Coral fabric is framed in glossy black

Coral upholstery covers the seat and curved inner back of these matching chairs, but a dark glossy frame follows the entire outside edge. Small gold-toned fittings sit where the frame reaches the front of each arm.

The black outline remains visible from almost every angle, keeping the coral fabric contained inside a separate structural shape. Neither material tries to disappear into the other.

Turquoise covers the chair from top to bottom

Turquoise velvet wraps around these chairs from the rounded backs to the low upholstered bases, leaving almost no visible frame. Cream piping follows the outer edges and circles the seat cushions.

The backs curve forward far enough to become the arms, creating a rounded shell around each seat. With no wood arms or tall legs breaking up the color, turquoise dominates the entire piece.

Red velvet and tufting cover the outer arms

Button tufting extends across the top and outside of both arms on this red velvet chair, creating a padded border around a smooth seat and inner back.

The chair sits on four slim legs, leaving the heavy tufted frame raised above the floor. Red fabric already draws attention, but the unusual part is how much of the chair receives the same deep upholstery treatment.

Diamond stitching gives this chair a car-seat look

Red leather is quilted into small diamonds across the seat, back, and upper arms, while a gray stripe runs down the center. Polished metal sections wrap around the fronts of the arms before disappearing beneath them.

A padded headrest caps the back, with stitching and metal trim continuing across the rest of the chair. Among this group, it is one of the few pieces where the details resemble an automotive seat as much as living room furniture.

Black rings replace conventional arm details

Two glossy black rings rise from the orange velvet arms of this chair, leaving large openings through their centers. The circles sit against a box-shaped upholstered frame, making them look almost attached after the chair was built.

Orange velvet covers the seat, back, sides, and rectangular arm supports, so the black rings become the first detail to break the color. Few armchairs use a complete circle where you would expect a wood rail, padded arm, or metal support.

Cylindrical bolsters sit inside ribbed leather sides

Tan leather forms tall side panels with narrow vertical channels, while cream upholstery fills the seat and loose back cushion. Matching cylindrical bolsters sit against both sides instead of conventional padded arms.

Round leather end caps finish each bolster with small metal ornaments at the center. The chair combines three distinct surfaces—ribbed leather, smooth tan leather, and soft cream upholstery—without making any of them match the sofa or other seating around it.

The post This Is the One Living Room Chair You Don’t Need to Match to the Rest of Your Furniture appeared first on Homedit.

Reddit user u/Kindly_Panic_2893 chose Garden in a Box, a program that packages groups of plants around planned garden designs. Their yard combines three collections: Painted Prairie, Shade of Summer, and Mountain Blooms.

The change went beyond replacing grass with flowers. Curved planting areas, rock paths, mulch, ornamental grasses, flowering plants, and a small water feature now occupy the former lawn, while the original straight walkway remains in place.

The Grass Came Out on Both Sides of the Walkway

Removing the lawn exposed a broad strip of soil from the driveway to the house. The existing concrete walkway remained as the center line, but the straight edges that once separated it from grass disappeared.

Instead of flattening the cleared ground, soil was added in places to introduce changes in elevation. The homeowner later described using existing soil mixed with fill dirt and clay to create contours across the former lawn.

Potted Plants Were Positioned Before Going Into the Ground

Containers spread across the bare soil show how the planting plan started taking shape before the plants went in. Taller grasses sit farther from the sidewalk, while smaller plants occupy areas closer to the front edge and paths.

The three Garden in a Box collections were not the only plants used. Several grasses and a few additional plants were added later to close gaps in the design.

Mulch Replaced the Open Soil Around the New Plants

Fresh plantings initially leave large gaps between one another, but the exposed soil did not stay bare. A deep layer of wood mulch covered the planting beds after the lawn was removed.

The homeowner used around four to five inches of mulch without landscape fabric beneath the planted areas. That layer helped suppress weeds while the new plants established and began filling the open space.

A Water Feature Became Part of the New Front Garden

One section near the house received a small rock-lined water feature instead of another planting bed. Flat stones create its edge, with larger rocks and new plants connecting it to the surrounding landscape.

The addition did more than fill an empty corner. The homeowner later reported seeing more pollinators and birds in the yard, with the water feature drawing birds into the garden.

Flowers Began Filling the Gaps Between the Young Plants

As the plants established, the spacing visible during installation began to disappear. Yellow blooms spread above the mulch while grasses and taller plants added height behind them.

Most of the original Garden in a Box plants survived their first growing season. The homeowner reported losing only a few plants, while many grew more than expected and produced flowers during the same season.

The Former Lawn Became a Layered Planting Bed

Later photos show what the original spacing was designed to accommodate. Plants now overlap from front to back instead of sitting as isolated specimens surrounded by mulch.

Low flowers cover the front edge near the sidewalk, medium-height plants occupy the middle, and taller grasses rise behind them. The different heights turn the flat lawn into a garden with visible layers from the street.

Gravel Paths Run Through the Planting Instead of Grass

Narrow gravel paths provide access through the garden without restoring strips of turf between the beds. Large stones define parts of the route, while plants spill toward the edges.

The homeowner found weeds more persistent in these paths than in the mulched planting beds and said weed barrier beneath the gravel was one change they would make if doing the project again.

Plants Now Reach Across Much of the Mulched Surface

Viewed from the house, the garden no longer reads as small plants inserted into a former lawn. Flowers and grasses occupy much of the ground, with mulch visible between established groups rather than across one open bed.

Drip irrigation runs beneath the mulch. Watering started more often while the plants established, then dropped to about once every six or seven days for 90 minutes as the season progressed.

The Water Feature Disappears Into the Mature Planting

Growth around the rock-lined basin changes how the water feature sits in the yard. Plants now rise behind and beside the stones, connecting the basin to the rest of the garden rather than leaving it as a separate object surrounded by bare mulch.

Birds were among the visitors that followed the change. Bees and butterflies also began appearing in a yard where the homeowner says they had not seen the same activity before.

Tall Grasses Added Height Where the Lawn Had Been Flat

Ornamental grasses create some of the tallest points in the finished landscape, with flowering plants filling the lower levels around them. Their height also breaks up the long horizontal view created by the sidewalk and driveway.

Not every plant came from the boxed collections, since a few grasses and other plants were added to fill remaining gaps.

The Concrete Walkway Is One of the Few Parts That Stayed the Same

From the street, the original route to the front door is still easy to recognize. The same concrete walkway cuts through the center, but almost everything bordering it has changed.

Grass once ran from the sidewalk toward the house. Now flowers, grasses, mulch, stone, and winding paths occupy that ground, showing what the “Garden in a Box” became once the plants had a growing season to spread.

Image credits go to u/Kindly_Panic_2893 

The post Their Front Lawn Wasn’t Working, So They Ordered a “Garden in a Box” appeared first on Homedit.

When Brittney’s husband opened the tank to make the repair, one part became the focus: the fill valve. It controls water entering the toilet, and a worn or faulty valve can cause problems with filling, water flow, and noise.

Replacing it meant working inside the tank and below it, but not removing the toilet. Once he shut off the water and drained the tank, he could disconnect the old fill valve and pull it out through the opening in the bottom of the tank.

Start by draining the tank

Shut off the toilet’s water supply, then flush. With the supply closed, the tank drains without filling again.

Some water will remain at the bottom, so place a bucket beneath the tank before disconnecting anything. That bucket becomes important once the valve comes out.

Disconnect the water line below the tank

Follow the water supply line to the connection under the toilet tank. Unscrew the hose from the tank, keeping the bucket underneath to catch water from the line and tank.

A mounting nut holds the fill valve against the bottom of the tank. Remove the nut, washer, and O-ring before trying to pull the valve out. A crescent wrench can help if the connection won’t turn by hand.

Now the entire old valve comes out

Once the mounting hardware is off, the fill valve lifts out from inside the tank. Water trapped around the valve can drain through the opening as it comes free, another reason to leave the bucket below.

Removing the valve leaves an open hole through the bottom of the tank. That single opening is where the replacement valve will sit.

Replacement valve needs to match the tank’s water level

Before securing the new fill valve, attach its refill tube. Valve designs differ, so the exact connection can change by model. On the valve used here, the tube pushes onto the valve opening to form a tight connection.

Height matters too. The valve isn’t meant to be dropped into the hole and tightened at whatever position it happens to reach.

Set the new valve inside the tank and compare its position with the toilet’s water-fill line. On this model, the valve extends or retracts until the corner of its top cover meets that line. Once the height is set, the valve locks in position.

The valve can then be secured with its mounting nut beneath the tank. The original installation calls for tightening that nut by hand rather than cranking it down with a wrench, which can damage the valve.

Refill tube has one specific destination

A clip attaches to the top of the flush valve and holds the refill tube where the water needs to go.

If the tube is too long, trim it rather than forcing it into a sharp bend. It should form a smooth curve from the fill valve to the clip without a kink that restricts water flow.

Final flush tells you whether the repair worked

Reconnect the supply line under the tank and turn the water back on. Let the tank fill, then flush several times.

Don’t check only whether the running sound stopped. Watch the supply connection under the tank for leaks, check water coming from the new valve’s refill tube, and make sure the tank stops filling at the correct water level.

If those three points check out, the fill valve replacement is complete. What sounded like a problem buried somewhere inside the toilet can come down to one removable part sitting in plain sight once the tank lid comes off.

The post Toilet Won’t Stop Running? This Part Inside the Tank Could Be the Reason appeared first on Homedit.

Reflective material has been used around plants to make them less attractive to some flying insects. Instead of light coming from above, the foil sends part of it back toward the underside of the plant, disrupting the visual cues insects use when approaching and landing.

For a houseplant, foil can be placed across part of the exposed soil or around the inside edge of a large pot. It shouldn’t cover the entire surface, since the soil still needs to be checked for moisture and accessed during watering.

Foil can have another job when cats find the pot

Houseplant owner Katherine Xaviera had a different problem. Her cat had claimed the middle of a large pothos pot as a favorite place to sit, leaving her looking for a way to keep the cat out without removing the plant.

Aluminum foil came up several times in the responses. One person suggested balled-up foil, another recommended crumpling it across the soil, and others simply suggested foil as the barrier.

That use has nothing to do with reflected light. Crumpled foil takes away the smooth patch of soil a cat can step into or settle on, while its texture and movement may make the pot less appealing.

Several commenters also pointed out a bigger concern with Xaviera’s setup: the plant was a pothos, so keeping the cat away from the leaves mattered as well.

How you place the foil depends on the problem

Keep foil flat when the goal is reflected light or a reflective surface around the plant. Crumple it across exposed soil when the goal is keeping a cat from climbing into a large planter.

Foil won’t replace treatment for an existing insect infestation, and it won’t make a plant safe for a pet to chew. Its usefulness comes from something much simpler: one kitchen material can change both the light around the leaves and the surface inside the pot.

Has your cat ever claimed a houseplant pot, and what worked to keep them out?

The post Houseplant Lovers Are Putting Aluminum Foil in Their Pots to Keep One Problem Away appeared first on Homedit.

Instagram creator Ffion from @ty_paent21 kept the existing cabinetry but changed its finish with Farrow & Ball Drop Cloth, a warm beige. The doors came off for prep and paint before returning to the same cabinet boxes.

Countertops, tiled backsplash, terracotta floor, double oven, sink, cooktop, leaded-glass cabinet door, and layout stayed. Removing the orange varnish was enough to make the same kitchen read in a different color palette.

Orange Varnish Covered the Raised-Panel Cabinets

Wood cabinetry surrounded the cooktop and double oven, with carved raised-panel doors extending across both upper and lower units. Decorative trim followed the cabinet tops, while dark handles stood against the orange-brown varnish.

Speckled counters and cream backsplash tiles remained much lighter than the cabinetry, putting most of the visual weight on the wood.

Matching Wood Continued Around the Corner

Cabinets on the adjoining wall carried the same varnished finish, including a leaded-glass door and open corner shelves. Matching crown molding connected the upper cabinets across the wall.

Lower cabinets, drawers, and shelving repeated the wood beneath the counter, leaving few breaks in the orange finish.

Cabinetry Wrapped Around the Sink

Another view shows how much of the kitchen was covered in wood. Base cabinets ran beneath the window and continued around both corners, while upper cabinets occupied the walls on either side.

The project kept this U-shaped arrangement rather than replacing the cabinet boxes or moving the sink, cooktop, or appliances.

Prep Covered the Orange Varnish Before Paint

Doors and drawer fronts came off the cabinets before refinishing. Primer covered the varnished surfaces, including the recessed centers, raised borders, and shaped profiles.

Working on the fronts separately also gave access to the decorative grooves that define each door.

Farrow & Ball Drop Cloth Replaced the Wood Finish

Farrow & Ball Drop Cloth was chosen for the new cabinet color. Instead of bright white, the paint has a warm beige tone that works beside the existing cream backsplash and brown floor.

The paint was prepared for spray application after the cabinet fronts received their prep coats.

Doors Were Spray Painted Away From the Kitchen

Detached doors were sprayed outside, allowing paint to cover the molded profiles and flat sections without changing their shape. The same arched panels visible through the original varnish remain part of the finished design.

Paint hides the wood grain, but the cabinet construction stays intact.

Beige Changed the Cabinets Without Changing Their Style

Once reassembled, Drop Cloth covers the upper cabinets, lower doors, drawer fronts, oven surround, trim, and plinths. The ornate door profiles remain, but the orange wood no longer competes with the cream tile and speckled countertop.

Double ovens, cooktop, backsplash, counters, and terracotta floor remain in their original positions.

Leaded Glass Stayed in the Cabinet Door

One upper door retains its decorative leaded-glass panel, now surrounded by beige instead of varnished wood. Open corner shelves received the same paint, connecting details that once showed exposed wood.

Painting the frames and trim along with the doors makes the existing cabinetry read as one continuous installation.

Same Layout, Different Cabinet Finish

From across the room, the original U-shaped kitchen remains easy to identify. Sink stays beneath the window, drawers remain beside it, and the cooktop and double oven occupy the same side of the room.

Drop Cloth now runs across each cabinet section, while the terracotta floor brings the strongest warm color into the finished kitchen.

Before and After Shows What Paint Changed

Terracotta floor tiles never changed, but they read differently once the orange varnish disappeared. Their warm color now provides the contrast that once came from the cabinets, while the beige finish connects with the cream backsplash and speckled counters.

Would you have painted the wood, or kept the original finish and changed the floor instead?

Image credits to @ty_paent21

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