Although they are slightly larger than ducks but smaller than swans, geese can also be raised as pets. These birds’ history can be traced back as far as 3,000 years ago.

Back in ancient times, the Egyptians kept geese domestically, specifically Asia’s swan goose and Europe’s Graylag goose. During the Middle Ages, these birds were one of the important sources of food and fat. Even the Romans and Greeks put a religious significance toward a famous tale of white geese in the temples of Juno.

Fast forward to these modern days, geese still play a significant role in human lives. If you have the intention of raising these birds, then you’ve come to the right place. This article will serve as the ultimate guideline to raising geese, both for-profit and as family pets.

Finding the Best Goose Breed

Domestic geese come in different sizes, shapes, and colors. Depending on your goals and objectives of raising these birds, different breeds may serve different purposes. Before we dive into each breed that is available in the United States, we’re going to take a look at the origin of today’s domestic goose.

All domestic geese breeds descend from one of two wild geese: the European (Western) geese that descend from the Greylag goose, and Asian geese that descend from the swan goose.

The American Poultry Association (APA) has recognized a few standard breeds that can be raised domestically. These include:

Most domestic goose breeds are raised for their meat. While some may produce both meat and eggs, there are also other breeds that can be raised for exhibition and ornamental purposes. When choosing a breed, it is important to look at their weight which could influence their purpose and function.

Goose breeds can be divided into three weight groups: heavy, medium, and light. Lightweight breeds may produce more eggs because the males can mate up to six females while males from heavy breeds mate with only two or three females.

On the other hand, heavy breeds can yield more meat and their carcasses weigh more than the lightweight geese. But most medium and heavyweight geese are considered good utility birds.

Aside from their physical and biological traits, you should also take into account their temperament and personality. If you want to raise geese as pets, then a friendlier and easy-going breed would be the best choice. But most breeders who are looking to grow geese on a large scale know that these birds won’t come into contact with humans very often. So, they won’t put too much focus on the temperament.

Finally, geese can also be raised for weed management and as guard animals.

Breeds such as Saddleback, Pomenarian, Tufted Roman, and Chinese are suited to be raised as guard animals. These birds usually make noises that are distinctive and much louder than other breeds.

Purchasing and Raising Goslings

For experienced breeders, there are no strict rules as to how large your flock of geese should be. But for beginners, it is always better to start with at least a pair of geese.

Buying adult geese is much easier than raising goslings, but hand-raised young birds will be more likely to form a strong bond with their owners.

When purchasing goslings, they need to be placed in a brooder with a surrounding temperature of 90°F during their first week. Then you can reduce the temperature by 5°F for the subsequent weeks until it reaches 70°F.

By six weeks, most goslings are fully grown and they can be released into a shelter or out on the range. The best time to purchase and raise goslings is in the early summer or late spring. The weather is warmer, drier, and favorable for these young birds to grow without too much assistance.

Setting up a brooder for goslings is fairly easy. You can use a dog crate or well-ventilated box with a heat lamp that serves to warm them at night or during cold days.

The brooder space should be at least half a square foot per bird and by two weeks, you can increase the space to 1 square foot. You should also use non-slippery mats or floorings to avoid your goslings from growing up with spraddle legs when they frequently slip on a smooth surface.

Geese tend to nurture and take care of their young very well. When you begin to breed your own geese, they should be paired at least one month before breeding season. Males generally will mate with the same females each year.

But there is no harm in having two or three females to avoid unwanted issues such as death or sickness that will inhibit their mating process. Females typically lay eggs in the early spring or late winter with an incubation period of around 30 days.

Building Shelters For Geese

Like many poultry birds, geese need proper housing to protect them from the elements and changing weather. Aside from a large roaming space, an indoor shelter will ensure that they have a proper place to sleep at night and lay eggs.

You can build a barn, shed, or any type of enclosed structure that is strong, weather-resistant, and properly ventilated. Each goose will need around 2 to 3 square feet of space.

The housing should be built near or on ground level. This is because geese are less nimble and will most likely have trouble jumping or walking on steep surfaces. At the entrance, you should also build a wide, sturdy wooden ramp that provides enough traction and prevents slipping.

The flooring is another thing to focus on when building safe housing. The larger breeds will need more traction to walk compared to lightweight breeds.

Some of the common types of floorings that you can use are concrete, dirt, and wooden floors. You can use concrete flooring that will provide enough protection from predators. However, this type of flooring must be covered with anti-slip mats or rubbery materials to provide enough grip and traction for the birds.

Wooden floors will provide enough traction for a certain period of time until they rot and warp, causing more maintenance over a long period of time. If you’re using dirt floors, you must also install additional structures that will protect the housing and your geese from predators.

You can build concrete trenches to deter digging predators or fences that won’t allow any large predators to enter the area. No matter which type of flooring you choose, make sure that it aligns with the overall structure of the shelter.

Aside from flooring, you should provide nesting boxes and dry beddings for your geese. Some of the materials that you can use for their beds are wood shavings, hemcore bedding, or sawdust.

If possible, avoid using hay and straw beddings. This is because these materials can get stuck in between geese’s legs, causing difficulties when they’re trying to walk.

At the same time, hay and straw can absorb the ammonia scent from the droppings and release harmful spores into the air. Finally, do not forget to keep the beddings fresh and clean from any moisture or dirt.

Geese don’t roost like chickens and other birds. So, they don’t need roosting bars to perch and sleep on at night. In fact, they will spend most of their time on the ground. Females geese will actively seek and use nesting boxes in their laying seasons.

For their nesting areas, you can use dog houses or hard plastic dog carriers with enough dry bedding in them. You can also use 3 straw bales to create a private nesting nook. Depending on the size of the flock and geese, you might have to adjust the space accordingly.

Last but not least, keep their living spaces well-ventilated and insulated during hot and cold seasons. In the summer, any indoor living space can trap heat, causing a sudden rise in temperature.

To cope with this issue, you can install industrial exhaust fans or basic circulating fans to deal with the hot air inside their housing. You can also build small windows that help with the airflow. However, always make sure that they are not too wide to avoid predators from entering through these windows.

During cold seasons, the surrounding temperature will drop and geese will need additional sources of heat. You can use radiant floor heating or ceramic heat panels. If you’re low on budget, you can install a few heat lamps. Be sure not to turn these lamps on for too long to avoid overheating, leading to sudden combustion and fire hazards that can hurt your geese.

Feeding Habits and Nutrient Requirements

Goose diets may vary depending on their growth stage. Adult geese have a different diet than goslings. This is because younger birds generally need more protein in their feed. During their first six weeks, you can feed goslings with starter feed that contains around 22 percent protein.

Some commercial starter feed might contain coccidiostats that can cause lameness or death in goslings. So, be sure to monitor for any signs of these antiprotozoal agents when buying their feed.

On the other hand, adult geese are excellent grazers and they generally prefer to forage. If you can’t provide them with a lot of grass, high-quality hay and fresh vegetables can be included in their diet.

You can also add grains and high-quality poultry pellets into their feed. Oats, wheat, and organic corn are some of the nutritious grains that can supplement geese with different vitamins that are vital for their growth.

If you raise geese on the range, feeding them with high-quality pasture should be your main focus. Almost any grasses or forages can be fed to geese except for plants that they don’t prefer such as alfalfa. Ideally, you should keep the grasses fresh, young, and less than 4 inches high.

When foraging, geese will also eat bugs, snails, slugs, worms, and other small creatures that could provide them with enough protein for their growth.

Finally, you should also cover their grazing area with fences to protect these birds from escaping or being attacked by predators. A 3-foot tall wire fence, electric fencing, or even fox-proof fencing is more than enough to keep them safe.

Slaughtering Geese for Meat

When it comes to slaughtering geese, the process is similar to butchering other poultry birds. They are suspended upside down, with their heads placed inside a killing funnel before the jugular veins on the left side of their neck are cut with a sharp knife.

The funnel acts as a restrainer to prevent these birds from flapping their wings. During the bleeding process, you can place a metal blood cup to prevent the blood from dripping on the floor.

Once the blood has completely stopped flowing out of their neck, you can manually pluck their feathers. This process might be difficult and time-consuming but it will increase the quality of the carcass.

Alternatively, you can also scald the carcass by dipping it in a hot water at a temperature of 140-154° F for one to three minutes to loosen the feathers.

Generally, large wing and tail feathers can be manually plucked by hand but the down and pin feathers will be removed with a wax dip.

A wax dip requires the carcass to be dipped in a wax bath for one or two minutes. Then, the carcass will be dipped in cold water to harden the wax before being again in the wax for the second time to create the second layer. Finally, after the second layer has been hardened with a cold water dip, the wax layers will be stripped using hands or a dewaxing machine.

Geese Diseases and Health Management

Geese are extremely hardy and resistant to many diseases. However, unfortunate events could occur from time to time and they might contract illnesses that could turn critical if they are left untreated. These are some of the most common diseases that can affect geese:

• Aspergillosis
• Avian Adenovirus
• Botulism
• Chlamydiosis
• Coccidiosis
• Cryptosporidiosis
• Derzy’s Disease
• Duck Virus Enteritis
• Erysipelas
• Flukes
• Fowl Cholera
• Leucocytozoonosis
• Listeriosis
• Mycosis of digestive tract
• Mycoplasma Infections
• Mycotoxicoses
• Nectrotic Enteritis
• Nematodes
• Newcastle Disease
• Parathyphoid
• Spirochaetosis
• Sinusitis
• Staphylococcocis
• Streptococcocis
• Tapeworms
• Trichomoniasis
• Venereal Diseases

Most of the diseases listed above can be controlled by taking preventive measures to ensure that sick birds are isolated and won’t infect the whole flock. However, you can also reduce the possibility of having to deal with these problems by taking these steps:

1. Always purchase your geese from certified, reputable breeders and make a thorough check before bringing the birds back home.
2. Avoid adding or mixing your geese with the birds outside of the flock.
3. Schedule a regular cleaning routine of the feeders and waterers.
4. Don’t mix younger geese with the older ones. This is because the younger they are, the more susceptible they are to be infected with diseases.
5. Bring geese for vaccinations and medical inspection whenever you see any signs of sickness.
6. Provide a clean and stress-free environment for your geese.
7. Don’t allow visitors to visit your farm or backyard without any protective clothing. If they have been to other farms in the last 14 days, then, it is best for you to not let them get close to your geese.
8. Be vigilant and monitor for any signs of sickness inside the flock. Then, isolate the sick birds immediately and away from the others.
9. Schedule a thorough cleaning and disinfecting routine of their housing and equipment.
10. If you intend to sell your geese, do not allow buyers to bring dirty or unsanitized crates and boxes onto your farm. It is better for you to provide them with your own clean containers.
11. Rotate the pasture and treat the soil with 5 to 6g of ferric sulfate per square meter.
12. Schedule regular deworming every three or six weeks whenever you notice that the birds have been living deep in their litter. Examine their droppings for worms or oocysts at least once a month.
13. Destroy or incinerate dead geese quickly after their death. This is to avoid any infection that could happen from leaving their carcasses around healthy geese.

Raising Geese With Other Animals

You can definitely keep geese with other birds such as chickens and ducks if there is enough space and forages for these animals. However, geese are slightly larger than chickens and you should always watch for any signs of aggression to avoid fights that can potentially hurt either bird.

But if you raise these birds and mix them with each other when they are still young, they can bond and mingle with each other for a very long time.

Avoid keeping geese with ruminants such as goats and cows. This is because these animals will consume geese feed and contaminate their feeders or waterers, which in turn can lead to poor hygiene and other sanitation issues.

Final Thoughts

Above all, raising geese in your backyard or farm is absolutely rewarding, both from the financial and emotional standpoint. Geese are easy to keep, self-sufficient, and nurturing toward their goslings. Raising these birds from a very young age will create an unbreakable bond that’s almost similar to raising house pets such as dogs and cats. This reason alone is more than enough to motivate you in raising your own geese!

Citations

• https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/raising-ducks-geese/goose-breeds-zm0z14fmzchr
• https://poultry.extension.org/articles/getting-started-with-small-and-backyard-poultry/selecting-birds-to-get-for-a-small-or-backyard-poultry-flock/selecting-a-goose-breed-for-small-or-backyard-poultry-flocks/
• https://www.therusticelk.com/raising-geese-on-the-homestead/
• https://practicalselfreliance.com/getting-started-with-geese/
• https://poultry.extension.org/articles/poultry-management/raising-geese-in-small-or-backyard-flocks/
• https://www.mofga.org/resources/poultry/raising-geese/
• https://www.timbercreekfarmer.com/raise-healthy-geese-backyard-farm/
• https://www.fao.org/3/y4359e/y4359e0g.htm
• https://opensanctuary.org/article/building-a-good-home-for-geese/
• https://www.chickens.allotment-garden.org/keeping-geese/housing-geese-pasture-safety/

The post Ultimate Guide to Raising Geese appeared first on Homestead Geek.

Historically speaking, pheasants have a long history that can be traced back as far as 2000 years and they have been in the United States for more than 200 years.

Pheasants were first brought into the United States in 1773, but they weren’t bred and commercialized until the early 1800s. More pheasants were imported from English game bird farms in the late 1800s and 1900s, causing their population to increase.

Fast forward to today, these birds have been introduced into 40 states. One of the pheasant species, the Ring-necked Pheasant has even been named as the state bird of South Dakota.

If you have a deep interest in raising these unique game birds, then you have come to the right place. This article will explain every little thing that you should know about raising pheasants.

How To Choose The Best Pheasant Breed

Different types of pheasants possess their own physical traits that separate one from another. But their basic necessities of living are generally the same.

Choosing the breed that can thrive best in your region and is easy to handle is quite important. You need to do your own due diligence before making a purchase.

It is estimated that there are around 49 pheasant species that can be found all around the world, but only a select few are suitable to be raised by humans. These include:

1. Common pheasant (Phasianus colchicus)

Common pheasants are also known as Ring-Necked pheasants. They are native to China and Southeast Asia but have been introduced to other regions such as the United States, France, the United Kingdom, and other European countries.

Males can be recognized by their bright blue-green head and white neck rings while females generally have plain buff-brown plumages. These semi-domestic birds weigh around 2.9 pounds and stand 21 to 36 inches tall.

Common pheasants generally stay on the ground and only fly when they have to. Their typical lifespan is between 10 to 20 months.

2. Brown-eared pheasant (Crossoptilon mantchuricum)

Brown-eared pheasants can be recognized by their unique bright gray-brown plumage, frosty gray-white rump, and dark tails. They also have bare red faces and legs, dark crowns, and long plumes of white ears.

These pheasants are endemic to mountain forests of China and categorized as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.

Brown-eared pheasants grow up to 39 inches tall and weigh around 5.5 pounds. Males and females are similar except for their body size. Females are slightly smaller than males.

3. Golden pheasant (Chrysolophus pictus)

Also known as the Chinese pheasants or Red Golden pheasant, these birds are native to the mountainous regions in central China and the forests in western China. They have also been introduced to other regions such as the United Kingdom, Florida, Hawaii, and many more.

These small pheasants generally weigh between 1.21 to 1.4 pounds and stand between 24 and 41 inches. Males can be characterized by their golden crests, long tails, and bright plumages that come in different colors such as red, blue, mahogany, purple, and black. Females have slightly dull brown and black plumages with shorter tails. 

4. Silver pheasant (Lophura nycthemera)

Silver pheasants originated in the mountain forests and mainland of southern China and southeast Asia (Burma, Cambodia, Thailand, and Vietnam). But they have also been brought to other regions such as Hawaii and other locations in the United States mainland.

Males can be recognized by their white or silvery gray upper feathers, black crests and chests, and long tails. Females possess brownish plumage, black-tipped crests, and shorter tails.

These large pheasants generally stand between 21.7 and 49.2 inches tall and weigh between 2.2 and 4.4 pounds. Both males and females have bare red faces and legs.

5. Salvadori’s pheasant (Lophura inornata)

Salvadori’s pheasants are also known as the Sumatran pheasants. They are native to the highlands and foothills of Sumatra and regions in Indonesia. In the last few years, their population has slightly decreased due to hunting activities carried out by the locals.

Male Salvadoris’ can be recognized by their dark iridescent blue plumage while females have dull brown bodies with dark tails. Both sexes possess bare red faces, pale bills, white legs, and short tails. They can grow up to 22 inches in body length and weigh between 1.4 and 1.5 pounds.

Salvadori’s pheasants generally look for food quietly on the forest ground and they can be seen in pairs, if not alone.

6. Mikado pheasant (Syrmaticus mikado)

These beautiful pheasants are native to mountainous regions in Central Taiwan. They have also been crowned as the country’s national bird and been drawn onto the Taiwanese dollar.

Male pheasants can be distinguished by their dark-blue plumage, white markings on their wings and tails, and red wattles. Females have olive-brown bodies with slightly duller red wattles and pale feather edges. They can grow up to 27.5 inches in body length and weigh between 1.3 to 2.6 pounds.

Mikado pheasants generally forage for food on grassy forest floors, bamboo growth, dense shrubs, and in the undergrowth of montane forests.

7. Siamese Fireback pheasant (Lophura diardi)

These endemic birds are also known as Diard’s Fireback pheasants. Siamese Fireback pheasants are native to lowlands forests of Southeast Asia, typically in Thailand, northern Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. Siamese Fireback pheasants are also available in most aviculture in the United States.

Males can be recognized by their blue-gray plumage, red face, yellow bills, red feet and legs, and glossy black tails. Females possess brown plumage, red patches on the face, dark gray bills, red feet and legs, and black-and-white banded wings. They can grow up to 31 inches in body length and weigh between 1.5 to 2.3 pounds.

8. Reeves’s pheasant (Syrmaticus reevesii)

These large pheasants are native to Central and Eastern China. But they also have been introduced to other parts of the world including the United States, France, Czech Republic, United Kingdom, and other regions in Europe. These birds were named after a British biologist, John Reeves, who brought these birds to Europe in 1831.

Reeves’s pheasants can grow up to 82 inches in body length with a wingspan of 21 to 35 inches. Male pheasants can be recognized by their golden feathers, red patches around the eyes, brown iris, grey legs, and long silvery, white-brown tails.

Female Reeves’s pheasants are slightly smaller than males with brown feathers, dark crowns, buff face, and grey-brown tails.

These birds are hardy and their call consists of a musical warble.

9. Copper pheasant (Syrmaticus soemmerringii)

Copper pheasants are endemic to mountainous forests and hills of the Japanese islands such as Kyushu, Shikoku, and Honshu.

These birds grow up to 53.5 inches in length and weigh between 2 and 3 pounds. Male pheasants can be recognized by their coppery brown plumage, red patches of skin around the eyes, and long banded tail. Female pheasants possess gray-brown upper feathers and buff barred dark down parts. Males’ tails are much longer than females’.

The population of copper pheasants has decreased in the last few years due to excessive hunting, predation, and other gaming activities. However, regulations and preventive measures have been taken by local authorities.

10. Lady Amherst’s pheasant (Chrysolophus amherstiae)

These colorful pheasants are native to China and have been introduced into the wild regions in southern England. They were named after Sarah Countess Amherst, wife of the Governor General of Bengal William Pitt Amherst, who brought the first bird of this breed back to London in 1828.

Lady Amherst’s pheasants can grow to 43.3 inches in length and weigh between 1.5 and 2 pounds. Male pheasants can be recognized by their red, blue, white, and yellow bodies, black and silver heads, long striped tails, and black-and-white scaling on their necks. Females are slightly different with black stripes on their brown plumage and gray skin around the eyes.

11. Elliot’s pheasant (Syrmaticus ellioti)

Elliot’s pheasants are endemic to the thick and mountainous forests of southeast China. They were named after an American ornithologist, Daniel Giraud Elliot, who was one of the founders of the American Ornithologists Union.

These pheasants can grow up to 31 inches in length and weigh between 2.2 and 3.1 pounds. Male pheasants can be recognized by their brown upper feathers, silver heads, white bellies, bright red face, and long pale gray tails. Female pheasants possess similar colors but are slightly duller with much shorter tails.

Elliot’s pheasants are categorized as an endangered species due to excessive hunting and habitat loss.

12. Cheer pheasant (Catreus wallichi)

Cheer pheasants are also known as the Wallich’s pheasants, which is the name of a Danish botanist, Nathaniel Wallich. These pheasants are native to the highlands and scrublands of western Himalayas, from northern Pakistan, through Kashmir, east to central Nepal, and other regions in India.

Male pheasants can be distinguished by their pale, black-and-white plumage, rust-colored lower backs, dark bellies, and thick black bands on the tail.

On the other hand, female pheasants possess brown plumage with white streaks all over their bodies, black spots on the chest, and rust-colored belly. Cheer pheasants grow between 2.3 and 3.9 feet in length and weigh around 1.9 to 3.9 pounds.

Their calls are very loud and can be heard from a mile away.

How To Build Pheasant Housing

Out in the wild, pheasants love to roam on the forest floors, lowlands, and open fields on a day-to-day basis. However, if you keep them domestically, they need the best of both worlds: an open field and a shelter.

Pheasant housing is quite important, especially in sheltering these birds from changing weather and all the elements. There are a few things to consider when you plan to build pheasant housing. These include:

Coop size and space

Pheasants need adequate space to move freely and sleep without being too close to one another. This is why coop size matters in relation to their body size.

As a general rule of thumb, you should provide these birds with at least 10 to 12 square feet of space per adult bird. The overall size of the coop should be around 200 to 300 square feet in size. This is to avoid overcrowding issues that can cause fights, lethargy, and even cannibalism.

Different ages of pheasants require different amounts of space to live. For instance:

However, when pheasants have matured, different breeds might require different floor space due to their overall body length and height that varies from one another.

This table shows some of the space requirements for other pheasant breeds:

Housing materials

When constructing pheasant shelters, choosing good materials is important to ensure that their coop will last for a long time. The most basic but strong material is wood.

It is also easier for you to create additional airways for ventilation when keeping pheasants in wooden coops.

Depending on your budget, there are two types of floorings that you can use for pheasant coops: concrete and wooden floorings. Each material will serve different purposes and needs.

For instance, a concrete floor is easy to clean but costs more than a wooden floor. A wooden floor is also easy to clean and cheap but may rot over a long period of time.

Whichever flooring you choose, be sure to choose the one that is tailored to your needs, budget, and the surrounding environment. Avoid using dirt as flooring. Although it is the cheapest option, dirt can be easily penetrated by burrowing animals such as rats and raccoons.

Additional structure

There are other additional structures that you can build in and around your pheasant housing. For instance:

Wire fences

Fencing helps in deterring predators while preventing your pheasants from escaping. You can use poultry netting or galvanized wire gauze and plant them around the coop. Be sure to pull the netting tight to prevent any gaps or pockets that could allow your pheasants to escape or worse, get stuck in them.

Then, bury wooden or concrete posts at the end of each netting to add more support to the structure.

Heat source

An additional source of heat is important, especially for brooding chicks and during a long cold season. You can install heat lamps with reflectors or a gas hover.

Be sure to account for the distance between the heat lamps and the floor to avoid burning and overheating issues.

Sand boxes

Sandboxes can be used to disinfect pheasants from dirt, bacteria, or bugs that might get stuck in between their feathers. You can use a children’s sandbox or builder’s sand mixed with a low concentration of agricultural lime.

Avoid putting sandboxes too close to their feeders to avoid contamination of their feed.

Feeders and waterers

Be sure to regularly clean their feeders and waterers. Dirt and mold build-up can cause serious health issues in pheasants that may require a trip to the vet.

What Should I Feed Pheasants?

Feeding pheasants with the best diet is important to facilitate their growth while maintaining their overall health throughout their life.

Generally speaking, pheasants are omnivores. In their wild habitat, they mostly feed on various food including insects, worms, grains, small plants, fruits, roots, seeds, and many other things that they can forage on the forest floors.

When you keep them in your backyard or farm, you need to make sure that they get the same amount of nutrients as they would receive from their foraging habit. However, their nutrient composition will also vary depending on their ages.

This table shows the minimum amount of nutrients that pheasants need based on their growth stages:

As a general rule of thumb, chicks between 0 and 3 weeks should be fed with a starter feed that contains 29% protein. Once they have reached more than 3 to 7 weeks, you can switch to feed with 26% protein. After they have grown past 7 to 24 weeks, it is time to feed with grower feed that contains 20% protein. For adult pheasants, regular feed with 14% protein is enough to provide them with the amount of nutrients that they need.

Pheasants also need a constant supply of fresh water to wash down their feed while preventing dehydration, especially during the hot season. So, be sure to check for the amount and condition of their water frequently.

Finally, don’t forget to supplement their diet with other food that contains essential vitamins, minerals, and insoluble grit for better digestion. These include oats, wheat, chaffed lettuce, rye, berries, cowpeas, millets, corns, and other plants.

Here are some of the vitamins that pheasants need in their diet:

Health And Disease Management

Pheasants are considered hardy birds and are usually not affected by common diseases. They can live 15 to 25 years, which is quite a long time for any game bird. However, this doesn’t mean they are totally invulnerable to certain avian illnesses.

Here are some diseases that can affect pheasants, be it individually or the whole flock:

• Aspergillosis
• Ataxia
• Avian influenza
• Blastocysts
• Blackhead disease
• Bumble foot
• Coccidiosis
• Corona nephrosis
• Fowl pox
• Worms
• Gape worms
• Egg peritonitis
• Erysipelas
• Mycotoxins
• Marble spleen disease
• Yolk sac infection
• Trichomonas
• Tuberculosis
• Rickets
• Pasteurella

If your pheasants are affected by any of these diseases, seeking professional help would be your best course of action. Once you’ve treated and eradicated the source of the disease, there are a few things that you can do to maintain prevent the outbreak of diseases from happening again.

You can schedule regular sanitation, cleaning their pen and coop frequently, changing their water and feed when you notice any signs of mold and mildew, and hiring a veterinarian for a yearly check-up on every bird in the flock.

Final Thoughts

Like any other game bird, raising pheasants comes with a lot of perks and benefits, provided that they receive all their essential needs.

Although they flourish and thrive in the wild, there is no reason that they can’t thrive in your backyard and farm.

During your first year or two, different challenges might arise but when they are fully mature, these birds are able to live without much supervision. In fact, they will enjoy their freedom as much as any other animal!

Citations

• https://meyerhatchery.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360034721091-Raising-Pheasants-101
• http://www.oakwoodgamefarm.com/game-raising-tips/
• https://petkeen.com/types-of-pheasants/
• https://putakputak.com/poultry/pheasants/top-10-most-beautiful-pheasants-in-the-world/
• https://www.beautyofbirds.com/housingpheasants.html
• https://discover.hubpages.com/animals/Raising-Pheasants-Build-a-Pheasant-Coop-House
• https://animals.mom.com/how-to-build-pheasant-pens-8524481.html
• https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/animals-and-livestock/poultry-and-birds/species/pheasant-raising/feeding-pheasants
• https://stdavids-gamebirds.co.uk/resources/diseases/pheasant-partridge/

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These stocky, round-bodied birds are native to Africa and have been raised and hunted for their meat and eggs for hundreds of years. Some people called them guinea fowls, guinea hens, pet speckled hens, or original fowl but they all are exactly the same.

Guineas belong in the Numididae family with different varieties that come in different colors from the result of several crossbreeding efforts.

There are many benefits of raising guineas as backyard birds or even to replace other domestic birds such as chickens or ducks.

They are able to protect your property and alert you to danger. Guineas can also control the number of pests in your backyard and farm. Simply put, they are excellent natural pest controllers.

If you’re thinking of raising these birds domestically, then look no further. This article will explore the in-depth procedure, do’s and don’ts, and everything that you should know about raising guineas.

Guinea Breeds to Choose From

After the domestication of guinea fowls hundreds of years ago, these odd-looking birds have been crossbred to produce several different color and pattern variations.

Today, there are six different species that have been recognized by researchers and conservationists.

Out of these six breeds, only three of them are being raised domestically throughout the world: the helmeted guinea fowls, crested guinea fowls, and vulturine guinea fowls. No matter which breed you choose, always pick the one that can thrive and grow healthily in your specific region.

1. Helmeted guinea fowl (Numida meleagris)

Helmeted guinea fowls are one of the most common and popular guinea breeds in the United States. These birds generally stand between 21 and 23 inches tall and can be recognized by their small heads, large bodies, slate gray plumage, and hundreds of white spots scattered all over their feathers.

They have warty facial skin and a unique bone-like casque on their forehead. This breed has been domesticated throughout many countries and can be found on many farms.

Aside from being raised for their meat and eggs, helmeted guinea fowls are natural pest controllers that can eat large quantities of ticks at once.

2. Vulturine guinea fowl (Acryllium vulturinum)

Being the largest breed of guineas, vulturine guinea fowls grow up to 28 inches tall with a weight of around 3.63 pounds. These long-necked birds possess stocky bodies with blue breasts, chestnut patches on the nape, and long black and white feathers that extend down to their long tails.

Vulturine guinea fowls will roost on trees at night. Although they can fly, they always run away to avoid predators and dangerous situations.

Due to their territorial nature, male guineas from this species can be very aggressive with other males. They have the same agitated and rattling call sounds similar to the Helmeted guinea fowls but slightly higher-pitched.

3. Crested guinea fowl (Guttera pucherani)

Crested guinea fowls can be distinguished by their unique and fancy curly crest on their forehead. These birds generally stand between 18 and 20 inches tall with a weight of around 4 pounds. They can be recognized by their small heads, round bodies, and rows of hundreds of bluish-white spots on their feathers.

They have red eyes, a mop-like black crest on top of the head, ivory-colored bills, and facial skin that comes in three different colors such as blue, red, and black.

Crested guinea fowls are curious and sociable in nature. They can mix well with other birds and are usually found in a flock of 20 birds.

4. Plumed guinea fowl (Guttera plumifera)

Plumed guinea fowls are shy, large black guineas that inhabit humid and tropical lowland forests. These birds grow up to 17 inches tall and can be recognized by the ornate white spots on their feathers.

They have a featherless dark face with a plume of black feathers on top of the head and long wattles on the side of the bill. From time to time, they live in the same habitat as black guinea fowls.

5. White-breasted guinea fowl (Agelastes meleagrides)

These guineas are native to the regions such as the forests of Guinea, Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana, Sierra Leone, and Liberia. White-breasted guinea fowls grow up to 17 inches tall and live in groups of 15 to 24 birds.

They have red heads, small black bodies, and a white ruff around their neck. The pattern on their neck alone makes them easily distinguishable from other breeds.

These birds also have distinctive calls that sound similar to the call of a dove.

6. Black guinea fowl (Agelastes niger)

Black guinea fowls can be found in several regions in West Central Africa such as Angola, Nigeria, Cameroon, the Republic of Congo, Equatorial Guinea, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. These birds inhabit lowland rainforests and spend their time mostly on thick forest floors.

Black guinea fowls generally stand around 17 inches tall and weigh around 25 ounces. They can be recognized by their small bodies, black plumages, long tails, and bare red heads. They also have pale speckled markings on their lower bodies.

These small, shy birds usually produce a monotonous, high-pitched “kwee” call repeated at a rate of two to three notes per second.

How To Feed Your Guineas

Guineas are omnivorous birds and they feed on various things. Although these birds are considered as low-maintenance animals, what they eat in the wild is different than what they need when you raised them domestically. Knowing their dietary requirement is important to ensure that they can grow without any serious health issues.

Most domesticated guineas come from the wild helmeted guinea fowls that are native to Africa. Out in the wild, these birds forage for different foods ranging from worms, snails, small reptiles, seeds, wild berries, insects, arachnids, to slugs, and other leafy plants.

But when you keep them in your farm or backyard, their diet changes to the environment that they live in and the amount of energy they need throughout the day. Adult guineas and keets also need different types of nutrients for their bodies.

Baby guineas, or keets, need special feed during their early growth phase. They require a high amount of protein, usually around 23% to 25% more than the normal feed.

When they reach five to eight weeks old, the protein ration should be reduced to 18% or 20%. After eight weeks, young guineas can be fed with a 16% mash layer or a higher protein feed with a laying-hen mash.

Only mash and crumbles can be fed to your guineas. Unlike other poultry birds, they can’t feed on pelleted food. You can also feed baby guineas with turkey starters that are available at any feed mills and local farm stores. But be sure not to purchase the ones that are medicated or specially formulated for other birds.

But if you still think that monitoring what they eat is the best step to maintain their health, you can feed them with chicken feed or other poultry feed that contains 16% protein.

Most commercially processed feed is made from both plants and animal-sourced ingredients. They usually contain protein, calcium, carbohydrate, and other beneficial nutrients.

To increase their appetite and make their diet tastier, you can feed guineas with special feed. These include mixed feeds, mealworms, sunflower seeds, and wild bird seeds. In fact, some mixed feeds contain nutritious ingredients such as millet and rolled oats that guineas can’t get just by foraging alone.

If you raise guineas to free-range, they will also eat plants and foliage that act as their source of fiber, vitamins, and minerals. You can also add fruits into the mix as long as you slice or chop the fruits into tiny pieces.

Finally, don’t forget to provide your guineas with grit and a constant supply of clean water. Grit and oyster shells are some of the supplemental diets that can be fed to guineas to facilitate better digestion.

Clean water will keep these birds hydrated and help them to wash down all the feed that they eat. Don’t forget to regularly change their water and clean both feeders and waterers to avoid contamination that can affect your guineas’ health.

Housing For Guineas

Sheltering guineas is fairly simple. They don’t need fancy housing other than basic structures to protect them from the elements and predators. Guineas’ housing can be anything like an old barn, a large coop, converted trailer, or even a shed.

If you’re not living in a tropical or mild climate, then it is always better to have a shelter that is protected on all four sides. When cold seasons pass, you can leave the shelter’s door open during the day to allow for better air circulation.

The ideal size that is suitable for a guinea coop is around 3 to 4 square feet for each bird and a floor space between 36 square feet and 48 square feet. There is no harm in having some wiggle room to prevent overcrowding and stress issues in case your guineas grow larger before you can transfer them into another confinement.

When planning for the coop size, be sure to take into account any space that will be used for nesting boxes, shelving, feeders, and waterers.

When planning for the interior of the coop, you will also have to cover the floor with hay or straw. Aside from acting as insulators, these materials can prevent guineas from slipping and falling when they run or walk. If the hay gets wet or damp, replace it with fresh as soon as possible to avoid mold build-up that harms the guineas’ respiratory system in the long run.

Don’t forget to build roost bars or perching areas for these birds. You can use small tree branches or 2-inch by 2-inch wood that stands around 4 feet tall.

Roost bars will help guineas to fluff their feathers for a better flow of air, especially during hot and cold seasons. This is the only way that they can regulate their body temperature in relation to the changes in the surrounding temperature.

Last but not least, keep their feeders and waterers inside their shelter. This is to avoid any contamination or exposure to sunlight or rain that could spoil their feed.

You will need to train your guineas to return to their coop at night to avoid these birds from wandering too far, roosting randomly in trees, or worse, getting killed by predators when they are lost.

Guineas are pack animals and they rarely wander off or venture into the wild without their flock. So, all you have to do is introduce your guineas into the outside world or your property one by one, rather than letting the whole flock out at once. Then, put them back inside their coop when evening comes.

Repeat this process until the bird is familiar with the way they should spend their time during the day. Then, apply the same training to the rest of the flock.

Brooding, Rearing, and Hatching Your Own Baby Guineas

When it comes to breeding your own guineas, you should always know how to tell males from females. Generally, it is quite hard to distinguish between young males and females until they are fully mature. The earliest age that the keets start to produce a call is when they reach 10 weeks old.

But there are two ways to identify the sexes from one another. First, you can listen to the sound and noises that they make. The hen can make two-syllable noise that sounds like “buck-wheat”, “put-rock”, or “qua-track” that male guineas can’t.

Then, you can also look at the size of the helmet and wattles. Males’ helmets and wattles are generally larger than females.

Guineas are seasonal layers and they usually lay a single egg per day between March or April and September or October when they reach between 26 and 28 weeks old.

But when you raise them in a flock, guinea hens will become communal layers and they will lay eggs dozens of eggs in one nest. Guineas aren’t choosy when it comes to their nest. In fact, they will take turns sitting on the nest until they reach the end of their brooding period.

One guinea hen can lay around 100 pale brown eggs that are speckled and hard-shelled. Guinea hens will continue laying the same amount of eggs until they reach five years old.

When breeding season comes, pairs of guineas will get together and search for the best nesting site. One male guinea generally can mate with four to five hens. But when you keep them in a closed shelter, they can mate around six to eight hens.

Guinea hens typically lay eggs in the late morning or early afternoon. Then, they will incubate the eggs for 26 to 28 days.

If you don’t enough hens, you can also use broody chickens to hatch guinea eggs. Depending on the size of the hens, the larger they are, the more eggs that they can sit on. Guinea hens generally don’t go broody until the nest is filled with at least 30 eggs.

Alternatively, if you think that the hens in your flock aren’t good mothers, you can put the eggs in an incubator for the same duration.

Health Issues in Guineas

Although guineas are adaptable to various climate and environmental changes, this doesn’t eliminate the fact that they are prone to suffer from certain diseases. Before we look into illnesses that can affect guineas, let’s look at how we can detect whether these birds are sick or the irregularities in their behavior are just false alarms.

1. Your guineas suddenly don’t eat or drink as they used to, leading to a drastic weight loss.
2. They don’t mingle with other guineas and look tired. Your guineas might also be hunched up or fluffed up even when the environment isn’t cold.
3. Mucous discharge comes out of their eyes and nostrils, swelling on their faces, helmet, and wattles. These symptoms point out to a serious condition known as a swollen head syndrome.
4. Your guineas can’t breathe properly. In fact, their breathing might sound rattly or tired.
5. Their vent or bottom doesn’t look normal and healthy. These include redness or swelling, soiled feathers around the vent, and open sores.
6. Unhealthy guineas will also have difficulties standing or walking properly. Their legs can look pale, inflamed, and swollen.

Here are some diseases that can happen in guineas:

Avian flu

Avian flu is a highly infectious viral diseases that can cause a decrease in egg production, loss of appetite, blood-tinged discharge from nostrils, and worse, sudden death.

Coccidiosis

This disease is caused by parasitic protozoa named Eimeria and they invade the cells of guineas’ intestines.

Preventive measures can be taken by administering anticoccidial drugs or feeding baby guineas with medicated feed that is produced to combat this disease.

E-coli

E-coli generally affect baby guineas (young keets) of about 8 to 12 weeks of age. Poor hygiene and litter management are some of the major causes of the spread of this disease.

Egg binding

Egg binding happens when guineas are having a hard time laying or passing their eggs. Some of the obvious signs of egg-bound guineas are panting, lameness, loss of appetite, spending too much time in their nest, shaky wing, and tail pumping. Their vent will also look wet and messy.

Fowl Cholera

Fowl cholera is highly contagious and caused by a bacteria named Pasteurella multocida. Some of the symptoms of this bacterial disease are swollen wattles, lameness, torticollis, and pneumonia.

Fowl Pox

Fowl pox can spread by mosquitoes or direct contact between infected and susceptible guineas. Scabs from infected birds might also contain viruses that can act as a source of infection. These viruses can enter the guineas’ systems through the eyes, respiratory tract, and open wounds.

Impacted crop

Impacted crop happens when guinea’s stomach becomes filled with food or mass that they can’t digest, leading to bowel obstruction. This problem can be solved by simply incorporating grit and stones into guineas’ diet.

Infectious Coryza

There are two types of coryza: simple and infectious. Simple coryza can be treated like a common cold but infectious coryza can be severe depending on the resistance and immune system of the birds.

This disease also affects chickens, pheasants, turkeys, and other game birds.

Marek’s disease

Also known as fowl paralysis, this disease is highly contagious and caused by a herpes virus. Marek’s disease can result in tumor production and sudden death in guineas.

The development of tumors can be prevented through vaccination but it doesn’t necessarily stop the virus from spreading.

Mycoplasma Galliseptum

This disease is caused by bacteria with the same name.  This infection can cause chronic respiratory disease in guineas and other poultry birds.

Newcastle disease

Newcastle disease is an infection that affects most domestic poultry and bird species. This disease is categorized into three types: mild, moderate, and highly pathogenic.

Symptoms of Newcastle disease in guineas include facial swelling, hoarse chirps in chicks, twisting of the neck, lameness, panting, watery discharge from nostrils, and paralysis.

Final Thoughts

To conclude everything, raising guineas comes with many benefits that you can’t get from normal poultry birds.

Of course, there will be challenges that you have to face from time to time. But those setbacks are similar to raising other animals and they are totally manageable.

Aside from their loud calls, guineas are definitely all-purpose birds that can be raised sustainably without causing any serious trouble.

Sources:

• https://petkeen.com/types-of-guinea-fowl/
• https://morningchores.com/guinea-fowl/
• https://www.wikihow.com/Raise-Guinea-Fowl
• https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/raising-guinea-fowl-zmaz92aszshe
• https://www.hobbyfarms.com/getting-guineas-train-them-right/
• https://poultry.extension.org/articles/poultry-management/raising-guinea-fowl-in-small-and-backyard-flocks/
• https://thegardenmagazine.com/how-to-raise-guinea-fowl-in-your-backyard/
• https://www.knowyourchickens.com/guinea-fowl/
• https://cluckin.net/diseases-of-guinea-fowl.html#mcetoc_1fb9r5d462

The post Ultimate Guide To Raising Guineas appeared first on Homestead Geek.

But that’s not entirely true. In fact, peacocks can easily be raised as pets or even for profit.

There are many reasons why raising peacocks is beneficial. For one, they have a longer lifespan than other large birds. Peacocks generally live between 12 and 15 years and some can even live up to 50 years.

Aside from their aesthetic value, peacocks yield delicious meat and eggs. Their eggs are three times as large as chicken eggs.

So, if you’re thinking of raising these birds, this guide will explain what you need to be a successful peacock owner from start to finish.

What Breeds Of Peacock Should You Choose?

Peacocks are native to Asia and Africa. They belong to the family Phasianidae and were kept as pets by Europeans and the Chinese historically. Peacocks are generally polygamous, mating with two or three peahens.

Through mutations and selective breeding, peacocks come in different variations including black, yellow, purple, and even albino. But all these variations originate from standard green or Indian peacocks.

Although the United Peafowl Association recognizes 225 peacock or peafowl varieties, there are only a few major breeds that can be found all around the world including in the United States.

With that said, these are the three most commonly raised peacocks:

1. Indian Peacock (Pavo cristatus)

Indian peacocks are also known as blue peacocks and common peacocks. They are native to India, Sri Lanka, and other regions in Eastern Asia. These birds can be recognized by their distinctive iridescent blue-green plumage.

Their upper tails are elongated with eye-like markings at the end of each feather. Males measure between 25 and 28 inches in length while females measure between 24 and 25 inches in length.

Peahens are generally duller in color with a mix of dull green, greenish-grey, and iridescent blue. One way to recognize the females from the males during the normal season is through the green color of their neck.

There are many variations of the Blue Indian peacocks including white, black-shouldered, oaten, purple, midnight, pied, and opal.

Females typically lay between 4 and 5 buff white eggs that take around 28 days to be incubated.

2. Green Peacock (Pavo muticus)

Green peacocks are also known as the Java peacocks. They originated in the tropical forest of Southeast Asia, inhabiting open forests and watery regions.

Males and females are similar in appearance. They have iridescent green necks, dark wings, and vertically-held dark green crests. Both sexes have long upper tail coverts and in males, these coverts can extend up to 78.7 inches (6.6 feet).

In the wild, green peacocks spend most of their time on the ground near tall grasses and sedges. During the day, they can be found in groups foraging, drinking, preening, and mingling with other birds in the same group. At night, they roost in trees at a height between 33 to 49 feet.

Unlike other peacocks, green peacocks are generally silent except during the dawn and dusk when males call from their roosting sites with a loud call of ‘ki-wao.’ Females will make loud ‘aow-aa’ calls repeatedly for a short period of time.

They lay between 2 and 6 eggs that take around 26 to 28 days to be incubated.

3. Congo Peacock (Afropavo congensis)

This peacock breed is the national bird of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Congo peacocks are endemic to the Central Congolian lowland forests but have been preserved both in primary and secondary forests in Salonga Park.

Males can be recognized by metallic green and purple patches on their dark blue bodies, while females possess chestnut breasts with iridescent bright green feathers and metallic backs. Peacocks of this breed generally measure between 25 and 28 inches in length and the peahens measure between  24 and 25 inches.

These birds can live up to 20 years. Females can lay between 2 and 4 brown eggs that take around 28 days to be incubated.

No matter which breed you choose, be sure to purchase a healthy bird. If possible, do quick research on the hatcheries or breeders that you are interested in before buying. Contact them and ask for a medical history of the bird.

Observe the peacock carefully and look for any signs that indicate that the bird isn’t healthy. Avoid buying peacocks during their molt season because it can be hard to tell if they’re genuinely healthy during this period.

Building Your Peacock Shelter

Although keeping peacocks free-range on your land or property is considered the best way to keep these birds happy, they also need shelter to protect them from all the elements. Their housing is a place to stay dry during rainy seasons, windy days, and most importantly, a structure that keeps them warm in cold seasons.

There are a few key components to building a good peacock shelter. These include:

1. Space

Sheltering peacocks is different from sheltering other small domestic birds. Due to their large body size, peacocks generally need a lot of space compared to peahens.

If you’re keeping peacocks in pens or coops, the optimum size to have for each bird is around 80 to 100 square feet with a minimum height of 8 feet to allow room when they fan their feathers.

2. Housing Types

There are many types of shelter that you can build for peacocks such as barns, large tree houses, or even designated coops. If you are looking for something simple, a prefabricated shed or three-sided shelter made from plywood or strong boards can work.

You can also use 2-by-4 boards to make a roosting board. The board should be placed between 3 and 6 feet above the ground.

During cold seasons, the surrounding temperature might drop below freezing. So you need to insulate the walls and floors or use a panel heater to keep your peacocks warm. Panel heaters can be used to regulate temperature even to the lowest level to avoid temperature shock.

3. Bedding And Nesting Areas

Peacocks need bedding to rest and sleep at night. They don’t require extensive and fancy bedding so you can use materials like straw and pine shavings. Keep their bedding dry, cozy, and free from any moisture. The bedding will also insulate your peacocks’ bodies, especially in cold seasons.

To construct peacocks’ nesting areas, the procedure is similar to creating their shelter. First and foremost, they need the same amount of space between 80 to 100 square feet per bird. Then, find a 55-gallon plastic drum and cut it down to about a third of its height.

Make sure the drum doesn’t tip by nailing it onto the wooden floor of the shelter or putting some bricks at the bottom of it. After that, you can nail two 1-by-8 boards to create a 16-inch wall at the corner of the shelter. Fill the nesting areas with straw or wood shavings.

Remember to change them regularly to keep the areas clean and moisture-free.

4. Fencing

Safety should always be a cause for concern. This is true especially if you’re living in areas that are filled with predators of peacocks such as coyotes, wild dogs, and foxes. Both their shelter and nesting areas must be fenced properly.

You can use hardware cloth and chicken wire and attach them to sturdy wooden posts. Then, the posts can be set every 8 to 12 feet around the perimeter of their living area. You should also bury the bottom of the wire at least 6 inches deep to prevent digging predators from breaking in.

Last but not least, don’t forget to provide feeders and waterers for your peacocks. These bowls or plates should be placed near their housing but away from gaps under their housing to avoid droppings from falling into their feed.

It is also best for you to do a quick sweep around their shelter and nesting areas to look for objects that can hurt the birds such as broken glasses or rusty nails.

Feeding Habit And Dietary Requirements

Feeding peacocks is fairly easy. They are omnivorous and eat both fiber and protein-based diets. Being opportunistic feeders, their diet in the wild ranges from insects, small reptiles, arthropods, amphibians, to seeds, flowers, and other parts of plants.

When keeping peacocks domestically, you definitely can incorporate some of this food into their diet. But there’s nothing wrong with improving their nutrition by providing them with feed that they can’t get out in the wild.

For instance, you can feed them a grain-based diet from a commercial game bird feed or a chicken feed. Then supplement their diet with green vegetables such as broccoli, chopped carrots, cabbage, beets, and peas. You can also add mealworms, boiled eggs, or cat food into their feed as an additional source of protein.

Peacocks eat frequently throughout the day and they require a high amount of protein. So you will see that even after you’ve fed these birds, they will roam and forage for food.

If you keep your peacocks free-range on your property, you will have to worry less about giving them treats. They will happily forage and scour the ground for some insects, seeds, and reptiles just like in the wild.

Also, don’t forget to provide clean water each day. Although peacocks don’t drink as much as other large animals, they still need water to keep them hydrated and aid in better digestion when feeding.

Raising and Brooding The Peachicks

Peahens generally take care of peachicks until they can live independently without their parents. However, if you intend to start your own peacock farm from peachicks, there are certain aspects that you should know about raising these birds at a very young age.

Brooding

If you want to purchase peachicks from reputable breeders, they are only available in the summer and spring months due to the peachicks’ sensitivity to low temperatures and cold environments. Similarly, when you keep these young birds on your property, they must be placed inside a draft-free brooder for the first eight weeks.

The temperature inside the brooder should be set around 95 degrees Fahrenheit before being reduced by 5 degrees each week until they reach the age of two months old.

Housing

Peachicks don’t need a large space. A standard chicken or turkey coop can be used to house them. Once they have reached two months old, you can transfer to another spacious coop or shelter. Their housing serves to protect them from predators and harsh weather. So, be sure to find the something that is strong, stable, and will last for a long period of time.

If you build their housing from scratch, be sure to leave some small gaps on the floor. This is because peachicks poop a lot and you want to avoid their droppings from accumulating inside their housing.

Feeding

Peachicks need a high-protein feed that promotes healthy growth. You can feed them a game bird starter or turkey feed that can be bought in any poultry feed store. This diet should be maintained until they reach 3 months old.

Aside from protein, you can also supplement their feed with leafy vegetables such as spinach, dark lettuce, and cabbage. Avoid anything fatty or salty. Once they have matured, you can switch their feed to the normal pellets.

Also, be sure to supply them with enough fresh and clean water.

Worming

Peachicks are prone to worm problems. If possible, try not to mix or house peachicks with other domestic fowls such as chickens, turkeys, and ducks. This is because peachicks don’t have a similar tolerance to parasites like other poultry birds.

Don’t hesitate to consult a veterinarian or any poultry and game birds experts if you need to do some deworming.

Breeding Your Peacocks

As polygamous birds, peacocks will generally mate with more than one peahen. Generally, their breeding season starts around March and ends in August.

Peahens don’t lay eggs in their first year but in their second and third year, they will lay between two and three eggs. During the fourth year, peahens will lay between five to nine eggs per year. In some cases, peahens can lay eggs even before they are being bred.

When mating, peacocks will dance to display their trains. This behavior serves to attract potential peahens that would mate with the dancing peacocks.

Peacocks will also become noisy during their mating season. So, don’t be alarmed when you notice they produce louder calling sounds compared to other months.

After the mating period and the males lose their tail trains, egg production and fertility levels will drop significantly. Peahens typically lay between 12 and 40 eggs on the ground or in their nesting areas. These eggs will be incubated for around 28 to 30 days.

If you intend to incubate the eggs without the mother, there are a few things that you should do in order to do it properly.

First, the eggs must be candled after 10 days of incubation. The eggs must be kept in an environment with a temperature between 99 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. If possible, quickly place the eggs inside the incubator as soon as the peahens finish laying all their eggs.

Diseases And Health Management

Like many animals, peacocks’ health should be monitored to prevent any diseases that could cause serious problems or worse, death in these birds.

Some of the illnesses that you should watch for in peacocks are below.

Respiratory diseases

Peacocks are prone to respiratory diseases that can spread quickly if they’re not treated at an early stage. These include fowl pox, Newcastle diseases, avian pox, aspergillosis, and many more. Some diseases will show early symptoms that are visible for just a physical examination such as sinuses and swollen eyes.

Some of these issues can be treated by prescribing antibiotics but not all of them will completely go away. Some of the things that you can do to prevent this issue are regular cleaning of your peacocks’ shelter and living space, providing them with a healthy and balanced diet, and a yearly check-up by an avian veterinarian.

External Parasites

External parasites that attack peacocks are mostly mites and lice. These parasites are fatal to the birds if they are left untreated. Mites will live on the peacocks’ bodies and feed on their blood, sucking all the nutrients they need to grow and live.

This could cause anemia, weight loss, and compromised immunity in your peacocks. Aside from vet treatment, you can use poultry pesticides to combat this issue.

Worms

Worms don’t only happen in chickens, ducks, turkeys, and other domestic birds. They can also happen in peacocks.

One of the obvious reasons why peacocks are prone to suffer from worm issues is due to their foraging habit. These birds will pick up worms whenever they spend time outside their housing.

Free-range peacocks are more prone to worms compared to those that live inside shelters. So you should schedule regular deworming sessions to treat this issue from causing more serious problems in your peacocks.

Some of the early symptoms of worms are ruffled feathers, weight loss, and lameness.

Diseases in Peachicks and Young Peacocks

Young peacocks are prone to coccidiosis that can lead to sudden death if left untreated. This disease generally doesn’t happen in adult peacocks. Early signs of coccidiosis that you should look for are ruffled feathers, lameness, and bloody diarrhea.

Feeding peachicks and young peacocks with medicated feed is just one of the many ways to prevent this issue. Proper hygiene and keeping their living space free from any contamination should also be done in order to avoid this problem from recurring.

Final Thoughts

Above all, raising peacocks can be a rewarding and exciting experience. Although they are not as popular as other domestic poultry birds, having peacocks will definitely add color and fun to your backyard or farm.

In addition to being great pets and producing both meats and eggs, these birds help in reducing pests, snakes, and other harmful insects.

Either way, it’s a win-win situation for you and your birds!

Citations:

• https://meyerhatchery.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360010700951-Peafowl-Brooding-101-How-to-Raise-Peachicks-from-Arrival-to-Outside
• https://www.inpoultry.com/raising-peafowl
• https://morningchores.com/raising-peafowl/
• https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/how-to-raise-peafowl-information-on-the-basics.67208/
• https://thriftyhomesteader.com/raising-peafowl/
• https://animals.mom.com/care-peacock-chicks-6395.html
• https://www.roysfarm.com/peacock-farming/
• https://www.vikingthelab.com/how-to-raise-peafowl/
• https://www.purinamills.com/chicken-feed/education/detail/beyond-backyard-chickens-raising-peacocks-and-game-birds

The post Ultimate Guide To Raising Peacocks appeared first on Homestead Geek.

Historically, llamas were first domesticated in Peru around four thousand years ago and raised for many purposes including meat and milk production, fiber, leather production, and more. These long-necked mammals are also closely related to guanacos, vicunas, and alpacas.

Although llama herds are mostly found in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Chile, and Ecuador, they have been exported to other countries and are now being raised as companion animals. There are more than 155,000 llamas registered in the United States. If you’re thinking of adopting these furry creatures as pets, then you have come to the right place.

In this article, we will take a closer look at how to raise llamas properly, be it for commercial ventures or as a past-time.

How to Choose High-Quality Llamas

When starting out, you should be clear on your reasons for raising llamas. Llamas can be raised for different purposes. If you choose to raise them as family pets, then finding trained ones that can socialize and mingle with a crowd of people would be your best bet.

If you want to raise them as show animals for exhibition or competition, then go for llamas with healthy, clean, thick fleeces.

Packing llamas for trekking requires you to have animals with the right gait that are docile and don’t spook easily when meeting strangers. But if you choose to breed llamas for profit, finding healthy studs and dams with a good medical history should be your first priority.

No matter what your goal is, llamas are generally easy to raise. They are herd animals by nature with a tendency to unite with their herd in the face of danger.

When you finally decided to purchase these animals, look for trustable and reputable breeders that can provide you with a proven medical history. Don’t be afraid to speak up and ask anything related to the llamas’ current health, past owners, and other details.

If possible, bring along friends or an experienced llama owner that could guide you in making the right choice. You can also reach out to the Alpaca and Llama Show Association (ALSA) and ask for their opinions on any reputable breeder in your area.

Shelter and Housing for Llamas

Although llamas prefer to roam and run freely in open fields, they also need to be sheltered from changing weather, especially during lengthy hot and cold seasons. So, there are two types of living spaces that you can provide for these animals, which are indoor and outdoor spaces.

As a general rule of thumb, you should provide at least 40 square feet of space for every llama in any indoor living space. Their housing also can be built from different materials, provided that they are strong and weather-resistant.

If you choose to go with a fully enclosed barn, be sure to include good ventilation inside this structure. You should also avoid bare concrete or hardwood floors and place slip-resistant mats or materials down to prevent any slips or falls that could injure these animals. Inside the shelter, llamas need comfortable bedding to rest and sleep in.

Dry, clean straw or wood chips can be used as bedding. Once or twice a week, you can remove any soiled straw that traps moisture. Wet or soggy bedding can increase their chance of getting sick, especially from the build-up of mold and mildew.

When summer comes, any indoor housing has the potential to trap heat while increasing the humidity inside the structure. Although dry living space is generally good for hygiene, llamas are prone to suffer from dehydration and exhaustion when the surrounding temperature is too high.

To combat this issue, you can install a thermometer and circulating fans to monitor and regulate the indoor temperature of their housing.

Conversely, during the winter, the temperature will drop and humidity tends to increase due to the absence of heat. This is where properly ventilated and insulated housing works the best. If you have extra funds, you can also install ceramic light bulbs or radiant floor heating to increase the heat inside their housing.

Llamas shouldn’t be restricted to indoor spaces for too long. They love to run and spend most of their time out in the field during the day. Their enclosure must be properly fenced with strong materials that are tall enough to prevent these animals from jumping and escaping.

Ideally, a four- to five-foot stock fence will be fine. You can also use corral boards to add more protection on the outside of the fence. Avoid using barbed wire, which can injure your llamas.

You should also provide pastures or grasses that are safe for llamas. Be vigilant and remove any toxic plants that might be dangerous. Ideally, they need to have at least an acre of land per animal. So, be sure to account for extra space if you intend to raise more than one llama. Depending on the quality of pasture, you can add hay and other minerals into their diet.

A key to healthy llamas is a clean and balanced diet. You can set up rotational pasturing by dividing the field into smaller paddocks. This will give each pasture enough room to recover after grazing without causing further damage to the soil.

Llama Diet and Nutrition

Llamas are excellent grazers and browsers. So, they are generally hardy by nature. They possess a 3-chambered stomach that can digest coarse forage effectively, making them less susceptible to bloating. Feeding these herbivores is fairly simple.

Browse such as bushes, shrubs, and small trees can also provide them with different nutrients when they browse freely in the open fields. Additionally, you can also add a small amount of alfalfa into the diet of pregnant and lactating llamas.

One thing to note is that there is a maximum amount of dry fiber that they should consume per day. On average, llamas consume between 1.0% to 1.3% of their body weight up to a maximum of1.8 to 2.0 %. They also eat around 10 to 20 pounds of hay per day.

When feeding llamas with hay, try not to overfeed them with alfalfa hay. This is because the high concentration of protein and calcium in this type of hay can cause hypercalcemia and other nutrient imbalances. The safest and best option to go with is grass hay.

Grains are also a great source of carbohydrates and can also be included in a llama’s diet. However, grain should be fed sparingly to these camelids to avoid excess carbohydrates that can lead to weight problems. Always choose commercial pellets or grain feeds that are formulated for llamas based on their ages and life stages.

Aside from fiber and carbohydrates, llamas also need protein to facilitate their growth. Depending on their stages of growth and levels of activity, these animals need different amounts of protein in their diet. On average, adult llamas require around 8 to 10% protein in their feed.

Their ability to recycle and conserve nitrogen internally contributes to their lower protein needs. A diet that is high in legume hay and pasture grasses contains a high amount of protein. This type of food should not be fed excessively to llamas because it can cause various health issues.

When it comes to minerals and salt, llamas should have access to plain mineral salt blocks or plain loose salt mixes. These blocks or mixes can be served in dry buckets or feed pans, away from moisture or wet environments.

Avoid feeding these animals with mineral blocks that contain copper. This is because camelids possess a low threshold for toxicity of dietary copper. Copper toxicity can cause serious health issues in llamas or worse, sudden death.

Once you’re fully aware of their basic dietary needs, it is time to move on to treats that are safe for llamas. Not everything edible can be eaten by these camelids. There are some foods that can be served as treats such as:

• Pumpkin
• Carrot
• Celery
• Raisins
• Sweet potatoes
• Oranges
• Pears
• Apples
• Banana
• Watermelon
• Cantaloupes
• Fresh green beans
• Mango

Treats should be fed sparingly to avoid nutrient imbalance that can affect a llama’s health. For instance, sweet fruits that are high in glucose can lead to dental problems. Then, feeding these fruits without slicing them into smaller pieces can cause choking problems.

No matter which treats you give, proceed with caution and feed them sparingly. On the other hand, there are foods that should not be given to llamas, no matter how little their amount might be. These include:

• Meats and all kinds of animal products
• Avocado
• Chocolate
• Cherries
• Brassica
• Peas
• Plants from the nightshade family
• Sugary foods
• Kale
• Potato
• Lima beans

Last but not least, don’t forget to provide your llamas with an adequate supply of clean water. Llamas generally drink between 2 and 3 gallons of water per day. During hot seasons, they drink more than normal to prevent dehydration. If you’re living in a colder region, a water heater must be installed. Llamas may refuse to drink when the water is too cold.

Caring for Your Llamas

Like many animals, llamas need some tender loving care from time to time. These include:

· Shearing

If you choose to raise wooly llamas, they should be sheared at least once a year. This can be done in the summer or during the winter. Llamas’ coats should only grow up to 3 inches in winter. Their undercoat should be reduced to an inch long in the summer depending on your location, the type of coat, and the way they tolerate different climates.

· Trimming

Llamas don’t have hooves. Instead, their feet consist of soft, leathery-like pads on the bottom with two toes covered with hard toenails. The toenails must be trimmed between three to six times a year, depending on the floor surface and weather conditions.

· Brushing

Depending on their coat type, you might have to brush your llamas to maintain the health and quality of their coat. Llamas can be divided into two categories: classic llamas and wooly llamas. With their double coats, classic llamas shed regularly. Hence, you should schedule a regular brushing routine to keep their coats healthy.

On the other hand, wooly llamas don’t shed. With dense body wool and neck fleece, they require shearing at least once a year.

· Bathing

Occasional bathing can remove any dirt clumps that are stuck in their coat. Make sure to use a high-quality shampoo that won’t irritate their skin.

· Training

Llamas are generally docile and easy to handle. But if you intend to raise them as pets, they should be trained from very young to adapt to their living space and follow your orders. Until you are able to do this all by yourself, you should hire professional trainers to do the job.

The Cost of Owning Llamas

Let’s face it: you can’t avoid thinking about all the costs and expenses that come with raising llamas. Generally, a llama can cost around $300 up to $5000, depending on the age, wool quality, history, gender, well-being, and temperament. Untrained llamas can cost between $400 and $900 per animal but llamas that are bred for packing and breeding can cost as much as $1500.

There will be additional expenses that you have to take into account. These include their medical bills, shearing and trimming charges if you choose to hire a professional shearer, sheltering and housing equipment, and other miscellaneous expenses.

On the other hand, the cost of feeding llamas is generally cheaper compared to other animals.

Depending on where you live, hay bales typically cost between $3 and $12 per 50-pound bale. Be ready to spend up to $20 per month for their feed. Additionally, if you choose to add a grain supplement into llamas’ diet, it will cost around $30 to $70 per pound bag of grain.

Lastly, expect to pay for permits or licenses if you’re living in a state that doesn’t allow you to raise these animals without any legal documentation. The land or property in which you will keep your llamas must also be zoned for livestock.

Before finalizing your purchase, check with your zoning authority, especially if you intend to transport your llamas across state lines. Be ready to pay for some paperwork, health screening, and vaccinations.

Breeding Your Own Llamas

There are a few things to consider before you decide on breeding your own llamas. The most basic requirements to breed llamas are healthy males and females. When choosing a mate for the female llama, be sure to check for any physical defects or conformation faults.

Being induced ovulators, female llamas don’t ovulate until they have been in contact with males. Their gestation period can be up to 375 days but on average, they are pregnant for 340 to 345 days.

Depending on your time, skills, and resources, you can breed llamas with two different methods. The first method is called pasture breeding, where females are introduced to the males in their field. After mating, the females should be removed immediately to prevent repeated matings that can result in intrauterine infections, stress, and even internal damage to the female.

Another breeding method that you can use is hand breeding. Hand breeding requires both the male and the male to be halter-trained and kept separately.

The male is placed in a pen or stable and the female is introduced for a mating session. After the initial meeting, they will be separated and the female will be reintroduced four days later. A female that hasn’t yet ovulated will let the male cover her. Keep reintroducing the female until she refuses to be in the same place with the male.

Llamas typically give birth during the day. First-time mothers don’t necessarily show any signs of them being about to give birth. But the most obvious clue that you can look for is by examining their mammary glands. Most pregnant llamas will produce milk between one and six weeks before giving birth.  So, you have to be observant and monitor your llamas and their due dates closely.

If you don’t have the capability to breed these camelids, then you can hire professional breeders to do all the work. You can hire them to help you in doing your own breeding or they could provide you with selected male llamas that are ready to mate. Don’t hesitate to ask for any advice regarding this matter, no matter how trivial things might be.

Llamas’ Health Management

Llamas are generally hardy and resistant to many diseases. However, this doesn’t eliminate the fact that they are still susceptible to certain illnesses.

One of the common health issues in llamas is parasite problems. These include internal parasites such as tapeworms, flukes, lungworms, gastrointestinal nematodes, meningeal nematodes, and external parasites such as lice, ticks, and mites.

Regular deworming and medicines approved by a veterinarian are some of the ways to combat this issue. A fecal examination is also one of the effective ways to detect any presence of internal parasites inside their bodies.

Like cattle and sheep, llamas are also prone to suffer from diseases that infect these farm animals. Some of the common health problems that you should be aware of are footrot, tuberculosis, coccidiosis, malignant edema, John’s disease, conjunctivitis, enterotoxemia, tetanus, anthrax, and anemia.

If you’re living in regions with high humidity and temperature, heat stress might affect these animals, especially if they have thick body fiber and weight problems.

How to Generate Profits from Llamas

If you choose to look at llama farming as an investment, there are a few ways to monetize your operation and reap some profits from these animals. These include:

· Selling llama fiber

On average, an ounce of llama fleece is sold between $3 and $4 in the market. There is a demand for llama fiber due to its nature that is soft and lanolin-free.

· Selling llama meat

In the United States, ground llama meat is being sold for $59.99 per five pounds. Depending on their weight, the amount of meat that each llama could produce might vary. Venturing into the meat business is more profitable. But you must be prepared to set up a good marketing plan and hire people to help you.

· Selling llama milk

Llama milk is good for people who are lactose-intolerant. Their milk is nearly as delicious and nutritious as cow’s milk.

· Charging for a hiking companion

Well-trained and experienced llamas can be hired out to people who are looking to use these animals for hiking excursions. Choose the friendliest and best-trained llamas for this type of business. Once they are well-known, you can slowly increase the rate.

· Offering llamas for breeding

Aside from people offering their livestock for breeding, you can also offer these animals to other llama owners that are looking for a mating partner for their female llamas. You can set your own price depending on the health record, physical traits, and the quality of the male.

Final Thoughts

Llamas are definitely one of the exotic animals that you can raise for fun and profit. As long as they get all the basic necessities, they can live longer than their expected lifespan. If you are committed to raising these animals, there’s no reason why they can’t contribute to their owner in many different ways.

Citations

• https://farmhouseguide.com/ultimate-guide-to-raising-llamas
• https://opensanctuary.org/article/daily-diet-treats-and-supplements-for-llamas
• https://urbanlivestockvet.com/content/feeding-recommendations-alpacas-llamas
• https://www.jnkllamas.com/before-you-breed-your-male-or-female-llama
• https://www.britishllamasociety.co.uk/breeding-llamas
• https://farmdesire.com/llamas-farming/#How_to_take_Care_of_llamas
• https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/all-about-raising-llamas
• https://www.thesprucepets.com/llamas
• https://www.petassure.com/new-newsletters/pet-llamas
• https://opensanctuary.org/article/building-a-good-home-for-llamas

The post Ultimate Guide to Raising Llamas appeared first on Homestead Geek.

Guinea pigs were first domesticated for food around 5000 BC by tribes in the Andean region of South America. In the sixteenth century, they were introduced into Europe before their popularity grew and spread all across the globe.

Aside from their delicious taste, guinea pig meat is also high in protein, which makes them suitable for people who are looking for an alternative way to have their own source of meat. In the United States, most guinea pigs that have been brought for consumption come from Peru.

To begin your own journey of raising guinea pigs for meat, there are a few things that you should know in order to successfully farm these animals. Without wasting any time, let’s dive right into it.

Choosing The Best Guinea Pig Breed

Almost all breeds of guinea pigs can be raised for their meat. However, this doesn’t mean one breed is the same as another. There are a few things to consider when choosing the best breed to keep over a longer period of time. For instance:

• Young, large-sized, and healthy guinea pigs always make the best starter cavies.

• Long-haired breeds might yield a lesser amount of meat compared to short-haired breeds.

• Always ask the buyers for a previous record to know about the number of deaths during the weaning process.

• Avoid guinea pigs that have watery and sore eyes, ears, and noses.

• Choose the ones that are active and healthy without any signs of lameness.

• Don’t pick guinea pigs that have sores or any deformities on their bodies.

Once you’re well aware of the do’s and don’ts of choosing a guinea pig, it is for you to look at some of the popular breeds that you can find in the market. Here are the 16 best guinea pig breeds that you can raise:

1. Abyssinian Guinea Pig

The Abyssinian guinea pigs originated from Ethiopia. They can be recognized by their distinctive eight symmetrical swirled furs. They are known to be one of the most affectionate breeds, suitable for beginners and first-time owners.

2. Alpaca Guinea Pig

This breed can be recognized by its uniquely dense, wavy, and coarse coat. The Alpaca guinea pigs can live up to 8 years. Raising these rodents requires more attention and care due to their coat type that needs frequent brushing and grooming.

3. American Guinea Pig

The American guinea pigs are the most common breed in North America. They have medium-sized bodies with short hair that comes in 20 different colors. These guinea pigs also don’t require frequent brushing due to their silky coats that are easy to manage. This breed is pretty docile and gets along well with other guinea pigs.

4. Baldwin Guinea Pig

The Baldwin guinea pigs might look like a tiny hippopotamus from afar, but they are actually one of the hairless breeds. However, they still have whiskers on their face. This breed is definitely easy to manage because they don’t require any brushing.

However, without hair, they are prone to experience any sudden changes in temperature, be it hot or cold. Without any insulation to protect their skin, they should also be kept away from direct sunlight.

5. Coronet Guinea Pig

This breed was first bred in the mid-1970s in England by crossing a Silkie guinea pig with an American Crested guinea pig. In 1998, they were first recognized as a breed by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). The Coronet guinea pigs can be recognized by their thick, flowing manes that come in many different colors. They are lovely, affectionate, and require a lot of attention from their owners.

6. Himalayan Guinea Pig

The Himalayan guinea pigs are an albino breed with brown and black colorations on their nose, ears, and feet. They have a pure white coat with short fur. These guinea pigs are sensitive to direct sunlight and suitable to be raised in colder regions. They also love to stay indoors. So, people who live in tiny apartments and condos can definitely keep this breed as pets.

7. Lunkarya Guinea Pig

These guinea pigs are native to Sweden. They are the variation of the Peruvian guinea pigs. The Lunkarya guinea pigs can be recognized by their long, mop-like wavy coats that are coarse and dense.  They also come in three different sub-breeds which are the Lunkarya Sheltie, Lunkarya Peruvian, and Lunkarya Coronet. Due to their thick coat, these guinea pigs don’t do well in a hot climate or under direct sunlight.

8. Merino Guinea Pig

The Merino guinea pigs can be recognized by their distinctive rosette on the forehead. They also have long and thick wavy coats that require regular brushing. These guinea pigs are generally cheerful, intelligent, and adventurous. First-time owners might feel overwhelmed if they choose this breed as starter guinea pigs but over time, the Merinos are definitely more fun and cuddly than other breeds.

9. Peruvian Guinea Pig

The Peruvian guinea pigs can be distinguished by their unique long and wavy coats that can grow up to 2 feet long. Due to the nature of their coat, this breed is considered high maintenance and requires a lot of grooming, bathing, and brushing. These guinea pigs are generally playful, energetic, and curious. They also have a habit of chewing the fur of their companions whenever they feel bored or under-stimulated.

10. Rex Guinea Pig

These guinea pigs may look like hedgehogs but they actually have a short, dense wavy coat that makes them different from other breeds. The Rex guinea pigs come in different color variations ranging from brown, white, and agouti. Although their fur doesn’t require as much grooming as other breeds, their toenails grow quickly and need a lot of trimming from time to time.

11. Sheba Guinea Pig

The Sheba guinea pigs are also known as the Sheba Mini Yaks, meaning the ‘Bad Hair Day’ guinea pigs. They were born from a cross between an Abyssinian and a Peruvian guinea pig. These guinea pigs can be recognized by their long and thick rosette hair that requires frequent grooming and brushing. With their gentle and docile nature, they are fairly easy to handle.

12. Silkie Guinea Pig

Also known as the Shelties, these guinea pigs were first created in the 1970s from a cross between a long-haired Peruvian and a Self-Black guinea pig. They have long, silky thick hair that only grows backward and could reach up to 24 inches long. These guinea pigs are also friendly, warm, and laid-back. To prevent their hair from matting, the Silkies require regular grooming and brushing.

13.  Skinny Guinea Pig

The Skinny guinea pigs are one of the hairless breeds with some hair spots on their muzzle, legs, and back. They generally come in three different color forms including Dutch, brindle, and Himalayan. Without any hair to protect their skin, these guinea pigs require a lot of attention and care to prevent any injuries or bruises.

14. Teddy Guinea Pig

These guinea pigs are named after the stuffed animals due to their physical appearance that looks like living teddy bears. Teddy guinea pigs possess short and dense coats that require less maintenance. They could live up to 11 years and weigh up to 3.5 pounds at maturity.

15. Texel Guinea Pig

This breed originated in England and was created from a cross between a Silkie and a British Rex guinea pig. The Texels can be recognized by their long, curly coat that comes in different colors such as white, brown, chestnut, and a mix of other colors. They make a really great pet due to their docile, friendly, and warm temperament.

16. White-Crested Guinea Pig

The White-Crested guinea pigs can be distinguished by a unique white crown on top of their head. The texture of their coat is soft and smooth, which is similar to the American breed. Although they are quite shy and reserved, this breed is fairly intelligent. White-Crested guinea pigs can also be found in Satin, but aren’t being recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) as a certified breed.

Housing For Guinea Pigs

Providing a sturdy and safe shelter for your guinea pigs is one of the crucial steps to successfully raise these animals in the long run.

Like many small animals, guinea pigs don’t require large space but there is no harm in providing them with spacious and comfortable shelters. There are two types of housing systems that are suited for guinea pigs. The first one is:

1. Cages/Hutch System

Most commercial cages that are being sold in the market aren’t fit for all types of guinea pigs farming. Depending on their body size and the number of guinea pigs that you want to raise, choosing the right size for their cages or hutches that can accommodate these animals comfortably should be your first priority. For instance:

• One or two guinea pigs require around 7.5 to 10.5 square feet of space (30” x 50”)

• Three guinea pigs require around 10.5 to 13 square feet of space (30” x 62”)

• Four guinea pigs require at least 13 square feet of space (30” x 76”)

These cages can be constructed using different materials such as glass, wood, plastic, metal, and wire. Build solid floors without rough ramps, mesh shelves, or floor grids. This is to avoid any injuries being inflicted on guinea pigs’ feet whenever they run or walk inside their cages.

Aside from floorings, you should also provide beddings for these animals to rest and sleep on. You can use wood shavings, woodchips, and shredded newspapers as long as you keep them fresh and clean. If possible, change their beddings at least once a week. Avoid using sawdust due to the size of the particles that can harm these animals when they accidentally inhale them.

Last but not least, keep your guinea pigs’ cages well-ventilated and free from any moisture. Ideally, you can place their cages in an area that is away from direct sunlight where the surrounding temperature is around 65°F to 75°F. Never place your guinea pigs near any cages of other animals such as rabbits or cats to avoid any infectious disease that can be transmitted between these animals.

The second type of housing that you can build is the pen system:

2. Pen system

Raising guinea pigs in the pen is more suitable for breeders with a large space, who are looking to maintain a large herd at once. Aside from additional space, the pen system is economical and you don’t have to worry about cleaning their housing regularly. Generally, a 60 square-foot pen can accommodate between 30 and 50 guinea pigs.

You can use hay or sawdust for their beddings. Make sure that these materials are changed regularly to avoid any moisture build-up that can attract bacteria and mold. Don’t forget to cover the pens with strong fences. Additionally, you can also build at least three hiding places that serve to protect these animals whenever they sense any danger from the outside world.

Feeding And Dietary Requirements

Feeding guinea pigs is fairly easy. They are herbivores that mainly feed on plants and grasses out in the wild. When you keep or raise them in your farm and backyard, there are some set of feeding regiment that you can follow.

Basically, you can feed with them high-quality guinea pig hay or guinea pigs pellets. Timothy hay, low-calcium hay, and any specially formulated commercial pellet that contains vitamin C are some of the best diets for these animals.

You can also add fresh vegetables into the mix. These include:

• Broccoli
• Cauliflower
• Romaine lettuce
• Spinach
• Artichokes
• Kale
• Cilantro
• Beet greens
• Carrot tops
• Green and red bell peppers
• Tomatoes

Aside from green plants, you can feed guinea pigs with a small amount of fruits. This is because some fruits contain a high amount of sugar and shouldn’t be fed excessively to these animals. Fruits that are safe for guinea pigs include:

• Apple
• Blueberries
• Kiwi
• Papaya
• Pear
• Orange
• Strawberries

Before feeding any of these vegetables and fruits to your guinea pigs, be sure to wash them thoroughly to remove any traces of pesticides or harmful chemical.

On the other hand, no matter how little the amount could be, there are several foods that aren’t edible for guinea pigs. This is because they can contain a high concentration of sugar or fat, are poisonous, or they can cause bloating and digestion issues. With that said, here are some foods that you should not be given to guinea pigs:

• Chocolate
• Cereals
• Nuts
• Mushrooms
• Garlic
• Onions
• Meat
• Bread
• Dairy products
• Nightshade
• Lilies (any kind)
• Rhubarb leaves
• Foxglove
• Potato tops
• Avocado
• Iceberg lettuce
• Corn kernels
• Peanut butter
• Cabbage
• Oak
• Garden shrubs

As a general rule of thumb, high-quality hay, commercially-formulated pellets with added vitamin C, and fresh vegetables or fruits are more than enough to supply guinea pigs with all the nutrients that they need and help them grow.

How To Breed Guinea Pigs

There comes a time when you know that you are ready to handle more guinea pigs but you don’t want to buy any new ones and introduce them into the herd. So, the only option left is to breed the current ones and let them produce the desired extras. Breeding guinea pigs isn’t hard but it surely takes knowledge and skills.

In general, male guinea pigs are called boars, and females are called sows. Sows can breed at the age of five weeks. However, it is only advisable to breed them when they reach the age of three months or older and weigh around 400 grams.

The boars should also reach an age of three to four months before they can be safely bred. The oestrus (heat) cycle of sows generally lasts around 16 days. During this time, the sows will be interested in the boars for about 8 hours. In this situation, the best thing to do is to give them some space and time for mating. Additionally, you can also notice that the sows will generally elevate her rear end by curving her spine downward or mounting on other guinea pigs.

Once they’re pregnant, the sows will take from nine to ten weeks before giving birth to one to six babies. Generally, guinea pigs’ litter size is between two and four piglets. They also develop an obvious bulbous shape and their weight will double.

The sows will also drink more water compared to their normal drinking habit. Keeping the sows’ diet healthy and balanced is also important to prevent any issues that might interfere with their pregnancy. Pregnant sows require more vitamin C compared to what they usually need during their normal days.

Hence, you can feed them with fruits and vegetables that are high in vitamin C such as oranges, strawberries, kales, parsley, brussel sprouts, broccoli, and many more.

It normally takes around one hour for the sows to deliver the piglets if there are no complications or difficulties related to their pregnancy. The piglets can start eating solid food after a few hours of their birth. They generally have hair, open eyes, and teeth.

Health Issues In Guinea Pigs

Guinea pigs are generally hardy and resistant to many diseases. However, you can always monitor and look for any signs of illnesses that can manifest through subliminal changes in their behavior. Oftentimes, they can suffer from some of these common illnesses:

• Alopecia
• Adenovirus infection
• Enlarged lymph nodes
• Respiratory infections
• Broken teeth
• Bumblefoot
• Conjuctivits (pink eye)
• Scurvy (vitamin C deficiency)
• Diarrhea
• Heat stroke
• Metastatic calcification
• Pregnancy toxemia
• Dystocia (difficulty giving birth)
• Reproductive disorders (ovarian cysts and bordetella bacteria)
• Malocclusion
• Tumor
• Abscesses
• Parasite infestations
• Skin problems
• Urinary problems

Some of these diseases might pose a sign for something more serious. If you notice any drastic changes in your guinea pigs, consult a veterinarian as soon as possible to prevent more damage or worse, sudden death in these animals.

Final Thoughts

Raising your own guinea pigs is definitely rewarding if you can successfully raise and manage your own herd in the long run. Aside from being an alternative source of meat, this micro-livestock require a low starting capital, mature faster, and don’t require a large land or space.

Even if you start by treating this activity as a hobby, once you’ve gained enough experience and managed to establish a large number of cavies, you definitely can scale and turn it into a business.

Citations

• https://www.roysfarm.com/guinea-pig-farming
• https://farmhouseguide.com/ultimate-guide-to-raising-guinea-pigs-for-meat
• https://www.guidetoprofitablelivestock.com/howtoraiseguineapigs
• https://afrifarmer.com/guinea-pigs-how-to-start-guinea-pig-farming
• http://scripts.farmradio.fm/radio-resource-packs/package-39-creative-gardening/raising-guinea-pigs-for-meat-or-money
• https://dirtartful.com/2014/11/14/rabbits-vs-guinea-pigs-for-meat-costs-and-considerations-part-1
• https://www.msdvetmanual.com/all-other-pets/guinea-pigs/breeding-and-reproduction-of-guinea-pigs
• https://www.vetzone.com.au/Home/Articles/Article/tabid/1927/ArticleID/246/BreedingGuineaPigs
• https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/life/pets/g25751355/guinea-pig-breeds
• https://www.petco.com/content/petco/PetcoStore/en_US/pet-services/resource-center/food-nutrition/guinea-pig-care-diet-and-feeding-tips
• https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/guinea-pigs-feeding

The post Ultimate Guide to Raising Guinea Pigs for Meat appeared first on Homestead Geek.

Raising healthy pigs on the farm requires more than just a good feeding regimen. It takes a thorough plan and systematic schedule that was once available only to professional breeders but is now applicable for anyone wishing to raise pigs, including beginners.

In this article, we will explore in more detail how to raise pigs on the farm, be it on a small-scale farm or on a larger commercial scale.

Start With The Best Breed

There are more than a hundred breeds of domestic pigs that you can investigate. Filtering out the best ones that could yield a good amount of meat in the long term takes a little homework and research.

These mammals come in different sizes, shapes, and colors but the two important traits that you should look for are their growth rate and carcass yield. They are also divided into two categories which are commercial and heritage.

Commercial breeds are fast growers and as a result, they yield a great amount of meat in a short period of time. However, their meat may not be as flavorful as heritage breeds.

On the other hand, heritage breeds could make excellent free-range animals and their meat is juicy and flavorful. Some of them might be a bit hard to handle due to their nature and temperament but that won’t be a big problem once you know how to handle these breeds.

The size of the pigs when they mature plays a big role in how you want them to serve your needs. Of course, you could go for the smaller breeds, but they may not be the soundest options to go with depending on your goals.

With this in mind, you should opt for lean breeds that could produce flavorful meat.

This table shows some of the most popular pig breeds being raised in the United States. Each breed carries its own standards, lifespan, and what they offer to growers:

Once you’ve selected a specific breed, then decide on the number of young pigs or piglets that you want to purchase. Like other farm animals, pigs don’t grow well when they are lonely. They need companions to develop properly.

The best time to purchase young pigs would be during the spring and summer months. You can scour the internet or newspaper for any local stock for sale. If you feel the need to see the animals before purchasing, then ask around at any pig farms or farm supply stores that may have availibility.

Generally, pigs are weaned and sold when they reach eight weeks old. So, avoid buying pigs that are weaned at six weeks old because they are less healthy and possess weaker immune systems.

If you see any signs of illnesses, lethargy, or physical abnormalities on the pigs, no matter what the sellers might say to convince you, it is best to avoid buying them at all costs. Healthy pigs look fresh and energetic from just a quick glance.

Building An Appropriate Pigpen

Compared to other farms animals, pigs generally require less space. But there’s nothing wrong with providing them with enough room to root and wander inside their pen. A strong, well-constructed, and protected pen will shelter these animals from harsh weather, wet seasons, and predators that could attack them in the middle of the night.

Like any other building project, be sure to check for regulations and laws on building animal housing in your region. Depending on where you live, there might be some fees and permits that you have to obtain before proceeding with this step.

Once you’ve finished with all the legalities, it is time to select a good location for the pigpen. First and foremost, the pigpen should be built on a dry, secured, elevated place that can’t be flooded. Good shade from trees or structures is also important for your pigs to weather the heat in this location.

If possible, find a site that’s located a bit far from any residential areas to avoid noise complaints. Accessibility to roads is a worthwhile consideration to avoid logistics and transportation issues, especially in the winter.

When it comes to building a pigpen, there are no strict rules as to how large or well-equipped the structure should be. Fully grown pigs require at least 20 square feet of space per animal but there is nothing wrong with providing them with an extra of 10 to 30 square feet.

The most important thing is that these animals are comfortable moving, sitting, exercising, eating, and sleeping.

Aside from space, the pigpen itself must be strong and stable to withstand harsh weather. Minimally, the floor of the pen should be raised around 25 inches above the ground while the floorboards should have at least 0.5 to 0.8 inches of space between for ventilation and cleaning purposes.

The pigs’ area should also be divided into different pens according to each phase of their growth and reproduction cycle. The sizes might vary depending on the numbers of expected pigs or piglets that will be placed inside each pen.

Some pig breeders also grow these animals inside portable housing that can be moved to different parts of the farm whenever manure accumulates in one area. This is one of the easiest ways to maintain good hygiene and prevent the pigs from catching diseases.

Then, setting up strong fences on the outside around the pigpen is also important to keep the pigs safe. Aside from predatory attacks, these fences should prevent pigs from escaping. There are many types of fences that you can choose including mesh wire, barbed wire, woven wire, and high-tensile electrical fences.

You can also use portable electric fences to keep the pigs inside a specific area before relocating them to another pen or shelter. Avoid using electrical fences for smaller pigs because they might learn how to escape through the gaps between the wires.

Last but not least, you must also build feeders to feed these animals. There are two options to consider: you either can set a specific time each day to feed the pigs or use self-feeders.

Scheduling a feeding time for the pigs can be quite a hassle, especially in the long term or when your day gets busy. On the other hand, using self-feeders might promote overeating habits in pigs if you don’t monitor the amount of feed that you give.

Either way, each method has its own pros and cons. So, it’s totally up to you to choose the one that suits you best. Don’t forget to clean their feeders regularly.

Feeding The Pigs: Diet and Nutrition

Although it is common knowledge that pigs eat a lot, feeding them with a balanced diet is crucial to facilitate healthier and faster growth. The most basic diet and nutrition that pigs need should contain these six components: proteins, carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, minerals, and water.

Some of the food that you can give to pigs are commercial feeds (made from grains, fruits, and vegetables), leftover or food scraps that are well-cooked and haven’t been contaminated by foreign microorganisms (mold or fungus), and plant-based foods ranging from green leaves, non-poisonous wild plants, grasses, vegetables, and other plant products.

The mainstream myth that pigs eat almost anything is far from the truth. There are also certain foods that you can’t feed to these animals. These include raw and uncooked carcasses, parts of dead animals, any meat products such as bacon, sausages, cheese rolls, and salami.

You also should not feed bones, fish products, or any contaminated foods that might contain harmful chemicals and industrial waste.

Another thing to consider when feeding pigs is that they require different types of feed in different stages of their growth. What piglets eat is different from what you can give to fully grown pigs. Piglets require creep feed that contains around 20 percent protein that is sold in small, digestible, and chewable pellets.

Fully grown pigs weighing around 125 pounds or more are considered mature and their diet should be switched to finishing feed that contains 14 percent protein.

Some breeders will also provide rotational pasture for grazing to lower the feeding costs. Rotating pastures is an important step in providing ample time for the grasses and vegetation to regrow. This could avoid unwanted situations where pigs eat on a specific pasture for too long and destroy the soil.

Lastly, don’t forget to supply these animals with clean drinking water. Like other farm animals, pigs drink a lot, especially during hot seasons.

Generally, different size pigs drink different amounts of water per day. For instance, growing pigs need 1.5 to 2.1 gallons of water, while boars drink between 12 and 15 gallons.

Meanwhile, pregnant sows need between 2.6 to 3.2 gallons of water and lactating sows need between 5.3 to 8 gallons of water. Providing pigs with enough water will ensure that they won’t face dehydration or indigestion when eating. The waterers should also be cleaned regularly to remove any algae build-up or dirt that could accumulate at the bottom.

Dealing With Health Issues

Although pigs are considered hardy animals, this doesn’t eliminate their risk of getting sick or contracting diseases. Oftentimes, you can generally sense when pigs are sick. They will have trouble breathing and standing, their skin and eyes change colors, and they could experience a loss of appetite.

But there are certain diseases that take more than just a mere physical observation. These include:

· Internal parasites

In pigs, internal parasites come in different types and forms. The two most common and serious ones are roundworms and tapeworms. The presence of these worms in pigs may appear through several symptoms such as loss of weight and appetite, anemia, and dullness.

In some cases, dead worms may clog pigs’ intestines, causing blockage of the gut and sudden death. Aside from periodical deworming, worms can be prevented in many ways including cleaning the pens, rotational grazing and pastures, herbal treatments, and antibiotic treatments.

· External parasites

Mange, lice, and myiasis are some of the common external parasites found on pigs. Mange is caused by mites that live on pigs’ skin, causing extreme irritation and itchiness. It appears as lesions or scabs on the head, around the eyes, nose, mouth, face, and may gradually worsen into hyperkeratosis.

Meanwhile, lice could cause extreme irritation when they suck the blood out of the skin. The presence of lice in pigs are red spots or bite wounds, itchiness, and the formation of thick skin with a rough hair coat.

Finally, myiasis is caused by flies that lay eggs on open wounds, producing larvae that may cause further irritation or worse, infection.

Treating mange can be done by administering ivermectin under a veterinarian’s advice. But at home, what you can do is maintain good hygiene in and out of the pigpen.

Lice can be treated by using the insecticide benzene hexachloride and myiasis can be treated using Diazona or Supona. Always remember to consult a veterinarian before using any of these controlled medicines.

· Brucellosis

Symptoms of brucellosis in pigs are stiff legs, extreme fever, lethargy, anorexia, bloody discharge of vulva, and endometritis. Boars with brucellosis might also suffer from an inflammation of one or both of their testicles (orchitis).

As of today, brucellosis is one of the deadly diseases without effective treatment. All you can do is keep good hygiene and try to separate pigs with brucellosis from the healthy ones to prevent infection that could kill the whole herd.

· Leptospirosis

Leptospirosis is an infectious disease caused by a bacterium known as Leptospira interrogans carried by rats and other rodents. Symptoms of leptospirosis in pigs are diarrhea, fever, weight loss, and bloody urine.

It can also affect pregnant sows, leading to the birth of weak piglets that may eventually die. Getting rid of the pests is the first step to fighting this issue. Then, a veterinarian will administer an antibiotic like streptomycin, no matter what ages the pigs might be.

· Mastitis

Mastitis is a bacterial infection that generally happens in sows when their mammary organ is inflamed, causing changes in milk production.

Signs of mastitis in pigs are swollen and painful udder, a decrease in milk production, fever, and lethargy. To treat this disease, keep the piglets away from the sows until their udders are fully recovered. Clean the infected areas regularly and use antibiotics to kill all the bacteria.

· Foot and mouth disease

This disease is highly contagious and it affects hooved animals such as pigs, cows, goats, water buffalo, and sheep. Pigs with foot and mouth diseases may suffer from blisters on thin-skinned areas of their bodies such as eyelids, udders, teats, and anus.

In some cases, their hooves could also become loose and fall off. This disease is generally treated with vaccination. Affected pigs will be quarantined to protect the healthy ones from contracting this disease.

· Swine Dysentery

Also known as the black scours or bloody diarrhea, this illness affects pigs of all ages and could also lead to death. Symptoms of swine dysentery in pigs are fever, greyish or brownish feces, slow growth, rough hair coat, and bloody discharges. Usually, a veterinarian will prescribe antibiotics to fight this disease. Breeders should do a thorough disinfecting process to clean the pigpens.

· Greasy Pig Disease

Symptoms of this disease include a formation of brown greasy areas of skin, scabs with no itch, scales, weight loss, or worse, sudden death. In case your pigs are suffering from this disease, consult a vet for antibiotic treatment.

Good hygiene and regular cleaning of the pigpen are some of the ways to combat this illness. Be sure to separate the sick pigs away from the healthy ones until they are fully recovered.

Benefits and Challenges of Raising Pigs

Raising pigs comes with its own perks. It is a learning process, a lifetime experience that requires your long-term commitment. Although you can reap the benefits continuously, you also have to be ready to face a few challenges when dealing with these animals. For instance:

• It takes a lot of preparation, be it physical or mental. Some owners might develop an emotional attachment to the animals that they have raised. Not to mention, you have to be ready to spend a large sum of money for any emergency situation, especially medical treatments.

• Certain breeds are smart and they can find a way to escape their pen. In this situation, you will have to build an escape-proof pigpen or shelters with strong fences. If these animals escape, it might take quite some time to catch them.

• Pigs are voracious eaters. They eat a lot and poop a lot more. Aside from cleaning their feeder, you also have to keep their pen clean. This is important, especially during summer months where the heat might produce a smelly environment inside the pen.

• When pigs are being kept indoors or in a closed housing system, their ability and natural behavior will become restricted in these confined spaces. This will inhibit the pigs’ ability to express their animalistic nature, rendering them to feel bored, distressed, and frustrated.

On the other hand, when you can sustain and keep these animals until they are fully mature, there are many benefits that you can gain including:

• Pigs could provide you with a continuous supply of high-quality meat without breaking the bank. With their high meat-to-bone ratio, they can yield up to 70 percent of delicious meat. This is less costly than buying grocery store meats. Plus, you will always trust the meat that you eat because it comes from the animals that you raised.

• They are low-maintenance compared to other farms animals. For instance, you can use any leftovers or scraps from your kitchen can be used to feed pigs. Feeding slops (a mixture of various leftovers) to pigs are one of the eco-friendly ways to reduce wastes that could pollute the environment.

• Pigs manure can be used to fertilize your land or farm. By collecting their waste or letting these animals roam free inside your property, they can fertilize the soil and promote the better growth of plants. The best thing is that you don’t have to fork out any cash to buy fertilizers in years to come.

• Pigs reproduce at a faster rate compared to other farms animals. Generally, a sow can give birth (farrow) to around 8 to 18 piglets at a time. Due to its gestation period that lasts around 4 months, it can farrow up to two times per year.

Final Thoughts

With a combination of the best breeds, a thorough plan, a good diet, and a lot of hard work, raising pigs on the farm can become one of the most rewarding activities.

If you’re just starting out, it might take a little time for you to handle a whole herd. But as long as you can focus on just one breed before deciding to add another into the mix, there is no reason why you can’t make it work and enjoy the process along the way.

Citations

• https://www.thepigsite.com/articles/how-to-farm-pigs-feeding
• https://smallbusiness.chron.com/raise-hogs-profit-small-farm
• https://melissaknorris.com/howtoraisepigsformeat/
• http://www.timbercreekfarmer.com/how-to-raise-pigs-naturally/
• https://www.theprairiehomestead.com/2014/12/raising-pigs
• https://toshfarms.net/animal-care/how-we-raise-pigs/
• https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/pig-farm
• https://www.rspca.org.au/take-action/pig-farming
• https://porkgateway.org/resource/introduction-to-raising-pigs/
• https://www.roysfarm.com/raising-pigs/
• https://www.thepigsite.com/articles/how-to-farm-pigs-housing
• https://www.thepigsite.com/articles/how-to-farm-pigs-health-issues

The post Ultimate Guide To Raising Pigs (On The Farm) appeared first on Homestead Geek.

It goes without saying that these birds are active and can be found commonly in the wild. But did you know that these birds can be raised for their meats, eggs, and as ornamental pets?

Quail were domesticated around the 11th century in Japan. Originally kept as songbirds, they were brought to Europe and other places in the 1950s.

Since then, the demand for these short-necked game birds began to increase as people realized that these plump birds offer more benefits, almost similar to raising other poultry birds. In fact, there are people who have successfully built a small quail farm and raised these birds in their backyard.

This article will serve as the ultimate guide to successfully raising quail, be it as a hobby or for profit. 

Choosing The Best Quail Breed

Quail can be an alternative to raising chickens because they provide the same things: meat and eggs. Their meat is rich in nutrients like protein, zinc, and iron, while their eggs are also high in protein, riboflavin, vitamin B12, and folate.

What’s more interesting is that some people also raise quail for hunting and as ornamental birds. These poultry birds are also quieter than chickens, making them suitable for people with small backyards or the ones that live in an urban neighborhood.

There are more than 130 quail breeds all over the world and choosing the ones that suit your need is crucial in initiating your quail-raising endeavor.

Here are some of the common quail breeds that you can find in the United States and other regions across the globe. Each breed is unique and different from other another. So, be sure to check for the breed that is aligned with your goals.

· Bobwhite Quail (Northern)

Northern Bobwhite quail are native to the United States, Canada, Cuba, and Mexico. Depending on your location, you might need a permit to raise this breed.

Although they grow slower than the other breeds, their agility and energetic behavior make them the best choice for gaming purposes.

Aside from sports, these quail can also be raised for their meat and eggs. Northern Bobwhites could reach up to 6 ounces in weight and lay around 100 to 200 eggs per year.

· King Quail

Also known as the blue-breasted quail and Chinese-painted quail, these birds originated in Asia and primarily inhabit hillsides, farmland, and lowland plains. King quail mature quickly, which takes around 12 weeks to reach their maximum weight of 2 ounces.

Males can be distinguished by their beautiful plumages that come in different shades of blue, silver, chocolate, and brown. Females can be recognized by their delicate brownish plumages.

These quail can be raised both for meat and eggs. If you’re thinking of raising this breed, be sure to keep them in a warm environment because they aren’t built to thrive in colder climates.

· Coturnix Quail

The Coturnix quail are being recognized as the most suitable breed for beginners due to their fast growth rate, which takes around six weeks for these birds to reach full maturity. They are also known as the Pharaoh quail, Japanese quail, and jumbo quail.

Coturnix quail are easy to raise and they weigh between 4.9 to 5.6 ounces. Aside from producing a good amount of meat, these quail are great layers.

They can lay up to 300 eggs per year and these eggs take less than 18 days to hatch. These birds are also docile, calm, and don’t require much attention.

· Jungle Bush-Quail

Jungle bush-quail can be found in the Indian subcontinent, specifically in India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. They can be characterized by their plump, rounded bodies, rusty throat, pinkish cinnamon under feathers, and rusty-white eyebrows.

Jungle bush-quail can lay between 5 and 7 eggs at a time with an incubation period between 19 and 20 days. These birds are shy and tend to spend most of their time in grassy covers, dry scrub, and bush, or bushy lowlands.

· Gambel’s Quail

Gambel’s quail are native to certain regions in the United States such as Texas, Arizona, Colorado, and New Mexico.

They can be recognized by their bluish-gray or brown plumages and scaly feathers on the lower part of the body. At maturity, these birds could weigh between 5.1 and 6.5 ounces and reach up to eleven inches in body length.

Like Bobwhite quail, these birds are aggressive and take quite a long time to mature, which is around six months. Gambel’s quail are being raised mainly as ornamental birds. Females typically lay up to 20 eggs at a time and take between 20 and 24 days to incubate the eggs.

· California Quail

California quail are another beautiful bird that can be raised for exhibition and ornamental purposes. These birds also go by their other names: the valley quail or the California valley quail.

The males can be characterized by plump bodies, comma-shaped black crest, and black-and-white markings on the neck, while females possess brownish-gray plumages without obvious markings. Females also lay and incubate a litter of 10 to 16 eggs before nurturing the chicks until they are fully grown.

· Blue Scale Quail

Blue Scale quail is one of the exotic breeds that can be found mostly in Colorado, Kansas, and central Mexico. They are also known as the ‘Cotton Top’ due to the plumage on top of the head.

These quail can be recognized by their distinctive white ‘cotton top’ crest, grayish-brown head, dark-colored bills, blue plumage, and grayish-brown tail feathers.

Females can be distinguished by yellow throats and dark shaft streaks on the side of their faces. At maturity, these birds can grow between 10 and 12 inches long.

Blue scale quail are favored as great game birds and they are raised mostly for gaming purposes. But they are also great layers and are able to produce up to 30 spotted eggs at a time.

· Mountain Quail

Mountain quail are native to regions from British Columbia in Canada to certain areas of Washington, western United States, Baja Peninsula, and Mexico. They are also considered the largest quail in the United States.

These unique quail can be characterized by their long, dark-colored head plume, gray chest, white, and chest coloration on their bodies.

Females typically lay between 9 and 15 creamy eggs at a time. Then, these eggs will be incubated between 24 and 25 days. Both parents will nurture and protect the chicks until they are able to live independently.

· Mearns Quail

The Mearns quail is also known as the Montezuma quail or fool quail. They can be found mostly in the south-central of the United States and Mexico.

These birds can be are slightly shorter and heavier than Bobwhite quail. Males can be recognized by their black and white harlequin-marked heads, brown and black checkered back, and dark mahogany chest and underparts.

Females are slightly different with light brown or cream circles around the eyes and mottled cream feathers. These quail typically lay between 10 and 12 eggs before incubating them for 25 to 26 days. They are considered as one of the best game birds for hunting in the United States.

Don’t forget to check for local ordinances and regulations in your location. Depending on where you live, you might have to purchase a game license if you intend to raise these animals as game birds.

But if you’re looking to farm and raise quail for meat and eggs, be sure to check for minimum space requirements that you have to follow. Be ready to buy a permit if you’re looking to raise these birds commercially.

Establishing Your Quail Covey

After you’ve decided on which breed to raise, it is time to determine the flock size. Quail don’t need a large space like chickens or ducks. You can raise at least six quail in the same space required for raising one chicken.

If you’re just starting and don’t have a large space to spare, set an appropriate number of birds that you can handle before making any purchase.

Most importantly, the best male-to-female ratio is 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3. A ratio of 1 male to 1 female will produce a high number of eggs while a ratio of 1:2 and 1:3 are suitable for breeding chicks.

To establish a covey, you can either buy cheepers (day-old quail chicks) or fertilized eggs that you can hatch in an incubator. When starting out, you will have to buy already hatched chicks and from there, learn how to hatch your own to reduce the costs.

You can buy both fertilized eggs and cheepers from any supply store and quail breeders. The safest place to purchase cheepers is from reputable and certified places recognized by the National Poultry Improvement Program.

When you decide to hatch the eggs, you will have to invest in an incubator to keep the eggs. Generally, the eggs must be kept at 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit for seven to ten days. Then, transfer them into an incubator for another three to seven days at 99.5 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

On day 15, you can transfer the newly hatched quail into a brooder. Aside from using a heat lamp to create a warmer environment inside the brooder, you can also use a reptile heating pad and set the temperature at 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

This pad should be placed at the corner while keeping the heat lamp at the center as the main source of heat. After the first week, remove the heat lamp, and finally, when the brooding phase reaches three weeks, you can remove the heating pad.

Finally, when baby quails reach four weeks old, you can transfer them into an adult shelter. Don’t forget to set proper ventilation to avoid any sudden drop or increase in temperature inside the brooder that could affect the baby quails’ health.

Setting Up Quail Housing

When it comes to setting up quail housing, it is no different than building a shelter for chickens and other poultry birds. They need all the basic necessities for proper housing: an ample space, a strong structure, and protection from predators.

Although quail don’t need a large space, it is best for you to provide them with at least one square foot of space per quail. The larger they are, the more size that they need. If you’re keeping these birds in cages or hutches, their housing should be built on an elevated land or structure that goes between 12 and 18 inches tall.

This could avoid unwanted issues like flooding and a wet environment that could happen during the rainy season.

Then, set up proper ventilation inside their shelter. Generally, quail will produce droppings that could influence the pH level in the air. This will lead to a higher concentration of ammonia that will affect their breathing. It is also wise for you to leave some room for their feeders and waterers.

Depending on how large the flock size is, you will have to estimate how many feeders and waterers that you should provide inside their housing. Most importantly, all of these things should be kept cleaned and free from any contamination.

Finally, quail need beddings to nest and rest. You can use any materials that don’t trap water and moisture such as burrowing straw, dried hay, and grassy materials. This is where they will sleep and spend most of their after laying eggs.

Additionally, you can also provide a small area for a dust bath. Dust bathing serves to protect these birds from external parasites while simultaneously regulating their oil gland.

There are a few types of housing that you can build for your quail. These include:

Quail Cages

The most common size for a quail cage is 15 inches high by 18 inches wide. Depending on how large the quail is, this standard-size quail enclosure can fit between five to ten quail.

Most cages are designed with a slanted floor so that the eggs would roll to egg trays placed outside the cage. Then, droppings can also fall easily into a tray that is placed below each cage.

There are two types of cages that you can choose such as:

· Stacked cage

These types of cages are stacked on top of each other with the pens separated to prevent droppings from falling into the cage below. At first, you purchase one cage and add another once your operation grows larger. These cages can also be purchased in tier bundles starting from 2 up to 6.

Stacked cages are suitable for people with limited space or commercial breeders that are looking to maximize their operation in a small area. Cleaning this type of cage might be a bit hard because the quail are being crammed into a smaller space.

· Welded-wire cage

Welded-wire cages are slightly larger than stacked cages. They are properly ventilated, easy to clean, with enough space for feeders and waterers. Removable trays will be placed underneath these cages for dropping removal.

Once you’ve noticed that the trays are filled with feces, you can turn these wastes into compost. Hygiene issues would be the least of your concern when raising quail in welded-wire cages.

· Quail hutches

Hutches can be used to keep your quail outdoors. These pen-like structures are generally much safer due to their tight-knit wire that could protect the birds from small predators such as weasels or snakes.

You can also use pre-made chicken hutches or rabbit hutches, given that they are still secure and easy to clean. Droppings are also allowed to fall on the ground through the wire flooring.

· Quail pen

Pens are another great alternative to safer quail housing. They are usually built from hardwire with a thickness between ½ or ¼ inches that are strong enough to deter small predators.

There are three types of pens that you can choose such as:

Recall pen

These pens are suitable for hunters or breeders that allow their quail to roam freely during the day before training them to return at the end of the day. Recall pens are designed to teach quail to return to their housing every day by placing hens in the enclosure to attract the rest of the covey back to them.

Flight pen

Flight pens are designed specifically for hunting or game quail. These tall pens are will allow quail to take flight and learn how to flush.

Flight pens are also built in a secluded area, away from human interaction. This is to ensure that quail can embrace their wild nature without any interference from humans and outside influence.

Ground pen

Finally, ground pens are built close to the natural ground that allows quail to embrace their foraging instinct. This type of pen is suitable for growers who prefer to let their quail free-range in a designated and protected area under minimum supervision.

However, raising quail in ground pens will expose them to flooding issues and external parasites infestation.  

Quail Diet and Nutrition

Feeding quail with a balanced and nutritious diet is important to promote their growth while boosting their immune system. At each stage of their lives, quail require different types of dietary needs.

Most adult quail are omnivores and are generally easy to feed. But cheepers (baby quail) require high-protein feed.

Soon after they hatched, baby quail should be fed with ‘starter’ feed.

Some starter feed contains around 23% protein, which is also sufficient in facilitating baby quail’s growth. Starter feed should only be fed until they reach eight weeks old.

From eight weeks onward, switch their diet to grower feed. Grower or finisher feed should contain around 18% protein that promotes bone and muscle growth without producing excessive fat. Finisher feed is highly beneficial, especially for eggs and meat quail.

Maintain this diet until they reach 20 weeks old or right before they are sent for slaughter. You can also incorporate medicated feed into their diet. Medicated feed helps to ward off parasitic infections (coccidiosis) that generally happen both in baby and adult quail.

Aside from basic nutrients, quail should also be provided with vitamins and trace mineral premixes that help in promoting excellent body growth. These tables show some of the basic vitamin and mineral requirements needed by these birds:

Vitamin Requirements

*IU = International Unit

Trace Mineral Premix

Vitamins and trace minerals premixes should be added into the quail’s diet and not be fed directly as primary feed. Most feed ingredients contain all vitamins and minerals needed by quail. All you have to do is find commercial premixes that offer the same amount of ingredients or the ones that come close to the amount stated above.

Avoid premixes that contain a higher amount of vitamins or trace minerals to avoid nutrient imbalance. Generally, this type of premix is also more expensive.

Final Thoughts

Above all, quail will make great dual-purpose poultry birds and game birds if they receive all the basic necessities and their environment is ideal for them to thrive and reproduce continuously.

Although beginners might face some challenges in raising these birds, they are definitely worth the time and effort. Plus, they are easy to handle, low-maintenance, and don’t require too much attention like other animals.

Citations

• https://farmhouseguide.com/best-quail-breeds-for-meat/
• https://farmingmethod.com/best-quail-breeds/
• https://cs-tf.com/quail-breeds/
• https://www.anoffgridlife.com/raising-quail/
• https://www.backdoorsurvival.com/backyard-quail/
• https://www.hobbyfarms.com/quail-raising-tips/
• https://www.communitychickens.com/3-quail-habitats-zw01911ztil/
• https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/the-5-best-cages-that-make-raising-quail-easy/
• https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/what-to-consider-when-building-your-first-quail-coop/
• https://www.roysfarm.com/quail-farming/#Feeding
• https://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/feeding-quail
• https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/quail-feed-and-diet/

The post Ultimate Guide To Raising Quail appeared first on Homestead Geek.

Donkeys were first domesticated and bred in Egypt and North America for their meat and milk. Today, they are considered multi-purpose animals. As a matter of fact, donkeys have been used in many underdeveloped countries to herd livestock, pull heavy loads, and do other farm work.

If you are thinking of raising donkeys and making them a part of your family, then look no further. This article will serve as the ultimate guide for you to successfully raise these animals. Without wasting any time, let’s jump right into it.

Donkeys or Mules: Know The Difference

Knowing how to differentiate between donkeys and mules is important in your equine selection. You don’t want to end up purchasing the wrong ones due to a lack of information and end up regretting it later.

As you already know, donkeys are generally short and hardier than horses. This is why they have been used to carry heavy loads since ancient times.

On the other hand, mules are produced when a male donkey is crossed with a mare, or a female horse. Mules generally inherit both of their parents’ traits and characteristics. To produce mules, you can’t cross a mule with another mule. This is because they are sterile and aren’t able to reproduce.

There are also other physical traits that separate donkeys from mules. Donkeys typically have long ears, flat backs, coarse manes, small hooves, and thin tails. They also don’t have the wither bump that is generally present on horses.

Meanwhile, mules carry both donkeys’ and horses’ traits in their genetics. To any untrained eyes, trying to recognize mules can be quite a challenge. But if you look close, there are certain physical traits that separate mules from donkeys.

For instance, mules have flatter spines and a much larger body size. They inherit the strength from horses and the endurance from donkeys.

Also, mules possess a delicate bone structure and tend to follow orders quicker than donkeys. But this doesn’t necessarily mean untrained mules are easy to handle. Like donkeys, mules also need proper training and time with their owners.

Choosing The Best Donkey Breeds

Donkeys are commonly raised for milk, draught work, and family pets. They come in different colors, shapes, and forms, and in several distinct breeds. Be it purebred or crossbreds, donkeys are classified based on their distinctive features including physical traits, colors, sizes, and coat textures.

Certain breeds have also been categorized based on their native place and regions where they mostly can be found. Here are the 11 most popular donkey breeds that can be found in the United States and other regions in the world:

· Standard

Being the most common donkeys out there, standard donkeys generally stand between 3 and 4 feet tall. They are also called English donkeys, Irish donkeys, Common Ass, and Anglo-Irish donkeys. They are docile, friendly, easy to handle, and are able to get along with livestock as companions.

Most standard donkeys come in different colors ranging from black, brown, gray, and a combination of all these three colors. A white coat is considered rare for this breed.

· Abyssinian

Abyssinian donkeys are similar to the Sudanese Pack donkeys. They can be commonly found in Ethiopia and can live up to 40 years old. These donkeys stand between 2.6 and 3.3 feet tall and weigh around 190 to 450 pounds. Their coats generally come in two colors; slate gray and chestnut brown.

· Asinara

These donkeys are native to the island of Asinara, on the northwest coast of Sardinia, Italy. Descended from wild donkeys, Asinaras are mostly gray in color with small carrier groups that possess the albino genes in their DNA. There are around 120 of these donkeys on the island while others are being protected and preserved in other regions in Italy including Alghero, Foresta Burgos, Emilia Romagna, and Tuscany.

· Amiatina

The Amiatinas are another Italian donkeys that originated in Tuscany, Italy. These medium to large-sized donkeys almost came to close to extinction in the early 20th century, right after the war. Preventive measures were taken to preserve this breed and in 2007, they were considered as endangered species.

Amiatinas possess mouse-gray coats, with cross-shaped markings on their dorsal and shoulder, and random stripes on their legs. Being a hardy breed, these donkeys can reach a height of 4.6 feet and weigh around 330 to 440 pounds.

· Andalusian

The Andalusians are one of the oldest European breeds and they have existed since 3,000 years ago where they were used primarily by the Spanish military for stud.

These donkeys are native to the province of Cordoba in Andalusia, Spain. They generally stand between 4.9 and 5.2 feet high. Today, these donkeys are categorized as endangered species due to their low population in the world.

· Bourbonnais

These donkeys originated in the Auvergne region of central France. The Bourbonnais donkeys generally stand between 3.9 and 4.4 feet high. They can be recognized by their dark dorsal and shoulder stripes, zebra-striped legs, and grey-white coloration on their lower muzzle and belly.

Their coats also come in different colors ranging from black, brown, bay,  chocolate, and dark bay. Even today, these donkeys are being used mainly as pack animals for hiking or carrying loads at farms.

· Catalan

Catalan donkeys are native to the region of Catalonia in north-eastern Spain and south-western France. They are one of the oldest donkey breeds in the world and are categorized as endangered species. Today, there are only around 500 purebred Catalans in the world.

The Catalans are large-sized donkeys that weigh around 900 to 1200 pounds and stand between 4.5 and 4.7 feet high. They can be recognized by their thick dark-colored coats, long ears, and white coloration on their muzzle.

· Cotentin

Cotentin donkeys are native to the lower region of Normandy in northwest France. Before, they were primarily used in farm work and as pack animals to transport goods and heavy loads. Today, these donkeys are used in many modern activities ranging from trekking, recreational and therapeutic riding, and also as companions or family pets.

Contentin donkeys generally weigh around 330 to 551 pounds and stand between 3.7 and 4.4 feet high. These donkeys can be recognized by their dove-grey coats, zebra-striped legs, white muzzle, and light-colored underbelly. They also have distinctive, dark stripes on their back and shoulder.

· Mammoth Jack Stock

Mammoth Jack Stock donkeys are dubbed as the largest donkeys in the world. They were developed in the United States by George Washington back in his early years.

A few breeds were used to create Mammoth Jack Stock including the Maltese, Andalusian, Poitou, Catalan, and Majorcan. These large donkeys can be recognized by their distinctive dark brown coats and white coloration on their muzzle and underbelly. They stand approximately between 4.6 and 4.8 feet high.

· Poitou

These large-sized donkeys originated from the Poitou region in France. In history, they were mainly used to breed large mules for farm work. These donkeys are famous for their distinctive thick coats called ‘cadanette’ that are long, thick, and look like ungroomed cords.

However, due to hygiene issues, most owners of this breed tend to keep the coat short. Poitou donkeys generally weigh around 750 to 950 and stand between 4.4 to 5 feet high. They also can be recognized by their large heads, sturdy neck, brown or black coats, grey underbelly, white nose, and eye rings.

· Mary

Mary donkeys are native to the Askhaad and Mary regions of Turkmenia. These large-sized donkeys stand between 3.8 and 3.9 feet tall and weigh around 650 pounds. Being hardy, they can thrive in hot and semi-arid environments. Most donkeys from this breed are used as pack animals for mountain expeditions and rescue missions.

Building The Donkey Shelter

Donkeys love to spend their time grazing and roaming in the open field. However, they also need a safe indoor space that can protect them from the outdoor elements, harsh climates, and changing weather. Unlike horses, these equines also don’t have greasy coats that protect their bodies from water and wet environments.

Donkeys don’t need a fancy shelter to live happily. A clean, dry, three-sided barn or stable with properly-built fences is more than enough. Ideally, you should provide donkeys with 40 square feet of indoor space or an acre of space per animal.

But what’s more important is the shelter is properly ventilated. This feature is extremely important if you want your donkeys to stay inside the shelter, especially during hot and cold seasons. You can also insulate the barn or install basic circulating fans and indoor water misting fans to solve this issue.

If you’re living in a much colder region, an enclosed or four-sided shelter would be the most appropriate shelter to protect your donkeys from the weather. For long-term uses, the shelter must also be built from materials that could withstand extreme climates.

Then, you can cover the floor or the ground with slip-resistant materials to prevent your donkeys from slipping or falling when they run, especially during rainy days.

Inside the shelter, donkeys also need proper beddings for them to rest and sleep. Straw bedding is the most suitable one, especially barley straw. This is because it dries quicker, is light, easy to move, and doesn’t trap moisture. The only thing that you should do is regular bedding changes when the straw is dirty, spoiled, or moldy.

As long as there is enough room for them to walk, exercise, and move, building a good shelter for your donkeys is not that hard.

Feeding Habit: Diet And Nutrition

Although they have the ability to survive in semi-arid environments with low access to highly nutritious food, donkeys still need a balanced diet that consists of fiber, roughage, vitamins, and other supplementary nutrients. Like other equines, donkeys are also ‘trickle feeders’.

Through trickle feeding, donkeys are able to keep their digestive system healthy by continuously feeding on a fibrous diet in small quantities for the whole day.

To make sure your donkeys grow properly, there are a few essential foods that you must include in their diet. For instance:

· Hay

Donkeys need a diet that is high in fiber, low in protein and sugar. To achieve this, you can provide them with a good amount of hay. There are different types of hay that you can purchase for these animals such as meadow hay and seed hay.

Meadow hay is highly fibrous. It is produced from a mixture of grasses grown on old pasture. Meanwhile, seed hay is produced from planted crops such as timothy or rye.

No matter which hay they eat, be sure to check for any signs of ragwort. Ragwort poisoning can lead to death when donkeys ingest these dried plants that are hard to identify once they’re mixed with hay. Lastly, always keep the hay fresh and clean during winter.

This is because, in cold months, wet and humid environments promote the growth of mold on the hay. Moldy hay could cause allergies in donkeys or worse, make them sick when they feed on these toxic fungi.

· Straw

Feeding your donkeys with straw will ensure that the amount of fiber in their diet is at an optimum level. There are many options to go with but the best one would be high-quality barley straw. Barley straw is high in fiber, low in sugar and calories.

You don’t have to worry about weight issues in donkeys when they constantly feed on this food. On the other hand, if your donkeys are slightly underweight, you can feed them with an oat straw that is high in nutrients and calories.

But if you’re raising young donkeys, feed them with wheat straw that contains low-energy value but is highly fibrous. This can keep their newly grown teeth and gums healthy by not eating foods that are hard to chew.

· High-Fiber Pellets

High-fiber pellets are another additional feed that you can add atop hay and straw. These pellets can be purchased at any equine market or supply store. When feeding your donkeys for the first time, add a little water and low-sugar chaff into the mix.

This could prevent colic and choking issues in these animals. You can also grind high-fiber pellets into a fine mash and feed it to young donkeys or the ones with teeth problems.

· Dried Sugar Beet Pulp

Sugar beet, be it fresh or dried, is a fibrous, highly nutritious plant that can be used as a treat for your donkeys. Additionally, you can also add this into the mix of their primary food. When feeding them with dried sugar beet pulp, be sure to soak these cubed morsels with water at least 24 hours earlier.

Some specialized stores are also selling quick-soak sugar beet products that can be used between 10 and 15 minutes after soaking.

· Chaff Products

Chaff products are made from the dried, scaly casing of cereal grains, finely chopped straw, or even scaly dried plants. They are considered as one of the trickle feeding fibers that promotes the production of saliva in donkeys and buffers the acidity inside their stomach.

Chaff products are good for donkeys with laminitis or those suffering from high levels of sugar in the blood. This is due to the fact these products are highly fibrous, soft, and contain a low amount of glucose.

· Fruits And Vegetables

Apples, bananas, carrots, pears, strawberries, turnips, and celery are some of the fruits and vegetables that donkeys can eat. Although these things are highly nutritious, they should only be given to your donkeys as treats and appetizers. Also, be sure to cut or chop those fruits into tiny pieces to avoid choking problems.

· Minerals

Supplementing your donkeys with essential minerals can prevent any deficiencies that might interfere with their growth. This can be done by providing them with salt licks or mineral blocks. Always check the amount and ratio of minerals that these blocks offer to avoid mineral poisoning. Also, don’t feed donkeys with mineral blocks made for cattle, pigs, and livestock.

Last but not least, provide your donkeys with a constant supply of fresh and clean water. During hot seasons, they can drink a large amount of water to compensate for the external heat they receive.

Schedule regular cleaning of their feeders and waterers to remove any mold build-up or contamination caused by dirt and microorganisms. During cold months, always check whether their water has frozen.

Health Issues To Be Aware Of

Being hardy doesn’t mean donkeys are resistant to most diseases. Like horses, they are also prone to suffer from different illnesses, but in their own ways. Oftentimes, it is quite hard for donkey owners to detect any signs of diseases in their donkeys because these animals won’t show obvious behavioral changes when they’re sick.

But with enough time and experience, you will learn how to spot when your donkeys are under the weather. Here are some of the health issues that commonly happen in donkeys:

· Laminitis

This condition happens due to the inflammation of the laminae that connects the horse’s hoof to the coffin bone. One of the common types of laminitis in donkeys is support limb laminitis caused by injuries or abscesses.

· Arthritis

Statistically, older donkeys are prone to suffer from athritis. However, it can also happen in younger ones due to other factors including malnutrition, injury, restriction to move freely, and infection. Depending on symptoms and causes, it is better for you to consult a veterinarian if your donkeys are suffering from this illness.

· Lungworm

Lungworms are parasites known as Dictyocaulus arnfieldi, that live inside a donkey’s body system. Donkeys with lungworms will show symptoms such as coughing and irritation of their lungs. Veterinarians will use a fecal sample for further diagnoses before deworming these animals with ivermectin.

· Jack sores

Also known as summer sores, this disease is caused by house flies and stable flies that lay eggs on open wounds or near skin abrasions on donkeys. When the eggs hatch, the larval will cause irritation, extreme itchiness, and mild pain that takes a longer time to heal.

· Brucellosis

Brucellosis can be categorized into two types: poll evil and fistulous withers. In donkeys, fistulous withers commonly happens when the supraspinous bursa located near the withers are inflamed due to injuries, trauma, or infectious bacteria known as Brucella abortus.

· Dental problems

Teeth problems happen frequently as donkeys get older. But younger donkeys can also suffer from dental issues such as wolf teeth that grow on each side of the upper jaw. This could cause discomfort, especially when eating. Additionally, calcium deficiency could also contribute to brittle and weak teeth.

· Conjunctivitis

Conjunctivitis occurs around the donkey’s eyes, especially on the inner eyelid and the surrounding membrane. This condition is caused by many things such as dust, flies, fungal infections, viral diseases, injury, and irritants to the eyes. Pink Eye is another name for conjunctivitis that is caused by infections.

· Colic

Colic generally presents as abdominal pain. Causes and symptoms might vary depending on the diagnoses made by a veterinarian. There are different types of colic such as spasmodic colic, gas colic, torsion colic, and many more.

Symptoms of colic in donkeys appear with sudden behavioral changes including shortness of breath, dullness, lethargy, lack of appetite, excessive sweating, discoloration of gum, and raised heart rate.

· Sarcoids

These skin tumors are harder to treat at home. When you see any signs of thickened skin, lesions, or wart-like bumps on your donkeys, it is best for you to consult a veterinarian for help. Sarcoids can be found in any part of the body but commonly appear on the eyes, head, underlegs, mid-body, and groin.

Final Thoughts

Although these equines aren’t nearly as famous as horses, they still have a place in people’s hearts. Whether you’re a beginner homesteader, a large-scale farm owner, or simply just an animal lover, there is no reason why you can’t raise donkeys successfully all by yourself.

Like other animals, donkeys need their owner’s love and attention. When they are happy, their health will improve more than you can imagine!

Citations

• https://animals.mom.com/how-to-raise-a-donkey-as-a-pet-7804944.html
• https://www.thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk/what-we-do/knowledge-and-advice/for-owners/what-to-feed-your-donkeys
• https://hellohomestead.com/what-are-donkeys-good-for/
• https://www.thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk/what-we-do/knowledge-and-advice/about-donkeys
• https://modernfarmer.com/2014/06/modern-farmers-guide-guard-donkeys/
• http://afs.okstate.edu/breeds/other/donkey/
• https://petkeen.com/types-of-donkey-breeds/
• https://donkeywise.org/donkey-info/about-donkeys/
• https://opensanctuary.org/article/building-a-good-home-for-donkeys/
• https://opensanctuary.org/article/common-donkey-health-issues/
• https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/thehorse/files/S/15-facts-about-donkey-health.pdf

The post Ultimate Guide To Raising Donkeys appeared first on Homestead Geek.

Below are the 25 vegetables that you can cook and eat for dinner! For this post, you will find out how to make healthy foods tastier and more appealing, even to kids!

1. Asparagus

Asparagus comes in a wide variety of colors, including white, green, and purple, although green is the most common.

This vegetable is easy to find, low in calories, but is packed with nutrients and minerals, such as vitamin K, folate, and it is also a good source of antioxidants. Asparagus also boosts digestive health, helps lower blood pressure, and aids in a healthy pregnancy.

This healthy vegetable can be boiled, steamed, broiled, sautéed, and roasted. One of the many easy-to-follow recipes of asparagus is simply roasting it with lemon.

Season the asparagus with salt, pepper, olive oil, and lemon zest before roasting. Grated garlic may also be added for a palatable savory taste. 

Cooked asparagus lasts 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator, but it can also be frozen in an airtight container to extend its shelf life.

2. Bell Pepper

Bell pepper, also called capsicum, is classified as a fruit, although it is commonly utilized as a vegetable. Bell pepper is eaten either raw or cooked. They can also be dried or turned into powder.

Bell peppers come in a variety of colors, including red, yellow, green, and orange. Considered as healthy food, bell peppers are low in calories, but are full of vitamins and antioxidants that are essential to the human body.

Bell peppers are usually stuffed with ground meat and other vegetables before they are baked. They can also be sautéed, or added into pasta dishes.

Cooked bell pepper lasts 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator, but it can also be frozen in an airtight container to lengthen its shelf life.

3. Broccoli

Broccoli is packed with vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, vitamin K, fiber, potassium, and iron. Compared to other veggies, broccoli contains more protein. Broccoli also helps prevent cancer, lowers cholesterol levels, and improves eye health.

Broccoli can be eaten raw or cooked. However, a recent study proves that mild steaming maximizes the health benefits of this green vegetable. Aside from mild steaming, broccoli can also be roasted.

Combine it with garlic, parmesan, and a little amount of fresh lemon juice and you will enjoy it even more.

Cooked broccoli can be frozen, but its texture will be watery when thawed. It is best to freeze broccoli before it is fully cooked.

4. Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts are low in calories, but high in vitamin K, vitamin C, vitamin A, folate, manganese, and fiber. It is also rich in antioxidants, and like broccoli, brussels sprouts may help in cancer prevention. In addition, this healthy vegetable may also aid in maintaining ideal blood sugar levels, reduce inflammation, and can be easily added to anyone’s diet.

Brussels sprouts are usually sautéed with oil, salt, pepper, and lemon, but other ingredients like bacon, herbs, onion, toasted nuts, and parmesan can also be added. This vegetable can be roasted, and used as a side dish to pork, chicken, or pasta dishes.

Lastly, brussels sprouts can be baked until they turn crispy. Combine with balsamic vinegar and honey sauce to add just the right amount of sweetness and tanginess.

When frozen properly, brussels sprouts can be stored for about a year.

5. Butternut Squash

Butternut squash is a fruit but is eaten as a vegetable. It is an orange-fleshed, healthy food known for its sweet and nutty taste which makes it a great addition to savory dishes. Not only is it delicious, but butternut squash is also loaded with vitamins and minerals and low in protein.

Butternut squash may be roasted along with the syrup, cinnamon, and herbs, or it may also be turned into soup.

An easy recipe is Quick Butternut Squash Curry using store-bought red curry paste, vegetables such as broccoli, bell pepper, mushrooms, or any vegetable that you like. Crispy tofu may also be added for more protein.

Butternut squash can be frozen raw or cooked. It is best to freeze cooked butternut squash by turning it into purée first then storing in a resealable bag for it to last up to three months.

6. Cabbage

Another popular vegetable is cabbage. It comes in various colors, including white, green, red, and purple. Cabbage can be found in many dishes from different cuisines. It is usually added to kimchi, coleslaw, and salads.

Cabbage is packed with beneficial nutrients, and they also have impressive health benefits, such as reducing inflammation, aiding in digestion, and keeping your heart healthy. Moreover, it also helps in reducing blood pressure and cholesterol levels.

Cabbage can be fried, boiled, stir-fried, steamed, or sautéed along with lemon and garlic. This healthy vegetable can also be used to make salads and added to your favorite soup dish.

Cooked cabbage can be frozen for about 3 to 5 months.

7. Carrots

Carrots are crunchy, sweet, and nutritious root vegetables that can be eaten raw, or added to a variety of popular dishes. Like cabbage, it also comes in different colors, such as orange, yellow, red, white, and purple.

Carrots are a good source of beta carotene, vitamin A, vitamin K1, vitamin B6, biotin, fiber, potassium, and antioxidants. Carrots help in reducing the risk of getting cancer, they also help in weight loss, reducing blood cholesterol, and they improve eye health.

Carrots can be roasted with brown sugar and herbs, sautéed with garlic and parmesan, and they can also be coated with a honey glaze to create a sweet snack. This vegetable also pairs well with ranch dressing.

Cooked carrots can last up to 3 months in the freezer.

8. Cauliflower

Another healthy vegetable for dinner is cauliflower. It is also a good source of antioxidants which helps protect your cells from inflammation and free radicals. It also helps in weight loss, and it may also serve as a low-carb substitute for grains and legumes.

Cauliflower can be used as an alternative to rice and can be used to make pizza crust, mac and cheese, and hummus. Usually, cauliflower is roasted along with garlic and parmesan which gives it a sweet, savory, and buttery taste.

Cooked cauliflower may last 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator, but it can also be frozen in an airtight container to lengthen its shelf life for about 10 to 12 months.

9. Celery

Celery is a low-calorie vegetable that contains only about 10 calories per stalk. This crunchy vegetable can easily be added to most dishes, and it provides many health benefits.

Fresh celery should be sturdy, which means that it should snap and not bend. Its leaves should also be green and should be eaten within five to seven days to maximize its nutrients.

This healthy diet food can be braised, stir-fried with meat, added into salads, or turned into simple celery soup.

Leftover celery can be frozen, but it won’t be able to retain its crunch.

10. Corn

Corn is a starchy vegetable that is sometimes eaten as a grain. However, it is classified as a fruit by botanists. Also known as maize, corns are also used as an ingredient in processed foods, including corn flour, corn oil, cornmeal, tortillas, and corn syrup.

Most corns are yellow, but they may also come in purple, red, orange, blue, black, and white. Corn has high amounts of carbs and an adequate amount of fiber and protein.

Corn can be baked with cheese, cream cheese, butter, and herbs to make creamed corn. It can also be sautéed, grilled, or cooked in a skillet with honey and butter. Moreover, corn can also be added to salads, soup, tacos, and salsa.

Cooked corn may last 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator, but it can also be frozen in an airtight container to lengthen its shelf life for about 10 to 12 months.

11. Edamame

Edamame are whole, immature soybeans that are usually eaten in Asia. However, they are now becoming popular in Western countries as well. In the United States, edamame is usually sold frozen and can be heated by steaming, pan-frying, or microwaving.

This vegetable has high amounts of protein, and it also helps lower cholesterol. It also helps reduce the risk of getting breast and prostate cancer and helps avoid the development of menstrual symptoms. 

Edamame is commonly added in stews, soups, salads, and can also be eaten as a snack. One of the many ways to prepare edamame is by baking it with olive oil and parmesan cheese.

Leftover edamame will last for about 10 to 12 months in a freezer.

12. Eggplant

Eggplant is technically a fruit, but it is marketed as a vegetable. Also called aubergines, eggplants come in various colors, including deep purple, red, green, and black.

Aside from its unique texture and mild flavor, eggplant also contains nutrients and minerals that are essential to a human’s health. Moreover, eggplant helps reduce the risk of getting heart disease, boost control of blood sugar, may help in preventing cancer, and it could also aid in weight loss.

Eggplants can be oven-roasted, baked with garlic and parmesan, fried, or sautéed with spicy garlic sauce.

Cooked eggplant may last 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator, but it can also be frozen in an airtight container to extend its shelf life for about 10 to 12 months.

13. Fennel

Fennel is a culinary herb, as well as a medicinal plant that provides many health benefits. This plant is low in calories, and it is also a good source of vitamin C, manganese, potassium, calcium, and magnesium.

Fennel is high in fiber, which enables it to benefit heart health. It also has plant compounds that may help in fighting cancer. In addition, this plant also boosts milk secretion which is highly beneficial for breastfeeding women.

To add crunch and mild licorice flavor to salads, raw fennel can be added. It can also be sautéed, roasted with parmesan or garlic and herbs, or it can also be pickled.

If stored properly, fennel will last in the freezer for 5 to 6 months.

14. Green Beans

Also known as string beans, green beans are a staple across the United States. Despite being called green beans, this healthy vegetable can also be purple or yellow.

Green beans are perfect for people who want to lose weight since they only contain few of calories and sugar. They also do not contain any cholesterol, which is good for a person’s health.

Green beans can be served as a side dish for meat. It can also be sautéed with garlic, or baked with parmesan and olive oil. Cooked green beans can be stored in the freezer, although they will have a watery texture when thawed.

15. Kale

A member of the cabbage family, kale is one of the most nutrient-dense plant foods that exists because it is low in calories, but is packed with vitamins and minerals. This healthy plant is usually green in color, but it may also be purple depending on its type.

It is high in antioxidants, such as quercetin and kaempferol. Kale helps reduce cholesterol, promotes better eye health, and it also helps in weight loss.

Kale can be added to salads, it can be sautéed with lemon and garlic, or it can be added to your regular smoothie. Fresh, leftover kale can be frozen but should be used within four to six months.

16. Lettuce

Lettuce is a popular base ingredient for salads. There are four varieties of lettuce, namely head lettuce, romaine lettuce, leaf lettuce, and celtuce lettuce.

Head lettuce. This variety of lettuce is round in shape. Iceberg and butterhead lettuce fall into this variety.

Romaine lettuce. This variety is tall with dark green leaves, along with sturdy ribs at the center. Romaine lettuce is the variety that is used in a caesar salad.

Leaf lettuce. Easier to grow than other varieties, leaf lettuce does not form a head. Instead, it is connected to a stem. Leaf lettuce is dark green or purple in color.

Celtuce lettuce. Also goes by the name asparagus lettuce or stem lettuce, this variety comes with a large stem compared to other lettuce varieties. Celtuce lettuce is commonly found in China.

The nutrients present in lettuce depend on its variety. Iceberg lettuce has the lowest amount of nutrients, while Romain lettuce is the most nutritious one.

Lettuce is popularly used in salads, but it can also be stir-fried or added into various soups and dishes. It can be frozen but should be used within six months.

17. Mushroom

There are various types of mushrooms. Some are toxic, while others are not only edible, but delicious and healthy, too. Common types of mushrooms include white or button, shiitake, oyster, enoki, maitake, beech, crimini, and portobello.

Mushrooms do not contain fats and cholesterol and are low in calories and sodium. While the nutritional value of mushrooms depends on their type, there are nutrients that are present in most mushroom types. These include antioxidants, vitamin B, beta-glucan, and copper.

Mushrooms can be grilled, roasted, baked, sautéed, or cooked as a side dish. One of the easiest ways to enjoy mushrooms is by baking them with parmesan, thyme, and lemon.

Leftover mushrooms can be stored in the freezer for about a year.

18. Okra

Sometimes called “lady’s finger,” okra grows in tropical areas, such as in South Asia and Africa. Although originally classified as a fruit, okra is used as a vegetable in various dishes.

Okra is known for its seed pods and slimy texture which not everyone is fond of. Despite this, it provides many benefits for a person’s health. Okra is a good source of vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin K1, and vitamin B6. It also contains a good amount of protein and fiber and is low in carbs and calories.

Okra also helps lower heart disease risk due to mucilage – a thick, gel-like matter that is present in okra. During digestion, mucilage binds cholesterol which enables it to be released through stools instead of it being absorbed by the body.

Okra can be fried, sautéed with garlic, and stir-fried with onions, garlic, and tomatoes. To store in the freezer, allow the cooked okra to cool completely then store it in an airtight container.

19. Onion

Onion is a popular ingredient in every household. While onions differ in size and color, they are usually seen in the colors of white, red, and yellow. Depending on their variety, onions may have a mild taste, while others have a sharp, strong, spicy taste.

It also greatly benefits a person’s body by regulating blood sugar levels, boosting bone health, and preventing the risk of getting cancer.

However, onions also have their drawbacks. Some people have an allergy to onion, while others may experience mouth and eye irritation while working with this vegetable. It is worth noting that onions can be dangerous to some animals, including dogs, cats, monkeys, and horses.

Overall, onion is a versatile ingredient that can be sautéed, baked, fried, grilled, roasted, or eaten fresh.

Leftover onions can be frozen and will last up to three months.

20. Potatoes

A staple in almost all households, potatoes are root vegetables that can be used in a variety of dishes. They are cheap, readily available, and they also provide nutrients that are beneficial for our health.

However, note that peeling potato skin significantly decreases the nutritional value of the potato since potato skin contains a great number of nutrients.

There are many ways to cook potatoes. They can be roasted with garlic and butter, they can also be turned into french fries, and they can also be roasted. Potatoes can also be mashed and would make a great side dish of steaks.

If stored properly in the freezer, cooked potatoes can last for 10 to 12 months.

21. Spinach

A leafy green vegetable, spinach is full of nutrients and antioxidants. This healthy vegetable can help reduce the risk of getting cancer, lowers blood pressure levels, and it also promotes better eye health.

Spinach is usually sautéed with garlic, olive oil, and a squeeze of lemon. Creamed spinach is another popular recipe for this nutrient-rich vegetable.

Leftover spinach can be frozen to extend its shelf life for about 9 to 14 months.

22. Sweet Potato

Another root vegetable that is packed with nutrients is sweet potato. Not only are they nutritious, but sweet potatoes are also delicious and very filling. They are usually orange or purple in color, but sweet potatoes can also be white, yellow, red, or pink.

Sweet potatoes aid in better regulation of blood sugar, and they also reduce the risk of cancer and oxidative damage.

This root vegetable is also easy to prepare. They can be boiled, steamed, baked, or fried. Cooked sweet potato will last for 10 to 12 months if properly stored in an airtight bag or container.

23. Tomatoes

Tomatoes are classified as a fruit, but they are usually prepared like a vegetable. This healthy food is usually red in color, but it may also be green, yellow, orange, or purple.

Tomatoes are loaded with the antioxidant lycopene, vitamin C, vitamin K, folate, and potassium. They are also composed of 95% water which is good for hydration.

Tomatoes can be eaten fresh, turned into smoothies, added into salad and pasta dishes, and they can also be roasted. Leftover tomatoes can be frozen and used within 12 to 18 months.

24. Winter Squash

Winter squash is known for its bumpy skin and striking color that ranges from dark green to orange to yellow. Sometimes, they can also come in multicolor.

Winter squash is usually roasted, baked, or stuffed with meat and other healthy vegetables. Cooked winter squash may last 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator, but it can also be frozen in an airtight container to extend its shelf life for about 10 to 12 months.

25. Zucchini

Also called courgette, zucchini is a summer squash that is closely related to melons and cucumbers. Although it is botanically classified as a fruit, zucchini is usually treated as a vegetable.

Zucchini is rich in nutrients and antioxidants which promote better digestion, decreased blood sugar levels, and improved eye and heart health.

Zucchini is usually baked with parmesan. They can also be a healthier substitute for french fries. Moreover, this healthy food can also be roasted, sautéed, or added into sandwiches.

Raw zucchini will last for 8 to 12 months in the freezer, while blanched ones will last longer at 9 to 14 months.

Final Words

The good thing is there are infinite ways to cook your vegetables aside from those that are included on this list.

You can try other ways to cook and see which one works best for you and your family.

Regardless, including vegetables as part of your regular diet is an excellent way to begin and maintain a healthier life.

Reference/s:

• https://damndelicious.net/2015/04/22/15-quick-and-easy-vegetable-side-dishes/
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• https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/zucchini-benefits

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